# Rustproofing - definitive guide/best practise reccommend



## Smokeyjoe (Nov 30, 2009)

Help - we have a new motorhome and are anxious to do the right thing. We've uncovered two companies called Rustbuster, one called Rustmaster, and one or two others who also seem 'big' in the motorhome world. We've also - unless the name is being used generically - uncovered at least two different types of Waxoyl, the regular stuff, and Waxoyl Professional (the former looks as if it may be marketed under the Hammerite brand now) plus many different grades of Dinitrol. _(Forgive this aside here, but many motorhomers inadvertently don't help, by giving advice and not being specific and perhaps using the term like we use 'hoover'.)_ Anyway, my problem is in deciding which products/company to use; some people don't seem to include spraying in doors, some say (I think it's the 'Professional', which sounded like a water based product), that you can sleep in your van immediately. I just want to get the best product; sleeping and to some extent cost, are not issues. It's not a straightforward choice, as some previous posts seem to say. The complexity of products in what is clearly a highly competitive, almost cutthroat market is confusing and I get the impression many MH'ers buy in ignorance.
Thanks, and apologies to any companies whose products or services I may wish to use!!!


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## ingram (May 12, 2005)

I can't really give you an 'answer' but can make some observations which may help.

Not sure exactly what you are planning but as the body of your coachbuilt motohome will not be made of metal the only parts possibly needing 'rustproofing' will be the base vehicle cab parts and chassis, unless it is an 'A' class and then even the cab area wont be metal.

In my experience, and I'm not an expert, Waxoyl is generally used for 'cavities'; say, inside chassis rails and doors and sills.

Products for 'undersealing' are usually more solid and not 'gloopy' like Waxoyl. Waxoyl do make a black 'underseal' type of stuff ( forget the name but have some in the garage ) and you can also buy a 'Shultz' type for spraying under wheel arches etc.

I have never used Dinitrol so can't comment on that.

I think that most vehicles these days are well protected against rust at the manufacturing stage and probably don't need much extra protection: at least I would hope they are ( someone is going to mention all those rusty Merc Sprinters you see about )  

I wouldn't spend hundreds of pounds having any of my vehicles 'rust protected' .......... I did buy a used car some years ago which had been 'rust protected' by a company which is now long gone. When investigating why the doors were rusting, from the inside, out, about half way up, I discovered that they were full of water because the 'undersealers' had sprayed inside the doors and blocked the drain holes!

Harvey


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## Smokeyjoe (Nov 30, 2009)

ingram said:


> I can't really give you an 'answer' but can make some observations which may help.
> 
> Not sure exactly what you are planning but as the body of your coachbuilt motohome will not be made of metal the only parts possibly needing 'rustproofing' will be the base vehicle cab parts and chassis, unless it is an 'A' class and then even the cab area wont be metal.
> 
> ...


Thanks Harvey,
This is our first motorhome (Ford) and I think it'll be our last; put a lot of effort into choosing the right one, and plan to keep it a long long time! Firstly, I was shocked to see how they are made; having restored a 1933 Austin tourer, I'm well used to seeing timber in cars, but was unprepared for acres of plywood under this van with what looks like just a thin black dye based finish. I can only hope it's marine grade and that this must be fine, as it's well proven. There is some hard undersealing randomly spread on the chassis members, but it's not comprehensive and most exposed rails are just left in the factory finish paint, with rust discolouration starting to appear on the external corners of the metal where the paint film is thinnest, and at the joints - it's only just discernible, but it's there.
I understand care must be taken with doors, so a good reason for leaving them or ensuring good drainage before deciding. To be honest, I'm dissapointed not to see the hard underseal we have on our Fabia, and planned to have the same treatment on our MX5, which is a potential rustbox. I think I'll probably regard this exercise as a failure and just make a non-objective decision and go for the cheapest, remembering that you can soon replace a door, but it's the chassis that could be terminal!


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## DTPCHEMICALS (Jul 24, 2006)

For what it is worth,
I sell products to industry. Metal protective coatings wd Aerosol underseals and drotective wax.etc.

My view is after many years is that I have not undersealed our mh.
It is comming up to 6 years pold.
It is as clean underneath as on top.
I pressure wash the wheel arches if we have been on muddy fields. Clean out the wheel arch lips with a soft paint brush
The only bit that has a wax protection is the recently fitted tow bar as rust came thro the waxoyl.

I think i have 20 litres of waxoyl in stock with an aplicator.
You can have it free if you collect it.

Others will have different opinions and rightly so.

Clive will tell you to use your old paint.
Do a search and you will find this suject covered.

Cheers

Dave p


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## Smokeyjoe (Nov 30, 2009)

DTPCHEMICALS said:


> For what it is worth,
> I sell products to industry. Metal protective coatings wd Aerosol underseals and drotective wax.etc.
> 
> My view is after many years is that I have not undersealed our mh.
> ...


hi Dave, thanks for much valued thoughts; I too worked in paints/industrial coatings, and great to have your experience. It was only in frustration having read just about all the posts that I voiced my frustration. I think i'm going to have it done for a bit more peace of mind if nothing else, and probably go for the old fashioned white spirit based Waxoyl.


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## DTPCHEMICALS (Jul 24, 2006)

If there was a best of all product there would only be one on the market.

Cheers

dave p


I do spray copper grease onto nuts and bolts and along the brake pipes


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## paddyp (Dec 14, 2009)

*autobild*



DTPCHEMICALS said:


> If there was a best of all product there would only be one on the market.


Not true the price factor, ease of application (see below) and marketing budget will always mean that there will be a variety of products on sale.

German magazine autobild sprayed steel box that simulated the construction of car sills with salt water over 3 years to test cavity sealants.

Winner was german product called mike sanders something or other but apparently needs to be applied at 120 celcius(!) and special scutz gun as its viscous even then, second was some kind
of animal fat I think (translation is dodgy), third a henkel terosan wax.

Heres what they said about the rest...

"Similarly, satisfactory to the waxes of Waxoyl, Berner and Makra
(all). Only the edges rust is already further advanced than in
Teroson. In Tectyl, Holts and 3M broke the wax layers on even a large surface, the flanges rusted heavily. Reason: As soon as the solvents are evaporated to dry the surfaces of these waxes, brittle and cracked like a dried-clay soil. Moisture and salt can seep freely through the resulting cracks in the sheet metal. More than a "poor" is not there.
Also the performance of liquid oils, such as fluid film and Owatrol
disappointed. They are distributed in contrast to growth, although
well in the box like, but in the long run either on land or in the
corners and edges. In addition, condensation washes the oils away
again."

In our experience waxoyl also cracks and on hot days stinks and runs out or cavities but its cheap, widely available and easy to apply.


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