# Help please - connection / fuse



## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

Hi can one of you knowledgable persons out there ID the lead in the photo. The small fuse is rated at 2amps and both the small lead and the thick one are attached to the pos terminal as is the pos to pos lead, all the other pos connections are on the other Bty. Hope this makes sense to some one

Regards 
Paul




site helper note - more detail in title


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## clive1821 (Mar 27, 2010)

the picture you are showing is a 50amp fuse and i would think its the supply for your 12volt supply for your leasure area, or perhaps its conecting to another battery perhaps, the cable looks a bit small though for a 50amp fuse to protect it... there may be another fuse but it is not clear enought to itentify it, but might be to do with the b+ volts..... without looking at first hand and tracing the cables its a thank less task to comet on it over the internet... :wink:


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

A bit more information is required really.

Such as what sort of base vehicle and what sort of motorhome would possibly assist. As it is at the moment any suggestion would be a wild guess !!!

Have you tried switching everything on, then pulling the fuse??what doesnt then work is what its connected to. sorry if that seems a bit obvious but its probably the quickest way of getting a definative (as opposed to a stab in the dark) answer !!


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

The small one will probably be a 2 amp fuse. There should be a pair of these next to van and leisure batteries, definitely a pair at the leisure.

The small one has something to do with the battery charging circuit from memory but I do not have the van handy and the wiring diagrams are in it.


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## drcotts (Feb 23, 2006)

Hi Do you have only one leisure battery.
If you have 2 then the lead may be to conect them both together.

Phill


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*Help*



Mrplodd said:


> A bit more information is required really.
> 
> Such as what sort of base vehicle and what sort of motorhome would possibly assist. As it is at the moment any suggestion would be a wild guess !!!
> 
> Have you tried switching everything on, then pulling the fuse??what doesnt then work is what its connected to. sorry if that seems a bit obvious but its probably the quickest way of getting a definative (as opposed to a stab in the dark) answer !!


Many thanks for the replies
It is a hymer on a fiat base,
, I have pulled the fifty amp fuse and the charging from the mains stopped or seemed to, many thanks for that I feel a bit of a fool now  
So at the risk of another question should it be connected to the same Bty as all the neg leads or should it be connected to the Bty which has all the rest of the pos leads or finally does it matter"

Paul


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*Two batteries*



drcotts said:


> Hi Do you have only one leisure battery.
> If you have 2 then the lead may be to conect them both together.
> 
> Phill


Hi Phil

I have two bty and have found the connecting lead to the other Bty

I now believe it is some thing to do with the charging system but seemy last post about where it should be connected

Regards
Paul


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## wakk44 (Jun 15, 2006)

I have the same fuses under the passenger seat of my Hymer which is on a fiat base,they are both concerned with the leisure battery circuit.

The 50 A fuse is for the charging circuit from the alternator to the leisure battery,the 2 A fuse is the feed to the control panel above the habitation door.


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## sideways (Jun 2, 2008)

if you have 2 batterys joined together +to+ ect it doesnt matter which battery the ancillarys are connected to, its only the other end of the same lead isnt it.


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## berni109 (Jun 9, 2005)

Hi,
the photo looks very like where i had my problem.
If you have an electroblock control system the 50amp is the connection for charging to the battery (charger and altenator) and supplies 12v to hab when not charging.
The 2amp is for the control panel curcuit and heater drain valve.

not too sure that has added much but HTH.
bern


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Hard to tell from the very fuzzy pic, but the cable on the 50a Maxi fuse looks a good bit less than 6mm2, which it would need to be for a fuse that size.


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*fuse size*



Kev_n_Liz said:


> Hard to tell from the very fuzzy pic, but the cable on the 50a Maxi fuse looks a good bit less than 6mm2, which it would need to be for a fuse that size.


many thanks for that, as the cable disappears into the bulk head it was assumed that it was coming from the charging side of the EBL101(although I can not see where it terminates) I have. 
1. If this is the case does the cable need to be a thicker one or
2. Is the fuse over kill??

regards Paul


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

Do you have a problem? or are you curious.
If you are just curious, then the fuse seems to be common to other vans (Wakk etc) and was fitted by the manufacturers, presumably knowing what they were doing.
Could the need for a 50 amp fuse be for protecting 'spikes' (I wish I knew what that meant) while not there for protecting a continuous load?

Alan


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

*Re: fuse size*



owl129 said:


> Kev_n_Liz said:
> 
> 
> > Hard to tell from the very fuzzy pic, but the cable on the 50a Maxi fuse looks a good bit less than 6mm2, which it would need to be for a fuse that size.
> ...


Paul I have to state that I am in no way an electrician, but in researching the self build I have learned a few things, firstly that a fuse is only to protect the cable NOT the appliance as some imagine.

I will be using a 50am Maxi fuse as you pictured, but it is only to protect the the 6mm2 cable feeding a 4 way fuse box, and each component will then be fused individually, this is most likely what you have as I don't think may MH appliances will need such a large feed cable, an exception in my build will be the fridge freezer which needs a 10mm2 cable to ensure minimal voltage drop, a very expensive rig is needed including a 100amp relay as it is the only way to switch via 10mm2 cable, over kill is only needed as a smaller relay does not come with attachment points for such large cables, run to fridge is approx 5mtrs electrically, I'd like a cheaper way but not found one yet.

Sorry I've taken it a touch aside of topic in my explanations.


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*fuse and connection*



rosalan said:


> Do you have a problem? or are you curious.
> If you are just curious, then the fuse seems to be common to other vans (Wakk etc) and was fitted by the manufacturers, presumably knowing what they were doing.
> Could the need for a 50 amp fuse be for protecting 'spikes' (I wish I knew what that meant) while not there for protecting a continuous load?
> 
> Alan


Hi
the only problem as such was,
I changed the leisure batteries, and on reconnecting the new ones back up I was trying to following the recommended way i.e. neg to neg and pos to pos with all the pos feeds coming of one battery and all the neg feeds coming off the other battery when I noticed that this hadn't been the case in the first place, with the shown (50amp fuze) feed coming off one pos pole of one battery and all the rest of the pos feeds coming off the other battery, I hope this all makes sense. :roll: .Any way the real question was should I reconnect in the same way or follow the recommended way?? or did it not make any difference? :?: 8O

regards

Paul


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I've split the +ve and -ve half to each battery as suggested in the thread I did earlier in the week.


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## Geriatricbackpacker (Aug 21, 2012)

My Hymer B584 (2001) had exactly the same set up for a single battery under the drivers seat (LHD). I wanted 2 leisure batteries and relocated them to under-bed locker. I was advised to leave the fuses ect as they were and extend the cabling (plaiting, soldering and sleeving) to the new batteries which are wired poss to poss and neg to neg and then cross charged-no problems so far.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

A read of this thread might help I know nothing about all this I just came across it while looking for something else, it made sense to me so posted it for the benefit of others.

There are a couple of links to the left of the page worth looking at too.


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> A read of this thread might help I know nothing about all this I just came across it while looking for something else, it made sense to me so posted it for the benefit of others.
> 
> There are a couple of links to the left of the page worth looking at too.


"And finally, finally, we keep getting asked where the chargers should be connected to. We didn't address this question because it seemed so blatantly obvious where they should be connected that it never occurred to us that anyone might be unsure. The chargers should always be connected to the same points as the loads. Without exception. "
I've copied the last para .which has now thrown me off as this is not how my batteries were connected up 
8O 
I give up

Paul


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## j50jwr (May 9, 2006)

Hi There, I have an exactly the same setup on my Burstner. I believe the small fuse protects a wire running to the control panel to enable it to get an exact battery voltage value for display and (by supposition) possibly for charge control purposes. This is shown on my wiring diagram, for the control system (schaudt ) but has no real explanation. 

John


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*moved fused wire*

HI All
many thanks for all the replies.
I have now moved the offending fused wire to the same positive post as all the rest, having tested everything as much as i can all seems to be working and charging OK, all Ive got to do now is work out how to reprogram the DT201 panel I have, to show the correct amps etc.

Paul  :wink:


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