# Mains connected in storage?



## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

Should the mains be left connected when the van isn’t being used?

I am in the fortunate position of being able to keep the van at home and connected to an outside socket. I imagine that a van in storage for a couple of months could easily find the leisure battery run low or even flat and have heard that letting batteries discharge isn’t a good idea. On the other hand, there are stories that continuous charging isn’t good either. I’ve already had one Electroblock blow up (£500+ to replace!) though I couldn’t get an ‘expert’ opinion from the dealer whether leaving the van connected was a possible cause or even a good idea.

Does anyone know of an authoritative opinion?


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## StAubyns (Jun 4, 2006)

Not authoritive, but mine is plugged in at home whenever its there. I've done this more or less since I had it, 3 years ago  

And I have never had a problem, so hopefully, the answer, when it comes, will be "no problem" :?


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## eribiste (May 1, 2005)

All the motorhomes/caravans that we've had handbooks for have advised that they should be left 'hooked up'. Accordingly we always have done this, mostly with no trouble at all. I have had to replace one leisure battery, but that was because I got sloppy and didn't check the electrolyte level. The battery electrolyte level got too low, and after that the battery wouldn't hold charge.


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## ThursdaysChild (Aug 2, 2008)

I know it's only September, but winter is on the way. We keep the MH hooked up to the mains with a small electric heater set to maintain a minimum of 1°C. No frozen tanks or pipes and no damp or mould.


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## peedee (May 10, 2005)

StAubyns said:


> Not authoritive, but mine is plugged in at home whenever its there.


Mine too for the last 9 years! I also leave a heater on in it during the winter months but I do drain it down as well. No mold, no damp, no peoblems.

peedee


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## steco1958 (Mar 5, 2009)

Since having a caravan and now a MH stored at home for over 20 years, I always attach the mains (This does not mean charging the battery), we can then use the unit as a spare fridge / freezer, I also keep the heating on low.

On a regular basis I leave a light or several lights on and allow the battery to drain, and then re-charge it, and just before Christmas, I allow it to go flat , but instead of using the MH Charger, I use a proper charger and fully charge it.


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## Wizzo (Dec 3, 2007)

steco1958 said:


> On a regular basis I leave a light or several lights on and allow the battery to drain, and then re-charge it, and just before Christmas, I allow it to go flat , but instead of using the MH Charger, I use a proper charger and fully charge it.


I wouldn't have thought it's a good idea to let a battery go flat (except for NiCads) it must surely shorten its life?

JohnW


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

Wizzo said:


> steco1958 said:
> 
> 
> > On a regular basis I leave a light or several lights on and allow the battery to drain, and then re-charge it, and just before Christmas, I allow it to go flat , but instead of using the MH Charger, I use a proper charger and fully charge it.
> ...


Same here - battery life is quoted in "cycles" and that is most definitely a "cycle" and so one less life.


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

Interesting comments so far. I agree with the idea of leaving a heater on froststat/low settings during the cold months. You can do this without charging the batteries by disconnecting the Electroblock from the mains by pulling the mains plug out of the unit which means the 12v is shut down and I presume the battery charging as well. 

Setting the battery cut-off switch on the unit to off does not prevent the battery being charged though – it simply isolates all of the 12v stuff (including the boiler safety valve so expect the water to empty out of this).

I wouldn’t have thought it a good idea to drain either the leisure or engine batteries completely – in fact the book says that ‘total discharge damages the battery’.

It also says the leisure/living area battery should only be charged using the onboard transformer/rectifier (presumably the Electroblock). 

So far, I haven’t found any authoritative guidance on whether to leave the Electroblock connected to the mains at all times (when possible) or whether a regular partial drain*/re-charge is preferable. The weight of opinion so far seems to suggest it is left on – which would be easier!

*the book states that a 80Ah battery will discharge in 1.5 months if the boiler safety/drainage van is left on. If you push it off, the battery will take approx 9 months to expire.


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

I also came across this when searching the internet

http://www.schaudt-gmbh.de/uploads/media/NL20060804_-_OVP_01_EN.pdf

It's a spike protector/over voltage device made by the Electroblock people and apparently recommended if the van is exposed to these.

I'm wondering if not having one of these might've caused the problem I had as we our mains is fed by overhead cables and I've had spike problems on the PC previously.

Has any one used/fitted one - or know who supplies them?


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## DTPCHEMICALS (Jul 24, 2006)

Hooked up all the time. Dehumidifier on in winter months

Never had a problem with batteries.


Dave p


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

I find that the main battery goes flat if not left on charge. The leisure battery does not seem to be a problem.


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## peedee (May 10, 2005)

safariboy said:


> I find that the main battery goes flat if not left on charge. The leisure battery does not seem to be a problem.


That is why I bought a Battery Master, I have had less problems with my engine battery ever since.

peedee


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## asprn (Feb 10, 2006)

MHv2 said:


> Interesting comments so far. I agree with the idea of leaving a heater on froststat/low settings during the cold months. You can do this without charging the batteries by disconnecting the Electroblock from the mains by pulling the mains plug out of the unit which means the 12v is shut down and I presume the battery charging as well.
> 
> Setting the battery cut-off switch on the unit to off does not prevent the battery being charged though - it simply isolates all of the 12v stuff (including the boiler safety valve so expect the water to empty out of this).
> 
> ...


So let me display my ignorance then. On our RV, I've got an on-board unit with several mains circuit breakers and a load of 12v fuses. When I hook up, I have the option of switching on what I always understood was a 12v transformer via a trip switch (the 12v lighting becomes much brighter when it's switched on). When that's on, it hums loudly, and a cooling fan comes on usually after 5 minutes. (We switch that off at night as it annoys me.) The RV is now in storage; if I hook up but leave (what I think is) the transformer switched off, will it still charge the batteries? Is this what you refer to as the Electroblock?

I know that the main battery is charged along with the leisure batteries when they're charging, so if I could leave the van hooked up - but without the "transformer" chugging away - it would seem an ideal solution.

Dougie.


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## geraldandannie (Jun 4, 2006)

asprn said:


> I have the option of switching on what I always understood was a 12v transformer via a trip switch (the 12v lighting becomes much brighter when it's switched on). When that's on, it hums loudly, and a cooling fan comes on usually after 5 minutes.


Hi Dougie

I would guess that the "12V transformer" is the charger. I have the same when I put the van on hookup - the lights get brighter as the nominal 12V battery terminal voltage (probably nearer 12.5 V) gets bumped up to 13.7V or something like, and the battery starts charging.

In the winter, I leave van on hookup (to power an oil-filled rad) and the charger on all the time. I can ensure that both batteries will be fully charged when I next come to start the van. This winter, I may turn the charger off as we now have a solar panel, and there should be enough light hitting the panel to keep the batteries topped up.

If you do leave the charger on, it would be prudent to check the electrolyte level in the batteries (if possible) to make sure it's not evaporating away, but if the charger does its job properly, they should be OK.

Gerald


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## pippin (Nov 15, 2007)

asprn -could it be that your (USA) RV has a big 120V to 240V transformer?

It could be that which is buzzing.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

I never knew that so many people left their vans on hookup. I never have since we got it in May last year. I have only once had to jump start the engine battery but the Leisure battery always seems ok. Mind its used in the winter but may sit there for as long as a month. What do people do who put their MH into storage then?


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

With our previous vans there was no problem. Unfortunately modern designs take a load of about 150-200mA from the engine battery even when off. This will flatten the battery in about 2-3 weeks and in any event leaving a partly discharged battery for any length of time will cause it to "sulphate" and it will not be long before a new one is required.
Our storage site has mains available but if not I would use a solar panel.
The other point to watch is that your charger will stop charging when the battery reaches about 13.8V and not cause electrolyte to decompose. Modern vans seem to be OK but the manufacturer will be able to tell you.
The fact that you have required a jump start indicates that in the long term all is not well in the long term.
The alternative is to disconnect the battery but this can affect security systems etc. (see you instruction book for the cab part)


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## asprn (Feb 10, 2006)

geraldandannie said:


> I would guess that the "12V transformer" is the charger. I have the same when I put the van on hookup - the lights get brighter as the nominal 12V battery terminal voltage (probably nearer 12.5 V) gets bumped up to 13.7V or something like, and the battery starts charging.
> 
> In the winter, I leave van on hookup (to power an oil-filled rad) and the charger on all the time. I can ensure that both batteries will be fully charged when I next come to start the van. This winter, I may turn the charger off as we now have a solar panel, and there should be enough light hitting the panel to keep the batteries topped up.
> 
> If you do leave the charger on, it would be prudent to check the electrolyte level in the batteries (if possible) to make sure it's not evaporating away, but if the charger does its job properly, they should be OK


Hi Gerald,

Thanks very much for that. I agree that it's likely it's the charger, in which case, I'll leave it on (although with a little trepidation as it gets quite warm, hence the cooling fan). I also have a solar panel and have never had any problem with either battery(ies) as a result. However, the van is now laid up in a very large farm shed which although airy and dry, is very dark, so the panel will be as useful as a chocolate fireguard.



geraldandannie said:


> asprn -could it be that your (USA) RV has a big 120V to 240V transformer? It could be that which is buzzing


My RV quite unusually was manufactured in the US with 240v on board including UK sockets and appliances, before it was exported here. It's therefore not that, but it was a reasonable question. 

Dougie.


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## jaytee (Jul 19, 2009)

I have a hymer b class 2002, I keep it connected all the time. except for one year when I forgot! both the leisure and motor batteries were flat.I still have the original batteries working ok- 7 years old.

John


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## SilverF1 (Feb 27, 2009)

MHv2, I have a Hymer with an Electroblok EBL99G fitted. 

The mains hookup is left connected whenever the unit is parked up at home. This has been done for the last two and a half years, without any problems.


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## asprn (Feb 10, 2006)

SilverF1 said:


> MHv2, I have a Hymer with an Electroblok EBL99G fitted


Does it have a cooling fan which cuts in, and is it relatively noisy?

Dougie.


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

barryd said:


> What do people do who put their MH into storage then?


That's what prompted my question too.

My take of everything I've read so far is that if mains is available, then keep it plugged in.

I do turn the 12v off on the display above the habitation door if only to stop the water tank low alarm flashing! Doing this doesn't stop the batteries from being charged though.

I think if Mains wasn't available I'd use a solar panel. I've no idea what I'd do if the van was stored in the dark!

By the way, there's a chance that my Electroblock failure was caused by a power surge and the device I mentioned earlier in this thread is available for around £120 including taxes, p&p - further information in another thread on the issue here http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-705711.html#705711
if the link didn't work, it's a topic titled 'Electrobloc Surge Protector' in the Electrical forum.

pricey but a lot cheaper than a new Electroblock!


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi.
Those of us with big solar panels are hooked up all the time with no battery problems. (hope fully)


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## SilverF1 (Feb 27, 2009)

asprn said:


> SilverF1 said:
> 
> 
> > MHv2, I have a Hymer with an Electroblok EBL99G fitted
> ...


No fan noise from mine. Just checked the wiring block-diagram, no fan.


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

SilverF1 said:


> MHv2, I have a Hymer with an Electroblok EBL99G fitted.


Silver - mine is an Electroblock EBL 101 and it doesn't have a fan either.

Thankfully , it's also completely silent - which is good as anything that hums seems to keep me awake at night!

What did surprise me is the weight and 'emptyness' of the unit. I have no reason to believe it isn't more than adequate but my past user experience of battery chargers and step down transformers is that these are usually quite weighty. By 'emptyness' I mean that peering through the slits in the sides, there's a good deal of air space inside the box - it isn't crammed with electronic bits, coils etc.

Because I kept the old 'burnt out' unit I was able to pop it on the kitchen scales - 1.8Kg. Amazing - but then I suppose, being light is good in a motorhome!


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## geraldandannie (Jun 4, 2006)

My charger has a fan, but it rarely cuts in. I certainly wouldn't expect it to come on when trickle charging the batteries on hookup over winter.

Usually, it's when we have the heating on in the winter, and the underbed area (which houses the boiler and the charger) gets warm, and we're taking power out of the batteries with lights (although now changed to LED), warm air fan and TV.

Gerald


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

MHv2 said:


> SilverF1 said:
> 
> 
> > MHv2, I have a Hymer with an Electroblok EBL99G fitted.
> ...


Its the absence of transformers that make chargers lighter than they were in the past.


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

We park ours at home so hookup is adjacent. We connect hookup a couple of days before we are "off" as the Mrs stocks the fridge and freezer.

Other than that the solar panel keeps both batteries in tip top condition.

Are we doung it wrong?

C.


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## Telbell (May 1, 2005)

> We park ours at home so hookup is adjacent. We connect hookup a couple of days before we are "off" as the Mrs stocks the fridge and freezer.


Same here Clive- at least we do now we have a solar panel. Saves a bit on leccy bill, surely?

I do keep an eye on the control panel though as I don't have a battery master yet


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## DOC (May 18, 2005)

*Hook up in storage*

Hi there - I keep my motorhome hooked up whilst on the drive at home and also run a small thermostatically controlled heater during the winter.
I also have a small dehumidifier that runs permanently, works fine, no damp or mould and only cost about £30 to buy.
One thing to note is that the fridge does not like being run on mains permanently, they are designed for intermittant use. Mine burnt out and I was advised by the repair man not to leave it on all the time.
Happy motorhoming.
DOC


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## zappy61 (May 1, 2005)

I keep ours hooked up all the time. I alternate the charging between vehicle battery and leisure battery. I have always done this on 2 previous M/H's and never repaced a battery. I leave and oil filled radiator on frost setting in the cold months and drain everything off. I do have a breathable cover which I think is one of the best things I bought for about £80

Graham


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## Hymie (May 9, 2005)

*Elektroblok*

Remember that Schaudt - the manufacturers of Elektroblok units will repair them for a flat fee.

last one i read about had cost the owner around 90 euros.

Happy Travels


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

*Re: Elektroblok*



Hymie said:


> Remember that Schaudt - the manufacturers of Elektroblok units will repair them for a flat fee.
> 
> last one i read about had cost the owner around 90 euros.
> 
> Happy Travels


That's worth noting - thanks.

If we assume £30 p&p for a round trip to Schaudt and back again that still comes in a heck of lot cheaper than the £505* I was charged to replace it with a new one, which anyway took a couple of weeks from order to fix.

*(unit £380+£66.50 VAT, labour fit & test £50+8.75 VAT)

I kept my failed unit - one wonders what might've happened to it if I hadn't!


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## dovtrams (Aug 18, 2009)

*hook up to electric power on your drive*

:?: This sounds a great idea, but for someone who is approaching his first winter with a motorhome, do I also leave my heating system on a low thermostat, or is it better to drain the water system and use another heater to keep the frost at bay?


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## MHv2 (Jun 27, 2006)

*Re: hook up to electric power on your drive*



dovtrams said:


> :?: This sounds a great idea, but for someone who is approaching his first winter with a motorhome, do I also leave my heating system on a low thermostat, or is it better to drain the water system and use another heater to keep the frost at bay?


I would definitely drain down all the habitation water (don't forget the water in the boiler behind the frost guard switch) and make sure your screen wash has a healthy mix of something to protect against freezing.

I'd also make sure the fuel tank is full. Then, if you have electrics, keep the van connected and place a small oil filled radiator with a thermostat set to low in the middle of the van plugged into one of the vans mains sockets (I check it clicks on when the outside temperature is near freezing).

If it's a Hymer there's a section in the back of the manual about winterising - and probably a few topics here if you do a search.


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