# hymer gas



## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

Just imported an old hymer (1989) it has a truma gas system 
set it up with a basic hose system but not getting any gas flow to the cooker
(switched it on inside)..
Any suggestions..


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## 88966 (May 11, 2005)

Hi Shazbaa,

Let me be the first to welcome you to the site.

You haven't given away too much information, what do you mean by set it up with a basic hose system.

Is it properly connected with a regulator at the apprpriate pressure?

Are there any other gas taps, on the manifold in a cupboard, not turned on?

A little more info. I am sure would help.

BillD


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## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

BillD,

Thanks for the welcome!!

I have to go through the painful novice stage with the Hymer as my old VW camper from 10 years ago needed no instructions..

Here is a bit more information..

I replaced the truma gas hose threaded connector with an adaptor that takes a push fit hose and jubilee clips. On the other end is a standard 30 mBar regulator attached to my propane cylinder.

The regulator I took off was 50 mBar but Truma said the flow should still be ok, just slower.

I turned on the gas cylinder and the 4 gas taps inside one of the cupboards
and tried the cooker but got no gas flow

I have just ordered a propane adaptor from truma which will allow me to use the old 50 mBar Truma regulator to be sure the regulator pressure isn't the problem and because I felt that the truma threaded connectors were better than jubilee clips

Any thoughts?

Shazbaa


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## captainking (Jun 16, 2005)

Hi we bought a 95 Hymer last month........have you got gas to everything except the hob? have you got the taps that are in the cupboard under the sink or next to it?

Regards
Captainking


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## 88966 (May 11, 2005)

Hi,
I have some but don't want to go off half-cocked, one certainly involves the regulator. When your new one arrives try it again and let us know.
The other thought, and it is always worth checking, is to make sure you don't have any leaks or pipes off.
A further long shot, but I have known it happen, is to check your regulator and somewhere there is a small hole to atmosphere - make sure this isn't blocked.
BillD


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi Shazbaa
Welcome to the site and Hymers. We have a 1989 S660 and on my set up there is a shut off valve in the gas bottle locker between the two bottles. I am using 50mBar regulators and there is also a change over valve to switch between bottles. Have you checked if you have these and if so are they in the right position, of course none of this applies if you are getting gas to the heater, fridge, boiler and hob.
Just a thought, was the gas working before you changed the regulator and pipework? Why did you change the regulator anyway????
Let us have more info.
Keith


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## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

This was all really useful and constructive advice.
I checked the pipework for extra shut offs - none/ and then re attached all the connectors and just let it run for a while and this did the trick

Leaving the hob going for a while got the gas to the heater which also fired up nicely.

I just need to get the fridge going and try out the boiler..
Fridge doesn't seem to have battery power to it..

Can anyone tell me..

1. Is it the same igniter switch for the hob and fridge
if so I need to replace this as the hob isn't sparking

2. Should the fridge work off the leisure battery ?

3. Does the water boiler run off the gas heater or does this need fired up as well ?

Regards,
Mike


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## 88966 (May 11, 2005)

Hi Mike,

The answers to your questions are:

1. No

2. No

3 Don't know. On my Truma heater the gas water heating and the hot air are provided from the same burner - I am afraid I don't know what you have got. It should be fairly obvious though, have you got 2 sparate units?

BillD


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## crissy (May 15, 2005)

Hi Mike, your van may be similar to ours ('94 S560). The heating is separate from the hot water. We have two controls on the wall - one for the hot water, on / off and temperature, and the other for the variable fan for the heating. 
You could contact Hymer in Germany and ask if they have an English copy of the handbook (they provided me with one very quickly).
Chris


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## captainking (Jun 16, 2005)

Hi I don't know if it is any help but I have all the manuals for the truma heating/and water heating.

covers model no's
trumatic 2800 + 4000 heating

heater S3002k

truma boiler covers various models

all inc diagrams all above are multilingual inc uk

I have manual for hymer controls but in german but easy to decypher

Regards
Captainking


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## 89213 (May 16, 2005)

Glad you sorted out your cooker, although I'm surprised that Truma said your setup will work OK at the lower pressure, they told me I would have to re-jet the heater if I used other than 50 Mbs.
John


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## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

I now have a working cooker, fridge and a heater, thanks for the advice!

The boiler ignition is clicking (thanks for the boiler advice Chris) but not lighting
I took the flue cover off, switched the gas on but I am getting the red light every time, are there any tricks I should know ?


Regards,
Mike


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## captainking (Jun 16, 2005)

make sure you don't have a air lock in the boiler! run some water throught it also when lighting turn heat control to full......to make sure presure is ok turn every thing off and try again....check you have gas to the boiler...it will show red if there is no gas!

Regards

Captainking


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi
Have you checked for a gas shut off valve in the vicinity of the boiler? Also as previously stated I don't think it will light if it thinks it is empty, so run hot tap for a while, you may see air coming through causing it to spit, then when it runs normally switch off the tap and try relighting the boiler. I would try turning the temperature dial up to max then switching the switch on.
Good luck
Keith


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## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

No joy yet..

On my van, hot and cold is the same tap, you just turn further for hot
I wonder if the boiler could actually be empty

The ignition clicks away merrily, but has anyone had to take theirs apart
to check for a spark..

Any ideas welcome, otherwise we are off anyway on Monday and
it will be bracing cold showers all the way!!

Regards,
Mike


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## captainking (Jun 16, 2005)

Hi you should find a drain tap near the boiler wich will drain outside the bottom of m/h near the boiler just a bit of pipe protruding.....this is also for winter draining.

Regards

Captainking


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## 88966 (May 11, 2005)

Hi Mike,

Although it is the same tap, the hot water comes through a separate pipe system from the boiler. As Keith suggests turn to full hot and run the tap for a while and make sure that all the air bubbles and splutterings have gone.

While you are running the pump make sure nothing is coming out of the drain down / frost pipe under the van.

BillD


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## shazbaa (May 14, 2005)

Phew, fixed it!! for what it is worth, this is what I have learned..

The water heater is like a camping gas stove with a kettle on top. The circuit board controls two electrodes which create a spark, an electromagnet (solenoid) which opens the gas valve to the burner and a burner a flame sensor. If you switch on and don't hear a loud clunk, that means that the gas valve to the burner hasn't opened. The sparking will still continue. There is no water level detector, just a temperature gauge attached to the kettle.

To take the water heater out, you have to unscrew the outside vent 8 big screws and 2 little screws and 2 centre bolts. Disconnect the gas tap and undo the hot and cold water pipe jubilee clips. Also unscrew the water heater from the floor. There is a pipe from the hot air blower in the way of getting to the gas tap. This has an awkward metal clip to undo.

There should be enough wire to lift the water heater out still connected.

The electromagnet is a small rectangular box on the back at the bottom beside the outside vent. Undo the single bolt and it slides from its housing. To check that this is working, use a nail or screw, something which sticks to a magnet and switch on the water heater for a few seconds, is should be obvious if the magnet is working.

If not check the wires on the circuit board. This is held at the top of the water heater in a triangular box secured with 2 screws. There are 3 wires leading to the electromagnet, black, green and red. There should be 32 ohms resistance between the black and green wires and 32 ohms resistance between the red and green wires.

When you switch on there should be 12volts between the green and red wires and 12 volts between the green and black wires. This can be checked using a meter on the contact points on the circuit board.
If this isn't happening then it may well be the circuit board which is at fault.

If all the electrics are ok, then the gas valve might be stuck. This is a sealed unit, although tapping it lightly might fix it.

Truma have a schematic naming and showing all of the components on their website http://www.trumauk.com/

I was lucky to get an old spare valve but if anyone has a good source, then let me know!!


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Well done Mike
Perseverance always pays off.
Nice report too....
Keith


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