# Fitting cruise control



## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

After reading several posts about retrofitting cruise I have stumped up £300 and bought one from Conrad andersons 

So has anyone fitted this themselves? Looks fairly straight forward with most of the wiring just plug and play!?

If anyone has done this and can offer any tips?

Was going to do it this weekend but been snowed off lol


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## eurajohn (May 9, 2005)

Need more info as to what base vehicle your van is and exactly which kit you have purchased.

.


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## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

From memory, I paid less than £300 for Dave Newall to supply and fit mine (5y ago).


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Sorry it's a fiat ducato cab with the 3.0 ltr 160 multi jet engine.

It was more expensive and from what other people paid it seems around £450 fitted would be about the going rate so £330 and me fitting it seemed reasonable


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Watching two retro fits one on my present van and the other on my last van made me realise it is something I would never attempt, even though I am quite handy, the installation is just too fiddley and has to be 100% spot on, not just the installation but the setting up of the thing..

Leave it to the guys who are fitting the things all the time, they have the tools and the means of working under the van easily..

ray.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Looks like only 6 wires from the brief look at the instructions so hoping it's fairly easy. I'm pretty handy so hoping it won't be too hard


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

I have a nagging suspicion that the ECU needs to be "told" that cruise control is fitted and THAT is not a DIY job. (But I could be wrong of course, worth checking)

Andy


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## Sprinta (Sep 15, 2010)

I had a read through of the fitting instructions for exactly this unit just a week ago, in the main it appears to be mostly plug'n'play with just 3 or 4 connections to be made

However, the instructions were missing the correct wiring diagram and details and had to be obtaiojed direct from Conrad Anderson to allow it all to make sense - I hope you got it all in your package. You need to make sure you have the info that tells you where to tap in


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## eurajohn (May 9, 2005)

I've not fitted that actual version but am pretty sure if you have got the canbus version kit you will find it very straightforward, virtually plug and play.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

eurajohn said:


> I've not fitted that actual version but am pretty sure if you have got the canbus version kit you will find it very straightforward, virtually plug and play.


Yes it's the canbus version so hoping it's pretty simple, hoping to fit it this weekend


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## powerplus (Oct 6, 2014)

please kep us informed as i would like 1

barry


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

powerplus said:


> please kep us informed as i would like 1
> 
> barry


I will take some pics as I go and if it goes ok will do a write up on it


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

I fitted what appears to be the universally available aftermarket system from Bridgewater Electronics.

Dead easy to do and if my memory serves me correctly it took longer to fit the control stalk than any other part.

My m/h is Peugeot Boxer based and I found a canbus node behind the radio which was much easier to hook up to than the diagnostic socket.

It amazed me how many wires are NOT connected or needed. (Other canbus capabilities)

Read the stalk instructions carefully when commissioning - it's very easy to mistake up and forwards when first turning on!


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

From having a quick read it looks like one canbus plug to the loom, wires to the pedals, one positive and one other that goes to the fuse box or ecu can't remember but only 6 wires


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

Kirbz73 said:


> From having a quick read it looks like one canbus plug to the loom, wires to the pedals, one positive and one other that goes to the fuse box or ecu can't remember but only 6 wires


I seem to remember unplugging loom from accelerator pedal and attaching a harness between the two which had a branch coming off for the canbus module.
Plug in stalk and connect to can high and can low.


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

This picture shows the canbus node that I found behind the radio on my motorhome.

The two loops are "can high" and "can low" - don't cut them just attach to them (not with scotchlocks!!)

Strip off about 1cm of insulation on each loop and solder your wires on before taping up.

Alternatively - cut the loop, strip back about a cm on each, slip on some heatshrink, solder back together with your new wire attached, then heat up the heatshrink for a more professional job.


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Are "we" 100% sure that a 2008 Ducato is full canbus? I have a feeling it's not.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Sorry not sure it is,I got this one based on what they said

http://www.conrad-anderson.co.uk/products/view/cc172030253/wizard:cruise-control

Says non canbus on it but in the description say canbus!?


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Kirbz73 said:


> Sorry not sure it is,I got this one based on what they said
> 
> http://www.conrad-anderson.co.uk/products/view/cc172030253/wizard:cruise-control
> 
> Says non canbus on it but in the description say canbus!?


I've asked the question on the Ducato forum just in case you start hunting for canbus wires that aren't there. I've had the radio out on many occasions and can't remember seeing the connector that Bob is referring to. I wonder if it's hidden away somewhere to the side maybe?

This is a mod/add-on that I'm interested in maybe this year so very keen to see how you get on.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

I wasn't planning on doing it yet but arranging a month away later this year so may as well get everything sorted we want whilst it's on the drive

I figure if I can rewire a stereo I should be able to fit this.

From reading the reviews the company seem to be very good and very helpful.

Worse case scenario if I'm struggling I can always take it to them and pay £150 to get them to fit it


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

I just relate my own experience of a 2009 Boxer which I believe is very similar to the Fiat.

The instructions with the kit I used suggested connecting to canbus via the diagnostic OBDll socket either by wiring into the rear or plugging into the front.

Neither of these options would have been as easy or as tidy as what I did - it was pure luck that I discovered the node while swapping the stereo on an earlier occasion.

The kit you've got is exactly the same as mine (possibly badged up differently to my Liteon system) and as far as I can tell if you don't have a bowden cable from your accelerator pedal to the engine then it will be canbus (fly by wire).


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Right had a look at this today and had to give it up, stripped the panels off but fell at the first hurdle!! I could not get the plug off from the accelerator pedal, it's really awkward as you need to force in the clip as well as trying to pull it off but my hands are too big and there's not much room so going to book it in and get them to fit it.

Bit gutted as I feel it's not difficult but will get it booked in soon


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Kirbz73 said:


> Right had a look at this today and had to give it up, stripped the panels off but fell at the first hurdle!! I could not get the plug off from the accelerator pedal, it's really awkward as you need to force in the clip as well as trying to pull it off but my hands are too big and there's not much room so going to book it in and get them to fit it.
> 
> Bit gutted as I feel it's not difficult but will get it booked in soon


What a bugga - trip to Brum then?


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Yep unfortunately so gonna try to get in next Saturday if they do Saturday installs and stay someone on the way back home


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

There is an old saying, you know that goes something like -

If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try again.

Not -

If at first you don't succed, give up!

Britain didn't become Great Britain easily!

A new day and a fresh approach and what seemed difficult yesterday can often be cracked with ease - and, think of what you could do, or where you could go with the money you save!

We're here to help!


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

bob-in-dav said:


> There is an old saying, you know that goes something like -
> 
> If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try again.
> 
> ...


Hey when it comes to saving money I will try anything

I spoke to comrads and they were very helpful and did say it's hard work getting the clip off and advised me to have another go and to remove the pedal as its only 3 bolts and makes it more accessible so will give it another go this weekend weather depending.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Plus on the website it says it's £150 for them to fit and on the phone he told me it was at least £185


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## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

Kirbz73 said:


> Plus on the website it says it's £150 for them to fit and on the phone he told me it was at least £185


That may be the price if you go "all in" ie supply & fit in one job.

Alternatively, it could be VAT (£150 + 20% = £180: close?)

Or the website could be out of date: I'm currently booking a meal at a local pub where there site says "Xmas menus will be available from mid-November 2015".

Good luck with your 2nd try - Gordon


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Disaster gents!!

Gave it another go after speaking to conrads and removed the pedal as advised and made it really easy. Connected the other cables and was all fairly straight forward but I also had to remove the mysterious switch while I installed the cruise stork and put it all back together and it won't start.

Turns over fine but won't fire up. I presume anything to do with the cruise wouldn't stop the mh starting so I am presuming it's to do with this bloody switch.

I've disconnected the battery to see if resetting the ecu will resolve it but I'm at a loss at the moment? The cruise unit lights up and registers when you move the stork.

So any ideas? I can see the wiring for the switch going into the dash above the fuse box somewhere 

Cheers
Mike


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Just nipped out and cut out the cruise wiring to double check it and it still won't start so 99% sure it's the damn switch that I had to disconnect


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

The only way to really check the new installation is to take the pedal out again, disconnect the new harness and reconnect the pedal to the original loom - if it starts then it'something to do with the new installation.

The mysterious switch and its function need to be determined - my original thought was that it might activate an immobiliser but they usually don't allow the engine to turn over. However it may simply be there to stop the fuel pùmp from pumping any fuel to immobilise the engine. I'd suggest following the wiring from the added switch to see where it goes and try to get that out of the equation of your cuise control installation.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Already done that to double check the cruise wiring which is annoying as I will need to rewrite it all again.

Had a message from conrads and he says to double check the oem immobiliser as there's a wire the key has to pass to start it and it might have been disturbed during install so gives me something to look at tomorrow


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

It sounds like Conrads are describing what some vehicles have close to the ignition barrel that detects the transponder chip in the key - usually a coil attached to the ignition barrel itself.

I have my doubts about this theory as you described the engine turning over which wouldn't normally happen with oem immobiliser activated.

I assume that you've tried locking the vehicle with the plipper and unlocking it again as this often forms part of the of the sequence that the immobiliser is expecting.


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

I'm beginning to hate this thing hahaha

Well found where the switch went and yes was for a tracker so completely unwired it and removed it as I've no paperwork for it anyway so there's the mysterious switch solved.

What more worried me was it wasn't wired up to anywhere it could switch off the fuel pump or something else that could stop the mh working!?

So was about to put the cruise wiring back to oem to completely remove it when I just thought I would double check the loom and the main bloody plug in the fuse box was not in all the way?? Don't know why as it was and locked in but somehow during the install it's come out about 5mm so once it was unplugged and plugged back in and locked hey presto fired up first time.

So all that messing and removing the cruise and tracked was all a waste of time.

Ah well having a coffee and getting warmed up before I go and refit the cruise and put the whole interior back together.


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

Top man!

10 out of 10 for perseverance and observation!

I bet the re-installation of the cruise control will be a dawdle this time around!


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

bob-in-dav said:


> Top man!
> 
> 10 out of 10 for perseverance and observation!
> 
> I bet the re-installation of the cruise control will be a dawdle this time around!


Oh yeah was a 10 minute job as I cut the wires with plenty on them so just connected it back up then taped up all.

Just waiting for the wife to come back then testing it as I believe it needs to be tweaked due to the size of the mh

I've done the learn bit on the accelerator pedal now just need to set the sensitivity etc


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

Last update

Just took out for a test run and works perfectly 

Very happy bunny, might need a slight tweek on a longer journey but holds speed and increases/decreases etc just need to increase the velocity of how fast it increases being a big beast.

I honestly feel now I've done it it's a 2 hour job tops and very easy just don't make the same mistake I did haha

If anyone wants me to write it up I am happy to do so


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

A "how to" would be great. This thread has given me the confidence to tackle the job in the warmer months.


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## bob-in-dav (Aug 11, 2013)

deefordog said:


> A "how to" would be great. This thread has given me the confidence to tackle the job in the warmer months.


The really cheeky ansnswer to this is -

1-find supplier
2-buy kit
3-read instructions
4-install kit
5-commission
6-enjoy and feel smug because you did it all by yourself

:wink2:

My recommendation on supplier would be Bridgewater Electronics


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## Kirbz73 (Nov 22, 2015)

I do feel rather smug that I saved £200 and no doubt at least another £100 in expenses getting there.

I don't mind doing a write up if it helps other people and means people don't make the same mistake I did


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