# sogy bogy floor



## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi... we were awakened to the sound of are pump going flat out in the early hours to find we were flooded i have a new toilet to be fitterd as i thought the seal was weeping but discovered it was the feed pipe .this pipe had been got at before as instead of unscrewing the joint it had been cut into and joined with a peice of rubber pipe and juberlee clips resulting in it ballooning when under pressure. this must have been happening for a long time take a look at pic


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

so lads how would to takle this one


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi 
Hard to say looking at the pic, but if this is 5/8" dia semi rigid plastic pipe that the yanks fit, go to B&Q and buy a 15mm plastic push fit T fitting. .. It will be a tight fit, I used them to plumb in a new washing machine..


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

thanks jim..i was wondering as i never seen this type of fitting(weding ring/olive on the outside the tool for crimping them on is exspensive to


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

lugnutt said:


> thanks jim..i was wondering as i never seen this type of fitting(weding ring/olive on the outside the tool for crimping them on is exspensive to


Hi,

it's the same as mine then. 
Heat the end of the pipe in boiling water for a few minutes, it will make it easier to fit..

best of luck


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

jim ...what about the floor? i think it will have to come up bit by bit as over the holding tank .plywood do you think? in two halves to assist refitting


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi 
Plywood sounds good, use 'exterior' grade, fitting in two pieces provided it doesn't sag at the joint, I would also give it a couple of coats of exterior varnish or wood preservative.


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

i will be takeing it up tomorow see what is underneath..ie were joists are ect then give it a coat of thinking ill post pic of what awaits


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## olley (May 1, 2005)

Hi from the pic's your floor looks like OSB board (Oriented strand board) which is very often exterior grade, if you let it dry you may find thats its ok.

Olley


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## G2EWS (May 1, 2006)

Hi Lugnutt,

I would first of all scrub the floor then put a hot air heater in there to completely dry it. Once done this will give you an idea of the overall damage.

If there is damage, it will be very difficult to cut out and replace. Apart from the fact that you will weaken the floor. Overkill I know, but I would put a sheet of either stainless steel if you can get it, or aluminium. This gives you an absolutely solid floor with little chance of any future problem. However, make sure it is completely dry before!

When I had the Hobby 750 for a while, I completely stripped out the bathroom and bedroom sink area and was in the process of having two sheets of SS made that would fit either side of similar damage. These where then going to be bolted together making for a solid and light repair that would have become impregnable.

Regards

Chris


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## 98064 (Mar 10, 2006)

Having dealt with a number of leak issues in our old Dodge I agree with Olley, get it dry before you start hacking, as it were. 
Our American friends seem (certainly 30 years ago) to use some good well treated wood and we've got away with a number of areas were getting it dry revieled no need to replace, including two floor areas. One small, 50 pence size, was a bit bad but we used a Ronseal exterior product, name escapes me, that is like fiberglass resin. Basically lightly perforate affected area and liberally brush this goo on let it dry and hey presto solid wood again, designed for window sill repairs really. Needless to say this was a non structural/traffic area of floor.

Incedentally, we changed our loo recently and the flooring backing was the same colour (brown damp looking) as yours, and it wasn't a water leak 8O 8O 8O 

Si


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## badger (May 9, 2005)

I've only got a little one..................so I havn't experienced these sorts of problem, but............I agree with the concensus, that....dont cut it....dry it first then put in a dehumidifier thingy to remove as much moisture as poss. only then will you see how the floor stands up. By all means give it additional protective coats of some sort and then you can put it all back together.(after fixing the leak of course)


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

all my board is the same, from a very full er.. you know what tank  
same as dodge.. 

but my question, what is under the wood? what is the floorpan made from? I was just a little concerned because moisture staying down there could cause rust? 

thanks
J


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## 98064 (Mar 10, 2006)

Johng1974, under the floor will likely be, black tank, chassis rails and fresh air (unless the tank leaks :lol: )

Si


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## 98064 (Mar 10, 2006)

PS John...

If you have the same staining from the loo to tank seal, we didn't realise 'till I pulled up the old floor covering to replace it, I found that as one of the loo mountings had been over tightened in the past and broken this caused the loo to 'wobble' and hence the seal was intermitant, ie (bluntly) OK when your 'sat' but iffy when not, ie flushing!

One to check maybe?

Si


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

thanks Si..

so we are walking on wood? only? yikes... good for mot's tho  and weight!

Yes wobbly loo.. 
haven't emptied my black tank for 2 months, and the loo entry neck is just about full (clean water tho!) 

so i think there is a small leak from that point, will investigate more when i get the tank emptied.. see other posts..

J


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

thanks lads...ill try the drying out but around the ss**t hole it is very wet although were one stands and takes aim is ok. i like the idear of s/steel or ally or maybe the stuff used in industry with the none slip nobbles in it.
i don't think there is water trapped below floor as it was seen comeing out when on motorway


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## G2EWS (May 1, 2006)

Hi Lugnutt,

The plate you are talking about is called chequer plate

http://www.metal-centre.co.uk/PAGES/AUTO.HTM

I have some of this which was too thin for the roof rack of my old discovery which you are welcome to have. However, not sure as I would put that on the floor. My suggestion of putting SS or ally plate was as a surface strengthener. You would then put carpet or lino back down. The problem with the chequer plate is it would hurt your feet and be cold!

Regards

Chris


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

thanks chris...i was thinking along the lines of plastic or rubber the sort you find in toilets or bugger bars.

the heating is on full belt and seems to be drying out nicely ill take a pic tonight and let you all see how its going
dave


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

ooooppps thats burger bars...he he he


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi lads...this is the result of heater on full all day


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi lads....floor is dry now but around the hole is a bit flaky were the screws go back in (a bit like weetabix) what shall i use to strenthen it?
dave


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi dave
I would advise doing as Chris suggested and lay a small sheet of aluminium sheet down, it only needs to be about 1.5-2 mm thick and if you fit it wall to wall it will strengthen up the floor area where the loo fits and not be too intrusive under the floor covering mate. You will of course need to cut out the hole for the toilet outlet to go into the tank but if you get the sheet measured and cut at a sheet metal place they will also be able to put the hole into it for you, just make a paper template of exactly what you want so that there are no mistakes made :lol: :lol: and take that with you to help them cut it precisely.
Hope this helps matey and good luck

Keith


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi keith...i intend to do something on them lines ,but what the next stage is to strenthen were screws go back in any idears


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi Dave
I believe that you can get a resin that you can use to firm up old timber, don't know much about it so hopefully someone can point you in the right direction mate, I think that it is used to strengthen up saggy caravan floors so maybe a search around the local caravan repairers mate???

Keith


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## olley (May 1, 2005)

Hi Dave would raising the bog 3/4" cause a problem with its connection down into the tank?

If not I would fit a piece of 3/4" exterior or marine ply glued and screwed down. I would run it from the back, tight to the sides to about 2" forward of the toilet, your carpet will easily go over it and you can get a good fixing into it.


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

thanks olley that is a brill idear


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## G2EWS (May 1, 2006)

Hi Dave,

Can you confirm if you can get to the underside of the floor and is it open to atmosphere or (like in some RV's) is there an additional floor panel underneath?

If you can get to the underside then the best solution, which may seem an overkill would be to put a sheet of aluminium on the bottom as well. You would then have a sheet at either side of the rotten wood. To connect the two pieces you would use a sleeve and then a cheese head screw on the top to a nut and washer on the bottom.

See picture below which hopefully describes the process.

If you intend keeping the MH for a long time, this is the best solution I could come up with, discussing with a mechanical engineer. We where in the process of getting the SS panels made.

If it is possible underside, it may be worth undoing a few screws and slipping the sheet above any supports. I think it will become obvious what I am stating if you look.

BTW my Winnie has a cupboard in the rear accessible from both sides. The cupboard is floored in aluminium. This is the area where the water tank is kept and is below the main black tank. So I guess the Americans decided aluminium was the correct way to go!

Regards

Chris


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## 98064 (Mar 10, 2006)

Lugnutt,

Look carefully at how the loo connects to the tank. We have an Aqua Magic (5 now but it's the same fitting as the origional one) and the whole sealing process relies on the loo being able to fully seat (no pun intended) on the tank seal/fitting, ie with ours the flooring depth (van floor + carpet/laminate etc etc) is crucial to whether or not the seal is effective, not not being a good option 8O 

Si


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi chris the floor is not open to the atmosphere there is galvanised tin underneath and seald with some fome stuff witch sets hard the water that went in there worked its way out as a friend was driveing my bongo behind and seen it driping out on motorway,but if it can get out some can get in so ill be sealing it after ive sorterd this prob out
dave


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

hi....the root cause of all this damage see pic's


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## 99181 (May 12, 2006)

someone had fitterd a toilet and just cut into pipe and joined it with rubber pipe note seal on wrong way round at joint on pic 2.can i get the english equivalent of this joint and what size should i ask for its the joint that conects to the toilet


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## 98064 (Mar 10, 2006)

1/2" pipe thread onto toilet and 1/2" flexible pipe feading the water?

If it is there is a part available from the states (Linda?) though when I ordered they bagged a 3/8th to I'm awaiting the correct one though....

Wickses/plumbing supplies. 1/2" female pipe threaded connector to 15mm compression fitting. Then add on 1/2" to 3/4" pipe thread adaptor and a 3/4" thread to 1/2" (ish) garden hose connector and plenty of PTFE tape. This was my solution fitting our new loo and it works a treat with no leaks.

My be usless but just in case.

Si


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## G2EWS (May 1, 2006)

Hi Dave,

This basically means you have strength below the damaged flooring. Good news!

You will know for sure having looked at it, but the aluminum sheet will give you a very good cover and overall strength. Simply spreading the load. You will just need to confirm if a number of sleeves are required to give you additional strength down to the tin below. If this is not necessary then it is a very simple and straightforward job by the sound of it.



Regards

Chris


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