# Screws pulled out of thin skin aluminium.



## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Hymer B574 2002.
History, The habitation door retention clip was worn and not very effective so I replaced it. The new clip was very strong so we broke it, accidentally, by pulling half of it away from the alumimium skin. Previously I had used the fattest self tappers possible so now I am looking for a different solution,
Question, Does anybody know of a suitable thin skinned metal cavity fixing that does not need a large diameter hole for it to function or be inserted?
I cannot bring myself round to drilling large holes in the van!
Thanks for any advice.
Geoff.


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Borisd0 said:


> Hymer B574 2002.
> History, The habitation door retention clip was worn and not very effective so I replaced it. The new clip was very strong so we broke it, accidentally, by pulling half of it away from the alumimium skin. Previously I had used the fattest self tappers possible so now I am looking for a different solution,
> Question, Does anybody know of a suitable thin skinned metal cavity fixing that does not need a large diameter hole for it to function or be inserted?
> I cannot bring myself round to drilling large holes in the van!
> ...


Google "Peel back dome head rivets", that's what you need, they are widely used in such fixing.

Terry


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Fix it back with Sykoflex to bed it on then fit self tappers back in the holes, the screws will not do much but the mastic will fix it and fill any leak points from the old screw holes.


ray.


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## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

Thats funny, Hans just showed me peel back rivets as he was using them yesterday, cleaver little things they are.


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## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

*Peelback rivets*

Plastic step with rubber mat fixed with peelback rivets


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

If all else fails, there is always stainless steel bolts with dome head nuts on the inside.

I'm not clear where the actual screws mentioned are, the door, or the van side, if the door, would it be possible to fabricate a handle inside to hide that the bolts are a bodge of sorts???


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## javea (Jun 8, 2007)

rayrecrok said:


> Fix it back with Sykoflex to bed it on then fit self tappers back in the holes, the screws will not do much but the mastic will fix it and fill any leak points from the old screw holes.
> 
> ray.


If you put the screws back in fill the holes with Sugru and the put the screws in, it will form solid rubber within 24 hours and hold the screws in.

https://sugru.com/buy/?gclid=Cj0KEQ...q16-FyClVp_qkVCtwZW0AlJqSh9pmMvSfwaAt3B8P8HAQ


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## coppo (May 27, 2009)

Do you have any pics of the damage.

I,ve never seen that before, must be some strong door retainers for that to happen.


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## mgdavid (Nov 27, 2014)

I'd use a rivnut, aka Nutsert


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Sugru is great, but not for this I think, Rivnut is a good idea though.


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## shingi (Apr 18, 2008)

I've used Rawlplugs before now, but used the ones with a small lip/flange so that when inserted it doesn't disappear into the cavity, or alternatively the plugs with "wings" which are normally used in domestic plasterboard applications. Another thought, rivet a strong but thin metal plate over your enlarged hole, and then use your original screws into that.

Mick


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Pictures of any damage always make answers more useful, but why do we rarely get any despite asking.


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## javea (Jun 8, 2007)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Sugru is great, but not for this I think, Rivnut is a good idea though.


Just for info Kev, a few years back I had to replace the rear light on my Hymer B544 (flipping expensive!), it is held in by bolts to captive nuts and over time the bolts become locked to the captives. On advice from Chris at Premier it was apparent that the only way to remove the bolts was to cut an Allen key, put it in a drill and spin the captives so that the would come out. To refit set the captives in Sugru and when cured screw the bolts back in. Worked a treat and all still firmly fixed.

Mike


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I'll have to take your word for that Mike, I have Sugru, Phil (Cabby) put me on to it and whilst it's good stuff, I'd have thought anything screwed into it would just wobble about at is so pliable, I use it for those very properties to secure USB cable to the plugs as they always crack and break off, Sugru allows the wires to bend through larger arc, I'd never think to use it for anything constructive, you learn something new everyday 

For what you describe I'd have gone for Milliput or one of the other mix together metal type compounds, you can even machine those or tap a thread.


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## javea (Jun 8, 2007)

Well I have learnt a bit more about fixings today, peel back rivets, rivnuts and Milliputs. Never heard of them before, that's the beauty of this forum - knowledge is passed from those in the know to those who need to know.:smile2:


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Image to show door on left and pulled out other half on side of van. I think I am going to try an even larger self tapper and perhap file a little of the RH piece so that it not such a tight fit. As mentioned earlier I have also learnt quite a bit about fixings. PS. getting to the inside of the hole would be a major dismantling job. Thanks to all.


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## chasper (Apr 20, 2008)

If it was me i would find a piece of aluminium about 3mm thick and the same dimensions as the catch. I would drill two holes to suit the original screw, using the catch as a template for the pitch of the holes. I would drill and countersink a couple of holes, say 6 mm diameter or even one between the two original holes. Then usesing Araldite or similar epoxy resin i would stick the plate in position then fasten in place with the self tapping in the one or two centre holes you have drilled. Let it set then replace the catch with the original screws. Chas.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Ah, pictures at last, Okay had this problem before, basically it's a rubbish and cheap method of holding a door open, prone to failure and not even that good, I replace them with something far better, if a little bigger, but it impart zero pressure to the van wall or door.

Note last picture where there is a unused hole I squeezed some paintable white sealant into it and then light coat of paint, but never took a picture but it was pretty much invisible.

These can be fitted without the black surround and I think you may be able to get white too, but the main bit is stainless steel and sprung loaded, so no slamming doors or locker lids ever again.

Cheaper ones are out there.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Door-...646909&hash=item3f367126ec:g:necAAOSwtGlZDxO2


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## coppo (May 27, 2009)

Yes great catches Kev, just Concorde use on their motorhome since 2003.


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