# Wierd water pump problem



## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Can anybody please help with this?

We recently had some work done on our 2002 CI Riviera. The water pump was found to be faulty and replaced. When we tested the new one all seemed well until the tap was turned off and all the electrics went off - pump, lights everything. We have to constantly turn everything back on at the control panel above the door after using the tap. Not very good at night as you can imagine. Use the tap and you're plunged into instant darkness until somebody reaches up and turns the electrics back on.
I asked the dealer who fitted it what could be done and he said "Pass! CI electrics are a pain. I'll put the old not working pump back in if you want."
I'm assuming there's something different about the new pump which is tripping the electrics. If I list all the differences I can find, perhaps somebody with knowledge of electrics can tell what it is.

Old:- Fiamma Aqua 8, Open flow 61/min, Switch 1.5 bar, 1.4 Amps
New:- Whalepumps, Flow rate 2.2 US GPM, 8LPM, Pressure setting 30 psi, 2 bar. No indication of ampeage, but has 5 amp fuse

I hope that's enough for some ideas. As you can tell, I know nothing about electics.
Thanks for your time.


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## TR5 (Jun 6, 2007)

Surely something must have been disturbed, or connected wrongly to cause the panel to "drop-out" when using the pump.

If it was too high an amperage for the panel, it would not wait until turning off to cause a fault.

The onus must be on the installer to correct the situation.


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Thanks TR5, 

I'd hoped/assumed that replacing the new pump with one similar to the old one might solve the problem, but from what you say that doesn't seem to be the case.

I agree the installer should rectify the problem, but even though he had installed a solar panel which works brilliantly and all the other work he did was very satisfactory he seems genuinely stumped by the problem.


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## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

If the dealer chose to install a different pump and it causes a problem get him to replace it with the original type of pump. If that does not cure the problem, then it is probably some fault with the instalation - again down to the dealer.

Cynical me wonders whether the 'new' pump was in fact a faulty one returned and sitting on the dealer's workshop shelf waiting for a home - preferably on a MH based 250 miles away. (Well I have just returned from an 11+hour 420 mile day)

Geoff


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## TR5 (Jun 6, 2007)

Your contract is with the installer!

If he is unable to rectify whatever problem has been caused by fitting the replacement pump he should either, a) pay for someone more knowledgeable to rectify, or b) re-instate the old pump at his cost and refund any costs involved with fitting tne new pump.

You can then go elsewhere to have the pump replaced.

I know sometimes these niggly problems may not be directly the installers fault, but they undertook to carry out the work and as such, are responsible. We have all (or at least those who have run their own business), had similar problems, and you have to take responsibility for your actions.


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Yes, thanks Nicholsong and TR5 I agree it's up to the installer to rectify the situation and we are still pursuing that.

I had hoped there was a glaringly obvious ( not to him apparently) solution in the difference between the pump specs, but that seems not to be the case. It looks like another 80 mile round trip to sort it out.
If anybody else out there has any input about the seemingly bizarre electrics peculiar to CI motorhomes around 8-9 years old I'd be very grateful.
In fact any literature about these motorhomes would be welcome, as we have practically none.

Is there any chance of a section on this site for CIs? Most other makes have a section and I see plenty of 10 year cariocas about.
Thanks again to all.


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## bigfrank3 (Mar 26, 2007)

I would think it's the back emf when the pump is turned off which is giving a spike and causing the trip to operate. Suggest to your installer the he needs to fit a blocking diode in line with the pump supply. 

The other thing which comes to mind is that the tap switch probably turns on a relay which needs a blocking diode.

Perhaps sallytrafic would care to comment. 

hope you get it sorted soon. bigfrank3


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Thanks bigfrank3. That sounds like it could be very useful (especially as I don't understand any of it).
I'll pass it on to the installer.
Thanks again.


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## bigfrank3 (Mar 26, 2007)

keep us all informed when you get it sorted, bigfrank3


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Hi everybody,
Here's an update on our water pump problem.

All seems to be solved.

After e-mailing him, installer came up with the idea of connecting what he called the sensing wire ( it's white and labelled pump running signal wire ) to the red wire which carries the charge from the battery.
I don't know why he didn't do or suggest this in the first place, but it was accomplished admirably by the heroic Mrs Spwt ( due to my legendary incompetence ).
The pump works fine and the lights no longer go out when you turn it off.
Result! 
Thanks again to TR5,bigifrank3 and nicholsong for their input and advice.


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Another update on our water pump problem, which we thought had been solved. :twisted: 
In the last post I put the following [/quote] installer came up with the idea of connecting what he called the sensing wire ( it's white and labelled pump running signal wire ) to the red wire which carries the charge from the battery.


> On no account do this!!
> 
> The pump was subsequently running all the time we were moving on our recent trip to the Netherlands and burnt out in Zeeland. Luckily an excellent MH repair business in Goes ( see other post ) disconnected it safely and avoided a possible fire.
> Still pursuing matter with original installer, who has now buggered off on holiday. His can only go better than ours!


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## davesport (Nov 12, 2006)

Depends on which type of water pump system you have, but I have a hunch. The new pump sounds like it's bigger than the old one. As you shut the tap & effectively dead-head the pump the pressure will go up & the current going through the pump circuit will do the same. Could this be enough to trip your electrics ? Perhaps a pump with a similar rating to the original would be worth trying.

You could possibly diagnose this by firstly isolating the pump. Open one or more of the taps. Then turn the pump on & off a few times to see if you can get the electrics to trip. IE run the pump without much load on it to see if the effect is the same.

D.


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## Spwt (Jun 27, 2007)

Yes, thanks Davesport. That's more or less what my niece's husband suggested and we're going to have a Fiamma 8 put back in.

I just wanted to make sure nobody followed the lousy advice we were given re the wiring, and I posted on here in good faith.

Thanks again, Cheers.


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