# extra leisure battery plus invertor or geny?



## ShinyFiat (Jun 2, 2009)

hi all,

was wondering what wouldbe best, i want the freedom so that we are not always relying on hook-up, so is it either additional leisure batteries plus a good invertor or go for a geny??

or do i still need additional resources such as solar panel??

an ideas/recommendations would be most appreciated.

many thanks

j


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## inkey-2008 (May 24, 2008)

The first thing I would get are 85watt solar panels 120amphr battery and then the inverter or make sure all tv's etc are 12v.

The genny last, depends on how much you run off the battery, or in which country you are in (dull cloudy days don't help solar panels. They still work but at a reduced rate) we have only need a genny on a very few occasions. 

You need to work out all the wattages of what you will use and how long then work out how much power you need to make to cover it.

Have a back through past posts I am sure I have seen some charts that list all you need to know.

Andy


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## citroennut (May 16, 2005)

hi j,
i run 4x 85 ah batteries with two solar panels and an inverter. that said it will depend upon your energy requirements.
cheers
simon


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## short-stick (Jul 23, 2007)

I would work out what my trips away involve before jumping in. For example, I have a Bessacarr E560 motorhome, I think the leisure battery is 95amp or therabouts. When we go away, either on long trip in France or in UK, we move on after every 1 or 2 nights when we use Aires, if we are stopping longer we use a campsite with hookup. Everything in the van is 12v except the microwave. We have halogen lights (lots) and a combined 12v TV DVD, we have yet to run short of battery power anywhere, even when using the heating, and after our journey to the next stop the battery is topped up enough to be OK. I have an inverter, we only use this for the laptop or charging phones or using a slow cooker, but only whilst travelling so we don't drain the battery. Worst case, if we ran short of 12v we can switch to the chassis battery in an emergency, assuming we don't run it down so we can't start the engine! 
Horses for courses I guess.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

I would use the van first and see if I actually had a problem 8O


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## 106559 (Aug 19, 2007)

eddievanbitz said:


> I would use the van first and see if I actually had a problem 8O


 Now there's a cunning plan! :lol: Great advice and from someone who would have a 'personal interest' Most magnanimous Eddie. (Oh my, I hope I spelled that correctly) t h a t , seems O.K. :lol:


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## short-stick (Jul 23, 2007)

The very best advice I have seen in a long time...
It is my motto too


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

derekfaeberwick said:


> eddievanbitz said:
> 
> 
> > I would use the van first and see if I actually had a problem 8O
> ...


Derek, isn't that a very big bottle of bubbly? LOL

Eddie :lol:


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

Eddie is wrong again!
Having such bits of kit in a motorhome is not because you need it its just in case you might! To be sure, to be sure !

(He,s not wrong really but us lads do like to have our toys)

C.


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## eddievanbitz (May 1, 2005)

Again Clive? :lol: Again?


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

See if this helps you any.

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopict-65762-.html

Kev


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

There,s even a bit here !
http://www.motts.org/HOOKUPS.htm

C.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks Clive, I learned something, never to look at your web site, *only kidding*

the Ohms bit "OHMS this is the unit of electrical RESISTANCE. Without any resistance the AMPS would be unlimited and the circuit breakers would open with a BANG!

OHMS = VOLTS /AMPS. So for your 2400 watt domestic kettle which takes 10 amps = 240 /10 = 24 ohms.

This you can measure with your multi-meter set to OHMS range to confirm.

All this is derived from OHMS LAW." was very informative, I shall add it to my list of stuff I hope I don't need to use, it's all scary stuff this electrickery.

Kev :black:


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## AberdeenAngus (Jul 26, 2008)

Beware though that Ohms law only works for 240v appliances where they are just a simple heating element e.g. kettle, curling tongs etc

If it has anything like a motor in it (like a fan) then your ohm meter won't tell the truth.

You are better off just getting the Amps from the label.
Or, if the label doesn't show Amps then read the Watts and divide by 250 to get the Amps. (the maths is easier than using 240 and the answer is near enough). 

e.g. 1000watts hair dryer = 1000/250 = 4 Amps

Also, if the appliance has a transformer in it like a mobile phone or laptop charger, then don't even bother counting it when you are on hook-up as it'll be drawing next to no Amps.


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

Thats why I picked a kettle!

Not a light bulb which increases its resistance by a factor of 10 or 20 when it warms up or an inductive devise where impedance and phase angle come in. Power factor .... Oh no.

Impedance is the resistance to an AC voltage for devices that are not purely resistive. But thats a much deeper topic.

Nuf said.

C.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks AA, I'll go lie down now.


Kev.


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

Oh Kev,
I have hardly started. 
Motors have "back EMF". 

But whatever turns your headache on!


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

A little knowledge at a time is quite sufficient Mr Mott ta, we don't want to tire our little grey cells do we.

So long as I can suss out if everything is OK, that's all I need to know, higher electrical theory is a step too far and only for people who need it in the course of their work, us lesser mortals will manage without it, well this one will anyhoo, I'll ask if I need to know more than I know now.

Kev.


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## 115430 (Aug 11, 2008)

Hi All

In reply to the original question, I too have been contemplating what is needed to avoid the need for EHU on our trips away so we can use some of the "away from it all" sites without worrying too much about rationing the power use--plus save some camp site fees. 

The common solution is to fit a solar panel and I can understand (up to a point) the argument for these but they do have limitations re sunshine/output etc which has been described in other posts and I won't repeat them here. 

My decision --- which fits my own circumstances and MAY help the original poster --- is to reduce the loads (fit LED lights for starters) and increase the capacity of the leisure battery, THEN I'm going to fit a battery to battery charger to;

A, put more energy into the leisure battery than the onboard charger.
B, charge the battery faster when the vehicle is moving.

I came to this conclusion as we have never stayed on site for longer than 4 nights (so far) and it nearly always rains or is cloudy at some time so the UK weather is just too unreliable to rely on a solar panel. (I'm too young to retire to Spain for the winter  ) but I CAN control when I switch the engine on and recharge the batteries.

Total cost seems on par with a solar solution though and I would be interested if other people have gone for the same solution and their feedback.

Cheers

Sadsack


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Batt to batt sounds interesting, not seen one of those before, 

"I CAN control when I switch the engine on and recharge the batteries. " not a good idea as at idle you'd get little or no charge, just warm the planet up a little.

Kev.


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## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

"Total cost seems on par with a solar solution though and I would be interested if other people have gone for the same solution and their feedback."

Yes, I have a battery to battery charger. Does what it says on the tin. Whether it is the right solution for someone is down to the detail of their van use. I think in many cases where it is useful, a third battery may be just as useful.

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Where can I get a battery to battery charger?


Kev.


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## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

Roadpro or ODB.

Dave


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## karlb (Feb 22, 2009)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Batt to batt sounds interesting, not seen one of those before,
> 
> "I CAN control when I switch the engine on and recharge the batteries. " not a good idea as at idle you'd get little or no charge, just warm the planet up a little.
> 
> Kev.


last time i checked i was getting 40amps from a 75amp alternator on a transit on tickover, so more than a little i would suggest, this was checked because the van had a very,very large audio system in the back and was used as a demo at shows.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I stand corrected then, my reasoning is based on if you sit at night with your headlights on, say at a junction, and your engine is ticking over the lights will dim, then get much brighter as soon as you touch the gas, maybe it's different in your van, or it's been adjusted.

Kev.


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