# Solo trip around Iceland



## Morphology

No Iceland-specific country forum, so I'll post this here.

I'm just back from a 10-Day Solo trip to Iceland, and thought some might be interested in the costs etc.

As far as I know, the only way I could have got there with my own 'van would have been ferry via Denmark. That actually might have been cheaper than flying and renting a van, but would have taken longer and, as I still currently have a day job, time off is difficult.

So, I flew Gatwick - Reykjavik with Easyjet (leaving my car at Gatwick), and rented a van from www.motorhome.is I'm still slightly unsure what part they play in the process, but I *think* they are just a booking agent, as closer to my departure time they passed on details of where I should collect the Motorhome, which was from the Geysir car rental company.

Perhaps I was stung a bit, but Geysir were great, I was happy with the motorhome, and I bought all the additional insurances (Collision Damage waiver, Gravel protection etc).

I'm used to driving a 7m motorhome in the UK, so I went for a 'proper' Motorhome - there are loads of kids circuiting Iceland in what are essentially just Nissan NV200 vans with a bed in the back, a porta-potti, and a camping stove but I'm afraid that's not for me - you get used to being able to stand up, having a shower, heating, decent fridge & cooking facilities etc.

The van I ended up with was a Plasy H63 - coachbuilt on a Citroen chassis. 6-Speed manual, Diesel, about 6.3m long, 100 litre Water & Waste tanks. Although it was billed as a 3-Berth, you could have got 4 in it as it has 4 front-facing belted seats, and a drop-down bed in the lounge that could have slept 2 in addition to the fixed double at the back.

fairly conventional layout - Fixed cross-ways bed at the back, 3-burner stove, sink, low-level fridge, toilet & shower, with separate door for the shower. Front seats both swivelled round. It has a pretty large garage, which could have held bikes, tables & chairs etc., but was a bit wasted on me as I didn't rent any of those.

It had Truma heating, but it appeared to be gas-only. It didn't give me the option to use EHU on the one occasion I had mains hook-up.

It only had a single 10Kg LPG bottle so if it ran out in the middle of the night you'd be without cooking / heating until you bought a replacement. These seemed to be available at every petrol station but, rather than take the risk, I replaced mine before it completely ran out.

I was travelling in the last week of April / First week in May, which is before the main tourist season kicks off. I chose this time deliberately - I wanted some hours of darkness as I am more interested in the Northern Lights than the Midnight Sun, the Puffins and Whales should hopefully have already arrived for the summer, not too many tourists. The risks were that winter wasn't completely finished.

The only plan I had was that I'd quite like to be able to get all the way round Iceland on the N1 ring road which, according to Google should be about 800 miles - I felt that was easily do-able on a 10-day trip and Easyjet had flights on a Sunday & Wednesday so, out Sunday 23rd April, back a week the following Wednesday (3rd May). This also took in the UK May bank holiday, which saved me a day's annual leave.

Some assorted facts & observations:

- The scenery is pretty stunning
- I actually drove 1,600 miles. Not quite sure how that happened. I definitely didn't go round the N1 twice, but I did detour off it quite a bit
- I only stayed 2 nights on paid campsites
- A number (though by no means all) of garages have chemical toilet disposal points, gas bottle exchange, free water.
- A lot of the more popular sights have 'No Overnight Parking' signs in their car parks
- Some of the National parks have 'No camping except on designated campsites' signs as you enter them.
- There are still lots of rural laybys, picnic areas etc, with no visible restrictions and where I felt very happy to stay the night
- I stayed two nights on a campsites that hadn't yet opened for the summer. All the water / Showers etc., were off/locked, but they were a convenient stopover
- I ate mainly in the van, and only had a couple of meals out
- There are sections of the N1 in the east that are gravel, rather than tarmac
- A lot of the roads out to the rural communities are gravel, and often have a lot of potholes, which made slow going.
- At this time of the year, the F-roads into the interior are all still closed, but I believe I wouldn't have been permitted to take the van onto those, as they are 4x4 only, often cross fords etc.
- I saw the Northern Lights, Puffins and Whales which were the big-3 I hoped to see
- It was cold and very very windy. Max daytime temp was around 9C and there were days when the wind gusts were over 20 meters a second, which made driving difficult, though I only had 3 wet days - the rest were cold but clear.
- Mobile 3G data coverage was widespread and I was never knowingly out of signal. I just used roaming data on my normal O2 mobile contract (£1.66 per day), and used my phone as a hotspot when I wanted to access the Internet on my tablet. A lot of restaurants / campsites etc. have free wi fi.
- I was running a tracker on my phone so that friends / family could keep track of my progress. This posted live location updates to a Spotwalla map (see screenshot).
- The weather and road condition websites (www.road.is and en.vedur.is) are excellent and an invaluable resource
- I visited 4 geothermal pools. Two of which had paid entry, and one of which I was the only person there. I did NOT go to the Blue Lagoon 0
- The best place to buy alcohol is the Airport duty free on your way into Iceland
- Alcohol can only be bought in the government-run Vinbudin stores, which are scattered around the country, but which only open during certain fairly restricted hours.

The van came with a Garmin sat-nav, but I didn't use it. Instead I used Osmand+ on an 8" tablet, which is what I use in my own van. I had spent time before I went adding POIs for things I'd really like to visit, some nice-looking possible night spots etc., then Osmand+ really comes into its own when you want to find the next nearest petrol station / supermarket / campsite / government liquor store etc., absolutely invaluable and never put a foot wrong.

When I arrived in Iceland, sections of the N1 were still closed in the North East due to snow, though the weather forecast was good, so I set off round anyway and, sure enough, they were open by the time I got to those sections.

I sort-of immersed myself in Icelandic before I went:

- I did an 18-Hour audio course in Icelandic
- I read some of the Sagas
- I read translations of some modern & some classic Icelandic literature
- I watched numerous Youtube vids, Icelandic news websites

Having a smattering of Icelandic was nice, and was appreciated by the Icelanders I met though was absolutely not necessary - English is very widely spoken, and I think I spoke more French than Icelandic (there seemed to be more French tourists than any other Nationality, for some reason), but it was great to be able to sit in a cafe / supermarket / listen to spoken-word radio and be able to pick out the odd word here and there.

There were lots of North American tourists - it seems that if you fly from USA / Canada to Europe with Iceland Air, you can stopover for up to 7 Days in Iceland en route at no extra charge, so of course lots do.

Finally, a couple of photos, a map of my trip, and a breakdown of the cost - a slightly eye-watering £3,448.97

Enjoy!

Morph


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## Pudsey_Bear

What a wonderful trip to do, they certainly stung with the van hire, shame as otherwise it wasn't too bad at all.

Hopefully there are more pictures to follow soonly.

Very jealous now.


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## jiwawa

Wow, I would never have considered Iceland but it sounds amazing. Certainly you'll have unique memories from the experience. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## JanHank

Thanks , that was worth reading. I wish I could understand how you do all that technical stuff. Would be nice to see more pictures and a bit more of what you got up to all alone:laugh:


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## Morphology

By popular demand - a few of my holiday snaps....


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## Morphology

And a few more...


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## Morphology

..and finally...


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## JanHank

Lovely pictures, thank you.
Please explain the house covered in hay/straw.
The traffic light is amusing are they all like that?
The churches looks rather remote.
What is the Number 10 picture of ? looks like a toilet block.
A holiday to remember above all others I would think.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Wonderful pictures Morph, thank you.


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## Morphology

>>Please explain the house covered in hay/straw.

That's the traditional construction method - the layers of turf forming the walls & roof provide both structure and insulation and compensate for the lack of materials such as timber - corrugated iron forms the end walls. That particular one is in Bakkagerði village in Borgarfjörður Eystri and is a private house, lived in by an 85 year old lady called Elísabet Sveinsdóttir, though she only lives there May - Sept nowadays.

>>The traffic light is amusing are they all like that?

Not everywhere, but all the traffic lights in Akureyri, Iceland's 2nd city are like that.

>>What is the Number 10 picture of ? looks like a toilet block.

That's the Seljavallalaug geothermal pool (plus changing rooms) 30 mins hike up a valley. Constructed in 1923 it was the first 'proper' swimming pool in Iceland and, at 25m, was the largest up until 1936. It was filled with ash following the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010, but was cleaned out by volunteers.

>>A holiday to remember above all others I would think.

Certainly high up the list of memorable holidays. Although I love touring the UK & Europe in my own Motorhome, flying and renting does let you get further afield yet still gives you that mobility and freedom to explore that you simply do not get with a conventional fly/drive.

http://www.japancampers.com/ has just caught my eye....

Morph


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## JanHank

Thank you for the explanation.
The traffic light, if they were in this country or Poland they could be misunderstood >


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## HermanHymer

Morphology said:


> >>Please explain the house covered in hay/straw.
> 
> http://www.japancampers.com/ has just caught my eye....
> 
> Morph


Caravan Club recently were promoting their upcoming, first, escorted tour of Japan. Not suggesting you join in, but the itinerary could be helpful.

Great trip, Morph. Lovely photos. Thanks for the reportback. Did you tell the eski's about it? Bet they wish they'd come with you. A while ago, I watched a TV series of a SA canoeist and a disabled pal, canoe round Iceland. Gripping stuff. :wink2:


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## Morphology

HermanHymer said:


> Not suggesting you join in, but the itinerary could be helpful.


Great suggestion. Thank you - I'd be interested to see their itinerary.

Morph


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## billplant

Hi Richard sounds like a great trip, just wondering if you have ever thought of getting sponsored by Osmand.


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## Morphology

billplant said:


> Hi Richard sounds like a great trip, just wondering if you have ever thought of getting sponsored by Osmand.


:laugh:

Sorry, do I bleat on about it?

I've tried many different mapping apps, and it's hands down the best for offline use.


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## Don Madge

Thanks for the post Richard.

If anybody is thinking about visiting Iceland have a look at http://www.langdale-associates.com/iceland_2017/current/index.htm

It is one of the places we never made it too on our travels.

Don


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## GMJ

Great thread - thanks









Could I ask: was the MH hire cost based on one person? Did they levy a single person supplement? Or, to the best of your knowledge is it more for 2 people?

If not then the per head cost starts to come down for a couple...

Graham :smile2:


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## billplant

Definitely no need to apologise your info and input into MHF has helped and advised lots of us.

I am going to have another try with Osmand ( wish me luck ) talk about teaching old dogs...


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## Matchlock

Nice Pics of Iceland, I'm sure you had a good time, looks really nice but why have I just had spam mails for Iceland after reading your thread, methinks we are being watched!


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## Morphology

GMJ said:


> Great thread - thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could I ask: was the MH hire cost based on one person? Did they levy a single person supplement? Or, to the best of your knowledge is it more for 2 people?
> 
> If not then the per head cost starts to come down for a couple...
> 
> Graham :smile2:


As far as I am aware, the cost was for the Motorhome and wasn't based on a per-person cost. I rented a 'Motorhome for 3 people', though it had two double beds (with bedding for both supplied), 4 front-facing belted seats, and crockery for 4, so you could have taken 2 couples (or any other combination of persons who don't object to sleeping in pairs) for the same cost.

Oddly, it didn't come with any Mugs, only 4 pyrex glass tumblers, so I am now the proud possessor of a "Souvenir of Iceland" mug.

Richard


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## Pudsey_Bear

What was it like doing it on your own though Richard? I'm not sure I could cope without Liz to share it with.


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## HermanHymer

http://www.campingandcaravanningclu...ming-holidays-reveals-new-japan-tour-2016-17/

For you Morph!


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## Morphology

Kev_n_Liz said:


> What was it like doing it on your own though Richard? I'm not sure I could cope without Liz to share it with.


When my wife left me around 2 years ago I wondered whether to sell the van, whether I'd make good use of it and, if I did keep it, what touring on my own would be like.

I tried going off for the odd night somewhere local and it was pretty [email protected] - there didn't seem any point in driving somewhere to look at the view, get pissed, go to sleep, drive home, put the van away. All pretty miserable.

We had planned to take 2-3 weeks and do the NC500 round Scotland in September 2015 so, when I was left on my own, I um'd and ah'd about whether to go or not. I'd booked the time off work, and was too proud to admit to work colleagues that my wife had left me and I wasn't going away, so I went on my own.....

....and actually had a pretty good time all things considered.

I drove much further / longer than I would have done if there were two of us. I also took the van to some places that my wife would never have let us - small ferries (hated boats), remote fishing harbours (worried about wildcamping), down small winding single-track roads (where the **** do you think you are going to turn round??!!).

So I've come to the conclusion that, provided I get up in the morning and set myself an approximate destination and just drive, it's actually not too bad. I don't think I could sit on a site for 4 nights like we used to, and I miss terribly those shared "ooh look at that!" experiences, but I'm using the van, drinking a lot less, going places and doing things, and there's nobody shouting at me whilst I'm trying to pilot a large-ish van through small-ish gaps.

Iceland was fabulous. I'd have preferred to share the experience with somebody, but it was a choice between not/never going or going on my own. So I went on my own.

In the 2016 calendar year (my first full year on my own) I spent 32 nights away in the van. That might not seem much compared to some of you but, considering I still have a full time job, spending 1 night in every 11 away in the van means that I'm definitely making use of it and not just sitting at home being miserable. I can be miserable somewhere with a nice view instead!

Richard


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## Morphology

HermanHymer said:


> http://www.campingandcaravanningclu...ming-holidays-reveals-new-japan-tour-2016-17/
> 
> For you Morph!


Ha! Thank you.

I've just finished the first CD of "Collins Easy Learning Japanese", so we shall see...

Morph.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Morphology said:


> When my wife left me around 2 years ago I wondered whether to sell the van, whether I'd make good use of it and, if I did keep it, what touring on my own would be like.
> 
> I tried going off for the odd night somewhere local and it was pretty [email protected] - there didn't seem any point in driving somewhere to look at the view, get pissed, go to sleep, drive home, put the van away. All pretty miserable.
> 
> We had planned to take 2-3 weeks and do the NC500 round Scotland in September 2015 so, when I was left on my own, I um'd and ah'd about whether to go or not. I'd booked the time off work, and was too proud to admit to work colleagues that my wife had left me and I wasn't going away, so I went on my own.....
> 
> ....and actually had a pretty good time all things considered.
> 
> I drove much further / longer than I would have done if there were two of us. I also took the van to some places that my wife would never have let us - small ferries (hated boats), remote fishing harbours (worried about wildcamping), down small winding single-track roads (where the **** do you think you are going to turn round??!!).
> 
> So I've come to the conclusion that, provided I get up in the morning and set myself an approximate destination and just drive, it's actually not too bad. I don't think I could sit on a site for 4 nights like we used to, and I miss terribly those shared "ooh look at that!" experiences, but I'm using the van, drinking a lot less, going places and doing things, and there's nobody shouting at me whilst I'm trying to pilot a large-ish van through small-ish gaps.
> 
> Iceland was fabulous. I'd have preferred to share the experience with somebody, but it was a choice between not/never going or going on my own. So I went on my own.
> 
> In the 2016 calendar year (my first full year on my own) I spent 32 nights away in the van. That might not seem much compared to some of you but, considering I still have a full time job, spending 1 night in every 11 away in the van means that I'm definitely making use of it and not just sitting at home being miserable. I can be miserable somewhere with a nice view instead!
> 
> Richard


Good for you, you do make her sound a bit of an Ogre though and perhaps your new found freedom might allow you to meet someone who is more likely to want to share your MoHo life, I'm sure most of you know that I met Liz through a dating site, and without her I'd never have got into this hobby, I do know what you mean about trying to navigate whilst getting earache, not pleasant at all, on the bright side maybe some other poor bugger is suffering.

Dunno if that's where you want to go but we met on midsummerseve.com it was then (2006) a really well run site with a forum to chat, it's mainly a meeting place rather than a dating site, but meeting do get arranged via a PM type system, it may have changed since then.


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## raynipper

Morphology said:


> I drove much further / longer than I would have done if there were two of us. I also took the van to some places that my wife would never have let us - small ferries (hated boats), remote fishing harbours (worried about wildcamping), down small winding single-track roads (where the **** do you think you are going to turn round??!!). Richard


Oh yes Morph. Know exactly what you mean there. Freedom..................................... but it's a high price to pay.

Ray.


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## jiwawa

I understand what you're saying Morph. 

I lost my husband a year and a half ago and also wondered if I would continue. 

But I did a short trip to Scotland, followed by a longer one in Scotland and England, taking in the NC500 with my sister. 

I then took off to France for 6-7 weeks. 

Now I'm in the middle of a 3-month trip to France n Spain, some with family some on my own. 

Yes, it is different and yes, I found myself driving further on my own than I would have before. And yes, I very much miss the non-consequential chit chat. 

But I do enjoy it - you get to go exactly where you want and do what you want to do. I enjoy meeting new people, travellers and locals. And I love seeing new places. 

So I'll keep doing it as long as I can. I'd better - I'm collecting a new van when I get back!


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## Morphology

jiwawa said:


> I understand what you're saying Morph.
> 
> I lost my husband a year and a half ago and also wondered if I would continue.
> 
> But I did a short trip to Scotland, followed by a longer one in Scotland and England, taking in the NC500 with my sister.
> 
> I then took off to France for 6-7 weeks.
> 
> Now I'm in the middle of a 3-month trip to France n Spain, some with family some on my own.
> 
> Yes, it is different and yes, I found myself driving further on my own than I would have before. And yes, I very much miss the non-consequential chit chat.
> 
> But I do enjoy it - you get to go exactly where you want and do what you want to do. I enjoy meeting new people, travellers and locals. And I love seeing new places.
> 
> So I'll keep doing it as long as I can. I'd better - I'm collecting a new van when I get back!


I'd be doing the same, and had planned to retire last year.

Unfortunately I now can't afford to retire, so will have to continue working for the foreseeable future - it's difficult to explain how irritating that is, when somebody takes your retirement away from you when it is within your grasp. I'm sure I'm not the first, and I doubt I'll be the last. I am at least fortunate that I'm in full time employment (currently).

Morph


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## HermanHymer

Well done Morph. I keep saying this, there is a certain peace of mind that comes with being on one's own, self-reliant.. I find that the layers of accommodating, tolerating, biting the tongue, criticism and just simple sharing eventually peel back, exposing the long-lost, authentic you underneath. And that's a nice calm feeling, like shedding a scratchy pullover.

Yes sometimes it's a pain being solo, but if you make the effort you're never without someone to chat to. And perhaps you will find someone who will fill that space. But to live with someone, you first have to succeed at living with yourself.

What a beautiful country Iceland is - I've just been checking the portfolio of Iceland pics in MS Jigsaw ditto Japan. Sure you'll enjoy it.


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## Pudsey_Bear

I split from my second wife in 1985, I then spent 12 years alone, it's not so meting I'd repeat even though it was my decision at the time, it was great to have a partner when I finally felt able to trust again.


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