# hymer pull down bed gas struts



## rickenbacker (Apr 7, 2011)

We have a 1982 hymer 595 with pull-down bed which does not have any gas struts. We can get the struts but does anyone know do we need anything to fix them with or is the motor home ready as is.
Any advice will be appreciated.

Rickenbacker


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

We had 1997 Hymer E-510 gas struts replaced by Peter Hambleton as there is quite a bit of compression/tension required fitting them,
On yours has it previously had gas struts or are you considering fitting them for the first time ? - if so do your drop-down metal bed straps have provision for connecting gas struts ?


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

Yeah - I think that's exactly what the OP is asking - Is the MH already equipped with mounting points??

I would have thought it would be obvious by looking - but there you go...

Cheers


Dave


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## rickenbacker (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks for info. Have rummaged around the pull-down bed and found what appears to be 2 gas struts at the front sides of the metal frame. They are on the top fixed side rail and are about 8/9 inches long with a nut&bolt type fixing. However when I read about replacing them the info says the bed must be raised as high as possible, but if I do that I can't see or reach them.
Am I on the wrong tack.

Desperate

Many thanks in anticipation


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

I suspect the bed has to be raised as high as poss to allow the strutts the best tension/compression condition for fitting . . Beware-the compression is high & some strength is required. Why not give the expert a ring (Peter Hamblton) - top Hymer expert.
http://www.friendlyhippo.co.uk/hymerdirect/


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

Yeah - when the bed is as high as you can get it, the struts will be at minimum deflection (from stowed position) and thus easiest to fit replacements.

How do you know you need replacements?

Is it a bit heavy to lift (like mine on my Eura) or is it too heavy to lift?

On the Eura the struts are quite a bit bigger than those you mention - more like 600mm

Cheers

Dave


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## nickkdx (May 26, 2009)

I changed the struts on my 2001 Hymer,(the old ones leaked their oil) I know it's different to yours but maybe similar. I pulled bed down and removed split pins and washers that hold struts on and then lifted bed as high as possible and I could just get my hand up the side and remove the strut end and then drop bed down and remove the other end, you can feel when the strut has no pressure on it. Replace in reverse order.

Nick


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## rickenbacker (Apr 7, 2011)

Hi All

Many thanks for replies. It sound like nickkdx had a similar problem to me. I will try his solution and hope things work out ok. The bed is very difficult to raise after use....we're getting older and not as robust.

Once again many thanks


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## uncleswede (Apr 16, 2010)

rickenbacker said:


> Hi All
> 
> Many thanks for replies. It sound like nickkdx had a similar problem to me. I will try his solution and hope things work out ok. The bed is very difficult to raise after use....we're getting older and not as robust.
> 
> Once again many thanks


If that doesn't work out, let me add a +1 for Peter Hambilton. There is nothing about Hymers than man doesn't know.


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## charlieivan (Apr 25, 2006)

I have replaced both struts in the past on two different Hymers. I posted the method I used a couple of times and the actual job is easy if tackled in the right way. Some scare mongers will talk about the struts flying off and smashing the windscreen but if done in order that will never happen. This is what I posted about the way I did it.

If it is just the gas strut that needs replacing it isn't too big a job. I did mine on my own by lowering the bed so they are easily reached and you don't need to struggle to reach up the side of raised bed. With bed lowered the struts are right in front of you and you also have a good stable platform to work on. They are not very long so no real danger of them going through the screen. Release one end of strut from locating peg so it just hangs loose then remove other end. Measure distance between locating pins and compress new strut so holes match this measurement and lock them in some way. I used two large jubilee clips fixed together and tightened around outside of strut. Offer up the strut to the locating pins and adjust as necessary by tightening/loosening jubilee clip until strut locates. Put fixing washers and split pins in, remove jubilee clips, job done!! 
Also worth checking is security of all fixing bolts on bed frame. I had one that actually came off which was original reason for changing gas strut


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## rickenbacker (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks charlievan, that sounds like a very good solution, especially locking the struts with jubilee clips. It will be a little while till I do it, but will let you know how I get on.

Again, many thanks


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## kimkim (Nov 4, 2007)

Thanks, Charlieivan, for your sound advice on putting the strut back in with the bed down. The front bolt came out on our Hymer 640 on the left hand side and we had to remove the gas strut. Your idea with the jubilee clips was spot on - we used them to hold the strut after it was compressed and with the bed down, it was very easy to re-install. We managed to use the original strut also which saved us some money!

The only thing is, we couldn't compress the gas strut with the jubilee clips alone but, once it was compressed, they did hold it in position for re-installing. We used two bolts and washers over the holes in the strut with the connected-jubilees in place and when we compressed it, we could then tighten it up with the clips in place. 

We needed 3 large jubliee clips with a width the same as the strut ends (9mm width in our case) so that it can be fitted over the locating pins on the Hymer sidewall. 

So your idea was absolutely perfect! The bed is working as good as new again and we can get a good night's sleep again!!

Lynda & Charlie


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