# The road to Morocco....



## peejay

With apologies to Bob, Bing and Dorothy....

_*"Just like Websters Dictionary, we're Morocco bound".....*_

Rather than bore you with what we had for breakfast every day etc etc, here's quick resume of the first leg down to Spain. Wifi courtesy of McD wifi near Irun, i'm posting this while Judy is spending our hard earned in the Auchan next door....

Set off on a fresh Wednesday morning towards Eurotunnel, stopping off for lunch at Birch hanger Green services on the M11 for a KFC as we usually do. I love Kentucky but this one wasn't the best i've had so shan't be missing it for the next four months.
The rest of the journey was uneventful and thankfully the weather was dry and sunny.
Pulled up at the Tunnel and the nifty Number Plate recognition welcomed us straight away and asked if we wanted to catch the earlier 1750 crossing, of course we did. Straight off the other end onto the Calais aire for a quiet nights kip aided by a few glasses of Vin Rouge from Auchan.

Our loose route for this stage.....

A16 - Boulogne, D901 - Abbeville, A28 - Rouen, N154 - Evreux - Dreux - Chartres, N10/910 - Tours - Poitiers, N10 - Angouleme - Bordeaux, A630/A63/N10/N810 to Spanish border.

Stoppovers on the way down.....

Pont De L'Arche - just south of Rouen, nice little free aire overlooking the river and a quick walk to the town. A bit of road noise from the nearby bridge but nothing to worry about. 5 vans here for the night.

Esvres Sur Indre - used this aire before, located on the outskirts of the town. Spent the night alone, lovely and quiet but very cold.

Nersac - Lovely little aire in walled area behind the quaint little town, all servs free inc electric. 5 vans here for the night, very cold overnight again.

Messanges Plage - Free parking area (no facs) behind the dunes on the Atlantic coast, spent the night alone and had a dusting of snow overnight.

Then a short drive through into Spain where we are parked for the night at Hondarribia in the 'unnofficial' car park overlooking the sea with a handful of other vans. Rained all night, but at least its getting warmer.

Fuel so far has cost between €1.37 to €1.40 per litre from various supermarkets on the way down.

Topped up the Gaslows at a services near Bordeaux at 90c per litre, had to tell a little white lie when asked whether it was for cooking or not and explained it was 'pour le moteur'. Good job I moved the filler to the outside before we left, if she had seen the bottles a refusal would have been a certainty.

Aires/parking costs so far €0

Toll charges so far €0 unless you count £2 for the Dartford crossing.

Distance so far 1450km.

Next instalment, unless we get wifi sooner, should be when we get down to Algeciras for the ferry to Morocco....

Pete


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## bognormike

have a great time Pete, we're heading across tomorrow, but not as far as you, and not for as long! Hope it gets warmer (and drier!) soon 8)


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## Hydrocell

Have a great tip Pete, wish I was there to never mine only six weeks to go, ferry’s booked can’t wait.
One other thing before I go, can you update me on the progress of the toll on the A63 have they started yet.

Regards
Ray


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## Detourer

Hi Pete

Re our earlier PM's……..

It looks like your schedule may have you around Algerciras on the 3/4th March. If so give us a call and perhaps link-up with our group for the ferry crossing …….. [genuine ferry tickets]…then do your own thing!

Ray


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## jedi

Keep us informed, Pete.

I've booked my crossing to Calais for March 26th (£24.00 with myferrylink  )

Intend to take a couple of weeks wandering down to Algeciras.

Jed


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## peejay

Weather was crap today, heavy snow on route, now in the snowy carpark at Vitoria Gastez for the night. Couldn't be bothered to go further.

Ray, The A63/N10 is still free, supposed to be going toll in June I think, some parts look nowhere finished yet though.

Ray (DD), Thanks, i'll keep an eye out for you when we get down there.

Jed, good price, mine cost nowt apart from Judy spending a fortune via Tesco PLC.

Off for a wander into town.

Pete


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## oldtart

Great to hear you're on your way, Pete. Do keep the posts when possible. Looking forward to reading them.

Val


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## merctoby

*hi! pete ,*

Hi ! pete, 

Just reading your grand tour with interest , 
We are heading out at the end of june so a while to go!, Cannot wait. 
What wi,fi, are you using . We travelled last year and had terrible trouble with with internet , Bought a dongle while abroad vodofone we thought would be good , But turned into a nightmare , I presume you are using a brit dongle ? . 
Is your wi,fi, for all over europe ? . Looking for some thing better this time , 
How much is the cost, !!! . 
sorry to break up your travels with this that i ask , .
Will be reading up on your travels with interest pete , No fear then mate !
All the best pete , 
denton.


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## peejay

No secrets, just using a combination of McD wifi and my kindle. I dont go out of my way to get it, if I can't i'm not too bothered.
When I get to Morocco hoping to get a Maroc Telecom dongle thingie, then you'll nreally be fed up with me posting. :lol: 

Pete


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## delfy

*Morocco Bound*

Hi Peejay.We've been waiting to see you in print.Terrific to know that you are on your way.We leave in 6 weeks and will follow in your tyre tracks it seems.Like you , we are foresaking our jaunt to Greece so that we can add North Africa to our Pensioner trips.
Travel safely and look out for a Delfin t700 towing a camel....it will be us!! Daph and Sue.


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## tonka

Safe trip down and enjoy Moroco, we certainly did. !!

Now at marjal and heading back to UK... 

I think you have most of the input for Morocco but any other questions just ask...


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## peejay

It's now Sunday afternoon (3 March), sat here with all the other motorhomes outside the Algeciras Lidls.
The main office for Carlos the ticket man next to Lidl's is closed on Sundays but he has another office across the road at the side of the Carrefour supermarket.
Got our open returns for Algeciras – Tanger Med from a rather bored Carlos junior (eyes glued to the footy) for €200 along with the 'free' bottle of Cidre and slab of cake.
Now posting this while tucking into a McDonald just over the road.

2nd leg. Spanish border down to Algeciras.....

Left Hondarribia Tue morning, N1- Tolosa - Altsasu, A1 – Vitoria Gastez – Miranda, N1 – Burgos – Palencia, A62 -Valladolid – Salamanca, A66 Bejar – Plascencia – Caceres – Merida – Seville, NIV – Jerez (detour to Puerto Santa Maria), A381 Algeciras.

Stoppovers on way down.....

Vitoria Gastez, 10 separately marked spaces for motorhomes in large public carpark. Quiet overnight but woke to market setting up the following morning (Wed), got told off for trying to empty the toilet by the market traders as its not allowed on market days. Water on all year but turned off on market days for health reasons between 0830 – 1430. 
About 4 ins of snow here overnight.

Palencia, 10 large spaces for motorhomes and a servicepoint (water turned off). Quiet at night once all cars have gone, town was nice.
The water pump failed today, non return valve packed in, luckily I have a spare pump so a fairly quick job to change it over. Chap next door in a posh new Hymer wasn't so lucky, he had a whopping crack in his front screen and was off to try and get it repaired the following day. Cold but dry.

Caceres, Popular spot, main aire chokka full with more vans parked up at the top in the bus parking area. Servicepoint water left on all year but the Electric points have now been removed, much to the dissapointment of a few French vans, didn't really bother me as we rarely plug in. Caceres itself is nice. Warming up nicely now.

Zafra, This one not so good, situated next to busy main road on entrance to town opposite Dia supermarket. Mucho traffic noise but at least it quietened down later on, all services free, if a bit grubby. Police patrolled regularly. Zafra quite nice little town. Weather good, nice and sunny.

Puerto De Santa Maria, nice big unnoficial parking area next to the beach and ship canal on outskirts of port. We liked this one and would use it again. No facs. Wet and windy overnight.

Overnight parking costs so far - €0

Toll costs so far €0

Distance so far – 2750kms

Topped up with LPG, junc 80 A381 (Repsol Los Barrios), 78c/Ltr

Diesel in Spain averaging around €1.40/Ltr on way down.

..so here we are at Lidls car park, hoping to catch the 1100 ferry tommorrow to start our adventure in Morocco.......

Pete


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## PeterandLinda

Hope you have an excellent trip. We stayed at three of the aires you stayed at in Spain in Jan this year. We look foward to hearing about your trip to Morocco. We are off soon to Scandinavia for the summer and then to Turkey for the winter using lots of your info as we did in Greece a few years ago.

P+L


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## andyandsue

*request for you PeeJay*

a request if i may

if poss could you take a short ...say 1 min video of any good aires/campsites you visit and get in touch with us later so we can post em on the youtube channel which we keep for Mel and Chris at Vicarious books
we dont get paid for it and its our way of saying thanks to them and giving people a chance to see vids of where they might be going

ive posted a link below to show a video we took of our trip in the atlas...we visited a few really good sites and can highly rec the region..get in touch for more info as the sites on the youtube channel were too late for the guide book

hope you can help Sue and andrew for ALLTHEAIRESTV you tube channel


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## oldtart

Great to hear from you,Pete. 

Do hope you have a good crossing tomorrow and really looking forward to reading about your adventures.

Val


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## merctoby

*Good luck!!!*

Good luck pete ,

Hope your adventure goes really well ,

All i can say is ,  YOU LUCKY,LUCKY,LUCKY . what can i say !

Say hello to morocco for us PLEASE.

We will get their EVENTUALLY one day . 
Have a great time. :lol:

Take care . denton.


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## oldtart

Denton. You must get there, one day!

It's a wonderful country, with wonderful people.

You'll have a great adventure.

Val


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## delfy

*The road to morocco*

Hi Pete. Great narrative and loving the valuable information. So pleased to hear that the trip is going so well.The Sunday tip was useful too.
The night stops are going to help us hugely and your toll free route will save a few euros. Pity the fuel price has risen . Stay safe both of you.
Looking forward to the next instalment. Daf and Sue


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## StephandJohn

We cant do this trip yet so its great to have your account of it. Please keep it coming.
Thanks


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## tony_g

Hi Peejay. We crossed over yesterday. Raining when we left Algeciras and hasn't stopped since. Might stop Friday, perhaps. Or not.
Where are you now?


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## peejay

Sunday night - Overnight at Lidl carpark, mucho heavy rain again!

Counting the motorhomes arriving, and they came, and they came, I stopped counting at 75, parked around Lidls and where we were outside Leroy Merlin.
I'm not sure if this happens every night but surely they won't be allowing this for much longer. McDonalds were doing a roaring trade though!

Anyway, following morning (Mon 4th) we set off for the ferry hoping to catch the 1100 crossing. Ferry port clearly signposted and joined the queue. Got checked in at Accione check in lane then started the slow process of getting through to our ferry. There were about 6 lanes filtering into just one single checkpoint so it was a bit wacky races, nothing as chaotic as the Greec ferries can sometimes be though.
Our boat was already docked, started loading about 1045 and eventually on our way an hour late at 1200. Very rough crossing but managed to join the queue on board and get our passports stamped fairly quickly, spent most of the crossing on deck otherwise might have got a bit tom & dick with the swell. Arrived and got through to customs. There was a hold up for us as there was some problem with our information not being on the computer properly, so got the run around for about an hour before finally being let loose from customs.
Changed some money into Dirhams at the Gare Maritime and we were off! Filled up with diesel on the way 8.35Dhs (about 68p) per litre.

Decided to head for Martil where there is a decent campsite, Camping Al Boustane (N35.62867 W5.27663) and we've now been here a day and a half for a bit of a r&r as we haven't had a day off travelling for a couple of weeks.
Campsite is not too bad, but a bit waterlogged, only about £6 a night. Caught up with some washing as it was less than £3 for the machine. Heavy rain again today but some French guy assures me things will pick up tommorrow.

Had a wander into Martil today, a nice stroll along the promenade, the sea was very rough. I eventually found the Maroc Telecom shop and we're now sorted with a dongle for a month, cost 230 Dhs, I gave him 240 but he didn't have change so let me have it for 220 Dhs, what a nice man!
I was expecting it to be complicated to set up but very simple and straitforward even I found it easy.
So i'm now sorted for internet and it seems to be very fast so far, very pleased.

A desert Detours convoy pulled in this afternoon when we got back from town. Went over to say hello to Ray be he's not on that tour until later, so sorry I missed you Ray.

Tommorrow probably heading for Chefchaouen...

Pete.

ps, Tony_g, was that you parked up at Al Boustane, Martil? I saw a GB Laika on the site but didn't get to say hello.


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## StephandJohn

Thanks. Fascinating as usual. Sorry to hear about the rain. Its been lovely here in Lancaster but I don't suppose you're bothered! I wouldn't be if I was you.


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## tony_g

peejay said:


> Sunday night - Overnight at Lidl carpark, mucho heavy rain again!
> 
> Counting the motorhomes arriving, and they came, and they came, I stopped counting at 75, parked around Lidls and where we were outside Leroy Merlin.
> I'm not sure if this happens every night but surely they won't be allowing this for much longer. McDonalds were doing a roaring trade though!
> 
> Anyway, following morning (Mon 4th) we set off for the ferry hoping to catch the 1100 crossing. Ferry port clearly signposted and joined the queue. Got checked in at Accione check in lane then started the slow process of getting through to our ferry. There were about 6 lanes filtering into just one single checkpoint so it was a bit wacky races, nothing as chaotic as the Greec ferries can sometimes be though.
> Our boat was already docked, started loading about 1045 and eventually on our way an hour late at 1200. Very rough crossing but managed to join the queue on board and get our passports stamped fairly quickly, spent most of the crossing on deck otherwise might have got a bit tom & dick with the swell. Arrived and got through to customs. There was a hold up for us as there was some problem with our information not being on the computer properly, so got the run around for about an hour before finally being let loose from customs.
> Changed some money into Dirhams at the Gare Maritime and we were off! Filled up with diesel on the way 8.35Dhs (about 68p) per litre.
> 
> Decided to head for Martil where there is a decent campsite, Camping Al Boustane (N35.62867 W5.27663) and we've now been here a day and a half for a bit of a r&r as we haven't had a day off travelling for a couple of weeks.
> Campsite is not too bad, but a bit waterlogged, only about £6 a night. Caught up with some washing as it was less than £3 for the machine. Heavy rain again today but some French guy assures me things will pick up tommorrow.
> 
> Had a wander into Martil today, a nice stroll along the promenade, the sea was very rough. I eventually found the Maroc Telecom shop and we're now sorted with a dongle for a month, cost 230 Dhs, I gave him 240 but he didn't have change so let me have it for 220 Dhs, what a nice man!
> I was expecting it to be complicated to set up but very simple and straitforward even I found it easy.
> So i'm now sorted for internet and it seems to be very fast so far, very pleased.
> 
> A desert Detours convoy pulled in this afternoon when we got back from town. Went over to say hello to Ray be he's not on that tour until later, so sorry I missed you Ray.
> 
> Tommorrow probably heading for Chefchaouen...
> 
> Pete.
> 
> ps, Tony_g, was that you parked up at Al Boustane, Martil? I saw a GB Laika on the site but didn't get to say hello.


Yep, that was us. Luckily our crossing was smooth but we got the same Customs/Police runaround. Seems pretty standard judging from what other guys said.

Maroc Telecom Agence did not have a dongle in stock when we went but we found a little shop (also out of stock) but the guy there walked us around until he found one for us. Very obliging. Worked a treat out of the box at Martil.

We moved up to Chefchaouen this morning. Brief spells of sun, then relentless rain, thunder and lightning since. Haven't seen the town yet, except driving up through the 'new' bit. Site seems ok. The guy said he has reservations for tomorrow...could be DD? Probably room here, though. Had thought we'd only do one night but will have to give tomorrow a chance if we're to see the old town.

We'll probably meet up at some point.

Btw did you buy Gasoil 50 diesel? I'm told this is a bit more than the real cheap stuff but kinder to modern common rail engines.
Also, there doesn't seem to be 3G coverage on this site but got a code for free access to the restaurant wifi server, which we can pick up on our Rocket. Hence this posting!

Happy Trails


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## oldtart

Hi Pete

Great to read you've made it to Morocco!

You'll love Chefchaeuan. Look out for the steam roller on the right hand side on the way up before you arrive at the town. Wonderful views from the campsite.

You walk down to the town through a very interesting graveyard! Do go into the old town and through the narrow alleyways. We saw people taking their bread to the communal oven to be baked!

There's a museum and tower in the kasbah that are worth a visit. Also some good cafes.

You can get a 'petit taxi' for three people in the square to go back to the campsite.

Do keep posting!

Val


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## peejay

tony_g said:


> Btw did you buy Gasoil 50 diesel? I'm told this is a bit more than the real cheap stuff but kinder to modern common rail engines.
> Also, there doesn't seem to be 3G coverage on this site but got a code for free access to the restaurant wifi server, which we can pick up on our Rocket. Hence this posting!


I think it was the Gasoil 50 stuff, cheap anyway so best to go for the better quality one.
I filled at an Afrique station, it said credit cards accepted in big letters but that is for Affrique cards only apparently. I was expecting to pay in cash for diesel anyway so no worries.

Might catch up with you on our travels.

Pete


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## delfy

*The road to Morocco*

Hi Pete,get that weather sorted please.We don't want to arrive feeling green from a ropey crossing, then soaked by torrential rain.Every time you post we make notes from the details which you provide. You need to know how valuable all this information is to a couple of pensioner girls who are but a few excited but a little nervous weeks from departure.
Which would be the best diesel for our Burstner and what's the exchange rate at the moment please?Enjoy the down time by the sea. Daf and Sue.


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## merctoby

*plenty of support it seems !P*

 
HI ! again lot,s of interest here on this one , and thanks for the words of encouragment val.

I am just full of envy at the moment , Or we are it,s funny when some one goes off into the sunset you just think Oh sod it  . And you know ! you are only a few months to go before it will be your time . Well it is taking too long :?  .
You must be laughing pete to be so far ahead of the remaining few , Who ever we are . 
But enjoy it both of you . The reading feels like we are along with you ,

But enjoy pete , SUN,SEA, and what do they say :? .
love it keep em! coming .

denton.


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## peejay

Got to the campsite at Chefchaouen about lunchtime, more heavy rain again on the journey down and even more when we got there as its on the side of a big hill in the forest. They pack them in here, there was one French tour already on site and Desert Detours came rolling in the afternoon, I think they are following us, ha ha. The site was full by late afternoon.
Saw the steamrollers you mentioned on the way in Val.
Took the steep footpath down to the town which is really nice all painted in blue, wandered for ages around all the stalls then the steep trek back up the hill was a killer, Judy was in bits. That Tony_g bloke was much cleverer that us and got a petit taxi back up for a few quid.
The plan was to go and have another look around the town again in the morning but unfortunately the weather was just as bad so we decided to give it amiss and press on.

Finally ended up at Volubilis where the Roman ruins are, apparently the most famous Roman site in Morocco. Tomtom took us across the hills on a scenic but rough route and when we got to the junction to the main road it was blocked with huge piles of gravel and no apparent way to get onto the main road. A little boy saw us lost and we asked if he knew the way to the main road, he started running alongside to escort us back to the proper turn off but was out of breath so I gave him a lift on the footplate and he escorted us all the way, never would have found it without him and he was well pleased with the sweets and a few coins we gave him for his trouble.
Arrived in Volubilis and got flagged down by a chap who has room for one van in his garden just near the turn off for the ruins.
This one is nearly next to the one in Vicarious camping book but his field was flooded so we are here for the night. Water if needed and the pick of his oranges from his tree. He also does Tagines if you fancy and is very proud of his roof terrace where there are nice views of the ruins. Not bad for 25Dh, about £2 a night. N34.07357 W5.54350

Couldn't get me dongle to work last night but getting a weak signal tonight.

Dare I say the weather seems to be picking up a bit now we're away from the hills. Off to have a look at the ruins in the morning.

Pete


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## peejay

delfy said:


> Which would be the best diesel for our Burstner and what's the exchange rate at the moment please?


Sorry Delfy, I missed this bit.

I've been advised its best to stick to the main companies like Affriqua, Shell etc for your diesel.

We got around 12.5 Dh/£ from the Gare Maritime just outside customs at Tanger Med if your crossing that route.

Don't worry about the bad weather, we'll have used it all up before you get here :lol:

Pete


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## oldtart

Great to read your post,Pete. Sorry about the weather when you were in Chefchaouen. It really is a lovely.

Where are you off to after Volubilis? Are you on your own or with other campers?

Val


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## delfy

*The road to morocco*

Thanks for getting back to answer those questions.I it sounds as though you are going the opposite way round to the way we will travel.We thought that going down to Asilah from Tanger Med might be a more gentle introduction to driving in Morocco!!
Let us know if those Roman ruins are worth a visit..wet here today.
Be safe the both of you.


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## peejay

Yes, we're going clockwise, and we're travelling alone.


Went and had a look at Volubilis ruins this morning but didn't go in as you can see most of it from outside, ruins aren't really our thing anyway.
Said our goodbyes to our host, who tried to flog us some 'ancient' relics from Volubilis, looked just like rocks to me, anyway gave him 2 biro's for two rocks which kept him happy.

Decided to head for Fez today and seek out a Marjane supermarket to see what they are like.
Stopped at an Affriqua garage on the approach to Fez to get the van washed as it was minging and got accosted by a tout on a scooter who just wouldn't accept no for an answer. He wanted to show us where the Marjane was and then take us to Camping International where his father works and can get us very good price. Told him we can find the supermarket ourselves and didn't fancy the campsite as its expensive (by Moroccan standards), but he kept at it and even followed us on his scooter to the Marjane, where I politely had to tell him to bugger off. We didn't want his services thank you very much.

We were actually thinking of going to Camping International but that put us off and we're now at the guardian parking just inside the city walls at Fez. (N34.06107 W4.98581). Standard price here is now 50Dh per night.
Fantastic place with loads of hustle and bustle and just a few minutes stroll from the Bab Boulejould arch into the medina and the souk. Much better than sitting in a campsite for the night.
Had an exploratory stroll around and the place is a huge labyrinth of alleyways to get lost in and spend a fortune if you're not careful. You do get a verbal approach from most stall holders but a friendly shake of the head and a 'non' doesn't cause any offence, not half as much hard sell as I thought there would be. 
Lots going on in the square behinf the van tonight, off for an evening stroll soon to see whats on offer.

Hopefully some pics attached with this post.....

Pete


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## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Good pix today.We like the look of the Guardian parking at Fez for exploring the souks and are those oranges on the trees at Volubilis?
What info have you about the roads so far. Have you travelled on motorways or narrow strips of Tarmac with gravel hard shoulders?
Sue says please be honest about the mountain passes, steep drops,barriers or lack of them etc once you move further towards the Atlas.It's one of her hang ups! 
We really look forward to each post so another Thankyou.


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## peejay

Yes, they were oranges and he was fine with us picking a few.
We've only been on a few passes so far, nothing too taxing and the bends have crash barriers on them. Some of the road surfaces can be a bit rough in places but just take it steady.
Haven't been on a motorway yet.

Pete


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## DrRoger

Thanks for the updates. We've never been anywhere more 'wild' than France yet in our motorhomes so I'm really jealous & maybe a bit scared to follow in your footsteps-yet!

Really, really interested in your travels so thanks again-they're inspiring,
Roger


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## peejay

Spent this morning wandering around the souk and treated myself to a Tommy Cooper Fes just like that! haggled him down hard to 25Dh and then saw them for sale just up the road marked for 20Dh, doh! All part of the fun.  

Wandered into the labyrynths of the souk hoping to locate the tanneries without a guide which is hard to do as they are all over the place hassling you. In the end we found it and accidentaly (sneakily) tagged on to the end of a German guided tour and got a viewing from a roof terrace for free. We wondered why we were all given a sprig of mint as we went up the steps but soon found out why as the pong was something else. Afterwards we then quietly slipped away as all the Germans were getting the hard sell for leather goods from the terrace vendors. :lol: 

Back to the van and the carpark was getting mobbed so thought it best to leave before we got blocked in.

We are now at a lovely little campsite at Azrou near to the Cedar forests.

Tommorrow off for a bit of monkey business to see the barbary apes that live in the forest. Judy has stocked up on banana's to feed them.

Pete


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## oldtart

Hi Pete. Are you in the campsite in the orchard?

If it's the one we went to he lit a wood fire to heat up the water for the showers for us. We stayed there a few nights and chilled out. We ordered bread but then it turned out we could have walked up to the shop.

Ray, DD, First introduced us to Azrou. We all parked up in the main street with a guardian looking after the campers. There is a super cafe at the top of the street for coffee and cakes! Happy memories 

Hope you enjoy the apes. There are quite a few stalls there. I bought a lovely wooden bowl. In fact, I think I did some bargaining and got two! Also lots of jewellery. We did see the apes!!

Val


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## peejay

Yes thats the one Val, Camping Amizagh. Wood burner was lit this morning for a lovely hot shower.
Very cold and wet overnight, even had the silverscreens on.

Today we went off to the Foret de Cedres to see the Barbary apes. 5 Dh to park, had a great time feeding them although it is all a bit touristy. A good tip is to take your own bananas or nuts as they charge a hefty fee at the picnic place. Bottled out on a horseride around the forest as they looked a bit fast and skitty.
We then set off over the Middle Atlas to Midelt. The N13 route across is very scenic with a view around every corner, then as you come down the other side the landscape changes dramatically, a bit like a set from a western.
Now here at the municipal campsite at Midelt, 60Dh per night (Just under £5). The weather is beautiful and hot here during the day but very cold at night, so silverscreens on again.

Pete


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## oldtart

Hi Pete.
Pleased you got the hot shower!

We've found Midelt on the map. We didn't stop there overnight, but I have feeling we stopped for the bank and to buy food in the souk.

It's turned cold here near Wigan! Snow is forecast in some parts of the country. 

It sounds as if the further south you are going, the warmer it will become. I do hope so.

Your photos have once more brought back happy memories. Thank you.

Val


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## metblue

*morocco*

Hi to you both, love your day by day report of your trip,Jen and I are going with DD in December,It is something that we have wanted to do since our honeymoon there 25 years ago come end of November.
Been reading up all the bits and articles from folk who have or in your case doing it now regarding where to stop !!
Love your post and the details re cost and especially the co-ordinates for our GPS.
I have a Tom Tom Live 1005 and have bought the "Morocco" may and downloaded it ready to use !! Busy with it too,started a POI file for Morocco and have stored your info on it.
Also we both love your photo's too and will need to try and find out how to download photo's to the MHF forum !!

Please please keep the info coming as i like many others are really enjoying reading it.
Enjoy yourselves but take care too.

Tom & Jen


----------



## dinger

*Morocco apes*

Really enjoying your reports back from Morocco , especially the feeding of the apes or was the ape selling a banana to Mrs Peejay lol

I ,m surprised no one has commented on that wonderful two wheeled piece of machinery in the back ground :lol:

Have a good trip

Dinger


----------



## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Hello Peter and Judy. Latest photos have had me out in the snow today giving Delfin a run,ensuring that we are fully charged as our D Day draws ever closer.by the way as you bask in the heat, the snowflakes were falling horizontally blasted by easterly winds with a temp of -4.
Keep those posts coming please.


----------



## peejay

Monday, made our way south on the N13 through the Gorges du Ziz, fantastic scenery with a photo oportunity around avery corner. There are lush Palm forests running either side of the river in stark contrast to the barren rock of the gorges, some fantastic sights. We stopped off at Lake Hassam Adda Khil with its turqouise waters before stopping off for the night at a lovely little campsite within a Palmerserai just off the N13, Camping Tisirt (N31.78414 W04.23089) steep descent to site with a very sharp bend at the end of the track so I would say not suitable for very long outfits.
The campsite is a delight,set amoungst the palms and Mohamed the guardien keeps everything spotless. Great little place, stayed here for a few days and wandered around the palm forest and the nearby villages, the only drawback is no signal for internet here.
Today we carried on down the N13 stopping off for the market at Erfoud and a lunchstop at Rissini befor eheading into the desert and the Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga.
Overnight here at a small campsite just outside Merzuoga overlooking the dunes, great spot but we've just had a storm and discovered that insect screens don't keep out sand as there is a fine covering of sand everywhere, and I mean everywhere! 40Dh per night and they do camel treks from the site. Camping Auberge La Tradition (N31.08051 W04.00544). Camels bedded down for the night just behind our van, hope they don't snore!

Unfortunately signal crap tonight so can't upload any piccies yet.

Pete


----------



## peejay

Piccies if they work...


----------



## peejay

..and hopefully a few from todays trip through the deserrt....

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Thanks, Pete.

Photos are super bringing back those happy memories.

We did an overnight camel trip at Erb Chebbi to watch the sunrise. magnificent. We had a three course meal prepared on a gas stove by our guide and two helpers. 

I do hope the sky is clear and you can see the stars.

Val


----------



## tonka

Great to be reading the thread and seeing the pictures.

We arrived home yesterday after our trip so it's bringing it all back to me.. Loved every minute in Morocco and will definatly be doing it again.. 
For anyone considering it, don't be worried, go give it a try...


----------



## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Wow Pete,your trip just gets better and better. The photographs are spectacular and you could be an employee of the Moroccan tourist board advertising the country......they have worked for me!! Tingling with anticipation as D Day gets closer for us. Daf.


----------



## peejay

Stayed at Erg Chebbi for a few days and chilled out. I say chilled out, apart from an epic camel ride into the dunes which we really enjoyed but suffered for it the next day with sore bums and thighs all round. Mr camel man started off at a rediculous price of 250dh each but with our masterly haggling skills we got him down to 100dh each. Felt dead chuffed about that but no doubt we we're still paying over the odds but no matter, it was a good laugh. Our Moroccan guide didn't speak a word of anything we could understand but he was a great character and kept giggling every time he led our camels down a steep slope and looking back seeing us struggle. We also had a nice Moroccan sing song en route, something about allah and stuff, we just copied what he sang. All in all a brilliant day.

Following morning emptied the van of sand again and set off to the Todra gorge where we have pulled in to a lovely little site nestling between a river and the bronzy rocks of the gorge. Camping Atlas (N31.55311 W5.58473).
Immaculately kept place and 60dh a night. Off to explore the area tommorrow....

Pete


----------



## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Pete, will a 7 and a half metre Burstner get to Camp Tisirt around that bend you mentioned ?
You both look really good on the camels and we are pleased to see the van you drive, parked amongst the palm trees.


----------



## peejay

*Re: Road to Morocco*



delfy said:


> Pete, will a 7 and a half metre Burstner get to Camp Tisirt around that bend you mentioned ?
> You both look really good on the camels and we are pleased to see the van you drive, parked amongst the palm trees.


Yes, I think you will be ok, its an awkward descent down to the site along a rough track with a tight left turn, we are 6 mtrs and had no probs, I was thinking more of the big German Concordes etc might struggle with the turn, especially if you needed to shunt as its on a steep slope. Just take it nice and slow.
I think you will like the site and you will get a good welcome from Mohahmed.

A quick update on exchange rates so far...

Judy changed some sterling at the Tanger Med Gare Maritime and got 12.4/£

I have been using my Clarity card at cashpoints in 2000Dh amounts and the rate has been around 12.6/£ for the past few transactions.

Pete


----------



## musicbus

Pete

Enjoying the updates. 

We are wintering there next year and you are making me want to go now.

We are just back from the Algarve and it was so crowded. I have never seen so many vans in the one place Silves Portimao Lagos all seemed like 200 plus. Definitely places to avoid.

After using your Greek wildcamping guide to great advantage I am following you with great interest.

Enjoy!

Barry


----------



## HermanHymer

StephandJohn said:


> Thanks. Fascinating as usual. Sorry to hear about the rain. Its been lovely here in Lancaster but I don't suppose you're bothered! I wouldn't be if I was you.


Hi Steph and John

and hi to Lancaster, my birthplace! Lived in Carnforth till i was 10. That was a helluva long time ago. Been there a few times while my niece was at uni that about 10 years ago and to visit famiy It has a comfortable and familiar feel to it. Been there long?


----------



## GeoffCrowther

Hi Pete & Judy
Great fun reading your thread today. Been to Morocco twice by motorbike. Last year I was there on my trusty BMW for most of April following a similar route to yours. Are you off down to MHamid, the end of the road into the desert? I recommend it. Also Zagora is worth a visit and Ouarzazate. And don't miss Ait Benhaddou. The back road from there to almost the summit of the Tizi'n'Tichka had recently been tarmacked when I was there last year and makes for a fabulous drive (it's shown as unsurfaced on most maps). Try it and you won't regret it.
Keep safe and enjoy!
Geoff


----------



## peejay

musicbus said:


> We are wintering there next year and you are making me want to go now.
> 
> We are just back from the Algarve and it was so crowded. I have never seen so many vans in the one place Silves Portimao Lagos all seemed like 200 plus. Definitely places to avoid.


Hi Barry, 
I was surprised at the number of motorhomes over here too, there are loads of them, mainly French.

------------------------------------

Had a nice few days around the campsite exploring all the palm gardens, its one big allotment amongst the palms with loads of tiny fields all growing diffent produce. Families come down to tend their crops and what they pick is carried back home by donkey.
Weather was overcast but still warm. We got a bit lost on our trek and ended up doing about 3 hours instead of the intended short stroll.
Left the campsite Sunday morning to vist the Todra gorge before the hoards arrive, quite a spectacular drive through but the narrow part is very touristy with stalls set along the road. We carried on through for a few kms and stopped for a snack watching a couple of climbers ascending the vertical rocks like monkeys. A woman and her 2 children passed the van and Judy gave the kids a few sweets (they weren't begging otherwise we wouldn't have given them) and the woman pointed to a nasty gash on her eyebrow and asked for crème. Judy did her Florence Nightingale bit and cleaned the wound and put some Germolene on it and they were on their way ever gratefull. We then headed back through the main gorge back to the main N10 and stopped for luch at Tinehir, great market there and we got a huge lump of steak freshly carved off the carcass (which was hanging in front of us) for £2.50. This is destined for the griddle for tea in the next few days, yum yum. 
The N10 to Boumalne du Dades was a boring stretch of no mans land unlike some of the stunning scenery we had seen so far and we were glad to pull off the road and head up to the Dades gorge.
A rough road but scenery along here is spectacular, even more impressive than Todra in our opinion. 
The road goes through the first part of the gorge then rises dramatically via torturous switchbacks over a pass with dizzying views down between the gorge. Spectacular but makes you feel a bit dizzy if your not good with heights. An equally steep descent back down again and a drive through the narrowest part of the gorge (mind the overhang if you meet something coming the other way) before emerging the other side and to our next stoppover, Hotel Camping Berbere de Montagne, this one is a large area behind the hotel right between the gorge and next to a raging river. The only downside being the sun dissapears early because of the high rocks either side. 60Dh per night. N31.55763 W5.90986.
Maroc telecom dongle no worky here unfortunately.
Today we back tracked along the gorge then picked up the N10 again through Skoura where they were having a flea market right on the main street of the town. Lunch stop at Lake Mansour Eddafihi before ending up at Ait Benihaddou, parked up in the courtyard of the posh Hotel La Kasbah. Parking overnight for 20dh (£1.70), no facs but free wifi from the adjacent hotel. (N31.04268 W7.12932). Just had a quick look around the Kasbah, bit of a tourist trap but might have a look again first thing tommorow.
We then have to decide whether to cut across to Marrakech or head west for the coast....

Pete


----------



## Scattycat

It's good to follow your trip. It's wetting our appitite for going back next winter and visiting places we missed this time.

Enjoy!


----------



## peejay

We've decided that Marrakesh can wait until our next visit otherwise we're in danger of trying to do too much this time around so we're heading west to the coast.
Nice quiet night in the hotel courtyard and an early start, as we headed back into Ouazarzate to visit the Atlas film studios. Lots of famous films have been shot here.
5dhs to park (The guardien was the spitting image of Blakey from On the Buses complete with hat  ) and 50dhs each admission, it was interesting but the sets were beginning to crumble with age, had an enjoyable hour or so there posing in front of different sets, shame they didn't have any info about what set was from what film displayed, we could have had a guide but there was a wait before one was available.
Had a nice lunch in town. Chicken brochettes with chips and salad for 68dh (about£6) and found a little supermarche to stock up a bit before heading across on the N10 to Taliouine which is famous for its saffron, we promised our neighbour we'd get her some, least we could do as she is looking after the house for us while we are away.
This stretch of road wasn't too hot, rough road surface and extremely strong crosswinds made for heavy going and the kamikazi coach drivers didn't help.
Now pitched up at Camping Toubaki, on the outskirts of the town, 60dh per night, 20dh for leccy. Well laid out site with excellent showers. (N30.52240 W7.89449).

Pete


----------



## zappy61

Hi Pete,
Great thread that road down the gorge looks a bit scary! On the sites generally what are the facilities like? Is the water OK and drinkable?

Regards,

Graham


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete.

Really enjoying your posts. 

Just a quick note about camp sites as we did the coast in 2009. We used the Vicarious Books All The Aires in Morocco and the following campsites.

We used the site at Aglou Plage and then found a new road along the coast, through Massa to Camping International at Sidi Wassay. This was a new site and they had a washing machine, an Electrlux, top loader! There were hot showers ordered bread and it was still hot when it arrived. We were able to walk along the beach a a 'Moussem'. Just checked my diary and this is south of Agadir. 

From there we went to Sidi Kaouri. There were showers here. A nice little site, with bread delivered my an old man on a donkey. Again there were hot showers and a wonderful beach for walks.

Next stop was Essaouira where there is a camp site. I think comments have already been made about this site on postings.

Happy travelling.

Val


----------



## oly

The site at Essaouira is a 'Danger to Health' The facilities don't work! Raw sewage flows on the pathways. It stinks! The bins are overflowing with refuse and wild cats dominate the site! Its disgusting!


----------



## peejay

zappy61 said:


> Hi Pete,
> Great thread that road down the gorge looks a bit scary! On the sites generally what are the facilities like? Is the water OK and drinkable?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Graham


Hi Graham, campsite facilities are old fashioned and tired as you'd expect but the ones we've visited have been kept clean. We've been sticking to bottled water but the tap water has been fine for the m/h tank, some we've talked to have been drinking it but I have a delicate tummy so stick to the bottled stuff.

------------------------------------------

The N10 (that road again) from Ouarzazate to Taroudannt was even worse than the other bit I mentioned, potholes all the way and the width is just enough for two to pass in most places but the trucks and coaches still hurtle along only dropping onto the gravel shoulder at the last minute, take care if you come along this stretch of road.

Arrived at Tarouddant last night and parked up at the gardien parking area by the city walls, there are two seperate areas where you can park here, this one and another just around the corner 20dh p/n. Both noisy but location can't be beat overlooking the city walls. N30.47532 W8.87243. Had a nice stroll around the town, which is quite posh by Moroccan standards before settling down for the night and watching Morocco go by from the dinette.

Today we are heading to Agadir, Judy needs a Marjane fix as she hasn't been to a 'proper' supermarket for over two weeks, shock horror.
Not sure where we're staying yet but it will be nice to get back to the coast.

BTW, a little birdy was fascinated with his own reflection in our mirror this morning, does anyone know what it is?

Pete


----------



## delfy

*Lidl in Algeciras.*

Hi Pete and Judy, hope the trip continues to be the adventure that you had hoped for. Quick question. Just looking on Google Earth and spot 2 Lidels in Algeciras. Which is the one for Carlos and the ticket office please?
Have a good day in the sun. Delfy x


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete

Dave thinks the bird is a Sardinian Warbler. He's checked it out in theRSPB bird book.

Val


----------



## peejay

*Re: Lidl in Algeciras.*



delfy said:


> Quick question. Just looking on Google Earth and spot 2 Lidels in Algeciras. Which is the one for Carlos and the ticket office please?


Hiya, coords are 36.18136 -5.43977, to the north of Algeciras near Palmones, J112 off the A7.



oldtart said:


> Dave thinks the bird is a Sardinian Warbler. He's checked it out in theRSPB bird book.


Thanks for that, he's a long way from home then. 

---------

After a Marjane fix at Agadir we're now at Camping Aglou Plage. The one in Vic Books (Hotel Camping Aglou Plage) now only allows overnight parking around the back in a compound for 50dh p/n with no facs which we didn't fancy.

This site is fairly expensive by Morocco standards at 70dh p/n + Leccy but its very popular with many French long stayers here, there are various reductions for stays over 6 days. Excellent facilities on a terraced site overlooking the sea and a 10 min walk to town. N29.80427 W9.82856

www.campingaglou.com

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete. Great to read your posting. Look out for the Glossy Ibis. Quite a rare bird and we saw it on the perimeter wall of the campsite at Aglou Plage. 

I remember buying bread near the hotel.

Hope the weather is better than here. We are sat here in Wigan waiting for the snow- an amber warning! We should be going to an 80th. Birthday dinner on Saturday evening near Seascale on the west coast of Cumbria. The forecast is not good!

Val


----------



## peejay

We liked the Aglou plage campsite and enjoyed our stay there. It would be a good base if staying in the area for longer, bit of a trek to the beach though.
Not far for our next stop, only about 25 kms south and we found a tiny little fishing port and asked at the port office if we could stay the night, no problem at all.
Great location on the jetty overlooking the rough and moody Atlantic.
This place is in the Vic book under Merleft but the coords are wrong, the junction where you turn off for the port is N29.50819 W10.06947, then just head down the steep track to the jetty.
The fishermen come to your van and offer to sell you fresh fish just after it has been landed.
There is a problem with feral cats there though, keep all your locker doors closed or they will be in like a shot, one little sod pinched one of my lamb chops which was supposed to be dinner that night.
A fisherman came to the van with a cut toe and Judy patched it up for him, word must be getting around tht shes a dab hand at dressing cuts and grazes.
Had a great night there listening to the raging sea and today set off for another short drive to Sidi Ifni, several campsites here, we settled for Camping El Barco which is right on the beach front backed by cliffs, its a bit ramshackle and the facilities aren't brilliant but a great location. 60Dh p/n 15dh leccy. N29.38270 W10.17605
Off to the market tommorrow.

Maroc telecom dongle is crap here but theres free wifi close to reception

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi, Pete.
Goodness me, the Sidi Ifni campsite looks far busier than when we were there!

Where are you heading to, or don't you have a plan? We've done the coast right the way down to Dakhla. 

Hope you enjoy Sidi Ifni. I agree about the campsite!

Val


----------



## jedi

Hi Pete,

Thanks for your regular updates. Heading for Dover tomorrow then I'm on my way.

Woke up this morning to 5cm of snow in Norfolk. I'm already in the van as the cottage is let out. First job was to clear the solar panel! But plenty of charge gone in today.

With the coldest March for 50 years here I can't wait to cover some miles this week on my journey south.

Jed


----------



## peejay

No definate plans Val, except we're slowly heading back north.

Bet you can't wait Jed, 23c today and blazing sun  , have a safe trip out.

Pete


----------



## zappy61

peejay said:


> zappy61 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Pete,
> Great thread that road down the gorge looks a bit scary! On the sites generally what are the facilities like? Is the water OK and drinkable?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Graham
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Graham, campsite facilities are old fashioned and tired as you'd expect but the ones we've visited have been kept clean. We've been sticking to bottled water but the tap water has been fine for the m/h tank, some we've talked to have been drinking it but I have a delicate tummy so stick to the bottled stuff.
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> The N10 (that road again) from Ouarzazate to Taroudannt was even worse than the other bit I mentioned, potholes all the way and the width is just enough for two to pass in most places but the trucks and coaches still hurtle along only dropping onto the gravel shoulder at the last minute, take care if you come along this stretch of road.
> 
> Arrived at Tarouddant last night and parked up at the gardien parking area by the city walls, there are two seperate areas where you can park here, this one and another just around the corner 20dh p/n. Both noisy but location can't be beat overlooking the city walls. N30.47532 W8.87243. Had a nice stroll around the town, which is quite posh by Moroccan standards before settling down for the night and watching Morocco go by from the dinette.
> 
> Today we are heading to Agadir, Judy needs a Marjane fix as she hasn't been to a 'proper' supermarket for over two weeks, shock horror.
> Not sure where we're staying yet but it will be nice to get back to the coast.
> 
> BTW, a little birdy was fascinated with his own reflection in our mirror this morning, does anyone know what it is?
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...

Thanks Pete,

Maybe my Test Kit would be useful?
It's a very interesting thread keep it coming.

Graham


----------



## peejay

Sidi Ifni was a steep walk up the hill to the town, not much of a market compared to others we have visited though.
Although the campsite was in a good location it was a real let down, facilities were dirty and the rubbish bins were overflowing, it seemed to us they were just cashing in on the many Europeans here and didn't want to spend any money or make an effort to tidy the place up, shame really and a bit of a couldn't care less attitude. Their loss, If we came again we would use one of the 2 other sites we saw just down the road.
We stayed 2 nights but decided to head inland to Tiznit and are now at the Municipal campsite right by the city walls. Good location and only a quick stroll and you are in the souk, a very well organised one with separate areas for different products, spent ages wandering around. There are also loads of little shops next door to the site that can knock you up canopies for your windows and another guy does the paintings on the side of vans. I'm a bit wary about having one of these done, some of them look good but but if you decide to sell the van it might put off potential buyers. We were thinking of having a discreet one on the inside of the door, not decided yet though. There's some very good ones about but also some right naff ones as well.

Off for another walk around the souk in the morning and then off to Tafraoute...

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete.

I agree with you about Sidi Ifni. I didn't want to say a lot to you but we were not impressed with the campsite or the town. 

Yes. The campsite is in a lovely situation, but like some of the other sites it is not particularly well-managed. I have to say Sidi Ifni was not one of our favourite places! At least you found the market, we didn't !

We have yet to stay in Tiznit. Maybe, one day.

You are going to one of our favourite towns in Morocco - Tafroute. I think you have seen my post on it.

I would suggest you stay at the Les Palmieres campsite. It is the one nearest the town and we have always been happy there. There was only one shower and you have to organise it with the guardian but the water is hot (or it was when we were there). I was able to do hand washing and I think there were lines to hang it out. Hopefully there are not too any Dutch and French campers there!

There is a old house which you must visit. An old man takes you round. I don't have access to my diary tonight but will post you tomorrow with the info. It really is worth a visit. Also, there are some lovely walks. Someone reading this post may have the info to hand.

Enjoy. Wish we were there!!

Val


----------



## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Val and Peter. Thankyou both as your information has helped us tweak our route. Would really like to know what the road between Tiznit and Tafroute is like . Will give Sidi Ifini a miss and try another coastal spot. How long have you left in Morocco Peter? Keep safe. Delfy


----------



## oldtart

Hi Delfy
The road from Tiznit to Tafroute is ok especially when you are coming up from the coast. You are on the inside! There is a hotel on the way up with a car park where you can pull in and take some photos of the absolutely fantastic view. The hotel is at the top of the hill after the bends. 

On the way up to Tafroute you will see there are two roads. We usually take the R104. The other one takes you past the Hotel owned by the Dutch lady I mentioned in my post on Tafroute. 

I don't know which road you are taking out of Tafroute. We have been both ways on the Agadir road. Again, fantastic views a bit of a white knuckle ride but well worth it- we think. This road takes you through Ait- Baha.

Val


----------



## peejay

Delfy, we came up from the coast on the R104 from Sidi Ifni to Tiznit and it has just been resurfaced, let you know what the rest of it up to Tafraoute is like tommorrow...

Pete


----------



## Grizzly

peejay said:


> BTW, a little birdy was fascinated with his own reflection in our mirror this morning, does anyone know what it is?
> Pete


A Blackcap. There are some in our garden right now. See also:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gardening-blog/2013/jan/10/blackcap-winter-migratory-bird

Tell this one to stay where it is !

G


----------



## oldtart

Hi everyone

G. Dave stands corrected. He says the blackcap was his second choice of bird. It was the red ring round its eye that made him think it was the warbler.

Pete and Delfry - I've just looked up the Lonely Planet guide about the house. I don't know if you have guide books with you so I'll post what it says.

'On the Agadir road, four miles out of Tafroutenthe road forks with the right branch turning East up the valley towards Agadir. Another four kilometres on from there is Oumesnate. Follow a signpost off to the left along a short piste and a footpath for the Maison Traditionelle. (Admission Dh. 10 open 830 till sunset. '

It's a 400 year old house which has been opened to the public by its owner who has been blind from an early age. The book says his son gives you the tour, but in fact, the old man took us round. 

It is well worth the visit. He even dressed me up in the traditional dress that the women wear for very special occasions. thee ae also some wonderful musical instruments which he played for us.

Of course, there are the painted rocks We did a 4x4 tour with a driver who spoke English. W wentto the Gorges at Ait Mansour. iIt was October and they were picking the dates. It was just so quiet and peaceful there. We went as part of a 4x4 day tour with a driver called Mohammed. And did it with another couple so it wasn't too expensive. We felt it was really worth it as we visited places that were not accessible with the camper.

Well. I do hope this helps. It was 2008 when we did this though we did go again in2009"

Just hope the weather is better than here. It's snowing. 

Val


----------



## Grizzly

oldtart said:


> G. Dave stands corrected. He says the blackcap was his second choice of bird. It was the red ring round its eye that made him think it was the warbler.
> 
> Val


It's good to have it confirmed by a pro, Val. We've had these birds all through winter and provisionally identified them as blackcaps but all our books and Google images are pretty poor so we weren't 100% sure.

When I saw Pete's photo it was absolutely identical- the best match I've seen. It seemed unlikely it was a Sardinian Warbler in Oxfordshire ( one perhaps - several, never !) so I looked for more detail of the blackcap and it fits.

Now off to see if I can help the RSPB survey them.

Enjoy the trip Pete and keep the fabulous photos and helpful words coming.

G


----------



## oldtart

Hi G. Dave wouldn't claim to, be a pro, but does enjoy bird watching and identifying birds he hasn't seen before.

I' m pleased you posted because it' s just reminded me of a rare bird our local RSPB leader told us to look out for in Morocco and we saw it in Tafroute.

I just have to find out what it was now!!

Val


----------



## oldtart

The bird is Moussier's redstart. 

If you Google it you will be able to see exactly what I looks like!!

Val


----------



## oldtart

Hi G. I was about to post you as a follow up to the blackcap!,

Dave came in and checked Pete's photo again with the bird books and Internet. 

He says the blackcap doesn't have the red ring round its eye and the white on the Sardinian Warbler continues further round the neck!

I'm just the messenger !!!!!

Val


----------



## Grizzly

oldtart said:


> He says the blackcap doesn't have the red ring round its eye and the white on the Sardinian Warbler continues further round the neck!
> 
> Val


Ours has no red ring so is clearly a blackcap; won't say a "bog-standard blackcap" as we've not seen them before this year. We also have an albino blue tit but suspect he won't last long !

Can Dave recommend a good bird book ? Ours is awful.

G


----------



## peejay

Thanks for the birdy info ladies, I have another one for you, seen also at Tarroudannt, perhaps you know what this one is?

Today we have another look around the souk again at Tiznit, really like this one as its very easy to find your way around. We then set off on the road to Taffraoute, the pass over the Col du Kerdous was no problem, quite a mild ascent compared to some Alpine passes we've been over. Stopped for a bite to eat at the hotel at the top, nice views but it was cloudy at the top.
According to Rough Guide and also confirmed by a guy at the Tiznit campsite, where the road forks at Ida Oussemlal, its best not to follow the fork off to the left on the R104 (road works and bad surfaces all along this route) but keep heading straight on and follow the signs to Taffroute along that road. We did this and the road wasn't brilliant with single file tarmac with gravel sides for passing so dread to think what the other road is like at the moment. Had another skirmish with one of the Tourist coaches on this stretch who nearly took me out and refused to drop onto the gravel. The descent into Taffraoute was very scenic however and you also pass the track for the painted rocks.
Had a look at Camping les Trois Palmiers and it was jam packed both inside and outside the walls and looked a bit like a French Campingcar refugee camp. We enquired about the price to be told dismissively '2 nights minimum', on asking why the minimum' was followed by a take it or leave it shrug. 
No contest, we went about ½ km up the road and there is a sort of wildcamp spot on a large area of ground dotted with palm trees where there were a few vans parked up. Loads of room and a really nice spot overlooking the Anti Atlas mountains. Guardien has just been to collect the money for the night, 10dh's about 80p. N29.719132 W8.982943
Apart from the road over the pass its been a really nice sunny hot day but has clouded over this evening.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi, Pete. A shame about Les Trois Palmieres. We were last there in 2009. It is obviously getting very popular. It doesn't sound like the same guardian because the one we knew couldn't have been more helpful. Are there any facilities where you are?

Now, the bird. . Dave has looked it up and thinks it is a house bunting. 

Love the photos. Have you anything planned for Tafroute?

As you have The Rough Guide it will probably have all the info I've given you!

G. I'm just going to check on Amazon about the books. Ours are older copes but were recommended by our local R.S.P. B leader.

Val


----------



## peejay

oldtart said:


> Are there any facilities where you are?


Yep, there's a rubbish bin. :lol: 
Can't moan for 80p a night - Oh, and wall to wall scenery.



oldtart said:


> Now, the bird. . Dave has looked it up and thinks it is a house bunting.


Thanks to Dave for that.

Pete


----------



## Scattycat

peejay said:


> Thanks for the birdy info ladies, I have another one for you, seen also at Tarroudannt, perhaps you know what this one is?
> 
> Today we have another look around the souk again at Tiznit, really like this one as its very easy to find your way around. We then set off on the road to Taffraoute, the pass over the Col du Kerdous was no problem, quite a mild ascent compared to some Alpine passes we've been over. Stopped for a bite to eat at the hotel at the top, nice views but it was cloudy at the top.
> According to Rough Guide and also confirmed by a guy at the Tiznit campsite, where the road forks at Ida Oussemlal, its best not to follow the fork off to the left on the R104 (road works and bad surfaces all along this route) but keep heading straight on and follow the signs to Taffroute along that road. We did this and the road wasn't brilliant with single file tarmac with gravel sides for passing so dread to think what the other road is like at the moment. Had another skirmish with one of the Tourist coaches on this stretch who nearly took me out and refused to drop onto the gravel. The descent into Taffraoute was very scenic however and you also pass the track for the painted rocks.
> Had a look at Camping les Trois Palmiers and it was jam packed both inside and outside the walls and looked a bit like a French Campingcar refugee camp. We enquired about the price to be told dismissively '2 nights minimum', on asking why the minimum' was followed by a take it or leave it shrug.
> No contest, we went about ½ km up the road and there is a sort of wildcamp spot on a large area of ground dotted with palm trees where there were a few vans parked up. Loads of room and a really nice spot overlooking the Anti Atlas mountains. Guardien has just been to collect the money for the night, 10dh's about 80p. N29.719132 W8.982943
> Apart from the road over the pass its been a really nice sunny hot day but has clouded over this evening.
> 
> Pete


Hi, I've just noticed the exterior blinds you have on your side windows.

I've seen a few vans with them on but never seen them on sale anywhere. Can you remember where you bought them?
Thanks in advance
Mike & Lin


----------



## peejay

Scattycat said:


> Hi, I've just noticed the exterior blinds you have on your side windows.
> 
> I've seen a few vans with them on but never seen them on sale anywhere. Can you remember where you bought them?
> Thanks in advance
> Mike & Lin


Hi Mike & Lin,

Just had them made up here in Morocco at Aglou Plage, there was also someone doing them near the site at Tiznit.

Haggle hard for a good price next time you're here!

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi,G.

I've checked our books on Amazon.the one that Dave has used to identify Pete's birds and that he finds is the best is Collins Bird Guide ( 4 March2010) £11 58 paperback. This book goes everywhere with us but stays in the camper and narrow boat when we go out as it is quite heavy. Dave refers to it when we get back. The books we take with us are the RSPB Pocket Birds. Dorling Kindersley 2 January 2009). The third book seems to be out of print and I think it has been replaced by the Birdwatchers Pocket Guide to Britain and EuropeRob Hume and Peter Hayman (6 April 2009) £6 89.

Hope this helps. We have seen so many different birds on our travels, especially in Morocco.

Val


----------



## Scattycat

peejay said:


> Scattycat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I've just noticed the exterior blinds you have on your side windows.
> 
> I've seen a few vans with them on but never seen them on sale anywhere. Can you remember where you bought them?
> Thanks in advance
> Mike & Lin
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mike & Lin,
> 
> Just had them made up here in Morocco at Aglou Plage, there was also someone doing them near the site at Tiznit.
> 
> Haggle hard for a good price next time you're here!
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...

That explains why, so far, I've only seen them on vans in Morocco :lol:


----------



## peejay

Tonight is our third night here at Tafraoute, longest we've stayed anywhere for some time.
The wildcamp spot is great, even found a well to use for washing and topping up the solar shower.
First trip for water went well (!), managed to get a cannister full of water using my tow rope and a bit of bungee, second trip not so good, managed to let go of rope while bucket was down there, doh. 
Idea! Got my fishing rod and tried to fish it out (very deep hole)...
End result...
Lost bucket
Lost tow rope
Broken rod and snapped line.
Ah well, new tow rope added to shopping list, never used the rod anyway, wondered why it was so cheap, now I know. Judy was most amused and reckons it was like a scene out of Last of the Summer Wine.
We had a drive out to see the famous painted stones along a track on the outskirts of Tafraoute. A Belgian guy used 18 tons of paint to colour the rocks back in 1984, one has to ask – why?
The rocks have faded a little over the years so I used the 'super vivid' option in the photo's to show the colour more. Certainly 'different'.
Rest of the time was spent mooching around the town and sunbathing, weather has been fantastic for the last few days.
Off tommorrow back towards Agadir then a slow trip up the coast...

Happy Easter everyone!

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete and Judy
Really enjoyed your news and photos!

Hope you enjoyed the journey back down to Agadir. Did you do the R105. 

Val


----------



## peejay

Saturday saw us sadly leaving Taffraoute and heading towards Agadir via the R105 that Val mentioned.
This road doesn't look very twisty on the map but I can assure you it is. Very scenic but slow route with some passes having just a single carriageway. I met a truck coming the other way and had to reverse around several bends before there was a suitable passing place, not helped by the sheer drop with no crash barriers in places. Good job we weren't going the other direction or Judy would have been hanging over the edge on some corners, don't think she would have liked that much.
Once the road reaches Ait Baha its straightens out though and is an easy if a little bland (compared to the previous stretch) route into Agadir.
Stopped at the Marjane to buy some wine as our stash had finally run out. Managed to get some for about £3 a bottle which isn't too bad considering the silly prices in UK. Its all very cloak and dagger, entering a separate section of the supermarket and going out through a separte till to the general grocery area, we called it the 'naughty till', as it felt like you shouldn't be doing it. Surprisingly though there were plenty of locals in the queue, mainly with beer and Pastis.
Found an Elephant Bleu car wash near the Marjane and treated the van to a wash as it was filthy and then headed out on the N1 north and saw a huge parking area by the beach at Taghazoute but decided to press on a few more kms to Camping Atlantica Park. Arrived there and didn't fancy it much so backtracked to the parking area at Taghazoute we passed earlier.
This place is brilliant, a huge area overlooking the beach, there were probably about 100 vans here but there is loads of room for everyone. Guardien collects the 10dh (80p) fee each morning. There is a (filthy) toilet on the beach where you can empty your loo and a water truck visits twice a day and charges 20dh for all the water you can take. Bread man comes round each morning and there is a handyman on a moped who will fix things and go gets things like gas refills if needed. N30.53677 W9.69868.
We loved this spot and stayed for 4 nights, very unusual for us to stay so long in one place. The main reason was Taghazoute itself which is a brilliant picturesque little laid back surfing village. Bronzed retired Europeans motorhomers rub shoulders with surfer dudes,, lilly white package tourists and the local Morrocans, its a wonderful mix and all very friendly and relaxed, our favourite place so far.
Tomorrow we are heading north again towards Essaouira.
My Maroc Telecom dongle runs out in a few days and decided not to renew so possibly the last entry until we get back to Spain or find wifi...

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete and Judy
Absolutely delighted to read your posting. I was beginning to wonder if all was ok knowing that road as far as Ait Baha!!!

We are surprised that they are allowing campers at Taghazoute. We think it was the place they were moving campers off last time we were there.

Hope all goes well for the remainder of your tour.

I think I've already mentioned campsites or places to visit on your journey up the coast.

Looking forward to your next posting.

Val


----------



## peejay

We're now at Sidi Kaouki, Camping Paradis Aicha Kaouki (formerly Centre de Loisirs VHM in the Vic Book). N31.34808 W9.79552
30dh per night, a bit ramshackle but nice location next to a very windy beach.
Theres a posh site about 100mtrs down the road but this one will do.

Internet coverage is superfast whizzing along tonight here, unlike Taghazoute which is strange as we're even more remote. Dongle runs out tomorrow I think.

No piccies, haven't taken any yet! Judy has just fed the entire local dog population with leftover spagboll, we'll never get rid of the buggers now!

Very clammy tonight, storm clouds approaching and the rumble of thunder in the distance.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

That sounds like the site we stayed at, Pete.

If so, I wonder if the old man will arrive on his on his donkey with the bread!

Hope you have a good night, especially if the storm arrives. 

Val


----------



## zappy61

Nice beach site Pete but don't fancy drinking that water out of the truck!

Graham


----------



## peejay

Graham, the stuff I do drink from there gets boiled first in the kettle, still alive to tell the tale. :lol: 

You should see some of the toilets over here ukeright: 

Pete


----------



## delfy

*Road to morocco*

Pete and Judy, we want to say "Thankyou" for your entertaining and incredibly informative posts. We have learnt so much to help us with our trip in a couple of weeks. We have been with you every turn of your wheels and feel better prepared than we thought possible , with your GPS co ordinates, advice on Aires and sites, costs, wifi and road conditions to support our planning.
No wonder so many folk have viewed your posts this last month, they have been more useful than the Rough Guide!!
Travel safely. Delfy


----------



## zappy61

peejay said:


> Graham, the stuff I do drink from there gets boiled first in the kettle, still alive to tell the tale. :lol:
> 
> You should see some of the toilets over here ukeright:
> 
> Pete


Don;t blame you mate who knows where that trucks been :lol: 
Great thread keep it coming.

Graham


----------



## peejay

Thanks delfy, you're very kind.

Always happy to share any info and glad it is helping someone else, that's what its all about.

I'm pretty sure you'll enjoy your time in Morocco as much as we have. Have a brilliant trip!

Shukran!

Pete & Judy


----------



## peejay

zappy61 said:


> Don;t blame you mate who knows where that trucks been :lol:


Graham, if I see any more water bowsers i'll tell them all about zappys tablets.

You could make your fortune over here :lol:

Pete


----------



## jedi

*Re: Road to morocco*



delfy said:


> Pete and Judy, we want to say "Thankyou" for your entertaining and incredibly informative posts. We have learnt so much to help us with our trip in a couple of weeks. We have been with you every turn of your wheels and feel better prepared than we thought possible , with your GPS co ordinates, advice on Aires and sites, costs, wifi and road conditions to support our planning.
> No wonder so many folk have viewed your posts this last month, they have been more useful than the Rough Guide!!
> Travel safely. Delfy


I'll second that, Pete. Now at ACSI site at Marbella for a couple of nights before heading for Lidl's and Carlos on Saturday. First campsite used on way down. Slightly mis-timed arrivaldown here as I was in such a hurry to escape UK weather. Green card not valid til weekend!

Looking forward to the next two months armed with lots of good ideas from your posts.

Jed


----------



## peejay

Have a good one Jed  

Big storm last night but has cleared the air nicely.

Man on donkey has just delivered the bread.

A stroll along the beach after breakfast then its off along the road a few kms to explore Essaouira.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete and Judy.

It's the same site and the same man on the donkey!

We really liked Essaouira. Its great for scarves, clothes and jewelry! Do you know about the fish cafes by the harbour where you choose your own fish and then they cook it for you?

Enjoy yourselves.

Val


----------



## andrewball1000

Hi Pete and Judy

may I also offer my thanks for your posts. I also will be going to Morocco in May crossing with Delfy and meeting up with Jed. I have been going through your thread and cutting and pasting the notes to take with me in printed form. Most useful and helpful reference material. Thanks. I am off on Tuesday to NW Spain and Portugal


----------



## delfy

*Road to morocco*

Hi Andrew. Glad to know that you are good to go. I 've been struggling to find new tyres. 
Sorted earlier today with 4 Conti Vanco Campers....ouch ...pricey rubber eh? Spent 3 days surfing to find them because lots of us are coming out of hibernation and requiring new tyres. It was a case of plenty of tread but they were old with graining in the sidewalls.
Keep in touch


----------



## peejay

Thanks Andrew, nice to see you all hooking up together to start your trip. Delfy, new tyres are definitely a good idea, we had ours changed about 2 months before we left.

----------------------------------------------


Arrived in Essaouira at lunchtime.

Eventually succumbed and treated myself to another simcard for 200dh(£16). Just means i'll have to stay longer in Morocco to get my moneysworth. 

Managed to bag a spot in the carpark at the entrance to the port, £4 for overnight parking, about 6 motorhomes already here. Great spot overlooking the sea and a few minutes stroll from the town.
Already had an offer of a fish platter for two delivered to the door of the van for tonight inc prawns, sole, shrimp, calimare and scampi for about £8, might be tempted, we'll see. Location is N31.51032 W9.77186

We passed another guardien parking at the southern end of the town by the dunes for about £3 overnight but its a fair walk from the port and next to a busy road N31.49452 W9.76439

Had an initial stroll about this afternoon and medina is lovely, spent too much already.

We're liking it very much here, probably staying a few days.

Pete

ps, while getting my simcard we noticed another guardian parking area where some vans are overnighting, its just opposite the post office and Maroc Telecon main office at the other end of the city walls. N31.51089 W9.76637 so no shortage of safe places to stay instead of a campsite if you prefer that. :wink:


----------



## oldtart

I thought you'd like Essaouira Pete and you've a good reason now for staying a bit longer!.

There's so much to do. Dd you watch the boats coming in and the fishermen cleaning the fish?

From what has been said on the site about the campsite at Essaouira yours probably better off where you are.

Are there any arrangements for water, emptying the cassette etc?

Looking forward to your next posting!

Val


----------



## peejay

oldtart said:


> Are there any arrangements for water, emptying the cassette etc?


No facilities, there is a toilet just around the corner in the port complex where you could empty your loo.

Theres bound to be a tap somewhere, the guardian will know, he directed me to the Maroc Telecom shop.

We're ok as we arrived with a full tank and an empty loo with a spare cassette if needed.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Great. I'm sure the guardien will sort you out if needs be, anyway.

Have a great time. How's the weather? The sun has been shining here for most of the day but it's been cold and windy!

Val


----------



## peejay

Its been warm today but not the usual wall to wall sunshine, had a couple of showers as well.

Sun better be back tomorrow or i'll be complaining to the Maroc tourist office.  

Pete


----------



## tony_g

If you need a break at a decent campsite with showers and all facilities, Camping Les Oliviers, 15 miles inland at Ounara (Ounargah) is pretty good.


----------



## peejay

tony_g said:


> If you need a break at a decent campsite with showers and all facilities, Camping Les Oliviers, 15 miles inland at Ounara (Ounargah) is pretty good.


Thanks Tony, we're fine here, hope your trip is going well.

-------------------------------------

Another day at Essaouira, negotiated a reduced price for the second night with the guardien, 30dh and a bottle of beer, getting into this bartering lark.
Bloke from the fish stall (we called him '24' as that's the number of the fish stall he works at) was eyeing up my sandals and wanted to trade a lobster meal for them, I could probably have got more but i'm quite fond of them, might see if I can tempt him with an old pair of trainers instead later. :lol: 
We've walked for miles today around the souks and are completely cream crackered now. Judy bought an unusual chicken made out of old bearings, a teapot and some bike parts all welded together. Had a nice meal in the square, all in all a great day.

Early start tomorrow, heading up the coast for Souira Kedima.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Super post again, Pete.

Love the rugs photo. They're so colourful, aren't they? We have it as well.

Must remember stall 24 if we ever go to Essaouira again. Do let us know about the deal!

We are off to relations in West Cumbria tomorrow for a few days. No Internet unless I can get it on my phone ,but it's a vey poor signal. 

I look forward to catching up on your travels when we return!

Val
.


----------



## HermanHymer

Judy bought an unusual chicken made out of old bearings said:


> As I was reading this I was wondering what that was gonna taste like!
> 
> Photos lovely! Safe travels!


----------



## peejay

Souira Kedima wasn't too bad, situated overlooking the beach next to a cafe. 30Dh p/n inc electrics if req'd in one part of the aire. Toilet emptying over the road down a manhole and water 5dh per 50ltrs if req'd. Theres also free wifi around the cafe but my dongle worked fine. N32.03951 W9.34190
There was a German Concorde wildcamping about ½ km by the side of the road, which seemed a bit strange to me given the cheap price of the aire.

Today we moved on just up the road to El Beddouza, through Safi passed some really ugly phosphous factories. The R301 runs adjacent to the sea past lots of flat rocky ground. Load of kids along this stretch selling big seashells at the roadside.
This little wildcamp spot is lovely, past the lighthouse and down into a little holiday village which is empty at this time of year apart from day visitors. Nothing here to speak of except a lovely view of the sea, just how we like it. N32.54699 W9.27887.
Sea fairly rough, the suns been out all day but windy this afternoon.
Judy has been on the rocks all afternoon picking mussels and winkles, I've been updating our diaries with photo's, a chill out day.
The sandy/rocky beach and sea is about 20 metres from our door and the sun is just setting now, a beautiful spot.

Pete


----------



## aldra

Loving this thread

Would love todo Morocco

But concerned about the dog

Dont think he would be covered to return to England

aldra


----------



## peejay

aldra said:


> Would love todo Morocco
> 
> But concerned about the dog
> 
> Dont think he would be covered to return to England
> 
> aldra


We haven't got a dog ourselves aldra but I remember reading you can take one without any quarantine worries when returning yo UK, theres a thread about it in the Morocco forum somewhere...

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete and Sandra
I'm sure you'd love Morocco, Sandra. We've been four times now and think the country and the people are wonderful.

We don't have a dog but I'm sure there is. as Pete says, a thread on here,Morocco touring, with info about taking a dog. 

I don't think we've stopped at these last two places, Pete. We are in the camper at Crooklands, near Kendal at the moment so I don't have access to any maps. We have been along that road and remember the factories well.

Did you have the mussels and winkles for tea??!

Please keep posting.

Val


----------



## delfy

*Road to morocco*

Great pics peejay. Do you both use the camera?
Can't wait to get amongst those amazing carpets. The colours are so vibrant. We are marking time at the moment. Cleaning the tanks and airing the bedding. Collected all your GPS co-ordinates and the mifi has arrived and works in remote Wales so with the Maroc sim we will be sorted.
Serious question. Do you feel that a month has given you sufficient time in the country or do you feel that it has been too many miles cramming in as much as you could ? Thanks as ever. Delfy


----------



## delfy

*Road to morocco*

Great pics peejay. Do you both use the camera?
Can't wait to get amongst those amazing carpets. The colours are so vibrant. We are marking time at the moment. Cleaning the tanks and airing the bedding. Collected all your GPS co-ordinates and the mifi has arrived and works in remote Wales so with the Maroc sim we will be sorted.
Serious question. Do you feel that a month has given you sufficient time in the country or do you feel that it has been too many miles cramming in as much as you could ? Thanks as ever. Delfy


----------



## peejay

*Re: Road to morocco*



delfy said:


> Great pics peejay. Do you both use the camera?
> Can't wait to get amongst those amazing carpets. The colours are so vibrant.....
> 
> ...Serious question. Do you feel that a month has given you sufficient time in the country or do you feel that it has been too many miles cramming in as much as you could ?


I usually take most of the proper piccies, Judy usually prefers to take photos of little kittens, stray puppies and horses. :lol:

I would say we did do a bit too much but it was more of a fact finding trip, next time (there definitely will be one!) we will be a bit more organised and be here for longer and have more of an idea which bits not to bother with and stay a lot longer at places we know we should like.

--------------------------------------------------------

Moved on this morning about 10 ish after breakfast and headed up the coast road and we are now at Oualidia, a charming little fishing village with nothing much but a couple of shops and restaurants and 2 large motorhome parking areas overlooking the lagoon, loads of different wading birds here, but haven't a clue what they all are. The 2 parking areas are separated by a pretty little pedestrian bridge which leads from the village across the parking areas then ends abruptly as if they have run out of money to complete it. 
No facilities here but I had just filled up at the Shell garage on the way up and they let me use the tap there to top up. You can also empty your toilet in the beach loos across the road but its a hold your breath job. 
Guardien collects the money in the evenings, 25dh, about £2. N32.73179 W9.04390

We timed our arrival well as all the fishing boats were just returning, all the locals pitch in and help carry the boats up the beach with large poles to spread the load. Most of the catch was squid and huge spider crabs as big as your head. There were a few tables set up on the beach where you can buy whatever they catch and they cook it and serve it up to you. Great atmosphere with loads of hustle and bustle. Judy was straight out onto the rocks and pronounced it as some of the best winkle picking this trip, it was 'winkle city' as she called it.

Had a nice steak tea with fried tatties and salad this evening.

Moving north again tomorrow, not sure exactly where yet though...

Pete


----------



## oldtart

Hi Pete
I think you must have travelled down to the sea. We turned off to the right. 

On two occasions we have stayed by the side of the road overlooking a lagoon where we were able to swim.

Again there were two guardians. We paid 10dirhams and a bottle of beer and stayed a few days.

When we were leaving we asked the guardian where we could empty the cassette. He took it off Dave and came back with it empty. We didn't ask any questions!!!! He was vey happy with a tip and another bottle of beer!

Like you, we saw lots of birds and it was wonderful to see the sea coming in through a gap in the lagoon. We did walk round to an uninhibited palace on the beach. Lots of fishermen coming round selling the fresh fish.

Val


----------



## PeterandLinda

Peejay thanks so much for all the very useful information you have posted about your trip.
Peter and Linda


----------



## jonse

*oualidia*

Like you we stayed there last year on our way home, we then stopped at bin-El-ouidane about 212miles used the site, if you have time visit Cascades d'ouzoud worth a visit the dog loved to bark at the monkeys in the trees then on to khenifra parked at the big petrol station, eat in the restaurant , did a short drive next day to Azrou camping one of D.D.T sites, trouble is it all ends to quick, we were over there for two months, wil be going back for longer next time,enjoy the rest of your trip


----------



## peejay

Heading north again the road from Oalidia to El Jadida (R301) was awful, full of potholes all the way, reminded me a bit of the roads in Turkey. We then had a stretch on our first bit of motorway, pure luxury compared to the previous road, nice and smooth, with just the occasional goat to avoid wandering in the slow lane.
Left the A3 just past Mohamedia and stopped over at a campsite at Mansouriya plage, camping L'Ocean Bleu. 75Dh p/n + 15dh elctrics if req'd. N33.73743 W7.32374
Quite a nice site with well tended pitches and the usual tired but clean facilities.
Was nice and quiet until an Italian tour group pulled in late afternoon, there must have been about 30 vans, all arriving one after the other, wouldn't have liked to be stuck behind that lot on the road.
Nothing much to do in the area but the beach and rocks were nice. They also arrange trips into Casa and Rabat if you fancy, we didn't.
Next day, off again up past Rabat and Sale onto the A1 to Moulay Bousselham and the site by the lagoon, Camping International - 80dh p/n inc leccy N34.87599 W6.28849
Nice site but all the pitches by the lagoon were taken (some bluddy brit called tony-g had taken the last one :lol: ), so pitched in the trees in a nice shady spot.
Judy wants to get the Friday ferry back to Spain, I want to stop a bit longer, so, the Friday ferry it is then!
One more night in Morocco before a slow trip back to UK.

Pete


----------



## oldtart

A shame, Peteand Judy that you are not overlooking the bay. Next time, eh?

I've already posted about the place. Do go to the fish market, if you have time.

It's an interesting drive on the motorway to the port.. We passed people out for stroll, kids crossing the road, some strange vehicles carrying animals! where are you sailing from?

Safe journey, thank you for your posts which have brought back so many happy memories of the places we visited and the wonderful Moroccan people we met on our travels.

Val


----------



## peejay

Val, we're sailing from Tanger Med.

Trying to persuade Judy to stay for a few more days though.....

Pete


----------



## oldtart

I think you and Judy would enjoy Asilah., Pete which you could visit on the way back.

We stayed at no 22 on page 160 of the Vicarious books guide.

Val


----------



## tony_g

Nice site but all the pitches by the lagoon were taken (some bluddy brit called tony-g had taken the last one :lol: ),

Pete[/quote]

Yeah, bagged it a few days ago when the site was ankle deep in red mud and awash with huge puddles. The pitch didn't look so great in the gathering gloom of the late afternoon storm, nor feel so great when the onshore Atlantic gusts were rocking the van overnight. But, like they say - location, location, location. Very few Brits here and the resident French do give the impression that they think they own the place. Can't help feeling they think a Brit at the waters edge is somehow an affront to the natural order of things. Well, Pierre? Haha - get over it!


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## peejay

lol @ tony,

I'm not bitter at all Tony, did I mention I threw a load of bread on the roof of your van while we were chatting, should feed the seagulls nicely early in the morning :lol: 

Know what you mean about the French, have a safe trip back both of you.  

Pete & Judy


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## tony_g

Haha Pete. The wife's already gathered it up for brekky, as cash is running low!
We'll be following on behind you up through Spain and France, once the new windscreen goes in in Seville.

A safe trip to you, to.

Tony & Ginny


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## peejay

Left Moulay Bousselham this morning, would have liked to have stayed longer but the decision is made for the ferry on Friday.
Decided to get as close to Tanger Med as possible so no rushing to the port in the morning. We are overnighting at Ksar el Sghir which is only 10kms from the port. Its in the Vic book but the coords are a bit out. N35.84610 W5.56083 is more accurate. Small parking area by a Gendarmerie post at the entrance to the little port, we asked the policeman if it was ok to overnight as a matter of courtesy, no problem.
Just a 5 minute walk back to the town where we had our last Moroccan meal.
Hamburger and Frites, Chawarma chicken wrap and Frites, 1 humongous salad and a couple of diet cokes all for 71dh (£5.70), we like Morocco!
Just us and an overlander here for the night.

Anyway, a few glasses of Moroccan red tonight and then back to (hopefully) sunny Spain tomorrow...

Pete


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## oldtart

Safe journey, Pete and Judy. Do hope the sea is calm. Looking forward to hearing you've returned safely to Spain.

Val


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## peejay

Customs procedure at Tanger Med port if it helps anyone...

On approach to port follow signposts for 'Embarquement de Vehicles', 'Ventes de Billets'.

1. As you approach the port complex ignore the 'helpers' that try to flag you down unless you want them to do all the legwork for you (for a 'small' fee of course).

2. Park up by the ticket offices and take your tickets to your relevant office, in our case it was the Accione office, they will register the ticket and issue boarding cards.

3. Go through first checkpoint and hand ferry tickets to attendant, he will check them then direct you to drive to the parking area for passport checks.

4. Park up and take all passports and yellow person exit forms to booth where they will be checked and passports stamped.

5. Go to next checkpoint and hand in your 2 x vehicle import/export forms, he will stamp both and hand one back to you.

5. Proceed along dock road for about 1km and stop at next douane point and wait to be waved onto the vehicle scanner ramp. All personnel then have to leave the vehicle while the mobile truck scans the vehicles, about 4 vehicles at a time.

6. Once that is completed drive around the loop to another customs point where they do random checks, we were waved through here.

7. You then leave the customs area and up to the roundabout, take the second exit signposted 'embarquement passagers', don't take the first exit which is for freight.

8. Drive down the road then you will be met by another man who will check your tickets and direct you to the relevant Quai, in our case it was Quai 3.

It sounds complicated but its quite straightforward.



...and here we are wating for the 10 o/c ferry which is just pulling in as we speak.

Pete


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## bob23

Hi Pete,
I have waited till you had finished your tour of Morocco as I wish to give you a very big thank you for going to the time of reporting this trip and the photos one of which is my desktop image.

You have converted me to take this trip before it is to late and I am sure you have sowed a seed for Morocco in many heads.


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## bb46

Ditto Bob23. We have decided to go to Morocco next year based on peejay's excellent travelogue. Thanks peejay and everyone else who has provided so much useful information and whet our appetite for Northern Africa. MHF is the best forum ever.
Barbara


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## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Us again Peejay. We waited for the final Moroccan post so that we have the details for departing at Tanger Med. Kind of knew that you would not have abandoned us at Ksar el Sghir.
It has been a wonderful adventure, lived vicariously with you but now we are about to embark on the real journey ourselves. Countdown is in single figures!! Got goose bumps at the prospect of the whole trip but we couldn't be any better prepared thanks to you both.
Would be very interested to know where your nomadic life takes you next. 
All the best Delfy, aka 2 old girls in a motorhome.


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## costawarrior

*Morocco*

Hi,
We are planning to visit Morocco late September,early October. We are based in Estepona (Malaga) so not far from Algeciras or Tarifa. We have visited Morocco several times in a 4 x 4 but not in a MH.Fancy trying Tarifa - Tangier Med this time (any comments?)
Would like recommendations for good, clean sites - the " other half " won't compromise on cleanliness.


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## delfy

*Road to Morocco*

Hello. We came back last month and our blog lets you see some of the sites we used. If you just focus on the posts for the month of May then our sites are viewable. http://dafnsue.blogspot.co.uk
Having a motorhome makes toilets and showers so much easier if you are unsure of the local facilities.
We avoided the large,trendy sites and if you are visiting cities,make sure you go to the site that you have chosen,not one that a guy on a motor scooter tries to direct you towards!!
Prices for most sites are now almost double what they were when the Morocco Aires book was published but still much cheaper than anywhere else. For us, the best sites were Cheffchaun, Diamanté Vert for Fez, marble everywhere, Azrou in the cherry orchard, Les Ports des Sable at Erg Chebbi, Sidi Kaukai south of Essouira with flowers climbing over the shower block and Moulay Bousselham by the lagoon. The others we used our own. We stayed healthy just be sensible about the water,buy bottled to drink but washing and cooking came from our tank.
Have a wonderful time. Delfy


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