# roof waxing



## wp1234

(Mod Note. Two identical threads merged. See note later in this thread.)

How on earth do you wax the front end of the roof of your autotrail i.e the bit you can't walk on.
The only way I can think of is by rigging some scaffolding but surely there must be a better way ?


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## Zebedee

Wax the roof? :?: :roll: 

It's enough trouble waxing the bits you can see, but I do it every five years . . . . whether it needs it or not!! :roll: :lol: :lol: 

Dave :lol:


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## jocie

The method I used on my previous Hymer 544 was to put a 4 foot by 3 foot piece of plywood, 22mm thick, on the roof with a piece of old soft carpet underneath it , with the pile touching the roof. I could then move the assembly around the roof and climb on top to clean anywhere. I did this for 9 years and the roof never got marked. Hope this helps.


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## wp1234

Zebedee said:


> Wax the roof? :?: :roll:
> 
> It's enough trouble waxing the bits you can see, but I do it every five years . . . . whether it needs it or not!! :roll: :lol: :lol:
> 
> Dave :lol:


Sorry perhaps I wasn't entirely clear. By front of roof I mean the bit just above the cab front windscreen i.e the bit you see front end on


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## Chascass

I wash the roof area once a year (I'm able to walk on it) but never wax it (why would you) mine is the hi line, and the thought of the damage you could do the molded front bubble if you slip trying to wax it is not worth thinking about.
I have just noticed your last post, I reach as much as I can from step ladders from ether side

Charlie


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## thePassants

I apologise in advance for this:

but,

I can see the need for caution.

Imagine realising afterwards that you'd got a *waxed-crack* !


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## cabby

It could only be a hairline crack. :wink:


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## jedi

I use two trestles (one either side of each wing) and scaffold planks over the bonnet to form a safe platform. This way I can do the front 'bulge'. Then move trestle assembly round each side to do rest. Can't reach all of it, but get all normally visible areas.

Jed


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## maxautotrail

Dave :lol:[/quote]

Sorry perhaps I wasn't entirely clear. By front of roof I mean the bit just above the cab front windscreen i.e the bit you see front end on[/quote]

With great difficulty!

I have a 6 foot collapsable "A" type ladder (with no brace across the legs -just a clever locking mechanism at the top) that just misses the front headlights. This gives me just enough height to do each half from offside and near side. Too much leaning could spell disaster though and I like the idea of two ladders and a plank.

Keith


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## caoimhin

*Motorhome Roof Waxing.*

(Mod Note. Two identical topics merged. This thread started soon after previous one.
Individual posts are time-stamped so sequence is out of order. Should not be a problem however.)

My four year old Frankia roof neds a good clean, and I'd like to give it a good wax as well to give it protection over the bad winter months. (Better late than never!)

My problem is that to hand wax the roof will require for my 19 stone weight to be up there. I have no problem going up there, but wonder how strong is the roof structure. My motorhome supplier says stay at the edges and you'll be ok, so I'll get up with a piece of carpeted plywood about 4"x2" and have a go, and lean into the centre.

Has anyone else got any experience on this one? I'm scared for my machine, and would rather not go up if I thought I'd do any damage.


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## Steamdrivenandy

maxautotrail said:


> Dave :lol:


Sorry perhaps I wasn't entirely clear. By front of roof I mean the bit just above the cab front windscreen i.e the bit you see front end on[/quote]

With great difficulty!

I have a 6 foot collapsable "A" type ladder (with no brace across the legs -just a clever locking mechanism at the top) that just misses the front headlights. This gives me just enough height to do each half from offside and near side. Too much leaning could spell disaster though and I like the idea of two ladders and a plank.

Keith[/quote]

Can I come and watch Keith? I'll bring the first aid kit and I know my way to Leighton A&E Dep't. 8O :lol: :lol: :lol:

SDA


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## zappy61

I don't use wax anymore it creates more problems than enough by attracting pollution and causing the black streaks etc. I use Fenwicks cleaner followed by bobby dazzler applied with garden spray. Put on cover when not in use and certainly for the winter.

Graham


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## maxautotrail

SDA[/quote]

Can I come and watch Keith? I'll bring the first aid kit and I know my way to Leighton A&E Dep't. 8O :lol: :lol: :lol:

SDA[/quote]

LOL

Yes of course you can come and watch. You can also hold the ladder whilst I'm doing it


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## locovan

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopic-76219.html

good points going on here


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## wp1234

zappy61 said:


> I don't use wax anymore it creates more problems than enough by attracting pollution and causing the black streaks etc. I use Fenwicks cleaner followed by bobby dazzler applied with garden spray. Put on cover when not in use and certainly for the winter.
> 
> Graham


Every solution sems fraught with danger .Begining to think it might be better to use a wax smothered damp paint pad on a long extending paint pole to apply the wax and clean pad to buff off.


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## teal

As i am 6ft but a wrinkly and have Autotrail Cheyene 643L i have no problem . I use my 8 ft steps and working from either side of the camper reach to the middle and job done.Each time i polish i do the whole van like this.


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## eribiste

I made a clip on board to fit over two of the rungs on my ladder. Then I got some of that foam tube used to insulate water pipes, split the foam tube in half and glued the half tubes flat side to the board. The foam pads thus lie against the front of the cab cap avoiding damage to the bus while I beaver away polishing the bits to the side of the ladder. I have to go up and down the ladder a bit and move the ladder along three times, but it's simple, and anyway I could use the exercise.

I'll take a photo one of the days so you can see what I mean


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## DTPCHEMICALS

I use a ladder. Left foot on the ladder with my right knee on the edge of the bonet near the screen. If you like me weigh over 14 st. you end up with dents in the bonet
Ensure you have not polished the bonet first or you will end up in a heap.

Dave p


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## SNandJA

As hinted above use lateral thinking? Why not use something on a pole? I bought a cheap floor mop with cotton head from the "pound shops" and a spare head one to put on polish and one to polish up. If you then get above the sides with the ladders/scaffolding suggestions elsewhere you are pushing down to polish it is easier! If you look around some of the mop heads come with plastic connectors and won't scratch....


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## teal

SNandJA said:


> As hinted above use lateral thinking? Why not use something on a pole? I bought a cheap floor mop with cotton head from the "pound shops" and a spare head one to put on polish and one to polish up. If you then get above the sides with the ladders/scaffolding suggestions elsewhere you are pushing down to polish it is easier! If you look around some of the mop heads come with plastic connectors and won't scratch....


Yup i also do same and undereath the luton it comes into its own as this bit is hard to reach.


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## Spacerunner

Leave the dirt on. It provides a barrier to protect the roof!


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## DTPCHEMICALS

:lol: :lol: :lol: 
Dave p


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## Jezport

A note to those who ignore the roof.
If the plastic roof windows are not cleaned and protected wit a good wax,they are prone to pitting and clear ones can end up opaque. A good wax protects the plastics from UV and acid from fumes and rain.


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## Annsman

Won't a good proprietry wash/wax do? Surely it's the same and you can then do this from the ground with a long pole brush, then get up the steps from alongside the van to do the hump! I did my Cheyenne that way and it came up great.

On a similar topic, I did my solar panels while I was up there, you should have seen the bird poo and other debris come off them. Now that must have ben affecting them and they've only been up there since August!


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