# Best Lighting for a Private Road/Drive please?



## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

Any Street lighting experts in?

Or Anyone know the best lighting for a private drive?

I want a lamp I can keep on long term, say for working on / unloading the van (Sometimes overnight). Another for intruders, so flood lamp.

So 

SON? 
HID? 
Metal Halide?
Halogen?

Anything new on the market?

Any advice please?

TM


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## pippin (Nov 15, 2007)

The local authority around Aberystwyth has fitted some fantastic LED street lights.

They are very well focussed and don't spill light except downwards.

They hardly detract from the night sky yet illuminate the road/pavement perfectly.

I shudder to think of the cost!


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

I happen to have a sodium street light TM................. going very cheap but it's heavy.

Ray.


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*Ferries*



raynipper said:


> I happen to have a sodium street light TM................. going very cheap but it's heavy.
> 
> Ray.


Thanks Ray,

You are in France and I have fallen out with Brittany Ferries.

Trev.


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

I would suggest the same sort of lamp (SON?) as the Council use, as they will doubtless be the cheapest to run (which has to be a consideration if its on all night!!)


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## GEMMY (Jun 19, 2006)

Tm, whatever system you choose, make sure the one at the bottom of the drive is angled up towards your friendly neighbour 8) 

tony


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

Metal halide will wipe the floor with the others for light output and colour. OK so sodium are cheap to run - but the light colour is awful.

I have a 150w halide floodlight in the yard and it outperforms the 1000w halogen that preceded it. You can also choose the colour of the light by using different bulbs form a sodium yellow thro reds, blues and spectacular whites. They take about three minutes to warm up and you can't turn them back on after switching off until they've cooled but if you want a constant light that just isn't a problem.

Just take care who knows you're buying them however, they're the No1 choice for cannabis growers. :wink:


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## joedenise (Jul 20, 2007)

you could also use a fluorescent lamp 

joe


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

how long is the drive, does it have trees or bushes or a wall or hedge.
what size area for loading etc, does it need to be secure from vandals.
do you need light at the start of the drive.

cabby


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*drive*



cabby said:


> how long is the drive, does it have trees or bushes or a wall or hedge.
> what size area for loading etc, does it need to be secure from vandals.
> do you need light at the start of the drive.
> 
> cabby


The drive area is 150 feet long
Yes, needs to be fairly secure. Not that big an issue
No, Don't need light at the start

My idea was to get a main big flood for longer hours use (The working under/overnight). Along with a smaller flood (that can react quicker - instant on/off) Underneath.

So say a 70w Metal Halide with a Halogen flood under/next to that.

TM


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

*Re: drive*



teemyob said:


> So say a 70w Metal Halide with a Halogen flood under/next to that.
> 
> TM


Personally I'd use a 150w halide (or even two 150w) on a drive that size, but it's difficult to decide exactly what you do need without seeing the area you need to illuminate, as a guide a 150w will perform rather better than a 1000w halogen. Use 6000k white bulbs for best effect.
Shame you're a distance away from me, I've got several large floodlights hanging around that you could try, I should have a pair of 70w halides somewhere but I'm blowed if I can remember what I did with them. :? I also have a pair of 2000w halogens in the shed, they'll not only scare the intruders, they'll give them a suntan too. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Just tried to 'edit' my post but too late.

I have just checked TM and the lamp I have is an Osram High Pressure Sodium SON-T 250 watt.

Ray.


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## Patrick_Phillips (Aug 17, 2006)

For reliability and ease of use, I still think the old PAR38 are a good bet outside in a domestic setting.
The one I wouldn't touch (literally and figuratively) is halogen. Very unreliable in my book.

Patrick


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## DTPCHEMICALS (Jul 24, 2006)

I use two son in the garden ,120 feet in length. Replacement bulbs can be expensive . Two pir operated halogen 150 WATT on the front .Always seem to be replacing bulbs in those.
Dave p


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Patrick_Phillips said:


> For reliability and ease of use, I still think the old PAR38 are a good bet outside in a domestic setting.
> The one I wouldn't touch (literally and figuratively) is halogen. Very unreliable in my book. Patrick


Ha ha, we used PAR 38 spots in our old kitchen. My wife kept asking for another to illuminate various corners. In the end we had 7 or 8 that regularly melted connections and switches.

But they did heat the kitchen well.!! Still have some............ somewher??

Ray.


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## Patrick_Phillips (Aug 17, 2006)

raynipper said:


> Ha ha, we used PAR 38 spots in our old kitchen. My wife kept asking for another to illuminate various corners. In the end we had 7 or 8 that regularly melted connections and switches.
> 
> But they did heat the kitchen well.!! Still have some............ somewher??
> 
> Ray.


 We are talking about the same thing??? Never thought of them as a possible for inside a house!


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*Lights*



raynipper said:


> Just tried to 'edit' my post but too late.
> 
> I have just checked TM and the lamp I have is an Osram High Pressure Sodium SON-T 250 watt.
> 
> Ray.


Thanks Ray,

If I am passing, shall pop in.

TM


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*mind*

Here a couple that spring to mind.

RS Components way too expensive.

eBay and CPC around same prices.

Price excludes bulbs.

TM


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Patrick_Phillips said:


> raynipper said:
> 
> 
> > Ha ha, we used PAR 38 spots in our old kitchen. My wife kept asking for another to illuminate various corners. In the end we had 7 or 8 that regularly melted connections and switches.
> ...


Yes Patrick.
Same lamps. They were screw in spots and we had a 'track' across the kitchen ceiling where you could position as many as you liked. Sadly our needs were greater than the integrity of the supplying equipment.

Ray.


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

*Re: mind*



teemyob said:


> Here a couple that spring to mind.
> Price excludes bulbs.
> 
> TM


They look about right to me and the price is competitive.

Bulbs cost from around £10 depending on colour and spec. Best to buy without bulbs as if included they're usually about 4000K whereas I'd recommend 6000K as being more suitable for what you want.



raynipper said:


> Ha ha, we used PAR 38 spots in our old kitchen.
> But they did heat the kitchen well.!!


I know what you mean Ray, by modern standards PAR38 bulbs are prohibitively expensive to operate ----------- but they're great for warming your hands on. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Patrick_Phillips (Aug 17, 2006)

*Re: mind*



gaspode said:


> I know what you mean Ray, by modern standards PAR38 bulbs are prohibitively expensive to operate ----------- but they're great for warming your hands on. :lol: :lol: :lol:


You may laugh but PAR38 will keep going through the life of a dozen of you new-fangled halogen and halides! And they are cheap to buy so when you add all that up they still make sense especially where they are only being used occasionally! 
Thats why they are still around...
So there!
Patrick :idea: :idea:


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

You have a valid point Patrick, it never makes economic sense to spend too much on low energy solutions if the pay-back period is excessive - although the tree-huggers (sorry - environmentalists) would argue rather differently I suspect. :wink: 

I used PAR bulbs for many years, indeed I still have a couple in use on a PIR system where instantaneous light is critical. But for floodlighting that is left on for long periods, halide or sodium are far superior in terms of light output per watt and halide can also provide a very natural colour at low operating cost.

I doubt there is much difference in bulb life between PAR and halide, I've certainly gone through a few PAR bulbs in my time. I understand that halide bulb life is more dependent on the number of starts rather than operating hours, hence it's more suitable for floodlights with long "on" periods whereas PAR or halogen much more practical for frequent on/off use.


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*Trouble*

Well, I can't seem to find any outdoor PAR floodlights!.

I have seen a floor spike.

TM


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