# eura mobil heat exchanger



## adymazz

I have recently acquired a 2007 Eura Mobil 770 and a fine motor home it is.
My question is with regards to the heat exchanger.When I press the 2 toggle switches behind the passenger seat it blows air but its cold air not hot. 
Anybody any ideas please?....Adrian


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## teemyob

*hot*

Engine needs to be running and hot!

?

TM


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## 747

My Burstner (with a fairly similar system) has a valve on the hot water feed from the engine to turn the flow off in warm weather when it is not needed. Yours will possibly have the same.


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## adymazz

Thanks for your responses.
Yes the engine and coolant were hot.
Ive had a look under the bonnet and where the blower is situated but I am mystified as i cant see any valve of any description.I'm sure you are right about the valve.
Anybody any ideas where it may be located?
Cheers Adrian


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## Chudders

Hetare controls in the cab need to be on as well, the fan switches only blow the air at the temperature you have set on the Fiat base vehicle heating controls. In my experience vea very efficient system. Gets too hot at times.
Dave


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## bognormike

the unit fitted to our old Pilote had a heat shut off switch on the unit itself - it effectively turned off the water supply from the main heater. Normal hoses ran water from the main heater unit to the separate unit under the seat. Very efficient - we always got too hot when it was running!


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## Chudders

bognormike said:


> the unit fitted to our old Pilote had a heat shut off switch on the unit itself - it effectively turned off the water supply from the main heater. Normal hoses ran water from the main heater unit to the separate unit under the seat. Very efficient - we always got too hot when it was running!


Im, pretty sure that there is no shut off valve on the Euramobil system. At least nothing Iv,e found and no mention in any handbook. I am sure you just set the cab controls and then run the additional fans as required (1 switch on is half speed Both switched on is full speed.) You do however have to have the habitation electrics switched on and on all models I have seen the lighting control as well.
Dave


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## adymazz

Thanks for all your comments.
I just tried the cab heating and its blowing hot but the habitation is still blowing cold. I'm warming t(no pun intended) to the valve theory so I'm going to look inside the box where the pipes go to


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## Chudders

If you find a valve let me know, I have never found (or needed one) if there is no valve I reckon its an air lock. I was told at one time at a motorhome garage that if the radiator/anti freeze is changed in the vehicle radiator the heat exchanger may need bleeding. Never had to do it myself but have had coolant changed at service .


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## adymazz

I just checked the water pipes to the box under the seat and they are stone cold. It could be an airlock but my money is on a valve turned off somewhere under the bonnet but god only knows where.
I'm now officially lost for ideas.
Thanks again for all responses.
Adrian


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## Chudders

I,ve got a 2006 EM Integra but I suspect much the same mechanically and with heater etc as yours. I will go and have a look in a minute to see if I can see anything. Out of interest how long have you run the fans for. It does sometimes take a while for the heat to get to the exchanger after the fans are turned on.
Gonna go and have a look now, watch this space.
Dave


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## adymazz

I ran the fans for about 10 mins with the engine fully warm


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## Chudders

I agree should certainly be working in that time. Been out to motorhome, checked for a valve but no trace as far as I can tell. Also double checked in the handbook which tells you how to operate the habitation supplemantary heating via the heat exchanger but no mention of any valve just how it works and the switches.
If you do get it sorted you will find it very efficientbut the fan is a bit noisey when on full power
As I said if you do find one pse let me know.
Dave


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## HarleyDave

And me please

Ours works fine although we do try not to travel when it's cold enough to need it

Ok Ok I'm a wuss I know

Cheers

Dave


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## adymazz

Thanks all and sundry for your help.
I'll just have to freeze!!!!!!!!!!!


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## HarleyDave

Sometimes we close the curtains behind the cab - that keeps a bit of the (meagre) heat in from the Ducato "heater"

Cheers

Dave


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## adymazz

I have now traced the two water pipes from the exchanger box and they ,as expected go to the cab heater and tee off the heater pipes,there is no valve so I can't understand why these two aforementioned pipes should be cold when the cab heater is blowing hot.
The suggestion of air in the system is a possibility ,does anyone know how this could be bleeded?
Cheers Adrian


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## Chudders

Has the coolant been changed. I was advised as I mentioned that the system may need the air bled out. Sorry can,t enlighten you as to how. I would be inclined to look at the heat exchanger where the pipes connect and see if there is a bleed valve or I suppose somehow the incoming pipe would need to be slackened off to see if air or water come out
Sorry no other ideas but please let us EM owners know if you get it sorted.


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## IanA

In the absence of a bleed valve, usual way of bleeding is to find the highest connection, slacken clamp and pull hose off a little bit until water comes out. Put an old towel below the connection to catch any leakage. Don't forget to top up the header tank after bleeding.


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## 91502

If the cab heater is working fine and there is an airlock then it must between the cab heater section and heat exchanger or more likely inside the exchanger so there is no point in bleeding from the highest point in the entire cooling system as it won't release the air from the rear part of the system.
I would clamp the pipe on the return side of the rear system and then release the pipe at the heat exchanger and make sure water flows out and releases any air inside.
You should then feel the flow pipe getting hot and replace the return pipe. 
The only problem I can see is I guess this is all inside your van?
The other option is a pressure bleeding machine.
James


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## 747

What most of you are forgetting is that the cooling system runs at a small pressure. If you briefly run the engine to ensure some pressure and then slacken the clip on the top hose of the heat exchanger, you will get any air out (and some fluid, so be prepared  ).

You will have to remember this will only work with the engine hot enough for the thermostat to be open, so wear gloves for when the warm stuff starts coming out.


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## adymazz

Thanks again for your comments but it appears to me that the pipes are soldered where they enter the heat exchanger so can't be undone.
I have tried to open the heat exchanger but so far it's got the better of me and ad I'm not mechanically minded I'm reluctant to try and force it open


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## 91502

747 said:


> What most of you are forgetting is that the cooling system runs at a small pressure. If you briefly run the engine to ensure some pressure and then slacken the clip on the top hose of the heat exchanger, you will get any air out (and some fluid, so be prepared  ).
> 
> You will have to remember this will only work with the engine hot enough for the thermostat to be open, so wear gloves for when the warm stuff starts coming out.


Yes but when bleeding a cooling system you leave the pressure cap off to allow you to top up the system as the air leaves.

James


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## 747

JP said:


> 747 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What most of you are forgetting is that the cooling system runs at a small pressure. If you briefly run the engine to ensure some pressure and then slacken the clip on the top hose of the heat exchanger, you will get any air out (and some fluid, so be prepared  ).
> 
> You will have to remember this will only work with the engine hot enough for the thermostat to be open, so wear gloves for when the warm stuff starts coming out.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but when bleeding a cooling system you leave the pressure cap off to allow you to top up the system as the air leaves.
> 
> James
Click to expand...

That is not necessary when you just want rid of a spoonful of air in a heater matrix.


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## adymazz

As far as I can establish both pipes which run from the heater matrix junction to the heat exchanger are stone cold and are each about 6 ft long.i can't see how I can bleed these.


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## 747

They may be teed off under the bonnet (mine are). As long as you know which is the top one at the heater, you can bleed it from there. With a bit of ingenuity, you might even be able to disconnect the hose, add a bit on and feed it into the expansion chamber (where you top up). If you are not mechanically minded, any motor mechanic can do it easily.


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## adymazz

Eureka.....i found it.
On closer inspection under the bonnet i notice that the heater pipes go about their business in the normal manner and the 2 pipes to the heat exchanger have been joined to each other by a plug and are thus going nowhere and not receiving a feed.
i don't know if this is a factory plug or if they have been detached and disabled due to a malfunction in the heat exchanger in the past.To be honest i'm not prepared to find out .I think i will leave all alone as knowing me i will make matter worse not better. I think i can live without a pre -heated habitation area bearing in mine most of my use is summer!!!
Thanks again one and all for your comments and ideas, much appreciated.
Cheers Adrian


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