# Truma S300 heater problem



## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

Help I am having problems with my heater Truma S300 with electric ignition.
I am lighting the heater ok and it is running up to temperature Ok but the electronic ignition is continuing to click to light the fire as if it has just been turned on. Even after being on for over 20 minutes it is still clicking.
I have checked the battery
I have checked the gas (new bottle)
I have checked the flue
All ok
I am concerned it will damage the ignition system
Help!


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## peejay (May 10, 2005)

Hi blue,

when you turn the heater on you normally push the numbered button down and turn to the required heat setting and then release the button when lit. It is when you press the button down into the housing that starts the electronic ignition so i would assume that the button is not reverting to its correct position after ignition, hence the clicking noise (its still trying to light the fire even though its actually lit).

Have a look behind the front cover, to do this, pull the cover gently at the top and it will come away from its housing. Feel behind the cover and you will find 2 retaining clips that need to be lifted before the cover can be removed all the way. Once removed you will notice that the numbered button is connected to a long rod and this goes down to the mechanisms. I would check to see if this part is operating properly, its possible it may have become stuck in the down postion causing the ignition to click continuosly.

let us know how you get on.

pete.


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## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

Hi Peejay,

Yes this is exactly how it works but the switch is returning up to its highest position and the clicking only stops when the heater switch is returned to the off position or the battery removed.

I have cleaned around the switch and lubricated with a little silicone spray and operated it with the cover off but no luck.

It seems as if the ignition control is below the switch housing and is not releasing when the switch comes up?

I notice the switch is located on 3 small tags that hold it in position but not sure if I should remove it as it also controls the gas flow?


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## 89213 (May 16, 2005)

*Truma Heater*

I've had one of these apart, and replaced the valve it is simple and cheap. The Piezo Electric ignition is switched off by a heat sensitive/thermocouple valve when the heat reaches whatever temp it's set to, so that's probably what has gone. Recommend replacing the complete valve assembly as it's an easy job, disconnect the gas pipe, undo the 4 screws on base, and lift whole fire out from there it's easy to see what's what. There are two push connectors on the back of the spark generator, check that they are secure before dismantling; the generator is the little box with the LED that flashes during the ignition cycle.
John


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## peejay (May 10, 2005)

Sorry blue,

Thats all i can suggest and i,ve completely exhausted my technical knowledge of gas heaters! Personally speaking, i wouldn't go any further by removing/tampering with things unless you REALLY know what you're doing with gas appliances. Better to let a specialist check it maybe?

pete.


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

Hi

Sounds like Giok has the right answer to me! But now another question on the same theme:

I have a Truma S300K heater fitted and next week will be off out for a few days. As I haven't done any winter trips before I thought I would read over the heater instructions---------?

What caught my eye was the section on using the heater when the vehicle is moving! Is this really possible? Has anyone tried it? Sems to me that it would not be the brightest of moves - but I might be wrong. Comments please.

Gaspode


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## 89213 (May 16, 2005)

Never tried it but having been into the workings, I can see that it should work OK as the jets a well enclosed, and out of the draught that moving will cause. Anyway the previously mentioned thermocouple will close the valve if the flame blows out, so I for one wouldn't be worried about trying it.

John :reindeer:


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## arcsystems (May 1, 2005)

Truma 3002 ?, The flame recognition is electronic and does not rely on temperature and seeing as the spark electrode does both jobs it is unlikely this ends at fault. The ignition box with the batteries does the detecting and switches the spark off as soon as the flame lights..it is this thats at fault or a connection to it. It depends on the age of yours but the brown wire, I think it is, should be earthed by a metal clip to the base of the fire, mostly just at the side of the gas valve but sometimes under the temperature sensor at the front. If it's not earthed correctly the spark will not stop but it does change sound which will give you a clue as the spark tends to jump all over the place...you might even get a 'belt' off of it as well!. Later models are slightly different and do not require the earth point. I have known the odd electrode to be at fault or rather the lead to it shorting somewhere in it's length. Other than this the electronics are at fault and to be right it's a new unit I am afraid. A trick though is to flick the battery carrier out a little from the unit after it has lit...you can just get it from under the fire front with one finger and push it back again for lighting next time after switching off...saves £54!!


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## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

HI arcsystems

Yes you are exactly right once the unit has ignited the sound changes.

The unit is 3 years old and I will take it apart again and check the earth thanks for the tip on removing the battery.

I will let you know how i get on.


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## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

OK

Had the unit apart but no earth wire?

Out of the back of the ignition box is one single copper wire with a clear plastic sheathing this comes out of the middle with a terminal marked with an electrical Z symbol this disappears underneath the main unit.

There is then a brown and black wire on a grey clip in block these are both wound together and both go into the pilot valve. When you un plug these out of the ignition box the clicking stops.

Before I splash out £54.00 if i take the ignition box into a truma dealer can they test it and confirm the fault? or is there any further test I can do to confirm this? :?


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## 93295 (May 1, 2005)

> What caught my eye was the section on using the heater when the vehicle is moving! Is this really possible? Has anyone tried it? Sems to me that it would not be the brightest of moves - but I might be wrong. Comments please.


I have a less sophisticated Trumatic heater.....but the basic safety system is the same.

I have no worries about using it on the move, if the flame is extinguished, the FFD will shut off the gas.....though this has never happened to me. I suppose it has been in the van for about 6 years now, and I often drive around with it on.

Before anybody explodes.......I am a gas fitter, albeit retired, and would not reccomend this except in the case of a 'room sealed' appliance with an FFD.

jondeau.


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## arcsystems (May 1, 2005)

It is one of the two wires from the ignition unit to the gas valve that should be earthed...these two wires form an earth loop to a micro-switch in the gas valve and back to the igniter. The black side of the loop connects the battery negative in the igniter to one side of the switch and the brown wire from the other side of the switch passes under a tiny metal clip with a screw in the centre which earths that side off the loop to the base plate before returning to the igniter and completes the circuit when the gas valve is turned on. What could happen is the brown wire has been pulled and an insulated part of it is now under the clip..try pushing or pulling it a little where it passes under the clip...it should not move if the clip is tight but they do sometimes work loose, because of this it could also be missing all together??. I have also known the wire inside the insulation to break but the wire still looks intact.


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## arcsystems (May 1, 2005)

Don't quote me on this but in Germany the Trauma S3002 and S3002P are only recommended for caravans, the S3002K would then be the only one for use in a motorhome?...the difference being could this be the model designed for use on the move??...don't ask me, ask Trauma Technical 01283 528201


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## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

checked the brown and black wires through all the clips from the control box to the valve at no point does either wire earth, most of the clips are plastic?

Have also put a wire from the brown out of the back of the control box to earth no change?

looks like putting a control box on the list for santa :lol:


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## arcsystems (May 1, 2005)

Most of the clips are plastic?, what are the others..the brown wire passes under a metal clip which just appears to be holding it down...it don't look like an earth point but the black wire goes over the top.
Now in theory what you have done regarding earthing at the back of the ignitor should work? but we are talking 1400 volts!!! here and I don't know why they do it with the clip either...but that works. 
One last thing you could try...bare a liitle insulation on the brown wire close to the gas valve and hold it to earth with a screwdriver while the fire is lit...


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## 89071 (May 13, 2005)

Hi

Re checked all the wires and checked under the steel clips to see if any of the wires were bare. No all fully insulated from the ignition box straight to the safety pilot valve.

Re tried earthing the brown wire to the base no change still sparking.

Thought I would give Truma technical department a ring just to check and found them very helpful. I explained the symptoms and asked about the earth. They no longer earth the unit along the wire it is earthed inside the pilot valve. They explained how to get the top off the valve and check this. So I did however ran into a little difficulty as during the test the centre spindle came off!!! Boy was this hard to re position and get back on but after 20 minutes I sorted it out.

However after all the tests it just confirmed the fault is in the ignition box looks like flicking the battery out after the fire is on unless Santa brings one.

Thanks for all your help and advice hope this will help others in the future.

Merry Christmas Blue :lol: 

Ps to all of you considering using your fire on the move don’t !! If you were involved in an accident and a gas pipe is broken you can imagine the consequences.  

:lol:  :lol:


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## Anonymous (Nov 10, 2000)

blue
I am not familiar with the heater concerned, but I have been following the thread , why not put a tempory switch between the battery and the wire feeding the igniter and just lay it on the floor below the front panel? it's got to be easies to reach than the battery? ( untill a repacement part is obtained)

KenS.


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## 108054 (Nov 3, 2007)

*Trumatic S 3002 - ignition lead broken*

I found myself this weekend at a cold campsite with my heating strangely not firing up. It is a barely used Trumatic S3002. I could hear the clicking of the ignition spark when I depress the dial to get it started and it remained clicking when I let go, but would not fire up. I did the usual checks, waited 2 mins and retried etc, then took the cover off and very gently tugged the ignition cable (with clear coating) only to discover that it had become severed or disconnected. The sparking was the end of the wire sparking with the surrounding metal, but not near the gas outlet.

It is just over 2 years old but has barely been used (maybe 30hours total), no problem the week before last.

Late at night in a cold van I was not brave enough to start taking things apart any further, to see where the cable should be connected, or how it might have become severed. Should I take it to a Truma service center or is there a cost effective fix? Any guidance much appreciated.

I live just outside NW London and there appears to be few Truma service centers in the area. Any recommendations?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards

Colin


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## sergeant (Jun 7, 2006)

Hi Colincamp, Marquis at Bagshot are near you, Steve


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