# Which Glue?



## barryd (May 9, 2008)

I need to fix the nose cone back onto the front of the seat on our scooter. The lugs on both the seat and the plastic cone appear to have worn away. There is just one bit that sticks up on the top and goes into a hole under the seat but there is nothing to hold the cone in place.

I tried Sikaflex but it just fell off after a bit.

The two sides of the cone will sit tight into against the leather (or is it PVC?) of the front of the seat.

So its shiney plastic against leather / pvc. Its probably going to flex a lot and be explosed to a lot of vibration and hopefully sunshine.

I have various glues around the house and in the van and they are all rubbish.

Can you get a glue thats just industrial strength that just works? A bit like super glue used to when it first came out before they had to weaken it to stop people glueing themselves together?

Any recommendations please?


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## fatbuddha (Aug 7, 2006)

from what I see from loads of other motorbike and scooters riding around with dodgy seats, gaffer tape seems to be the way forward for any repairs.

HTH

:wink:


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## valphil (Sep 5, 2012)

I'm with the fat guy , or try chewing gum


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Rubbish! Gerroff! :roll: 

Next.


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## SNandJA (Aug 22, 2008)

Everbuild Stixall might be worth a try!
Quote "Everbuild Stixall Extreme Power Clear Sealant Adhesive 300ml

The ultimate building adhesive and sealant. Bonds and seals in wet or dry conditions to virtually any surface."

but probably not scooter seats! Same sort of rubbery feel when dried as Sikaflex.

Official website
Everbuild Stixall

You can get small tubes as well and it is available from most builders merchants. I've used it to mend a M/H floor, reseal seams etc and I tried the cure under water trick with a piece of wood and piece of plastic and it worked. There used to be a video of it working but I can't find the link, and on the Stixall website it states the video is private when you click it!
Might be because of an adult rating!

Comes in 80ml tubes and I have black, white and clear in the toolkit in the M/H supplied via eBay by Transtools
Stixall 80ml tubes

I've found it much better than Sikaflex and more economical
Steve


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## SNandJA (Aug 22, 2008)

Given Stixall can be removed once dry from the poly nozzles supplied and forms a solid shape the dimensions of the inside of the nozzle, could you find something to mould a new cone with or use old one with screw to make a new lug, suitably attached and maybe shaped with stixall. It will cut with sharp Stanley blade...?

p.s. you've tried Araldite or two part epoxy equivalent I guess?

Any possibility of using a screw into one of the parts being stuck and using it to give whatever glue a chance to grab? Roughen shiny/smooth surfaces type of advice given on all types of glue...


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

Barry couldn't mould a bogey from his nose never mind a cone.

And the only lugs he knows about are the ones either side of his 'ead.  

Get shot of it Barry and give us pedestrians an easy life. :lol:


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## WildThingsKev (Dec 29, 2009)

Have a look at Stormsure glue, available from outdoor and watersports shops. I've used it to repair neoprene spraydecks and jackets.

Kev


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

No. I havent tried Araldite or two part epoxy equivalent whatever that is. :? 

The cone sits snug when attached so it should be possible to glue it and leave it overnight to cure with the leather and plastic tight together on two points either side.

Will maybe try the Stixall.

Thanks


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## VanFlair (Nov 21, 2009)

Hi Barry

The seat will be plastic not leather, don't think Araldite/epoxy will be any good on plastics.

My suggestion would have been Sikaflex. Could try industrial bostick.

Martin


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Thanks. Ive ordered some of the Stixall as recommended earlier by SNandJA.

For less than £4 its got to be better than the rubbish I have now. Like I said I tried Sikaflex (well a copy of it) and it didnt work.

Yes of course the seat will be plastic / vinyl and not leather but that stuff claims to stick anything to anything. It wont come in wrong though as Im forever having to stick stuff together. The nose cone will probably end up on some French back road.


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## SNandJA (Aug 22, 2008)

barryd said:


> No. I havent tried Araldite or two part epoxy equivalent whatever that is. :?
> 
> The cone sits snug when attached so it should be possible to glue it and leave it overnight to cure with the leather and plastic tight together on two points either side.
> 
> ...


Araldite or other 2 part epoxy adhesives are glue and hardener that must be mixed, usually in equal quantities.
Araldite

Read the reviews and the list of things it will bond. It sets reasonably quickly but full strength not usually achieved for 24 hours. Like all gluing projects surfaces really need to be clean and scooters will have exposure to oil/petrol. The cleaning agent often mentioned is isopropyl alcohol sourced from chemists or places like Maplins. I think I'd try again with clean surfaces, slightly roughened and if you still have some Sikaflex then go for that but there are different versions of Sikaflex for different uses!


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Post a pic of the part Barry, and the missing/worn bit, I might have an idea.


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

A picture would help since the glue may have to cope with vibrations, excessive movement and so on - why did the cone come off to start with?

or shouldn't I ask?

The glue has a difficult task if the lugs have been lost since the surface area may well be small and the strains high.....

I would probably have used the original (slow) Araldite since once it sets (24h) it becomes rock solid and will bind many surfaces together virtually permanently.

Using it is simple - squeeze equal lengths of the resin and the hardener out onto a piece of cardboard, mix well with a small piece of clean wood such as half a peg (MrsW is always wondering why she keeps finding half pegs :lol: ) then apply and fasten together.

Using e.g. gaffer tape or similar to hold it together while the resin sets will increase the chances of success but going back and moving it "to see how it's getting on" will not...... so resist those tendencies and let the stuff do it's job.....

Araldite has a long history of successful applications in the aircraft industry - and the wings don't fall off often :lol:

Dave


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## 91502 (May 1, 2005)

I once stuck a rear brake drum on a rover P5 with araldite, it lasted for another 3 years.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Thanks for the replies.

I got a second hand seat last year as a Donkey ate most of the last one (and no I am not making it up )

I didnt fit it but it looks like the guy who did tried to add some lugs with Sikaflex as it was a mark 2 cone fitting to a mark 1 seat I think. (Cone was off our original seat).

Anyway. three pics. One of the seat with the cone on top, one of it fitted. as you can see it fits flush on either side to the seat and one with the seat up so you can see the bits that are missing.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Have look at these Barry, one of them will do

Failing those, these might suffice.

I was hoping the pictures would reveal more but it's hard to see even with three pics.


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

I stand by my suggestion of Araldite - it is strong, sets hard but gives you time to adjust before it hardens, and once it has hardened it will not move.

It requires (like any glue) a decent contact between the two surfaces - the larger the area, the stronger the adhesion will be.

Like many if not most others, it requires a grease free surface - but that can be done by wiping it with a good amount of e.g. isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) or even with methylated spirits (ethanol + added methanol & purple dye which if you add water makes it cloudy and unpalatable - just in case you were tempted). The methanol will make you go blind and can be fatal so don't drink it..... 8O :evil: 

Apply mixed araldite (be generous) to both surfaces to ensure good contact, if you can roughen the surface with sandpaper first it sticks better than to smooth surfaces.

Leave for 24 hours after ensuring it will not move by securing the cone in place with duct tape / gaffa tape even parcel tape as it is only for 24 hours, but use wide tape if possible to ensure ot does not move as you apply it.

Hope that gives you some idea how to do it, it really is not hard (although the resin is once it has set......

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I broke one of the Seitz windows during the build, right where the window stay goes into the outer frame, I used Araldite rapid for that, big mistake, every time it gets warm it goes soft so I have to be careful opening it.


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Kev, I have used Rapid often, but did not suggest it as the time span for adjustment and securing in place is too short for Barry....

I have NEVER had it go soft once hard - it shouldn't as the hardener is an oxidising agent and causes a permanent chemical conversion in the adhesive, the only way I could envisage that happening is if either the proportions of mixing were wrong - less hardener than required leaving some adhesive unoxidised, or the hardener had "gone off" perhaps by being too old.....

I would write to the manufacturers of Araldite;

http://www.huntsman.com/advanced_materials/a/Customer Service/Europe

and ask their opinion.......

You may well find a free supply of Araldite winging it's way to you.....

Once it has hardened it is supposed to be VERY hard..... up to the sort of temperature we would find intolerable in a MH (40C plus) and then degrades but still has strength at 100C.......

http://datasheet.octopart.com/ARA400007-Pro-datasheet-11476230.pdf

and no, I don't work for them...... :lol:

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Reminds me of a old joke.

Brunette approaches the bar and asks the bartender for a double entendre, so he gave her one.

Hmm, a bit late for me, but the adhesive and hardener were in equal parts, so it should have been OK, I've never had any issues with the normal stuff.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Thanks. I have the Stixall on order now so will give that a go first. It might come tomorrow. Ill give it a good thrash down the lanes to Barnard Castle and over the rickety wooden bridge over the Tees. If that doesnt shake it loose it will be fine.

Except it will then probably end up in the river. Ill probably run out of fuel before then anyhow as I forgot to fill up in Darlington when I picked it up yesterday.


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## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

Only Barry could have his seat eaten by a donkey :lol: :lol:


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

> *Kaytutt wrote: *Only Barry could have his seat eaten by a donkey :lol: :lol:


Here he is the evil little (not so little) sh1t just about to start on it and then the van seats.

He even ate the EHU hookup Flap at Christmas. Just got a new one today.

Unfortunately Michelle adores them otherwise it would be the Glue factory! :twisted:

[fullalbumimg:8ab05a6ec7]1897[/fullalbumimg:8ab05a6ec7]

[fullalbumimg:8ab05a6ec7]1905[/fullalbumimg:8ab05a6ec7]


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey up.

You want an impact adhesive from the Evo Stick range.. Clean off any crap you have been trying to stick it with, be careful if you use any solvents that they don't melt the leatherette of the seat..

Give it one coat of impact adhesive to both surfaces let it dry, then give it another coat on both surfaces and let it go just touch dry then fit the two together, it should then grab and hold..

It will easily last for weeks :lol: :lol: :lol: . Just kidding it will stay stuck. Just don't rest the family jewels on it too hard..

ray


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Well my Stixall arrived today. I failed at the first hurdle. I ordered white not clear.  

Tit.

Anyway Ive still used it. sanded and cleaned the surfaces a bit and clagged it on. Then spent an age scraping off and cleaning all the white bits off where visable. :evil: 

Will now just wait 24 hours and see what happens.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

There's still the other more sensible option once you've picked it up and removed the Stixall,   which isn't a glue but a glorified PU Sealent like Sikaflex


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## SNandJA (Aug 22, 2008)

barryd said:


> Well my Stixall arrived today. I failed at the first hurdle. I ordered white not clear.
> 
> Tit.
> 
> ...


Comes in black too!
Stixall Black
This is probably as cheap as an 80ml tube anyway. See if the white works and then I suppose you could cover over white with black and use the rest to fix the leaking gutters or......

:wink:

You can get grey too.....


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

And brown for the bog.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Well you cant really see it now but If it works Ill get some clear and black as well. If it works!


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## emmbeedee (Oct 31, 2008)

This thread reminds me of a chant that was popular when I was at college:

Araldite, Araldite, sticks like bloody sh!te!

Don't know where it came from but seems topical.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

The Stixall seems to have worked. If its not a glue then why is it called STIXall as in it Sticks (Stix) stuff?

I gave it a bit of a rive at lunchtime and it appears to be stuck back in ok. Whether it will last or not I dunno.

Thanks for all the recommendations.


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