# Serviciing a 2.8jtd?



## coppo

Is this easy?

I have done a lot of my own cars in the past, oil and filter change.

Is the filter easy to locate?

What oil is best to use, I read somewhere that to only use 10/40 semi synthetic and not 5/40. The reason was stated as you get oil leaks from the thinner oil and then require the crankshaft seal replacing.

Paul.


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## TheNomad

Assuming you mean the up to 2006 engine then it's a piece of cake. Filter is a screw on jobbie and is located at the bottom of the engine in front of the sump. Get at it from underneath. Do not go less viscous than 10w40 mineral or semi synthetic. Sump plug unscrews using large Allen key....can't remember exact size offhand. It's about the easiest oil and filter change you could do. Jus remember that the upper mark on the dipstick is the maximum level. ....aim to fill to a little below that mark.


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## shingi

If it's a 244 engine, it's a canister type filter and as said it's a very easy job and very worthwhile doing. There are two filters available, a 3/4-16UNF thread for VIN Nos. up to 4006626 and a M.22 X 1.5 thread for 4006626 onwards.

For the drain plug you need a 12mm. HEX (Allen key).

Refill after a good draining period with 5.7Litres of a good quality oil and I personally use 10W-40 as the 5W is generally accepted as too thin for this engine under normal UK useage, and is said to encourage leaks. 

Plenty of time remaining for a:coffee2:


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## listerdiesel

Check the filter for tightness after you have covered a few miles, when we had our Movano with the 2.8 turbo engine it had a bad habit of coming loose.

Otherwise it's a fairly easy lump to work on.

Peter


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## boringfrog

Errr,servicing, what about the air filter, fuel filter, all other fluid levels, checking for wear on pads and discs etc?


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## TheNomad

boringfrog said:


> Errr,servicing, what about the air filter, fuel filter, all other fluid levels, checking for wear on pads and discs etc?


Air filter - have a quick look once every 50,000 miles or so. Take out filter element, bang it against kerb to remove buildup of dead flies, rodents, and put it back.

Fuel filter - Nope. Don't touch it. Not ever. Never never never.......If you do it will leak, time after time after time.

Fluid levels - 
Does steering work? Then there's enough power steering fluid.
Do brakes work? There's sufficient brake fluid. Do they squeal horrendously? Nope? Then there's at least a tiny bit of front brake pad friction material left. Don't worry about ever checking whether there's anything left on the rear shoes - the rear brakes on Ducatos are so utterly crap that you'd not notice whether they were working or not.
Does gearbox work? Then there's probably still at least a teaspoonful of 15 year old gearbox oil in there somewhere.
Does it go along? Then tyres are OK.

There. Complete Main Dealer standard of service Sir, that'll be 350 quid plus VAT thank you.


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## namtul

Thanks everyone.


Nomad that's great advice thanks very much.


10w/40 it is then, sounds easy enough. 12mm allen key, stick a bowl under and undo, then when its drained out unscrew oil filter(that should unscrew easy when you have let the oil out) Bingo. Does the oil filler bung need a washer?


Cheers 


Paul.


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## coppo

By the way it was me who posted under namtul as I had to re-register after the shutdown, many thanks to all, particularly nomad


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## coppo

Thanks everyone, particularly nomad, it was me who posted under namtul as I had to re-register under a different name after the start up.


Paul.


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## BillCreer

The bung does have a washer Paul. You can buy a new one or anneal the old one to make it soft again. Heat it up till it's cherry red then drop it into water. Job done.


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## coppo

Thanks Bill.


I.ll probably get a new one they should only be 50p or so.


Paul.


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## raynipper

TheNomad said:


> Air filter - have a quick look once every 50,000 miles or so. Take out filter element, bang it against kerb to remove buildup of dead flies, rodents, and put it back.
> 
> Fuel filter - Nope. Don't touch it. Not ever. Never never never.......If you do it will leak, time after time after time.
> 
> Fluid levels -
> Does steering work? Then there's enough power steering fluid.
> Do brakes work? There's sufficient brake fluid. Do they squeal horrendously? Nope? Then there's at least a tiny bit of front brake pad friction material left. Don't worry about ever checking whether there's anything left on the rear shoes - the rear brakes on Ducatos are so utterly crap that you'd not notice whether they were working or not.
> Does gearbox work? Then there's probably still at least a teaspoonful of 15 year old gearbox oil in there somewhere.
> Does it go along? Then tyres are OK.
> 
> There. Complete Main Dealer standard of service Sir, that'll be 350 quid plus VAT thank you.


Like, Like, Like.
If only................................

Ray.


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## TheNomad

No less viscous than 10w40 enine oil. Mineral is fine or you can use semi synthetic. Fully synthetic is really a waste of money on these older low annual mileage engines. Change filter every second oil change. Buy 10 sump washers off ebay for a quid or two and use new sump washer every second oil change too. When replacing filter smear thin layer of new oil on rubber sealing faces, then screw on only hand tight. Use funnel plus short length of rubber tube or hose to refill engine oil as filler is hard to get at with 5 litre oil container. Always clean round filter sump plug and filler cap before undoing them, to ensure no Contamination to sealing faces.


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## coppo

Thanks, I didn't realise you could use mineral oil, I thought that was only for 1990's and earlier engines, mines a 2005 2.8jtd.


Paul.


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## shingi

Oh, and don't forget to roll your sleeve up when you unscrew the oil filter, as I guarantee the remaining oil in it will most definitely try to run up your arm on the final turn! >


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## coppo

shingi said:


> Oh, and don't forget to roll your sleeve up when you unscrew the oil filter, as I guarantee the remaining oil in it will most definitely try to run up your arm on the final turn! >


Long gloves required then.

Paul.


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## shingi

I can't work with gloves on (Marigold !), like going to bed wearing socks. MICK


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## TheNomad

coppo said:


> Thanks, I didn't realise you could use mineral oil, I thought that was only for 1990's and earlier engines, mines a 2005 2.8jtd.
> 
> Paul.


Yours is the same engine as that right from the start of the 2.8 JTD era. 
Mineral oil is just fine for it, but I'd go with a big name brand.
I use 15w40 or even 20w50, but that's because down here ion Spain the ambient temperature is substantially warmer. In the colder UK, then 15w40 or 10w40 will be fine.

The big difference between mineral, semi synthetic, and fully synthetic oils of any particular technical (API etc) specification, is how long, in use, it stays withing that designed spec range.
Fully synthetic is wonderful stuff, it stays within original spec for much longer than semi synthetic, which in turn stays within spec range longer than mineral oil. But the price differential is really enormous; and is totally unnecessary if you're not blasting down the autobahn 7 days a week for 10 hours a day at Mach 2..in a recently designed much tighter tolerance high revving engine.
For an agricultural chugging white van engine like the 2.8JTD that you'll do maybe 5,000 miles a year in, all gently, you don't need to waste money on a type of oild that your engine simply wasn't designed to use. Changing once a year at that sort of mileage is fine.


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## boringfrog

Before you remove the sump plug make sure you can remove the oil filter, mine was stuck on and still would not come off after buying a strap wrench.


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## BrianJP

Lots of opinions there but just muddy the waters my 2.3JTD ( same as 2.8 effectively)
has used 5-40w fully synthetic as now industry recommended for over 40k miles now.
It does not use any significant oil between changes and has no leaks anywhere ??????


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## TheNomad

Brian - you mean not yet. 40,000 miles is hardly even run-in. 
As a matter of interest, what's your annual mileage in it; and why are you using 5 grade in an engine of that vintage, and why are you putting fully synthetic oil in it?


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## eurajohn

This subject was recently discussed.
Within the previous thread I strongly dis-agreed with Nomad, as do Fiat and plenty within the motor trade.
I did promise not to continue to contribute on the other thread and didn't, however there was a reply which queried the thinking behind the statement regarding thinner spec oil causing seal leak, basically and very simply the lower number of the spec refers to the thickness of the oil at low temperature (whatever that may be) and the higher number is for the thickness of oil at its operating temperature. The majority of its working life when the oil is circulating around the seals which are likely to leak the oil is at its higher viscosity rating, which in virtually every case is the same no matter what the lower one is, I'd not thought of that logic but it does make sense.


A quality oil is just that not a cheap one.


On the subject of sump plug washers, they are often aluminium, don't try to anneal by heating to cherry red, only do if a copper one.


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## BillCreer

eurajohn said:


> This subject was recently discussed.
> Within the previous thread I strongly dis-agreed with Nomad, as do Fiat and plenty within the motor trade.
> I did promise not to continue to contribute on the other thread and didn't, however there was a reply which queried the thinking behind the statement regarding thinner spec oil causing seal leak, basically and very simply the lower number of the spec refers to the thickness of the oil at low temperature (whatever that may be) and the higher number is for the thickness of oil at its operating temperature. The majority of its working life when the oil is circulating around the seals which are likely to leak the oil is at its higher viscosity rating, which in virtually every case is the same no matter what the lower one is, I'd not thought of that logic but it does make sense.
> 
> A quality oil is just that not a cheap one.
> 
> On the subject of sump plug washers, they are often aluminium, don't try to anneal by heating to cherry red, only do if a copper one.


Aluminium washers are as rare as hens teeth. If not more so.

On the subject of quality, true quality is when oil is fit for purpose regardless of cost.


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## BrianJP

TheNomad said:


> Brian - you mean not yet. 40,000 miles is hardly even run-in.
> As a matter of interest, what's your annual mileage in it; and why are you using 5 grade in an engine of that vintage, and why are you putting fully synthetic oil in it?


I do about 10-12K a year.
I don't put that oil in ,my garage does and that's what is recommended for JTD engines now apparently.The oil recommendations for many engines has been upgraded since their manufacture.That is the case for both my cars as well.


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## hogan

Re the oil going up tour arm when removing filter. Unscrew until oil starts dribbling out then leave it for o few mins.while waiting tie a rag around your wrist use this hand to remove filter then remove rag and note no oil up the arm.


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