# Adria Twin Motorized Waste Tank Valve Fit



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Modification number 6 is fitting a motorized waste tank valve. Thanks to 'cavs' for the info and photo in one of his posts.

We did a six week trip through Europe to Crete in May/June and all five of the previous modifications worked really well. The most useful was the LPG gas tank and the solar panel. The BBQ got a fair bit of use too!

Got fed up with the rubbish waste tank valve cable falling off, hence this valve fit.

Once again this is my method, there may be a better way.

*PARTS*
From CAK Tanks : 1 1/4 BSP Valve, P/N EDV125. 1 1/4 BSP Male to 40mm Female Adapter P/N RW40F1QM. Fuse Holder P/N R420-S with a 5A fuse.

Switch ON-OFF-ON momentary 6 pole 10 Amp(DPDT double pole double throw) CAK Tanks sell one but i couldn't find any info on it so i got one from Ebay.

1 1/4 Solvent Weld Elbow (any plumbers merchant) with adhesive.

I used 2 core 0.75mm square cable to the valve because I had some already.

Here's the valve with the adapter and elbow.









I fitted my switch just to the right of the steering wheel into the Mode/Lights adjust panel. Once the plastic panels around the fuse panel are removed you can reach behind and pop it out.









The cigar lighter circuit seemed best to tee into because if it all went pete tong, you would only lose the cigar lighter. My Adria Twin is 2008 and the fuse for this is F44.









I cut into the wire FROM this fuse and connected my fuse holder which I stuck to the top of the fuse block with double sided tape. The wire is a fat yellow one from connector 'B' which is behind the fuse box, top right corner.









This is the switch with six terminals. The valve has two wires and opens and closes by reversing the supply polarity. The centre pair of terminals on the switch connect to the upper and lower pair depending on which way the rocker switch is pushed. The fused 12v +ve from the new fuse holder and earth from the van wiring should be connected to the centre pair of terminals (input). The output to the valve should be connected to the upper (or lower) pair with wire links (shown here) connected to the other pair but crossing over as in the photo. This reverses the polarity depending on the selected switch position. It doesn't matter which way round the positives and negatives are on each pair of terminals. Note that if you want to fit your switch in the same position it must not be wider than 22mm. This switch measured 22mm x 30mm.









The valve wiring was routed from the switch, down an existing loom (the blue and brown wires)









To a blind rubber grommet under the drivers side footwell plastic trim. Cut a hole in the grommet and push the wires through the van floor.









The wires were then routed to the valve under the van using the easiest rout.

I removed the old mechanical valve and found that the tank outlet was only about 1/2'.









So I opened it up to full bore with a cone cutter.









The valve fitted with plumbers non setting thread sealant. Note that you will need to remove the motor from the valve body to screw it onto the tank. Just a couple of allen screws. The valve will need some support due to it's weight. I used a galvanised steel strap bent, drilled and attached to the underside of the van then drilled through into the valve bracket and fitted a 6mm nut and bolt.

















The finished switch in it's panel. Down = valve open, up = valve closed.









Works well and will be getting a proper function test next week when we will be off to Bruges and Aachen in Germany for the christmas markets. The only disappointing bit is the valve. It has no indication or limit switches so when it reaches the end of it's travel (open or shut) a peg hits a stop and the motor stalls. No indication switches means you don't know if it's open or closed. Having said that, I'm sure I will get used to it and it's built to a cost.


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

Nice job
try these next time you want to share a fuse
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180735824927?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Cheers Andy. That's a nice neat and easy solution.


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## Pat-H (Oct 30, 2009)

You could always add a couple of micro switches and a few diodes to cut the power when the switch reaches limit.

How much was the valve?


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

The valve was about £115.
I think micro switches would work but they would need to be environmentally sealed due to the harsh environment. I think they would be fairly difficult to attach also. After using the valve a couple of times I could hear it (with the engine off) so it wasn't too much of a problem anyway.

What would the diodes be for?


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## Pat-H (Oct 30, 2009)

Assuming the motor direction is controlled by reversing the supply to it you use the diodes across the switches so the current is stopped in one diirection but allowed to flow the other way.

Suspected the valve would be that sort of cost. I'm tempted to look at a smaller bore one for a fith that or less. The drain would be slower and I'd likely add it in addition to the current manul valve.


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## geordie01 (Apr 20, 2006)

Is there any way of manually opening the valve when it gets stuck shut and you have a full waste tank?


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Yes. The motor can be removed and the valve can be opened manually.


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## eurajohn (May 9, 2005)

Imagine the scenario? cold, raining not the cleanest nicest area for dump of waste and the valve fails! grovel under van dis-connect motor and manually operate the valve, foul smelling grey water all down your arm, get up wet, smelly, dirty and very annoyed.
Think I'll continue with my superbly located manual one


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Clearly, you don't have an Adrian Twin John


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

A little update on this thread. Last year in Spain, the valve failed. When attempting to open or close I could hear it trying to move but it would stick. I later found that it was hot weather causing the problem because coming back through the Pyrenees, the valve started to work. It wasn't a huge problem because it was possible to assist the valve manually whilst my wife operated it electrically. Not ideal though.

Anyway, although I found CAK tanks very helpful when purchasing the valve, this was not the case when attempting to get a replacement under warranty. It took me about 2 months and lots of emails to get a replacement. Luckily I was not in a rush for it because the valve worked in the UK due to the colder weather. Not good after sales though.


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

So in summary CAK service


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