# Heki 3 removal.



## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Just returned to our Kontiki 669 and found that in our absence, there's water dripping through the Heki over the rear bed. I guess ideally it needs to come out to be re-sealed but that's where I'm starting to lose the plot.

I've found this link for installation http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...z0cxefyfpf0g-TkGA&sig2=ls8MuoBGk7HD_DwVjUaa-A but am struggling to work in reverse.

Can anyone offer up a quick blow by blow method as to how to remove the Heki 3?

Thanks guys.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I've only even had the Heki 2, but I imagine fitting isn't too different, shine a torch through those perforations, if you see screws then that's the access point for them usually, the instructions point to that, a dinner knife will (gently) flip them out then it should, with those instructions for reference be fairly obvious.

Apart from the electical/mechanical bits it is just a big squarish clamp.

So, Remove perforations, remove the screws which will release the inner cover and blinds in a one unit, and the coloured mounting blocks, these do two jobs, when fitting they pull the outer part down onto the sealant, they then provide a pace to screw the inner cover to.

Just be careful, as they are quite brittle some times when exposed to the sun, also have something to keep your hands clean so you don't spread the mastic/sealant everywhere.

It's a fairly easy job, just beware of over tightening the screw on the mounting blocks, it's only plastic and they're designed to allow the mastic to fill the void, not to be a rigid fit to the roof.


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Kev, a big


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Although I haven't removed the Heki for now, I know now how to do it as and when.

Just to add what Kev has mentioned above - remove the side grills on the inner frame and two screws either side will be revealed. Undo these four screws and the inner frame will unclip from the outer. Note that the winding handle does not have to be removed as it will come a way with the inner frame.

I checked the mounting of the blocks that hold the outer frame as these are now visible with the inner frame removed. I noticed that some of the screws that hold the outer frame to the blocks weren't done up enough and the flanged heads of the screws were not contacting the blocks. Tightened these until contact was made with the blocks but not over tightening in case of damage to the blocks. 

Checked the % damp of the wooden frame and all around was 6-8% so it looks like we caught this leak in time. For now, I've cleaned up the roof area and run a bead of non setting mastic all the way round. If this doesn't stop any future leaks, together with tightening the outer frame, then I'll take the whole assembly out and start again.

Once again, many thanks Kev. I'm now a master of the Heki 3 lol.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

deefordog said:


> Although I haven't removed the Heki for now, I know now how to do it as and when.
> 
> Just to add what Kev has mentioned above - remove the side grills on the inner frame and two screws either side will be revealed. Undo these four screws and the inner frame will unclip from the outer. Note that the winding handle does not have to be removed as it will come a way with the inner frame.
> 
> ...


Don't worry about damaging the blocks, it the screw holes in the outer frame which can't be fixed easily (possible expensive new outer frame and perspex) the block can be got easily as all Hekis old and new use the same method, mine came with black blocks which were too short, so I got blue ones, made the world of difference to how it clamped up, like any sealant it needs to be a minimum thickness to work, clamping too tight will effectively squeeze it all out leaving just plastic to roof contact with no seal.


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