# Another Chaussson damp problem !!



## rotorywing

Hi all

Thought I'd let you see my latest problem !!. Whilst on hols in southern France I noticed the dreaded pimpling in the boot/garage ( must remember not to go in there !). Having returned home the investigation started. First was the removal of the rear fairing, not an easy task as it had been attached with adhesive/sealant around the number plate area. Once removed the reason was evident, The join between the rear wall and the floor had not been sealed.......allowing moisture to migrate up into the wall. My van is a Welcome 27 on a Mk6 Ford Transit chassis, with twin rear wheels. On the near side it is protected by the waste water tank which acts like a mudflap deflecting any water spray. On the offside there is no mudflap and nothing to stop the road spray until it hits the rear fairing and then circulates around inside the fairing saturating the joint area.

So its a massive clean up and resealing prior to checking the extent of the internal damage. Hopefully the dehumidifier will do the job for me. 

Anyone tried flash band on these sort of areas.

Martin
Ps, site will not allow me to attach photy's


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## Markko

Hi Martin,
I have just discovered a very similar problem with my welcome 27 and wondered if you'd be willing to update with a progress report on your problem.
I spotted two rusty stains under the shower room on the inside back wall (inside the garage) and so took the bumper off as you did to discover the rusty marks are from the screws that go through the back panel into the shower room floor, it does seem likely that the dampness is caused by spray getting inside the bumper and the bottom panel not being properly sealed, I have peeled away the plastic coating which lines the inside back wall just under the shower area and discovered the plywood underneath is very damp and rotting, I'm attempting to dry it out with a fan heater for now but I am unsure what to do to get it fixed or at least stop it from getting any worse.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,

Mark.


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## Carl_n_Flo

Martin - I will PM you my email address.
Send me the photos and I will attach them via photobucket.

Carl


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## rotorywing

Hi Carl

Sound very similar to my problem, I had some expert guidance from 'Pilchards' who also had the same problem. I tried to get the rotten wood out, but soon found good wood !! so I followed pilchards advice and dug all the rotten stuff out of the corners and then inserted a new piece of wood and expanding foam. The gap at the bottom was quite large so after doing all the outside work I sealed the joints with gutter sealant then went over it with Flashband. I also sealed the rear window and removed the bike rack and resealed the fittings. I also sealed the joint at the top of the rear external wall !!!. I have had a dehumidifier in the boot for a few weeks which is working its just the area under the shower which is a bit slow to dry out. I have no signs or water marks on the shower floor area just a high reading on the internal rear wall below the shower. I'm hoping that i have caught it in time.
I shall forward to you Dave's instructions as he seems to have sorted his problem.......different model but the same problem.

The first few pics are when I removed the bumper......so the mess looks very bad. I am now in the process of manufacturing mud flaps

I shall give you a update tomorrow, got to pick up the controller at 8pm.

Martin

Flashband http://reviews.diy.com/2191-en_gb/10517612/reviews.htm


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## Markko

Hi Martin, 

Thanks for the quick reply, maybe its not quite such the disaster I thought!

I'd be very grateful if you could email me the instructions from Dave, my e-mail address is topwheels at ntlworld dot com

Cheers,
Mark.


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## rotorywing

Hi Mark

One thing I found during the investigation was that the cycle rack fitting may be a bit suspect. I removed the fittings and found that the nylon insert that sits inside the wall [to stop the wall being crushed] seemed to be slightly to long. Also that the upper fittings do not pass through a strong point !!!. The fittings just pass through the outer skin [GRP] and insulation [Polystyrene] and the 3mm internal wall. Not ideal when you have 2 cycles bouncing up and down.
I constantly get high moisture readings below one of the upper fittings which requires more investigation.

Martin


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## Carl_n_Flo

rotorywing said:


> Hi all
> 
> Thought I'd let you see my latest problem !!. .........
> 
> Martin
> Ps, site will not allow me to attach photy's


Here you go Martin:


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## rotorywing

Thank you Carl for adding the pics....

The third and fourth pics is evidence of the amount of grime and road crap that is thrown up inside the rear fairing........All of it cleaned off after a bit of elbow grease


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## Carl_n_Flo

No worries Martin!!

I guess the worst crap is where the rear lights are? Might be an idea to close off the gap to the underside of the fairing after you have put it all back together again to stop damp and wet muck from hanging around in such vulnerable places.


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## rotorywing

Not much chance of that Carl......it a large fairing which hangs very low below the rear wall..............

Martin


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