# Resurrecting an old TV for the MH.



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I bought a new Goodmans TV (GTVL 19WDVD) in 2006, which at first was used domestically, then it got moved to the bedroom and got occasional use in the MH, then we got a slightly bigger 22" one for the MH, (the bigger, better, faster, more syndrome had kicked in) as Lizs dad had died and there was a spare brand new TV, anyway that TV went with the Laika when we sod,l it as it had a dead pixel right in the middle of the screen, no invoice so we put up with it, so we're now back to using the old Goodmans, I've just had it out and dusted it down (the TV :roll: ) and it's playing the DVDs just fine, although the original remote control needs replacing :roll: 

So I never bothered before as it was too much hassle but I'm thinking of using it off in verter with a 12v supply as it's rated at 12v 5amp, and looking for the best way of doing it, I'd like to keep it as tidy as possible wiring wise I have an inverter which will easily power it and the PVR.

I'd like to have all the gubbins out of site, and just a small hole hidden by the TV for the power lead to come through, money is as usual for us an issue, I have 12v behind the TV wall, but I'd like to get it up and running this weekend if poss.

So a cheap and reliable 5 amp power supply, but which one as I've not really done the 12v TV supply thing before, and don't want to bugger up the telly and have to buy a new one.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

90 views, but no replies yet. :?:


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## rowley (May 14, 2005)

I was under the impression that this tv had a 12v input.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

rowley said:


> I was under the impression that this tv had a 12v input.


It do Rowley, but I only have the 230v transformer, which I'll use until I get a proper 12v supply, as I don't think they like to be connected direct to the LBs, otherwise I'd just chop the lead and extend it.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I'm also looking for a strong enough TV mount, which doesn't fall to bits at the first speed bump, but allows it to swivel out, I've looked on Ebay but they either just swivel with no arm IE just a big hinge, or they have long arms which transmit to much leverage into the 12mm thick ply wall, which will just pull out, and I can't strengthen from behind as the fridge freezer is there.

Does anyone know of shorter armed (25-50mm)swivel 100mm TV swivel bracket and where they stock them.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

What does the power in socket say on the label/moulding?

What does the 230V power supply say on its spec label?

There's no reason not to run on 12V if that what it takes from the 230V transformer/power supply.

Our Avtex comes with a 230V separate PSU, the input is purely 12V only.

Peter


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Regarding the TV mount, we made a bracket out of 10g (1/8") ali to go across the corner between the exterior wall and the bathroom wall, it has six screw holes and is severely rigid. I'm not sure about too much flexibility on a TV mount in a motorhome.

The Avtex now is visible to all sitting on the seats without too much twisting of necks, we located the screen at head height when we are seated. The hinged Avtex mount is retained.










Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

listerdiesel said:


> What does the power in socket say on the label/moulding?
> 
> What does the 230V power supply say on its spec label?
> 
> ...


I said I wanted to run it from 12v in the OP as it has a 230v to 12v transformer @5amps, so perfect for the van, but don't I need something to drop the volts from the LBs to 12v, and tidy up the power in there somewhere, I know I've seen countless threads on here about it, but I couldn't find one which actually advised on what and where to get a decent reliable one


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

listerdiesel said:


> Regarding the TV mount, we made a bracket out of 10g (1/8") ali to go across the corner between the exterior wall and the bathroom wall, it has six screw holes and is severely rigid. I'm not sure about too much flexibility on a TV mount in a motorhome.
> 
> The Avtex now is visible to all sitting on the seats without too much twisting of necks, we located the screen at head height when we are seated. The hinged Avtex mount is retained.
> 
> ...


In an ideal world I'd do the same but I only have one place I can mount it unfortunately, and like you I have severe reservations on the mounts I've seen in MHs on dealer forecourts, but I'm off to Cleckhuddersfax today Calling in at Lowdhams to look in some newer vans, and their accessory shop, also a TV shop Direct TVs on the way as images can be deceiving.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I said I wanted to run it from 12v in the OP as it has a 230v to 12v transformer @5amps, so perfect for the van, but don't I need something to drop the volts from the LBs to 12v, and tidy up the power in there somewhere, I know I've seen countless threads on here about it, but I couldn't find one which actually advised on what and where to get a decent reliable one


The range of voltage available from the LB would be something like 12.80V to 12.00V (higher if the SP's are running) and I can't see any issues with the TV at that range of voltages, but the TV will specify what its input range is, or the transformer will give the data.

Our Axtex says 12V input, but the LB's run at 13.80V and we haven't had any problems.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I tend to agree, so why so many threads about 12v to 12v TV transformers then, my mind is now boggled again :roll:  :lol: :lol:


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

There has to be a tolerance on anything that is caravan or motorhome related, nobody has 'exactly' 12V on their system, especially if there are solar panels or mains chargers working, so any manufacturer will build in a voltage tolerance, even for the mains power supply that runs it off 230V.

It may be a stabilised supply, but in my experience the tricky bits are built into the TV, the PSU is usually just a wall transformer with little or no regulation.

Get some pictures of the PSU label if you can, let's see how wrong I am  

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I just don't trust it as it was never designed to be used direct from a LB only via the 230v transformer.

The label just says 12v DC 5a crap pic attached, your Avtex most likely is designed to sort out a dirty 12v signal, and why they're so much more expensive.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

This is the type of thing I thought I had to get


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## rowley (May 14, 2005)

That will do the job for you.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Goodmans GTVL19W/HDVF LCD TV replacement power Supply:

Power supply output:

Voltage 11.4 - 12.6V ± 5% 
Current DC 7.0A Max 
Regulation 11.4Vmin. ~ 12.0Vtyp. ~ 12.6Vmax 
Ripple & Noise 150 mV Max 
Total Power 84W Max

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

listerdiesel said:


> Goodmans GTVL19W/HDVF LCD TV replacement power Supply:
> 
> Power supply output:
> 
> ...


Not sure why you posted that Peter, as it comes up as the same type of unit I already have which is working fine, unless it's for the specs of the supply itself to get the right regulated 12v supply, sorry if I'm being thick, bad night last night (no sleep) so I'm a bit groggy, and my tinnitus is really loud too, a hum and hissing.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

We did have a good look around and Direct TVs had a really good strong range, they looked well made and were not sloppy at all, with good fixings and were removable, but they started at £30 for the swivel type, which frankly is too much for what it does, so we left them in the shop.

We went to Lowdhams shop and got some reasonable lights for the lounge, and LEDs lamps to fit them, we went to Dickinsons caravan at Shipley and got a Labcraft LEDCW500PV3 for over the hob, and also some bargain basement single illuminated caravan type 230v single sockets for 50p each, end of line, I was going to use bog standard ones but these will be much better.

Re the TV mount, I've decided to make a simple one from the remains of a bed pine bed head which is 150x25mm (courtesy of Freegle) all stained and polished up and cut a 300mm length as in the (not to scale) drawing attached, I've used this method of hanging some pretty heavy stuff in the past and it has never failed, easy to get level and simplicity to remove the hung object for decorating etc if needed, with this being a mobile fitting I'll paint some silicone sealant onto the mating surfaces and let it dry before hanging the TV, then it will be impossible for the TV to slide off the mount sideways, but can be lifted and moved over to insert a DVD easily, I've never used silicone sealant like this before so hope it won't bond to itself under the pressure of the TVs weight.

If you can see a problem with the DIY TV mount please let me know.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

It was just to show you the range of the output voltage, regarding my earlier post about using the TV on a LB.

Peter


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> This is the type of thing I thought I had to get


That has a tolerance of +- 1 volt, so 11V to 13V. Why bother?

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

That had escaped me as so much does these days, especially the electrical stuff, so colour me not bothering, I'll nip down to Maplins tomorrow and see if I can get a made up lead with the right end on it as I hate messing with small stuff like that, can't see the chuffing things for a start. 

Thanks Peter :wink:


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Just to finish this thread off I made the TV bracket today, it's nothing fancy, but it works very well and I can relax about the TV swinging about when driving, See picture attached and 78/79 in my picture link.

Wento maplins today and forgot all about the damned 12v lead, the original reason for going :roll:


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I forgot to screw the bits on the back of the TV together, until about 3am this morning, I'd used Stixall as the glue, but it's only had about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to go off, so I was expecting the TV to be on the floor, but it's not budged, so I'm even more impressed with it now, but I've now added the screws so it can't go anywhere now even over the worst speed bumps.

Re the 12v, I found an old lead which fitted, so snipped it and connected it to a battery charger as I can't get to the LB supply where it's parked, the TV works but there is a hell of a buzz, I'm hoping it's just the charger which is now off, it's next to a Inverter supplied socket, could that cause interference, I'm assuming not as it's been supplied by a close proximity inverter before with no issues.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

What sort of charger?

Anything ancient is probably pumping a lot of ripple into the DC, and may well be high on voltage if it isn't regulated.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Just a bog standard 4a jobby, maybe ten years old.

I brought the car up close and connected with jump leads direct to the 12v cable, when I turned on the TV, oddly it turned on but the blank screen was very dim, thinking I might have damaged it, It unplugged the lead and tried with the 230v - 12v transformer, and it worked fine, I then went back to 12v via the jump leads and the TV came on and worked fine, not buzzing at all, so I assume all is OK and I can move on the the next task.

I had a 5v 2.5a transformer kicking around so I nicked the cable from that, it has one of those weird lumps around the cable near the output end, what is it and what does it do, every thing with a transformer seems to have one even my laptop.

Speaking of which, the laptop tranny says 120w 19.5v, would it run directly from 12v or would it just bugger it up or not run at all.


I could do with a spare battery for all this checking, I did have a 85a but gave it to the scrapman, turns out it was the charger which was duff grrr, it showed 13.8v ish, but wouldn't charge, the battery had been kicking around for years so assumed the worst.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> I had a 5v 2.5a transformer kicking around so I nicked the cable from that, it has one of those weird lumps around the cable near the output end, what is it and what does it do, every thing with a transformer seems to have one even my laptop.
> 
> Speaking of which, the laptop tranny says 120w 19.5v, would it run directly from 12v or would it just bugger it up or not run at all.


The 'weird lump' is probably a ferrite core through which the cable passes in a complete loop. It's there for suppression.

You'll need a step-UP converter for the laptop, plenty on fleabay.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks Peter, Found this one

Are the input/output amps too low for a laptop though, and is this better than using the inverter for the laptop?

I happen to have a small box to mount it in courtesy of Mrs Tupperware.

BTW, never heard of these converters.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

That one isn't man enough, we've got this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300933289543

Note that they do need a bit of cooling, so don't plonk them in a sealed box.

Input and output are not isolated, negatives are commoned.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

listerdiesel said:


> That one isn't man enough, we've got this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300933289543
> 
> ...


I did wonder, hence the link.

Thanks again Peter, I just ordered it, might have it in time to actually use it.

Just fitted my USB charger point for both Ipad and normal, I just connected into the fridge ignition wiring, as that hardly ever has any load on it, it also supplies the locker LEDs.

See pics in a bit 78 on


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## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

I believe that GerryD has posted in the past that these teles all have something built into them to stabilise the power supply, so that what ever you LBs are giving should be fine, even on hook up, Alan.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

erneboy said:


> I believe that GerryD has posted in the past that these teles all have something built into them to stabilise the power supply, so that what ever you LBs are giving should be fine, even on hook up, Alan.


I did have a look in the back of our Avtex, and it looks like a regular switching PSU in there, which will have a fairly wide input tolerance.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

It seems to be still working fine, I just need to get a replacement remote for the replacement remote for the replacement remote, the original still works, but every now and then it just stops working.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Three replacement remotes?? 8O 

Check the battery contacts for corrosion, doesn't take much to break the contact with the battery.

Peter


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

They're all fine, I change batteries regularly, at least every 6 months or so, no corrosion, just rubbish components I think.


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