# 2005 Kon-tiki 655 electrics



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Fuse No1 15a, has blown, according to the legend it's supposed to be Front lights, Hab I presume, but all the internal lights are working, so not sure what it's for.

When I viewed the van everything was working as it should, but even after speaking to the seller yesterday, I can't get the fridge (RM 7501 Not AES) to fire up on 230v, I have power to the EHU, internal sockets are all working, but I can't get to anything on the fridge, (I removed the top front panel, pointless exercise) except via the bottom vent, I disconnected the 230v cable to the heater, and got no current at all, so I suspect a possible selector problem, (as the Sargent MCB is ok) but I'm not sure how to make sure.

You might also notice, next to the power switch there is a green one which has heater under it, which does light up, but seems to do nothing.

And the seller can't remember if the Truma works on 230v or not and the swift manual is complete and utter rubbish, it doesn't even mention the same fridge or even a similar one, so I can't tell what equipment level it's supposed to have.



















On the plus side, the seller has already agreed to sort it out, he's a really nice bloke, it does mean a little trip down to Chesterfield, but I'd rather sort it myself if possible, as I like to know what I have and how it all works just incase I need to sort something out in the field.

Any ideas, as I'm not normally stuck on stuff like this, but to be honest there is nothing in this one which I've played with before.


----------



## charlieivan (Apr 25, 2006)

Why not take up the offer of the previous owner helping to sort it. At least you will be with him to see what goes on and you may also have other queries he could maybe help with. At worst it is a day out for you.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

charlieivan said:


> Why not take up the offer of the previous owner helping to sort it. At least you will be with him to see what goes on and you may also have other queries he could maybe help with. At worst it is a day out for you.


He's not doing it himself, it'll be booked into somewhere so I won't get to see anything at all, also I've no idea how long it'll be before it can be seen as it's still busy at most places.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev,

Does the AES display tell you what source it's running from? On ours there are 3 symbols, gas, battery and mains. The symbol will light when it's using that power source.

The fridge can be used in manual mode (where YOU select the source) or automatic where the fridge decides. Once in automatic it will always try to run on mains (as long as a mains voltage is present). If not it will drop back to gas or if the engine is running it will work from the alternator (battery).

When you checked for power at the mains element did the fridge think that it was operating on mains? If it did then it's unlikely to be a selector problem.

Edit: I've just found this and it looks like yours may not have the same indications. Haven't read through it properly yet but not sure if you've seen this one
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/878018/Dometic-Caravan-Rm-7501.html#manual

Edit Edit: Thats the manual version (not AES) so ignore the above.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Kev,
> 
> Does the AES display tell you what source it's running from? On ours there are 3 symbols, gas, battery and mains. The symbol will light when it's using that power source.
> 
> ...


Thanks Phil, but it's not AES. mine is the one in the linked manual.


----------



## Drew (May 30, 2005)

Hi Kev,

Don't jump the gun.

Start at the beginning and thoroughly work forward. With the leisure battery full charged remove the electric hook up.

Switch everything off and remove all fuses, replace one fuse at a time, thoroughly check your vehicle ensuring to make a list of everything that is on. Repeat with the electric hook up connected. A slow but thorough check. If a previous owner has modified altered or added to a circuit this is the only way you will ever find out. 

Don't jump from one circuit to another or cut corners take your time and you will eventually get there.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Kev, I have the same panel in my Bessie.

Inside the door I have 2 light switches, one for the 2 big light fittings, and one for the 2 small downlighters.

If I pull fuse 1, the 2 big lights go off. 

Fuse 2 serves the 2 small downlighters plus the reading lights.

The green switch needs to be on when you're on hook-up and set the heating/hot water for elect+gas. If the switch is off, you need to turn the heating to gas only. On mine anyway, if it is set for elect+gas and the green switch is off, nothing happens, the gas doesn't heat it on it's own. Go figure!

My control panel is the Sargent one, so if yours is the same and you need more help, let me know. Due to the same symbol being used for 2 different functions, it can take some getting used to.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Thanks Phil, but it's not AES. mine is the one in the linked manual.


Doh!!!!! Sorry, missed that in your OP.

The fact that the heater isn't working on 230v and both heater and fridge are fed from the same MCB circuit could suggest a common problem. If you can check for 230v at the input side of the heater and the fridge then that would prove/disprove that idea.

P.S. Normal disclaimers and safety rules apply when testing for mains voltages!


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Drew said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> Don't jump the gun.
> 
> ...


Cheers Drew.

LB is 100%, all 12v items apart from heating & water are working okay on or off EHU, need hoses to hook up the Gaslow bottles before I can proceed further with water or blown air side.

The Sargents Green heater switch makes the fitted ammeter jump up to 2 amps from 0 amps even with the heating etc turned to off, so no idea what is using that, I'd expect the fridge on 230v to also make it jump up.

I am absolutely rubbish at fault diagnosis, and my multi-meter skills are quite restricted, I'm okay with volts AC & DC, and continuity but there it stops.

I'll do the 12v fuses this afto, (hopefully the rest will be as listed, I'm just in the middle of replacing a shelf in the microwave cupboard, as we won't be using it.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Kev, I have the same panel in my Bessie.
> 
> Inside the door I have 2 light switches, one for the 2 big light fittings, and one for the 2 small downlighters.
> 
> ...


Cheers Geoff, I'll get back to you on that matey.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Doh!!!!! Sorry, missed that in your OP.
> 
> The fact that the heater isn't working on 230v and both heater and fridge are fed from the same MCB circuit could suggest a common problem. If you can check for 230v at the input side of the heater and the fridge then that would prove/disprove that idea.
> 
> P.S. Normal disclaimers and safety rules apply when testing for mains voltages!


No Worries Phil, I do it all the time, people think I'm daft, it's true though  

When testing for mains voltages I probe the blue and brown only on 600v AC range, I'm sure that's right, not blown anything up yet, and I'm most careful, getting at the heater input may be tricky, access is terrible.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Control panel over Hab doorway.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I can't believe it took me over 30 minutes or more to do this fuse check, but here are my findings, 12v only

All fuses out = control panel and a single spot, behind driver seat, I assume this is so you have some light should the lights fuse fail.

Fuses 1 & 2 you can pull either (but not both) & ALL Hab lights will work, as does Awning light which should be on Fuse 6

Fuse 3 had a 15a in, changed to 10a, 12v sockets, not checked, nothing to plug in right now all boxed up, will check later.

Fuse 4 controls fridge ignition & extractor hood fan and lights.

Fuse 5 Hob ignition.

Fuse 6 No aux to test, does not fuse awning light.

Fuse 7 loo and shurflo pumps

Fuse 8 says charger connected internally, so I assume this is in case muppet mode prevails and I get the polarity swapped on the LBs

Oh ballcocks, just realised I did it all while still on EHU, do I need to do it all again?

Very clingy humid up here, time for me budgie smugglers.


----------



## Carl_n_Flo (May 10, 2005)

Hi Kev - why not give Sargent a call to discuss?
I have found them very helpful when sorting confusing electrical issues on our AT - it was they that designed the whole electrical circuit for the van. Maybe they did the same for Swift?
Worth a call surely?


Carl


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev,

Not sure if you already have this but it is the Technical Handbook for the 2005 Swift range. The wiring diagram on page 18 is quite good compared to many motorhome wiring diagrams.

https://assets.swiftgroup.co.uk/upl... MH Tech Books/Swift MH Service Book 2005.pdf

I'm guessing yours is a 2005 model but there are links to other model years here too

https://www.swiftgroup.co.uk/motorhomes/handbooks

Phil


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Carl_n_Flo said:


> Hi Kev - why not give Sargent a call to discuss?
> I have found them very helpful when sorting confusing electrical issues on our AT - it was they that designed the whole electrical circuit for the van. Maybe they did the same for Swift?
> Worth a call surely?
> 
> Carl


Hi Carl, long time no see, you okay?

Re ringing Sargents, yes no problem with that but don't swift actually fit the bits, If they do fitting like they do appliances I reckon most of the builders just do what's easiest, but if I do have a problem I'll be in touch with them.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Kev,
> 
> Not sure if you already have this but it is the Technical Handbook for the 2005 Swift range. The wiring diagram on page 18 is quite good compared to many motorhome wiring diagrams.
> 
> ...


Hi Phil, I did get the first link (hard copy) with the van, but I'll download and print off (more bigness) the useful pages & hope they are more accurate than the rest of the Swift gubbins, very little relates to the van, nothing tells me if the water and blown air will even run off 230v shocking way to treat people spending tens of thousands.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Kev. In your post 12, right hand piccie shows a rotary switch that controls heating/water/both.

Do you have another identical switch somewhere labelled Trumatic C EH? Mine are side by side above the door.

The C EH switch controls the power supply, i.e. mains/gas/both to the heating system.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

It's all a bit of a mystery Kev. 

Looking at the 2005 wiring diagram there is only one boiler control shown and it's not like the one in your picture.

In the 2006 wiring diagram there are 2 controls as Tuggers mentions. The one you've got and the second switch which controls the power source (gas, leccy or both). I'm guessing that your van could be a 2006 model even though it's a 2005 registration???

The other side of the control panel looks a likely place the power source switch may have been but has been replaced with a non standard ammeter??

Curiouser and curiouser!!


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Kev. In your post 12, right hand piccie shows a rotary switch that controls heating/water/both.
> 
> Do you have another identical switch somewhere labelled Trumatic C EH? Mine are side by side above the door.
> 
> The C EH switch controls the power supply, i.e. mains/gas/both to the heating system.


No Geoff, just that one, I've just come in from having a good look.

While out there I checked the hot water, only on for about 10 mins but quite warm, it was switched to heating too, but I'm wondering if it's just too warm right now for it to boot up, I'd say it was the low 20s outside.

Seller said the water needs to heat up for the heating to work which sounds like it may be a historic problem, as there is a setting for heat only on the dial.


----------



## cabby (May 14, 2005)

A lot of the continentals have no mains voltage supply for their truma, like mine it runs on Gas only, plus of course the 12v. It will be unusual for a swift not to have mains on their systems. Has the heater unit got EH at the end of the model number on the label/plate.I do not think you can go by the wiring diagram as this may be a standard fit all wiring loom.

cabby


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

If you have the heating on Mains electric only it doesnt give you blown air heating but more of a gentle heat. In the winter when on EHU we put it on Gas first to get the blown air heating going and once the van is warm we switch to electric only which then maintains the heat

Your van does appear to have a control missing (energy source selector) and the square gauge you have on the left is a mystery to me, we dont have that. Perhaps your boiler can only operate on gas?

I do wonder if your electrics have been modified for some reason


----------



## Carl_n_Flo (May 10, 2005)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Hi Carl, long time no see, you okay?
> 
> ....


Hi Kev - Yes mate, all OK here. Not been around much lately as we have been trying to get our little enterprise up and running. Consequently, not had much time to use the van - or even poke my head in here much unfortunately!

Good to see you dropped onto another waggon though. As usual, I am following your adventures with it as, as with the previous vans you had, the work you do on them is most instructive.

Re Sargent - when I couldn't figure out some of the wiring of our van they sent me a copy of the original wiring layout drawing that they supplied to AT. Way more detailed than anything AT could produce and it corresponded very much to what was actually fitted.

Hope you get to the bottom of it mate - soul destroying when things cant be figured out!


----------



## Carl_n_Flo (May 10, 2005)

Try this link:

https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support/article/Swift-Group-Schematics/25

It has schematics for 2005 and 2006 kon-tikis.

Might be of some help?


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

When my Son was fitting our solar panel he rang Sargent for advice about connecting the MPPT controller via their panel and they were most helpful and even sent the necessary wiring to arrive the next day and only cost a few quid


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks everyone, I'll be concentrating on the heating and fridge AC performance to day.

Pic below of the Truma data plate if it helps at all.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks every one, I'll be concentrating on the heating and fridge AC operations today, I'll also do the fuses minus the EHU as no one has advised me on the need to do it again or not.

Data plate picture if it helps it does say 230v on it though.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Why does MHF keep rotating my pictures, it looks fine in explorer and on the phone.

el.Beheizung = heating 230v but only 450 watt maybe this is what Kay meant
warmestrom = warm current 12v 

I'm no wiser.

I did try to find some access into the fridge AC wiring before the selector switch, but I couldn't find anything, I'm going to get the steps out today and see if there is anything via the top vent.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Why does MHF keep rotating my pictures, it looks fine in explorer and on the phone.
> 
> *el.Beheizung = heating 230v but only 450 watt maybe this is what Kay meant
> warmestrom = warm current 12v
> ...


I guess that means there is a mains heating element, and the circulating fan for the space heating is 12volt. That would be normal.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> I guess that means there is a mains heating element, and the circulating fan for the space heating is 12volt. That would be normal.


Yes, that would make sense Geoff, as the fan needs to work off grid, but I tried it yesterday and felt no air coming through the vents.

Looks like it's going to be too warm again to test the heating today, it's already 19c here.

I'm not actually bothered if there is no EHU blown air heating or water heating, but if it's there I do want it to work, fridge is different of course as we cool down the day before we go off, so has to work on EHU.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

When I turn on my heating, it can sometimes take a minute or two before the fan kicks in. I assume it is going through a start-up procedure.

The centre part of the rotary switch is the thermostat, and appears to be on max in your photo.

It is connected to a sensor in the hab area, a small black doodad probably on the underside of one of the overhead lockers. Make sure the wiring to that is OK.

Make sure your 12 volt is on. Within the rotary switch there is a green light if things are running. If the light goes red, it means summat is wrong and the system cannot comply with the request. Usually the power supply is wrongly switched.

I don't understand why you don't have the other rotary switch as I and others have previously mentioned. How do you choose power supply for your heating?


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> When I turn on my heating, it can sometimes take a minute or two before the fan kicks in. I assume it is going through a start-up procedure.
> 
> The centre part of the rotary switch is the thermostat, and appears to be on max in your photo.
> 
> ...


All I can think of is there is the previously mention green heating switch on the Sargent box Geoff.

If you look at the Truma switch there is an off point so maybe that's all it needs, I can't think of a circumstance where another one would be removed, but what does your other one do, do you have a pic of your layout, Kays too if possible.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

This is my set up.

















The right hand control marked C EH is used to control the power supply. Mains electric, gas, or both.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev,

I think this may be the manual for your Truma

https://dealernew.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma_Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34000_94800.pdf

If it is, then I wonder if the mains operation switch shown on page 10 is not fitted and the green switch on your fuseboard carries out the same function?


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> This is my set up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hmm yes Geoff, that looks a bit more sensible, maybe mine is Gas only, although, my water was warm this morning and the Truma selector was at off, but the Sargent heater was still on, I forgot to turn it off, I surmise I have Electric water heating, but not space heating.

Still nothing on the fridge 230v side, can't get at anything except through the lower vent, looks like the 230v feed comes in at the side, I can't even check to see if 230v is getting to the fridge, I'd cut an access hole (I have matching 12 & 3mm ply, but where would I cut it.

There is a cupboard over the fridge, I need to get a step to see if I can remove that, then maybe I'll get access to the top of the fridge, then I can test the input/output.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Kev,
> 
> I think this may be the manual for your Truma
> 
> ...


I Printed of page 7,8,9,10,11 from the one below Phil, your is slightly different.

Did find the mushroom temp sensor under a cupboard though  

The switch pictured below Phil, thinking that the van is 11 years old, I wonder if the green heater switch on the Sargent simply replaced it if all it does is turn it on, it's superfluous (possibly) and it's an ammeter rather than an LED indicator simply because it covered the hole.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

The cupboard over the fridge seems to be part of the structure, no apparent screws to remove the bottom shelf, so any fasteners must be on the underside, not helpful at all as it means the fridge has to come out just to use the meter to check anything on top, crap design.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I Printed of page 7,8,9,10,11 from the one below Phil, your is slightly different.
> 
> Did find the mushroom temp sensor under a cupboard though
> 
> The switch pictured below Phil, thinking that the van is 11 years old, I wonder if the green heater switch on the Sargent simply replaced it if all it does is turn it on, it's superfluous (possibly) and it's an ammeter rather than an LED indicator simply because it covered the hole.


I suspect the switch in your photo was never there and it's function is carried out by the green switch on your fuseboard.

I just managed to find this pic of a 2005 Kontiki 655 and there is nothing to the left of the main control panel. My guess would be that the ammeter was an afterthought by a previous owner and was not just something to cover up a hole.

http://i.autotrader.co.uk/merlin-image-server/view/0e4edbbf-7171-430b-989a-e589b309ea61/800


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> I suspect the switch in your photo was never there and it's function is carried out by the green switch on your fuseboard.
> 
> I just managed to find this pic of a 2005 Kontiki 655 and there is nothing to the left of the main control panel. My guess would be that the ammeter was an afterthought by a previous owner and was not just something to cover up a hole.
> 
> http://i.autotrader.co.uk/merlin-image-server/view/0e4edbbf-7171-430b-989a-e589b309ea61/800


Aha, correctamundo Phil , I forgot I had this in my watch list and it pretty much prooves it didn't have one, 360 are brillian so long as they put the camera in the right place.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

I have the same PSU2007, with the green switch, which needs to be on to use mains for heating. The rotary power supply switch then selects the power source for the heating/water. The green switch is like a master switch.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> I have the same PSU2007, with the green switch, which needs to be on to use mains for heating. The rotary power supply switch then selects the power source for the heating/water. The green switch is like a master switch.


See the 360 below Geoff, deffo only one Truma switch over the door, Bessie was a lot easier, one switch for each method & appliance, so easy to isolate the problem.

I have 230v and LPG, I have got water somehow overnight, had the green switch on but the water hasn't got any warmer despite the Truma being set to HW ???????

Forgetted to add the link in last post.

http://www.glossopcaravans.co.uk/used-motorhomes/swift-kontiki-655-2005-mk005725e#tab_360


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> I suspect the switch in your photo was never there and it's function is carried out by the green switch on your fuseboard.
> 
> I just managed to find this pic of a 2005 Kontiki 655 and there is nothing to the left of the main control panel. My guess would be that the ammeter was an afterthought by a previous owner and was not just something to cover up a hole.
> 
> http://i.autotrader.co.uk/merlin-image-server/view/0e4edbbf-7171-430b-989a-e589b309ea61/800


Look at this one Phil, different again

This is an 05 Kon-Tiki 655 @ Glossop Caravans, it looks to have the on/off switch too, maybe swift just use whatever they have to hand in the parts bins and make it all work, cept it isn't on mine right now.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Look at this one Phil, different again
> 
> This is an 05 Kon-Tiki 655 @ Glossop Caravans, it looks to have the on/off switch too, maybe swift just use whatever they have to hand in the parts bins and make it all work, cept it isn't on mine right now.


It may be down to which Truma unit they fitted. The manual for the 6002EH shows the 2 controls as per Geoff's van however the manual for the 6002EL shows the one control that you have and the mains on/off switch as per the pic in one of your previous posts.

Both types of Truma would have been around at the time yours was built so it may have been potluck as to which one got fitted! Looking at the 360 picture both switches are side by side which wasn't the case with yours????

May be of interest if Geoff could take a pic of the Truma label on his unit to compare types.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

I'm not arguing that you only have the one control over the door, your photos clearly show that.

I'm just puzzled as to how you're supposed to choose your power source for the heating. Maybe when the green switch is off things automatically default to gas, I don't know. Maybe Kay can be more help when she has time, as she has the same model van as you, I think. However she seems to have the extra power supply control. Don't know if your vehicles are similar age or not.

I checked the label on my boiler, the model is C EH603-A, so different to yours and maybe a different control system.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Going back to the original issue of neither the fridge or the heater working on mains................. Are you able to (safely) remove the cover off the fuseboard and check that you are getting 230v on the output side of the MCB? I'm still puzzled that both the circuits that are supposed to work off that one MCB are giving you problems.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

tugboat said:


> I'm not arguing that you only have the one control over the door, your photos clearly show that.
> 
> I'm just puzzled as to how you're supposed to choose your power source for the heating. Maybe when the green switch is off things automatically default to gas, I don't know. Maybe Kay can be more help when she has time, as she has the same model van as you, I think. However she seems to have the extra power supply control. Don't know if your vehicles are similar age or not.
> 
> I checked the label on my boiler, the model is C EH603-A, so different to yours and maybe a different control system.


I wonder if the default arrangement is that the heating will work on gas but if there is 230v present (and switched on via the green switch) then it will work on mains. Either or. Unlike the EH that you have with the extra control which is either, or, both. As you say Kay may be able to shed more light if she has the same unit.

I think Kev's got plenty to be going on with until she has a chance to get back to him:wink2::wink2:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> It may be down to which Truma unit they fitted. The manual for the 6002EH shows the 2 controls as per Geoff's van however the manual for the 6002EL shows the one control that you have and the mains on/off switch as per the pic in one of your previous posts.
> 
> Both types of Truma would have been around at the time yours was built so it may have been potluck as to which one got fitted! Looking at the 360 picture both switches are side by side which wasn't the case with yours????
> 
> May be of interest if Geoff could take a pic of the Truma label on his unit to compare types.


That all makes sense Phil, a pic of Geoffs may add to the mix.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> I'm not arguing that you only have the one control over the door, your photos clearly show that.
> 
> I'm just puzzled as to how you're supposed to choose your power source for the heating. Maybe when the green switch is off things automatically default to gas, I don't know. Maybe Kay can be more help when she has time, as she has the same model van as you, I think. However she seems to have the extra power supply control. Don't know if your vehicles are similar age or not.
> 
> I checked the label on my boiler, the model is C EH603-A, so different to yours and maybe a different control system.


Didn't even cross my mind that you were arguing Geoffrey   yours is a different model anyway being a bessie but from the same stable, my only thoughts were (if I thought at all) you too were trying to help me figure it out, which I am most grateful for.

I'm of the opinion there is a fault somewhere in both the fridge and the heating system as I can't get anything from that at all, but no red LED or Yellow, just green.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Going back to the original issue of neither the fridge or the heater working on mains................. Are you able to (safely) remove the cover off the fuseboard and check that you are getting 230v on the output side of the MCB? I'm still puzzled that both the circuits that are supposed to work off that one MCB are giving you problems.


Ah, No way Phil, at least not yet, there is no cover as such, the whole thing is pop riveted so you have to remove it, and the seller might rightly tell me to go forth and multiply.

However as I was still puzzled to have hot water, I dumped it all and ran the hot tap till it was cold, then made sure the green switch was on and left the Truma switch set to off, I now have a tank of how water, I was also puzzled as to why the ammeter was some time 0a and others 2a, it was switching in and out I presume, so we have 230 getting as far as the Truma, so if the Sargent is wired correctly I should also have 230v at the top of the fridge, however I think my next trick should be to figure out if that is the case by tripping MCB 1 & 2 but leave 3 the 6 amp (Fridge / Water Heater / 12v Charger(internally connected)) one on, so if I still have hot water after dumping yet another load.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I just went to trip the MSC, and the green heater switch is on MCB 2 not 3










Run out of H2O and it's persisting down so I'll have luncheon and continue as before and try any suggestions.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

I'd guess the mis labelling on the MCB's is just a throwback to vans that used the same fuseboard but had separate space and water heaters and not the combi that you have. I wouldn't think that anyone has messed with it, it's just the way it is! 

I found this paragraph in the Truma manual which, to me, reads that your Combi can be powered by gas for heating and hot water but the mains power only heats the water.


----------



## cabby (May 14, 2005)

The Truma combi has an electric collar which is 230v. this is best used with the gas to heat the water and then the collar keeps the water hot, to heat water using just the 230v collar takes an awfully long time.This is offered as an add on for those that have only gas fired Truma like myself, but the cost is not worth it in my opinion. 

cabby

I personally would prefer two separate units for hot water and heating, then you could have more than the standard 10/12L.Maybe a water tank with an emersion unit fitted as in households.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Here's the label on my unit, if it helps.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

So your hot water is sorted, that just leaves the fridge :wink2:

The Swift wiring diagrams suggest that there should be a fused spur somewhere close to the fridge. I would think it unlikely (though not impossible) that they would run the power cable direct from the fuseboard straight into the fridge so a fused spur or 13a socket would be a possibility.

If there is one that would be a good place to check to see how far the mains is getting. I've seen them located in all sorts of places like behind the fridge, in a cupboard above or below the fridge, in a cupboard alongside the fridge, behind a false back wall in a cupboard close to the fridge etc etc.

Are you able to see where the mains cable goes to when looking through the vent. I know you said you could see a cable going to the top of the fridge but can you see where that comes from.

If you can't find anything, do you have one of those detector gadgets for checking walls before you drill? Some of them have both metal and mains detection built into them. If yours does mains then hold it close to the cable to see if it triggers (you could also check it on the hookup lead first to ensure it works on a known live cable).

Phil

P.S. You could also use something* like this* to check if the cable going to the fridge is live. Anything rather than having to pull the fridge out unnecessarily!!!


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Here's the label on my unit, if it helps.


That's great Geoff as I think it confirms the difference in units. On yours the 230v is rated at 900/1800W which is the two stage elements that are sufficient to run the space heating on electric whereas Kev's 230v is only rated at 450w which is just a hot water collar like Cabby mentions.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Well spotted, Phil, I hadn't noticed that. Must be time for Specsavers!


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> So your hot water is sorted, that just leaves the fridge :wink2:
> 
> The Swift wiring diagrams suggest that there should be a fused spur somewhere close to the fridge. I would think it unlikely (though not impossible) that they would run the power cable direct from the fuseboard straight into the fridge so a fused spur or 13a socket would be a possibility.
> 
> ...


The hot water is only partially sorted Phil, I can't get it to fire up on gas only, and as we wild camp this is essential, so it's an ongoing problem, I've turned off MCBs 1 & 3 as this leaves 2 on and the green light, Only just done it so I'll go back out and try after 30 minutes to see if the aqua is warming up, I'm a bit annoyed that the Sargent control panel legend and the manual are so different it's be easy enough to change the numbers, or stick a label on the unit, so the poor customer can at least get the right guide, I'll be having a word with them at some point.

I can't get to see behind the fridge unfortunately, I took some flash shots but they don't show anything useful, attached.

I don't have a stud/pipe/cable finder, the cables all disappear right through the back of the fridge in what looks like a hidden void, and appear again behind the Truma, but one must split off to power the fridge there so all at the back not the side, and I'm not doing an access hole in the side of the van just yet   so looks like disconnecting the fridge is the only way into the gubbins on top, which I'm not going to do as I might break something which he rightly won't want to pay for.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Sorry Kev, I didn't realise it was a gas issue too!!!

Looking at your control knob I would guess that (top to bottom) the settings are 60c hot water/40c hot water/off/heating only/heating and 60c hot water.

When you select anything (other than off) does a light come on within the centre of the switch. I think there would be one that would be green when switched on but would go amber or red if there was some sort of failure in the ignition or gas side.

If you've got no lights at all then that suggests a lack of 12v to the boiler control. If it's coming on then going red then maybe a gas issue?

You may have already explained this earlier in the thread and I missed it, in which case just ignore me.:smile2:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

The observant among you will not is in the first and last pictures the flue baffle is missing, you didn't ah well no worries, I took the opportunity to whip it out gorra replace and possibly add a extra fan to the top vent too, see is it already got one and proper switch too.

But why make the rod out of stainless, then make the baffle out of something which will rust.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Shame these aren't 100 fans
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-...hash=item2a3486e90e:m:m28YZYZHKm-vr0VfjM6wSiA

Thinking about getting 3-4 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-120mm...394926?hash=item35edf30aee:g:ZuUAAOSwDNdVqSrg


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Sorry Kev, I didn't realise it was a gas issue too!!!
> 
> Looking at your control knob I would guess that (top to bottom) the settings are 60c hot water/40c hot water/off/heating only/heating and 60c hot water.
> 
> ...


I'd never ignore you Phil  

Right, yes green lights on every point of the knob, no reds, did get yellows and reds yesterday prior to gas being plumbed in.

Gassit stuff just arrived so I'll fit that in tomorrow, knees and back are about had it today, so I'm just going to see if the water has warmed up on MCB2, drain it and try again with just MCB 3 on.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Well that sounds promising, green is good!! I suppose once you've proved everything on the mains side of it (and dumped the hot water) you could just turn off the green switch, set it to heating and hot water on the rotary switch and see what occurs..................Why don't we have a fingers crossed emoticon.................I'll use a dodo instead! :chocobo3:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Well that sounds promising, green is good!! I suppose once you've proved everything on the mains side of it (and dumped the hot water) you could just turn off the green switch, set it to heating and hot water on the rotary switch and see what occurs..................Why don't we have a fingers crossed emoticon.................I'll use a dodo instead! :chocobo3:












Doing exactly that Phil

Testing with the MCB 3 on only.

With the switch on position C 40 or 60 
I get green & yellow light, and heat from the flue continuously for a few minutes

With the switch on position F, no lights as it's off

With the switch on position D
I get green light only no heat from flue

With the switch on position E
I get green & yellow light, and heat from the flue continuously for a few minutes

So I (at the moment have hot water on gas, but no heating.

My head is in a whirl as I'm really crap at this type of trouble shooting and I'll have forgotten it all by morning


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Prolly a stoopid question, but you do have the 12 volt on, don't you. The top left button on the oblong Sargent panel. Ared light should come on next to the button. The heating control won't come on without it.

When the hot water starts heating you should get a yellow light come on behind the thermostat. It goes off when the water reaches the set temperature.


----------



## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Those controls are the same as mine kev. the two top ones are basically for summertime where the heating is not needed and 2 temps if you do not want it really hot.
Centre is of course OFF
the other two are for hot water and heating and hot water together.
The green light shows that the system is working, if a red light comes on then it is not. the amber light is showing that the water is heating but not reached the temp required.it goes out when it has.

hope this makes it clear for you.

cabby


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Prolly a stoopid question, but you do have the 12 volt on, don't you. The top left button on the oblong Sargent panel. Ared light should come on next to the button. The heating control won't come on without it.
> 
> When the hot water starts heating you should get a yellow light come on behind the thermostat. It goes off when the water reaches the set temperature.




No way to turn the 12v off (as far as I know) except over the door on the control panel, but it is on, the red light on my Sargent unit is the Charger Geoff,

Ah, that explains the yellow light then Cheers Tuggs  

Right back to heating, I had the the Truma thermostat turned right down so it didn't confuse the boiler issue yesterday, turn it to above 5 and it fires up, but then it starts cycling on and off, I've done a recording, but cant attach it so I'll do a link it very quiet on my PC though.

Recording of Truma


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Maybe when the green switch is off things automatically default to gas, I don't know.[/I][/B]


Beginning to look that way Geoff.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

It's difficult to tell from your recording what's happening Kev.

Assuming the thing operates similarly to ours, there are 2 fans on the combi, one is the main blown air fan and the other is an exhaust fan which forces the burnt gases out through the external vent. 

When you switch it on do you get anything coming out of the blown air vents (hot or cold)? It may be idea to shut off the butterfly valves on all but one vent as it's easier to feel the air flow then. 

Or another thought..........are all the vents already closed off and the heater is trying to blow hot air out that has nowhere to go??


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> It's difficult to tell from your recording what's happening Kev.
> 
> Assuming the thing operates similarly to ours, there are 2 fans on the combi, one is the main blown air fan and the other is an exhaust fan which forces the burnt gases out through the external vent.
> 
> ...


You can hear the exhaust fan and the blow fan when you're next to it, all vents are wide open and you can feel air movement albeit slight.

I'm just going to shut the van up for the night, it keeps raining and I don't want a wet floor, as I have no WiFi in the van I'm in and out.

Thanks for all the helps so far chapess and chaps (ladies first  ),


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Just as an aside, to lighten the mood.............

Stop calling me 'Geoffrey', Kev, reminds me of my mum when I was naughty as a child.:grin2:

I bet your mum yelled Ke-VIN!>


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> Just as an aside, to lighten the mood.............
> 
> Stop calling me 'Geoffrey', Kev, reminds me of my mum when I was naughty as a child.:grin2:
> 
> I bet your mum yelled Ke-VIN!>


You just can't seem to please some arses, I thought I was being nice and polite.

I thought the mood was fine, just set me RSI off doing all the thanks on the thread, I shalln't bother with you next time.


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

tugboat said:


> I'm not arguing that you only have the one control over the door, your photos clearly show that.
> 
> I'm just puzzled as to how you're supposed to choose your power source for the heating. Maybe when the green switch is off things automatically default to gas, I don't know. Maybe Kay can be more help when she has time, as she has the same model van as you, I think. However she seems to have the extra power supply control. Don't know if your vehicles are similar age or not.
> 
> I checked the label on my boiler, the model is C EH603-A, so different to yours and maybe a different control system.


Controls on mine are identical to yours Geoff but our van is the Kontiki 655


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

It has been known for the pipes that the air is blown through to become disconnected from various connectors - one of ours had worked loose at the boiler so thats worth checking

It takes a few minutes of heating before the blown air (12v) fan kicks in


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> You just can't seem to please some arses, I thought I was being nice and polite.
> 
> I thought the mood was fine, just set me RSI off doing all the thanks on the thread, I shalln't bother with you next time.


I think Tuggers was just trying to be amusing, he has been helping you a lot so doesn't really deserve that Kev?


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

That's alright, Kay, he can't help being a :knob:! He and I get on OK. He'd better stop calling me Geoffrey though, or we're gonna have issues.:rightfighter7:


----------



## Kaytutt (Feb 5, 2013)

Ho Kay Geoffrey


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Hoo boy, we need a dislick button on this forum!:hathat8:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Kaytutt said:


> It has been known for the pipes that the air is blown through to become disconnected from various connectors - one of ours had worked loose at the boiler so thats worth checking
> 
> It takes a few minutes of heating before the blown air (12v) fan kicks in


I'm going to look at one today which felt insecure yesterday afternoon, others were warm and this was cold.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Kaytutt said:


> I think Tuggers was just trying to be amusing, he has been helping you a lot so doesn't really deserve that Kev?


I think he knows I was doing likewise Kay, I've never had a problem with Tuggs at least I hope he knows I was only messing, as he's been very help as have you and others in this thread.

Just incase he really is offended, come on Geoff, you know me better than that.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> That's alright, Kay, he can't help being a :knob:! He and I get on OK. He'd better stop calling me Geoffrey though, or we're gonna have issues.:rightfighter7:


Oh alright then if you're going to take your ball home, Geoff it is for the rest of time :roll:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Kaytutt said:


> Ho Kay Geoffrey


:roll: oh but it's okay if she does it then :roll:


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

No it's not, she's been 'spoken to' elsewhere. I cannot be expected to accept being called Geoffrey. Some things are just too burdensome and you lot have got to stop winding me up, or I'll have a right old flounce. So there!:grin2:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> No it's not, she's been 'spoken to' elsewhere. I cannot be expected to accept being called Geoffrey. Some things are just too burdensome and you lot have got to stop winding me up, or I'll have a right old flounce. So there!:grin2:


I know for sure you have been called far mucho worserer than that tuggywuggy, I know because I've didded the deed.

Anyway back to topic.

I was going to remove the fridge to day as I changed my mind about it, but on reflection, I'll leave it as is and let the sellers fixer sort that one out, and i'll continue with the more accessible heating today and hopefully get a plan together of how it all operates and does so on demand, as my mind has lost the plot a little regarding what needs to be on or off to make things work off EHU.

We're off on the 21st to the Lincoln steam rally, so I have a little time to get it sorted properly.


----------



## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> :roll: oh but it's okay f she does it then :roll:


For god sake kev let it go, you do know Tuggs got an A+ on his last flouncing certificate. So it beats your B- :grin2:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

dghr272 said:


> For god sake kev let it go, you do know Tuggs got an A+ on his last flouncing certificate. So it beats your B- :grin2:


Pah!! I can beat a B- I wasn't even there for my 11 & 13 plus exams, didn't do anything with a "level" after it, I was off and away, never really did skool, far more interesting things to get up to, my only passes are Bike and Car driving licences, I'm probably the lowest qualified chap on here, bit late to worry about it now, anyway stop going on about Toggy, he's having a meltdown, been planning it for months.

Hey Geoffers, you fix the your rear end yet?


----------



## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Wow, thought you were old enough to buy your licences soz


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

dghr272 said:


> Wow, thought you were old enough to buy your licences soz


You'll have to explain that one :?: :?: :?:


----------



## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Licences were introduced in 1903, up until the test introduction in 1935 you just bought one.

Lost its impact now, try and keep up.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

dghr272 said:


> Licences were introduced in 1903, up until the test introduction in 1935 you just bought one.
> 
> Lost its impact now, try and keep up.


Ah well, if you have to be cryptic :roll: twas a bit before my time.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I rang Tuggs yesterday afternoon to chat about the blown air heating as I finally got it to fire up, but it was cycling on and off, fans going silly etc, and he's the only one I know who has a similar heater set up and who was daft enough to give me there number, but he was as wise as I am on this.

It was producing heat through the vents, which were all open (only one in the bathroom though tight sods), but going on and off all the time, I don't think it's temperature related as the dial was set at No 9, and I could rotate it as far down as No 6 before it turned it off.

Geoff ( he really is a lovely chap, have to stop winding him up, but I'm his only entertainment now Barfy has absconded ) suggested I ring Truma, which I've been putting off until I had done as much as could on my own and with you guys helping me along and encouraging me (I'm sure someone with a better working brain would have sussed it by now) anyway I had their number in my phone from when I had trouble with the E4000 in the self build, barstewards knock off at 1.30pm on Fridays :roll: :roll:

So I'm back out there this morning, I moved van to the other side of the drive so I could get access to the LB lockers, and as it's a bit colder, 14c, so I tried to fire up the heating again, it must have taken 5 minutes to even cough, then it started cycling and farting about, but no heat was forthcoming, so I've turned it off for now.

So we are a bit further, we have a cold fridge on LGP only (can't test it legally on DC yet) we have hot water on EHU and LPG, Cooker seems to be fine, but not tested the sing electric ring, as we'll never use it.

I don't think I have heating via EHU, so I just need to get the fridge working on EHU and the Heating on LPG, I assume the water heater and air heaters work on different burners.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Messing with the additional LBs today, I've can put them under the bed which means 1.0m of cable for -&+ or in a nearby locker which would need 2.0m -&+ I used to use this site to do calcs but it looks like they've changed it.

LBs are 125 x 3, I've forgotten how to work it out, I was thinking 25mm2 but I'm unsure now.

I need to get it right as I'm doing the crimps myself and need to buy the right size crimp tool.


----------



## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I rang Tuggs yesterday afternoon to chat about the blown air heating as I finally got it to fire up, but it was cycling on and off, fans going silly etc, and he's the only one I know who has a similar heater set up and who was daft enough to give me there number, but he was as wise as I am on this.
> 
> It was producing heat through the vents, which were all open (only one in the bathroom though tight sods), but going on and off all the time, I don't think it's temperature related as the dial was set at No 9, and I could rotate it as far down as No 6 before it turned it off.
> 
> ...


Not so. I frequently give him an abusive phone call when away in the van. He seems to enjoy them.

If you called the Tugboat Motorhome / Scooter / Kayak help line you will be getting an invoice. £99.99 per incident, ill send you the bill via paypal. The Tugboat helpline is property of Motorhome Fruitcakes PLC you see. Thank you for using it, have a nice day. 

On the plus side regarding your van Kev, once you have fettled it if you flog it I reckon you will make £5K easy. Then you can come up to the dales and put mine in shape before it goes up for sale.  Ill give you a years free subscription to the Tuggers gold service support system as payment which includes a free stay at his house and all the gin you can eat.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

barryd said:


> Not so. I frequently give him an abusive phone call when away in the van. He seems to enjoy them.
> 
> If you called the Tugboat Motorhome / Scooter / Kayak help line you will be getting an invoice. £99.99 per incident, ill send you the bill via paypal. The Tugboat helpline is property of Motorhome Fruitcakes PLC you see. Thank you for using it, have a nice day.
> 
> On the plus side regarding your van Kev, once you have fettled it if you flog it I reckon you will make £5K easy. Then you can come up to the dales and put mine in shape before it goes up for sale.  Ill give you a years free subscription to the Tuggers gold service support system as payment which includes a free stay at his house and all the gin you can eat.


I knew the van wasn't without problems, but as you say there's is a max of £5k if I was to move it on, it was part of my reason to buy.

As for sorting yours, I'm struggling to sort this one out TBH, my knees are not liking all the getting up and down and kneeling for long periods, I'm needing 3 different pairs of specs for the different distances, PITA to be honest.


----------



## barryd (May 9, 2008)

I was only joking Kev. The main thing this van needs really is tarting up on the outside. Its pretty immaculate on the inside but is well faded on the exterior.

If it wasnt for your dodgy knees Kev (I know how it feels) I bet you could make a good living doing this.


----------



## aldra (Jul 2, 2009)

Our gas filler is on the skirt, no problem fitting it, Albert did it , much like yours Kev

We were refused to fill once......because we had the filler nozzles in the locker, and had to open it to retrieve the correct filler

Now we keep them in the cab door 

I guess it depends on the garage regulations !!!

Are you putting a gas point for a BBQ ? we find ours very useful and cook outdoors whenever possible 

Enjoy watching your renovations
Sandra


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

aldra said:


> Our gas filler is on the skirt, no problem fitting it, Albert did it , much like yours Kev
> 
> We were refused to fill once......because we had the filler nozzles in the locker, and had to open it to retrieve the correct filler
> 
> ...


I think it has a BBQ point already, but we prefer proper food anyway


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I tried the heater on LPG again about 2 hours ago and it fired up fairly quickly, but was cycling again so I turned it off, 20 minutes ago I tried again and it wouldn't fire up at all.
the 

I'm thinking there must either be a problem with the burner, the solenoid gas valves or the heating side or PCB.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I tried the heater on LPG again about 2 hours ago and it fired up fairly quickly, but was cycling again so I turned it off, 20 minutes ago I tried again and it wouldn't fire up at all.
> the
> 
> I'm thinking there must either be a problem with the burner, the solenoid gas valves or the heating side or PCB.


Nothing "nesting" in the exhaust flue is there Kev?? :wink2:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Nothing "nesting" in the exhaust flue is there Kev?? :wink2:


No I had a torch down it yesterday after removing the cover as I had a similar thought.

For the E4000 in the self build I had a the full manual so I could meter up the official test points, but I have nothing for this one.


----------



## Drew (May 30, 2005)

Hi Kev,

Having just changed your gas bottles, is your gas regulator suitable? I had to replace mine when I changed to refillable bottles.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Drew said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> Having just changed your gas bottles, is your gas regulator suitable? I had to replace mine when I changed to refillable bottles.


I went wit existing one, but swapped it out just in case, it made no difference so never mentioned it earlier.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Fridge Freezer now working on 230v sucking 1amp on the overdoor gauge   I've put a cup of water in about 30 mins ago to test it.

I decided to venture into the mains switch, so pulled the panel and put the fridge onto AC, and up went the ammeter so I need to get new switched fused spur this time with a Neon to show if all it well..

So just the blown air to sort out now, I'll report back on the cup of water later.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

New switched fused spur fitteded, so right old spaghetti in there, one wire Red, continues into black, the incoming cable was so short there was no way could have reconnected the new switch so I had to extend it 300mm, but all back together and working.

Would I be correct in thinking that if the ammeter is showing current then something is working?, the fridges data label says it should be showing 1a @ 240v = 220w, it is slightly less that 1a, maybe 0.8a.

I may know sod all about electrics, but I do not leave anything I've done look so bloody awful.

I had to re fix the support piece as this and a couple of others have all come adrift, Swift seem to think that a little glue (onto vinyl) and a 15mm pin will secure a 12mm piece of wood to a piece of ply, and of course it might if they put it in from the ply side :roll: :roll:


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

In your 4th pic showing the back of the switch, is that scorching near the bulb?


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

tugboat said:


> In your 4th pic showing the back of the switch, is that scorching near the bulb?


Yeah that's the old one Geoff, it'd not been fixed properly at the factory and it'd got very hot so lucky it hadn't caught fire I suppose, new MK one in now, and terminals not left loose like Swift did.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Difficult to say what the ammeter reading is referring too without seeing how it's wired but I would think it highly unlikely that it is wired to the 240v side of things in the van.

More likely it's wired into the 12v in some way, perhaps just to give an indication of battery useage as a reminder to switch things off that aren't needed.

At a guess the 1 amp reading you were seeing was possibly the 12v being used by the fridge control circuit, as opposed to the 240v being used by the element.

P.S. If the ammeter is wired into the 240v supply then the only purpose I can think it serves is to monitor overall consumption whilst on mains hookup to ensure that you don't overload the site supply (particularly abroad where 4a/6a supplies are commonplace).


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> Difficult to say what the ammeter reading is referring too without seeing how it's wired but I would think it highly unlikely that it is wired to the 240v side of things in the van.
> 
> More likely it's wired into the 12v in some way, perhaps just to give an indication of battery useage as a reminder to switch things off that aren't needed.
> 
> ...


I think it must be on the 230v side Phil, it only registers when the fridge or the hot water heater is on when on EHU, must try the electric ring though, nothing on 12v moves it, seems to make it move.

I'm relatively happy, almost all the problems I had a week ago are now sorted, plus a few others I didn't bother anyone with, like siting the 600w inverter, near to the LBs, cow of a job to do neatly, so I cheated for now and didn't, I await inspiration for that one.

We're going away for a few days on Tuesday evening should be back Sunday, not going far.

Many thanks to all for the assistance.


----------



## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I think it must be on the 230v side Phil, it only registers when the fridge or the hot water heater is on when on EHU, must try the electric ring though, nothing on 12v moves it, seems to make it move.
> 
> I'm relatively happy, almost all the problems I had a week ago are now sorted, plus a few others I didn't bother anyone with, like siting the 600w inverter, near to the LBs, cow of a job to do neatly, so I cheated for now and didn't, I await inspiration for that one.
> 
> ...


As you say, it does sound like it's on the mains side of things, unusual but there you go!!

Good to hear you are getting sorted and getting away, though if you're anything like me you'll still be tinkering whilst sat in the middle of a field somewhere :smile2::smile2:


----------



## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Yes he is the flip side of barryd, instead of breaking things in the middle of nowhere Kev is fixing things.:wink2:

cabby


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Cheers Drew.
> 
> LB is 100%, all 12v items apart from heating & water are working okay on or off EHU, need hoses to hook up the Gaslow bottles before I can proceed further with water or blown air side.
> 
> ...


I will endeavour (but probably fail) to attach the Swift Manual for our vehicle to this....

the systems are VERY similar.

The green water heater ONLY works if the cylinder is full of water and the mains is switched on, it drains 600w so your jump to 2a would be correct.

Fuses are not shown in the correct place always - there are several places to look - by driver's knee on dashboard, in similar place for passenger, under scuttle behind air filter for 12v to step and fridge (not mentioned in ANY handbook) as well as those on the unit in the wardrobe.....

I just KNEW it would not attach so have sent a PM requesting an e-mail address as that should allow me to send ti.....


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

philoaks said:


> As you say, it does sound like it's on the mains side of things, unusual but there you go!!
> 
> Good to hear you are getting sorted and getting away, though if you're anything like me you'll still be tinkering whilst sat in the middle of a field somewhere :smile2::smile2:


Argh!! who told on me, oddly I've only had to fix coachbuilts, the self build was fine except for leak over the cab, and I didn't build that bit, it was where all the different panels join and should overlap but don't so they fill it with silicone or some such mastic, they'd missed a bit and Lizs seat belt always felt damp, so I found a convenient wall to stand on and splogged plenty of Stixall on til we got home, never did do a proper fix on it.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Mobile repair man came yesterday afternoon, Nice chap, Brian Rushworth @ http://www.mobilecaravanengineers.co.uk/find-an-engineer/?dir-item=b-r-caravan-services did a full diagnostic on the heater and boiler.

He could have saved a lot of time if he'd listened to all the diagnosis we've done between us, but he was at least thorough (unlike the idiot who came to look at the self build Truma E4000 and spent almost the whole time on the phone to Truma) anyway he discovered that the fan stopped spinning and this shut down the boiler due to overheat, but it cooled down quickly and fired up again quicker than the red fails system could kick in.

He metered everything that the manual suggested and concluded the PCB was failing in the fan control circuit possibly, and that he should send the board to Truma for checking to be sure, which I agreed to once we came back from this shakedown jaunt.

He started packing his gear away, and was about to close up the manual folder when he noticed there was one more test he could run, it was on the last page of the manual, and this was the remote temp sensor, he just happened to have a new spare one, had it 5 years, never needed it, he plugged it in and the heater ran like a top, sounds like a bloody jet engine on re-heat when the 6kw side kicked in, and it didn't shut down or cycle until it was told to a was getting a bit warm in there.

So he looked at the sensor, but no way would it come out of its push fit hole, I had to remove the terminals and persuade it with a hammer, and it took some shifting I'll tell you, so it must have been hammered in too, thanks Swift you W*****s why not drill the hole the right size, he miced up the sensor, it was 10mm, hole was only 9.5.

While there he checked the regulator and reckoned it was badly mounted, and perhaps needed a brand new one, (I just fitted one I had) the one I took out was a 2004 dated one so well past it's sell by date so he's ordered a new Truma one and will come back to install that once we return and move it up the 50mm it need to be above the cylinders.

So job done.

Got some 35mm2 cable and crimp ends from a little place I found up the road, just waiting for me new crimper to arrive to sort out the extra LBs, done a temp fix so we have the inverter to use for now.


----------

