# Auto changeover relay for inverter



## Techno100

First picture is a selection of relays from RS components. The one on the right is my choice as it is 10 amp rated through the normally closed contact set which will be used for the inverter when off hook up.
The normally open contact set is 30 amp rated and will be used to power a skt/skts as normal when on hook up








I've mounted the relay in a "really useful box" and fitted a 25mm thread stuffing gland big enough to grip 3x1.5mm flexes all together















Power IN flex lugged up to go on the N/O contacts and the 230volt relay coil








Power out connected to the common pair of terminals and inverter feed connected to the N/C terminals






























All that remains is to customise the flexes to required lengths 
fit a 13 amp plug top to the inverter feed but with a 10amp fuse!!!
Fit two pairs of 10 amp rated connectors being careful to fit the female halves to the ends that will be live i.e. the flex from the 10 amp breaker that you are going to cut that normally feeds the skt and the power out lead from the changeover.
The male ends go on the feed in to the relay box and the other part of the flex cut earlier that continues on to the socket.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230-VOLT-...l_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item4d0458b589#
Now I just need an inverter, probably a 1.8K for my needs but I'll see what's on special.

I've already been using this setup with the other relay in the first picture but with a 350watt pure sine inverter for the entertainment and gizmo charging area "lounge"

The modus operandus is
The socket radial circuit is now routed through the normally open contacts of the relay, as soon as the hook up is made this makes those contacts close to feed the socket as normal.
Without hook up you just switch the inverter on and the socket is now fed through the normally closed contacts of the relay


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## csmcqueen

If you're running on the invertor, do you have a separate relay attached the ehu side to stop the charger the cutting in as that would be pointless? Or am I missing something ( that wouldn't be the first time mind you :lol: )


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## Techno100

Yes I think you're missing a lot :lol:
This is only inserted into 1 radial circuit to feed a socket or two.
Refer to the modus operandus


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## csmcqueen

Sorry still suffering from concussion from hitting myself in the face with a frying pan :lol: (don't ask) so the relay fits between charger output and sockets swapping the feed from ehu/ charger side to inverter. Simple really, but would be a pig to do in the autoquest as I would have to add another junction box as all socket feeds come out the fuse/charger box individually. 

Hmmm great idea, but might have to do mine a little differently :wink:


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## Techno100

Nothing to do with the charger which is a DC output. charges your battery and feeds your 12 volt equipment.
This goes between a circuit breaker on your 230volt distribution unit and the socket or sockets that it supplies


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## csmcqueen

If I put a relay on the feed from the ehu socket on the van to the fuse box to switch to/from an inverter then the 230v from inverter is going to try and power the charger to charge up the lb, screwing my whole circuit up, if I use a 2nd relay to allow feed to charger only when on ehu the I can in theory power all my sockets (not that I could use them all but it would give me more choice) Sorry never made that clear.


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## Techno100

Seems pointless as you are limited by your battery capacity.
My unit is to occasionally power my microwave or wifeys hairdrier for a few minutes at a time. So would only turn the inverter on for the task then turn it off.


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## Techno100

80p Asda container upgrade 









Ready to go


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## Addie

So where / how would this connect into your vans 240v system so that it just powers the sockets - near the RCD breaker or elsewhere? My batteries are located nowhere near my RCD or my control box!

If you don't want Pure SINE and 2000w this looks like a good deal with the warranty if its supported: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350581287409

I have a brand new one of these, which given what they are selling for on eBay I might sell and buy the above!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261087855874


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## Techno100

Simply cut a flex (and fit the plugs pictured)somewhere between the circuit breaker and the 1st or only socket on that circuit.
The female 3 pin plug goes on the flex FROM the circuit breaker and the male goes on the other cut end that went to the socket.
To remove the changeover unit simply plug the flexes back together.
The flex to my kitchen skts comes up through the floor near my batteries

Pretty sure I'll be using this and at over £60 cheaper than a well know shop :lol:

http://www.fonejunkie.com/Sterling-Power-Pro-Power-Q-12v-1800w-Inverter-PN-I121800-p-17535.html


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## Techno100

As Adam has taken an interest I've elaborated.

Side locker floor removed and there is the flex from the mains board coming up through the floor and on its way to the nearside kitchen sockets








I managed to obtain spare length by re routing the converters choice of cable run.
Fit the 10amp through connector Female to mains side male to socket side








unit plugged in between the open ends








No holes to drill in my case, feed from inverter flex passed through gap into vicinity of batteries.








Plugged into my 350watt inverter just to test








Microwave lights on 








Kitchen sockets live








When my new inverter arrives it has 2 sockets so the 350watt could be redundant.


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## Techno100

My new 1800 watt Sterling fitted and working in excellent fashion and now powers both sides of the van. Microwave works a treat on full power. Pulls the batteries down to 11.9 under load but after a four minute test on 2xuncle bens they quickly recovered to 12.4 and within 30 minutes back up to float charge. A night time test will have to wait.


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## Techno100

From China £6.99 inline fuse & holder


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## crumblyned

Good post, Very helpfull, Thanks. Ned


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## vicdicdoc

I openly admit I know 'nuffin about stuff like this but was wondering about heat build-up inside the plastic containers . . . I would hate to read of anything melting or worse. 
:?


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## Techno100

There is no heat its a solid state sealed relay. Putting twice its rated current through it may see a rise :lol:
Even then it is microwave and dishwasher safe ! Idont spend 80pence lightly :wink:

Seriously there is no detectable heat as it is working within its design specification


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## SilverFox13

Four years ago I used an excellent article posted by Clive Mott Gotobed (http://www.motts.org/INVERTER.htm) to make an auto changeover ... but this appears to be much simpler.

That said Clives also switches the inverter on and off.

Thought it was mentioning on this thread.

Mal


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## Techno100

Thank you Mal 
Yes I've been down Clive's route a long time ago now but this is simpler cheaper AND silent
http://www.motts.org/INVERTER.htm

Old thread http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-903660.html#903660


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## LaMB

Techno100 said:


> 80p Asda container upgrade
> 
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> 
> Ready to go


I'm ok with the source of the container - but where is the cheapest place to get the relay and connectors from please?

Martin


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## listerdiesel

Finder 66.82.8.230.0000 is £10.79 plus carriage and VAT from RS or Farnell. That is the white relay on the right in Andy's original post.

You probably won't be able to buy from them without an account.

Look for that part on Google and see who else carries it.

If you get stuck, post back here and either Andy or I can help, we have an RS and Farnell account as (probably) does Andy.

Peter


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## Techno100

Anyone can open an account at RS, its just a case of registering.
It is £12.95 over the counter stock number is printed on the bag in the first picture at start of topic 492 7202
Crimps try maplins for ease
use a proper ratchet crimper!

They also sell large stuffing glands for the 3 flexes but I sourced mine from work free

The 10 amp connectors are £2.50 at ASDA


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## LaMB

Yeah, can buy direct from Farnells - minimum order of £20 though, so now I'm having to search for other things I want.

In a former life, I had accounts with both RS and Farnells - probably got old catalogs somewhere!

Martin


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## Pudsey_Bear

listerdiesel said:


> Finder 66.82.8.230.0000 is £10.79 plus carriage and VAT from RS or Farnell. That is the white relay on the right in Andy's original post.
> 
> You probably won't be able to buy from them without an account.
> 
> Look for that part on Google and see who else carries it.
> 
> If you get stuck, post back here and either Andy or I can help, we have an RS and Farnell account as (probably) does Andy.
> 
> Peter


A little more Farnell info I didn't see Andy post as it's on the next page :roll:

I just rang Farnell as they're just down the road from us, and you can actually buy without a trade account, it need to be a minimum of £10 debit/credit card at the trade counter, or online/phone £20 this is ex VAT.

If you need any advice do it online as they don't do private by phone, and use account number 799995 this is a general number to open up the link to the tech side, I was told all this, so it should be OK to order or enquire, 01132790101 (switchboard) works if you don't like to use the 08 numbers from your mobile phone.

I just need to figure out the instructions now, as I was intending to do it with a manual switch, but this saves having to find a suitable mounting spot for a quite ugly switch, and is a better way of doing the same job.


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## Techno100

I'm sad to report that the plastic beaker has increased in price to £1.25  :lol:


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## Pudsey_Bear

Techno100 said:


> I'm sad to report that the plastic beaker has increased in price to £1.25  :lol:


Ha already got one in the garage, two actually I think :lol: :lol:

Something just came up which might not be an issue for you with a 1800w inverter but might be a problem on a smaller 600w inverter like moi.

OK you're on site on EHU, and the kettle is on, the auto changeover switch cuts in and suddenly has to power the kettle, so can this happen, if so perhaps unless you have a big inverter it's not a good idea, it won't affect me as we don't do sites, or electric kettles, but it cropped up so thought I should ask.


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## VanFlair

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Techno100 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sad to report that the plastic beaker has increased in price to £1.25  :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Ha already got one in the garage, two actually I think :lol: :lol:
> 
> Something just came up which might not be an issue for you with a 1800w inverter but might be a problem on a smaller 600w inverter like moi.
> 
> OK you're on site on EHU, and the kettle is on, the auto changeover switch cuts in and suddenly has to power the kettle, so can this happen, if so perhaps unless you have a big inverter it's not a good idea, it won't affect me as we don't do sites, or electric kettles, but it cropped up so thought I should ask.
Click to expand...

Hi Kev

If you were on site and plugged in you would not have the inverter switched on so should not be a problem, our inverter shuts down if I accidentally leave the coffee machine on while the microwave is running.

Martin


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## VanFlair

Techno100 said:


> My new 1800 watt Sterling fitted and working in excellent fashion and now powers both sides of the van. Microwave works a treat on full power. Pulls the batteries down to 11.9 under load but after a four minute test on 2xuncle bens they quickly recovered to 12.4 and within 30 minutes back up to float charge. A night time test will have to wait.


Hi Andy

What battery ah do you have running the inverter, just interested when you say it drops to 11.9volts as our 160ah gel run at about 12.4 on the inverter running microwave on full, when I tried the 220ah Elecsols I had spare and only year old they dropped to well under 12volts and the inverter alarm was going mad (there was big cable run then as well).

I fitted a pure sine inverter in place of the old modified one as the coffee machine will not run on modified and I did not feel that the microwave was very efficient either, runs great now.

Martin


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## Techno100

Yes as Martin says :thumbup:
My own inverter has a remote control switch in the lounge, it's not left on unnecessarily. Your small inverter is fine as there is no danger of overloading the 10amp rated contacts in the relay. The mains fed contacts are 30 amp rated. If you want to be completely secure I would fit an inline RCD on your inverter output. I havn't bothered because I'm happy with my install and my hab isn't a steel box :wink:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/In-Line-Cir...TF8&qid=1368462680&sr=8-3&keywords=inline+rcd


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## Techno100

VanFlair said:


> Techno100 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My new 1800 watt Sterling fitted and working in excellent fashion and now powers both sides of the van. Microwave works a treat on full power. Pulls the batteries down to 11.9 under load but after a four minute test on 2xuncle bens they quickly recovered to 12.4 and within 30 minutes back up to float charge. A night time test will have to wait.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Hi Andy
> 
> What battery ah do you have running the inverter, just interested when you say it drops to 11.9volts as our 160ah gel run at about 12.4 on the inverter running microwave on full, when I tried the 220ah Elecsols I had spare and only year old they dropped to well under 12volts and the inverter alarm was going mad (there was big cable run then as well).
> 
> I fitted a pure sine inverter in place of the old modified one as the coffee machine will not run on modified and I did not feel that the microwave was very efficient either, runs great now.
> 
> Martin
Click to expand...

Hi Martin, that install was on my previous van. On my new one I have 375ah of sealed batteries dedicated to the inverter. With a 2kw hair drier running while it's sunny my battery voltage only drops to 12.3 and supported by the 15 to 20 amps from the 300watt solars it will run for a very long time. At some time I'll do a duration test and see how long it takes to drop to about 11 volts under load.
I no longer have a microwave but that only pulled 1100watts max and I only had 220ah.
I have a pair of Elecsols up front for general use but I also have a battery bank selector switch so while in storage I connect banks 1&2 together and the solars keep them all happy


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## Pudsey_Bear

VanFlair said:


> Kev_n_Liz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Techno100 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sad to report that the plastic beaker has increased in price to £1.25  :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Ha already got one in the garage, two actually I think :lol: :lol:
> 
> Something just came up which might not be an issue for you with a 1800w inverter but might be a problem on a smaller 600w inverter like moi.
> 
> OK you're on site on EHU, and the kettle is on, the auto changeover switch cuts in and suddenly has to power the kettle, so can this happen, if so perhaps unless you have a big inverter it's not a good idea, it won't affect me as we don't do sites, or electric kettles, but it cropped up so thought I should ask.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi Kev
> 
> If you were on site and plugged in you would not have the inverter switched on so should not be a problem, our inverter shuts down if I accidentally leave the coffee machine on while the microwave is running.
> 
> Martin
Click to expand...

Maybe I have it wrong :roll: I thought Andys setup was if there was no EHU it went to the inverter automatically if it was switched on at the inverter, but he's a proper sparky so might have a few more gizmos elsewhere to sort any problems out, but you're probably right as he's been on twice since I posted that and a PM from him too, so he would have mentioned it if it was a real problem.

As said not a problem for me but I'd not want to sell the van to someone who uses a kettle etc and it became on, most likely I'm worrying about nothing due to knowing sod all about it


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## Techno100

Yes the relay contacts for the inverter are normally closed BUT why would you turn the inverter on unless you were going to use it? The inverter will draw power(small as it may be) from the battery if left on even without putting a load on it.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Techno100 said:


> Yes the relay contacts for the inverter are normally closed BUT why would you turn the inverter on unless you were going to use it? The inverter will draw power(small as it may be) from the battery if left on even without putting a load on it.


I wouldn't intentionally turn it on, but I'm not the only one in the van and "some people" don't get the distinction between inverters and EHU, so might turn it on without my knowledge.


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## Techno100

Then like Martin said it will cut out if it is overloaded.


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## VanFlair

Hi Andy

Thanks for clearing that up, I thought from watching previous posts that you had a big chunk of battery power and I was surprised that your volts were dropping so low on the microwave draw. 

I am amazed how well my two 80ah Exide gels cope with the inverter. We run a couple of minutes in the morning for a Nespresso coffee and then about 4 minutes microwave on full power for porridge, possibly hair dryer and then later on microwave and coffee machine again for 2 latte coffees.

Of course it depends on the sunshine but even in overcast conditions the batteries are full again by lunch at the latest.

Money well spent in my book.

P.S your install looks very tidy.

Martin


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## Techno100

Wife is well trained now and just takes it all for granted. I think I'm going to take my Nescafe Dolce Gusto with us to France


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## pippin

I have one or two worries about the original post and subsequent updates.

In a domestic or industrial set-up where a generator (ie inverter) cuts in automatically if the mains (ie EHU) fails there are very special contactors (relays) that have wide gaps between the contacts and are designed very definitely to "break before make".

The sort of relays you are using may not have sufficient contact gap to ensure total isolation in fault situations.

It is certainly not unknown for contacts to weld together due to sparking under heavy load.

An inductive load like a microwave oven or a resistive load like a kettle can cause a lot of bother if the switchover occurs with the load(s) connected.

I know you say that the inverter will not be switched on while you are on EHU - but can you guarantee that in a fail-safe way? 
No!

So, you are on EHU happily running the M/W and/or kettle and/or hairdrier or whatever.

The mains EHU fails and the relay defaults to inverter.

All of a sudden there is one heck of a make and break of the contacts as they change-over.

If the mains EHU loss is for just a few seconds (or milliseconds) then you get twice the problem as they remake to EHU.

Sparking and pitting of the contacts will occur, increasing the contact resistance.

The result is that the contacts will get warm under normal working conditions.

It is a vicious circle that results in the contacts getting so hot they burn the relay housing. (the black or white things in the picture)

That relay housing will be self-extinguishing as soon as power is removed but are you sure your Tesco 80p container is fire-resistant and self-extinguishing?
No!

Do you know what might happen if (EHU) 240V AC is applied to the 240V AC inverter output socket?
Even if the inverter is switched off?
I don't either but I certainly wouldn't want to chance it!
Possible fire again.

How do I know all this?

I have seen a lot of burnt out contactors in all sorts of control panels.

I have often wondered why a relay that looks perfectly adequate should fail.

Then I sit down and think about things and basically it is down to the original designer not thinking about fault conditions or about the so-called "good for 10,000 switchings", which might be true of perfect conditions.

If I have upset anyone, then I apologise.

If you genuinely know better, then again I apologise.

If I have saved a possible disaster then I do not apologise!


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## Jean-Luc

This is how my change over works, it's fool proof and has no electronics to go wrong and it can't change over at the wrong time.

In my Rapido the mains are handled by three MCB's, one for the heating, one for the fridge/charger etc. and one for the sockets ring.

All three MCB's are rated at 10 amps. So the total load which can be imposed on one or all the sockets at any one time is 10 amps or at most a load which is within the limits of a regular three pin square plug with a 13 amp fuse.

With this in mind, I ran a new socket from the MCB while at the same time removing the cable running to the existing sockets.

Next, I fitted a 13 amp plug to the cable to the existing sockets which I had removed from the MCB (it needed to be extended a little)

The result:
When on EHU I put the plug in the 'new' socket wired from the MBC - sockets powered from EHU
When off EHU I put the plug in the inverter - sockets powered from inverter.

Total cost - one 13 amp plug + one 13 amp socket.


Voilà!


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## Techno100

Fair comments I'll let you know when it fails but I bought my Microwave & Dishwasher proof beaker from ASDA :wink:

The relay operating range is from -20 to +70 degrees C
The operating currents of the contacts are 30/10 N/O N/C continuous
50/20 maximum. It is designed for many thousands of switching operations but will eventually fail like anything will. The Circuit overcurrent protection and the hook up RCD should take care of faults.
A replacement relay is £10.79 plus VAT


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## Pudsey_Bear

I came across this yesterday, little PDF it might stop some problems for those first using an inverter.

Ignore the specification, but the advice is good.


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## listerdiesel

Re the operational life of the relay and contacts:

On AC, inductive load arcs are self quenching as the polarity of the supply reverses 50 times a second, and contact material is very good these days, I'd have no problem with Andy's setup. The relays are good quality and I can't forsee any issues.

It's easy to build in huge ratings and clearances, but in practice they are rarely needed, and as long as the circuits are fused, there should be no issues in the event of a relay contact failure.

We only have a tiddler inverter of 550W that came from Ian&Suzy on this forum, and it's wired in to the battery with its own on/off switch, if we need to use it, we just plug things into it in the rear of the trailer, it is really for charging laptops and phones rather than anything bigger.

We do have an 800W microwave, but that's really for EHU use, we haven't used it yet!

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear

I think I'm going to have to put this on the back burner for now, at least until funds recover, just had to fork out for the car insurance today, MOT next week, I still have to pay for the recovery and repairs to the van so can't justify extras like auto changeover switches right now, not to mention Andys expensive receptacle to house it in   and still a few relays etc to get, it's never ending this lark.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Hi Andy,

I will hopefully be fitting the smaller 1000w (2000 peak) Sterling Inverter & Remote next week.

I am wondering if it is necessary to ground it to the vehicle chassis with it being connected to the leisure batteries, that are not ran to ground anyway.

Also, having not yet received the Inverter, does it come fitted with an in-line fuse (if not could you recommend one and a rating, I was thinking 100a but would definitely appreciate your input)?

Also, would an inline RCD be any use in this system?

THANKS IN ADVANCE.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Ian_n_Suzy said:


> Hi Andy,
> 
> I will hopefully be fitting the smaller 1000w Sterling Inverter & Remote next week.
> 
> I am wondering if it is necessary to ground it to the vehicle chassis with it being connected to the leisure batteries, that are not ran to ground anyway.
> 
> Also, having not yet received the Inverter, does it come fitted with an in-line fuse (if not could you recommend one and a rating, I was thinking 100a but would definitely appreciate your input)?
> 
> Also, would an inline RCD be any use in this system?
> 
> THANKS IN ADVANCE.


The leisure batteries are grounded to the chassis, or should be, unless every single item of kit runs a cable back to them.

I fused my +v side of the inverter, although the supplied leads came with rings and crocodile clips so no provision for a fuse, it is internally fused too, the 3 pin plug will also have a fuse, make sure that isn't too high, 3 or possibly 5 amps will most likely be enough on 1000w inverter, mine also came with a dedicated earthing screw, but no cable.

Not sure about the RCD, not crossed my mind, seems sensible, but not seen any info or mention of it before.


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## peribro

I have the same inverter and I fitted a 200A fuse in an appropriate fuse holder. This is the one I fitted but you can probably get them elsewhere and possibly cheaper. From recollection this was the recommended fuse size - you have to bear in mind the peak capacity of the inverter. I did not ground the inverter to the chassis and don't recall it having been suggested anywhere. I believe I found some useful info on the Sterling website about fuses and installation etc.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

peribro said:


> I have the same inverter and I fitted a 200A fuse in an appropriate fuse holder. This is the one I fitted but you can probably get them elsewhere and possibly cheaper. From recollection this was the recommended fuse size - you have to bear in mind the peak capacity of the inverter. I did not ground the inverter to the chassis and don't recall it having been suggested anywhere. I believe I found some useful info on the Sterling website about fuses and installation etc.


Thanks for the replies.

That's a big ass fuse (I wasn't really thinking about the peak wattage). I'm now wondering if an in-line circuit breaker may be an option if I need to go to that size?

CHEERS


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## Techno100

The recommended fuse for that unit by Sterling is 200amps
It does not come with a fuse holder and if it's anything like my 1800watt one the supplied cable is too small to absorb the heat created by current flow through the fuse. I have retro fitted bigger cable to handle this better.
You can fit an inline RCD in the 230volt outgoing cable if you wish? I have not.
I have fitted this since the previous one started melting 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250782195665?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Peribro, just looking at getting the fuse sorted, and I'm trying to find out what gauge the wire is for the holder. Can you remember what grade it is on the Sterling 1000?

Thanks in advance.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Techno100 said:


> The recommended fuse for that unit by Sterling is 200amps
> It does not come with a fuse holder and if it's anything like my 1800watt one the supplied cable is too small to absorb the heat created by current flow through the fuse. I have retro fitted bigger cable to handle this better.
> You can fit an inline RCD in the 230volt outgoing cable if you wish? I have not.
> I have fitted this since the previous one started melting
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250782195665?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648


Hi Andy,

I had read up about your woes with the cable gauge.

I would normally get an holder from abroad to save money. But on this occasion I am against the clock and really need to get this all boxed off next week. So I am currently looking for a "reasonably" priced holder that I can get relatively quickly.

CHEERS


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## Techno100

I asked Charles repeatedly what cable size was supposed to be fitted and he failed to tell me.


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## Techno100

Any car audio shop will have what you want or you could try outdoorbits but it'll be near £40 for holder fuse & postage


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Andy,

I am just about to order one now to get in the post today. I can have a choice of fuse and I am thinking 150a should be more than suffice. 

What do you think yourself?

CHEERS


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## Techno100

I would go with the recommended 200 as 150 will be an even worse bottle neck for the current.

The wire mine came with was 4AWG or 21mm I expect yours will be smaller.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Techno100 said:


> I would go with the recommended 200 as 150 will be an even worse bottle neck for the current.


I was thinking more about it protecting the cabling though with the gauge on yours being a bit dubious. But I will go with the 200.

THANKS


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## peribro

As Techno100 has said, Sterling recommends a 200amp fuse. I bought the same fuse holder that comes up at the bottom of the Amazon link. I simply used the cable that came already fitted to the inverter and I have not seen any evidence of overheating despite using it to power a hairdryer and microwave (not together!) at about 700W each. However since Techno100's experience I am going to monitor it more closely.


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## Techno100

Hi Peter
We were using a 2kw hair drier and a kettle the same.
So effectively running at max plus. The inverter didn't complain of either overload or overheat but the metal either side of the fuse bridge got so hot that the plastic was melting.
Just feel the metal of your fuse bridge after 5 mins or so for an indication but 700 watts may not cause this issue.
Do you know what size cable is fitted to yours?


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## peribro

Hi Andy, I don't know the cable size but I will endeavour to see if I can see or measure it - probably be tomorrow now.


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## Techno100

It's printed on the insulation, the AWG number. Cheers


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## Techno100

I've been out to test mine today.
I never realised that wifey only uses the lowest heat setting on her hairdrier 8O so it is probably 1kw with the max being 2kw of the three options.(I had previously been running it at Max to try it out)
I ran it for well over 20 mins with no shift in voltage of 12.3 under this load.
The solars were contributing 14 amps constantly throughout this period.
Absolutely no noticeable increase in temperature at the fuse bridge at this output.
After disconnect, the batteries rapidly climbed to 13.4volts (5mins)
The solar ouput is with Sun up high mid day and does not produce the best output due to the direct angle and the heat on the glass.
The best advice I can give for terminating your cable into this type of fuse holder is to crimp a solid tube lug onto the bare end and then saw off all but the crimped tube. This makes a much better connection under the grub screw.


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## Techno100

BTW I should say that as this thread is actually about my auto changeover relay :lol: I have had no issues with this at all! :thumbup:


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## Techno100

Just another point to note.
The fuse holder pictured has to be customised with a drill and a round file.
If using big cable? the grub screws will be left protruding, if you study my pictures carefully you'll see I have made an oval slot for each so the cover will go on and also a slot at the edge to bring out the negative connection for the volt meter.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Hi Andy,

I have just received the Sterling 1000w, the cables are 6AWG.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

I always like to test things before I fit them properly. So I have set this up and tried it with a couple of devices that would push its power limits (Hair Dryer, Toastie Maker & Toaster). All ran without issue, I then went to move the unit and got a bloody electric shock off it. It wasn't a belt, but was a bit more than just a tingle.

What did I do, I thought that's strange, and touched it again (just to check) and yes it did give me another bloody shock.

This one is definitely going back. I don't want to test the replacement using myself, what is the best way to check for fault?

CHEERS


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## Techno100

Inform Charles directly at [email protected] he does reply quite quickly.
There should be no continuity between live parts and the casing so clearly something is not right within.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Techno100 said:


> Inform Charles directly at [email protected] he does reply quite quickly.
> There should be no continuity between live parts and the casing so clearly something is not right within.


I'm getting it changed tomorrow for another unit, so hopefully that will be that. I am a bit disappointed re the wiring length on the remote though, all the bumf I can find shows it to be 10m, but this only has 6m (says 6m on the box but I didn't know that when I bought it online). It is making my fitting choice harder.

CHEERS


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## Techno100

Sterling website says all three models are supplied with 10 metres.
Dont accept it
http://www.sterling-power.com/products-230vi-quasi.htm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sterling-...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item2a26a8e11b

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STERLING-...ervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item3383623de9


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## Ian_n_Suzy

Techno100 said:


> Sterling website says all three models are supplied with 10 metres.
> Dont accept it
> http://www.sterling-power.com/products-230vi-quasi.htm
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sterling-...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item2a26a8e11b


I know m8, I had already viewed them when this one turned up with 6m. I looked on the official flier and that has a 10m lead in the advertising.

Will have to see what happens when I change it tomorrow.


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## Techno100

Makes me wonder if it's genuine? especially as it is in a dangerous condition


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## Ian_n_Suzy

It is definitely genuine, bought from one of their major sellers with numerous outlets.

There are 6m ones out there apparently. I just didn't realise this when I bought it.

I'll get it sorted hopefully.


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## peribro

Ian_n_Suzy said:


> It is definitely genuine, bought from one of their major sellers with numerous outlets.
> 
> There are 6m ones out there apparently. I just didn't realise this when I bought it.
> 
> I'll get it sorted hopefully.


The Sterling Quasi Sine Wave 1000W Continuous Inverter has a 6m cable for the remote whereas the 1000W Pro Power Q has a 10m cable. If you need the extra length then your choices are to either get the Pro Power Q or extend the cable, which I think would be relatively straightforward.


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## Ian_n_Suzy

peribro said:


> Ian_n_Suzy said:
> 
> 
> 
> It is definitely genuine, bought from one of their major sellers with numerous outlets.
> 
> There are 6m ones out there apparently. I just didn't realise this when I bought it.
> 
> I'll get it sorted hopefully.
> 
> 
> 
> The Sterling Quasi Sine Wave 1000W Continuous Inverter has a 6m cable for the remote whereas the 1000W Pro Power Q has a 10m cable. If you need the extra length then your choices are to either get the Pro Power Q or extend the cable, which I think would be relatively straightforward.
Click to expand...

Hi,

It is the 1000w Pro Power Q that I have.


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## Techno100

Money to burn?
I just bought this in preference
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310347720606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

AND I'm gutted cos I found it for CONSIDERABLY less  :lol: :twisted: 
Knob
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Cover/dp/B000K2K7TW

EDIT mind that's without fuses so maybe not as devastating to my shopping cred :lol:


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## Techno100

I'm fitting my relay for a customer for the first time soon (copied by others with their own success).
A very prestigious van to have 3 solars (240watt) 1800 watt Sterling giving power to one radial within the living area.
A most beautiful roof to Sika to  
Pictures with permission at a later date.


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## Techno100

Job done and all doing what it should. Easy to remove and just plug the original radial circuit to the kitchen area socket back together if the need might arise or to transfer to another vehicle


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