# Adria Twin Solar Panel Installation



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

This is modification number 4, installation of a 120w solar panel, Schaudt regulator, ammeter and a pair of Elecsol 100Ah batteries.
As with my other mod's, this is not a 'how to' guide but how I did it.

I researched solar panels in detail and could not find a decent explanation of why there is such a huge price difference for similar spec panels despite asking two salesmen at motorhome shows. I came to the conclusion that you pay for the quality of the build, wiring and connections which is why I chose the AKT panel which I consider to be a decent value/quality balance.

*Parts*
120w AKT Solar Panel Perfect size and just enough wiring to reach the Elektroblock.
Schaudt LR 1218 Regulator
Schaudt IT 300 Ammeter
Roof Cable Entry Gland
Sikaflex 252
Also used about 5 meters of 0.5mm square 3 core standard cable available anywhere. This is for the ammeter.

*For the batteries I used:*
Two of these
Battery connectors, insulators and wire

There are various ways of fitting and connecting solar panels. I used Schaudt equipment because it connects neatly to the Elektroblock, charges both leisure and starter batteries (giving priority to the leisure battery) and it's decent quality. I also opted for Sikaflex 252 but you pays your money and takes your choice.
A few points to note: Keep the panel covered during fitment to keep output to a minimum and prevent damage. Keep exposed wires insulated until you are ready to connect, then connect in the correct order. keep a gap between the panel and your roof to allow cooling air to flow around the panel. The panel efficiency decreases with temperature increase.

First job was to sort some brackets to hold the panel. I used 2mm stainless sheet bent at 90 degrees because I had some. You can use the plastic mounting brackets or alloy angle but this will need plating and/or priming.









I placed the solar panel on top of the van on blocks at the required height then offered up the brackets and marked them for shaping because the top of the van curved. They were then riveted to the panel with a little sealant between the mating surfaces to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. I drilled a few of holes in the bracket feet to give the Sikaflex something to get hold of.









You can see the shaped brackets that follow the roof contour. (yes, I know the grass needs cutting!)









Added a 'P' clip to support the wiring.









Marked out the roof.









Bonded the panel to the roof and drilled a 30mm hole for the wiring and used some small bore pipe to edge the hole and protect the wiring. Need to be careful drilling the roof because you need to avoid the internal framework. On my van, the frames are where the Omnistore canopy mountings are fitted.









Roof cable entry gland bonded into position.









The wiring passes into the wardrobe.









Then rearwards to the left rear top corner (There is a clear run for wiring from front to rear just below the roof line which you will see later)









Fitted the ammeter.









And ran the wiring back initially to the wardrobe TV wiring access point, then on to the rear corner as before. I had already installed 'pull through' wires and left them in position when I installed reversing camera wiring. The cupboard above the sink and the trim over the sliding door is removed in this photo to show the wiring channel but it's not necessary. Just remove a couple of screws and pull the plastic trim back and feed the wires through to the wardrobe.









All connected with the new batteries installed (regulator is the blue box on the left). Note that my Elektroblock did not have a wire connected internally to position 2 of the solar regulator connector so I had to modify the wiring slightly by removing the wire from the regulator connector position 2 and rout it to the starter battery wire at terminal 3.









The finished panel.









One thing I forgot to photograph was the wiring from the top left corner of the van into the battery compartment. It's fairly straightforward because the wires drop down behind the rear light fitting and then pass into the electrical compartment.

Haven't used it in anger yet but fairly impressed with the performance when the sun eventually came out. With the starter and leisure batteries discharged sufficiently, there was about 5 amps going to the leisure battery and 4 amps to the starter battery.

Nick.


----------



## p-c (Oct 27, 2007)

Great, helpful info for those of us thinking of going solar.
p-c


----------



## dgg18mlr (Nov 4, 2009)

Nick - an excellent set of instructions - thank you.

The only thing I am trying to work out is how to get the cables from the spot where they will come into the van, top right in wardrobe where removable 'TV antenae' access is, to the electrics area under the bed. From your photos they were routed behind the cupboards above the bed and down the corner to the light cluster. 

How do you get them behind the cupboards without a pull through string being previously in place?


----------



## homenaway (Jul 27, 2005)

Hi,
Interesting article - and your previous ones as well!

I recently fitted an 80w panel to the roof of our Twin with a similar set up but lengthwise as we don't have a TV aerial.

I ran the cables from the aerial access panel inside the wardrobe roof and down the rear wardrobe panel into the fridge top vent cavity well clipped to the side panel then through the end panel and into the "battery box" ensuring that any holes were sealed with flexible silicon sealant.

I have a Morningstar Sunsaver duo regulator (as I still have the original Adria gel battery and a lead acid backup for running the tv etc so not connected together) mounted under the bed, and intend to buy their remote meter later so I didn't use the Schaudt components. 

The panel has performed well during our trip to Germany and we've always had plenty of 12v power (I've replaced all the lamps with LED's)

Steve


----------



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

dgg18mlr said:


> Nick - an excellent set of instructions - thank you.
> 
> The only thing I am trying to work out is how to get the cables from the spot where they will come into the van, top right in wardrobe where removable 'TV antenae' access is, to the electrics area under the bed. From your photos they were routed behind the cupboards above the bed and down the corner to the light cluster.
> 
> How do you get them behind the cupboards without a pull through string being previously in place?


Hi,

I used existing wiring routing but you could use Steve's idea which is more direct. 
To install a pull through I used a semi rigid wire sliding it down the ledge just below the roof line. Pull back the plastic lining above the sliding door and poke the semi rigid wire along the ledge. It will go past the antenna access panel in the wardrobe and back to the top left corner of the van. In my photo, I had the cupboard above the sink removed but you could get away with just pulling back the plastic lining.


----------



## Easyriders (May 16, 2011)

Not strictly on topic, but hope Nick or someone else can help. We want to put another mains socket into our Adria Twin 2005, as it only has one at the moment, in a really silly place - just under the sink. We'd like one on the other side of the van, by the table.

Our mains supply plugs in with a kettle type plug by the Elektroblock. There are two kettle type sockets, only one being used. We've tried swapping sockets, both work fine.

So it should be a simple thing to get the correct wire and plug to wire another mains socket into the spare. The trouble is, where can we route the wires? How do we know where the wall, floor or roof cavities are without ripping the van apart? The wiring diagram we have is no help on this.

Any help appreciated.


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Just a small thought, trying to get the 'standard' 2 X 4mm sq cables through the roof is a pain, as you need 2 glands and some sort of housing.

On our trailer/RV, we changed the 2 X 4mm to a piece of 6mm twin HO7 (TRS in old money) cable, which then can go through a standard IP67 cable gland in the roof panel:










Both feeds go into a sealed box which houses the individual blocking diodes:










We took the 3 unsheathed 6mm cables down through the connection box and roof panel, the box is IP67 and sealed to the roof with Sikaflex 221, it is also bolted through the roof supports.










Might help someone thinking about doing something similar.

Peter


----------



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Easyriders said:


> Not strictly on topic, but hope Nick or someone else can help. We want to put another mains socket into our Adria Twin 2005, as it only has one at the moment, in a really silly place - just under the sink. We'd like one on the other side of the van, by the table.
> 
> Our mains supply plugs in with a kettle type plug by the Elektroblock. There are two kettle type sockets, only one being used. We've tried swapping sockets, both work fine.
> 
> ...


Sorry, I can't help with that. I haven't run any wiring in on that side of the van. I would guess that the same channel runs along the roof line on the right side so you could take your wire from the Elektroblock, up past the left rear light and over the top behind the removable plastic trim. You could poke a pull through along the right channel but i don't know how you would get at the other end where the socket will be.

If you see a standard 2005 Ducato van, it might be worth taking a look inside for some ideas.


----------



## Easyriders (May 16, 2011)

Thank you Nick, sure that would help. It would be handy if MH builders would give a plan of just where the cavities, wires, pipes etc went!

It's all ok until you want to make an adaptation (or until something goes wrong). I guess the same goes for houses, it isn't clear what the routing is for cables, pipes etc, unless you draw a plan (we did when we rewired and replumbed our house).

In our case, the extra"kettle" socket was clearly intended to provide extra mains sockets if required, but the original owner didn't want to pay the extra to have them fitted.

Thank you again for the advice.


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

NTG said:


> Battery connectors, insulators and wire
> 
> Nick.


Thanks for taking the time and trouble to provide good quality pictures and the links, the battery one in particular, you've just save me a small fortune, as I'd not seen this company.

Cheers Nick.


----------



## uphighlandway (Dec 16, 2010)

*club adria*

Hi,
You would be really useful at a club adria meeting if only to see all the work that you have done to your twin and met up with fellow adria owners. If you're not a member please contact Pete Phillips, chairman, on 07534953205.
Dave (uphighlandway)


----------



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> NTG said:
> 
> 
> > Battery connectors, insulators and wire
> ...


You're welcome Kev. It's good to know the posts are helpful.


----------



## NTG (Dec 16, 2011)

*Re: club adria*



uphighlandway said:


> Hi,
> You would be really useful at a club adria meeting if only to see all the work that you have done to your twin and met up with fellow adria owners. If you're not a member please contact Pete Phillips, chairman, on 07534953205.
> Dave (uphighlandway)


Thanks for the invitation Dave.


----------



## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

They'll pay you to join of course :lol:


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Techno100 said:


> They'll pay you to join of course :lol:


I never had you down as a septic Andy


----------



## Snunkie (Mar 21, 2011)

Very useful thank you!


----------



## Christine600 (Jan 20, 2011)

listerdiesel said:


> We took the 3 unsheathed 6mm cables down through the connection box and roof panel, the box is IP67 and sealed to the roof with Sikaflex 221, it is also bolted through the roof supports.
> 
> Peter


This is where I am at now. And in my box very similar to this one that Listerdiesel used:










...we think it should be OK to join cables using these:










...but what would be the best way to connect the blocking diodes? Like these?










...just use the same connectors perhaps?


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

I'd not use what we call 'Chocolate Blocks' (they used to be brown in years gone by) as they tend to cut the strands unless you use crimp ferrules on the wires.

The diodes you can also crimp a bootlace onto, or use heavier ones like we did and you get decent screw terminals into the bargain. Those are 6A diodes by the way, don't forget that if using as blocking diodes.

These sort of terminal blocks are good as they give you multiple connections and a firm base:

http://www.te.com/catalog/connectors/terminal-blocks/menu/en/17844

These:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251157924015

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231154222591

We've probably still got some of those bolted terminal diodes.

Peter

Edit:

You could use two diodes in a bridge like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290914270391

as blocking diodes for two panels, or two diodes in parallel for one panel. I've got loads of these, drop me a PM with your address and I'll post a couple on Monday.


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Why do you need these diodes, I thought each panel already had one in the box that it's leads emerge from. So the spec says, anyway.


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

tugboat said:


> Why do you need these diodes, I thought each panel already had one in the box that it's leads emerge from. So the spec says, anyway.


They are not blocking diodes, Tuggers, they are inverse diodes.

Blocking diodes prevent reverse current flowing back into the panel, ie when there is no sunlight but the battery is still connected to the panel. **

Inverse diodes prevent against a reversed polarity connection.

** Doesn't normally happen as most controllers prevent back flow, but when you have two panels feeding one controller, it keeps them separate from each other, preventing one panel feeding back into t'other.

Peter


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

Hi Peter, sorry if I'm being a bit thick here!

I have 2 100W panels to fit this week when I get my van back from some warranty work.

I have ordered a couple of these to connect the 2 panels in parallel and give me 2 cables to feed down to the controller.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251125930829&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

Provided I'm careful with marking polarity on the cables, am I safe doing that or must I use these inverse diodes (a new term for me) in the supply line. I had hoped to avoid sticking a square box on the roof.

Thanks for the advice.
Geoff.


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Inverse diodes should be already fitted in the junction box on the back of the panel.

Fitting blocking diodes when you have more than 1 panel is good practice but by no means obligatory.

Peter


----------



## tugboat (Sep 14, 2013)

OK, that's great, thanks very much.


----------



## Christine600 (Jan 20, 2011)

Would these knobs we use to get the cables into the box be watertight even if fitted on the front of the box and the MH? With wind and rain hitting them in 70 m/h?



listerdiesel said:


> I'd not use what we call 'Chocolate Blocks'


Thanks - we got something better like you suggested.



listerdiesel said:


> Those are 6A diodes by the way


Ours are more heavy duty - but looks the same - so they should be OK. The guy at the store did some calculations and added a safety margin.



listerdiesel said:


> I've got loads of these, drop me a PM with your address and I'll post a couple on Monday.


Thanks again, but they would probably need 3-4 weeks to clear customs since I am in Norway.


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Are the 'knobs' cable glands? Ours are IP68 rating, never had a drop of water through them.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-glands/3658488/

Peter


----------



## Christine600 (Jan 20, 2011)

listerdiesel said:


> Are the 'knobs' cable glands? Ours are IP68 rating, never had a drop of water through them.
> 
> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-glands/3658488/
> 
> Peter


Yes, cable glands. And thank you again for your help!


----------

