# The Bay of Biscay and beyond



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

... hopefully! 

This is D-1, the MH is pretty much ready to go and I head for Rosslare tomorrow for the boat to Bilbao on Wednesday. 

So please, everyone, start praying now, or crossing all the fingers n toes for no wind or waves in the Bay of Biscay for Wednesday n Thursday! 🙏 🤞


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Looking good at present;

Easterly, so off the land, so short fetch and therefore no large nasties. Yes there will be swell, but only just over 1.0 m and you will not notice that.

Have a good trip, keep a lookout for dolphins - very common at present and may well play around the bows of the boat and even larger killer whales - usually solitary but may be seen in packs rarely.






Marine Wind and Wave chart for Biscay (Lat: 45.00, Lon: -8.00) | Marine Weather


Marine weather chart for Biscay (Lat: 45.00, Lon: -8.00) showing wind speed and wave height forecast information on a graph.



www.myweather2.com


----------



## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

We saw Minke whales and Finn whales along with over 1000 dolphins (according to the wild life official) on one crossing. Fingers crossed for good sailing.

Gordon


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Ooh, I hope I do see some wildlife! 

Had a good run down to Rosslare, lovely weather and the Mournes were magnificent. I'm not really a motorway person but it made the journey down very simple indeed. And I've remembered to pay my toll online! 

Parked up at Cullerton's bar. Got fish n chips to bring back to the MH. Took about half an hour but I think it must've been waiting on service for 25mins! It's tasty - but not hot! 

Just a few mins to the harbour in the morning.


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Sounds like a great start to a memorable trip, enjoy.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Sometimes a microwave is handy Jean.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Overnight was quiet (earplugs!) Must remember next time not to select Rosslare Harbour - turns out it goes to Rosslare Harbour Village so I'd to turn in the parking area for a swanky new development. Boat was almost an hour late in leaving. Calm so far! 😉


----------



## Relyat (Oct 6, 2020)

Quite a theme lately. 
A friend of mine was over an hour late departing Plymouth two nights ago and our most recent two departures have both seen an hours delay. Still arrived on time though.


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Glad to hear so far OK, delays are often caused by tides as the mooring and channels out can have shallow bits - certainly true of St Malo where the ships are limited when they can tie up.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Great trip on the boat, nice n smooth, great night's sleep. Just recording that in case I get the collywobbles next time I'm thinking of taking this route! Apparently a new, big ship is coming on this route in November and running over winter (the present one stops Nov thro March).


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Must be great to get away again Jean before the winter weather sets in. Where are you heading initially? South obviously but down the Portuguese coast or direct to the Med?

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I intend spending a bit of time in the Picos until it gets a bit cold then I'll head south into Portugal but I'm thinking west of Portugal rather than the coast which I've done a number of times - magnificent tho it is. That's the 'plan', as far as it goes. But I'd intended turning up to the aire high above Bilbao on the off-chance they'd have space (now they've introduced a book 48hrs in advance edict). I'd put an alternative in to TT just in case. But forgot to reinstate the 1st choice. I didn't notice till I was in a spaghetti of motorway and decided just to rl with it. So now I'm in the aire at Santillana del Mar with a nice view, albeit not as majestic as that of Bilbao. And I have cow and church bells. 

What a lovely wee place! Picked up a map from the TO (it's obviously been a long day - it was all she could do to give me the info). Seems a very popular place with quite a few tourists and also on the Camino de Santiago.


----------



## Drew (May 30, 2005)

Excellent photos as usual Jean, thank you.


----------



## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Go girl, what a great blue sky, quite the reverse back here in Norn Iron. 

Terry


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Super morning in Altamira museum, with a 'copy' of the caves and their artwork from c.24,000yrs ago. 








Apparently tho they have most drawings of bison, they ate very little of it (mostly wild goat). 3km back to town but all downhill! Divested of fleece n vest on the way up! Weather mostly grey but warm. 

Also checked out the Diocesan museum - lots to see, including 2 Virgin Mary's suckling the child (both 16th century which quite surprised me). I got annoyed, as always, at the expense of silverware and priestly garments paid for, no doubt, by the poor. There was a very strong connection with Mexico and Peru. 







Judas - very evocative. 








12 keys n 12 pipes - I guess that was for the old chants. 

Had a fabulous lunch that involved fabadas soup n pig's cheeks (that's a 1st!)







I asked for a small portion as my entrée! 

It's a very busy wee place but strangely doesn't feel overcrowded. After almost 11km n a lot of standing in museums my hips are objecting! 
































I thought that last was an upmarket version of the white plastic chair at the end of the side road but it turned out to belong to the parking attendant - and she didn't miss anyone trying to leave without paying the parking fee!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I wondered why I’m not getting notification from your thread Jean, it’s because I’m only reading, hopefully I will be notified now. 
Once again you are finding interesting places, must admit not what I do, my Motley would be very bored 😟


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

JanHank said:


> my Motley would be very bored


Yes, my kids would have been keen for me to have the company of a dog (and I would also enjoy the company) but my style of motorhoming would be pretty boring for a wee dog!

Today the weather was very grey and, at times, very wet. But I got the wetgear on n down to see the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana. It was originally a monastery from 9th century, became a church in 11th C. Nice external architecture, imposing church and a cloister that housed a completely hand-made depiction of scenes from the life of Christ, some of it animated. It was a massive display and a huge undertaking.

I was unable to empty my loo before leaving - you had to scan your ticket but mine had nothing scannable on it. As I understood it, water and emptying was included in the price (of €12) tho electricity was an extra €4.




























Made my way to San Vicente de la Barquera. I'd to choose between campsite for €18 or aire for €10 (both without electricity) so I came to the aire. Have an open view over the green area the surfers park on with the beach just beyond. So many surfers!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

The day promised to be pretty much rained off but turned out so much better. The original town seems to have been on the high narrow ground between the castle and the impressive Santa Maria Church at the top - it has heavy oak floors in 'slabs' to facilitate burials beneath the floor. There's a pretty estuary with lots of little boats tied up as well as a working port. I climbed to the lighthouse (inaccessible) which might have been a mistake as I was still wearing my wetgear trousers (admittedly with only knickers beneath but that meant I couldn't peel them off when the sun came out full force!)


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

You visit so many churches Jean, are you religious?

I noticed this morning all your pictures have an explanation of what they are, do you add that or is it some magic your camera has? Just looked again it is definitely computer speak not your words.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I don't really like the term religious Jan. Pre-covid I was a 'religious' church-goer but I've not felt comfortable about going back to what was a very packed church. I've found over the years that I get quite exercised about the fanciful and expensive decoration in many churches, often provided by the poor of the parish in years gone by. So I'm not fond of 'the establishment'. But I do visit because there's always something of interest. 

I had intended heading up into the Picos today but there was a lot of mist n cloud IP there so came along to Llanes. Parked in public carpark. There IS a barriered camper place beside me but there were so ma y negative comments about not being able to get out, or not being able to empty the toilet until you'd been there 24hrs... ??? There's also nicer looking parking behind me but it's on sandy gravel n that makes a right mess in the van so happy where I am. 

Llanes is another lovely wee spot with some impressive buildings and even their everyday buildings are attractive. 

I got stopped by the police today. But only to let a road race thro! The leaders were a full 2 mins ahead of the pack. 

Coming home I saw a woman feeding a crow in her garden. Turns out it arrived as a tiny fledgling 2yrs ago n she's been it's Mum ever since. It followed her into the house when she went to get some food n it wasn't one bit bothered by her wee dog.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Had a really nice day out, taking in the historical areas and buildings in town, the fabulous seas and a lovely menu del dia. I'd forgotten they put an entire bottle of wine on the table in the north of Spain! (I didn't drink it all 😂) Fabada (the white bean stew/soup, pork and chips, cheesecake (that was a lot closer to the real thing). I'm glad the wind n waves were noisy cos I was making some wind of my own, after all these beans 😉 I'm pretty whacked having been out for about 9hrs.













Don't know if that's a bit garish but I like it. The old posh houses were built by folk who'd gone to the Americas in 19th n early 20yh centuries n came back having made their money. 


















































That last is *definitely* garish!


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Maybe the last one's owner has been to colorado.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

The waves were absolutely stupendous, smashing against the cliffs and rocks in the bays, spume risind I'd say 40' or more. 







Zoom in n you'll see some artwork on the blocks to break up the waves. Call me a philistine but it just looks like a junk yard to me!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Lovely building on the last picture spoilt by whats at the bottom.

Your phone can certainly take lovely pictures Jean, or is it the handler?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Ooh, this should have gone yesterday! 

Definitely the handler Jan! 😉

Moved to Ribadesella this morning, only about half an hour away. Got the last spot on the 5-bay aire, tho I think that was cos folk hadn't left yet! Another nice wee place with a couple of nice walks either side of the bay. There's a superb set of large ceramic murals showing, in cartoon style, the history of the town. The sound, and the power, and the spume of the waves is fantastic. I can't see me getting up into the Picos any time soon. Anyway, they've been shrouded in mist n cloud so not very inviting ATM. Noticed a tiny mark on the map for the Cueva de Tito Bustillo (not even marked as a point of interest). A group of young cavers had come across these ancient wall-paintings quite by chance in 1968. The cave itself was fully booked till Fri (need to pre-book) but the associated museum was free and very good with photos, reconstructions and audio. It'll be 18,000 steps by bedtime - think I need a rest!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Came over to Gijón today, about an hour's drive, much of it thro pelting rain. The aire here and the parking outside it is heaving with vans but I got a spot on the actual MH area looking thro the trees to beach and sea. It's about 45mins walk to the TO so will hope for some drier weather this afternoon.


----------



## bilbaoman (Jun 17, 2016)

jiwawa said:


> Came over to Gijón today, about an hour's drive, much of it thro pelting rain. The aire here and the parking outside it is heaving with vans but I got a spot on the actual MH area looking thro the trees to beach and sea. It's about 45mins walk to the TO so will hope for some drier weather this afternoon.
> View attachment 98706


Dont forget your earplugs tonight as the lorries go into the port right through the night


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

bilbaoman said:


> Dont forget your earplugs tonight as the lorries go into the port right through the night


Yeah, it's pretty noisy! But I have no doubt I'll sleep with my earplug. 

Where are you BTW? I'd hoped you might have logged your journey tho, as it turns out, I haven't quite made it into the Picos - yet! Rain has been horrendous today, don't think I've seen such huge drops before!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I kept delaying heading in to town - I'd get ready then the heavens would open. Eventually got going about half 3. Pretty uninspiring walk in to TO - which was incredibly hard to find! And I got drenched just before that - by the time I'd opened my umbrella the water was running down the back of my neck. Got the bus back and will use it to go in again tomorrow I think, save my energy for wandering round the old part. Masks are obligatory on public transport. 

That pic is of a green bottle art installation. It's probably more impressive in the sunshine.


----------



## bilbaoman (Jun 17, 2016)

jiwawa said:


> Yeah, it's pretty noisy! But I have no doubt I'll sleep with my earplug.
> 
> Where are you BTW? I'd hoped you might have logged your journey tho, as it turns out, I haven't quite made it into the Picos - yet! Rain has been horrendous today, don't think I've seen such huge drops before!


We are back home in Getxo which is on the coast opposite Bilbao port we were on the coast at Tapia de Casariego which is 100km up the coast from Gijon we returned home yesterday as the forcast for this week is not good you should get good weather starting sat with no rain and temp in the low 20s with sun next week


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Yes, I took advantage of the weather n headed into the hills (Pola de Siero), shorts n sandals 👍


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Had a super day out in Gijón yesterday. Took the bus (thank you Google maps for making that ever so easy) to the museum of Asturian culture (#1 bus) which comprised a 3-storey museum plus an external museum of buildings and implements from the previous couple of centuries. Really enjoyed the internal, took a break for lunch the did the external bit. Then I walked down to the front, along the bay and up to the Cimadevilla, the old part of the city. After which I got the bus back (#6 - €1.50 per journey, and well worth it).








Isn't this a beautifully carved personal possession? Used for milking the cows (goats?) on the hoof, so to speak. 








Remember the Moulinex? 








My Mum had one of these








Wouldn't you think the priest might have removed the poster for the local raffle?!








A lovely, unexpected 'amyse-bouche' before lunch








Are they wearing their lunch on their heads? 








Bagpipes, and yes that is an entire goat!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

More from Gijón 



























Not sure what this is about but I suspect it's to do with similar geological deposits in the different areas. 









This monument in the headland of the cimadevilla is certainly strange. They say you can hear the sea from within the circle but what I heard was more akin to the noise a small plane takes when taking off. You certainly don't hear it when you step outside the structure. 









They've the windows in here but no roof on!









Fisherman's cottage 









Plaza Mayor


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Brilliant as usual Jean. Must be warm with the swimmers and bride in dress.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And today, with the hills promising good weather, I headed up to Pola de Siero. I wouldn't have thought it's on too many tourist routes but I've had a lazy day wandering round town (in shorts n sandals, woohoo!) and will probably do the river walk tomorrow to Los Corros n get the train back (will need to check Sunday services). The train line winds round the MH parking but I'm sure it'll be grand.


These 1st 2 were Gijón before I left. The statue is to the schoolchildren who were sent to Russia (?!) at the start of the Spanish civil war. Wonder what happened to them - did they return? Well, the 1st 2 seem to have got lost, will have to see what actually gets posted 
￼￼

This is the parking at Pola - I'm at the top, to the left of the yellow van, just behind the P sign - will have to watch that when I take off but I've put a note on the steering wheel. 
.








Santa Anna 



































I asked for cidre and this is what I got -


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I see the Gijón photos have turned up at the bottom.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

raynipper said:


> Brilliant as usual Jean. Must be warm with the swimmers and bride in dress.
> 
> Ray.


The swimmers are all in wetsuits these days Ray - cissies!


----------



## bilbaoman (Jun 17, 2016)

In answer to your question on the children yes they returned along with the Basque children that were sent during the civil war they did not return until after the end WW2 also a lot were sent to the UK


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I wonder, why are your pictures scattered all over the page Jean.
I am not being alerted you have added to the post either.

How times have changed, a bride dressed in white and looks as if the groom is carrying their baby.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

The pics are spread out cos I've added comments to individual ones. It looks grand on my phone but maybe not for others? Also, I've been using 'thumbnails' recently - are these OK, rather than the full size? For myself, I find zooming in on a thumbnail it jumps all over the place. 

The dress was very definitely champagne-coloured, in fact a much darker champagne than normal.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Today I walked along the river Nora. It was pleasant but slightly marred by the constant noise of the motorway which also follows the river. I'd thought I'd get the train back from the station at Los Corros, after about 2hrs' walking. I was needing the loo by that time but Los Corros station turned out to be just a 'bus' shelter 😮 Never mind, I could see there was a café within about 30mins....Closed 😮

I asked a man walking his dogs and he indicated the nearest toilets or servicios were miles away 😮 (maybe he was talking about a fuel station - I'd already discovered there was none in town). Then I said café? and he indicated there was only one and proceeded to walk me to it. He was fairly shifting and after 14k steps I had to dig deep to keep up with him. Boy was I glad to see the café! 

Enjoyed a burger n sidra then walked to the local station in Liera to catch the 16.33 - nada. The timetable at the station said 16.47 - nada. Then I worked out that those were Mon-Fri services n the next was actually at 17.37. Thankfully there were seats n the weather was good. €2.50 back to Pola. 

I think I'm more proud of having negotiated these public transport journeys the last few days than I am of driving all the way here! 

Some lovely crochet/knitting artwork along the route done, I think, by primary school children as I could see 6r n 6p mentioned. 


























I wondered if this might be the rummagings of a boar? I seemed to see the imprint of his snout tho I could see no evidence of any hoof prints which seemed strange








An ancient granary store - the other side has completely collapsed








Blackberries still to come tho most have long gone


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I came down to La Pola de Gordòn, via an as-yet-to-be - opened aire in La Pola de Lena. It's some size, next to the cattle market so I guess it might stink at times but it's looking good. 

I'm most definitely up in the hills now and the sun is hot. The Range guage on the dash is notoriously unreliable but it still gave me the heebie-jeebies when it shrank from 160 to 60 very quickly and then flat-lined! Even tho I could see I was just under a quarter full. I picked up at the next station (the only one I'd seen that morning) even tho it was.€1.84. This seems like a very sleepy wee town but I shall have a wee dander. There's a lovely river running alongside the 4-space aire. The only fly in the ointment is exactly that - the flies have an obsession with my darkened glasses 🤬

The fridge was in full sun (don't think the fan is working but I've started a separate thread about that) so I've moved back a bit to get a bit of tree shade.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Can´t you just turn round Jean? I suppose you won't get the view from the van then, what a shame.
Looks beautiful.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I could turn round but that puts my door on the road side.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

How did this odd-shaped building ever get built?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I drove down to 1 of 3 aires in Leòn, picking up diesel and gas on the way (having remembered to turn off the gas!) I'd thought I'd a full 2nd tank but discovered it was well into the yellow! Got a lovely surprise to find the price for each was discounted by 25¢/litre so diesel was €1.569 and gas was €0.809. Got a bit lost in NE Leòn so was round a few of the narrow, parked-up streets.

It's a really lovely city with some beautiful architecture. I've seen many cathedrals but this one seemed to have a special wow factor both inside and out. There's a lovely Gaudi building which doesn't say Gaudi at all.

Also a fabulous San Marcos building which used to be a convent; now the 'church' bit is a museum (having had a gory past as a prison and centre of torture) and the other part is a parador hotel.

It's certainly a very busy city, very vibrant.



























The Gaudi House (Casa Botines)

















Gaudi looking on. 








San Marcos 















Think this might represent Abraham and Isaac but the artist had a sense of humour - see the dog, bottom left!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

The buildings look fantastic Jean, did you sit and have a chat with him on the seat, I bet he would listen to you

As for the dog, when you’ve gotta go you’ve gotta go, I did notice it before I read your text, the rounded back gives him away.😀


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

The dog reminded me of a huge nativity scene they had in Blanes one Christmas - it was like a big stall you could wander round. And in lots of little places you could see models of animals or children defecating! Certainly brought home the 'ordinariness' of the nativity!


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Not children Jean The Caganer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caganer


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

My memory's getting worse! 

I had another great day in León tho the museum I had wanted to see was closed - they were having a fiesta! A stage was being erected in every square and loads of amplifying equipment (😒) being moved to different locations. The streets were being hosed down and everyone was out in their finery. They'd a medieval market - about half the stalls were jewellery (?) and lots of street food. It was a super atmosphere. Then today I drove down to Salamanca across huge fertile plains albeit of red soil. I wonder if most of the production was maize (it was already harvested) as it seemed to be further south where it hadn't yet been cut. I wonder do they have to use more fertiliser than we would on dark, loamy soil. Or maybe maize doesn't need rich soil. Certainly there were no animals for miles to provide natural fertiliser. My stop in Salamanca is a lot less salubrious than I'm used to - under a bridge in a parking area on dirt with lots of very big potholes. I hope I can get out again! 

Salamanca is well worth a visit; it has quite a lot of amazing architecture and a lot of buzz due to its being a University town and a tourist attraction. 

I'll add some photos of León, followed by some of Salamanca.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And Salamanca - 

I'm parked under that bus! 








The roman Bridge and the cathedral 


























When they built the new cathedral in 16th century they didn't destroy they old, built in the 12th - quite unusual. 








This Japanese tourist was certainly straying from their normal sober dress! Red shoes, pink trousers, yellow, orange and purple jacket. 








This is the library! 









This is Casa Lis - they have a wonderful collection of art nouveau items. I didn't visit this time but remember being particularly impressed with the stained glass windows which reminded me of Rennie Mackintosh, and with a collection of dancing figurines 








And this is home time, looking back at the Roman Bridge


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Just past Salamanca on the A-62 heading west 2019 we stopped at the worst hostel/restaurant we have ever encountered at Sancti-Spiritus. hostel-la-ponderosa - Google Search was so diabolical that it convinced us to abort our trip to Portugal after 7 warning lights came on the Tiguan dash and head home.
As it happened the car was fixed (at great expense) and then Covid kicked in. So it was a good result but the Hostel still leaves a bad taste.

Ray.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

What superb building Jean, must have been breath taking when you stood next to them, glad to see the bus didn´t crush you when it was over the top. 
I´m putting a map on to show where you are.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I came up to Freixo de Espada à Cinta - first of all across more vast plains then suddenly into the hills. So I am in Portugal after all! 

However, yesterday I got some distressing news from home so I think I'm just going to take some time out and sit here for another day. My young Grandson's buddy's Daddy was caught up in the explosion in Creeslough and was sadly one of the fatalities. His son was in the car right outside the shop and is absolutely traumatised. 

Whoever your God is, please pray for healing for all those affected, and for the community at large, which is very tight-knit and everyone will be feeling it.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Oh how distressing Jean, I saw the devastation on the news this morning, unfortunately I do not believe in any god, all I can do is say how sorry I am for them all and hope it wasn't a bomb. Have a quiet day.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Mee too Jan.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

They're blaming it on a gas explosion tho the Gardai haven't actually come out n said that.


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Sorry to hear that Jean. Terrible thing. Probably dozens of gas cylinders like so many rural filling stations in Ireland, often stored inside against theft.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

They seem to think it originated in one of the flats upstairs but again, that's not been said officially.


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Sad thing.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

There are 10 fatalities in total and a number of casualties, one of whom is in a serious condition. Everyone is just stunned. My daughter says it's like the covid lock down days, everything is so quiet and subdued.


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

It will effect the village for ever Jean.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I did stay another day in Freixo - very relaxed. They'd a market on next door on the Saturday morning so got a roast chicken n potatoes n made soup stock in the slow cooker (outside!)

Left on the Sunday after listening to the singing from a church service held in the next-door tent. Not sure why cos they have plenty churches in town. Drove to Pinhel along a route that's marked on the map as being an attractive drive, and it certainly was. Made all the more pleasant by the fact there was virtually no traffic on the road - I'd assumed Sunday, nice day, pretty route, it was likely to be heaving.

Yesterday I visited the Cultural Centre (former Bishop's Palace) where there's a museum with a variety of exhibitions including a good number of works by José Manuel Soares - he had an incredibly wide range of talents including comic book illustrator. There's a huge cannon on the hill, testament to the fact that Pinhel was a major defence against 'they Spanish'. It's very similar to Mons Meg at Edinburgh Castle.

Someone hailed me in French as I passed their garden. They were Portuguese but had good French n we had a bit of conversation - made me realise I miss that in Spain n Portugal.

My legs are a mess this morning thanks to the Portuguese House flies - they bite! And while the results on me aren't quite as bad as mozzie bites, they're not far off. I must've left my antihistamine cream at home so went to chemist for some. Unfortunately it doesn't rub in n disappear so I now look as if I have leprosy 😂 That'll certainly keep people clear!

Made pressure cooker soup when I got back and it's out on a wall cooling. Didn't think I was going to get home dry as the skies were black n a lot of thunder. But the sun came out again. I bought some wine (first I've opened this trip) and at €1.99 it's very nice! And my coffee this morning was all of 80¢ - the baristas in UK must be raking it in! Well, not the baristas but the owners. Met a guy (Slavic by the sound of it) who used to live in London, now runs a restaurant here. Well, used to be a proper restaurant but with covid he moved sideways into takeaway n has stuck with that.
































Thought this was the fertility clinic per the sign on the front but this beautiful building is actually the job centre!!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I see its crowded again Jean 😁


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

How do you manage to find these picturesque and deserted air's Jean.? Wonderful series of pics and memories.

Ray.


----------



## terencepaul (Feb 8, 2018)

jiwawa said:


> My memory's getting worse!
> 
> I had another great day in León tho the museum I had wanted to see was closed - they were having a fiesta! A stage was being erected in every square and loads of amplifying equipment (😒) being moved to different locations. The streets were being hosed down and everyone was out in their finery. They'd a medieval market - about half the stalls were jewellery (?) and lots of street food. It was a super atmosphere. Then today I drove down to Salamanca across huge fertile plains albeit of red soil. I wonder if most of the production was maize (it was already harvested) as it seemed to be further south where it hadn't yet been cut. I wonder do they have to use more fertiliser than we would on dark, loamy soil. Or maybe maize doesn't need rich soil. Certainly there were no animals for miles to provide natural fertiliser. My stop in Salamanca is a lot less salubrious than I'm used to - under a bridge in a parking area on dirt with lots of very big potholes. I hope I can get out again!
> 
> ...


Very nice. I believe its the oldest Uni in Spain. Visited last year and loved Salamanca. Alvila quite good to but Segovia if you haven't been is lovely.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

raynipper said:


> How do you manage to find these picturesque and deserted air's Jean.? Wonderful series of pics and memories.
> 
> Ray.


I just use Park4night for places, around me usually. I'm usually looking for somewhere where I can do stuff - I'm not one for sitting around the van. Maybe if I had a partner I'd be more inclined to do that. 

I'm in Almeida yesterday n today - what a great wee place, and a lovely open, clean aire with large bays, free electricity. And still someone comes and parks right next to me - think there must be magnets in the walls! In fact 3 different vans have parked right next to me in the last 24hrs (and right next to the service area which folk usually prefer to avoid). And the one who was overnight was prowling around outside from about 6.30am and drove off about 7. Why couldn't he have parked in the huge uninhabited space behind me!? 

Anyway, Almeida is a very interesting place with Vaubun-like fortifications. Of course, if you look like a strongly-fortified place it just encourages all those looking for a bit of aggro to come n try to take you down a peg or two. And that's what happened, with the Spanish, the French, and even with themselves for a bit. 

And the pastéis de nata are to die for! 

There are a couple of shepherds take their flocks round the area, 1 young with no dog but a mobile phone, the other much older with 2 of these massive dogs they use for sheep plus a collie. And this morning the 2 big dogs came to visit (followed by the sheep!) and he'd another big dog this time. They are SO skinny I would love to have given them something, but not another man's dog. 

The aire in front of the bombeiros









The outline if the defensive town









I think I'd be safe enough with him?!









This building was close to the entry gate n the right hand 'window' is actually a little enclosed turntable that people could set a baby on and turn it round, into the heat of the home, and noone would ever see who had left the child.








The shepherd with his flock grazing near the town - he takes them in to the moat area too. In fact, I saw 1 lone sheep there long after the others had left today so a shepherd n 4 dogs still weren't getting the job done! I wonder did he miss it later n come looking. 








Here are the 2. The white one has been way over-bred. 








Pastéis de nata 

























Anyone know why the Chevrolet would have BV (VB?) on its front? Look at the charabanc seats for the fire crew! And the split-screen VW is an ambulance - the Bombeiros also act as paramedics and take casualties to hospital.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

jiwawa said:


> I'm not one for sitting around the van.


And having said that, I did exactly that this afternoon! Apart from fitting the drip strip above the 2nd garage door - needs to be done when it's warm so no point waiting till I'm back in NI weather! 


jiwawa said:


> Anyone know why the Chevrolet would have BV (VB?) on its front?


And I figured that out - Bombeiros Voluntários. I'm slow, but I get there! 

I visited the King's Stables this morning - some horses with excellent blood, apparently. But I'm again left feeling sorry for them as they seem to spend so much time just standing in their small stables. It's been a glorious day today and only about 10mins ago did I think about the shades I made for the windows to keep the sun out when they're open! Too late now. 

Saw the shepherd heading home this evening. The collie was great at keeping them from moving forward while he brought the stragglers into a tight bunch for crossing the road. The big dogs weren't interested! They came to see me instead!


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

That parking thing really bugs us too Jean.

I think they are afraid and looking for safety in numbers. We've been asked several times on aires which are completely strange to us whether it's safe to stay overnight, to which we always say we don't know anything about this particular aire but have stayed at hundreds and never had any serious problems. Then they stay and try to park on top of us.

Great pics again Jean.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Here are the 2. The white one has been way over-bred. 


*Why do you say that Jean?

The horses,* where we have visited for the past 19 years, Warmalow warmeloh turnier. the horses there are kept in boxes, but they are at least big enough and they are free to turn around, not tied up, these horses are allowed out onto the meadow for a few hours each day taking it in turns, when the owners go to fetch them to take them in mostly they are waiting at the gate and can´t wait to get I their stables.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

JanHank said:


> Why do you say that Jean?


You might be able to see her teats in this pic from this morning.








They were all in attendance this morning 








Having a coffee and this beastie - the same ones that plagued me on a previous trip - was occupying the next seat 😒 I hope they don't hitch a lift this year. 








My last look at the shepherds passing - I've thoroughly enjoyed their visits, I feel quite privileged 









I had to carry my washing to a lavanderie from the campsite in Guarda - but at least there _was_ one, apparently they're like hen's teeth in Portugal. Making the bed is a nightmare but it can wait a while....


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

They all look in bad condition, rather skinny, probably full of tape worms. 
I see what you mean, I misunderstood the overbred you mean she is a breading machine, I'd willingly whip people that do that to an animal if it were legal.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

They were incredibly skinny just in front of the hips. I assume she's like that because of too many litters rather than she's suckling ATM, cos she's out all day.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Decided not to investigate in Guarda as my hips are playing up n there are too many steep roads - so I came to this! Sortelha.














I chose to follow Google maps as she was going by the less travelled roads, rather than TomTom (that knows my dimensions). We were in pretty hilly, tortuous country and on a single track road when I suddenly wondered was TT telling me to turn around ASAP cos there was a height restriction? Anyway, I stuck with it even when TT said there was a dead end - no such thing, just a span of about 2km where she thought there was no road. Another, later, of maybe 5km but the road was perfectly fine, and neither was new. It was a lovely drive. But the town itself must be at least as steep as Guarda! Not sure why the hips are being so problematic...

The aire has parking below the higher platform for servicing but there's no shade so, being the only one here I parked in a bit of shade up beside the service area. Had a problem with my alarm when I returned (started another thread looking for answers) - it's quite possible it's sorted itself out but I'll avoid going in the garage or setting the alarm tonight. It seems perfectly safe.
























What is this? It looks like a rhododendron leaf bt those red things look like pips rather than flowers. 























Right in front of the altar - I bet she got the rounds of the kitchen!


----------



## Drew (May 30, 2005)

As usual Jean, fabulous photographs. Thank you.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

The magic Google App found Magnolia Magnolie Baum Saatkapseln handverlesen Basteln - Etsy.de


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Excellent Jan, that's it exactly! My Google lens wasn't getting it.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

The only photo today - it had to happen sometime 🙁








So now I think my general malaise (sore hips, achey limbs n muscles) must be down to covid. 

I don't think I'll have passed it on to anyone as I always wear an FFP2 mask when I have to be indoors. I was recently, at Lidl's and in the lavandaria, tho only as long as it took to feed n empty the machines. I suspect I've picked it up from coinage - when buying coffee for 80¢ you can't pay with card - and altho I tried to be super strict about sanitising after contact... I guess I missed something. Anyway, I decided to come back into Spain since I have a Spanish health card, and I was near the border anyway. I'm feeling OK - tired, achey, bit of a cough, bit like flu. 

The drive over was superb - lots of wide-open views, low-level forestation, olive trees, cork trees with their denuded trunks a marvellous rich red-brown. Almost no traffic - in the best part of 2hrs' driving there were only 3 cars going my way. 

I emptied and filled the necessary at Sortelha and managed to find waste bins for paper n plastic on the way over. That, and having done a shop recently, means I can hunker down here for a few days. 

And it's raining so it's a good time to be sick!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Now I can read it. Isn´t 2012 a bit old, I would think there were a lot of roads added since then.

I did the picture before reading about you being ill Jean, sorry to hear that, hopefully it will soon be over and back to your plans.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Oh golly Jean. Hope it doesn't linger or the trip might be an uphill struggle.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Fingers crossed Ray. 

The map I use only to get an overview of where places are relative to each other so it's useful enough.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

How's are you today Jean?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I'm OK thanks Jan. I've moved to a campsite as we were due 27° today and there was no shade at the aire in Coira. I deliberately hadn't selected a campsite yesterday as I didn't want to take covid to them but the Spanish regs say that you're free to go about your business if you wear a mask, and keep away from vulnerable people. Unfortunately Coira didn't have a campsite 🙁 so I came to Plasencia - eventually. TT has an integrated DB of campsites and while I use GPS coordinates to find aires I just selected the site from the DB today. Wrong move. She took me way high into the centre of Plasencia and if there ever was a site there, there isn't now. Fortunately there was parking where I could pull in n re-evaluate. The site was about 5km away, down by the river! 

Anyway, now sorted, in the shade, awning out n sitting out with a drink (of water!) Didn't sleep well last night. Had to change to a lighter TOG duvet n read a couple of hours. One good thing - for the last few nights my hips haven't been excruciatingly painful overnight - hope that doesn't lift with the covid! 

I'm just going to sit till I feel more like myself.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Slept not too badly last night considering I'd spent a few hrs in bed in the afternoon (unheard of for me). Thought I might have tried a wee walk but by the time I'd done the breakfast dishes I was done. However, I've made it out now, just a wee dander to the river. 

Numerous MHs have come in n virtually all of them have elected to park in the full sun rather than the shade - temp is 27°. I assumed it was for solar (tho mine seems to be managing fine so far) but then they all took electricity....? 

One MH left this morning n I noticed the side of his MH was completely pitted, as the roof would be after a really bad hailstorm with hailstones the size of small golfballs... Wonder how that happened. The way the light was I couldn't tell if the rear wall was the same.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

I would suspect a ............................ hailstorm.??
I have seen them after a storm and also being sold off cheap on a German website.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I guess it could be, with a horizontal wind! I wouldn't mind having one if it was cheap enough!


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

There were lost like this stateside Jean but also in Germany.

Salvage Rvs for Sale in Online Auctions at Salvagebid 

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Thought I might have biked into town but even if I hadn't been faced with pumping up the tyres I'd have passed. Having a shower was exercise enough! A couple of chaps pulled in this morning with their caravan and nicely blocked my view of the rest of the site 🙁 Nothing at all to report except the weather has turned grey n cooler, tho it's still grand to sit outside in t-shirt.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Loads of rain during the night, decided that since the steepness of Plasencia and its distance from the campsite was preventing me from seeing anything I might as well move on. I'm at the aire in Navaconcejo overlooking a fast-flowing river so interesting - just as well cos the rain has hardly stopped since I arrived. Nice drive over tho in 'Scottish' looking countryside. Steep and stepped hillsides with lots of wee huts n bothies as well as houses. Cherries seem to loom large in their adverts but haven't actually seen any noticed any trees. Just coming to terms with Truss's departure. We must be the absolute laughing stock of the world.

The pics of the car - a couple with a car-top tent. Not sure if they got wet inside or just the tent was sodden but it was the devil to put away. In different circumstances I'd have offered them a coffee.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I moved away from the low-lying aire in Navaconcejo to higher on-street parking for the night - didn't fancy the Hymer turning into a boat! Next day I drove back to the aire - it hadn't actually risen any higher, or else it had but abated - before moving on just a few km to Cabezuela del Valle. The river was raging but the parking was higher and well away. I've been a wee walk and find I'm happy with very little. I tested myself yesterday morning as there was a chance I'd be meeting up with a couple I met on the boat - still positive 🙁 

It seems such a waste of opportunity not to get out there n see a bit more but there will be other trips.

These ribbons represent murder victims of gender-based violence (dark for women, light for girls) over the last 20yrs or so. Outside the TO 









Yesterday the river was raging half-way up these bushes in the centre. 






















A nice café con leche on the terrace


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

So sorry to read you are not feeling your normal happy healthy self yet Jean, maybe you should stay put for a few days and rest, put your feet up and do a bit of reading.
The scenery looks lovely.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I might just be doing that Jan - haven't got round yet to looking at what's up the road.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Glad you escaped Jean. Where to next?

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I arrived at El Barco de Ávila earlier. If I'd known how steep n tortuous the road was I might have left it a day or two - that brought home to me how fragile I feel! But it's done now, and the rain stayed away till I was parked - nice view for about 3mins! There's a Jewish museum nearby (as I thought - it's actually about beans!! 😂) 

Photos on the way over. The middle one has a 'ball of rainbow' which was magnificent but isn't picked up well by the camera.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I thought you were going to rest today, that's the best thing for recovery not gallivanting.
You know I love clouds, the middle picture is spectacular, pity about the rainbow or no rainbow.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Yes, I probably should have sat on....


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Had a lovely little walk around El Barco de Ávila and an even longer sit over café, tortilla n a glass of wine. No-one else on the parking. The weather was wild with thunderstorms n loads of rain getting thrown at the MH but today has been dry and bright. 















The river Tormes in spate 

















You can just about see the lovely shape of these windows behind the grille








The old prison 




















Don't know what this is but it was very impressive. Google lens thinks it's a Eurasian griffon vulture (I've only just learned how to use Google lens on a photo taken previously 👍)


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I see you are in view of houses Jean I thought for a minute it was very remote spot. 

How are you today, we would like to know


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Getting stronger by the day thanks Jan. Hopefully back to what passes for normal fairly soon 🤞


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Haven't updated for a few days. I drove to Ávila from El Barco and stopped on a paying aire looking towards the city walls. 11€ per night +€6 for electricity (I don't think so!) It was a very convenient stop tho still a bit of a stretch for me with my fatigue. The walls are amazingly preserved, there's lots to see, some fabulous architecture - so thank you to whoever it was on here who suggested both Ávila and Segovia. I spent 2 nights there then came up to Segovia which is also a gem. I decided from the comments on Park4night that I'd come to the new parking which is a bit further away.... Maybe not such a good move. 40mins in and a fairly gruelling climb back out at the end of the day. I'd originally intended to rest today but of course I saw the TO was due to close soon n wanted to get the info today to check it out. Had a lovely lunch in town n haven't quite recovered! It was blowing a gale by the time I was finished but everyone managed to hold on to their tablecloths n just took it in their stride. The Alcázar was amazing both in and out. 

The cathedral






















San Antonio and his 2 sisters martyred in Ávila 














Isn't this fabulous?! 
















The church of San Antonio just outside the walls








The steps up to the towers really were this steep! And deep, and uneven - not good for a lady of my age with bad hips! 








Me n Teresa


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And some photos of Segovia.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Wow Jean. A like is not really enough.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I'm sure there are loads more fabulous places I haven't seen yet. Oh, and the vest was off today, and back into crops n sandals! Woohoo!


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Should that be shorts & sandles Jean.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

No, crops are a little less of a challenge for the eyes of the locals 😂😂


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Crops are grown in fields, what are you calling crops, short trousers that used to be called peddle pushers in my young day.?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Yes, I'd forgotten the term pedal-pushers!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Nearly 4pm n I'm still here in Segovia but just relaxing at the MH with the fab view over the valley to the city. And I've been watching what Google tells me are lammergeier eagles, from their outline. They are magnificent. I'd the binoculars out n watching 3 of them lazily surfing the thermals when I became aware of a whole lot more of them - maybe 12-15? Such a privilege! Mind you, I haven't noticed any swooping into the valley so not sure if they're hunting successfully. 

I took painkillers before bed last night so had a good night till 5.30am. Took some more, as I thought, but they were actually antihistamines n I slept through till 10am!


----------



## terencepaul (Feb 8, 2018)

jiwawa said:


> Haven't updated for a few days. I drove to Ávila from El Barco and stopped on a paying aire looking towards the city walls. 11€ per night +€6 for electricity (I don't think so!) It was a very convenient stop tho still a bit of a stretch for me with my fatigue. The walls are amazingly preserved, there's lots to see, some fabulous architecture - so thank you to whoever it was on here who suggested both Ávila and Segovia. I spent 2 nights there then came up to Segovia which is also a gem. I decided from the comments on Park4night that I'd come to the new parking which is a bit further away.... Maybe not such a good move. 40mins in and a fairly gruelling climb back out at the end of the day. I'd originally intended to rest today but of course I saw the TO was due to close soon n wanted to get the info today to check it out. Had a lovely lunch in town n haven't quite recovered! It was blowing a gale by the time I was finished but everyone managed to hold on to their tablecloths n just took it in their stride. The Alcázar was amazing both in and out.
> 
> The cathedral
> View attachment 98992
> ...


Hope your 100% soon and glad you enjoyed Alvila and Segovia. Lovely pics


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Thanks Terry, so it was you who suggested? Great idea! Did you stay on the aire at the bullring?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Came up to Soria today - considerably longer journey than I'm used to recently! Skirted alongside a mountain range for a while then we were atop massive flat mountains at 1180m. Fabulous autumn colours, the ochre splashing to sunshine yellow when the clouds gave way, with fragile greens still clinging to the very top branches. And so many birds of prey. Red kites n lots of eagles tho I can't study them long enough to see what they are! There's very little traffic generally on the roads but a lorry that was very slow on inclines had built up quite a following. When we came to a crawler lane (maybe about 500m) he stayed in the outside lane! I can imagine in UK folk would have been pumping their horns n giving off. Nada. I'm parked in the Uni area of town. There's a café bar opposite called the Loosers!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I'm at the top of the town here but of course that means that everything of interest is downhill, and getting home is all uphill!! (That's life!) Had an enjoyable afternoon tho it's not got the same wow factor as my last 2 stops.

Parking at the top of the town 








Not sure what they represent but it may be their equivalent of trick'n'treat - certainly they were going into the shops etc singing and shaking their collecting tins. 







































This was an amazing mix of styles


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Looks like your parked at a loading bay Jean. Was it an industrial estate?

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

No, it's the sports centre for the Uni I think. Gosh, I'm in bed now so hope it's not a loading bay! Can't be, there's a kerb behind me!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Came up to Tudela in the Kingdom of Navarra, which the English claimed as their own centuries ago if I'm not mistaken. Lovely drive. Lots of reasonable-looking land already turned over, ready for a new planting - of what I don't know. I frequently see farmers tilling their fields enveloped in a thick cloud of dust (so thick that I turn off my fans before I meet them) but any I've been close enough to see, they don't wear any protection. I wonder is there a high incidence of lung disease amongst farmers. 

Not so many birds of prey today tho I did see one eagle, and a flock of geese on the wing (very untidy!) 

The parking is grand and I went back to a market I'd passed on the way but it was all clothes, bags, shoes n jewellery - nothing of interest! Came to the TO in the lovely Plaza de los Fueros to find a band playing. I'd love to put it up on the What made me smile thread but the system doesn't seem to accept video. Anyway, it had everyone smiling, tapping their feet n clapping their hands. I suspect it's special for Toussaints. I noticed in Soria the florists were coming down with pots of crysanths which seem to be the preferred flower for laying on graves at Toussaints. 

I'm enjoying a nice glass of red on the plaza (tho it must've been more than a half hour before he came to serve - yesterday in Soria I sat for what must've been a good half hour before giving up n heading on my way. 

I think the malaise of the covid has lifted so I'm really enjoying the trip again tho I still seem to be loaded with the cold.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Very pleased to here you´re feeling much better and able to enjoy your trip.
There are a lot of green fields here already Jean, the rape behind me is well on it´s way and seeds that were set a couple of weeks ago at the most where we walk have already made a nice green corn field.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

It would seem that diesel is cheaper in France than Spain ATM - is that correct?


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Dunno Jean. It's between €1.93 and €1.98 around here. How much is it in Spain?

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I paid €2.07 the other day but I've seen it €1.98 recently.


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Last Monday I passed the shell this side of the boarder and was glad I’m not using much At the moment, 2.10€


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

She'll seems to be the most expensive in France too. Saw prices from €1.89 to €2.26 travelling from Caen to Angouleme on our recent trip back from UK.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I didn't forget about the clocks but I was awake at an ungodly hour in the morning! Drove up to Burguete-Auritz. Not sure what language they speak here but their townland names have lots of Ks n Zs! The last 20km or so were interesting! Seemed a good idea at the time 😂 It's a very pretty little village (and it is little!) - I'd almost say Alpine but it's Pyrenéen!

I came up the wee white road running directly south thro Villanueve de Arce 














The streets have running water both sides. It's fed by pipes at the highest point




















I still get the jitters when I read about the persecution of witches. So easy to get one over on someone you disliked by raising the possibility. 


























Lovely to watch the clouds sliding down into the valleys








The parking here is in a field and there's a touch of rain this evening... The local farmer might be busy in the morning! 

I took a walk through the fields and heard someone calling his beasts, quite a few times. All of a sudden a herd of cattle came over the top of the hill at a lick, their bells clattering joyously. He fed them a huge crate of leftover baguettes! Obviously their favourite!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

How things change! That 'touch of rain' turned into an absolute belter of a thunder n lightning storm with the water being absolutely chucked down. With the lights on n the blinds closed (I'd watched it for a while) the windscreen suddenly lit up white-hot; I was just about to say Wow! when the thunder hit - and I really did feel the pressure change on my skin. As well as nearly jumping off the chair! Scary, but wow!

I did wonder, with all that rain, if we'd get off the field in the morning but no bother. Had a lovely drive to St Jean Pied de Port. Had a right giggle to myself as I'd been on the road for maybe 10-15mins, no side roads, no houses along the road, multiple hairpins... and Louise (satnav) suddenly says TURN AROUND WHERE POSSIBLE!!! I love that kind of driving so long as there's no-one up my tail-end. But this road had the odd pull-in (unlike yesterday's) so the odd car was able to get by.

The aire is more like a campsite (tho no showers etc) and I was able to dry off the awning that had been stowed wet about a fortnight ago. Electricity included for 11€ so I put on a slow-cooker soup.

Short walk to the old town n thoroughly enjoyed wandering. Tho I can't get used to speaking French again, and I must be careful with crossings - the Spanish are excellent at slowing to let you cross even before you're ready to... the French look the other way! A coffee today was €3 😱 - a far cry from 80¢ in Portugal! Lovely views from the citadel.

The field at Burguete-Auritz 








Apparently this is how you should store your hams
















Think that's a roof tent on top of the Land rover. I was surprised the front wheels stayed on the ground with all that weight hanging so far off the back 








Apparently there are lots of trout in the river but they were hiding























I could have spent the whole afternoon in this shop with the amazing smell of the spices! 








Another steep climb


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And a couple more. 

There were a few of these bits of stone in the walkway of the citadel walls, like roman encryptions. 








Glad I was going DOWN these steps!


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

¿Have you heard about the Piedra De San Martin and the tribute of the three cows Jean? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Tribute_of_the_Three_Cows

I hadn't till I saw a documentary about it on the telly here a while back. A great story of neighbourly co-operation dating back centuries and all done in the most fantastic setting.

I mention it because you aren't very far away from there now. It's a place we intend going to see in the spring.

Video, sorry no translation, but you'll probably get a lot of it anyway.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Sounds fascinating Alan! I love those wee historical bits. I wonder why, since it was between equals, that the gift was always from the same side?!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Had a very busy day today. Finally got round to pumping up my rear right tyre which has been softer than the rest for a while. It's a right palaver cos the wheel guards are held on with zip ties n the faffing with the TPMS cap takes time. Not to mention trying to get the wheel guard back on trying to thread the zip ties through holes you can't see n getting black soot everywhere - TG it doesn't have to be done very often! Then I stripped the bed, had a shower n hair wash, went to Lidl then got on the road for Labastide d'Armagnac, hoping to find somewhere to stop for lunch. 2hrs later I finally found somewhere! There was indeed the odd parking area but you never knew about it till you were past the entrance. Hilly, twisty n very green - that's the overall impression. I turned one corner n was faced with 25-30 huge birds on the wing. Maybe some of the smaller eagles cos they were quite low down. 

I knew Labastide d'Armagnac was familiar but I couldn't envisage it. My sister n I were here previously. They had a Fête d'Armagnac at the weekend so I think everyone must be sleeping it off as it's so quiet! Nice meadow parking at the bottom of the town. 

I'm hoping to meet up with Penquin tomorrow so did an LFT just to be safe - all good! 

I remember being down this way with the caravan many years ago. There's a town nearby called Condom and of course hubby n I enjoyed some childish humour about that! The kids were too young at the time to share 😉😂


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

As I recall the tribute was for sharing a water source with the French (I think) who had none on their side.

I think I'm wrong about that. I'll see what I can discover, you've got me interested. I assume I did know and have forgotten.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

erneboy said:


> I assume I did know and have forgotten.


Story of my life!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Some pics of Labastide


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Just thought you might like to read this Jean.............

Why You Should Walk The Camino de Finisterre and Muxia - Camino Português (juliedawnfox.com) 

Ray.


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Very pleased to report that Jean arrived safely and we have enjoyed a lovely evening in her company, she is an absolute delight to have as a visitor and we will be sad to see her depart.

I know she is visiting Ray next week and wish her well for her travels.

We hope that she will come back soon - there will always be a place for such a lovely person.

Dave and Lesley


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

raynipper said:


> Just thought you might like to read this Jean.............
> 
> Why You Should Walk The Camino de Finisterre and Muxia - Camino Português (juliedawnfox.com)
> 
> Ray.


Thanks Ray, will have a look later. 


Penquin said:


> there will always be a place for such a lovely person.


😂😂 You forgot to give me your bank account details before I left Dave!! 

As reported, I had a really lovely afternoon/evening with Dave n Lesley - such welcoming hosts, despite the fact they were only just back from a UK trip n must have been shattered. They've had a tough year, as detailed by Dave on here, so it was really nice to see them again and looking so well and in such good form. 

I left them today to come to Ribérac. Fields of what may have been cabbage but with a very sparse crop of sunflowers - I wonder were they just rogue seedlings? But there were an awful lot of them! But it was so nice to see the yellow of the sunflower again. Usually by the time I'm over in September they're black n grizzled. We'd russet oaks yesterday, today there was a fabulous red but I've no idea what tree it was.

I stopped at the aire south of Ribérac n dropped the grey water then parked up. But it was quite a distance to walk, on the main road, and with rain threatening so I looked at Google maps n found a large car park very near the TO. So that's where I am. The TO had a walk for the town which is always a bonus cos you get to see the main things that you'd probably miss if you were just walking aimlessly. And you get information. There were loads of buildings with tarpaulins on the roof - I thought maybe a local roofer had offered a job lot! But when I saw a number of cars with rear windows smashed n huge dents in the bodywork I knew it must've been a really bad hailstorm. It was nearly cold enough for gloves!

So onwards n northwards.... I thought I might have caught up with Woody from Owners but she's about 7hrs North of me! I'm settled on c. 1.5hrs per day n that should get me to Ray's next Tue🤞








The local masonic hall








They got hit hard here during the was. Not sure if these were Maquis 








The unusual-looking church, unfortunately closed








Tarpaulins everywhere








Smashed rear window, multi-cracked windscreen and all horizontal and vertical surfaces pockmarked


----------



## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Could this be the trees you saw Jean? They are very red in autumn, we had one in England, loved it in Autumn 









Rhus typhina (Staghorn Sumac)


Prized for its spectacular fall foliage and showy fruits, Rhus typhina (Staghorn Sumac) is a large suckering deciduous shrub or small tree with picturesque branches and velvety reddish-brown branchlets. The foliage of large, pinnate, bright-green leaves, 24 in. long (60 cm), turns striking...




www.gardenia.net


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

No Jan, it was something with a big broad leaf. And a hefty tree.


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

The cabbage like plants will be ploughed in very soon, they are a green manure crop - the second crop after winter wheat. The sunflowers are left from last year and have grown when water has permitted - a sign of the lengthy, severe drought Aquitaine is still experiencing and has for more than 18 months.

We saw the destruction of roofs when we drove through on 19th October, did not see cars as we were busy looking at roofs - literally dozens in small town.

Glad you enjoyed the stop - as I said to you, there is a great patisserie/ boulangerie as you leave the town towards ANGOULEME. We stop often for croissants etc., for breakfast en route.

Drive safely, enjoy the trip, the roads from there to Cherbourg are good IMO, quite. A lot of dual carriageway with a couple of excellent, wooded parking areas.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Penquin said:


> the roads from there to Cherbourg are good IMO,


😂 I had another day of my 2 satnavs arguing but since Google maps had mentioned 'taking into account a road closure' and TT hasn't been updated since I left home, I thought I'd better go with Google. TT obviously doesn't like 'shared space' roads where there *is* enough space to pass but you need to do so with care if it's something other than a car. The problem was that in trying to get me off those roads she wanted to take me down some *very* narrow single-track roads. Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed the drive. And yes, TT would have just ploughed through the diversion!

Before I left I discovered they'd a typical French market in Ribérac - all the lovely fruit n veg, cheeses, honeys, wine, fish.... The wee old lady serving me veg coughed into her hand before handing me my change... I think touching coinage is possibly how I got covid last time so everything got well sanitised! I noticed quite a few folk speaking English - perhaps it's a well-settled area.

I did see the patisserie you spoke of Dave but I was negotiating a tractor and there was little parking. Next time!

I'm in Vivonne tonight. 1st time hubby n I stayed here we got boxed in by the market next day. When I was out this afternoon the police had obviously been round setting up No Parking signs around the car park but there was none actually near me so I'm hoping that means I'm OK to stay rather than that they ran out of signs. 

And winter is officially here - I've just turned on the heating and set it for the morning!


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

We have pics of Brantome falls and market Jean. We were taken there by our Mairie secretary. We have kept in touch ever since.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Brantôme is lovely!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And am I glad I set the heating for this morning! It was 5° apparently, but not in the van! 

Had a nice wander through the market and a café to watch the world go by. Got a half spit-roast chicken - one of the few things that tastes as good as it smells! By the time I'd had some for lunch there was enough space for me to leave. Called by SuperU to fill up with diesel (€1.814 but no apparent rebate per the Govt; have they stopped that?) then headed up to Angers. We've spent a lot of time over the years in this central belt of France n can't believe I haven't been in Angers before. There's some smashing architecture but it got too dark to see so I'll have another look tomorrow, as well as the castle which the TO said was free tomorrow (1st Sunday of the month). 

Yesterday I saw my milometer click to 55555 (km, that is). 

The aire is behind a gate n you have to phone the TO to get a code. But my phone wouldn't connect so I used the intercom. He told me to phone the TO and didn't seem able to hear me explaining I already had tried and he ended the conversation. However, next time he got the message and I got the code. The aire is open to MHs, buses, lorries. There's a busy road nearby but the earplug will do the trick. 

It was a lovely drive up. Coming from NI I'm always wowed by the huge vistas in this part of France - they just seem to go on forever. But when you do hit a hilly bit there's a different scene when you top each hill. It makes the drive so interesting.


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

I think the rebate is still being applied to fuel Jean. It's just as the world problems have increased the price by the same amount. Odd that.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

When I was in Spain the advertised price was not what you paid - you were given (I think 20%) discount on your bill. But the superU advertised price was what I paid. Is that how France is doing it?


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Angers is a VERY beautigful city and well worth visiting, did not know about the aire needing a code, or the castle being free on Sundays - I expected it to be shut like so many other places out of High Season.

Glad you managed to get the code, stupid question did you put +33 first and then knock off the 0 ? That is a very common mistake that people make using a “foreign” mobile and forgetting they need the Country Code first as their phone still assumes it’s at home…. ?


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Penquin said:


> did you put +33 first and then knock off the 0 ?


Silly me, no I didn't! But I discovered I didn't need the code to get out of either the pedestrian or the vehicle gate, only to get in. And I needed a different code for today. 

The château is only free the 1st Sunday of the month. I'd a lovely morning there then decided I probably didn't have the stamina to pick up yesterday's town walk where I left off so that's an excuse to go back! The weather wasn't great, rain most of the time but it was reasonably light. 

I came on up to Laval after lunch. Long, long poker-straight roads. The last couple of mpg calculations have been just above the 30mpg mark so I'm quite pleased with that. I've seen the odd smaller bird of prey recently but I'm missing my eagles. But I'd a smashing show over the bridge in Laval from a massive murmur of starlings. 

Angers - (quite a lot of the commentary on the château audioguide was done by an American who insisted on pronouncing Angers as what someone does to you when they p* you off. Wouldn't you think he'd have done his homework first?) 

The rather forbidding exterior of the château gives way to some very attractive buildings - the gateway between the functional part and the Counts of Anjou's private Palace and grounds:








The Palace and Chapel 














View from the battlements








Welcome! 

















Very fine gardens; and over the wall an antique fair, just proving that one man's rubbish is another's treasure 








The rider on the front horse is apparently Bolingbroke, the very embodiment of the Apocalypse to the French (the tapestry was commissioned in the middle of the 100 years' war with the English. It's an amazing piece of art. But such things went out of fashion and when the Church failed to find a buyer for it in the 18th or 19th century it ended up as protection for floors, and as horse blankets!


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And Laval -


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

Wow Jean you do get into some places.

Ray.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

And I'm now in St Hilaire du Harcouët, parked beside a river n a couple of lakes. Had some problem finding the place as there's a fair in town and also a display of umpteen varieties of agricultural machinery along the roads. I think the fair is also on tonight (no sign of the folk packing up anyway) so could be noisy! It might be more than 1 fairground lot on show as they've got 2 sets of dodgem cars. And dozens of caravans.

I was watching a wagtail having a bath in the river - at least I thought it was a wagtail but it was very yellow underneath. So I googled France yellow wagtail and there it is... But it's called a grey wagtail..??? Very showy. Its bum was the brightest 😂







































Why can't we harness some of this power? 






















I should be with you sometime after lunch Ray. No worries if you're not in, I know where to go!


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

We will be awaiting with open arms Jean. But windy tonight and the gate is wide open.
Prue will be doing dinner. xx

Oh yes if the fair is on tonight it could be noisy. 

Ray.


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

If only I had known about your route via Riberac, Jean. Our home is less than half an hour west of there, near Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. Yes the hailstorm tornado in June caused millions of damage - agriculture and natural vegetation, cars, roofs. My friends in St Aulaye (nearby town) had their solar panels shattered, as well as their Velux windows. The entire garden shredded and shards of blue glass everywhere. They report insurance companies not paying out, hoping government puts its hand in its pocket. In any case there arent stocks of windscreens and not enough tradesmen to repair the roof damage, so tarps in evidence everywhere. Jean would only have seen a smattering as the storm -strormed down the Dronne valley.


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

If only I had known about your route via Riberac, Jean. Our home is less than half an hour west of there, near Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. Yes the hailstorm tornado in June caused millions of damage - agriculture and natural vegetation, cars, roofs. My friends in St Aulaye (nearby town) had their solar panels shattered, as well as their Velux windows. The entire garden shredded and shards of blue glass everywhere. They report insurance companies not paying out, hoping government puts its hand in its pocket. In any case there arent stocks of windscreens and not enough tradesmen to repair the roof damage, so tarps in evidence everywhere. Jean would only have seen a smattering as the storm -strormed down the Dronne valley.


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Sorry for dup - lost the edit button and sadly my internet wobbling today and going pensioner speed. Will have to go to Riberac tomorrow my booze is finished except for the Aperol and wine stocks. I shop at E.Leclerc there its just the right size supermarket. I also need ingredients for my new Moulinex soup maker. Good way to get veg input. I can make a batch and freeze otherwise buying a selection to eat 'neat' inevitably ends in waste.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

That's a shame Viv! Would have loved to put a face to the name! 

I had a super time with Ray n Prue yesterday and we talked both hind legs off the proverbial donkey!! I don't think we quite put the world to rights but there's always the next time. I usually have a 'last meal' in Cherbourg at lunch time but I'm still bung fu'! I usually manage once, sometimes twice on a trip to call here and it's a great book ending to my trips. Thanks to you both. 

And the sun is out this morning, the wind - which was noticeable yesterday as I was driving - seems to have abated so I'm praying for continued calm this afternoon and overnight till I'm decanted in Dublin. 

It's been a very interesting and most enjoyable trip. 

Here's to more!

Sometimes I see deer in the corner of the field but not today.


----------



## Webby1 (Mar 11, 2012)

Thanks for your trip report and great photos.There are certainly some new places to add to the list for the future.
It always helps to read others experiences and I did feel I should also write some trip reviews that might be helpful to others.
I got as far as "It was nice today and the sun was shining" and decided it was not for me.
Thanks to all those who carry on writing.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Picked up gas n diesel on the way north, parked at the small boats harbour and yes, I did manage an omelette! But my goodness, €15 for omelette n coffee! But it was lovely sitting in a tented area with a view of all the small boats. 

We should have set sail 15mins ago n we're still waiting in line to board. Some cars have gone on, but lots of vehicles still waiting. Ah well, I don't think they'll be late arriving in Dublin. 

Thanks for the company on the trip to those who have followed.


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

We were more than an hour late in leaving. There was an awful lot of faffing about in front of me tho I was only 3rd in line to enter deck 5 which seems to have an open front end. Then they pulled cars past us n they were dancing about, forwards, backwards, all the time engines running. 

IF are very mean with their data - I think that's new. You get 20mins for free then you have to pay. I did without (I'm a Scot!) When I went down with Brittany Ferries they had 30mins free before they cut the connection but you could just keep on taking a further 30mins.

I'd a shower last night in case this morning was rough and it was a wise decision. It wasn't very rough but enough to lose your balance occasionally. But the rough stuff was mainly when we were in bed. 

And again their food is the cold side of just lukewarm but there's no point in complaining cos you just get told that shouldn't happen, there are systems in place... I did get half-decent toast tho - normally there's no difference at all in the colour but I got her to do it again. 

I passed on dinner last night, wasn't 100% sure it would stay down! But later I had a couple of Prue's lovely buns! 

I must've looked shifty cos I got pulled over for a customs check under sections 26, 27 of the 2014 act'. I'd no idea what he was talking about but they took my passport away, brought it back n didn't ask to see anything in the MH. 🤷

I was home within 2.5hrs - I forget how good that road is now. Sometimes I would stop on the way but I just cruised along at 103kph mostly - I normally restrict myself to 90 even on motorway but I guess I just wanted to get home. 

So there we are. I will empty the MH over the next few days. Time to wade thro the post! 

Leaving Cherbourg


----------



## raynipper (Aug 4, 2008)

We are happy you made it unscathed Jean. Happy Christmas and New Year.

Ray & Prue. xxx


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Glad to hear you are home, for now, how long until your next trip ? I wonder……

Who knows why they stopped you, they are a rule unto themselves at times, and trying to find out is a superb lesson in obfuscation ! (That’s a good word for a Thursday afternoon as the gloom descends)1.

Have a good Christmas and New Year, we will look forward to seeing you as soon as you wish !


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Crikey, I'm not even thinking Christmas yet but I bet it'll be here soon! 

My usual timing away is mid-March to 1st week in June or so. The idea of Scandinavia has come back into my mind.... There again, the idea of Morocco is quite attractive too tho I can't really see that happening.


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Happy to hear you're safe home. Next year in Jerusalem! ( it's a proverb not a travel plan!)


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

HermanHymer said:


> it's a proverb not a travel plan!


Could be both Viv!


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Long way to drive the MH Jean….


----------



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I guess.... But it would certainly be different!


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

True, but some rather unpleasant terrain between you and Israel…. I doubt your insurance would cover such a trip…..


----------



## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Sandra would have something interesting to offer, but a very very long time since she set off on such an adventure with her young family.


----------

