# Water Pump wiring



## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

I'm currently rewiring our new baby as it has become a literal birdsnest over the last twenty odd years and am trying to work out my water pump and tap electrical circuit. I've put two schematics together based upon my limited logic. Could someone please help me to decide with circuit is the correct one of the two below or am I missing anything?
Roger


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## bigbazza (Mar 6, 2008)

I don't know for sure but No.1 seems the more logical with all live feeds being switched.


Edited:- chose wrong heading for picture


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## loddy (Feb 12, 2007)

Whats the switch thing by the pump ??

loddy


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

loddy said:


> Whats the switch thing by the pump ??
> 
> loddy


Hi Loddy, the switch 'thingy'  is an iluminated switch that controls the entire circuit to the set up. It acts as a reminder that the circuit is live to prempt one of the tap microswitches flooding the place whilst on the move.


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

bigbazza said:


> I don't know for sure but No.1 seems the more logical with all live feeds being switched.
> 
> Edited:- chose wrong heading for picture


Thanks Bigbazza.


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

I don't think that either are right. If either tap switches closes there will be a dead short across the zig unit.
The fuse would normally be in the + line.

The switch near the pump seems to be a double pole switch and I cannot see why. I would expect the switch to have a - connection for the lamp a + in and a out to pump


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

safariboy said:


> I don't think that either are right. If either tap switches closes there will be a dead short across the zig unit.
> The fuse would normally be in the + line.
> 
> The switch near the pump seems to be a double pole switch and I cannot see why. I would expect the switch to have a - connection for the lamp a + in and a out to pump


Thanks Safariboy, as I said the original wiring was an atrocious can of worms with twisted wires and multiple jointed connection which I am laboriously rectifying slowly but surely, hence my attempt to create a proper wiring schematic that will actually work.
Having taken your advise I have generated the following diagram and would welcome your comments.


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## Chudders (Jul 5, 2008)

I still do not think your wiring diagram is right. With both live and neutral going to the switch it looks as though when you close the switch on the tap you will create a dead short. Surely only the live needs to go to each switch as in and out, ie make and break. The neutral would ordinarily go straight to the pump unbroken but it may be required in the illuminated switch but only to make the warning light work. If the switch itself is not double pole then again you only need to make and break the live. The fuse should also be in the live not the neutral as ammended. However is there not a fuse at source ie the Zig unit. If not I feel your in line fuse should be as close as possible to the supply source in order that the cable and the switch are protected in case of damage.

Or maybe I have misunderstood your post and the diagram, if so sorry.
regards, Dave


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

I agree with Chudders. My understanding is that the tap switches are simply open when the tap is OFF and closed when it is ON. If so there should be NO -ve connection to the tap switches. It is very hard to design a suitable circuit without seeing the original.


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## Fatalhud (Mar 3, 2006)

I would do it like this


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

Chudders said:


> I still do not think your wiring diagram is right. With both live and neutral going to the switch it looks as though when you close the switch on the tap you will create a dead short. Surely only the live needs to go to each switch as in and out, ie make and break. The neutral would ordinarily go straight to the pump unbroken but it may be required in the illuminated switch but only to make the warning light work. If the switch itself is not double pole then again you only need to make and break the live. The fuse should also be in the live not the neutral as ammended. However is there not a fuse at source ie the Zig unit. If not I feel your in line fuse should be as close as possible to the supply source in order that the cable and the switch are protected in case of damage.
> 
> Or maybe I have misunderstood your post and the diagram, if so sorry.
> regards, Dave


Thanks Dave and Safariboy , I've simplied the schematic a bit in an attempt to explain.

My logic is that once the illuminated switch is thrown, power is then sent to the tap microswitches and if any on of them are closed the pump will receive a postive input. Or.......is it just me not understanding how a three pole illuminated switch works? :?


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## Chudders (Jul 5, 2008)

Fatalhud, that looks better to me with one proviso that the OP understands that the first switch(we will call it an isolator) only requires a neutral if the warning lamp requires it. The live should be the only one making and breaking the circuit. (Unless double pole)
Dave


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## Chudders (Jul 5, 2008)

Dawnwynne, My view is still that your fuse should be immediately after the output from your supply not after the switch. Or is the output from the Zig unit already fused. I,m still not quite sure about what you propose with the switch. You only need to make and break the positive, the neutral should be purely functional to provide a negative for the warning light.
Is the switch single or double pole.
Dave


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## Fatalhud (Mar 3, 2006)

You need to put the fuse before the illuminated switch then all the circuit will be protected :wink:

The switches need to be wired "Normally open" contact
when you turn the tap on the switch then closes sending power to the pump

Do you know the wattage of the pump, to check the fuse size :?: 

Alan H


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks all, sorry to be such a pain but the original schematics were not provided and in any case the previous moron simply 'added' additional wiring by butt jointing, twisting in additional bits and pieces thus compromising absolutely everything. Thats why I'm effectively starting again in fact I must have removed several metres of uneccessary connections and wiring already. 8O 
OK, the Zig unit circuit is already protected internally between connections 5 and 6 by a 10 amp fuse, so I'm comfortable about that and it's my understanding that the tap microswitches should be protected by a 3 amp fuse


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## Fatalhud (Mar 3, 2006)

dawnwynne said:


> OK, the Zig unit circuit is already protected internally between connections 5 and 6 by a 10 amp fuse, so I'm comfortable about that and it's my understanding that the tap microswitches should be protected by a 3 amp fuse


The micro switches will have to cope with whatever the load of the pump is, which is why I questioned the wattage of the pump.

Alan H


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

Fair point Alan, thanks for your input. I hadn't considered that.
Kind regards, Roger 8)


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

I found in my time as a tugger that microswitches are rather prone to failure so ours was a pressure operated system with the supply to the pump being via a pressure operated switch. It meant much less wiring and one switch controls all taps on the system. The one we used was superb and VERY reliable (and adjustable to cope with extra demands of shower etc);

http://www.whalepumps.com/caravan_RV/product_list/16/88/

available from CAK Tanks;

http://www.caktanks.com/CAK_Water_Pumps.htm

you might find this easier to wire and more reliable in use. The fuse should always be as close to the supply as possible, the Zig unit fuse will provide protection but if it blows other things stop operating too. An in-line additional fuse may provide greater protection but do check what rating is needed for the pump.

Hope this gives you useful advice, in my experience the fewer wires there are the more reliable the whole thing will be! :lol:

Dave


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## dawnwynne (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks Dave, that seems to be the most intelligent and logical path to follow with the additional bonus of not having to rely on the tap micro switches (which I believe are prone to failing at the wrong time) and the opportunity to remove even more miles of dodgy wiring. 8)  
Roger


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

I think that you should be OK with this but will need care with the switch. Hopefully it is well marked.


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