# Adria Twin External Vapour Gas Tank Fit



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

This is the second modification to my Adria Twin. Fitting an under-slung gas tank and removing the Calor bottles. As with the previous fresh water tank drain modification this is how I did it, there may be better ways. Total cost about £450 and it took a couple of days, but I did dither about a bit to make sure I got it right.

List of parts:
Filler point
30l 200mm x 1052mm Gas Tank
Quantity gauge
Bunch of clips
Quantity Sender
Two Vent Collars
8mm Compression Fitting for tank valve
7M Copper Pipe. You will need to confirm that this is the heavy duty high pressure pipe when ordering. I am sure it is, but it's best check.

Pair of Stainless Steel Straps
8mm Adapter to fit truma regulator
High Pressure Foot Mounted Ball Valve. 52754
1Metre 30mm Vent hose
Boot for Straight Filler

4 metres of 2 core wire about .75mm square and the necessary connections for the quantity sender and indicator. I also used an in line blade fuse holder for the power supply which I tapped off the 12v outlet above the table.
Four stainless steel 12mm bolts, washers and lock nuts for the tank straps. Can't remember the length, but this will change depending on where the holes are drilled and washers etc.

I think that's everything.

Being a panel van, I could not find a way of keeping the high pressure gas pipe out of the living space when fitting the fill point. This means that this pipe must be shrouded in the 30mm plastic pipe terminated with the vent collars with the straight rubber boot which fits over the back of the fill point. This shrouded pipe must be vented to outside at both ends.

I chose to use 8mm copper pipe for the tank fill line instead of the flexible JIC pipe which means it takes slightly longer to fill (about a couple of minutes from empty) If you use a JIC pipe, a different fill point will be required (or maybe an adapter) 
I also chose not to fit the regulator on the outlet of the tank. I took the high pressure gas pipe back to the original Truma Secu Motion regulator in the gas locker. I did this because I had two Secu Motion regulators (one spare) and didn't want to waste them. Also it means that the original gas system remains unchanged. It is possible to fit a different type of Truma regulator directly to the tank which will allow the use of gas whilst traveling, but these are fairly big regulators. Or if you are not bothered about using gas whilst on the move, any 37mb regulator is OK. If I had fitted a regulator directly to the tank, I would have taken this low pressure pipe into the cupboard under the sink and tee'd into the gas pipes there. Chris at Autogas 2000 will be able to supply the correct regulators and dispense some good advice. A very helpful chap.

Remove the water tank because one of the tank straps is fitted directly beneath it. In this photo you can just about see the rear hole of the right tank strap drilled through the black steel floor bracket. The front hole is just drilled through the floor but still within the water tank bay. You can see the large hole towards the rear of the water tank bay with one of the vent collars fitted from underneath ready for the fill pipe and 30mm shroud.









For the left tank strap mounting holes, I cut the floor covering and carefully peeled it back and drilled a hole with a 30mm hole cutter down to the van steel floor. Then drill a 13mm hole through the van steel floor.









Here's the holes ready for the tank straps under the van.









Fill point from inside.









And from outside.









Tank straps bolted in and tank offered up.









The fill line fitted inside the 30mm plastic shroud which is vented at both ends. At the fill point end the shroud is connected to the large rubber boot fixed to the back of the fill point via the vent collar which is fixed to the plywood blank. The shroud is connected to the floor vent collar at the other end. The fill line is totally enclosed and isolated from the living area and vented.









Under the van, the fill line passes through the vent collar and connects to the tank. You can see the quantity indicator wiring strapped to the pipe with stand-offs. I fed the indicator wiring through the same hole as the bathroom sink waste pipe in the fresh water tank bay.









Quantity indicator. Power supply spliced into the 12v outlet wiring via the in line blade fuse holder. All wiring stuffed behind the panel and the wires to the tank pass down into the water tank bay.









The gas out pipe bent round and runs in the same slot as the handbrake rod through the gap in the grey water tank. I protected the gas pipe by passing it through a thick flexible plastic pipe where it runs through the gap in the tank.









Other end of the grey water tank (spare wheel removed) you will see the pipe passing up into the gas locker.









Inside the gas locker.









And connected to the ball valve and regulator (with adapter)









And finally, I plugged the holes in the floor then stuck the floor covering back down. Hope i never have to remove the tank brackets :!:









Took the van to a local installer to have it checked then off to the garage to fill it. Leak checked ok and used for the first time last weekend


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## DiscoDave (Aug 25, 2008)

Great post! Thank you.


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## spatz1 (May 19, 2011)

Nice job :wink: 

autogas 2000 also do a 9 led tank guage that is increadably acurate and a must fit...

do i see a gas issolation tap on the tank rather than an electric issolator because i ve been after one for a bit to save the 12w the electric one uses on my tank :?: (10 ah overnight just to keep the gas on  )


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

spatz1 said:


> Nice job :wink:
> 
> autogas 2000 also do a 9 led tank guage that is increadably acurate and a must fit...
> 
> do i see a gas issolation tap on the tank rather than an electric issolator because i ve been after one for a bit to save the 12w the electric one uses on my tank :?: (10 ah overnight just to keep the gas on  )


Thanks. 
Yes, it's a good old manual shut off. My aim with any project is to keep it simple and I can shut off the gas at the regulator for ferries etc. 
Your shut off seems to draw a fair bit of power. I was assured that the current electric isolators (yours might be different) only used any real amps when initially energized, then a tiny amount to keep it open/shut. I still went for the manual though.


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## spatz1 (May 19, 2011)

did the manual gas tank valve come from autogas ?....they didnt seem to stock one to sell me when i phoned the other day...


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

The valve came from Here


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## spatz1 (May 19, 2011)

cant thank you enough for that information....thankyou


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

NTG said:


> Total cost about £450 and it took a couple of days, but I did dither about a bit to make sure I got it right.


Just out of curiosity, did you get a quote from Autgas for them to fit it all?

I only ask as it is something we're considering in order to A, save space and B, to keep any weight as low as possibe.

I'd consider a self fit if only my sticky out lump could get under the van


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Hi Kev_n_Liz'

No I didn't get any quotes. I like to do things in my own way and I know it's done well (not that Autogas wouldn't do a good job). You could cut the cost by not using stainless steel straps and fittings, fit a regulator on the tank and use cheaper low pressure pipe but these are all compromises in my opinion. I would be interested to know what it costs though.

Ive got one of those lumps too..........and it's getting bigger!


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

:lol: :lol: when's your's due then.

I normally frown on gas DIY, but you at least seem to know what you're doing (hopefully)


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## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> :lol: :lol: when's your's due then.
> 
> I normally frown on gas DIY, but you at least seem to know what you're doing (hopefully)


That's not a bad thing in some cases. If you have a chat with Autogas they can tell you some horror stories about some of the DIY jobs they have seen.

However, a bit of research on regulation and safety, basic engineering skills, the correct (decent quality) tools combined with some common sense and your done. Always have your work checked too. We all make mistakes.


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