# Off to Giverney and Somme.



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Finally after 3 years of van idleness we plan on visiting Giverney and Monets Gardens next week.

First, does anyone know if the area beside the coach park is still available to overnight for campers?
Second, any advice or recommendations on the visit?

We then plan on heading to The Somme Battlefields. Albert seems a nice central point and as the local site has Wi-Fi I might stay there a while.

Again any suggestions to try and take in as much as possible please?

Ray.


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## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

> Finally after 3 years of van idleness we plan on visiting Giverney and Monets Gardens next week.
> 
> First, does anyone know if the area beside the coach park is still available to overnight for campers?
> Second, any advice or recommendations on the visit?
> ...


The Albert site (Velodrome) is OK - nice walk from there by the lake.

If you fancy a nice meal out, the Hotel Basilique in Albert is superb - you will have to book.

Many of the big Somme cemeteries are very thought provoking and the sheer scale and numbers of headstones very sad but if you want to see something special, well I think it's special, find your way to the Railway Hollow cemetery. It's at 50.10612, 2.65555. you turn off the Serre Road, up a track at 50.10038, 2.65892.

It pays to read up a little on the battle for Serre - from that cemetery it's so easy to imagine the British soldiers charging up the hill into the machine gun fire. They are buried where they fell.

I've been there a number of times and each time when I stand and look down into the hollow I swear I can hear gunfire and shouting.

Get there as early as you can in the morning, it's on the school children's tour itinerary.

If you're interested in the huge underground mines laid by both British and German tunnelers, then the only one remaining visible now is the Lochnager Mine at 50.01625, 2.69718 just outside Albert. Narrowish approach road but tour buses go there.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks Tony.
Yes the Velodrome was where I planned on staying at least a couple of nights. We plan on a week at least around the battlefields area.

Will take you recommendation on the Hotel in Albert. Although my wife likes to cook mostly.

I have visions of trying to get round many of these cemetaries in the video..............
http://www.ww1battlefields.co.uk/somme.html

Ray.

p.s. There is a small ride in a munitions train at Froissy I was also planning to visit.


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## charlieivan (Apr 25, 2006)

We were there last year and will be back again in a week or so. The large aire at Le Crotoy is good and lots of excellent cycle paths with waymarked routes. There are also several acsi sites in the area. We cycled around many of the WW1 sites and cemeteries having picked up information leaflets from local tourist information office. Excellent ride along canal from Saint-Valery-sur-somme. 

Whilst in the area have a look at the Chinese Cemetry situated in Noyelles-sur-mer in the Baie-de-Somme. A very interesting story about the Chinese civilians and their part in the war.


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## adonisito (Nov 6, 2009)

Visit Monet's gardens as early as possible in the morning, we did, and were amazed at the crowds as we left about 11am. There were vans in the parking area, I don't think you'll have many problems. However, there are prettier gardens around, this one is hyped up a little obviously.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

charlieivan said:


> We were there last year and will be back again in a week or so. The large aire at Le Crotoy is good and lots of excellent cycle paths with waymarked routes. There are also several acsi sites in the area. We cycled around many of the WW1 sites and cemeteries having picked up information leaflets from local tourist information office. Excellent ride along canal from Saint-Valery-sur-somme.
> 
> Whilst in the area have a look at the Chinese Cemetry situated in Noyelles-sur-mer in the Baie-de-Somme. A very interesting story about the Chinese civilians and their part in the war.


Thanks Charlie.
But I think Le Crotoy is just a tad far from Albert, Amiens and the 'action'. 
I think we need to find a comfy central point and visit from there.

Ray.


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## dally1 (Jul 1, 2010)

We were at Giverney about 3 years ago. Parking wasn't a problem altho we didn't stay the night it was clear others had.

Gardens are ok but a little too informal for me. The head gardener then, was actually an Englishman. Nice walk into the village and if you walk to the cemetery where Monet is buried there is also a communial CWGC grave for a bomber crew lost in the area. If I remember correctly, the bomber came down and the locals recovered the crew and buried them in the cemetery before the Germans got there. Still beautifully cared for by the locals.

We love the Somme. Sandra and I have visited about 400 CWGC on the Western Front but we still think the Somme has the edge on the other battlefields. We have stayed at a site in Authuille which I think is called Bellevue. It's right in the battlefield and did have trenches running through it during the war. A bit expensive tho.

The cemetery in the village has had the tag of the prettiest cemetery in the Somme but of course that's for individuals to decide. Are you familiar with a song sung by the Furuys called "The Green Fields of France"? it's about the grave of a young soldier called Willie Mcbride. There are 2 Willie Mcbride's in the cemetery and the song was supposed to have been written about one of them.

No matter which cemeteries you visit you'll be staggered, humbled and most likely emotional. If you go searching for answers then I promise you will end up with far more questions that answers. Truly amazing place. Would love to know how you got on, once you have finished you visit.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks Dally, will put finger to keys as and when.

We live not too far from the D-day landings and have visited many times over the years. I always think what a terrible waste of life.

My farther died in a Lancaster during WW2 so I will definately visit that cemetery.

Thanks Ray.


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## dalspa (Jul 1, 2008)

Ray,
We went to Giverny this time last year - it was a last minute decision to go there when we were in the area. Were going to stay on a site a few km away and bike to the gardens the next day, but then decided to go and drive there to see if it was bikeable. Drove into the car park where the buses pull in and the attendant said it was a bit late to go into the gardens so park up for the night (free) and visit tomorrow. This we did, along with a few other vans. We were then able to get in as soon as it opened the next day. Gets very busy very quickly. Didn't rate it, but then I'm not really into gardens.
Albert is a good base for the area. The Canadian trenches (Beaumont-Hamel?) nearby is well worth a visit, also Thiepval and the crater (as already mentioned), and the museum in Albert. We did all of the sights on our bikes whilst based in Albert (wife doesn't bike far) but remember when we arrived at the Canadian site the girls there, on asking where we were from and telling them "England" they asked if we had come all the way on our bikes! 

DavidL


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## charlieivan (Apr 25, 2006)

We spent a few days in Albert and stayed on the municipal site which looks as if it is the one you are planning to go to. On our travels out from the site and visiting many of the memorial sites and cemeteries we came across "Le Tommy" restaurant and museum in a little village called Pozieres. Very close to the Australian memorial and Gibralter Tank memorial and about half mile from the British cemetery and memorial. Well worth a visit as it is lined with photographs and stories relating to WW1. Try to time your visit for lunchtime and you won't be disappointed.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks again to all advice and suggestions. Have listed places to visit and printed off plans and sites. Not sure if and when we will have internet as wi-fi is my only option.

Thanks to all Ray.


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## Kev1 (Apr 4, 2011)

We stayed overnight two years ago (free)
The car park is locked over night but the very nice car park attendant was very friendly
Kev


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Kev1 said:


> We stayed overnight two years ago (free)
> The car park is locked over night but the very nice car park attendant was very friendly
> Kev


Yep Kev. Still free and friendly.
Just left today after two nights and now in Abert the Somme.
Pouring with rain and no Sky signal at the Velodrome site.

But off on the route de rememberence tomorrow.

Ray.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Just in case anyone wants to know we had a great time and are back...... Ray.

Our little trip to Giverney got off to a late start as I developed 'Man-Flue' and had to delay by one day the off.
Tuesday dawned gray and gloomy but off we were going. It then poured for the first hour into the trip and only eased up after we passed Caen.
The 275 km to Giverney was religiously followed on Garmin. I was a little worried as the last few km were down farm tracks and peoples back lanes. But we arrived safe and sound a little after 3pm.

The parking has changed slightly in as much as campers are not allowed in the car parks opposite the ticket office. I guess quite rightly as campers do have their own dedicated area of gravel roads and grass pitches beside the coach park. All clean, quiet and secure.
This area could hold 50 campers parked with some consideration. As always there is one parked so taking 6 places and one that allows their dog, a great big Alsatian to poop just where and wherever it likes without ever attempting to pick up.

It was nearly the end of the commercial day so we strolled up to the booking office about 4.30 pm and after only 5 mins bought our tickets for the next day. €9.50 each and no discounts for OAPs.
A stroll round the few shops and buy a few postcards. A drink and some crap chips and back to the parking area. Sky was set up in minutes to keep up with UK news.

First time we had slept in the van for 5 years. Oh gosh what difficulties. Going from a 5ft bed to a 4 ft bed. But we were warm enough and managed a good night till 7.15 am. the next morning. Then the fun started again with the shower.
Ready by 9 and off to the entrance. Misty and overcast soon gave way to hazy sun and quite bright.
We were nearly first into the gardens and taking pictures at every turn before the hoards came in and blocked the wonderful views.
A quick underground passage and into the Water Gardens which are absolutely stunning. Apparently Monet had to get permission to alter the course of a small stream to create the lakes and tributaries that now reveal such wonderful and colourful watery glades.
Well worth the entry fee even before we entered the house. The house is much as Monet left it. And looking at the ancient electrics nothing has been modernised since his death in 1926.

Sadly it was all over by 11.30 after buying the necessary trinket and souvenir. Off now to the very respectable restaurant beside the Monet Museum. A brilliant meal in superb surroundings and not too expensive.
The whole village is in reality a marvelous tourist trap and goldmine. Any resident with a frontage onto any road is not a shop selling high priced tack.

After lunch we strolled in the very warm sunshine up the hill another 300 yds to the old Giverny church. Partly to see Monets family tomb and partly to see the memorial and grave of the Lancaster bomber crew who perished there in 1943 (I think). Very poignant and tranquil.

The sun was belting down still at 4pm so I went back to the van and fired up the inverter to charge the depleted camera batteries and get the sky sat working again. Then sit out and sun ourselves in the evening warmth.
A brisk walk back to the tourist office to use their Wi-Fi check mail only to find it was out of order and no idea when it might function again.

Thursday bright and early we got ourselves together and left the site around 8.30. It was May 1, we needed to exchange an empty gas bottle so attempted to call into any supermarket we passed only to find every one closed.
Sometime later when well on the way to Albert our next stop, we tried to find an open boulangerie. Nearly all were closed and we were almost at Albert before finding one that was actually open. Even then as it was 11.30 am they had almost sold out of everything and we had to be content with the last baguette and an enormous strawberry gateau.

But the campsite Velodrome in Albert was excellent. Easy to find, easy access, well laid out and clean. We have chosen to stay maybe three or four nights. No one in the office afternoons so just pitch up and check in later.
We chose a pitch near the office and found we could get Wi-Fi in the van. But getting a Sky signal took another day. They say there is only 3 amps power but we must have had 12 amps at times.
Lots of Brits and Dutch campers. We found we were next to a couple \sue and Mike from Leicester who had spent three weeks in Spain and been robbed of their rucksack which had laptop, cameras and tablet in with all their pictures. Very sad and annoying but as always it could have been worse.

First day in The Somme we managed to visit The Lochnagar Crater, The Franco/British Memorial at Thiepval, The Ulster Tower and the Canadian memorial Beaumont-Hamel, all chased by 4 or 6 coaches filled with kids. Yuck.!!!
Then at the end of an exhausting touring day we managed some provisions shopping, new gas bottle and top up with fuel.

Finally that evening we managed to get locked onto the Sky sat. So now we had Wi-Fi, Sky and all electric.

Up early to say good by to the couple in the van next door who had been robbed in Spain.
We walked into the local town of Albert as it has a museum and Saturday is market day.
Sadly we never made the market as the museum is so good and informative. It's all subterranean and depicted through a maze of tunnels giving a real feel of 'trench warfare'. We surfaced close to midday and lunch was calling. So just enough time to peruse some pointless 'gift' shop and buy a baguette and back to the van for lunch.

After lunch it was so sunny we decided to continue the cemetery route. So off to several British cemeteries and then onto various allies like Australian and Canadian cemeteries. We met a couple on bikes who seemed to have visited far more than us and were still going. They gave us some advice and where the next cemetery was.

Back to the ranch about 5pm. and various neighbours had changed. Getting the hang of setting up and UK TV, internet and power all on in minutes. Poured the wine ready for another evening camper watching.

Sunday we planned on visiting the little munitions train at Foissy. But to kill time in the morning we had been advised to visit a small but poignant cemetery by friends (mhf Tony).
We arrived just as three coach loads of British school children also arrived. We parked in a corner of a field and walked up to the first cemetery. As the school group came up their guide/teacher, a retired Major was giving a very animated and clear commentary on this part of the war. I was mesmerized and sat down with the students to take in as much history as I could. I learnt so much about the early days of the war that I had never considered and then could see how the massive carnage ensued.
As we were then visiting a couple more small cemeteries nearby, the farmer came up and asked if it was our camper parked on his field? Oh golly, anything to keep the peace, I said I would move it immediately.
So leaving Prue and the students I went and moved the van between a couple of coaches. They immediately said it was not advised to park directly in front of the cemetery. I mentioned the farmer and they immediately understood and said he was off his head and had threatened some other tourists with a shotgun for looking for souvenirs on his land.
We also learnt that only a few weeks ago someone had blown himself up by digging up some old munitions.

Anyway after a short lunch outside yet another cemetery just along the road we headed off to Foissy and the little train.
Arriving just after 2pm we saw a plume of smoke and ran to the ticket office. Bought our tickets and were immediately ushered inside the last carriage which was empty. 
This was a good move as it happens. We could see both sides and even hang out the open door to get a better view. A brilliant afternoon immersed in the history of narrow gage trains used in war.

Back to the site stopping at a couple more cemeteries on the way. It's impossible to not pass one or more along every road.
I settled up with the site owner and was pleasantly surprised that after 4 nights it only came to €56.

We had opted to head for Belgium and The Menin Gate at Ypes or Leper as it's called now. So a quick shop to top up provisions and just after midday we pulled into the cobbled streets of Leper. 
The town is somewhat confusing as most streets are one way and lined with parked cars. We did manage to negotiate around the central square and actually pass under the monument of The Menin Gate before finding a free and quiet parking spot beside a canal only 300m. from the town centre.
But after backing in and getting level my helpful assistant started raising all sorts of reasons why we should not stay the night there.
So off to the local campsite and €16 later we were squeezed into little more than a car park with dozens of other campers and a cement factory just behind us.
Even though we can get Sky between the trees and it is only a 10 min walk into the town centre, I don't think we can stay another night.

We strolled into town and took pictures of the Gate without the crowds. Also the central square with banks and restaurants all round. 
But the highlight of the visit is the daily ceremony at 8pm. where volunteer firemen sound the last post come rain or sun.
Tonight's event was slightly special as a Scottish Piper was present and dozens of groups were laying wreaths.

We left by 9am next morning as it started to rain and on off showers were forecast all day. After extricating ourselves from the centre of Leper as road works had created many diversions down very small cobbled streets. We decided to head sw to Crotoy on the Baye de la Somme that had been recommended to us by other campers. It rained on and off all the journey.
A vast parking area just behind the dunes and within easy walking distance to the seaside town found us there by 1 pm. So parking between some other campers we had lunch. But apart from only €5 for 24 hours there was little to recommend this air on a good day. We sat there in the rain watching many van owners walking their wet and smelly dogs around the sandy park.

As there was little to keep us there and the prospect of sitting beside 70 other campers did not appeal, we headed off south and in the direction of Dieppe. I remembered there was a nice air beside the port and again within walking distance of the town.
4pm we pulled into a good hard parking area beside the ferry terminal. As the weather brightened up we donned coats and walked across the swing bridge into town. Again the heavens opened and sent us currying back to the van as soon as the swing bridge had swung!!


We left Dieppe by 9am again in gloomy skies. Decided to head for home as we had seen all the sights we had intended and now were looking forward to a proper shower and bed.
But after only an hour the sun was shining and we decided to take lunch in Honfleur. The last time we were in Honfleur must have been 25 years ago and Prue was sick and spent the time in bed. 
So pulling into the air beside the canal we managed to get the number one spot looking up the waterway and out across to the town.
Lunch was devoured by 2 pm and as it was so nice we decided to stay overnight and head home the next day.
So plugging into the electric and setting up the Sky sat we were all set to make camp for 24 hours. Then the wind picked up and blew the dish over breaking the LNB. That's it I though we will take a quick look round the town and head home.
An hour later we came back and found a fine for not paying and displaying the €10 ticket for camping. Grrrrrrrr. That was the third thing to go wrong today so home we went.
I have sent an 'e' to Honfleur Mairie and explained we only stopped a short while and would be happy to pay a pro rata fee. Will see what that brings.

Home by 6pm and 2 hours later had unloaded all the things we took with us and never needed.

That's it so far.
Ray.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

A couple of calls to the Mairie in Honfleur today resulted in our parking penalty being recinded. I was prepared to send them the €10 but they said not necessary.....  

Ray.


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

tonyt said:


> > Finally after 3 years of van idleness we plan on visiting Giverney and Monets Gardens next week.
> >
> > First, does anyone know if the area beside the coach park is still available to overnight for campers?
> > Second, any advice or recommendations on the visit?
> ...


Hello again Tony.
Just back from our second foray to Honfleur and Albert this year.
Your recommendation of the hotel Basilique was spot on and agreed highly recommended.
Thanks again.

Ray.


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## Tucano (Jun 9, 2006)

Ray,
We were at Bellevue in Authuille last week, 16 Euros a night and a really friendly owner, he wanted us to eat all of his chocolates but 4 was enough. It is about 1.5 miles from Thiepval which is a must to visit, also the Ulster memorial which is close by.
Ypres and the last post ceremony is worth seeing with a great campsite close by and the Flanders Field museum in the cloth hall.
Talbot House in Poperinghe is very interesting also, Vimy Ridge is a must also in my opinion but I think can't help on the artistic stuff though.
Have a good trip.
Norman.


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## Tucano (Jun 9, 2006)

Just realized that this topic is/was two years old :$


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## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Tucano said:


> Just realized that this topic is/was two years old :$


How do you get two years Tuc..??
It was March 2014 when we first went.

Ray.


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## Tucano (Jun 9, 2006)

Ray you are correct, err were was I what was I saying :-/


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