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## Triple7 (Oct 15, 2007)

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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

If you are able and have the spare time I would suggest taking over to one of the German dealers.they at least do give a decent service as far as I can tell from reports on here.As for Brownhills, well I suggest you do a search on here regarding dealers first before you take it there.
I expect one of the Hymer owners will give you more advise soon.

cabby


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## motoroamin (May 22, 2006)

Hi Triple 7 and sorry to hear you've got this problem.

Looking at the photos it would suggest that the rail has been disturbed and not refitted to a very good standard - but that does not necesarily mean that its leaking; is there any evidence of mauve staining, softness, pimpling or water on the inside? 

The condensation within your dinette window is unlikely to be related to the roof joint. Try removing the plastic bungs from the top of the window to let it ventilate inside - condensation can occur when strong sunlight hits a window after a prolonged cold spell.

If there was a known water leak from solar panel fittings, then naturally you would want to know what level of repair was carried out - can the previous owner help you, or did they sell because they lost confidence in the vehicle?

Water ingress checks during habitation servicing are carried out from the inside.

If in your position I would get firstly another water ingress check done and a second opinion - there are many on here who will be able to recommend tried and trusted professionals.

On the face of it, it does not look like a manufacturing defect and if that is the case you are unlikely to get a sympathetic ear to a warranty claim.


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

Hi, its not that easy to spot the damage on the photo's

Is it not possible to carefully mastic between the rail and body?

The condensation problem might possibly be cured by some more insulation in that area but not being an expert on your MH it is just a suggestion.

Regards


Peter


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## linal (Mar 14, 2006)

Hi triple7 I am just back from Brownhills Swindon for first hab. & damp check and if you have had damp check done at same time it states on the paperwork that they check all outside seals ie chimneys etc. therefore access to the roof would be a must.
On a different note I found them all very helpful, friendly & efficient so that is HymerUK & Brownhills Swindon that I have nothing but praise for.
I can only hope that your repair would be to replace the joint seal. If not what about your insurance if it's really expensive 

Best of luck.

Alex.


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## rowley (May 14, 2005)

It is difficult to assess the damage from the photo. I agree with Peter that it does look as though a mastic repair would suffice for the time being.


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## 101405 (Oct 15, 2006)

*roof repair*

Hi , Is there any overspray of paint along the roof and side wall strip which would Indicate a repair. that does not look like Hymer factory finish to me . you could ask you your Insurance co to check out if the vehicle has had repairs as the data base would have a record of it. hope it go's well. local van body builder would be repair it .


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## androidGB (May 26, 2005)

Triple777, sorry to hear about your problems.

I would very strongly recommend you contact Peter Hambilton who is also in Preston. In fact I would go there before going to HymerUK.

Peter knows all there is to know about Hymers and he won't make a drama out of a crisis, believe me I know, long story!

The standard of his work is excellent, do a search on here, a you will find many recommendations.

He's a pilot as well!

Andrew


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## grumpyman (Sep 24, 2006)

Hear is what is reccomended for the Habitation check and the roof gets mentioned enough to me to suggest they would if having done the service correctly checked.
Recommended Annual Habitation Service Check 
INTRODUCTION

There is much confusion over the annual habitation service or check for motorhomes, with widely varying prices and standards of work. However a 'standard checklist' is used by many dealers when carrying out this work, but it seems that many owners are not aware of this, or of what checks should be included. We suggest that owners should ask for the 'SMMT Annual Habitation Service Check' to be carried out. Competent owners may wish to use the published checklist when carrying out their own maintenance.

The following guidelines for the checking and servicing of a motorhome's habitation area are taken from the guidance booklet published by the Motorhome Section of the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) and the Motorhome Division of The National Caravan Council (NCC). They are © SMMT & NCC and reproduced here with their kind permission. We would like to thank them for providing this information and also thank The Motorhome Information Service for their assistance.

The checks do not cover any part of the base vehicle, although there may be minor overlapping (such as tyre pressures, cab seats, internal lights, battery and windows) in a van conversion. The base vehicle must be serviced in accordance with the chassis manufacturer's instructions.

Reference should also be made to:

1. Any owner's manual or equivalent supplied with the vehicle by the motorhome manufacturer.

2 Appliance manufacturers' leaflets.

3. Driver s handbook or equivalent supplied by the chassis manufacturer.

A vehicle is accepted for service at the dealer's discretion. 
Any defects, repairs, adjustments, cleaning or lubrication required will be noted on the check list. 
The customer's approval will be obtained before any work is done.

Not all of the equipment mentioned in this manual is fitted as standard to every motorhome

Any work carried out following the check, and the sufficiency of the work in the check itself, is subject to the contract between the customer and the dealer. The National Caravan Council (NCC) & SMMT and their member companies are not part of this contract, and accept no liability in contract, tort or otherwise, other than death or personal injury due to negligence on their part.

SECTION 1 
BODY MOUNTING

1.1 BODY TO CHASSIS 
Examine all fixings retaining the body to the chassis - this may be direct or through a sub-frame. 
Where practical, all fittings should be checked to ensure they are all present and correctly secured.

1.2 BODY TO CAB 
Examine joint between body and cab for signs of movement and soundness of sealing media.

1 .3 BODY RETENTION (Dismountables) 
Check serviceability and tightness of body retaining gear. 
Check serviceability of body support struts and mountings. 
(Note - whether it will be necessary to demount the body to check the 
body supports must be agreed between dealer and customer).

SECTION 2 
WINDOWS

2.1 WINDOWS 
Check window glazing rubber or sealing for cracks and general condition. 
Check for satisfactory opening and closing. 
Check fixing of top hinge rail on top hung windows. 
Check for good weather seal when window is closed and latched. 
Check catches and stays for satisfactory operation.

SECTION 3 
DOORS

3.1 EXTERNAL DOORS 
Not including base vehicle doors.

3.1.1 SECURITY 
Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, doors are held securely shut. 
Check that keys or internal latches lock the doors correctly. 
Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the open position is satisfactory.

3.1.2 SEALING 
Check all door seals for cracking and general condition. Check correct closing to give a weather-tight seal.

3.1.3 CHILDPROOF LOCK 
Where a door is fitted with a childproof lock, check that an appropriate warning notice is fixed adjacent to the door. 
Appropriate warning notices are available from motorhome manufacturers.

3.2 INTERNAL DOORS

3.2.1 SECURITY 
Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, the door is held securely shut.

3.2.2 SAFETY 
Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the closed position can be operated from both sides to open the door in an emergency.

SECTION 4 
ATTACHMENTS TO CHASSIS OR UNDERBODY

4.1 CORNER STEADIES 
Check that attachments to chassis are secure. Ensure steadies work freely and satisfactorily. 
Lubricate screw to ensure correct operation.

4.2 FOLDING/RETRACTABLE STEPS 
Check that step pivots are satisfactory and not worn. Check that, when closed, the retaining mechanism holds the step securely. If fitted, check warning device is working.

4.3 UNDERFLOOR WATER TANK MOUNTINGS 
Check mounting frames are secure to body. Any fastenings that require releasing to remove the tank should be free of rust and operate freely. (Removal, flushing, cleaning and replacing of tanks will be carried out at the prior request of the customer or will be done subsequently with other work).

4.4 SPARE WHEEL 
Remove spare wheel. Check for damage. Check tyre pressure. 
Check mounting frame for security to body and for secure retention of 
spare wheel.

4.5 WHEELBOXES 
Check for damage, corrosion, water seepage, signs of tyre rubbing.

SECTION 5 
ATTACHMENT TO BODY EXTERIOR

5 1 *ROOF LIGHTS *
Check security, general condition, and that sealing has not deteriorated.

5.2 *ROOF *RACKS AND LADDERS 
Check security to body and general condition. 
Check *roof* for damage adjacent to rack.

5.3 MOULDINGS, TRIMS 
Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated (see section 6).

5.4 FLUE TERMINALS, AIR VENTS 
Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated. 
Check that these are not blocked.

SECTION 6 
INTERNAL

6.1 BODY SEEPAGE CHECK 
Examine for moisture/water staining of areas under windows, at side of *roof *and at corners which could indicate water seepage problems. 
A moisture meter should be used where appropriate.

6.2 FURNITURE 
Check furniture is securely fixed. 
Check door hinges, catches and stays for satisfactory operation.

6.3 DINETTE SEAT/BEDS 
Check seat bases for security of fixings and for damage. 
Make up beds according to manufacturer's instructions and check for 
rigidity and safety.

6.4 UPPER BUNKS 
Check there is a secure means of access to upper bunks and that, where applicable, protection against falling out and entrapment is provided.

6.5 CURTAINS/BLINDS/NETS 
Check track is secure and curtains draw freely without snagging. 
Check blinds and/or nets for correct operation. 
Check flyscreens in roof lights and air vents.

6.6 CAB SEATS 
Where cab seats form part of the living area and/or bed layout they should be checked for security of attachment, smooth and easy operation of seat slides, swivels and seat back operation.

6.7 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 
Check condition and expiry date. If an extinguisher is not fitted, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment.

6.8 FIRE BLANKET 
Check position (should be near cooker). 
If one is not present, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment


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## citroennut (May 16, 2005)

hi 777,
it looks as though the damage starts from the base of the overcab as the seal is not showing a smooth line. the roof seems to be slightly higher just above the gapped area. how does this side compare to the other for straight line of seam and level of roof?
simon


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## davesport (Nov 12, 2006)

I'm at a loss to think of what could possibly have caused this type of damage. I can't imagine what you're going through. A total nightmare probably does'nt sum it up.

I have to agree with Citroennut that in addition to the gap in the seal there appears to be a discontinuity in the white joining strip as you look forwards along it. 

I've got no expertise in motorhomes. But to me if some external force had been imparted to any of the body panels to cause this much disruption in the seal I would have thought there would have been "witness marks" indicating something had happened. IE denting or scratching. 

Is it possible that the seal has been tampered with in isolation ? IE it's only the seal that's been disrupted & the panels are straight. Are the panel gaps the same all the way along ? How do the panel gaps compare with the other side ? Have you had a look at the joining strip on the inside ? Is it damaged. One positive thing is that the PU foam that's an integral part of the panel construction is'nt water permeable. So the water cant get inside the panels.

Personally I'd be seeking the factory's opinion. If you send them a portfolio of photographs I'm sure that they would make some usefull input.

I dearly hope you get this sorted out to your satisfaction sooner rather than later.

You have my best wishes. Dave.


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## pauwilson (May 24, 2005)

Just a few guesses, the water ingress from solar panel that was repaired - is that near the affected area (can see some conduit in the pic), if so and if the roof had not fully dried out yet could frost have lifted the seal up? Is that a rubber piping seal or very thick mastic sealant?

Is what appears as a black line at the split the top of the side panel? If so could it be a manufacturing fault. It does not like a lot of material for the seal to adhere to.

When the seal was put on is their to much sealant at the top/roof side making it sit higher than it should, which has not left enough material for the side section to bond to? 

Could the person doing the solar panel have rested his ladders against this part, pushing it up when pressure was applied with them going up to the roof.

I would imagine that worse case scenario removing the seal and rebedding it with sufficient overlap would cure it, but being body coloured then some respraying might be needed should the paint crack.


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

pauwilson said:


> if the roof had not fully dried out yet could frost have lifted the seal up?


That sounds a very plausible theory to me.


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## Triple7 (Oct 15, 2007)

[No message]


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## takeaflight (May 9, 2005)

Hi triple 777

Sorry about your van. If you have no luck with the dealer, I would deal direct with Hymer http://www.hymer.com/eu/100179_contact.html

Firstly temporary seal with silkoflex, then book the van in with Hymer and treat the trip as part of an holiday.

They carry out service's and repairs at their HQ.

Roy


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## Triple7 (Oct 15, 2007)

[No message]


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

takeaflight said:


> Firstly temporary seal with silkoflex,


Excellent idea to make a temporary seal - but not with Sikaflex.

Sikaflex cannot be removed except mechanically and you'll leave nasty marks where you cut/scrape it off. Just use a silicon sealant as a temporary measure, that can be easily removed using a dedicated solvent.


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## 4colin (Nov 10, 2005)

I sympathise with your dilemma. I had a similar problem with a A Class Hymer last year just weeks before the warranty ran out. I found a crack on the roof.
Fortunately the girls in Hymeruk were extremely helpful and after a long wait for Hymer to agree to the work, the repair was carried out under warranty, two months after the warranty had ended.
I cant speak for the rest of the Brownhills Group but I have been pleased with the jobs Hymeruk have done under warranty.
The other point that one seems to have raised is will a repair at a non franchised dealer affect your six year water ingress warranty. I am sure someone in the forum will have the answer. Besyt of luck whatever course of action you take.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Triple7 

This might sound like a daft suggestion, but worth a try and from the sound of it you are a bit desperate. 

Take it along to a local caravan dealer who is large enough to have a repair shop on site, and get their opinion. It looks to me as if the construction is pretty similar to that used in many caravans, and if so the repair shop will be well used to fixing problems like this. (If I am misinterpreting the photos please forgive me for perhaps getting your hopes up.) 

I would guess at a charge of a couple of hundred pounds at the most - though this is only a guess. I took off and resealed a complete side rail when I had a caravan and it's not rocket science. 

If I am interpreting the photos correctly it's nothing to worry about too much. If there was already any amount of damp inside the van you would almost certainly smell it, and the van is not very old anyway so there has not been time for much decay to set in - if any.

At worst, Gaspode's comments about Sikaflex should give you heart. That stuff is unbelieveable, and I would not be at all bothered about filling a one inch gap with it if there was no alternative, and it has a structural strength you wouldn't believe so the job would definitely be permanent. If you receive a "silly money" quote for the job I would seriously consider going to the caravan repair place I mentioned above and ask them to repair it with Sikaflex. It would cost you fifty quid and would look a little bit unsightly with a wider length of filler in that area, but it wouldn't leak!!!

Worth checking out maybe?

Regards


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## gotago (Sep 14, 2006)

I don't know if anyone else has posted this theory but I would bet the damage has been caused by one person standing on a ladder that is leaning against the side of the van and another person working within the van. The resulting movement of the van as the person moves in and out or around in the van will be magnified through the vans size and with the weight of a person standing on a ladder against this, the seal would stand little chance and be badly damaged.

There is a similar problem when attatching a safari room with rigid side poles locked at the junction with the van side awning. If you don't have axle stands keeping the van still, all the weight of the van moving is transmitted to the awning fixings and... disaster.


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