# One little click...



## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

OK so I am not the most handy individual when it comes to DIY, especially MH electrics… can anyone help me I wonder?

Sitting in the van with EHU and our electric ALDE heating on 2kw I decided to turn it up to 3kw; within a minute I heard a click and the van control centre lit up to tell me I no longer had EHU!

As we were still connected I assume that a fuse had tripped for some reason and to confirm that the heating had switched off.

I checked the 230v wires and feed post and all was OK and working, so why was / is the van main panel still saying we have no EHU when we are clearly fully connected… do I need to flip back on a fuse tripped switch inside the van or something?? Maybe something wrong with the boiler but all is working fine when used on gas and the van heats up nicely again.

So please can anyone advise how to trace the reason for my panel still showing no EHU when I am actually connected; I have no idea where to look or how to start. Lifting and viewing all fuse boxes / chargers etc. all seem to be OK with all toggle switches in the on position… what else should I do check??

Advice please much appreciated otherwise I face another invoice from a dealer service when it could be something simple. :roll:


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

if someone could post a picture of what I should look for that would help.

Thanks in advance


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## tonka (Apr 24, 2006)

It would help to know what van you have.. May I suggest you add into your profile.. That way people can always look at your details in the panel on the left below your name and offer advise..


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## EJB (Aug 25, 2007)

You should have a trip switch box near the EHU inlet/charger.
It could also be a trip switch on the campsite (?) supply.

You may have covered these possibilities as it's not absolutely clear to me.
Good Luck :wink:


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

we have a carthago liner, but more a question of which electrical unit / fuse is the one I should be checking. Like most of these bloody instruction manuals, mine doesn't make clear where to look for such problems


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## GEMMY (Jun 19, 2006)

Are you on a site, if so then you have tripped the site supply, check where you are plugged in and see if there is a reset button.

tony


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

aikidoamigo said:


> if someone could post a picture of what I should look for that would help.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi.

How about this :wink: ..









ray.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

yes certainly not an issue with the supply coming in, had that checked. Something has clicked (cause i heard it) inside the van. The two main flip switches that we have are in the on position and seem fine so not sure where else I should look… is it likely to be one of the smaller blade type fuses?

Im sorry for such a crappy description of the problem but as I say not sure where else to look or even where to start.


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

If you heard a click then it's likely to be either a MCB (trips on excess current) or an RCD (trips on earth fault). Of the two, the RCD is more likely. Unfortunately I can't tell you where it will be on your van, hopefully someone with a similar van will see this and post its location.

You're looking for a largish trip switch with a test button on the front, very similar to the one you probably have on the mains consumer unit at home. They are usually located near or on the main panel or possibly near the battery charger or incoming mains cable.

Have you checked the integrity of your hook-up cable?
Best way is to borrow someone elses for a couple of minutes to test.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

I have two of those main fuse blocks, one with a green switch and one with a blue switch… both of which seem to be 'up' and in the 'on' position. What I forgot to say is that everything is working fine off the 12v so no power outs for any appliances.

If this 3Kw drain 'tripped' something then is it likely it would have effected something else / many other things? If so all else seems OK

I have another cable and we are home no so I will plug here tomorrow to see if that changes anything.

The mains cable disappears through an outside hole in the van and then is tough to trace once inside (you know what its like!)


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

You are not being very clear in your description so....
1. Does anything else that's mains powered still work? If not then you have clearly tripped your mains supply. My bet is the supply pillar you are plugged into. Check to see if that has tripped out. It's designed to do just that if you try and draw too much current. Switching to ,3KW could well have that effect.
2. If anything else mains powered does still work then it's an issue with your heating system.

Please clarify so the rest of us know where to start. Your 12v system is totally separate from the 240v system.


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

Set the heating back to 2 KW, on the side of the boiler is a little black plastic 'top hat'. If you unscrew it you will find a button. It is for resetting the boiler. If it is not that then perhaps the 3 KW portion of the heating element has gone. It could still work on a lower setting though. At worst you might need a new PCB for the boiler.

All this is guesswork as you have not said which Alde system it is and I am assuming it is the Compact 3000.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Hi

Yes I apologise again for the vagary.

1) the mains pillar that I hook into works, it is on, not tripped and working fine as I have had that checked.
2) All the van is functioning fine (except I can't test anything using 230v cause van says no EHU)
3) The main control panel says no EHU even though I am wired in and as per point 1 about the electrical supply seems to be OK
4) as a result of van control saying 'no ehu' the fridge comes on and auto selects gas supply (as it would), the gas heating works fine etc.

so

a) the main control panel says no ehu… is there a reset for that power coming in?
b) if was a problem with my boiler electrical element, how come the fridge shows no EHU (issue in circuit also effects fridge so not just boiler)
c) boiler and thermostat etc work fine on gas


:roll: :roll: 

Is it likely to be a cable issue?? never heard of that before and tomorrow can test with alternative cable into my mains at home


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Great I will try that on the boiler… yes sounds likely.

I think it is Alde 3010, don't have the book to hand


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

You still have not clarified anything so I am assuming that there is no 240 active in the vehicle. If there is a supply at the post then it could be the cable which has developed a fault.

One night off hookup will not hurt you (we are never on hookup). If you cannot do it, ask a neighbour for help in the morning.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

No 230 in the van because control panel says no ehu

Not sure what else I can clarify

Will switch the cable, reset boiler and try another power source tomorrow, thanks for all your help and advice


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## emmbeedee (Oct 31, 2008)

aikidoamigo said:


> No 230 in the van because control panel says no ehu
> 
> Not sure what else I can clarify
> 
> Will switch the cable, reset boiler and try another power source tomorrow, thanks for all your help and advice


Just because your panel says "no EHU" doesn't necessarily mean you have no EHU. Panels can give faulty indications you know. 
I've had two occasions where the in-built battery charger has failed. When this happens the panel tell-tale for EHU fails to light up but the sockets are still live. Why don't you plug something into a (240 volt) socket to check?


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## joedenise (Jul 20, 2007)

I would still think its a trip switch it could be anyware though mine is near the batteries 
Joe


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## RichardandMary (May 9, 2005)

As said earlier it sounds as if the RCD has tripped this can usually
be found close to where the EHU enters the van, also turn off and then back on all the switches you have found as sometimes they trip but still show they are on.

Hope this helps

Regards

R/M


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

Do you have a 240v table lamp ? - plug it in, does it light up ??


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## bigfrank3 (Mar 26, 2007)

When you are saying the two trips in the van are in the on position, they could have tripped but be showing incorrect. Turn each one off the on again.

Frank


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## ob1 (Sep 25, 2007)

Alkidoamigo - From memory your top setting will be using almost 13amps on its own, add another amp to power your charger, etc,etc, and almost certainly something has overloaded and tripped out, either the site post or something in the van to protect the system. Also is your van fitted with an anti-surge device (not an NCB) to protect your charger/distributor unit as this could have tripped? Ours used to do this for no apparent reason on our Frankia.

I always avoided the highest setting due to the current used and cannot really see where it can be used without running the risk of blowing something or other.

Ron


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

It is almost 24 hours since he posted. As it is another cold night, maybe we can assume that the problem is solved?


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Not enough amps at the supply point.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Hi Guys

and 'no' 747 we are still no better off as the thing still isnt working.

Home now, changed to a new hook up cable and plugged in at home, no difference. Van still showing no EHU

Have turned the two rcd fuses off and on again, no difference.
On turning the fridge on auto.. it looks for gas, so again confirmation that no EHU coming into anything else.
Our 3 pin sockets work if the inverter is on but not without, again showing no 230v going through to them.

I have to belive there is another trip switch somewhere between the external EHU wire that comes in and the two rcd typ switches I can see and have been turning off / on... but I cannot see anything and have searched high and low.

OB1, how to spot such an antisurge device? you could be right, but no easy mention of it in the manuals (you know what these foreign instruction books are like).

The three main blue electrical boxes, that seem to be controlling everything, I have looked at the major blade fuses and they seem OK.

On the ALDE 3010 there doesn't seem to be any sign of a reset switch, although, as mentioned the boiler is working fine on gas.

This has to be something to do with the van recognising (not in this case) the 230v supply... is there a seperate master switch or control that operates that and is that likely to be seperate and could be blown?

ALL the electical stuff is under the sofa (other than the water pump, air con and boiler units) unless something is hidden away there is no obvious switch that seems to have tripped.

I guess if we can't figure it out then I will have to call in the dealer but of course would really like to avoid that if possible (picture some engineer being gone over an hour just to change a fuse! lol)

Thanks in advance for any more guidance


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

ob1 said:


> Alkidoamigo - From memory your top setting will be using almost 13amps on its own, add another amp to power your charger, etc,etc, and almost certainly something has overloaded and tripped out, either the site post or something in the van to protect the system. Also is your van fitted with an anti-surge device (not an NCB) to protect your charger/distributor unit as this could have tripped? Ours used to do this for no apparent reason on our Frankia.
> 
> I always avoided the highest setting due to the current used and cannot really see where it can be used without running the risk of blowing something or other.
> 
> Ron


You are right Ron, not sure why I pushed it up to 3kw, I was being greedy (bit like why we drive over the limit sometimes I guess!) Going forward it will be on two as max.

Strange that something would trip in the van though and not at the post. As mentioned I heard something click (trip) and then the panel lit up to say no EHU.... what is driving me crazy is that I heard the noise from under the sofa but cannot seem to find a switch to flip as all the ones to do, I have done!!!


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## snowking62 (Nov 11, 2013)

*electrical switch help*

does anyone know what this switch is for on my motorhome it is a mooveo


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## EJB (Aug 25, 2007)

My AT Tracker has a fused switch in the wardrobe.
It switches the feed to the electric side of the heater.......when turning the heat up to 3000w once the heater failed on electric.
It was this fuse....it was an odd size fuse (10amp) and we coudn't find one in Norway. 
Sorting through my 'odds and ends' box I found an 8w fuse of the correct size and it works to this day.....never did find a suitable 10w fuse....but it doesn't matter!


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

EJB said:


> My AT Tracker has a fused switch in the wardrobe.
> It switches the feed to the electric side of the heater.......when turning the heat up to 3000w once the heater failed on electric.
> It was this fuse....it was an odd size fuse (10amp) and we coudn't find one in Norway.
> Sorting through my 'odds and ends' box I found an 8w fuse of the correct size and it works to this day.....never did find a suitable 10w fuse....but it doesn't matter!


which model heater did you have? any chance you can include a picture of the switch?

Thanks for your help.. I will start another search in the bedroom area! That is where our boiler water top up is, so it is a possibility.


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## EJB (Aug 25, 2007)

Just a normal wall switch with a fuse on the front panel.....picture coming later.


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## snowking62 (Nov 11, 2013)

*Re: electrical switch help*



snowking62 said:


> does anyone know what this switch is for on my motorhome it is a mooveo


is it a switch for using the front battery instead of the leisure battery?


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## trek (May 1, 2005)

Some continental manufacturers do not fit RCD's to the incoming supply inside the motorhome - they only fit MCB's I guess they assume the site supply bollard will protect you

you need to check to see if you have MCB's or RCD's

if you had a AC voltage detector 
eg like this
then you could use it to check the supply cable etc. , just holding the tip of the tool next to a live cable or switch box will show if there is 230vac or not 
if it is live then the tool tip glows red & with no need to dismantle anything

this should prove if whatever you were holding it next too was live providing you are close enough to it so you prove where the disconnection was

otherwise do you have an electricians test screwdriver (the type that glows when you touch a live feed) & are you competent in using it ?


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## EJB (Aug 25, 2007)

Click to enlarge.

The lower switch.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

*Re: electrical switch help*



snowking62 said:


> does anyone know what this switch is for on my motorhome it is a mooveo


Heater for the water tank?


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks for your advice and guidance, I will keep looking and let you know once I figure it out. These things often turn out to be something simple / obvious! (I hope)


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

*Re: electrical switch help*



snowking62 said:


> snowking62 said:
> 
> 
> > does anyone know what this switch is for on my motorhome it is a mooveo
> ...


That green switch looks like it could be an immersion heater for hot water to me, instead of using gas, or coil heater for diesel engine... subject to where it is placed I guess.


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## stewartwebr (May 27, 2005)

I hope you get the issue resolved, and for what it is worth I agree with others that it will be nothing more than a tripped breaker somewhere in your van.

The issue with the Alde on setting 3 is the huge current it draws leading to the tripping of the supply bollard or the protection in your van if you have other things switched on.

Once sorted I would suggest you look at having the Alde Load Monitor device fitted, I have had one in both my Burstners. It is a very simple coil which slips over the incoming live wire and the other end plugs into the Alde control panel. Once connected you can leave your Alde heating on the highest setting and the load monitor will monitor how many amps you are pulling into the van and reduce the load the Alde system is pulling to ensure you do exceed the maximum current you set the control panel at. Once the load reduces the Alde will increase the current again to the maximum setting. If my memory serves me correctly you can set the control panel to 6 amps 8 amps 10 amps and 16 amps.
The device cost 38GBP and was very simple to fit, but of course that is dependent on the location of the incoming power supply to the Alde Control panel. 

Best piece of add on I have added. No longer need to woory about reducing the heating when I stick on the electric kettle. The heating takes care of itself, and on full power which I feel it needs in the winter months.

Good luck hunting for the breaker


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

As a matter of interest, have you at least phoned the dealer to ask where it is. No owner of a similar van has answered so this surely must be the answer.

cabby


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

OK everyone, just by way of an update...

My friendly electrician across the street has just been over, it is a problem with the RCD... not the main flip on / off side which is working fine but the next part (forgive me I don't remember what he called it) that the power then passes through before reaching all the gadgets.

Seems power went past the RCD switch part OK but on reaching the next hurdle had given up the ghost. this 'fuse' if you like is labeled B16 meaning it is 16amp and he believe that although the 3KW of heating only should only be around 13amp.. with the 'turning-up' spike it could well have thrown a wobbly! Needless to say (for those interested) he recommended that I replace with one called C16 because although still 16amp rating it did allow for excess of spike to a small degree, such as turning up the heat etc.

Anyhow hopefully when we get the new one plugged in all should be OK... I will let you know if it proves not to be, but fingers crossed we should be OK again soon.

Thanks for all the help etc.


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## GEMMY (Jun 19, 2006)

Thanks for the update, doesn't happen with a lot of people :wink: 

tony


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

Trips can trip out without it showing. Try pressing the test switch on all the switches. Switch to off (all the way) and they on. There should be a reasonable force to switch it on as you are compressing a spring. If that does not work you need someone in the van who can trace faults.
The other thing to check is that the heater may have a reset switch somewhere. Try the instructions for its position. It is likely to be coloured red.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

aikidoamigo said:


> OK everyone, just by way of an update...
> 
> My friendly electrician across the street has just been over, it is a problem with the RCD... not the main flip on / off side which is working fine but the next part (forgive me I don't remember what he called it) that the power then passes through before reaching all the gadgets.
> 
> ...


OK, you don't have a problem with your RCD (Residual Current Detector), that has been proved to be OK by your tamed Sparky chap, what you have a problem with is one of your MCBs (Mini Circuit Breaker) which fits in the consumer unit along with the RCD, but you need to take the duff MCB to a electrical factors to make sure you get one with fits as the bracket it clips on can vary from unit to unit, they're fortunately not very expensive, and rarely give trouble.

Your sparky sounds like he knows his stuff, so useful to have around, when it comes to fitting the new one if you're not confident or sure of how to do it, it's a simple enough job, but not for everyone, you might get him to remove it for you, watch closely in case you do need to do it while away.

Make a note of the make of consumer unit for future reference too, I hope it all gets sorted for you.


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## 79144will (Sep 8, 2010)

We have a carthago m liner and it does the same ,but our`s is year 2000, so layout may be different,under the sofa by the kitchen we have all the electrical bit`s battery charger solar panel inputs,water pump ,and so on ,on the mains box we have a trip switch but it covers three switches on a bar ,our`s trips if we plug into a supply less than 6 amp`s, and with the loud click you describe,hope this may help ,regards Bill


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## 79144will (Sep 8, 2010)

I should have said when it trips on pluging in we allways have the heating on both 2/3000 watts,regards Bill


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> aikidoamigo said:
> 
> 
> > OK everyone, just by way of an update...
> ...


many thanks Kev... that is the faulty part you show in the image,although it is a 'double earth' I think he called it, so looks slightly different... our leccy guy has taken it off and is going to get the new one, says we 'could do with a better quality one' than was fitted originally and could do with a C not a B as stated previously. Expect things to be up and running before the frosts arrive. Thanks again!


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

79144will said:


> I should have said when it trips on pluging in we allways have the heating on both 2/3000 watts,regards Bill


Maybe have yours switched from the B16 to a C16 then too... my friend tells me it will then offer same protection but less likely to trip from small surges, the part only costs a few quid it seems


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

aikidoamigo said:


> Kev_n_Liz said:
> 
> 
> > aikidoamigo said:
> ...


Most likely double pole, it'll trip both the neutral and the live, so extra safe too, sod all diff in the price, just a tight wad builder, single pole only trips the live.

You can also get double pole sockets too, I fitted all mine as DPs, much safer.


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

Just to confirm…. MCB replaced and all up and working again.

Thanks everyone and hope this thread proves useful to others!

Kind regards


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Do love it when we get a full response with the answers.

cabby


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