# Loose & Vibrating Mirrors A Class



## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Loose & Vibrating Mirrors A Class.

Has anybody found a solution to the problem?
My B574 2002 has a loose mirror, the screws holding the assembly to the door need to be tightened but are inaccessible since they are covered by the mirrors sprung loaded arms etc.
How do you gain access to these screws?


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## 95422 (Jun 12, 2005)

*Loose and vibrating mirrrors*

I have a Hymer B544 registered May 2002, which had serious vibration problems on both sides. I bought the van from new and the problem got progressively worse when after 2.5 years, I reported it to Hymer UK in Preston. It was described as a design fault which afflicted the models at that time in particular. I have only just had them replaced some 18 months after I reported it (under a 'recall'?) by 'D' frames which were fitted to older models (connected to the vehicle top and bottom). They don't look too bad but there is a potential blind spot problem if you are not careful. However, they don't vibrate and the rear vision is now superb.

The sides of the Hymer 'A' class vibrate significantly. I used to attach my Tom Tom 700 to the side window, but it always ended up falling off. Wing mirrors need to be secured firmly to prevent excess vibration, and my understanding is that this was not done on the earlier models. There is a conversion kit with stronger mounts available, but this does not always work, and only suits certain makes of mirrors, which I why I had mine replaced.

I would recommend contacting Hymer UK in Preston for advice - they know all about it!


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Thanks for the reponse, I'll give Hymer UK a ring in the week.

Geoff.


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Just spoken to Hymer UK & to Hambilton Engineering and the concensus is that you hit the bottom of the arms with a rubber mallet and the mirror assembly slides up on a wedge plate to reveal the 4 screws.

We'll see!

How much is a new electric mirror?!!


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## parigby (Jul 18, 2006)

You hit it with a rubber mallet :!: :!: :!: :!: You've got to be kidding .... surely.

I thought hitting things with big hammers was a plumbers solution to life.


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## Tmax (Aug 5, 2006)

I had the same problem with my 2002 B524, The correct way to remove the mirror is indeed to knock it up off the bracket after making sure the electrical connection is removed. The mounting plate is fixed to the body with 4 screws and if they cannot be tightened "you got problems" My solution was to use fixings that we use here in France for securing things to plasterboard and which spread open behind the panel and then you can use small bolts to secure the plate. If that isn't an option a new panel might be the alternative. It worked fine for me and I had no more trouble. Good luck.
Tmax


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*Mirrors*

Hi

The larger style coach mirrors are removed by pushing them from the underneath - I would not dare hit one with a hammer - they cost £3000.00 per pair on some of the models!

To stop the rattled, it tightening the screws does not help, you need to "cushion" the area before rescrewing the housing back on. A thin long piece of blu tack has been known to cure the vibrating mirror before now!

Rapide561


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## grouch (Oct 1, 2005)

Does anyone know about the possible "recall" aspect of this.


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Yes, remove the electric plug from the bottom of the mirror, thump the assembly upwards with your hand and the mirror slides off a wedge plate revealing 4 screws.
On mine two were tight, two loose, one tightened up ok the other just turned continuously! What now? Can you get to the back of the inside panel or do as Tmax (above) use a cavity wall fixing but I can't get the screw out?


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

The Mirrors came lose again, now the top two fixings (the important two) won't tighten up. You can't get rear access to the bolts; and that's where I went wrong. They are not bolts and I assumed the nut was turning behind the bolt and therefore I would not be able to withdraw it. 

I should have listened to Tmax in an earlier post. I managed to withdraw the top two fixings and they turned out to be self tapping screws about 30mm long. I guess a piece of wood was behind the mounting plate to screw into. I used two expending plasterboard fixings and longer screws and it has all tightened up really well,-for the moment!

Geoff.


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