# Teething troubles with new Berkshire



## Medallionman (Nov 26, 2005)

We went away for our first trip in the new Berkshire, bought two weeks ago from Marquis, East Sussex.

Very pleased with the vehicle generally, appreciated the extra space and storage after our Medallion. However we did have the odd problem!
The Berkshire comes with the new (to me) touch screen and power management system. 

We arrived on the site and selected the the power rating of the site 10A(2000W) and set the 'warm air' thermostat. The water heater (electric) was switched on. It was late afternoon and getting chilly so expected the warmth to be felt pretty quickly. After about 1/2 hour the heater was still blowing cold air (which made it feel even colder). After 3/4 hour we had had enough and I began to suspect the electric heater had failed. Then I remembered the salesman telling us on hand-over that the power management system 'decided' how to allocate the available power so I decided to switch the water heating over to gas(and electric) to see if that made any difference. After about 5 minutes we began to notice warm air coming from the vents and the 'fire'. Switched the gas off and everything was fine : nice and warm at last!

UNTIL...... after our evening meal and washing uo we sat down to watch a bit of TV. As we got comfortable we both noticed that the temperature was dropping. I adjusted the thermostat but it made no difference. 'Cold' air was coming from the vents. It got colder and colder for another 1/2 hour or so. Then I remembered that we had used a bowl of hot water to wash-up in. So on went the gas water heateragain, and sure enough after 5 minutes the hot air started to circulate again.

So why on 10A can we not use the water heater and the space heater? We could in our last MH. Why does the water heater have 'priority' over space heating? why does it take so long for the water heater (3/4 hour at least) to heat up the water?

I emailled Marquis and they replied that we should be able to have both on at the same time. (not very helpful!)

Does anybody have experience of this system? Any advice would be most welcome.

We do not see the point of having such a system that that requires you to use gas when you are on 10A hook-up. 

The second problem occured on the second site (which stated 10A). The power management was set to 2000W but it tripped the post circuit breaker 3 times. By my calculation we should have been within the maximum power by 300W. We had to set the power to 1000W to stop it tripping out.

Again, any advice welcomed!

Another thing! The 'internal temperature' shown on the control panel seemed to be very inaccurate. 13 degrees C showing when the heating had been working OK for a couple of hours and it was decidedly warm inside the van.

Cheers, 

Brian


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## dipsticks (Aug 2, 2007)

It's quite amazing that you don't seem to have been given a good instruction manual to refer to on the use of such a complex system, having spent so much money.

Why not just ring up and speak to Auto Sleepers at the service centre, they are usually most helpful (if they know themselves, the answer) Tel 01386 853511.

Best wishes


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## Medallionman (Nov 26, 2005)

dipsticks said:


> Why not just ring up and speak to Auto Sleepers at the service centre, they are usually most helpful (if they know themselves, the answer) Tel 01386 853511.


Thanks Dipsticks, I'll try them on Monday,
Brian


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## teamsaga (Feb 26, 2006)

Hi Brian
I have a sigma which probably has the same controls as your berkshire, I think the salesman misinformed you and what you are calling the power management switch is actually your ultraheat wattage selector. 2000 watts selected for your heater will consume 8.7amps of your 10 amp hookup , your battery charger will probably take the rest which is why you kept tripping the breaker. I usually find 1000watts of heating enough . On a 16amp hookup you should be able to use 2000watts of heating and run your water heater at the same time. If you want faster heating gas is instant. I find the temp. readout is more accurate if I am using the ultraheat fan.


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## Medallionman (Nov 26, 2005)

teamsaga said:


> Hi Brian
> I have a sigma which probably has the same controls as your berkshire, I think the salesman misinformed you and what you are calling the power management switch is actually your ultraheat wattage selector. 2000 watts selected for your heater will consume 8.7amps of your 10 amp hookup , your battery charger will probably take the rest which is why you kept tripping the breaker. I usually find 1000watts of heating enough . On a 16amp hookup you should be able to use 2000watts of heating and run your water heater at the same time. If you want faster heating gas is instant. I find the temp. readout is more accurate if I am using the ultraheat fan.


Thanks Teamsaga,
I obviously didn't understand (or was misinformed). I thought the outer 'ring' of the Ultraheat control, above the door, controlled the total power that the van drew, not just the heater.
Why then on the first site, (a C&CC site, supposed to be 10A but some are 16A) which it did not trip did the heater not come on for 3/4 of an hour? Any ideas?
BTW I was using the Ultraheat fan when I was getting the inaccurate temperature readings. 
Cheers, 
Brian


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Brian

The thermostatic control on Ultraheat(ers) seem to be very sluggish in responding to changes of temperature. (That's the inner knob with numbers up to 9).

We often find that No. 8 is necessary to get the thing working, even when it feels quite chilly in the van. I think they are all pretty much the same, as our previous M/H and a caravan before that both had the same failings.

The position of your control might also give a clue. Many van designers (in their infinite wisdom 8O :roll: ) put them above and adjacent to the kitchen area, so anything cooking creates hot air, which of course rises and switches off the heating.

I would have expected the thermostat sensor to be low down near the floor, but apparently it is contained within the control switch, and is just the standard bi-metal strip with a screw tensioner for adjustment.

_(Ready to be contradicted here, as this is only what I was told by another M/Her, and have never bothered to verify.)_

As for the thermometer, ours is next to useless so I don't even bother to look at it. The external one has never even been connected (I had it checked at Willersey) and it would have been quite a fiddle for them to fix it. I told them not to bother as I have this sixth sense that kicks in and tells me if it's cold outside the moment I open the van door. :lol: :lol:

Hope this helps


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## Medallionman (Nov 26, 2005)

Thanks Zebedee,
Hopefully I will be taking it back this week to have the roof bars and rear ladder fitted so I will ask for further clarification then. I still don't understand why it should take 45 minutes from switching on to getting any hot air circulating. Also, it does seem stupid having the thermostat so high up.
Cheers, 
Brian


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## Medallionman (Nov 26, 2005)

Update.
After sending Marquis the temperature readings that I recorded over 8 hours on a very 'cool' evening (never got above 7C using van electric heater on 13 A supply) I have been told that "it's not right."
It goes in to Preston branch on Monday to have the roof bars and the ladder fitted. They will have a look at the heating, and some other problems then.
Brian


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## Waggy (Jan 15, 2006)

I noticed this with my new Nuevo. The internal temperature reading was very low. I wondered if the sensor was behind the control panel and it was taking the temperature inside the locker (which is like a fridge)

I tried leaving the locker door open for a couple of hours to enable the inside of the locker to equalise with the temp. inside the van. This gave much more realistic readings of 20/21 cent.

I suspect the same might apply to the thermostat sensor.

Yes, and there is some delay before the electric heating kicks in.

A great van though


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