# Spluttering water!



## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

My 2102 Comanche suffers from spluttering water and it appears that air is getting into the system somehow. My water pump also over-runs on occasion as well. It seems to be better after a drive but then by the next day on site, the spluttering/overrun starts.

I also have dodgy readings on my control panel saying that the fresh water tank is empty when I know that it isn't.

Do any of you folks suffer from any of this?

I have booked our local Caravan medic to have a look at the water system next Friday: hopefully he will just need to tighten a few things up...nothing major.

I guess the water readings could be to do with the probes. If they cant be cleaned does anyone know the name/part no of them in case I need to replace? Also are they accessible?

ta

Graham:smile2:


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## peaky (Jul 15, 2009)

ive just changed my shurflo pump, I had the overrun for about a year and intermittent running by itself, but recently when operating the tap it sounded like airwas mixing in with the flow. Turns out the pump was leaking prob from the diaphragm but I decided on balance to change the whole unit all noise is greatly reduced and no over run , happy bunny. worth checking for leaks me thinks.


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

peaky said:


> ive just changed my shurflo pump, I had the overrun for about a year and intermittent running by itself, but recently when operating the tap it sounded like airwas mixing in with the flow. Turns out the pump was leaking prob from the diaphragm but I decided on balance to change the whole unit all noise is greatly reduced and no over run , happy bunny. worth checking for leaks me thinks.


Hi Peaky

Thanks for this.

Could I ask the cost? Please PM me if you want rather than posting here

ta

Graham:smile2:


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## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Yo, Graham.

It sounds like air is getting into the system between tank and pump. Is your pump within the tank or elsewhere under the floor? If the pump is separate from the tank, the pipe comes from the tank, through a little filter next to the pump, and then into the pump itself. I reckon the main suspect is the wee filter. The cap may be letting in air, or the filter element may need cleaning. You should be able to check those yourself and maybe save yourself a few bob in the process. It would be easy to change the complete filter assembly if necessary, just a couple of jubilee clips.

Do you have an accumulator fitted next to the pump? That won't be causing air to get in, but if you also have pulsing flow issues, an accumulator will smooth that out.

Let us know if you have a look at things yourself, these systems are really quite simple.


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

What-ho Tuggers:grin2:

The pump is 'handily' under the fixed bed. By handily I mean that I have to heft over 50% of me into the recess with my legs up in the air whilst I check it...with torch in mouth!

Via the troubleshooting guide that I have for the pump, I've checked the filter: undone it, cleaned it, screwed it up as tight as I dare:smile2:

It appeared to do the trick the first time but not on subsequent times.

Graham:smile2:


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## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

OK, matey, well if you've checked the clips are all tight, if I was you I'd just fit a new filter unit complete. At the very least I'd remove it and check it for cracks. A smear of vaseline on the cover seal might help too.

The thought of your physical antics is causing my body to struggle between laughter and biliousness. Hopefully it will have cleared by lunchtime!>


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Graham - we changed our 7 year old Shurflo pump Trail King for a new one some 6 months ago as we were having similar problems to what you describe.

Decided to go for the 30psi/10.6lt/min but wish we'd stayed with the standard 20psi//7lt/min one as fitted by Swift. Reason - all's fine on the sink tap as there's no flow restrictors fitted in the kitchen tap spout but the Eco Camel shower head is quite restrictive on back pressure, as is the bathroom basin tap. The 30psi model kept hunting when the basin tap was open and the pump then required about an hour of tweaking the pressure switch and playing around with the accumulator charge pressure - this is something we wouldn't have to do with the 20psi model. Only plus side is that the 30psi model fills the kitchen sink very quickly lol.

Expect to pay £50-60. We bought this one (albeit the 30psi model) and it came with a new filter and bowl in the price http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHURFLO-T...n-Motorhome-/150991066980?hash=item2327c4d764#


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

Cheers DfD

We'll see what my chap says and take it from there.

Great info - ta:smile2:

Graham:smile2:


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

I have discovered that ours is leaking from the pump itself and am now trying to locate the correct part to replace it....

It is a 2095 pump, 8.0 litres per minute and 20psi.

I have e-mailed Shurflo as they do not answer their phone.....

They sent me to a place in another Department but did not tell me what part I needed - useful as there appear to be a large number of similar items listed and the French web page is impossible to get a response from....

So I have now e-mailed a UK company to ask their advice......

I do not want to fit a new pump as that is 90€ plus postage........

so watch this space.......

Dave


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

My chap is due any minute so fingers crossed:smile2:

After he is gone I'm panning on cleaning the MH including the roof prior to 6 nights in Charmouth starting tomorrow:grin2:

Graham:smile2:


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

Simple fix: my filter housing didn't have an O ring in it. I guess on a previous hab check this must have fallen out.

I didn't spot it as I had no real point of reference to check it against. Anyway if it doesn't solve the problem its the Caravan Doctor's problem now:smile2:

Graham:smile2:


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## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

tugboat said:


> A smear of vaseline on the cover seal might help too.


Told you so. Told you so.

Ner ner nerner ner.>>

Glad you're sorted though.


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

You start smearing things then you could get into serious trouble, the newspapers discovered this.>>

cabby


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

tugboat said:


> Told you so. Told you so.
> 
> Ner ner nerner ner.>>
> 
> Glad you're sorted though.


I have no need to keep the stuff in the house Tuggers but by the sounds of it you do >

He did check the rest of the system thoroughly as well so I'm happy. We'll try it out in the next 6 days and see whats what.

Graham:smile2:


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## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Great stuff. Hope it all works OK.

A non-toxic, non-water-soluble lubricant is a handy addition to the toolbox/medicine cabinet. What do those rugby scrum fellows put on their lugholes and chapped lips? You never know when you might get roped into a game of rugger, whatwhat.

Be prepared, dib dib dob.


Sorry, Graham, I'm having one of my silly spells today.


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

Hmmmm


NB Its rugby or football...NEVER "rugger"[-X

Graham:smile2:


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## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

I know, hence the whatwhat. I was doing my Terry Thomas impression.:laughing6:


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## DBSS (Jun 30, 2013)

GMJ said:


> Simple fix: my filter housing didn't have an O ring in it. I guess on a previous hab check this must have fallen out.
> 
> I didn't spot it as I had no real point of reference to check it against. Anyway if it doesn't solve the problem its the Caravan Doctor's problem now:smile2:
> 
> Graham:smile2:


 Graham,

Unless I am missing a trick, I don't understand why the water pump would be dismantled for a Hab Check? Even more curious for me is if the O ring was missing and air was being drawn under demand by the pump, surely when the system was in idle, no pressure demand, there would have been evidence of a water leak seeping at the air ingress point.??

My pump splutters intermittently but upto now have been unable to establish the reason why as there are no apparent leaks and have check tightened all the connections I can get my hands on....:smile2:

cheers Ian


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

When you say your filter housing, did you mean the one on the pump or the one on the NaturePure housing? The former is unlikely to be taken apart IMO the latter would be taken apart if the filter is removed for the winter?

Just a thought?

Dave


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## stewartwebr (May 27, 2005)

Hope "Your chap" got the problem resolved for you?


When I have had this problem it has normally been in winter and I find the cause due to a crack on the fresh water inlet pump filter bowl. Water seems to freeze in the filter housing and cracks it causing air to get drawn in by the pump. My new Niesmann had exactly this problem, but during the summer, so not caused by freezing. I replaced it for £8 and everything resolved, it was 5 minute job and not worth going back to the dealer.


Hope it's something simple like this for you.


Stewart


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

DBSS said:


> Graham,
> 
> Unless I am missing a trick, I don't understand why the water pump would be dismantled for a Hab Check? Even more curious for me is if the O ring was missing and air was being drawn under demand by the pump, surely when the system was in idle, no pressure demand, there would have been evidence of a water leak seeping at the air ingress point.??
> 
> ...


I'm not sure I said the water pump gets dismantled did I? Its a separate filter next to the pump which needs checking every so often and the filter cleaned. I am guessing that at some stage someone (hab check? Maybe?) did this and the o ring went missing hence air being able to get in the system. There was physical evidence of a small leak from the filter housing and I guess where water can get out, air can get in....

Anyway the job seems half sorted as the spluttering is better: none from the shower; occasionally from the kitchen; and regularly from the bathroom!

I'm getting the bloke back to have another look plus fitting a non return valve in the water feed as I'm getting warm water through my cold taps initially upon turning them on

Graham:smile2:


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Graham - on opening the cold tap, is the water warm or hot (hot tap temp)? If it only runs warm for a few seconds, it's more than likely the cold pipe is picking up heat from the heating ducting or more commonly, where the blue cold pipework sits in the vicinity of the boiler. At least this is the case in our Kontiki.


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## Harrers (Dec 21, 2011)

tugboat said:


> Great stuff. Hope it all works OK.
> 
> A non-toxic, non-water-soluble lubricant is a handy addition to the toolbox/medicine cabinet. What do those rugby scrum fellows put on their lugholes and chapped lips? You never know when you might get roped into a game of rugger, whatwhat.
> 
> ...


I think you'll find it's spelt "dyb" - short for " do your best" :wink2:

I was a leaping wolf!


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## GMJ (Jun 24, 2014)

deefordog said:


> Graham - on opening the cold tap, is the water warm or hot (hot tap temp)? If it only runs warm for a few seconds, it's more than likely the cold pipe is picking up heat from the heating ducting or more commonly, where the blue cold pipework sits in the vicinity of the boiler. At least this is the case in our Kontiki.


Its a few seconds. I have bought a non return valve which I'll fit next week to see if that helps with this.

Graham:smile2:


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Our problem is now sorted, I fitted a new SHURFlo pump (purchased from Leisureshop Direct) and delivered within 4 days to us in deepest France. 

Actually changing it took about 30 minutes and only required a screwdriver and a suitable sized spanner to ensure the connections are tight enough.

It worked immediately and once the air had been pushed out of the pipes there is no more spluttering....

RESULT !

Cost of replacement pump £51.00 plus postage, easy to do and well worth looking if your taps are spluttering, our pump was leaking at the join in the pump, it was ONLY evident when the pump stopped as it was up to pressure, the pump stopped, water oozed out drop by drop and air presumably entered to replace the water.....

DDave


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