# +12Vdc needed for 'safety lock'



## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Hi

Does anyone out there know how easy it might be to pick up a feed from an onboard Dometic fridge, i.e. a +12Vdc? I need a feed that is live with the engine running and is clearly off when stopped. I essentially need it as a 'safety lock'. The fridge is the closest option.

thanks

MAC 8)


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

The main issue will be breaking into the fridge feed, as it is heavy wiring for the 12V side of the fridge and won't be easy to get into without fitting a new terminal block or something along those lines.

Note that there will be two 12V feeds if you have gas, the low-power feed for the ignitor module (unless you have piezo-electric push-button ignition) and the higher-current feed for the 12V heater element.

On our RM2267 the terminal blocks aren't that big and I'd struggle to get another cable in alongside the existing one.

Peter


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## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Thanks Peter for the advice. 

Our fridge is automatic ignition, i.e. one selects gas and it starts after 10 sec or so. 

I assume one has to take the fridge out or can one get to it by removing the front panel?

MAC 8)


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Generally they stack all of the connections on top of the fridge, that's where they are on mine and previous versions, yours may be different.

Peter


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

Remove the lower vent outside for the connections


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## rogerblack (May 1, 2005)

Our 'van has a wiring block under the driver's seat with a couple of sockets containing relays, including the one which controls the 12V 'frig power from the alternator and also one to turn off the general 12V when running (to which I have added a manual bypass switch). Do you have something similar? If so, might it be easier to pick up the feed from there?


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

This is the Dometic RMD8505 I recently fitted.The previous model 7655 had connections on the top but these were extended to the lower vent (by Rapido the converter) as servicing would otherwise be impossible.
Here there is the lpg connection, 230 volt connection, 12 volt power connection, 12 volt permanent control circuit supply and D+ Alternator signal to switch the 12 volt supply on on engine running.


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## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Many thanks Techno for those details. 

The fridge is still the best route to take because I can follow Bursner's wires around the kitchen units to the control panel.

Thanks again to you all

regards

MAC 8)


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## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Hi

Only just got round to sorting this out. 

Here is a photo of my fridge wiring, with the two 12v supplies. The small purple wire is always live whereas the larger red supply is only live with the engine running. Would this red wire be okay for the 12Vdc 'safety lock' that I'm after?

The photo may not display properly, here's hoping.

thanks

Cliff 8)


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## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Another attempt at the picture. Why no colour?


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

Tell us again what this safety lock is?

EDIT sorry I read post one again.
Yes the red will be OK but down fuse it when you tap off


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WAGO-Spri...mponents_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item27d48af99f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-Blad...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f3218430


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## jonasw19 (Jun 11, 2010)

I have had poor results with in line blade fuse holders.
The ones I tried developed intermittent contacts and were generally of poor construction. This applied to mini and normal size sourced from maplins and Halfords.
I settled for inline fuse holders though even they can be rubbish. 


Jon


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## cliffhanger (Jun 27, 2008)

Many thanks for that

Cliff 8)


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