# Electrolux/Dometic RM 6401 3 way fridge, Erratic on Gas



## Pudsey_Bear

Hi everyone,

I don't think I bought a bad camper, but every time we go away something seems to either breaks, won't work, or leaks.

This time it's the turn of the Electrolux RM 6401 fridge, it's Erratic on Gas, it seems to run OK on 12V, never tried it on 240V, It's been OK on gas all weekend, then as we were heading home, I noticed the igniter light was flashing, I suppose that could be the fault, but I suspect it's the gas side of things, we were away a couple of weeks ago and the sound of clicking woke me, so I checked and it was the fridge trying to re-light, I held the knob in, but ended up having to go outside in the snow and change the bottle, it worked OK after that so I didn't think anymore of it, today I just tried to light the hob, and it lit all burners fine, so gas is there, the gas isolator is on, I don't know why but I turned it to 12V for a second then back to gas, and it did light for a few seconds, then went out again.

With being made redundant last week I could do without any extra expense, so any ideas of things to check before I HAVE to get a mender bloke, would be very much appreciated as usual.


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## HurricaneSmith

Kev_Behr,

Very sorry to hear of your redundancy - There's a lot of people suffering the same thing right now.

The ticking you can hear is the igniter trying to relight the frig burner as you know.

A cheap temporary solution is to remove the external grille adjacent the igniter (often only retained by a single 90 degree turn screw) and blow hard where the igniter lights the flame.... 

If that works it probably means your unit is a little bunged up, and the safest thing to do is call out a mobile expert to do the job properly.

Best not to fiddle with the gas unit yourself unless you are qualified.


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## Pudsey_Bear

I thought I'd post this link, even though it's not the same as mine, it might be educational for anyone who has no idea what the business end of a gas fridge looks like, me included, I'm sure there are many variations of the way they work, but the principles will be similar.

http://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/APL-001-Jet.pdf

Repairs

Cleaning the Burner....
The Burner Tube is easily cleaned out with high pressure air by simply blowing from the Burner Slots toward the Burner Air Intake side. See below picture. Using Air in a Can is another option for service in remote areas. Be sure to turn the flame off and let the burner cool since some Air in a Can is flammable. The burner tube does not have anything inside of it. Using a pipe cleaner to probe the inside and loosen the debris is OK. Once the burner is cleaned, the flame should burn clean and crisp. Refer to below picture. When thermostat is on High Flame, the flame will "dance" slightly and have a slight turbulating noise. If the flame has been burning dirty for any period of time, be sure to also clean the flue and baffle. See below.

Cleaning the Flue and Baffle....
If soot build up is present inside the flue pipe (exhaust), then cleaning is required. Turn off gas supply and let flue pipe cool. Remove the baffle and pull it up and out. Clean the baffle free from soot by using a wire brush. CAREFULLY...

Place a cover over the burner tube to protect it from falling debris. Aluminum tin foil works well. Using a Flue Brush (not included) clean entire length of Flue Pipe until debris is brushed free. Be careful and do not damage the Burner Tube.

Cleaning the Orifice....
If the flame size is too small, the thermostat checks out good, and the gas supply pressure checks out good, it is possible that the orifice may need to be cleaned. To remove the orifice, loosen the gas supply line brass fitting on the. Gently move the gas supply line to the side. Bending this line is sometimes OK, but do not kink it. Remove the brass nut holding the orifice to the burner bracket. Clean the orifice by washing in rubbing alcohol or blowing through it with high pressure air. NEVER FORCE ANY OBJECT THROUGH THE ORIFICE. Changing the orifice hole size by ANY amount will harm the operation of the refrigerator and void the warranty. When reinstalling the orifice, be sure to line the orifice up so that the gas will shoot into the center of the Burner Tube. Check for leaks at the gas supply line fitting., using soapy water, DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME.

If you do not understand how gas fridges work, do NOT mess with it.


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## Pudsey_Bear

I didn't make it very clear in my OP, does anyone know anyone in the Leeds area who could help me out, I could afford to lose a finger, but arms and legs, I'd rather hang on to for now 

HELP


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## Pudsey_Bear

HELP!!!


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## Pudsey_Bear

I just had a little tip from a non subscribing member, about my fridge problem.

Apparently this model and a few others are subject to connection problems on the control knob (can I say knob on here)  anyway he said to twist it sharply to and fro to clean the connections as sometimes the contacts on the knob get a little grubby, and this can clean them, obviously use a little care, don't snap your knob off, it could be very painful in the wallet, I had a look to see if I could gain access to the back of my knob, but it would mean taking it out properly, and I don't want to do that on my own.

Kev.


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## geraldandannie

Hi Kev

Sorry replies are a little slow  

If I understand correctly, the fridge gives the impression it's run out of gas? You've got gas to your cooker / hob, but the fridge won't light? You can hear the ignitor ticking?

If all the above are true, then it's unlikely to be an electrical problem with the control knob. More likely to be a blockage in the fridge burner reducing the flow of gas, especially when the pressure starts to drop towards the end of the cylinder. Did you try cleaning the burner? It's usually not a difficult / dangerous job (routine maintenance), so I would have thought it would be within the scope of most competent DIY-ers (I don't know, though - I've never done it  )

Sorry to hear about your redundancy. What job did you do? Are you looking for the same type of job? Might be worth mentioning it in passing (or put it in your signature - you never know who's reading this forum 8) ).

Gerald


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## pippin

It could be the thermocouple, if it has one.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Thanks guys and guyesseses,

It seems to be OK now touch wood, it was Phil-the-fridge who put me right it's what he does for a living I think.

It would eventually light, as for cleaning the burner, yeah right, the powers that be at Laika (bless em) put a proper access door in the side of the van to clean the burner, but it's too bloody high by about 6" so you can't get near it, OK I hear you say, pull it out at the front and undo, well in their wisdom someone maybe Laika decided to seal it all in with expanding foam, talk about sh1t and blankets, I don't fancy doing it, but I might end up having to.

Kev.


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## Phil-The-Fridge

Happy to help Kev - Glad it cured your problem! This is a sideline for me (main job is Dometic generators) but if anyone else has a problem? FOC advice available!


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## Pudsey_Bear

Cheers Phil,
Not sure if it's actually cured it for good yet, but it seems to be working for now.


Kev


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## Pudsey_Bear

The fridge now will not stay lit regardless of which way I park up, it's fine on 12v and on EHU at home, but just goes out as soon as I release the temp knob, but re-lights when pressed, and goes out, so short of putting a stick across the MH, it needs to be fixed.

I've just rung Phil the fridge, but got the answer phone.

I'm assuming the thermocouple is at fault but I suppose it could be otherwise, it's been like this for a while gradually getting worse.

We replaced the igniter last year.

Kev.

Phil just rang me back.

Apparently it's not likely to be the thermocouple as they rarely fail, more likely to be the selector switch, or the gas valve itself.

Test by removing wires from gas valve and connecting a link wire (no volts there) but first try moving the switch a dozen times between power sources 12v, 240v, gas, off and see if it's just a mucky contact.

I shall report back.


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## JeanLuc

Another thought.

Are you sure that the fridge is not working on gas? I ask because ours became quite difficult to light (or so we thought). The igniter kept flashing, so I would hold in the knob and try again, get it to light then sometimes it started flashing again. In fact, it was alight all the time. To check whether you have this fault, put your hand over the exhaust vent (right side of top vent panel) and see if warm exhaust is coming out. If so, the problem may be a faulty fridge igniter unit that is connected to the gas jet and hidden down the back of the fridge.
Dave Newell (Leisure Vehicle Services) diagnosed the fault at the last hab. service. He ordered the part and I went back so he could fit it. Total cost was just over £100 including labour; the part was £83.

A simple job to do (once you know how) but I don't mess with the gas system myself.

Philip

p.s. sorry about your job news.


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## joedenise

Hi Kev

You said it wasn't working on gas whilst driving home, it won't - it runs on 12V. The igniter will still work if you haven't switched it off, depending on model.

Joe


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## UncleNorm

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the regulator! 

Our fridge was fine at the Global last August, then... 

... our hob was fine, the fridge was fine but the heating failed...

... then the hob would only cope with one burner but the fridge was fine...

... then the hob stopped working, but the fridge battled on...

... the the fridge stopped working! :evil: 

A new regulator, provided under warranty, sorted the problem.  :roll:


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## 96706

Please tell me that you weren't driving with the gas on! 

Mrs. D


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## Pudsey_Bear

JeanLuc said:


> Another thought.
> 
> Are you sure that the fridge is not working on gas? I ask because ours became quite difficult to light (or so we thought). The igniter kept flashing, so I would hold in the knob and try again, get it to light then sometimes it started flashing again. In fact, it was alight all the time. To check whether you have this fault, put your hand over the exhaust vent (right side of top vent panel) and see if warm exhaust is coming out. If so, the problem may be a faulty fridge igniter unit that is connected to the gas jet and hidden down the back of the fridge.
> Dave Newell (Leisure Vehicle Services) diagnosed the fault at the last hab. service. He ordered the part and I went back so he could fit it. Total cost was just over £100 including labour; the part was £83.
> 
> A simple job to do (once you know how) but I don't mess with the gas system myself.
> 
> Philip
> 
> p.s. sorry about your job news.


I didn't mention it but this is a new problem, the fridge lights fine on gas, it just won't stay lit, hence the call to Phil, I have since tried the suggestions he made, I moved the knob til I'd had enough, to no effect, I shorted out the gas valve to no effect, then it lights and stays lit, until you turn it off, then I have to go through it all again.

joedenise, The fridge runs fine on 12 v when driving

UncleNorm, I don't think it's a gas supply problem here, the fridge has always worked on gas even with the hob and oven going full tilt and the heating going too, there is plenty of pressure there.

****, Driving with the gas on is not a problem, it is even suggested to have the heating on in the manual, I take your point though, and would never drive with the hob or oven on, although I have on many occasions along with most on here, driven with the fridge still on gas as it's not auto switching, oh for an retrospective upgrade.

Kev.


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## 96706

****, Driving with the gas on is not a problem, it is even suggested to have the heating on in the manual, I take your point though, and would never drive with the hob or oven on, although I have on many occasions along with most on here, driven with the fridge still on gas as it's not auto switching, oh for an retrospective upgrade.

Kev.[/quote]

8O 8O 8O I'm shocked. Naked flame connected to gas supply, crash = bang, woosh. :lol: I thought it was illegal to drive with the gas connected, but if not, surely it is ill-advised. Do other people not turn off their gas bottles before taking to the road?

Mrs. D


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## sallytrafic

**** said:


> Kev_n_Liz said:
> 
> 
> 
> ****, Driving with the gas on is not a problem, it is even suggested to have the heating on in the manual, I take your point though, and would never drive with the hob or oven on, although I have on many occasions along with most on here, driven with the fridge still on gas as it's not auto switching, oh for an retrospective upgrade.
> 
> Kev.
> 
> 
> 
> 8O 8O 8O I'm shocked. Naked flame connected to gas supply, crash = bang, woosh. :lol: I thought it was illegal to drive with the gas connected, but if not, surely it is ill-advised. Do other people not turn off their gas bottles before taking to the road?
> 
> Mrs. D
Click to expand...

Mrs D its not black and white.

Some vehicles are expressly designed that way they have for example permanently operated rear heating systems. Some designs have shut of valves triggered like your air bags others that react to a loss of pressure that would occur if a gas line was broken.

I agree though if the system is not designed that way then turning off at the cylinder before driving off is the safest way.


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## Jezport

Just noticed this thread.

If you need someone local, BR Caravan services are based in Pudsey. You can call him on 07946796696 He is called Brian.


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## peejay

Kev;

Cast you mind back to when I had a similar problem with my fridge and you gave me Phil the Fridges number.

He sorted it for me and in my case it was the gas valve.



Pete


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## Pudsey_Bear

Nice one mate, I didn't know we had anyone local.

Cheers Kev.


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## bigles

We had a similar problem with our fridge last year, we would wake up in the night with the clicking sound of the igniter, then a pop, and the yellow light flashing on the front of the fridge.

After much investigation there were two problems:

1) The space between the igniter tip and the edge of the tube where the flame is was too big. When the gap was closed a little the fridge would light on the first click. What was happening was the clicking was happening but the spark wasn't jumping across the gap. The pop was the build up of gas eventually igniting when the spark did manage to jump the gap. 

2) Whilst away in France we couldn't get the gas to work at all, it turned out to be the black electronic box that generates the high voltage spark. Apparently this is a common problem with these fridges, maybe a faulty batch of boxes?. A new box sorted the problem - a couple of screws holds the box in place, one multi plug connector and one lead to the igniter.

Hope this may be of some help, but if you are in doubt get it into an experienced fridge specialist. I say experienced because we took it to an independent MH service centre with the problem before we went to France, and he charged us £100 for a service on the fridge, said it was all OK with a healthy blue flame. It went wrong again in France so I did the job myself, luckily I was able to get the electronic box after spending two days on sites with electric hook ups.


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## Pudsey_Bear

bigles said:


> We had a similar problem with our fridge last year, we would wake up in the night with the clicking sound of the igniter, then a pop, and the yellow light flashing on the front of the fridge.
> 
> After much investigation there were two problems:
> 
> 1) The space between the igniter tip and the edge of the tube where the flame is was too big. When the gap was closed a little the fridge would light on the first click. What was happening was the clicking was happening but the spark wasn't jumping across the gap. The pop was the build up of gas eventually igniting when the spark did manage to jump the gap.
> 
> 2) Whilst away in France we couldn't get the gas to work at all, it turned out to be the black electronic box that generates the high voltage spark. Apparently this is a common problem with these fridges, maybe a faulty batch of boxes?. A new box sorted the problem - a couple of screws holds the box in place, one multi plug connector and one lead to the igniter.
> 
> Hope this may be of some help, but if you are in doubt get it into an experienced fridge specialist. I say experienced because we took it to an independent MH service centre with the problem before we went to France, and he charged us £100 for a service on the fridge, said it was all OK with a healthy blue flame. It went wrong again in France so I did the job myself, luckily I was able to get the electronic box after spending two days on sites with electric hook ups.


Thanks Bigles, as I think I said last year, we did all that and it was working fine, just every now and then it wouldn't stay lit, it lights fine, it just goes out when releasing the button.

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear

peejay said:


> Kev;
> 
> Cast you mind back to when I had a similar problem with my fridge and you gave me Phil the Fridges number.
> 
> He sorted it for me and in my case it was the gas valve.
> 
> Pete


I spoke to him this AM and he thinks it might be the same on mine having ruled out most other likely causes, I've also rung the bloke Jezport mentioned he's coming tomorrow morning, hope he's cheap.   .

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Jezport said:


> Just noticed this thread.
> 
> If you need someone local, BR Caravan services are based in Pudsey. You can call him on 07946796696 He is called Brian.


Cheers, I got around to ringing him this morning, I'll update after he's been, PTF reckons it'll be the gas valve, it can be repaired with a kit as it's the solenoid side that seems to have given up.

Kev.


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## ninetyplus

*Does running on LPG affect ignition sensor / flashing light*

Fridge runs fine on gas but flashing light to indicate it waits for ignition flashes constantly. I changed from Propane to LPG Autogas, is this relevant? Electrolux model RM 6401


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## Pudsey_Bear

Assuming, gas is present and that you have held the knob in long enough, it might be the spark generator, I could hear mine, but it wasn't giving a fat enough spark, the next time it failed it was the selector switch.


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## ninetyplus

*Thanks Kev & Liz*

I will look into it this week now it is a bit warmer! Thanks


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## ninetyplus

*Fridge Gas will not light*

Electrolux RM6401 Light flashing even with gas operating. Took out burner, spayed cleaner, blew out with air line, with burner not in housing, it lights immediately and flashing light goes out. Great, put it back in position. Now it does not light. OK replace igniter unit and spark plug but now it does not light immediately but fills tube with gas and then ignites with a POP which blows out any flame. If you take out thew burner, light it, then mount it, it continues to work. Wondered if the wire that holds the spiral flue plate had corroded and the spiral blade had dropped to the bottom. Removed fridge to see. No suspension wire was very corroded but intact. Now I am running out of ideas. Can any of you advise me who talk to who knows these things? And / or, is there any real support in the East Midlands? Another wasted day! Cheers Roger


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## Pudsey_Bear

*Re: Fridge Gas will not light*



ninetyplus said:


> Electrolux RM6401 Light flashing even with gas operating. Took out burner, spayed cleaner, blew out with air line, with burner not in housing, it lights immediately and flashing light goes out. Great, put it back in position. Now it does not light. OK replace igniter unit and spark plug but now it does not light immediately but fills tube with gas and then ignites with a POP which blows out any flame. If you take out thew burner, light it, then mount it, it continues to work. Wondered if the wire that holds the spiral flue plate had corroded and the spiral blade had dropped to the bottom. Removed fridge to see. No suspension wire was very corroded but intact. Now I am running out of ideas. Can any of you advise me who talk to who knows these things? And / or, is there any real support in the East Midlands? Another wasted day! Cheers Roger


Not sure what to say, the light should only flash if the flame has gone out it's not to show lack of gas.

There is a fridge man on here but you need to be a paid up member to contact him.

Sorry I can't help further.


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