# Motorhome to Corfu. Warts and all.



## dethleff (Jun 25, 2005)

Motorhome to Corfu. Warts and all.

Never found much on the web regarding a drive
to Corfu, so it may be of interest to someone.

Part 1 Dunkirk to lake Guarda.

Prior to buying our m/h 10 years ago we had spent many holidays on the beautiful island of Corfu. So after many trips to France, Spain, Portugal, etc we decided to do the trip to Corfu.

The three main itineries were the Mosel Valley, Venice, then ferry to Corfu

We set off on Sunday the 27th of august 2006 for Dover for a Norfolk line crossing at 2am.
We set tomtom for Marine Parade Dover, that was recommended on MHF for parking up for a couple of hours, before catching the ferry. After a nice man had backed us up out of a narrow road, (East Cliff), and directed us to the Marine Parade, that we were looking for, we stopped there for a couple of hours, but didn’t manage to get any sleep.

At midnight we drove the short distance to the Norfolk line check in and handed the chap
our computer printout of our details for the crossing, after a few minutes, while we are thinking is this bloke new to the job, he looked up and said, “this booking is for tomorrows crossing.” “Goodness me” I said or something similar, “What can we do about it”, suspecting it was going to be a get you wallet out. “Well we can get you on this crossing, but it will cost you £10.” I grabbed a tenner and offered it to him, “No you have to go to the office and pay” So over to the office, got out in the pouring rain, and let them stiff me for the tenner. (Remember this for the return journey).

I have to confess that I have now reached the age where you forget that you can’t manage
the things, you thought you could, when you were a bit younger.
It is years since we have done a night crossing, big, big, mistake at our age.
We found a seat and slept for the two hours solid. Still being in that twilight world we
disembarked into the most horrendous rain and pitch black night.

This was the first time we sailed to Dunkirk, now most ferry ports I need a map to get out of, but this port seemed to be built on half of France and designed by Stevie Whatsit.
We had set tomtom to an aire just along the coast from the Ferry.

A word about tomtom, because we were going to cross a few borders, I had decided to try
using Major Roads of Europe. ( took us all the way to Venice, and we only incurred 10 euros toll charges in Italy), in the hope that country maps wouldn’t try to be a smart alec, and take us a shortcut down someone’s backyard.

Stupidly in my foggy state I didn’t set the map to France to find the aire, after a hour or so we found a carpark somewhere in Dunkirk, and went to sleep, to be woken by some French road sweeping machine, a couple of hours later.
“Well” I said to the wife, who’s face by this time could have soured milk straight out of the cow, “only another 800 and odd miles to go.”

We gathered ourselves together and set off in the pouring rain for the next stage of the journey.
Diesel Fuel 1.06 a litre. Belgium.
Our destination was the Mosel Valley. I set tomtom for Trier in Germany, knowing we would not reach it in a day, but would find a POI when we felt ready to stop for the night.
After negotiating the Brussels ring road still in heavy rain we skirted Liege onto the A15.
After 25 miles we stopped and changed to the Benelux map, to look for a overnight stop.
We found a campsite at a place called Meefe on the WOMO POI’S about 8 kilometres.

So off we set, Daisy (tomtom) leading us almost to our destination, when at a crossroads
Smart Alec took over and directed us to go straight on down a road that grew slowly narrower and more overgrown, until it became impassable. After a 26 three point turn
We emerged to to see a sign left for the campsite, obviously the sign was put there for tomtom users. On arrival at the entrance of the campsite we noticed a narrow road a few yards away, completely overgrown, which turned out to be Smart Alecs route, so tomtom would have got us here, if we had been prepared to scrub up half of Belgium.

I carry no maps when traveling, relying on tomtom only, I think GPS is the bees knees and so I am prepared to forgive it, even when Alec takes over.

The campsite, to be honest if it wasn’t for the fact that we had had so little sleep, we would have turned round and looked for somewhere else. In this case though it was
any port in a storm. I found the owner cooking in their small restaurant, who said yes he
had a space, and I managed to understand, could I give him a few minutes to finish cooking?. I said ok and walked around the campsite. Most of the free spaces had a small wire pen containing baby pigs, the only space I could see was on a gentle grassy slope, and, as Belgium had had so much rain they were thinking about building Arks I was very uneasy about being led to this particular space for fear of getting stuck.
The campsite consisted mainly of static caravans who looked as if it was there permanent abode, but they turned out to be very nice people, especially when after being led to aforementioned space, they all turned out in the pouring rain to give me a push when I did actually get stuck.
After a cup of tea, and asking a few campers if I could make them a gift of my motorhome I went to the restaurant to fill in the mandatory form along with our passports.
Now not being a regular traveller in Belgium, I have to admit I am not too clear on what language is currently in fashion, is it French, Flemish, Walloon?.
Well I tackled the form and wasn’t doing too bad when, I came across one question on the form I couldn’t figure. I gestured to the site owner to come over and help with the problem, over he came and I pointed to the problem question, and tried to put what I hoped was a puzzled expression on my face. “Ah” he said, and began to sing happy birthday to me, problem solved, date of birth.

Campsite fee 12.50 euros including electric.



Next morning we continued on towards Germany (now back to tomtom MREurope) again in the pouring rain. On crossing the German border we changed to tomtom German map and set it for a poi stellplatz Wintrich.
After a very pleasant drive on superb free Belgium and German motorways, and Daisy behaving perfectly we arrived at the entrance of the stellplatz.

Wintrich stellplatz is a quiet stellplatz for seven motorhomes, superbly laid out in a vineyard, and a very short stroll to the town. The only thing against it, it is quite a way
from the river, and every morning, yes every morning the refuse collectors came along and woke us up, just beating the church bells from doing so.
Apart from Minheim stellplatz we were woken by church bells on every stellplatz
we visited.
We thought that the bells maybe on old tradition going back to the time when they were rung to call the vineyard workers to work.
But all this is only a minor irritation, The Mosel Valley is simply incredibly beautiful,
and even the words incredibly beautiful does not do it justice.

There were two other M/Hs on site with us, both Brits, who surprise surprise. came over
and had a chat, one chap told me seeing my left hand drive, it was is first time abroad and was having uneasy moments driving his big right hand drive Hymer. I told him not to worry I have the same moments with a left hander. Well we are getting on a bit.
We stayed two nights to charge our batteries, so you can see the early morning noise wasn’t that bad.
Two nights 14 euros.

Continued on to stellplatz Trittenheim.

Sun arrived at last, a glorious sunny day.
Trittenheim. A lovely town is right on the river Mosel, quite a popular spot, we managed to get on, even right next to the river. Charges were 7.50 euros a night inc electricity with a water machine costing 50 cents for 60 litres.

100 yards from the s/platz is a boarding stage for the river boat trips. Next morning warm and sunny we waited at the boarding stage for the river boat that would take us to Bernkastel- Kues. We learned that tickets were purchased from a man in a car nearby, not on the boat.

The trip from Trittenheim to Bernkastel-kues took 2 hours, stopping at a few pickup points along the way. The fare was 15 euros each, return, and worth evey penny.
The river twists and turns along the way, opening up to new views as you meander along.
It was the start of the wine festival (this day being 1st sept 2006) and the town was packed. The streets were full of wine, food, novelty stalls, but the entertainment was
at night. We had lunch at a bratwurst stall, first time we had tried it, turns out to be a high quality sausage. I asked if they had any tomatoe ketchup, “no” we only have CURRY ketchup. I tried a spot of it on the bratwurst and tasted it, then drenched it in it, lovely.
All in all a very pleasant day.
During the river boat trip we passed Minheim stellplatz that we thought looked nice
and put it down to stay later on.

Its not only sunny now its getting very hot.
Spent the next day fishing. The Mosel river is a beautiful wide river that looks as if it should be full of fish, it might be, but I couldn’t catch any, I took comfort though. from the fact that the German fishermen couldn’t either.
Note for fishermen, any visitor who does not reside in Germany does not need a fishing license.

Moved along the river to Neumagen Dhron Stellplatz.
Cost per night here is 11 euros. Dearer than any other place we stayed, but here there are showers, and washing machines.
At this platz there is what looks like a big blue aluminium caravan built on top of a boat.
Unlike the other Stellplatz we stayed on where someone collects your nightly fees, you have to go here to pay. It also contains the showers, included in the 11euros, but washing machines you pay extra.

Spent 3 nights here exploring the town and walking along the river. We paid a visit to
the Tourist Office where we were given a pamphlet showing a map where the Roman
remains were located, but theres not much left of them.
There is a decent supermarket at the edge of town.

Next and last stellplatz Minheim.

This platz is very, very popular, and not because it is the cheapest one we stayed at, 6 euros a night. From what I could deduce from the sign in German, it won best
Stellplatz 2006.
We stayed 8 days altogether and saw many give up waiting for a space and moved on.
Not knowing it at the time, we arrived about 10 am in the morning. This was the ideal time when M/homers who were moving on, would start leaving.

The 4 lines of pitches stretched along the the river, I managed to get a space on the second row, which turned out to be great source of amusement to us.
The front row being directly next to the river was highly prized and every morning
about 10am, people from rows 3 and 4 would congregate to see if anyone on the riverside
row was moving. When someone did, the smart ones would signal to their wife to rush over with a folding table or chairs to claim the pitch. Others, till they learned the system,
would rush back and drive their m/ homes over, only to find a folding table or chair
occupying the pitch. Others actually must have asked front rowers when they were moving, and when learning someone was moving next day, they would move their own m/h down alongside the next day at about 9 am, with the resultant traffic jam from other front rowers who might happen to be moving.

The next morning the people next to us moved on and less than a minute later this bloke
from row 4 leapt the 2 foot high fence clutching the obligatory folding chair.
Turned out to be Alan and Di two English full timers, who knew the folding chair system
has they came here regularly for the wine festival in a weeks time. We became good friends with them. They told us if we ever walked along the river to Piersport and fancied a meal out, go to the butchers, its also a restaurant, which we did many times, can highly recommend it.
A new stellplatz is planned for Piersport for next year, another beautiful place.

We had by now been experiencing superb weather, when about 5 o’clock one day it grew quite dark when all of a sudden a great wind blew up, a German close by had is awning blow straight over the top of his van, completely wrecking it. We got ours in pretty quick.

The Minheim wine festival starts on the 15th of Sept, a very enjoyable night, though somewhat spoiled by the fact due to moving next day, I stayed on the wagon, though, I had made up for it the previous evening. 

Next stop was an aire de service at Ribberville in France. The journey took us through
Saarbrucken in Germany. We got through ok, but the road runs along and keeps crossing
The tram lines, and is one traffic light after another. Can’t say I would recommend it. 

Fuel in Germany 1.10 euros a litre.

The aire at Ribberville turned out to be a carpark with only one m/home there, the rest of 
the spaces were all taken up with cars. It turned out it was Ribbervilles wine festival weekend. So the town was heaving.We were lucky enough to find an aire just down the road, with one space left. Even though we had to reverse in over the tree trunks that were used to mark out the designated spaces.
There were no facilities on this aire and had a charge of 1.50 per night obtained from a ticket machine.

So after a pleasant evening meal we settled down with our books, and enjoyed the cooling breeze that wafted in through our two open windows. The weather was still very warm. OPEN WINDOWS! When will I ever learn?.
It was about 4 o’clock in the morning when I was woken by persistent itching on my hands. The cold light of day revealed six mossie bites. (I am not sure whether its because I am a diabetic, but it takes my immune system a long time to deal with them)
I asked my wife if she had been bitten, no, she said, she had put mossie cream on while I was getting the ticket out of the machine.

Next morning we set off in the pouring rain for Lake Lucerne in Switzerland, on the A35 for a campsite at Bekenried.
On arrival at the Swiss border at Basel we were told to where to park and go and obtain
the required vignette. Over I went and presented myself to the military gentleman. I said “hello, I require a vignette”. He stood staring at me for what seemed an age, to the point where I looked down to see if I trodden in anything. “Good morning” he said,
Ah! That’s where I had gone wrong, I had said hello instead of good morning. “Good morning” I said, holding my Credit card up again so he could see it. He stared at me again for a few moments, then with what must have been a great effort on his part, pointed to the credit card pin number thingy, and I inserted my credit card. He didn’t move. I went through the mime of inserting my pin number, looking at him while doing so, He shook his head slowly at this poor English cretin in front of him. Then to my great
relief he did a smart about turn, went over to his desk and returned with my hard won vignette.Welcome to Switzerland.

Vignette 40 swiss francs

Basel, If I didn’t know that Switzerland had been neutral during the war, I would have
swore it had been badly bombed during that conflict. The road reconstruction workings going on make it a nightmare. If you can find another crossing into Switzerland take it.

Stopped 30 kilometers into Switzerland for some fuel 
Went in to pay the girl, said “hello” and gave her my c/card. Oh dear! I had used the hello word again, no reply, but instead she went into a thousand yard stare, with the most miserable face I had ever seen. Walked back to the van repeating to myself, must not use the word hello, must not use the word hello.

Diesal litre 1.78 swiss francs = 75pence.

Arived at campsite Sportzentrum, Bekenried. Lake Lucerne.

Went to reception and said “Hi” It worked! A really nice bloke, couldn’t be more helpful.
We parked next to this tiny caravan, (we had been told where to park due to the rain sodden ground, ). The EHP was one I had never seen before, but 20SF deposit you could hire one.
So we sat there with a cup of tea watching the rain bucket down, and looking at the lower slopes of the mountains, everything above was covered in mist. It was pointless venturing out due to the rain, so we sat reading, hoping it would give over, and we could go and have a look at the Lake which was close by.

Sometime later the door of this mini caravan ( It was the size of a mini car) next to us opened and this chap got out, he had to be six feet tall, who came and stood by our window and peered in at us, much to the alarm of my wife. He was followed by another man, this time an elderly gentleman. We waited to see if there were any more residing
in the caravan. We couldn’t figure out how on earth they managed in such a tiny space, but they did. 

The rain eventually eased up and we went and had a look at Lake Lucerne. Sad to say this was not the ideal time for our first view of the famous Swiss lake. The rain had started again, plus the mist, everywhere deserted; it was not the best light to see our first Swiss
Lake. We spent ten minutes sheltering in a lake pleasure steamer ticket office counting
the mosquitos on the walls, then deciding to make a run for it back to the van.

We decided to stay another day hoping the weather would improve, It did start brighter
but it soon reverted back to the previous days weather.

Campsite 29.80 swiss francs a night. £12.62

Next stop Lake Guarda.

The A2 motorway to Milan was very busy. I was aware that there were tunnels in Switzerland, but was surprised just how many there were. Quite a few were closed one way, for repairs, so traffic were using the remaining tunnel both ways.
We noticed every so often lorries were made to pull over into a slip road, where they
were then let back on to the motorway at intervals, so as not to create bunching.
Whether this was for tunnels, or just traffic calming we don’t know, but we thought it a great system.
We arrived at the Gottard tunnel still in pouring rain, which I believe is 17 kilometers
long. We emerged into brilliant sunshine and blue skys. Now we could see the mountains
in all their magnificence, we pulled into a rest area and just feasted on the scenery.

The A2 joins the A4 north of Milan, now traffic was very very busy, here they were laying a fourth lane to the motorway, so traffic was down to a crawl for about an hour.
Once through this it was solid traffic all the way down to Lake guarda. 

Camping Vo, Dezensano Del Guarda. £21 a night

Lake Guarda was beautiful, to be fair, the weather was glorious, but apart from that
Dezensano Del Guarda was alive with people, and shops were all open, it felt like being on holiday after Lucerne.
Camping Vo was adequate for the three days we were there, its situated 1.8 kilometers
outside the town of Dezensano Del Guarda on the lakeside, a nice walk into town.

Woke up to 9 mossie bites, yes sprayed, candles burnt tablets etc.

Next stop Venice.


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## takeaflight (May 9, 2005)

Excellent :lol: 

Venice report ASAP Please


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## whistlinggypsy (May 1, 2005)

A great review but why OH why twice.

And when is the 2nd part im fascinated because we have done this trip and we are dying to know what happened next.

Bob


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## dethleff (Jun 25, 2005)

sorry, don't know why twice. but I have edited it, only once now.
Stan


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## Don_Madge (May 1, 2005)

whistlinggypsy said:


> A great review but why OH why twice.
> 
> And when is the 2nd part im fascinated because we have done this trip and we are dying to know what happened next.
> 
> Bob


Bob,

I thought they did the trip twice :lol: :lol: Looking forward to part two as we have done the trip a couple of times.  Always interesting to read other peoples views 

Will be very interested on their thoughts on Corfu which is not exactly a motorhomers paradise 8O 8O

Regards

Don


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## whistlinggypsy (May 1, 2005)

Corfu Like Majorca is not motorhome friendly as we found out.

Bob


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## freewheeler (Nov 6, 2005)

These reports are one of the best things on this forum, and this one is as good as they get. Many thanks for taking the time to share it with us - roll on Pt 2.

Any more budding writers out there


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## peejay (May 10, 2005)

Hi Stan,

Thanks for taking the time to do that, I love to read all about other folks travels.

Thanks for reminding me about 'currywurst', god I love German food, I usually put on about a stone whenever we visit! 

We've been to Greece twice with the van but always regretted not jumping off the ferry to have a look round Corfu on both occasions although like previous comments in this thread, we've heard mixed reports. 
We may be going that way again next year, so really looking forward to reading your experiences in part 2 to see what you thought of it.....

pete


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## Don_Madge (May 1, 2005)

whistlinggypsy said:


> Corfu Like Majorca is not motorhome friendly as we found out.
> 
> Bob


Bob,

If you want a motorhome friendly island go to Sardinia  , it does come with a government warning, it can do serious damage to your bank account 8O 8O

Don


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## aultymer (Jun 20, 2006)

*Great tale*

Many thanks for the comprehensive report of your trip. 
Your wonderful self deprecating tale of coping with ferries and the route will teach us all much more than any tale of a journey which went smoothly. 
BTW I understand that it is cheaper to buy your Swiss Vignette on line before you leave the UK. 
I too look forward to your report on the next part of your trip. Having seen Venice from a hire cruiser and Corfu from a tour bus I would like to know what they would be like for a motorhome.

PS Is it Guarda? or Garda?


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## Don_Madge (May 1, 2005)

*Re: Great tale*



aultymer said:


> BTW I understand that it is cheaper to buy your Swiss Vignette on line before you leave the UK.
> PS Is it Guarda? or Garda?


Hi,

If you buy the Swiss Motorway vignette on line it will cost you £18.50 plus a booking fee of £5. As a matter of interest the 2007 vignette is on sale from the 1st December 2006 and is valid until the 31st January 2008 (14 months).

To save time at the Swiss border you can buy them at the last service station before you get there.

It is Lake Garda, a very beutiful place.

Don


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## aultymer (Jun 20, 2006)

*Garda*

Hi Don, 
I was being a touch disingenuous with my question re Garda having spent a week there a couple of years ago. It is a truly lovely place and ,IMHO, much better than a lot of Switzerland. The cable car up Monte Baldo is a great trip and gives spectacular views of the lake. Almost directly across the lake from the cable car there is the village of Tremosine which is about 1000ft above the lake but only a few hundred yards back from it !! 
Don't try to go there up the (single track) gorge road - use the bus route.

If you are going to Italy don't miss Garda and don't be surprised if you don't get much farther.


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## DandM (Nov 7, 2006)

Many thanks for a very good read, love a "warts and all" account of a trip and its great for planning for the future.
Looking forward to the next episode


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## whistlinggypsy (May 1, 2005)

Don, I was talking to a sardeena chappie down the South of France a couple of months ago and he recommended Sardinia for the winter, reckoned the weather was on a pare with southern Spain, maybe a little more rain but certainly worth going too, any comments December to end of February.

Whats the expensive bit, getting there, campsite fee's, food and booze :?: is it a great deal more expensive than mainland Italy


Bob


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## Don_Madge (May 1, 2005)

Bob,

This is a trip we did two years ago. I'm not sure I would want to spend the winter there. I've been in touch with two ARV's who plan to spend some time there this winter, they are at present in Sicily.


TRAVEL TIPS SARDINIA APRIL 2004

We have just completed a 21 day 1150 mile tour of Sardinia and found it to be a motorcaravanners paradise (in July/August possibly hell). It's a
beautiful island with wild flowers particularly good at this time of the
year. The island has something to offer most tastes. Besides the beaches and mountains we visited an abandoned silver mine, a bronze age settlement and a marble quarry. It was also very nice to find so many churches open. Many stretches of road and cape areas are very scenic. In particular we found the drive from Bosa to Alghero and Cape D'orso well worth the effort.

There are some specific areas signed for parking of motorhomes (unlike back home). We found some areas where motorhomes were allowed to stay for up to 24 hours. In other areas we found signs banning motorhomes entirely It appears the law is often only enforced in the high season.

Sardinia is not a cheap option. Expect to pay up to 500 Euro for a return
ferry crossing. Cost of living is higher than back home. Camp sites are very expensive but these can be reduced by using camper services and free camping in the low season. There are many places to free/wild camp too many to list.

ROADS
In the main the roads are very good. Even the fairly minor roads are well
surfaced and wide enough for passing. In some villages, small towns and some areas of large towns the condition of the roads leave a lot to be desired. Usually the ring or through roads are OK. Other streets can be very narrow with very tight turns.

DIESEL.
Filling stations are plentiful but beware in the more remote regions their
opening hours could be 0700 - 1300 & 1700 - 2000 Hrs. In the large towns and on the main roads filling stations are usually open 0700 Hrs to 2200 Hrs. In April 2004 diesel cost between 92 & 98 Euro cents a litre.

LPG.
LPG is available in a very few places. We came across four sites selling it.
LPG is usually advertised as "Auto Gas" or GPL. By law the stations must be in non-residential ares and are usually in rural areas or on the town
outskirts. There is a guide listing all outlets that sell LPG in Italy.

CAMP SITES.
On the whole the camp sites seem geared to tenters and static caravans. The sites we checked out had very little room for large motorhomes. Most of them had a tank emptying and water filling points. Most of the tank draining areas were badly positioned for large motorhomes. Expect to pay between 15 - 25 Euro per night in the low season and between 30 - 40 Euro in the high season.

Camper Service Areas.
Many of these provide in addition to the basic service (tank emptying &
water tank filling) Parking, Electricity & Showers/Toilets solely for
motorhomes/campers. These are fairly simple areas but this is reflected in
the price. The most we paid was 10 Euro this included electricity &
showers/toilets. It is possibly more expensive in the high season. The areas are well signed all over the island. On the west coast we came across a couple signed as "Camper Sosta".

SUPERMARKETS.
Supermarkets are plentiful. Even the small village ones were well stocked.
They are well advertised and often well signed. Principal chains "Pick up",
ISA, Pellicano & SISA we found particularly good. All the bigger ones took
the "Plastic". Minus point you have to pay for the plastic bags (5-6 Euro
cents each). Opening hours on average 0800 - 1300 and 1700 - 2000. Mon to Sat. Possibly open 0800 - 1200 Sundays. Auchan Supermarkets can be found at Olbia (on the SS 125 south of Olbia), Cagliari and Sassari. We shopped in the Sassari (well signed of the SS 131 north of the city) one and it's a huge place. Parking is very tight. A seven metre motorhome could have problems parking. I think it would be a good idea with a large van to park in the goods area.

WATER.
One of the few drawbacks of the island is the shortage of water. A couple of years ago certain parts of the island were reduced to four hours running
water a day in the summer. We found a few springs in the mountain areas. There are most likely others but probably not many. There are very few public water supplies. So it's either filling stations or camper service areas.

BANKS.
Banks with ATM's are plentiful and well signed. Even the smaller villages
seem to have them.

INTERNET CONNECTIONS
We found there were a couple of Internet Points in most towns/cities we
visited, most were closed from 1300 hrs to 1700 hrs. The only ones we found open during these hours were the ones situated in bars/cafe. Expect to pay up to 6 Euro per hour. Most places had a minimum time use of ten minutes, all connections were very fast.

FERRIES.
As we were on our way home from wintering in Turkey we took the ferry from Igoumenitsi (Greece) to Ancona (Italy) then the Tirrenia Line ferry from Civitavecchia (north of Rome) to Olbia (Sardinia), We paid 250 Euro (that included a high season supplement as it was the day before Easter) for an overnight crossing with a two berth cabin. The ship was old and the cabin and other onboard facilities left a lot to be desired.

We crossed from Sardinia (St Teresa Gullura) to Corsica (Bonifacio) with the Saremar Line for 67 Euro. Crossing time one hour. Moby Line do the same crossing but are more expensive.

I spoke with a Dutchman (car & caravan) and a German (seven metre Hymer) who had both bought a package from Corsica Ferries for the return crossings from Livorno to Bastia and Bonifacio to St Teresa Gullura. Both paid under 500 Euro for two return crossings. Both drove the East Coast Corsican route from Bastia to Bonifacio with no problems at all.


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