# Initial appraisal - used 584



## Geoff123 (Sep 4, 2006)

Initial appraisal of the newly acquired used Hymer 584

04 plate – 14,500 miles. 


The good points (technical aspects)

1. The Fiat 2.8 JTD common rail unit is a considerable improvement on the earlier 1995 - 564 in terms of noise and diesel clatter, but not as responsive and snappy as the 2.5 Tdi for which I have a remaining affection. 

2. I like the dash mounted gear lever, chunky, positive and smooth in operation.

3. I like the double side mounted rear seating arrangement, complete with the folding table which will comfortably seat six guests for dinner. I still haven’t figured out how the table collapses to a height suitable for a double rear berth. The underside lever releases the table for lowering, but stops short of a sufficient reduction in height to bring it down to bed level. The rubber foot press button at floor level, has no effect. I will need to check this out. 

4. The over-all ride with the ALKO chassis is a marked improvement, it corners relatively flatly with very little wallowing, side suction, roundabout front-end dip, or rear end pendulum swing.


The not so good points (technical aspects)

1. Engine bay accessibility is limited for DIY.

2. The lowered ground to body clearance and resultant improved stability achieved with the ALKO chassis, requires care when negotiating driveway dips and traffic slowing speed humps.

3. Acceleration is somewhat sluggish.


Habitation compromises vis-à-vis the 564

For the traditionalists, it’s a shame that in the interests of weight reduction, Hymer no longer build the top side storage units etc, in wood, rather than wood effect plastic.

The reduction in bathroom space in comparison with the 564 is inevitable, as is the size of the wardrobe. Squeezing quarts into pint pots is an art.

A picky point, the seating material is thin and of a poor quality in comparison to the 1995 - 564 spec. 



Costly to replace and repair: Items to watch out for, when buying a used 584.


1. Ensure the “Elektroblock” is fully functional, even a reconditioned unit can cost upwards of £300, a new one is excessively expensive. Damage is usually caused by voltage spikes on unregulated sites. I recommend that you consider fitting a voltage protection unit sited below the Elektroblock at a cost of around £75 fitted.

2. Carefully check the tyres, good branded tyres are expensive at around £600 per set, budget tyres do half the mileage and do nothing for driveability.

3. Check the electric step operation, damage is usually caused to the toothed ratchets by prematurely stepping on the bottom step before it’s in the fully down position.

4. Check the bodywork for unsightly dents, the aluminium side panels are prohibitively expensive to repair.

5. Check the rear external top panel for evidence of past damage, owners of older and less lengthy Hymers who have upgraded to the 584, quite often misjudge the length in the first few months of ownership. In the case of the end kitchen, look for evidence of disturbed and reinstated shelving above stove. Check for damp penetration at this point, the joint running across the roof at the rear may not have been properly sealed if repaired in haste ready for a sale.

6. Check for splits or damage to the rear bumpers, which come left and right-handed and outrageously expensive at £357 each, repeat, each! Courtesy of Hymer. How they justify that price for two bits of thin moulded plastic, I shall never know.

7. Finally, with the approval of the owner, check for clutch slip and judder, position the vehicle on steep hill, put the handbrake on and gently engage the throttle. It should stall almost immediately without slippage. Of course, the owner may justifiably object, but if you are at all unsure of the clutch operation, ask a mechanic to check it for you. 



Scheduled improvements, repairs & renewals.


1. Tyres all round, a necessary and completed safety renewal. The existing tyres are all sidewall UV damaged as a result of standing for some eight years without covers, although interestingly, the tread wear was negligible….Cost £600.

2. Investigate scuttle shake and steering wheel vibration, its not the tyres or wheel balance, I suspect an underlying issue, such as an out of balance concentrically running driveshaft, dried out CV joint or slightly bent wheel hub….Cost unknown.

3. Mobile fitting of Dunlop air assisted suspension complete with compressor and double dash mounted gauges by Rhino installs…Cost £1500. At this price, it’s an intensely personal decision, but one that I’m sure will pay dividends.

4. Re-mapping for me, is a must, yet another intensely personal decision, but having driven it for a few weeks now, I’m not sure how much longer I can put up with the sluggish acceleration….Cost £300. 

Finally, a comment on diesel engined low mileage motor homes that stand around with little use over the years. They don’t like it, the bores glaze up, compression is marginally reduced, tyres suffer UV sidewall damage without covers and the electronics and electrics deteriorate with damp ingress. 

Mileage isn’t everything, better one with more mileage than one that’s been started twice a year for annual holidays. Fiat diesel engines take mileage very well, notwithstanding the electrics, which have never been a Fiat strong point.

Regards

Geoff123


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

I would not rush into engine mapping. My 2.8 jtd runs a lot better than when I first bought it. It had been stood in a dealers for a long time and was definitely sluggish.

150 ml of 2 stroke engine oil bunged in the fuel tank before filling will not do it any harm.

Depending on how long yours has stood, that healthy looking exhaust system might be muck rotten on the inside. Mine fell apart on the M8 in Glasgow. 8O Make sure you know where you can get one. It will be a re-mortgage job probably so you can either get a Stainless one fitted for the same price or get your local friendly garage to fit the UK RHD exhaust (cost of £65 labour for me, also on AlKo chassis). The UK exhausts are 1/4 the price of the LHD European versions. It would depend on how much Continental touring you want to do.


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## Geoff123 (Sep 4, 2006)

*Reply to 584 purchase.*



747 said:


> I would not rush into engine mapping. My 2.8 jtd runs a lot better than when I first bought it. It had been stood in a dealers for a long time and was definitely sluggish.
> 
> 150 ml of 2 stroke engine oil bunged in the fuel tank before filling will not do it any harm.
> 
> Depending on how long yours has stood, that healthy looking exhaust system might be muck rotten on the inside. Mine fell apart on the M8 in Glasgow. 8O Make sure you know where you can get one. It will be a re-mortgage job probably so you can either get a Stainless one fitted for the same price or get your local friendly garage to fit the UK RHD exhaust (cost of £65 labour for me, also on AlKo chassis). The UK exhausts are 1/4 the price of the LHD European versions. It would depend on how much Continental touring you want to do.


Thanks for that gen' maybe I will hang on and see if it improves.

Cheers....Geoff.


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## Geoff123 (Sep 4, 2006)

*584 economy check - 31.7 MPG*

PS. I'm delighted to tell you that after blowing the soot out for around 1300 miles and on 3 proper tank to tank checks, the 584 has averaged out at 31.7 MPG without sparing the throttle too much. Now that "is" a plus point.

Forgot to mention the Aircon, ice cold and very useful it will be, come September in France. No use in Wales of late though..sob, will the sun ever shine again.

If anyone is interested, I will let you know how the Dunlop Air-Ride performs when fitted, which is 31st July.

Geoff.


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## dinger (Jul 30, 2007)

*584*

Hi Geoff,

Just had our 2007 remapped by WOW , taking it from 130 to 160 , . My initial reactiion is the Waggoner now drives more smoothly with less flat spots, and gear changing , so the torque of the engine is more productive.

Have just purchased via Black circles 4 Continental Vanco Campers at £485

Had the van for 18 months and probably done 135 plus nights away , so far very impressed with the lay out.

To make the table go down to its lowest position , ensure the leaver underneath the table is off ie anti clock , depress the black button on the floor with your foot and press down on the table., it should now go down to its lowest position

Dinger


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## Geoff123 (Sep 4, 2006)

*Re: 584*



dinger said:


> Hi Geoff,
> 
> Just had our 2007 remapped by WOW , taking it from 130 to 160 , . My initial reactiion is the Waggoner now drives more smoothly with less flat spots, and gear changing , so the torque of the engine is more productive.
> 
> ...


Hi Dinger,

Really useful info' thanks, especially the re-mapping and the table.

My table refuses to go fully down, my guess is that there's a spring loaded lever under metal shroud on the floor and it's not pulling back enough to release the central table pillar, when stomping on the black button, I will have to investigate.

I really like the tread on those Continentals by the way. Not badly priced either! As a licensed debt counsellor, I obviously need to get my act together.

Geoff.


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## dinger (Jul 30, 2007)

*584*

Hi again Geoff ,

Bit of pain the floor mech not releasing the table , we actually use the bed downstairs with infill as its so big and comfy and so took the mattress out of the pull down bed to create loads of storage space.

The tyres have just been fitted and well impressed , certainly won't wear the tread out :lol:

Two other things to be mindful of......there has been stories of the shower tray cracking due to lack of support underneath, our one seems ok

The other is the electroblok ...which can be succeptable to sudden surges that can blow the circuitry . After doing some research we bought a gizmo that just plugs in before the power entres the box ( in the first compartment near the drivers side if right hand drive) you can buy this from Dave Newell electrical for about £50. Or from the electroblock manufacturer in Germany. Well worth the peace of mind.

Hope that helps

Dinger


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## Geoff123 (Sep 4, 2006)

*Re: 584*



dinger said:


> Hi again Geoff ,
> 
> Bit of pain the floor mech not releasing the table , we actually use the bed downstairs with infill as its so big and comfy and so took the mattress out of the pull down bed to create loads of storage space.
> 
> ...


Hi Dinger,

Thanks for that extra gen' I'll certainly make sure that I take note of the possible shower tray problem, that could write off a few bob and put a smile on some Hymer dealer's face!

Regards

Geoff.


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## dinger (Jul 30, 2007)

*584*

Didn't want to cause alarm regards the shower tray but have read several report on here of this happening , having said that I,m sure your not going to stomp around in there with heavy boots or stiletos 


:lol:

Otherwise the layout is a really good compromise and most visitors on board agree.

Good luck

Dinger


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