# Water heater problems !



## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Having problems with my Atwood (spelling ?) water heater
Unable to light it with the auto ignition , can here it clicking but refuses to light....can manually light it by putting a flame into it (not very clever , i know ) all is well.... but after a few minutes the thing goes out !

Was ok last November when used last...........anybody had similar problems ? :? 

Cheers Mark


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

No info on your model, but one cause is a defective flame failure / thermostat
I had similar problems with the instant water heater in my old van - cured by fitting a new 'generic' thermostat - hopefully someone else will be abvle to offer more specific help.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi Mark 

I had exactly the same problem with my fridge, the gas igniter/ flame monitor module wasn't working. 
I checked and found the water heater had the exact same module, swapping them over proved my point. 
I took the module home, placed it on top of the lounge radiator for a few days to remove any dampness. 
Replaced it and it worked fine..


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## Snelly (Aug 20, 2005)

Hey up Mark

I had a similar problem with my Truma water heater this w'end... but it was self inflicted. When I jet washed the mh on Friday, I didn't put the cover on the heater exhaust and promply went on to wash the mh really really well. Net result... water heater now full of water and gas burner swimming... thank goodness for the old whistling kettle!

Good luck with yours, sorry I couldn't suggest anything constructive... but that just about sums me up. :roll:


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Jim the module.....would that be accessable from outside ?

Whats it look like ?

Cheers Mark


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi Mark 

You should see it easily from the outside, it's a black box about 4 x 2 x 1 inch with a 6 way edge connector plug and a single wire which goes to the ignitor. 

Strangely enough, like you it was last Nov when I last used the fridge on gas, then in Jan just before the Peterborough meet when I was checking things that it wouldn't ignite. 
Like you I lit it manually but it wouldn't stay on.. 
You could also check the edge connector and the single wire for oxydisation. 
Dampness is the most likely problem..


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

8O Damp sure is the major cause of most problems with the Hot Water Heater, Furnace and Fridge/Freezer. You would do well to take a look at this to solve most problems:- >> Refrigerator << >> Furnace << 
Most things working with Control boards and LPG work in a similar way. JAT. :wink:


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Handy sites John .. cheers


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

ScotJimland said:


> Handy sites John .. cheers


  There can't be many left I haven't given you. :lol:


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Thanks Jim for that........keep me busy this weekend

Cheers John very useful information supplied


Mark :lol:


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Hi folks,
If a gas appliance won't remain lit, (even when manually ignited), it usually indicates a faulty Thermo Coupling. This coupling has a fine capillary tube that sends a signal back to the gas valve (when it is warmed by the pilot light), which in turn opens the same valve. 

An annual replacement on most domestic appliances, according to a Corgi registered engineer. We have had several go over the years, but not in a leisure gas appliance......yet, touch wood. 

Just a thought.

Jock.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi Jock

I agree about the thermocouple being an obvious suspect and annual changing isn't a bad idea, however in my case it turned out to be dampness in the electronic control unit.


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## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi Mark
Any joy with that water heater yet? Did you take the module out and dry it yet?
Let us know mate.....

Keith


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Kieth last minute change of plans ended up going away again ( 2 weekends in a row :lol: ) with friends.

Took the module off that Jim described .....it,s sitting on my radiator hopefully drying......, there is some signs of distortion to the module caused i presume by overheating , so will have to wait and see if it will work.

Like Jim said hopefully my fridge module will be the same as the water heater......... i can swop them over , mainly use the fridge on electric 


Cheers Mark


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## billym (Dec 17, 2005)

We got off the ferry late the other day parked up in the coldest windiest place in France and the blown air heating packed up. The ignition would not spark. After a couple of days messing with it, ( I,m not very technically minded ) I reverted to my cure for everything .... WD 40 ...... LASHINGS OF IT ......... Voila Warm Again but still wet


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Well Done mate.. ' When in doubt, get the WD40 out ' dampness no doubt .. 
Hope the weather improves.. :roll:


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Hi Jim,
are these damp module problems unique to ARV's, or a particular model of water heater? 

In all our caravans and now Hymer MH, we have'nt had any damp problems with the heating nor the hot water. Have to say, that this Truma Combi system and the Truma E heater (cab), is the best we have had so far.
J & R.


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

JockandRita said:


> Hi Jim,
> are these damp module problems unique to ARV's, or a particular model of water heater?


  It is unfortunatley a fault of the design. I should just point out that WD40 is very good on occasion. However. If it doesn't cure the problem of damp. It MAY make the problem worse. Just an observation. Been there.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi Jock 

I agree with JSW on both points, RV water heater electrics are prone to getting damp due to the location, Truma and Carver electronics are inside the van and close the the heater ( nice and warm) whereas RVs are just behind a ventilated panel on the side of the vehicle, fine if you live in Florida or California. 

WD40 worked for me at first but in the end I had to remove the control box and dry it at home.


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Och aye, 
Noo, ah kin understond why it wasnea likely tae be yer wee thermo couplin, lol. :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Had me worried there for a wee while. 8O 
Jock.


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## zaskar (Jun 6, 2005)

Replace the boards with those made by Dinosuar Electrics.
They're much cheaper and of much better/reliable quality than the original boards.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

zaskar said:


> Replace the boards with those made by Dinosuar Electrics.
> They're much cheaper and of much better/reliable quality than the original boards.


Hi Zaskar .. do you have a link to a supplier ?

Cheers

Edit .. Found a link to a US Supplier

http://www.marksrv.com/swwaterheater.htm#uibs


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## LC1962 (Oct 6, 2005)

Hi Jim
Complete boards are easy to obtain unlike the individual components on them... 8) .


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

LC1962 said:


> Hi Jim
> Complete boards are easy to obtain unlike the individual components on them... 8) .


 8O Sorry *LC1962*. Depends what components you are referring to. I had a board for my Furnace rebuilt by my local Electronics Engineer. Cost me a fortune. £25 inclusive. :wink:


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## LC1962 (Oct 6, 2005)

Hi JSW...said component being the module Jim hung out to dry on his radiator.
£25 for a rebuild?? 8O 8O better give us the name of your local bloke as the part manufacturer and appliance companies in the USA were as much use as a chocolate teapot when we were trying to obtain a new one :roll:


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

I think we are getting our wires crossed here :? 

Module , Board, same difference.. 

Individual components would be difficult to change if not impossible, ..the 'module' or 'board' on mine is encapsulated in resin ..which I think is porus allowing moisture to get in. Hence the success with heating it up.


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

8) That's quite correct. Module/Board are one and the same thing. Perhaps you are not aware that the Module/Board is the same for all appliances (except of course the 2 different types of spark). There is a jumper that is disconnected for use with other than the Furnace. :wink:


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

johnsandywhite said:


> Perhaps you are not aware that the Module/Board is the same for all appliances (except of course the 2 different types of spark). There is a jumper that is disconnected for use with the Furnace. :wink:


Yip, I was aware, it was the fridge that I had the problem with, I exchanged boards with the furnace to eliminate the problem but I'm not aware of any jumper :? :? the only jumper I had was on my back .. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

So by swapping my fridge module over with my faulty (still sitting on the radiator ) one.......... my water heater will be ok and if the module is still no good after drying out this will not affect the fridge on 110v.

Cheers Mark


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## LC1962 (Oct 6, 2005)

Now I am confused....
The module I understood was as pic 2, ...the curcuit board UIBS (or UIBL) pic 1.
Having never dismembered a fridge, this is all new territory for me .


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

ATWOOD HOT WATER HEATER BOARD KIT Item number: 4614995531 


Found this one in the us ........ this is the one i am having the problems with


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

qe2 said:


> So by swapping my fridge module over with my faulty (still sitting on the radiator ) one.......... my water heater will be ok and if the module is still no good after drying out this will not affect the fridge on 110v.
> 
> Cheers Mark


Correct, if your modules are both the same


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

8O Dinasour replace several boards with one Universal Board:-

Universal Ignitor Boards are for use in Furnaces, Refrigerators & Water Heaters. 

The board comes ready for use in Furnaces 
or a jumper on the board can be cut to 
make the board instant fire for use in
Refrigerators or Water heaters


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Hi JSW

Great idea but it's going to need prtecting from moisture don't you think ?


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

ScotJimland said:


> Hi JSW
> 
> Great idea but it's going to need prtecting from moisture don't you think ?


 8) Covers are available if required. :wink: :lol:

A clear cover is available and recommended 
for use in Refrigerators and Water Heaters.
It allows you to see the LED on the board 
and helps make diagnosing problems easier


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

johnsandywhite said:


> ScotJimland said:
> 
> 
> > Hi JSW
> ...


Just testing :wink:


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## johnsandywhite (May 9, 2005)

ScotJimland said:


> Just testing :wink:


 8) Thought you might be. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Update.............. After leaving the module on the radiator for a week put it back on the rv...... And ?

Unfortunatly the thing would,nt light itself , so manually lit it again and stopped on for a hour so i drained some water off (hot ) and manually relit it again.....this time it kept going straight out ?

Might possibly be a thermostat problem ! Or could still be the module or something completely different 

Well thats as far as i can go with this... 

Does anyone know of anybody / company who would be able to check the Atwood and find the exact fault and quote for repair

Did notice a big brass fitting was weeping......?

Thanx Mark


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## zaskar (Jun 6, 2005)

With the Atood heater, I suspect the only thing which will cause the symptoms you describe is a tired/faulty circuit board. I base this on a similar experience. Any of the UK RV dealers will be able to supply a new board and most have them in stock. I got mine from Freedom for a competetive price. They stock copy boards made by Dinosaur which according to RVAMERICA are better quality and more reliable than original fit. You COULD import one yourself, but it's not always worth it on single items by the time you add shipping, VAT and import tax.

The large brass fitting is the system pressure relief valve which is neccessary to relieve water expansion in a closed system. If it didn't weep, the system COULD go VERY BANG! You should manually open the little lever on this valve a couple of times a year to ensure it opens properly, though obviously this should only be done when the boiler is cold.

If you get excessive amounts of water dripping, it could be that the expansion space in the boiler has seeped through the system to the taps and should be replaced. All you're doing is putting air into the top 1/3rd of the boiler to allow for water expansion when the water heats up.
1/ Turn off the water pump or external supply.
2/ Open ALL taps & shower.
3/ Manually open relief valve on boiler and leave open until dripping stops.
4/ Close valve and all taps.
5/ Turn pump back on and allow to run until the water refills the boiler to the point where the air gap is compressed, the system pressure builds up and the pump automatically stops. 

This operation MIGHT have to be repeated 2 or 3 times a year depending on how much use the boiler gets.

H.T.H

Zaskar.


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

Zasker thanks .....useful information will see about replacing the board and then doing as you sugest ...... cheers mark


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## CLS (Jul 25, 2005)

ALL DONE !

Bought a second hand board from ebay usa......£20.00 incl. p&p
Fired up first press of the button
Big thanx for all the advice from everyone :lol: 

Now on to the next job


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