# Elddis Autoquest 140 water system



## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Bought a new 2010 Elddis 140 motorhome this year having owned a 115 before. Very please with it especially the huge bed but has anyone else found that when you switch on a tap it makes a knocking noise at a quarter water flow?

Also when you shut the tap off it makes a noise like a machine gun! We had the pump replaced but its no different. It's a whale autoflow pump.

Also when the water has emptied out of the main water tank, the pump keeps on running so you really have to be careful as it seems to switch on at the oddest times. Not just when you are running water.

Any ideas please?
rgds
Fiona


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*Pump*

Hi

I have a different motorhome and different pump, but

1) Occasionally, the pump just runs for a few seconds, even if none of the taps are on

2) Often, after using a tap, the pump overruns for a few moments

3) If the tap is not fully opened, ie just wanting a slow stream on water, the pump starts and stops repeatedly. I suspect there needs to be a certain amount of "requirement" for the pump to operate fully.

All these things seem normal to me, but maybe I am used to them!

Russell


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi, Russel,

Thanks for comments. This pump would run and run on empty and never stop! It's not just for a few seconds.

You can hear our pump from yards away from our van!

Maybe I need to ask Eldiss!

cheers
Fiona


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

it is like a mirror image of us we changed our 115 for a 140 because we didnt like climbing over each other for night visits to the toilet but our tap also behaves the same way you are describing also we are taking ours back for the third time with a leaking kitchen tap this time to have the whole tap changed


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi all

While I am new owner of a used Elddis 140, I suspect this is a pressurised water system. Therefore if the system pressure falls below that required, the pump will activate. 

Suggest you develop the habit of allways turning the pump isolator switch off, whenever the van is to be left for any length of time .

:?

Molenoux


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi All

With regard to the knocking sounds in the water systems, I would suspect air in the system somewhere. It might be worth looking at the pipe layout to see if there is a sag or slump in the pipe runs. If there is try straightening with additional pipe clips.

Intermitant or extended pump activation would indicate a leak in the plumbing somewhere.

:? 

Molenoux


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## kandsservices (Sep 5, 2010)

The pessure switch is built into the pump you could try changing the mounting feet from black to grey (they are softer)your dealer should be able to get these for you if the pumps runs when empty there is most probably a fault as the pump is designed to switch itself off in the event of being run dry as far as running sometimes there could be a leak some where normally from one of the joints


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## adonisito (Nov 6, 2009)

Have you checked the micro switch in the tap (if there is one)? Ours used to stick , meaning that when you finished with the tap and put it in the off position the pump kept running. I simply replaced the switch and the pump switches off when you close the tap.
This maybe of some help or not!


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

*2010 ELDDIS AUTOQUEST 140*

Hi All

We recently purchased a used Elddis Autoquest 140, about 9 months old, with 1050 miles on the clock. After trying it out over a weekend in January we think the following points might be of interest to others.

The Good-

Generally we found the van design, 2 berth, rear lounge, very good. Much better than our previous van (a 2005 model Trigano Tribute van conversion).

The layout works very well, for us anyway, plenty of space, good kitchen layout and work space. Comfortable to lounge in.

Beds; as a double, is enormous, as singles a bit short for some (anyone over 5ft 10 ish). Comfortable mattresses, fairly easy to convert from daytime to sleeping use, if a bit of a hand full.

Habitation area is warm enough, (so long as the side door is facing down wind). We were quite warm enough, (using a 4 tog duvet we put the heater on at about 5am) even though the outside temperature fell to well below freezing during the nightime.

Plenty of space in wardrobe, with a bit more spare space in the water heater compartment underneath. The wash room door is excellent. I don't know why this type was not fitted years ago.

Build quality - generally seems ok, we didn't find anything wrong except the habitation door positioning.

Peugeot Boxer seems a good base vehicle, light & easy to drive, well spaced gears, plenty of power. Fuel consumption averaged 35 mpg over 200 miles.

Electric isolator switch low down near the habitation door, reachable when standing outside, is good when entering in the dark, just flick the switch on exit or entry. Less fumbling in the dark.

The bad-

If it freezes outside, the water stops.

Water tank: Only 45 litre capacity, 60 would have been much better.

Filling can only be done from a mains tap with the correct screw connection. How it will fill where the tap has no screw threads to connect to, remains to be seen? A wetting looks likely as the pipe must be under pressure to open a valve near the tank.

Tank draining is very slow, needs a bigger diameter pipe and tap.

Serious insulation problem with the tank, needs insulating.

Waste tank; again the draining tap is far to small, I can see blockages will be common, so I intend fixing a larger bore tap.

Wash room cabinet; only of mediocre design and poorly fixed to wall. Will need further work before it falls off. The cabinet design could be much better, main gripe is there is very limited space to put bottles and tubes down, except in the cabinet. The glass shelf is of limited use. Who ever designed this part of the van, obviously never had to use it. Considering the large amount of space available little use has been made of it.

Under bed storage on the off side has been compromised by a messy layout of equipment, leaving a few spaces for small items.

Although there is plenty of storage space generally, there is not enough handy low down space in which to keep heavy items.

Cupboard door catches need replacing with something more positive.

Habitation door, poorly fixed, daylight clearly visible at the bottom. Not good on windy nights. Needs re hanging.

Outside hatch doors need handles instead of relying on the key.

No awning light.

Front mud flaps are not fitted, but are essential, with mud splatter all along the van sides. Peugoet don't have any worth buying, so I will need to find some from somewhere else. Fiat version costs £56 plus fitting so Halfords version costing £12.99 seem the answer.

Overall - for a van costing us less than £30,000, not too bad. Most of the gripes can be put right. With a bit of work and DIY.

There are plenty of vans out there costing much more, with just as many if not more faults.

Would I buy another? For the price - maybe I would, time will tell.

Molenoux


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Molenoux,

I have enjoyed comparing notes as l have the same model. You seem to get a much better mileage than me, l must have a heavy foot!

Have you done any modifications since you posted? I'd be very interested to hear about them.

M


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## tyreman1 (Apr 18, 2008)

We changed our van 2 weeks ago,had an Eldiss 115 (fabulous vans) changed it for a Swift Escape 622,1st time we took it away i was horrified at the banging noise coming from the water pump,traced it to the fact that one of the bike rack bolts was too long and was touching the pump causing a vibration,2 minutes with a hacksaw sorted that out,also had some of the plastic water pipes vibrating but another easy fix....all quiet now


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone,

Thanks for your query. Not much to report on mods yet, except fitted Halford mud flaps on front arches, much better, but not fully the answer. 

Habitation door has been repositioned a bit, much better. Though I think I can still hear some road noise coming in. 

Shower waste. I have disconnected the drain hose and bought 3m of new pipe which can be easily fixed to drain into hedgerow/drain/container on the very few occaisions it will be needed.

If you ask CL owners what they suggest you do with grey water, the usual answer is "chuck it in the hedge". No doubt comments will arise on this topic?

Cabinet door fasteners seem to be better in practice than I had at first presumed.

Biggest gripe thus far is rattles! The suspension on this vehicle is rather hard, so anything which can rattle certainly will. More elastic fasteners to be used, I think, especially on longer journeys. 

The MPG figures are those shown on the on board computer. Don't know how accurate though. I will post more details as and when they arise. 

We really like the layout.

Molenoux


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Thanks for the update Molenoux,

I must look at getting some mud flaps fitted l'm sure it would be an improvement. I think the shower drainage idea is a good one.

I've never have any issues with cabinet doors, whether they will loosen up in time remains to be seen. I do get some rattles, depending on the road surface. The very worst offender is the glass hob cover, l have to lay a towel under it to prevent its shuddering on to the pan stands underneath. Another is the worktop pull up extension which has very squeaky hinges when lowered.

I get road noise from the habitation door too, mine seems to be quite well positioned and sealed, perhaps it comes up from the steps?

I like the layout and also the lovely sunny lounge. As l'm a solo motorhomer l've ordered an extra seat cushion so that l can make a bed across the back by only pulling out the slats a couple of feet. This way l will only need to remove one back rest cushion. I have a memory foam overlay which will even out the joins. Another thing on the wish list is a swivel for the passenger seat as it offers much better support than the square lounge seats.

My computer mostly shows 28.8 mpg although l have seen 30.5 on a trip which is mostly motorway. I do have cab air con but its not always used. I must do a proper check by mileage readings. I'll let you know how l get on.

Marrabone[align=justify]


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone,

I have been looking into the cause of rattles a bit.

Seems the wardrobe door was the cause of a few. Put three felt pads on the door. Made a difference.

Also looked at the heater. After pulling the front cover off (remove screw under top cover (centre) fixing heater to carcass, first) you can see a silver metal heat shield, crewed onto the backplate. These screws had become loose. Lifting the panel on wardrobe floor, reveals the back of the heater. Tightening these screws (not too much) has reduced rattles quite a bit. You could probably try tightening the screws without removing the heater cover.

Our Kitchen hob and sink covers seem not to be a problem, after we put the oven gloves under the glass.

Regards

Molenoux


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Molenoux,

I don't seem to have a problem with the wardrobe door or the heater. I'll remember your advice though in case l ever do! I have fitted felt pads to the trapdoor in the bottom of the wardrobe though, as l thought that was a possible rattle area.

My latest problem is with the microwave oven fitted by the dealer in the wall cupboard nearest the hab door. I thought it was a very naff job when l picked the motorhome up. I recently had the first Habitation service done at a local agent. It passed with flying colours except for a stern warning about the microwave being insecurely housed.

I had a look and discovered that it was hanging on by one screw. I have had to remove it from its housing as the original dealer is over 80 miles away and l thought it was very unsafe. It has just been placed into the cupboard and the original door cut out to act as a frame for it. A couple of arm type brackets were used but on one side had fallen off and on the other side were held with one small screw.

I am not totally confident on their ability to re-install it safely but i'm not sure what else l can do. They originally charged over £200 for the fitting itself. I don't know why they didn't use a purpose built frame, l am sure it would have been much safer and sturdier too.

I do miss it though!

Marrabone.


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone,

Wow, badly fitted ovens can be a real menace. I do wonder if some sort of remedy might be achieved if you create a big enough stink?

Like maybe enlist the help of some organisation? The media? All remedial work should be done for free, but ensure you get the fitter to explain how he is going to re do it. Also check out how manufacturers fit/fix this type of accessary. 

We had a van with a TV fitted very badly, I think it was fitted by the first owner, it certainly was not a professional job. We thought it was a danger, so took it out. And do you know what, we didn't miss it, so we never take a TV with us at all now. Not the same though I know, but its best to be safer than sorry. Good luck with the remedial.

Let us know how you get on with it.



Molenoux


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone (again)

MODs.

Finally got around to sorting heater rattles.

Seems some of the cover grill bars were touching the alloy radiator, causing the noise. I needed to bend the horizontal bars upwards.

Also fitted some pads around the edge of the outer casing, resulting in much lower noise levels, though due to the appliance being made of tin, its always going to produce some noise.

Cheers

Molenoux


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi,

It doesn't seem right that, on a virtually new van, you should have to sort out the niggling problems yourself. Although sometimes its the only way to get it done properly. 

I am off on Monday to the dealer to get my microwave re-installed, l shall insist that they add extra safety measures this time as it was woefully inadequate the first time round. 

Marrabone


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone

Good luck with the remedials.

I think I would insist on seeing the work being done in person, being the synic that I am. 

Your idea of a good fix and someone elses, might not be the same.

I would like to know how you got on though.

Cheers

Molenoux


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi both,

Very interesting discussion going on here! I wrote the original thing and I have to say the whale pump still makes a dreadful noise. Some friends of ours bought their 140 from the dealer in S cave and they swapped it for a truma pump (which is v v quiet) but our dealer will only replace with the same under the warranty.

Have to give it another go.

Just to mention that the door noise when you are driving is from the side vents and we have found that we have a bag (containing some of our endless clutter that we simply must take!) that fits down into the recess at the door really neatly. Result, no noise when driving! Great.

PS Love the 140, hate the pump. We also use the oven glove trick to kill vibrations and also the tea towlel over the plate rack helps!


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

As l have never had a motorhome or caravan before l have just accepted the pump noise as normal. I do notice that its much noisier when the tap is only half open though.

I have removed my plate rack, as it didn't hold my plates very securely, and having used up one cupboard for the microwave, l found it took up too much space. The crockery occupies the back left cupboard and l usually shove a cushion in there to keep the rattles at bay.

I have now had my microwave re-installed and it is a much more secure job. They have used sturdy aluminum angle brackets at the base on both sides as well as steadying the unit at the top.

I have also recently had a swivel fitted on the passenger seat, l can't think why they didn't do this on the 140 as other models have it. I didn't bother with the driver's seat as l think it would be restricted somewhat, because of the bathroom, and its usually just me anyway. It does make quite a difference and l am pleased l had it done.

Do you find that the silicone around the shower tray comes away? I had it re-applied twice but still it pulls away.

Also has anyone added a second battery? The 75 amp is a bit measly and as l have started attending a few rallies l am thinking maybe l ought to get a pair of higher rated ones. I am not sure how to go about this though or even if its possible.

Marrabone


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi All

Just home from 4 weeks in Europe. 2600 miles. Story of our experiences so far -

1. Peugeot in cab heater started leaking. Bad smell. Lots of mist on nearside of windscreen. passenger vision ruined. Water levels in engine dropped, requiring regular top ups. Local Peugeot dealer in France said repairs could take a few days, and these would not be under warranty. We decided to keep topping up the water and repair when home again.

2. Heater rattles. It still does. I have tried all sorts of packing, bending of metal, tightening of screws, all to little avail. I am considering replacing the heater with an underfloor job. But just thinking at present. 

We have now started to hear loud squeaking noises from, what I think is, the rear spring bushes. No evidence of failure but am still looking. 

3. Roof vents noise. At speeds over 60 mph lots of vibration noise occurs. I think the remedy will be to fit wind shields to the van roof at the vent leading edge, similar to the one on our previous Bessacarr.

4. Whale water system. The Good. The pump continues to work, a bit noisy, but it still works. The pipe layout inside the van is still dry, no leaks at all. The Bad. Well what a poor rig up this is overall. First failure was the hose connecting the van to the tap. This sprang a leak about every 6 inches throughout its length. Tried to buy a replacement in Italy, but no joy. (An ordinary garden hose will not do. So ended up cutting the majority off the pipe leaving about 9 inches on the whale fixing end. (Because a very special small clip is needed to fix the pipe to the whale housing, an ordinary screw clip would be too large to fit inside the plastic housing) and neither I nor any dealer in Italy/France we contacted, carry any such spares. We then used our long reel hose to connect to the taps. This is a bit over the top when the tap is only 6 feet away. Next problem to emerge was the o rings on the van connection started to wear, and we now have a very leaky connection. Next problem, Yes we did come across a site where the only tap available was one of those push button types with a funny shaped end. No screw connection. Very messy, to say the least. I find this whale water connection system quite dismal. So what to do about it? Suggestions please would be very welcome.

5. Fuel economy - over 2600 miles the computer says 33 mpg. 

We still like the van though, in spite of these problems.

Cheers

Molenoux


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi All Again,

Just been handed this cheerful pick me up -Errr


- Mr Cadbury met Miss Rowntree on a Double Decker.

It was just After Eight.

They got off at Quality Street .

My name is 'Polo, I'm the one with the hole' she said with a Wispa.

'I'm Marathon , the one with the nuts' he replied.

He touched her Cream Eggs, which was a Kinder Surprise for her.

Then he slipped his hand into her Snickers, which made her Ripple.

He fondled her Jelly Babies and she rubbed his Tic Tacs.

Soon they were Heart Throbs.

It was a Fab moment as she screamed in Turkish Delight.

But, 3 days later, his Sherbet Dip Dab started to itch.

Turns out Miss Rowntree had been with Bertie Bassett and he had Allsorts!


Cheers


Molenoux :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

8O 8O 8O We are going to the mosell + the Rhine and Black forrest for 3 weeks on Friday in our 140 now you have got me worried :? :? :?


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Stephenpug,

Hope you enjoy a good holiday, I think you should be ok, though I would take a few hose connectors, sufficient to connect two pipes together and fit onto a smooth ended tap. 

The hoses used by Elddis are not the same thickness as ordinary garden hoses. Think about buying a spare clip to refit at the whale fitting end, there is very little spare room within the housing.

I think some of our hose leak problems occurred when we hit temperatures of around 38 c . 

Bon journey.

Molenoux


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Marrabone

Sorry to hear about your shower tray. Ours has not been any bother at all so far. 

If you find the sealing fails again, perhaps a strip of z section plastic might provide the answer without needing to fix the shower tray too rigidly, as clearly it needs to flex more than the mastic is capable of. 

Cheers 

Molenoux


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Molenoux said:


> Hi Stephenpug,
> 
> Hope you enjoy a good holiday, I think you should be ok, though I would take a few hose connectors, sufficient to connect two pipes together and fit onto a smooth ended tap.
> 
> ...


Hi Molenoux the way i get around the water problem is to carry a 10 gallon water bottle and carry it back and forth to the van :roll: But on the earlier point about the water leaking under the fire in the kitchen area and also from under the bathroom door has been resolved by the mechanic from marquis motorhomes (Tewkesbury) by lifting the shelf out of the wardrobe floor to get into the hot water tank cuboard he then drilled 2 large holes to get his hands into the void at the back of the bathroom sink and repair the leak which turned out to be the overflow pipe had come away so every time we used the bathroom sink it just leaked out so problem solved after 4 x 100 mile trips with the same problem    
So all set for our adventure to Gemanys black forrest tomorrow :lol:


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Molenoux said:


> Hi Stephenpug,
> 
> Hope you enjoy a good holiday, I think you should be ok, though I would take a few hose connectors, sufficient to connect two pipes together and fit onto a smooth ended tap.
> 
> ...


Hi Molenoux the way i get around the water problem is to carry a 10 gallon water bottle and carry it back and forth to the van :roll: But on the earlier point about the water leaking under the fire in the kitchen area and also from under the bathroom door has been resolved by the mechanic from marquis motorhomes (Tewkesbury) by lifting the shelf out of the wardrobe floor to get into the hot water tank cuboard he then drilled 2 large holes to get his hands into the void at the back of the bathroom sink and repair the leak which turned out to be the overflow pipe had come away so every time we used the bathroom sink it just leaked out so problem solved after 4 x 100 mile trips with the same problem    
So all set for our adventure to Gemanys black forrest tomorrow :lol:


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi both again,
Glad you are still enjoying your 140's in spite of a few probs.

Elddis refused to do anything about the pumpbut in the end Whale came up trumps when our dealer contacted them direct. They sent some sort of damper (?? not technical me) which had been fitted to the pump and it is now a lot quieter.

Happy travels guys.

Off to S Ireland for 3 weeks!

Fiona


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

Molenoux: With regards to your heater problem... Look underneath the van and identify the burner unit which sticks out below the floor. Once found, unclip the bottom unit and cover it with some alloy tape and replace. This should cure your tiresome problem - It worked for me


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

GRRRRR just got back and guess wot the bathroom sink is still leaking and coming out under the fire so I had to turn mechanic and look into the two 6 inch diameter hole that was drilled by marquis motorhomes to fix the problem and guess what the leak was not the over flow junction but the fixing on the tap so every time we put the tap on water flooded out so now I have to phone marquis motorhomes up AGAIN do a 100 mile round trip so they can look at it then book an appointment to take it back for the repair so that will make at least 7 x 100 mile journeys to fix a simple problem if they had done the job properly in the first place I would have saved a fortune in diesel and lost days off work :twisted:


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## divil (Jul 3, 2011)

Autoquest said:


> Molenoux: With regards to your heater problem... Look underneath the van and identify the burner unit which sticks out below the floor. Once found, unclip the bottom unit and cover it with some alloy tape and replace. This should cure your tiresome problem - It worked for me


Ah...I think this is maybe the problem I'm having with my 140...I was wondering how to get the bottom panel off the heater....so I just pull it then???

Cheers
Paul


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

Whatever it is that hangs down below the floor (underneath the van) is held in place by a spring clip. I found that the small piece that drops away is a loose fit and rattles like hell but sounds as though its coming from the heater inside the van. I covered it with some thick alloy tape and persuaded it back into place, re-attached the pin and voila! no noise...


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

Stephen, my tip up sink didn't impress me so I stripped the entire bathroom out to have a look... It's not that hard to do and it might pay to have a look yourself for future maintenance.

two screws above the sink and two in the cupboard, a long thin blade to zip through the sikaflex join and the whole lot comes out.

Your tap has 'possibly' popped a pipe because it froze over the winter (like my kitchen tap  ) Dead easy to pop back in, just a bugger to do! Not sure about drilling 6" holes though!

How are you all getting on with your shower trays? Cracked yet?


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Autoquest said:


> Stephen, my tip up sink didn't impress me so I stripped the entire bathroom out to have a look... It's not that hard to do and it might pay to have a look yourself for future maintenance.
> 
> two screws above the sink and two in the cupboard, a long thin blade to zip through the sikaflex join and the whole lot comes out.
> 
> ...


Thanks Autoquest I think it will be easier (and cheaper) to ask a plumber mate of mine to take a look but i am just a little worried about invalidating the warranty you know what it is like any excuse not to pay for a repair :roll:


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Sorry Autoquest the mechanic from marquis took out the false bottom in the wardrobe and drilled two 6 inch diameter holes into the wall that backs into the back of the sink/toilet the holes are cut side by side so they look like 8 so he could get to the drain pipes then promised the long running problem had been solved but in france last week water was flooding out again so i removed the wooden board he had screwed over the holes to find the drain connection dry,so i asked debbie to put the tap on while i was looking in the holes when i saw all the water coming from the bottom of the taps obviously a loose fitting but i cant reach it from these holes and i am worried about attempting to repair it in case it is a faulty tap and the dealership wont sanction it so invalidating my warranty


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

That's exactly the problem I had this winter with my kitchen tap which meant removing the fridge... The problem with this kind of repair is that one problem often leads to another. Fridge out, fix tap, fridge in but now the sink drain leaks (another rubbish design) Fridge out, check tap connections, redesign drain, fridge in. 

Leaving it to a dealer would have meant (as you know) hundreds of miles and countless visits. At least if I have any sort of problem now in the south of France or similar I can get stuck in and fix it.


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Autoquest

Thanks for the info on underfloor heater rattles. 

Looks like the heater part underneath is fairly tight, I tried to wiggle it, but there is very little movement, so I'm not convinced its the source of much rattling.

I did try putting some short lengths of foam pipe insulation over the blind pull down handles while in the up position, this seems to reduce some rattles though not all.

Maybe I'm getting used to them but I don't seem to hear them as much nowadays.

Cheers

Molenoux


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

*Again We Had The Same Problem With The Wash Basin*

We found the water had been leaking all down the back of the basin area and under the floor, there was even water seeping into the main living area and soaking the carpets.

It took our local place two goes to fix it as access is difficult. The guy from Motorplus in Derby said the hose they put in in the first place isn't long enough.

Some friends of our had exactly the same prob with their 140 so this is not an isoalted prob. They all have it!
Fiona


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

*Re: Again We Had The Same Problem With The Wash Basin*



FionaG said:


> We found the water had been leaking all down the back of the basin area and under the floor, there was even water seeping into the main living area and soaking the carpets.
> 
> It took our local place two goes to fix it as access is difficult. The guy from Motorplus in Derby said the hose they put in in the first place isn't long enough.
> 
> ...


Hi Fiona we had our dealership (marquis motorhomes) cut a hole in the bottom of the wardrobe you lift out the false floor which gives access to your boiler then they cut a large hole into the back of the sink where all the pipeworks are without having to rip the sink unit out but still could not find the cause after about 6 trips trying different things it turned out to be a plastic washer/unit that fits under the mixer tap which i changed myself and never got another leak,but we had to change the van because it had 90% damp behind the near side rear wheel which i have since found out is a common problem on the 2010 year models so check that out hope all goes well


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Stephen,

Well you are right! Five times my Elddis 140 has been back to Motorplus Derby get this leak fixed. When water goes down the basin, depending on how level the van is parked, the water comes either out of the basin into the bathroom, or into the water heater area or into the living area and also out the bottom of the van. It still isn't fixed but it isn't the tap as it happens even when we take a bowl of water and tip it into the sink.

How do you know this is a common prob with 2010 models pls?

cheers
Fiona


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Fiona,

Not sure if its the same problem but my 2010 140 is ridiculously slow to drain from the shower tray (l can be out all day and its mostly still there when l get back) and very slow from the kitchen sink. 

The weird thing is that the hand basin drains perfectly. I'm wondering now if its just going straight out of the bottom or something. I haven't found any damp in the van but often when l arrive home after a long journey, the very heavyweight bath mat l leave in the shower tray is completely sodden. Its a mystery to me where it comes from. I also leave the plug in but it makes no difference.

I'm not able to get underneath to inspect it but its going for its habitation service this week so l will get them to check it out.

Marilyn


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## divil (Jul 3, 2011)

Never used my shower but toilet sink drains well, kitchen sink is slow, it did leak shortly after getting it but fixed by tightening the screw in the plughole (dont over do it!).
I have noticed that water splashed over the back of the toilet sink can sometimes run down the side of the toilet molding and into the tray


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Hi Marilyn,

Fortunately we don't have much of a drainage prob from sink or shower although the van must be pretty level. A quick swizzle (technical term!) movement with the forefinger in the drain pug seems to break the airlock and down it goes. I bet the plunger previously mentioned would do that even better.

I think that it may be that the water from your basin is sneaking down the side of the toilet on the in/outside of the plastic and arriving in the shower tray. The only way to find out is to dry everything and then watch like a hawk while you try variations of how water is tipped into the basin eg from a bucket, from the tap, from a full basin by slowly raising the basin once it has emptied etc.

Good luck, pls let us know what the dealer says.

cheers
Fiona


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Ah yes l do have to use a plunger a few times occasionally in the kitchen sink and many, many times to clear the shower tray!

The strange thing is that there are is no problem with the water leaking into the shower tray whilst the van is stationary. (l don't use the onboard shower when on a proper site).

I really wish they would make the shower trays with a plug hole back and front. If the back of the van is high (which it naturally is) then the water will collect around the plughole but not travel underneath the van uphill to the drain tap. If its low at the back the water accumulates away from the plughole and l have to swish it.


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Marrabone said:


> Hi Fiona,
> 
> Not sure if its the same problem but my 2010 140 is ridiculously slow to drain from the shower tray (l can be out all day and its mostly still there when l get back) and very slow from the kitchen sink.
> 
> ...


Hi Marilyn try central leisure service (mark) for your hab check £95 and he comes to you it was him who found all my problems with damp in the back near side 1/4 and also in the toilet cubicle roof but the good thing is he will stand your corner when you complain to your dealership


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Stephen,

I would really love to, he sounds very good but l am under the impression that it has to be done with an Elddis dealership in order to maintain the warranty ????? 

Marilyn


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

Marrabone said:


> Hi Stephen,
> 
> I would really love to, he sounds very good but l am under the impression that it has to be done with an Elddis dealership in order to maintain the warranty ?????
> 
> Marilyn


Give him a call he has the authority to do hab checks


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## stephenpug (Sep 18, 2008)

FionaG said:


> Hi Stephen,
> 
> Well you are right! Five times my Elddis 140 has been back to Motorplus Derby get this leak fixed. When water goes down the basin, depending on how level the van is parked, the water comes either out of the basin into the bathroom, or into the water heater area or into the living area and also out the bottom of the van. It still isn't fixed but it isn't the tap as it happens even when we take a bowl of water and tip it into the sink.
> 
> ...


Hi Fiona i have sent you a pm


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## Marrabone (Apr 8, 2010)

Ok l'll try him in the morning - my hab service is booked for this Friday so l will need to get a move on. I do have a couple of weeks or so before it too late though.

Thanks, Marilyn


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi All,

Anyone had problems with the Whale water master filling system?

Ours has just about given up. When trying to fill the tank, water squirts all over the place. 

I am thinking of replacing the Whale system with a 40mm pipe, similar to the 2012models. Has anyone ever tried to make this kind of alteration? Any advice would be welcome. 

Cheers

Molenoux


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## divil (Jul 3, 2011)

Our filling system seems fine at the moment either when on hosepipe hookup or on the Aquaroll...did you ever get round to changing the waste drain tap on your 140 Molenoux?...one of my next tasks.

Paul


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

An essential piece of kit for the tip up sinks is one of those thin 'super' sponges that suck up everything. Pull plug, half tip the sink to drain, back down to level and place the sponge betwixt plughole and rear of the sink and close... works every time.

Anyone cracked their shower tray yet?


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Divil,

Re the waste pipe. 

No, I have not had to make any alterations as yet. So far we have not had any trouble with it. About once a year, I put an amount of mixed water/washer detergent down the drain and leave it in the waste tank for a longish journey. The sloshing around seems to rid the tank of any debris nicely. This tip was recommended, I think, by Grizzly.

Our water filling problem stems from an event in the alps last summer, where a site did not have a suitable filling tap. The site manager obligingly connected our pipe to a hose inside the toilet block. However the pressure was very high, and it promptly ruined our hose and the connector relief valve. 

On returning home it transpired, after trying various ideas, the remedy would be to buy a new hose and connector, cost £50 or so, with no guarantee it would not happen again.

In addition, we find that the whale system takes simply ages to fill the really modest sized tank. Once while in France, a site owner decided that our tank must be holding 150 litres of water or more, because it was taking so long to fill, that he wanted to charge extra for the water. We have subsequently found a few sites in France which charge motorhome owners for water, but not caravan owners. Why the difference? We don't use any more water in the motorhome than we did in the caravan. 

We decided to change to the much simpler method of filling through a 40mm hose with no pressure valves etc. 

I am also hoping to have fitted a device which will indicate a full tank at the filling point when filling, rather than looking for the overflow pipe under the van.

Other than that the motorhome has been a good one, comfortable, warm, dry and easy to use. The rear lounge arrangement is really comfortable. And we just love the picture windows. 

Cheers


Molenoux


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## Molenoux (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi Autoquest,

Thanks for your post. 

I am not sure that I understand your sponge idea on the tip up sink. 

Could you explain it again, thinking in terms of providing a description to a 'thicky' please! 

Is it your intention to stop the few dribbles which go down onto the toilet seat part each time the sink is tipped to drain it? 

The only problem we have had with the sink is, it will not tolerate much weight. I once leant on it a bit, and it fell off. Emptying the contents down my front. So long as you don't put much weight on it, its ok.

Regarding the shower tray. No, we have not had any problems at all. But we have disconnected the original drain pipe and replaced it with a shorter length of pipe, and use a waste container directly under the tray for the waste water. 

Cheers


Molenoux


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## FionaG (Jul 27, 2007)

Everything has been sorted now on our van by Motorplus and thankfully we are now in a trouble free zone! Still love this van!


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## gdaybiz (Oct 26, 2008)

*water pump*

do you know the location of the water pump ?


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## stenut57 (Mar 27, 2014)

I think it depends upon the vintage.

We had a 2008 Elddis 140 and the pump was a Reich Twin submersible inside the water tank, operated by micro-switches on the taps.

I believe that some had a pressurized water system with a pump external to the water tank though.

If you can't find yours then it's probable the former, hidden in the tank!


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## organplayer (Jan 1, 2012)

*Organplayer*

On thinking of possible downsizing, has anyone any experience/opinions of the Elddis/Marquis Majestic 105 Accordo m/hme . This appears an attractive m/hme for two and nice and narrow compared to the wide Bailey.

I have probably put this on the wrong stream but could"nt find how to start a new one off.


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