# Fridge woes



## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Following the first trip out in our 1990 Autosleeper, we have an issue with the fridge. It is an Electrolux, cannot find a model number. The m/h has only covered 24,000 miles so little used.

When I bought the MH a couple of months ago, the seller (seems honest) assumed me it all worked. I did test the gas before buying and I got pilot light to light. It also worked fine on 240 electric.

1/ The night before leaving, switched it on to 240v. Nice and cold in morning.

2/ On first leg of journey, it worked ok on 12v. At least I think it did: it was still cold when we arrived a few hours later.

3/ tried to go to gas on arrival (wild camping). I switched the power switch to off (as opposed to 240v or 12v). I switched the ignition switch on, turned the gas knob to '3' and pressed in. I heard the ignition crack three or four times then stop. Ah, I though, it has worked. But no pilot light.

I tried a number of times, but then the ignition wouldn't 'crack'. Fuse ok, as this same fuse operated the water tank gauge, and that was working fine. I have tried it a few times since: the ignition 'cracks' maybe once for twice and then stops.

4/ Next day, the 12v didn't seem to work either.

Gave up and just used it as a cupboard :lol: 

Any ideas please?

Thanks.

PS: yes there is gas and it is switched on!

PPS: I don't know if it is connected, but the 'no charge' light on the dash is on dimly. The vehicle and leisure batteries seem to charge without issue though.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

This may be teaching Grandma to suck eggs Richard, but did you keep the knob pressed for a good few seconds after it appeared to light.

The thermocouple safety cutoff device has to heat up thoroughly, or it will cut off the gas when you let go.

I expect you knew that, but worth mentioning!  

Dave


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks Dave: yes I did. The problem (I think) is that the ignition stopped trying to light before it should. Shouldn't the ignition keep trying to light until it does actually light?


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Ours does!

I wonder if your thermocouple is stuffed? They do have a finite lifespan, and sometimes develop a tiny hairline crack and give up the ghost. Or it may be out of position, with the same effect?

Not much help I'm afraid, but one of our service engineer members may be able to offer a more useful suggestion. With their experience they may be able to say, "Ah yes, that will be . . . . . "

You could try holding down the knob for at least a minute, then (_while still holding it down_) get your navigator to go outside and carefully smell the vent. It's quite easy to detect the smell of burnt gas - and if she is reluctant you could swap roles and do the sniffing yourself. :wink:

This would indicate if the gas was lighting, but switching off again as soon as you let go the knob. Gas appliances can be very stubborn, and I have a quick sniff if I am unsure if (say) the water heater has ignited.

Dave


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Zebedee said:


> You could try holding down the knob for at least a minute, then (_while still holding it down_) get your navigator to go outside and carefully smell the vent. It's quite easy to detect the smell of burnt gas - and if she is reluctant you could swap roles and do the sniffing yourself. :wink:


As my fridge is next to the door, I could do the knob pushing and sniffing by myself. Yes, there is gas there (and now I feel sick).

You mentioned about the thermocouple. How could I check this? Where, in fact, is it?

One of these?

I don't know my model number, any idea how I could find out?

Thanks again.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Richard

Was the gas you smelled burned, or unburned?

If it was burned that might suggest the thermocouple is not working, since the flame would have lit and stayed alight while you were holding down the knob. When you released the knob the flame would have gone out if the thermocouple is dead.

(If it was unburned it tells us the igniter isn't working, so the thermocouple may be perfectly OK.)

The picture is of a thermocouple, and I would suggest you ask Mr Google to find the other details you need. I expect there will be plenty of information on the Dometic website, and possibly exploded diagrams so you can learn how to dismantle the parts you need to get at the burner.

I've never had to do one so I can't help much more, but if you are lucky (?) you may be able to get at what you need through the vents on the outside wall of the van. I know the theory . . . but the practice is another matter altogether.

Dave


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Zebedee said:


> Was the gas you smelled burned, or unburned


Please don't ask me to sniff it again  :lol:

The igniter switch did nothing this morning (dead) so I'm assuming it was unburnt.

Could it be the igniter? How does that work?


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Richard_M said:


> Could it be the igniter? How does that work?


Again, I know the theory Richard, but that ain't much help to you. :roll:

I think you will have to wait for help from a practical expert rather than a theorist. 

Feel free to bump your post occasionally if none of them respond. :wink:

Dave


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## spykal (May 9, 2005)

Hi

Here are a few links to old threads about similar problems that may help your understanding of what does what,where and how :wink:

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-621244.html#621244

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-610070.html#610070

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-352372.html#352372

Mike


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

spykal said:


> Hi
> 
> Here are a few links to old threads about similar problems that may help your understanding of what does what,where and how :wink:
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike.

I have read all of those threads now (and all of the threads linked off those threads, and the threads linked etc etc).

I *think* my issue is the igniter. I have gas coming through. It did work when I bought it a couple of months ago and it hasn't had any use since.

I'm guessing maybe something is loose somewhere....? Could it be a loose wire....? The fact that the igniter is sometimes dead, sometimes works for a few cracks, sometimes less, seems to say to me that there is an intermittent fault somewhere. But where....?

Does this sound plausible...?

(I haven't looked at the not working on 12v issue yet. Could it be connected...........? The 'fridge on 12v' LED comes on on the Zig unit).

Thanks.


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Richard_M said:


> spykal said:
> 
> 
> > Hi
> ...


Can everyone see my reply above? It has been mentioned to me that some might not be able to see it.

(Then again, if that is true then you will not be able to see this post either......)


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Richard

Spykal and I have fixed it. (_Don't ask - it's complicated_! :roll: )

The only suggestions we can add is to pull the vent covers off and firtle about inside - *carefully*!

Just make sure everything is clean and all the connections you can access are tight. The spark may be trying to jump too far, so check that your setup looks like the pictures in Mike's links . . . with the gas switched OFF for safety. With no gas coming through it should carry on sparking continuously until you switch off the igniter.

Failing that I think our best advice is to take it to a professional. Unless one is well qualified and very confident, gas is not something to fiddle with to any degree. Check the connections and the spark gap - but I'd suggest you don't delve much deeper.

Dave


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## BillCreer (Jan 23, 2010)

Hi,
re. your item 4. I assume you are aware that the fridge will only work in 12V mode when the van engine is running.

The pilot light should be playing on to one end of the thermocouple. If you follow the thermocouple then it should go into the spark generator.


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## kandsservices (Sep 5, 2010)

It could be a number of things wrong with your fridge the model number is normally on a sticker inside the fridge sometimes behind the salad bowl.As far as the 12 volts goes your fridge only works when the engine is running and the power is via a relay as you say in your post you have a dim warning lamp on the dash i would get that checked out as it could be your alternator playing up.As far as the gas problem it could be a lot of things if you have gas but no spark it could be the ignitor box or even the high tension cable the spark gap as zebedee has already said i would get it checked out at your local dealer or even a mobile chap.
kev


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. I shall have a look tomorrow.........

PS: I know the 12v only works when the engine is running.


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

Two thoughts:-
If the van is almost 'new' from a decent supplier, have you considered taking it back for them to have a look at?
With our old van, when problems like yours arose, we would open the flap or take off the bottom panel outside and use an extended gas lighter while someone held the button in, if the thermocouple is ok then it should light, meaning the ignition is the problem. In our case it was invarioubly dirt on the igniter which once lit worked again next time. Our present van is like your system and sometimes it takes an age for the gas to come through.
Good luck!
Alan


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks for the ideas.

It is 21 years old (so not new) but has only done 24,000 miles (so maybe less used than many MHs only a few years old).

Oh, to be only 21 again with that few miles on the clock


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Right, I have now spent some time looking at this problem.

Model number: RM 212.

I have sorted the non-ignition issue: poor connection!

However, although the thing lights now it will not stay alight. a couple of photos of the flame (with button held pressed in):



















As soon as I let go of the button, it goes out. Any ideas please?

Also, re: 12v issue. With fridge switched off (and engine running), I get 13v across the terminals on the fridge. When the fridge is switched on (12v), it drops to 11v. Is this correct?

Thanks.


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Anyone please?


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## clive1821 (Mar 27, 2010)

Yes the flame is far to low, just take out the jet and clean or replace all will be better... The burner is alight and therefor the thermocouple let's the burner work all be it low... Hope that helps...


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks.

You say it is too low, but (in the first photo) the flame has an orange part which goes up past the thermocouple....


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

I'd expect to see the thermocouple glowing a dull red.

It may be of course, if it was quite bright when you took the photo. :? 

If the thermocouple is well in the flame, and getting good and hot, that would suggest that it is busted. If it does have a hairline crack I doubt if you would see it, and given it's vintage it may well have expired simply due to old age!

If the igniter works and the flame stays alight while you keep the knob depressed, there isn't much else that can be wrong.

Dave


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Zebedee said:


> I'd expect to see the thermocouple glowing a dull red.


It did. I cannot see how else to adjust it anyway (left to right).

As the fridge did stay alight when I bought the m/h, maybe driving (and bumping over uneven roads) since I have owned it may have cracked it............?


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

*sigh*

I just emailed a seller (dealer) on eBay about if a thermocouple he is selling will fit my fridge, and he said:

"No and unfortunately the rm212 thermocouple is no longer available"

Am I stuffed?


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Richard_M said:


> *sigh*
> 
> I just emailed a seller (dealer) on eBay about if a thermocouple he is selling will fit my fridge, and he said:
> 
> ...


Take the old one off and try some central heating suppliers, like Plumb Centre.

The bit in the flame will be a standard threaded fit I expect, and they are mostly all of a similar size and shape.

The other end is the crucial fitting, and somebody at Plumb Centre may be able to find a substitute that will work.

Worth a try - they are not expensive.

Dave


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## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Richard_M said:


> *sigh*
> 
> I just emailed a seller (dealer) on eBay about if a thermocouple he is selling will fit my fridge, and he said:
> 
> ...


Mr. Google thinks they are still available http://www.inter-spares.co.uk/elect...spare-parts/rm212/thermocouple-1-2-3-4-5.html quite pricey though!


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

£80!


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Can't be £80 surely!!

The last one I bought, admittedly for a domestic central heating boiler, was about a fiver.

>> This << may be what you need, and for £8.77 (inc VAT) it's more like a sensible price.

A phone call in the morning would find out.

Dave


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Zebedee said:


> >> This << may be what you need, and for £8.77 (inc VAT) it's more like a sensible price.


That's excellent, thanks! I wonder how I could find out if it would fit, if they don't know.

Also, anyone have any ideas on my 12v issue?



> Also, re: 12v issue. With fridge switched off (and engine running), I get 13v across the terminals on the fridge. When the fridge is switched on (12v), it drops to 11v. Is this correct?


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Argh! I called them and they said it *should* fit but they thought that it might not reach. I'm at work for the next couple of days so I cannot measure how long it needs to be.

Any chance anyone out might know the answer? Long shot I know.


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

I'm wondering if my flame is too small.........


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## doesie (Sep 15, 2010)

Hello there. I have a Dometic fridge model 6270 - model umber is on a plate stuck inside the fridge. I was unable to use fridge on gas - and engineer replaced the selector switch, a "known fault" on this model of Dometic frdige. So, may be worth considering this?


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## Richard_M (Dec 17, 2010)

Woooohoooooo!

Fixed it!

It was oh so simple in the end.

The igniter was just a poor connection.

The gas wouldn't stay lit because the flame was too small to heat the thermocouple. The flame was too small because the plastic knob you pushed in was worn and not pushing in as far as it should. A bit of folded tin foil inside the knob meant it pushed in further, so bigger flame, so heating the thermocouple, so it stays alight!

Less than 5 minutes to fix and no money spent!  

Just need to sort the 12v issue now: I think that is because the vehicle is not charging correctly so I will look at that next week.

Thanks to everyone who replied to the thread


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## VOLKSLT (Dec 13, 2008)

*Fridge*

Hi Richard, To confirm that the thermocoupler is faulty or the igniter I had same problem .I took grill off and lit pilot with long gas lighter , that confirmed that I had gas and fridge worked .If it stays lit your coupler is alright so ignighter faulty


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