# Carver Cascade Water Heater



## vardy (Sep 1, 2006)

Help! - I've misplaced the manual for the above. 

Got a feeling it won't work on 12V! - But is it a 'two way' (i.e. gas OR EHU) I've hardly ever used it and when I did, I'm sure it was on gas.

Its got one slide button and 3 little lights on the control switch. Possibly red/amber/green as I recollect. 

I seem to have morphed into an arsonist since getting the van. So in the interests of safety I am not touching this thing until I find the book, or someone on here takes pity on my cold ablutions.


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Try this link as he sems to have it all available for all models with or without 240v;

http://www.arcsystems.biz/

From my memory the instructions are familiar with what we used to do...........

hope that helps, he has also posted this on another site when asked the same question;

_The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.

To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.

The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped'

Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.

Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.

Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely.

Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.

Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.

Fill barrel to max with water.insert the pump on the outside and place into barrel.make sure the drain stopper is closed on the outside,a screw fitting.close all taps.switch on 12 v mains,switch on pump switch,open one taps and let all the air out.could take a few minutes.when water is flowing from two taps and no air coming out.close taps and the tank should be full and ready to use on gas or electric. once pressure is there the light should go out.test light by opening and closing taps. 
_


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## vardy (Sep 1, 2006)

Thank you very much for the link Penguin! - I have been avidly reading and am going back to look some more.

It's beginning to come back to me and make a bit of sense now. 
Will look for model number and have a hunt for switches tomorrow when it's light.

Lots of thanks again, - Helena (aka Frosty).


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## Spacerunner (Mar 18, 2006)

If its the Cascade 2 model with mains electric it can be used on gas or electric or both together, brilliant!
When on hook up use it on gas and electric when having a shower for virtually endless hot water.


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## vardy (Sep 1, 2006)

Well I've been and had a look! 

Guess what? - as usual, I had found a really safe place for the user guide. Next to the boiler cupboard!!!! Ain't it always the last place you think it might be.

However, it does not give the very detailed instructions that Penguin found, so I am in front. On the Cascade control switch it says it is a 2. My instructions are for 2 or 2GE. 

So I have looked at the GE installation manual and it says there should be a nearby to boiler 'cut of' switch for the unit - looks like box for a domestic shower. Voila! - I have got one. I wondered what that switch did, whilst I was lying in bed nose to nose with it!

So I reckon it is a GE. Can't see this box being cut off for 240 plugs, as they come in the other end of van. It is directly above the boiler which is under seat, next to hob/grill. It is on the wood fascia.

Got a couple of other simple Q's if everyone's patience has not run out:
Why do the sockets in van say 230? I only recognize 240! and don't understand why it's different.

I have got the 3 'in line' taps under sink to turn on fridge/cooker/boiler gas supply. 
- Then I have got another tap in the gas locker with what looks like a picture of a boiler on it (symbol like a tall stew pot!). It is fitted into the copper supply out of the locker but I can't follow pipe as it is behind fascias.
My first guess is that it cuts off gas supply to boiler only. Or does it cut off supply to all 3 appliances? Have not touched it to test this just in case it's to be left alone!!
:blob6:


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## steco1958 (Mar 5, 2009)

Vardy,

Have a look here, Carver no longer support but they give a few email / telephone numbers that may be useful, and would you believe it that have a technical department

http://www.carver.co.uk/tech.htm


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## Highwayman999 (May 14, 2009)

vardy said:


> Why do the sockets in van say 230? I only recognize 240! and don't understand why it's different.


For an easy answer, it just means the same!


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## rayc (Jun 3, 2008)

vardy said:


> Well I've been and had a look!
> 
> Got a couple of other simple Q's if everyone's patience has not run out:
> Why do the sockets in van say 230? I only recognize 240! and don't understand why it's different.
> ...


Voltage; Member countries of the European Union are presently striving to achieve a common mains standard.
From 1 January 2004 the mains supply should be 230V (-6%, +10%), 50 Hz (±1%). ie a range of 216.2 - 253V
This replaces the UK's former specification which was 240V ±6% (ie a range of 225.6 - 254.4V)

Gas; I presume you have 4 gas appliances i.e. water heater, space heater, fridge and cooker/hob.


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## vardy (Sep 1, 2006)

Thank you all again for the really helpful replies. - I am getting there!

Have also realized from the above pic that I have fridge /hob/water boiler red (gas)cut off taps in a line of 3 under the sink - but no Propex space heater tap.

Ergo: The one in the gas locker with the little pic of a 'french stove' must be the Propex!!!

When it gets it's habitat check, facts go in one ear and out of the other. Cheers guys for being so patient. Once I've worked through it like the above, it stays in the brain!

- H xxx


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