# Cracked Shower Tray



## BBT (Oct 29, 2009)

I have a Fiat Ducato Rollerteam Pegaso 141 2001 model and have a few cracks in my shower tray. There are two plugs in this tray and the cracks have started around these. I have contacted my local dealer for a price to replace the tray but as it makes up the complete floor of the bathroom it is very expensive at £560! Does anyone have any suggestions on possibly filling these cracks (and the best thing to use) or getting a remould made please?


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## Rainbow-Chasers (Sep 2, 2008)

Remove the tray, working on the underside, cover the cracks with fibreglass resin using the matting sheets, at least three or four layers, wait until dry and then seal over as an extra precaution.

Pick up a gel coat filler and spread a thin layer top side to cover where the crack has been. It will be noticeable, but white!


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I've seen a few references to having them made up in Stainless steel.

Kev.


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## BBT (Oct 29, 2009)

Thank you so much for that! My husband is quite handy so will get him to give that a go  

Stainless steel? Not sure how that would blend in with everything else being white but it's certainly worth looking into. I'm open to any suggestions!


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

BBT, quite a common problem. Several posts on here dealing with it. 
I have had this happen twice and have done a temporary repair with Sikaflex. Both times I replaced my shower trays but I am sure that after removing the tray I could have done permanent repairs to the damaged ones. The fault seems to be caused by lack of support underneath and the tray flexing as you move around when using the shower, so I put support below mine. Usually the cracks appear around the drain holes or the door runner channel. A word of caution, some of the cracks can be very small and difficult to find. I would do the repair then flood the tray and leave it overnight to check for leeks. 

For more info and some photos I suggest you subscribe and then you can search for the threads I mentioned, Alan.


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*Tray*



erneboy said:


> BBT, quite a common problem. Several posts on here dealing with it.
> I have had this happen twice and have done a temporary repair with Sikaflex. Both times I replaced my shower trays but I am sure that after removing the tray I could have done permanent repairs to the damaged ones. The fault seems to be caused by lack of support underneath and the tray flexing as you move around when using the shower, so I put support below mine. Usually the cracks appear around the drain holes or the door runner channel. A word of caution, some of the cracks can be very small and difficult to find. I would do the repair then flood the tray and leave it overnight to check for leeks.
> 
> For more info and some photos I suggest you subscribe and then you can search for the threads I mentioned, Alan.


With regards to the repairs to your shower Erne. You sent me some pictures and we have the same weak spots.

Do you think that if the base was covered with foam (the expanding type) either before of after re-fitting, this would strengthen the structure?.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

With regard to stainless steel not matching the decor you could get it powder coated almost any colour, but make sure it is either epoxy/poly or epoxy, but not polyurethane only, not a big issue, but poly in all colours tends to go chalky in sunlight, yes I realise it is indoors, but I assume there is a window and sunlight can affect it that way even if not direct, (I used to be in the powder coating business) powder coating is very malleable so the tray bending is not an issue, and is very hard wearing, although i would stay away from white as it can be surface scratched, and of course white shows scratches worst of all, personally I'd get it made from brushed stainless, to give a grippier surface and just get a few stainless doodahs to make it look more part of the shower room.

Kev


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Teemyob, any support will probably help. Yours is a Frankia, as is mine so they may have been fitted in a similar way. In our case a lot of the floor under the tray had been cut away probably for ease of fitting, we replaced the missing bits with extra support. If yours is the same as ours was you could end up spraying foam in till you fill the void all around the tanks and aircon unit, I would like to see first to avoid that. That foam is right bugger to get out when it gets into the wrong places.

It is virtually impossible to get the tray out in one bit, Alan.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Could you not use some form of shuttering to stop any foam going where it isn't wanted?

Kev.


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Teemyob, has yours actually cracked or are you just seeing flexing. If cracked it will have to come out to do a proper job. If only flexing it may be possible to drop the outlet pipes and push some support in or fill with foam. Try to reach the out let pipes through your tank hatch, it can be done but I could not do it due to having big arms and hands, a thin bloke did it with great difficulty. Undoing them is easy, putting them back together, well. Alan.


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Ken n Liz, yes, if you could feel or see all of the area below the shower but you cannot do better than half without removing the base. The base is virtually impossible to remove in one bit because it is bonded in. To put a new base in you will need to remove all the internal trim and the door but no part of the shower cabinet and then jiggle and fiddle it in. Our job took a whole day, Alan.


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## owl129 (May 21, 2008)

*tray repair*

try these guys
http://www.plastic-shower-specialists.com/

paul


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Teemyob, none of our lockers gave access but layouts do vary slightly so maybe some of yours do. Sorry for so many answers, thinking as I go along, Alan.


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## oilslick (Oct 3, 2007)

*solvent weld*

I doubt if you will get epoxy or fibre glass resin to stick to it long term (I assume it is an ABS blow moulding?)

I would probably try using solvent weld that plumbers use on pipework.

When my Autotrail sink cracked (known problem) I used gripfix on the underside of the sink hole to support and strengthen the plug hole and then applied solvent weld from above about 3 times in half an hour.

When it evapourated away you could not see the repair and it has survived a while now.

Second thought would be to try and run some fibreglass resin under the tray to give it better support, and then use the solvent weld.

Its time these manufacturers started improving the life and quality of some of these parts.

Grant


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## Motorhomewales (Feb 24, 2009)

A very good repair can be done with 'sludge' its a liquid plastic that sets. Its used to join shower cubicles together. Very very strong, and I would guess available in exactly the same colour as most shower trays.


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