# Refrigerator on 12 volts not working.



## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

It hasn't been working on 12 volts for a long time so today since I was having some issues with the gas section we had the gas fixed and a look at the 12volt section. Turns out that the Schaudt electroblok is not switching on the 12v to the frig. 

I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and are there alternative solutions to sending it off to Schaudt to be fixed. The repairmen suggested we could hook it up directly with a relay and bypass the electroblok.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Does it not only switch the heavy feed onto the fridge if the engine is running?

Might be worth checking fuses as well.

Peter


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

jhelm said:


> It hasn't been working on 12 volts for a long time so today since I was having some issues with the gas section we had the gas fixed and a look at the 12volt section. Turns out that the Schaudt electroblok is not switching on the 12v to the frig.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and are there alternative solutions to sending it off to Schaudt to be fixed. The repairmen suggested we could hook it up directly with a relay and bypass the electroblok.


We often save people the cost of a replacement by removing the fridge load from the loom and simply connect an external 30 amp 12 DC automotive relay.

Much cheaper option

Eddie


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

eddievanbitz said:


> jhelm said:
> 
> 
> > It hasn't been working on 12 volts for a long time so today since I was having some issues with the gas section we had the gas fixed and a look at the 12volt section. Turns out that the Schaudt electroblok is not switching on the 12v to the frig.
> ...


This seems my best option, which I should be able to do myself. Can you tell me what the relay looks like, maybe a name so I can buy one in Italy.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

jhelm said:


> eddievanbitz said:
> 
> 
> > jhelm said:
> ...


Loads of variations on a theme but this is an example

Number 30. Load for fridge
Number 87. 12 VDC supply for fridge via a 25 amp in line fuse
Number 85. Negative
Number 86. +15 Ignition (normally a yellow on the ELectroblok but check)

Hope that this helps

Eddie


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## Easyriders (May 16, 2011)

Our fridge only works on 12v when the engine is on, and so has nothing to do with the Elektroblock. The Elektroblock deals with mains 240v and has a transformer for 12v to the leisure battery, but the 12v for the fridge comes from the engine, not the leisure battery.

I think this is the usual set up, so you may not have a problem at all! See if the fridge works on 12v with the engine running.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

Easyriders said:


> Our fridge only works on 12v when the engine is on, and so has nothing to do with the Elektroblock. The Elektroblock deals with mains 240v and has a transformer for 12v to the leisure battery, but the 12v for the fridge comes from the engine, not the leisure battery.
> 
> I think this is the usual set up, so you may not have a problem at all! See if the fridge works on 12v with the engine running.


All you 12 volts are connected to the "load" side of the electroblok. The "supply" is Engine 12 + DC Leisure 12 + DC and 0 -DC normally connected on the underside.

There is (normally) a yellow wire that is +15 (12 VDC when the engine is running that controls the split charge function, the fridge and the step.

Fridges are not designed to run on 12 VDC when the engine is not running as they would quickly flatten the batteries.

Eddie


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

eddievanbitz said:


> Easyriders said:
> 
> 
> > Our fridge only works on 12v when the engine is on, and so has nothing to do with the Elektroblock. The Elektroblock deals with mains 240v and has a transformer for 12v to the leisure battery, but the 12v for the fridge comes from the engine, not the leisure battery.
> ...


Yes I know most of the above. The repairman unplugged the connector to the Elektroblock and hooked up a small battery to the fridge side and then the light at the fridge came on. With the motor running nothing was happening so we were convinced that the problem is in the Elektroblock. The circuit that closes the contact to the fridge is not working. The alternative to the relay suggested is to send in the Elektroblock for repair which I have done once. It's not so difficult but in the end is costly and takes away use of the camper for a time.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

So by pass the Electroblok with a relay and get that fridge working  

Or bring it to us and we'll do it (for a fee :wink: )

Eddie


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

eddievanbitz said:


> So by pass the Electroblok with a relay and get that fridge working
> 
> Or bring it to us and we'll do it (for a fee :wink: )
> 
> Eddie


You are too far away. I got a relay, it has your same numbers on it. Hooked it up to the ignition and that works, now I need some more help as to which connections to make to the fridge. Our Elektroblock is an EBL 99G. I have the wiring diagram there are two plugs that mention the fridge a 4 pin and a 5 pin. It seems the power must go to the wire on the 5 pin no. 1 after that I don't know. Can you help?


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Fit a smartcom relay, it's what all the self builders use, fool proof, charges the leisure battery, with a take off point for the fridge when driving only otherwise it does nothing, not fancy gimmicky control panels to go wrong.

Smartcom relay

Simplicity to wire up, cheap to replace if it ever does go wrong, which is unlikely, you may need a HD relay £12 and some cable, depending on existing components, more importantly you fitted it, you can mend it, maybe not for the newer vans, but all that's in most control panels is a rubbish charger and the equivalent of the smartcom, and some switches and fuses.

Chuck the lot and wire in Ctek smart charger and a smartcom, a couple of switches to turn on the lights and the pump, the cheapest control setup is over £200, wish I'd figured this out years ago, I'd be rolling in it.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Maybe do the Smartcom on the next project. For now I just need a bit of help to know which wires in the bundle need to be hooked up to the relay I'm installing. Which would in fact be the same wires to use with the Smartcom.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Sorry, but I can't help with that one, you need to be there looking at it with a meter, and trace the wiring, unless you're familiar with that particular van, and any mods done to it.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

From memory the two pins you quote are load and supply so you should be able to connect them straight across the relay.

A 30 amp 12 VDC relay should cost a couple of quid and last ages so you could buy six of them :wink: 

If you have a meter check the two pins you have found, one should be 12 volts (supply) so the other would be the load (fridge)

Regards

Eddie


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Well I finally did it. The light comes on at least so we will see if it actually cools when the motor is running. I am reluctant to admit that it took me a really long time to understand how it all worked, which wires did what and how the relay worked. At one point in time I was ready to just put it all back the way it was and forget about it. But instead I tried one more time and then another and so on. 

The next project will be replacing the solar panel controller with the new mppt one that should arrive in a week or so.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

eddievanbitz said:


> From memory the two pins you quote are load and supply so you should be able to connect them straight across the relay.
> 
> A 30 amp 12 VDC relay should cost a couple of quid and last ages so you could buy six of them :wink:
> 
> ...


The two pins (wires) were the load and the plus to the fridge. It took me a long time to understand which was which. The setup required a new 12v connection to the relay and a new ground connection. The ignition wire from the fridge plug (yellow wire) was dead so I used a different one. Did a lot of back and forth testing with a meter to understand which wires to use where and which pins on the relay to put them on.


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