# Sicily - two questions.



## StephandJohn (Sep 3, 2007)

Watching Gino's Islands in the Sun yesterday and we thought we might go to Sicily in May/June this year and then come up the coast through Puglia etc to Venice.
We made it to Sorrento a few years ago but it looks like quite a slog down the coast from there so we are thinking about the ferry from Genoa to Palermo.
So - is Sicily good for motorhomes? Has anyone done the ferry trip? It will cost about £220 but you obviously save on diesel, campsites if not wildcamping and the ferry across.
Your thoughts and experiences gratefully received as usual.
Steph


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

Did it 2 years ago fine for motorhomes, buy a good guide. Scilicly is stuffed with antiquities and ancient ruins many that make roman remains seem recent. 90 odd euros open return Reggio C to Messina. It will give you a chance to see the Raice bronzes in Region. Truely wonderous.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riace_bronzes

Dick

Edit to say I can throughly recommend this guide
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sicily-Gr...060075?hash=item3ab50448eb:g:IIAAAOSwGzlTvk1X


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## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

I personally would never go back to Regio, which I visited in my boat years ago, because I felt a very hostile atmosphere - probably because it is ruled by their equivalent of the Mafia. Others have the same opinion.

So the ferry would be one way to avoid it.

Geoff


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## 113016 (Jun 5, 2008)

nicholsong said:


> I personally would never go back to Regio, which I visited in my boat years ago, because I felt a very hostile atmosphere - probably because it is ruled by their equivalent of the Mafia. Others have the same opinion.
> 
> So the ferry would be one way to avoid it.
> 
> Geoff


Having crossed with an Articulated truck via the Regio crossing, I have to agree with Geoff, it is totally Mafia controlled, (or it was when I crossed)
It was so blatant, even in the ferry office and port ferry lanes. I won't go into details, but serious large back handers were requested, by men dressed in ferry logo gear! Not just from me, but, also, from other truckers. And this was immediately outside the terminal office!
Back handers for everything, and not hidden!
However saying, that, I doubt you would have any serious problems, and if it is a place you really want to go to, then go!
However, I do think there are nicer places!


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## havingfun (Oct 31, 2007)

hi,

glad you started this thread, been meaning to ask the same questions, our plan, lol, is to start off at our sons in valencia,drive to barcalona, ferry to italy, dont know which port, but would like to see pompoie, seen the top half of italy but never past rome, then ferry to sicily, we are the same, been watching programes on sicily, and really fancy it. after would like to come up like you past venice, and then, hungary, germany, who knows......

have been on the ferry companys, and cant seem to get an idea of when, where, or how much.....


mags


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## Al42 (Aug 4, 2011)

havingfun said:


> hi,
> 
> glad you started this thread, been meaning to ask the same questions, our plan, lol, is to start off at our sons in valencia,drive to barcalona, ferry to italy, dont know which port, but would like to see pompoie, seen the top half of italy but never past rome, then ferry to sicily, we are the same, been watching programes on sicily, and really fancy it. after would like to come up like you past venice, and then, hungary, germany, who knows......
> 
> ...


http://www.cemar.it/principale_eng.html

A google search will find other agents and links.

We crossed from Genoa to Barcelona with (I think ) Grimaldi Lines with a 5'er. Not the best ferry regarding facilities and not cheap but saved a lot of(expensive)driving.

Edit:....thought wrong, it was Gran Navi Veloci.


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## havingfun (Oct 31, 2007)

hi, am i getting it wrong,but the furtherest port down italy seems to be naples, and we did hope to get further down before we caught the ferry.

mags


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## 113016 (Jun 5, 2008)

The nearest port is Reggio Calabria, opposite Messina in Sicily

http://www.directferries.co.uk/messina_reggio_calabria_ferry.htm

Price and times
below

http://carontetourist.it/v3.0/timetables-and-fares-strait-of-messina-automobiles/


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

How far is it across the water? The fares seem pretty reasonable but I see there is something towards the bottom about if you don't live locally the is the addition of an "Ecopass ticket" but no clue as to what it is (or how much it is) probably some form of tourist tax.

Might have to look at dragging the wobbly box across at 93 euro's return, sounds like my sort of place (apart that is for the Mafiosa :wink2

Andy


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## scept1c (May 10, 2005)

StephandJohn said:


> Watching Gino's Islands in the Sun yesterday and we thought we might go to Sicily in May/June this year and then come up the coast through Puglia etc to Venice.
> We made it to Sorrento a few years ago but it looks like quite a slog down the coast from there so we are thinking about the ferry from Genoa to Palermo.
> So - is Sicily good for motorhomes? Has anyone done the ferry trip? It will cost about £220 but you obviously save on diesel, campsites if not wildcamping and the ferry across.
> Your thoughts and experiences gratefully received as usual.
> Steph


Yes, after Sorrento it's a long slog with not a lot to see if you go there down the main route.
On the return trip we opted for the ferry to Genoa. When we looked at the cost of diesel etc the ferry seemed like a good option.

There are some great places to see, San Vito Lo Capo was one of our higlights. The Greek temples at Agrigento should not be missed.

We found the people really friendly, we were on a bus in Catania and asked an elderly lady for directions, pretty soon half the people on the bus got involved trying to help and none of them could speak English, it was very funny and everyone was laughing.

Avoid driving through the centre of small towns, the streets are very narrow and the people like to double or treble park making it difficult to get through.


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## scept1c (May 10, 2005)

I just remembered a funny episode when we were overnighting in a beach car park on the south west coast.

I talked to a very elderly Italian with a very old van and a tiny scooter. He was a real character and spun some wonderful yarns. He told me that he had been in the Italian police during WW2 and met Mussolini and Winston Churchill and many other famous people. He said that he worked for a time with, his Italian pronunciation was the Cheeah but I soon worked out that he was referring to the CIA. I think he enjoyed spoofing to the tourists.

I also remember staying near Etna during a minor eruption and when I got home it was a bit harder to wash the roof of our van due to the slight volcanic ash deposits.


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## scouter (Dec 14, 2007)

Hi,
We went to Sicily last May and took the overnight ferry from Civitavechia to Termine Imerese (just east of Palermo). We boarded around 6pm and arrived around 10am. I decided it was the best compromise between driving and the ferry. Due to illness last year, we returned early but are intending to do the trip again this April_June. The mid week overnight ferry from C to TI wasn't busy and we booked a 3 berth outside cabin with ensuite and for a 7m motorhome it was about €230 going south. We included the meal package but we wouldn't again, there was amuch better choice of food for not much more for dinner and breakfast. We chose to use the ferry going south saving all that driving into the sun and returned via Reggio Calabria and along the motorways and by roads. We intend to repeat this this year.

We stayed on a combination of sostas and ASCI sites but only managed to do the north and west of the island before abandoning. The site near Cefalu was a good starting point and rest site after the journey although we managed to arrive the same time as the C&CC tour. We then headed west and south

alan & sue


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## klyne (May 10, 2005)

If its of any interest there have been a couple of articles about Sicily recently, one in Practical Motorhome and the other in the last edition of MMM. David


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

Hi I'm in Sicily at the moment, fantastic island to overwinter on. The ferry from villa San Giovanni takes 20 minutes, not sure if you are limited on time with your comments regarding ferry from north, but the trip down Italian west coast was brilliant.


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## havingfun (Oct 31, 2007)

hi, lovely to hear, it,s our trip of choice this year, but still in england, that four letter word is holding us up, but it,s for our own good. hope to be there mid march now, but nice to know how good it is. cant wait to point the nose towards dover.

mags


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

it's 3 months since leaving Dover and haven't needed to pay for parking or water yet. 

Not sure about earlier comments re "mafia" although I have met several beggars asking (unsuccessfuly) for car park money. 

All I have experienced has been friendlyness and kindness from the Sicilian people.


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## havingfun (Oct 31, 2007)

can you post a quick travelogue of your jouney, i would be really interested,as it,s one bit we havent done yet, we have been as far down as florence and a bit on the east side before catching the ferry to greece, but the bottom end is all new to us.

thanks mags


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

Not sure I can be of much help Mags. I haven't been on a "route" I haven't been on a toll road yet and generally avoid touristy areas although I did stay in Pisa centre for the Wednesday locals market. 
Pretty much hugged the coast with diversions inland to hilltop villages or cities when needing a break from the sound of waves. 
Most of the time I wild camp which may be anywhere from city centre to beach. Some of the locations are on Flickr where I post most days.

https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/[email protected]/


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

There are 2 albums there which are "outside my door" and "wild camp spot"

all the photos are taken of locations where I have overnighted


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## havingfun (Oct 31, 2007)

fantastis photos, i can taste those veg, and olives, and i suppose thats home made brandy, all the spots you stayed, thats the sort of place we love, not quite as easy to blend in with an 8metre hobby, but it,s amazing where you can tuck in if you try, and those narrow roads, we have managed to get down a few of them, when tom tom says turn right, and i,m screaming no, no, no,,but we are still here to tell the tale.

you should start a thread, with your photos, because they really are special.


mags


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## mgdavid (Nov 27, 2014)

super pics, thanks; a very good eye for composition, have you studied it or are you a natural?


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

Thank you for the kind comments on the photos, it's a bit of a hobby. 
Street photography is favourite for me but people are in short supply here hence the landscapes and empty streets. 
Ferry was 85? regardless of size for 90 day return. 
Apologies if I've hijacked the thread


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## hblewett (Jan 28, 2008)

We are in Sicily now, having come on the Genoa - Palermo ferry before Christmas. Planning to return via the mailand to see Pompeii Naples etc.

We have mostly wildcamped except for now while were in an ACSI site to get the washing etc. done. I'd agree with all tha's been said by others. Don't know about issues on Messina ferry, but another Brit couple we met who came that way made no mention of any issues at he crossing.

If you use the Genoa ferry you might want to make sure that you buy your ticket on-line before you get to Genoa, or have the location of the ticket office on your satnav, and that you havethe ferry port destination on your satnav too (it was included in the POIs on our Garmin - I discovered later!). The ferry itself was fine as far as we were concerned, but it does get in at 20.00 hrs, so it's a good idea to know where you're headed for. We went to Frisbee Camping (motorhome stop actually) - details available on usual sources

For those who would like a long read, here is what we said about getting the ferry at Genoa:

_Finally we got to Genoa. 
Finding the docks was a challenge - the signing in Italy is only helpful if you have 20/20 vision, and can pick out the sign you want from the other fifteen on the same post while avoiding parked cars, pedestrians and vehicles coming from every direction, all interlaced with squadrons of scooters and motorcyclists slaloming through the traffic as if they are part of some video game.
Finding the ticket office was the next challenge - directly behind the docks. We were advised that without a ticket we couldn't stop on the docks, but were given helpful directions by the security man who spoke good English, together with a note to allow us the 'easy way', through the docks (without a ferry ticket) so we could get a waiver from security if we were stopped. He said it would be 3 km by road - well, it might be if there were no road closures (with a complete absence of any diversion signing) and you hit all the right turnings first time (which we didn't). Finding somewhere to turn is not an option when you realise that you're not getting to where you should be, and there are very few roundabouts to use to reverse direction and get back to the target area of town. 
Finding a parking space is a challenge - we eventually found the ticket office and parked on a yellow line - well … everyone else was! The helpful lady at the ticket office summoned her best English (much better that our best Italian!) to make sure we got what we wanted for our journey, cabin and on-board meals.
We managed to buy our ferry ticket and return just as one of the earlier mentioned law-enforcement troops was about to book us, but he kindly let us go without a parking ticket when we looked suitably humbled and said we were going right away: (no "I've stated so I've got to finish" - no doubt foreigners are too much trouble  )
Finding a legal parking space is an even bigger challenge - by now we were ready for a cuppa and something to eat. We had to go six miles, at about the speed of rush hour traffic in London or Bristol, before we found a place to stop.
Suitably refreshed and now with a map of the Genoa waterfront roads clearly printed in our heads we returned to the docks to await our ferry to Palermo._


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## hblewett (Jan 28, 2008)

StephandJohn said:


> Watching Gino's Islands in the Sun yesterday and we thought we might go to Sicily in May/June this year and then come up the coast through Puglia etc to Venice.
> We made it to Sorrento a few years ago but it looks like quite a slog down the coast from there so we are thinking about the ferry from Genoa to Palermo.
> So - is Sicily good for motorhomes? Has anyone done the ferry trip? It will cost about £220 but you obviously save on diesel, campsites if not wildcamping and the ferry across.
> Your thoughts and experiences gratefully received as usual.
> Steph


With regards to the OPs original two questions, my answers would be

Yes, it is very good for motorhomes, and

Yes, we did the ferry Genoa to Palermo, cost about 420 euros with 7.8 metre motorhome and overnight cabin.

It's a 20 hr trip, so if you've got stuff in the freezer, put it up to max and make sure it's completely full - they did chec the gas before we drove on to the ferry and there's no hook-up when you're on, but all our stuff was OK when we arrived.

If you're a long stayer on sites for the winter, Camping Luminoso, where we are at the moment, do a month for 8 euros a night, presumably others will be similar, but I don't know for sure


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## hblewett (Jan 28, 2008)

If anyone would like to read what we've done, I've attached our blogs for Sicily as pdfs


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## hblewett (Jan 28, 2008)

And here is our latest Sicily blog


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

420 euros one way from Genoa, 95 return across to Messing. You can get a lot of diesel for the difference.

Dick


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## square_steve (Jan 13, 2016)

+1 for that Dick, and my drive down the minor roads on the western side of Italy was a great way to meet local people and happen across real Italy before arriving at the southern holiday ghost towns more suited to scenes in apocalyptic movies.


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