# Outer Hebrides next week - any tips?



## ramblefrog (Jun 28, 2010)

Morning -heading north from Sussex next week for 2 weeks. Go to Scotland ( lived there for 14 years) but never been to the Outer Hebrides. Ferry from Ullapool to Lewis - then travelling down through Harris, Uist and Barra - then back to Oban and home. 
Apart from taking all weather gear have any of you well travelled people any "Must do" or "must see" places?
Also any wildcamping hotspots?
Thanks


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

Must see - the planes land at Barra Airport it's also worth going in to see if you can do the Barra - Benbecula - Barra flight if they have seat(s) available.

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/barra/loganair/

I think the route is now operated by Flybe.

If seats are available they used to sell the Barra - Benbecula - Barra flights for about £30 and if you can get space it's the only chance you'll get to fly on a scheduled flight with the pilots giving you a commentary on the flight through an open cabin door. 
Selling that flight helps keep the service open for those who need it. 
It's the only place in the world where a scheduled flight lands on and takes off from a beach.

You used to be able to wildcamp at the dunes by the airport but it's banned now as too many just weren't careful of the damage they caused.


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## Pat-H (Oct 30, 2009)

Camped on Barra some years back (folding camper) nightmare.
There are no trees or midges on Barra for a very good reason. The wind never stops!
The beach airport is a sight to behold.
It's a lovely island but it doesn't take long to have explored it...
I think the ferry was one of the most expensive on the face of the earth. Car and folding camper made a combined long length and boy did each foot add up in cost.
Enjoy.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Stanner said:


> Must see - the planes land at Barra Airport it's also worth going in to see if you can do the Barra - Benbecula - Barra flight if they have seat(s) available.
> 
> http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/barra/loganair/
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link 

Click on the aviation tab on the link, and then sections of the map top right D


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Been to all the small isles Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna, the whole of the outer Hebrides out to St Kilda, done Mull and stayed in Tobermory, got well drunk in the Mishnish pub at the side of the harbour many times, it opens at 5 am for the fisherman..

But I have never been actually "on" them as we were always on board a dive boat at the time, been doing this for the last 40 years, I even did the Isle of Skye for years and never went passed the harbour there, that is until I took the grandkids up four years ago and we went round Skye in the van...

Must do a land based tour where we can actually get off on any of the islands, I must have spent months on the water and under it over the years and that was spectacular enough, loved watching the heathers change colour with the seasons, and the snow falling all around during the winter but the sea a very reasonable temperature as the Gulf Stream hits this part of Scotland, that's why the West side weather is always better than the East!.. The run up to Oban was always a get there as fast as you can convoy with my dive mates, a more steady approach in the van would be nice me thinks!.

Let us know how you get on, especially with the Cal Mac's for getting on and off on the small islands..

ray.


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

Ohh and buy a Calmac "Hopscotch" ticket much cheaper than buying as you go.
Can't add link so you'll have to Google it.


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## ramblefrog (Jun 28, 2010)

Hi - thanks for all the info. We have bought hopscotch no 8 - this cost us £269.20 and includes the van, 2 adults and 4 ferry journeys which I thought was pretty reasonable.
We have travelled a fair bit in Scotland (last year Skye and other parts of mainland in the Highlands) - combination of sites but mainly wild camping. The scenery is stunning, the food good and the weather "interesting". The staff manning the CalMac phones were very helpful in giving advice - suggesting to keep cost down if we put bikes in van for ferry journey this would put us in a lower price bracket - this is not a problem for us to do. we hope to see otters, sea eagles, golden eagles and plenty of other flora and fauna. Not sure about internet access - will take mifi and see how it goes so will, if possible, keep you posted of our travels. Website below has some useful walks and has a fairly active forum to glean info. from.
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/outer-hebrides/lewis.shtml 
We hope to spend a couple of days on Barra so weather permitting we should see the planes land/take off on the beach.


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## NormanB (Sep 8, 2005)

I would recommend wildcamping next to the lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis for the cliffs, sea birds and general drama. Also on Lewis, I enjoyed the stone circles at Calanish and loved camping on the grass (_Machair_) by the beach at Cnip. Really beautiful.


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## shingi (Apr 18, 2008)

Travel down to Vatarsay from Barra where you can wild camp by the village hall. I say wild camp but I think there is an honesty box asking for £4-ish. Lovely spot with stunning beach. There are sometimes cars parked up by dog walkers but they don't stay for long. Absolutely try for the flight up to Benbecula which we have done twice. If you are lucky enough to have sunshine it is stunning....just like flying over Carribean waters and beach and try to bags the back seats for better views out of the windows. Up the other end on Lewis Tumpian Head is good for wild camping and one of our favourite places we chanced across was at Hougharry on North Uist on the grass overlooking the bay. Stunning outlook although some enterprising chap has now opened up a small crofters field for a fiver a night where we stayed on our second visit last year. Berneray is also lovely but be mindful of where you wildcamp on this small area. There are signs telling you please not to park on the 'machair' which you must respect. We found a spot easily and a chap came round selling fish I remember which we bought and cooked. One of my abiding memories were the skylarks there when it was June. The OH is a wonderful place, have a great time.


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## ramblefrog (Jun 28, 2010)

Thanks Shingi - bringing the place alive for us. Really looking forward to our adventure.


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## forthpilot (Jul 7, 2012)

The restored village at Garenin ( An Geàrranan ) in Carloway, is well worth a visit on your way down the west side of Lewis.
Remember that all the Calmac terminals have toilet disposal facilities.

Stewart.


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

shingi said:


> One of my abiding memories were the skylarks there when it was June. The OH is a wonderful place, have a great time.


We parked by the ruined houses near Vatersay Hall to take pictures and the Skylarks were ALL we could hear - absolutely nothing else. No mowers, no sirens, no cats, no dogs, no kids, no traffic, no nothing.

Be ready for this approach to things like opening hours.

A view you don't get on many commercial flights these days.

House on Vatersay...........
......The builder says he'll be back to finish it next week.

Barra Airport...........


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

forthpilot said:


> The restored village at Garenin ( An Geàrranan ) in Carloway, is well worth a visit on your way down the west side of Lewis.
> Remember that all the Calmac terminals have toilet disposal facilities.
> 
> Stewart.


Now that's something I've never seen.


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## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Just decided, this will be the area of my hols in 2016. "Doing" Edinburgh and the Cairngorms with my Dutch friend, end May/beg June, staying in hotel/timeshare. So...

Can anyone suggest a (safe) place to store the motorhome for 10 days?

Then across to Lewis for a quilting jolly from 22 June (3 days) so thinking to go "round the top" as far as Ullapool and ferry across to Stornaway. Then a hopper ticket southwards, just exploring.

My motorhome is 6,3m long.

This thread is very helpful... and inspiring. Any more advice or caveats? Thanks in anticiopation!


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## Garcia (Mar 5, 2010)

Spent July and Aug on Harris Lewis and Skye this last summer, and, altho it was supposed to be summer, the temp. barely got to double figures for most of the stay. Not much cooler than that up there NOW.
The big weather prob is serious wind and horizontal rain!!!!Sundays are still weird on Lewis and Harris with little apart from the Chinese / Indian takeaway open. There are few pubs outside of Stornoway and Tarbert AT ALL !!. 
We wilded for a few days at the golf club in Stornoway (easy walk to supermarket and town) with no probs and no-one bothered us (good dog walking in the park and occasional live music in the club bar).
Things to see /do ......Tolsta beach, Port of Ness, Blackhouses, Calanish stones, Golden Eagle watching, Dolphin and Whale watching, Porpoises , Ann Lantair / Stornoway Arts Centre...superb exhibitions and live music, and good cafe, resto, bar.
Further south Luskentyre Beach, Horgabost Beach (and camp site ...no power), Uig Beach and the Chessmen story (campsites near here , tho no power), Loch Erisort Inn at Ballalan (half way from Stornoway to Tarbert, signed on the main road.) Nice resto and good Sunday dinner (one of the few pubs in the WHOLE ISLANDS open on a Sunday!!
Read the Peter May trilogy (Lewis Trilogy ) before you go or while you`re there. Take a look at his Photo commentary book with photos by David Wilson...(called HEBRIDES) brings the trilogy and island history to life!
Enjoy your trip, it`s a great place....now if they could only put it somewhere hot and sunny!!!


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## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Thank you Garcia, et al. Looks like I'll have to pull out my winter woolies! I'm praying for a heatwave, that should bring it up to at least 12 degrees!


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## Jamsieboy (Jan 14, 2011)

Listen up folks - it's Scotland AND Scotland on the Atlantic Coast - most likely wet, windy and cold BUT if the sun shines JEEZO


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## Garcia (Mar 5, 2010)

HermanHymer said:


> My motorhome is 6,3m long.
> 
> This thread is very helpful... and inspiring. Any more advice or caveats? Thanks in anticiopation!


One other thing about these islands.....apart from the main roads, the roads are largely SINGLE TRACK, tho with LOTS of passing places. Can be a bit scary at times , even with my tiny little Hymer !!


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## bb46 (Oct 26, 2008)

We did a similar trip 3 years ago but in summer. It was a fantastic trip and we wildcamped all over the place (where it was tolerated). We found a great spot on the west coast of Uist right by the beach and set up sideways to the sea to enjoy the views. We couldnt understand why other vehicles were parked 10-15 metres back facing the sea, until the weather deteriorated and the wind got up. If we hadnt moved pretty sharpish I think we may have been blown over. I have never experienced such strong winds. Even the birds were being blown backwards! Moral is - look for shelter if you can.


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