# Replacing the starter battery



## 89468 (May 24, 2005)

The starter battery on my RV has given up the ghost and I need to source a replacement. However, this seems easier said than done. The manual states that the manufacturer supplied battery is a Delco Freedom sealed top, maintenance free unit rated at 690 CCA with 115 minutes reserve capacity. The size is given as 10.22" long, 6.77" wide and 7.22" high.

For some unknown reason, the battery that is actually fitted, which was in it from new, is an Interstate Mega-Tron, unsealed.

I've spoken to my local truck parts dealer and he says that a battery with that kind of rating is usually much larger in size. None of the batteries he stocks (and he stocks a very wide range) can deliver that kind of a CCA from a unit of those dimensions. The only batteries he has that match the spec are truck batteries which are about 20" long.

Does anyone know where I can get a suitable replacement? I'm living in the Midlands, near to Peterborough.


----------



## zaskar (Jun 6, 2005)

Well, I know it's stating the bl**din obvious, but have you tried ringing round the dealers? I know a great deal can be sourced elsewhere for cheaper but in the case of batteries, your looking for something to turn over a 6.5ltr V8? There aren't many British/European vehicles with a lump like that in them.
I've had replacement Delco's off TravelWorld and didn't think the price was all that bad.


----------



## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi

Try this company for information , they are one of the biggest suppliers of batteries in the UK . and supply nearly any type / size of battery . 
They have an email enquiry form 
www.powercell.co.uk


----------



## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

Hi *Gewitty*. Quite some time ago we replaced the battery from our old 1988 Coachmen with one from a local battery supplier in Luton. It was a 65ah suitable for vans and worked a treat. Never struggled to start and cost £63. :wink:


----------



## 89468 (May 24, 2005)

Thanks to everyone for the replies and ideas. Having drawn a blank with local battery suppliers, I contacted my RV dealer. They were amazed that the original American battery had lasted as long as four years! Their opinion of US made batteries seem pretty low. They told me that they have even had brand new imported RV's arrive off the boat which won't start as the batteries have failed.

Anyway, they gave me an alternative which they always fit to the big rigs. This is the Exide 072. I sourced one from a local truck parts dealer and it works a treat. They even sold it to me at trade price! I had to fit terminal adaptors, as the RV has spade connectors, rather than the traditional British post type. Once that was done, the beast roared into life and away we went.

Now all I have to do is get it through its MOT. Apparently, since this is done at an HGV station, the test is fairly stringent. Fingers crossed.


----------



## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

Gewitty said:


> Now all I have to do is get it through its MOT. Apparently, since this is done at an HGV station, the test is fairly stringent. Fingers crossed.


  Hi *Gewitty*. It's not necessary to take it to an HGV test station only. Any MOT station capable of doing a Class 4 should be able to accomodate you. Just ring round and tell them the weight of your RV. I normally go to the local VOSA for my tests until I found an MOT tester closer to home and without all the aggro. Just a thought. :wink:


----------



## zaskar (Jun 6, 2005)

Gewitty said:


> Now all I have to do is get it through its MOT. Apparently, since this is done at an HGV station, the test is fairly stringent. Fingers crossed.


As JSW has said, you don't need to use a HGV specific station. See if you can find your local council depot. They have to cope with bin wagons and mobile libraries etc so an RV will be no problem. I always use Gorton (Manchester) and have had no problems. The good thing about this type of place is that although you have to book ahead, they dont do repair work on the publics vehicles so they've no axe to grind


----------



## 88724 (May 9, 2005)

CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is a function of plate *surface area*, not the actual battery size.

Virtually any truck battery as a CCA of 650 plus even the tiny ones.


----------



## 89468 (May 24, 2005)

Thanks for the tips on getting an MOT done. Unfortunately, having spent the morning on the phone to all the testing stations I could find in my area, I still ended up with the VOSA HGV station as my only option. All the others said that they were not equipped to deal with a 30', 7.5 tonne RV. I'm OK about that, but my only concern is that I hear they are very hot on brake efficiency and my rig has a parking brake that acts directly on the prop shaft. It's just been overhauled and has had new shoes fitted, but the mechanic made some pessimistic noises about it getting through the test, even though it is currently working to its maximum capability. I took it out yesterday and stopped on a couple of hills, applied the parking brake and shifted into neutral. The thing stayed perfectly still, so it seems to do its job OK. I could easily overcome the brake if I shifted into Drive and tried to pull away, but with an 8.1 litre engine, I guess that's no surprise. I suppose it all depends on the force they apply when its on the rollers during the test.


----------



## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

Gewitty said:


> my only concern is that I hear they are very hot on brake efficiency and my rig has a parking brake that acts directly on the prop shaft. It's just been overhauled and has had new shoes fitted, but the mechanic made some pessimistic noises about it getting through the test, even though it is currently working to its maximum capability. I took it out yesterday and stopped on a couple of hills, applied the parking brake and shifted into neutral. The thing stayed perfectly still, so it seems to do its job OK.


  Hi *Gewitty*. It only requires to be able to get 16% to pass. If you explain beforehand that you have a transmission brake? They may suggest the best way to apply the brake while testing it. I have taken several RV's now for MOT and VOSA. They have always listened to my explanation and taken care when testing the Park Brake (not an handbrake). My Gulfstream passed with flying colours the other day, after failing on a loose top shocker mounting (1/32 to tighten) and Wiper blades. :roll:


----------



## zaskar (Jun 6, 2005)

Gewitty said:


> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, but my only concern is that I hear they are very hot on brake efficiency and my rig has a parking brake that acts directly on the prop shaft. ...................


I'm gonna shout now cos this is important mate!
DO NOT ALLOW THE TESTER TO TEST A HANDBRAKE OF THIS TYPE ON THE ROLLERS!!!!!!!!!
Using this method can cause severe damage to the drive train.
The correct method to test propshaft handbrakes, both mechanically applied and electro/hydraulic like mine, is to have the vehicel on flat ground, apply the handbrake at rest and then try to pull away with the handbrake still applied. Thats how the council depot has tested both my RV's over the past 7 years and they've never moved or failed.
I'm somewhat surprised to here that you've had new drum shoes already on such a new vehicle as compared to the wheel brakes, the prop drum brake shoes get little wear. They're more likely to seize from lack of use in which case it should simply be a case of strip/clean/lubricate/rebuild?


----------



## 89468 (May 24, 2005)

"The correct method to test propshaft handbrakes, both mechanically applied and electro/hydraulic like mine, is to have the vehicel on flat ground, apply the handbrake at rest and then try to pull away with the handbrake still applied. "


Interesting. But the problem is that I CAN pull away with the brake engaged. As I said, an 8.1 litre engine can easily overcome a prop shaft brake. That's what I think happened to damage the pads in the first place. I believe that the previous owner must have driven it with the brake on at some stage, as the shoes showed all the signs of having been burned when we took them out.

So now what do I do? I don't understand how the roller test could damage the drive train, as long as it's in neutral at the time. Or am I way off about that?


----------



## pepe (May 9, 2005)

HI The ministry testing stations can test the propshaft brake as they have up to date equipment mine was tested last August , the normal handbrake wasn't so good as this never gets used but it did pass. got 2 starter batteries from Halfords calcium type same size as originals £60 each.


----------



## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

This is what I said:-

_The Roller Test can cause undue stress on the transmission even when in Neutral. That's why the prop shaft has to be removed if on tow._


----------



## olley (May 1, 2005)

[quote="johnsandywhite
The Roller Test can cause undue stress on the transmission even when in Neutral. That's why the prop shaft has to be removed if on tow.[/quote]

The propshaft is removed on tow to protect the autobox not the trans brake.

I would think it unlikely that any damage would occur when on the rollers, drive trains are very strong, and the same forces are applied when you use the gears to slow you down when descending a hill.

Olley


----------



## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

olley said:


> The propshaft is removed on tow to protect the autobox not the trans brake.
> 
> I would think it unlikely that any damage would occur when on the rollers, drive trains are very strong, and the same forces are applied when you use the gears to slow you down when descending a hill.
> 
> Olley


 8O I didn't mean the Transmission Brake. I thought I said the Transmission? 8O

 However. The very first test I ever took with VOSA 5 years ago. Nearly finished up with the old Coachmen acting like a Bucking Bronco. Not a very nice experience I can tell you. Since then? I explain, and no further problems. :wink:


----------



## olley (May 1, 2005)

Hi JSW sorry my eyesight again :lol: The reason for the bucking bronco is that with a transmission brake if one of the rear wheels loose's grip then because of the the diff action the other wheel forces it to go backwards, we used to get this on landrovers.

olley


----------



## 89468 (May 24, 2005)

This topic wandered a bit. Starting with my battery replacement problem and then discussing the issues of getting brakes tested during an MOT. 

Well, I took the rig for its test this morning. I used the ministry VOSA station in Peterborough as nowhere else locally could handle a vehicle of this size. When the guys at the station first saw it, they scratched their heads for a bit, but then got stuck in and gave it a thorough going-over. All went well until they went down the pit to examine the underside and steering. They spotted the transmission brake and had a long debate about how to test it. In the end, they opted not to use the rollers. They checked the main brakes by placing some sort of a meter on the floor of the RV, then drove it down a test lane and hit the brakes. This gave them a percentage reading, which was OK. To test the parking/emergency brake, they reversed the rig up a 16% slope, put the brake on and waited to see what happened. There were a few creaks and groans, but the thing stayed put, so that was OK too. 

Eventually, I got the new cert and must say that I came away with the feeling that I can drive with confidence after such a rigorous inspection. I can also confirm that the guys at the test station were extremely professional and friendly, explaining every step of the inspection and guiding me through the whole process without a hitch.


----------

