# Cost to have roof light resealed



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

anyone any rough idea of what it costs to have a roof light resealed. I get water pooling around the base of the roof light and in heavy rain . 
(I'm in Somerset) , water drips in.
Cheers
David


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

dw1 said:


> anyone any rough idea of what it costs to have a roof light resealed. I get water pooling around the base of the roof light and in heavy rain .
> (I'm in Somerset) , water drips in.
> Cheers
> David


It's a DIY job Dave, if you're fit enough to climb a step ladder and you can reach it there should be a few screws holding it down, possibly covered in mastic, remove those, lift of the vent carefully, you might need a scraper to break the bond, then scrape of the old stuff, lay down some more NONE setting mastic either from a roll, or the tube type to decent thickness, about 10mm then bed the vent back down and replace the screws, re-seal the screw heads.

You don't say the make and model of the roof light, there are instructions for most on the net, probably a vid on youtube for yours.

Look here maybe different to yours but the same principal


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

As Kev says it is a relatively straightforward job if you are reasonably handy. Depending on the make of rooflight the retaining screws may be accessed from inside the van rather than on the roof.

I don't have any idea of the cost if you did decide to have it done for you but don't forget when shopping round that you don't have to go to a motorhome specialist. Any decent caravan repairer will be able to do it for you (possibly even a mobile repairer if there is one in your area).

Phil


----------



## TheNomad (Aug 12, 2013)

It's a very very simple job.

Cost?

As others have said, I'd reckon on one tube of non setting mastic, and about an hour of your time. 

Or perhaps 30 or 40 quid for a motorhome/caravan techie to do it for you?


----------



## inkey-2008 (May 24, 2008)

If you take it to a dealer you would be looking at about 1 hour labour plus parts not much change from £100 if they don't hang about.

If that is all it is, if it has been leaking a long time you may have wet rot issues to deal with.

This is a good reason to sort out drips ASAP.

Good luck make sure you get a non-setting mastic and be generous with it
, I always leave a small fillet around the edge of the skylight to push water away.

Andy


----------



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

Many thanks, it's a rooflight on a Burstner elegance - I'll have a look on you tube- I can get up a ladder and am even better at getting down- so I'll give it a go. 
You don't use silaflex then, but a non drying mastic?
Appreciate the advice!!
David


----------



## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Martin Edwards http://www.mreservices.co.uk/ is a local (Somerset based) mobile caravan and MH engineer. If you're not up for the DIY route, Martin may be able to help.


----------



## inkey-2008 (May 24, 2008)

I have a Burstner and all the roof lights are fixed on the inside be careful they are easy to break and expensive to replace. Saying that it is not beyond a capable DIYer.

Make sure you clean the joints well and the roof where it sits. WD40 is good for removing mastic. but make sure you clean all the WD40 off with degreaser before putting on the mastic.

Andy


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

inkey-2008 said:


> I have a Burstner and all the roof lights are fixed on the inside be careful they are easy to break and expensive to replace. Saying that it is not beyond a capable DIYer.
> 
> Make sure you clean the joints well and the roof where it sits. WD40 is good for removing mastic. but make sure you clean all the WD40 off with degreaser before putting on the mastic.
> 
> ...


----------



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

*Photos*

I think the rooflight is a Heki, and I'm adding a few photos. If I can remember how to add them !!
Any additional advice welcomed!
Cheers
David


----------



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

*Rooflight*

Hope these work!!


----------



## JackieP (Oct 15, 2006)

If you've got loads of dosh then fair enough, spread your wealth around, but personally, it would break my heart to give money to someone to do a job like this. Pick a sunny (lol) dry (lol) day, get all your gear together and just go for it. As others have said, the hardest (but very satisfying) bit is scraping off the old sealant. You'll have such a sense of achievement when you're done. Good luck!


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Looks like heki to me, when scraping off the old mastic, use something like a freezer ice scraper, as you done want to gouge into the roof, an old wallpaper scraper might do, if it has no sharp edges.

See attached PDF they might help you.

I have a parts PDF if anyone needs it, but it's to big to post, it might be on the net somewhere though.


----------



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

Not got lots of dish - got loads of bills though!! So self help it will be!
Thanks for the PDF file. I can't make out where the main fixing screws are - anyone know? Don't seem to be any on the underneath of the frame.
Cheers all and thanks for the help.
David


----------



## kimbo4x4 (Jun 29, 2008)

Fiitng instructions here. Removal is reverse :? Heki

When I replaced 2 roof lights on our Hymer I found it easier to use the sealer that comes on a roll. There are two widths. A quick search on EBay and you,ll find it.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

kimbo4x4 said:


> Fiitng instructions here. Removal is reverse :? Heki
> 
> When I replaced 2 roof lights on our Hymer I found it easier to use the sealer that comes on a roll. There are two widths. A quick search on EBay and you,ll find it.


I'll second that, it's a lot firmer so doesn't all squeeze out when you tighten the screws.

I should add I am no expert and that I had a few leaks on mine and I had the think a bit laterally.

I didn't want to remove and re-seal the Heki so with it wide open I stood inside it and worked that way, first I removed as much as I could of the mastic, then once cleaned up with panel wipe, I forced as much tube mastic in as possible, then wiped the excess away, and went over it with the thinnest covering of Stixall, and using a spit moistened finger smoothed it out, it has not leaked since, I even attacked it with a hose on full blast, no problem.

Due to the lid I couldn't get to the front/hinged part, so that is still just mastic, but the leak was from the back and side due mainly to how it sits when parked at home, the water just has time to seep through, not forgetting that mine is a panel van and the roof is not flat so fillets were needed to get it roughly flat prior to fitting.


----------



## JackieP (Oct 15, 2006)

Depending on how bad the problem is, then maybe the above solution could be tried first? It might be all that's needed and would save you the stress of having to remove the whole thing.


----------



## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

The perforated patterned strips on the inside/sides pop off to reveal the fixings. As the external parts are exposed to the sun, beware of them becoming brittle.
As already said... do not break the main plastic dome, it costs real money.

Alan


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

rosalan said:


> The perforated patterned strips on the inside/sides pop off to reveal the fixings. As the external parts are exposed to the sun, beware of them becoming brittle.
> As already said... do not break the main plastic dome, it costs real money.
> 
> Alan


OH yes I forgot about BRITTLE, have a Mitre super glue kit standing by, it use an activator and is an instant fix, so keep all the tiny (if any) broken bits for gluing up once the main job is done, I'm a clumsy sod and broke mine a in a few places, nothing important just the thin top bits, now super glued and you can't tell.

Mitre super glue kit read the description for how it works& is used


----------



## dw1 (Sep 9, 2010)

I'll wait for better weather, if ever, and then have a go. I'll let you know how I get on!!
Cheers
David


----------

