# Spanish Pyrenees



## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

With such a grismal day out there today it’s time to do some planning for my 2014 early summer bimble. Quite why I bother with a plan I don’t know as I never stick to them but I just feel I need to have one.

I have 3 weeks to get from Calais/Dunkerque to Barcelona.

On the way down I’d really like to spend some time in Jura but the rest of eastern France doesn’t excite me much so I might give that a miss.

Whichever route I take to the south, and I'm quite happy to just wander that bit, I’ll aim for the Perpignan area and then go west along the French side of the Pyrenees to the Atlantic coast and this is where I’m looking for some recommendations/advice.

My plan is to turn the corner at Biarritz/San Sebastian and come back along the Spanish side of the mountains but I know absolutely nothing about that part of Spain.

I like rural/walking/cycling/wilding, with the occasional taste of civilisation.

Any members “got the T Shirt” for that part of Spain?


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## Gary1944 (Feb 21, 2009)

Hi Tony,

A couple of places we have been to in this area are San Sebastian, a lovely seaside town with a real sense of style and don't miss the "pinchos", their version of the "tapas". They are a bit bigger and you pay for how many you eat based on the cocktail sticks (one per dish), delicious. We used the Aire near the University, a good walk to the centre but very well placed and decent bourne and marked spaces. 

The other fave is Burgos. We used the ACSI site with a good bus service to the centre. And a very nice centre with a stunning Cathedral and one of the entry gates to the city near the river looks great. Also lots of good value restaurants. Spot the theme! We do like our food!!

I am sure there will be many more recommendations, the coast of Green Spain is lovely. Places like Castro Urdiales are lovely, but we haven't stayed there with the van,

Have fun.

Gary.


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## selstrom (May 23, 2005)

Have you thought of zig zagging between France and Spain, great views and lots of places to camp.


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## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

selstrom said:


> Have you thought of zig zagging between France and Spain, great views and lots of places to camp.


Sounds an interesting idea - are there many/any places to zig and zag from one side to the other without using motorways?


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

The only two places I have not really enjoyed are Irun (France / Spain) in the north and the Perpignon to Figueras crossing in the south.
I think we have tried all of the other official routes into Spain.
This autumn we took the road coming home from Pamploma heading on a quiet road into France; wonderful.
We had travelled south on our way out through Pau and on a very easy road through a long tunnel (free) into Spain.
Previously we crossed into Spain just to the north of Andorra which again was a delight, if a bit wiggly at one point.
None of these routes involve motorways and only the road just north of Andorra will be really slow at times.
Most of these roads will have Centres for hill-walking and all have some delightful views.
The two main roads to the north and south come under the heading of rat races and queues at times.

Alan


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## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

tonyt said:


> With such a grismal day out there today it's time to do some planning for my 2014 early summer bimble. Quite why I bother with a plan I don't know as I never stick to them but I just feel I need to have one.
> 
> I have 3 weeks to get from Calais/Dunkerque to Barcelona.
> 
> ...


Tony

It is strange that you have posted this topic now because I was going to post today about touring the Pyrenees. I have wanted to visit the region ever since I used to fly over it regularly and could see its qualities.

I shall follow the thread with interest but I would also like to add a specific question, without hijacking your thread Tony.

We have booked to go ski-ing in Andorra at the end of Jan. While we are there I would like to do some reconnaissance for the summer.

My question is; how well are the roads kept free of snow/ice? If I hire a car should it be a 4Xwheel drive?

Geoff


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## blaine (May 1, 2005)

We had a lovely crossing from Spain to France one year via Col de Pourtalet A136 [Spain] D934 [France] direction of Pau, probably changed numbers!
There is a fantastic aire around Lac Artouste, just before Gabas. Lots to do there. It is a major skiing area but in summer the cable cars take you over to a beautiful valley then you can take the scariest train ride which clings to the side of the mountain to the reservoir above, true French Health and Safety style.... There was amazing mountain bike competition. 
Lots of Eagles and other wild life
We went from there to Laruns to another aire and again loved the town. We went to a local "Pilotte"? game one evening.
As anyone will agree it depends what "floats your boat"


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

We drove to Southern Spain and back last year and went either side of Andorra and loved the Pyrenees, the roads were generally good, although do not venture near Andorra on a Saturday as the roads are clogged totally and access to Andorra goes at the rate of the average "escargot" (after cooking).

I can happily suggest alternative ways of getting there - the roads in South West France are good and it is easy to avoid the autoroutes and yet still have great roads.

If you go past us, do let me know and we will see what we can do - we have a brand new aire in our local town, which is not in any books (yet) AFAIK. )and lots of space at our house as other MHF users can testify....)

Dave


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## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

Hi Tony

In May I drove up from Calpe - Valencia - Barcelona - into France and all the way up the coast to Cap d'Agde. It was all very beautiful, but I found the French part a bit restrictive - absolutely nowhere to stop. Can't offer any rec's of aires, being an ACSI site user. 

The Montpelier/ Carcassonne/ Narbonne/ Beziers area seemed to be quite depressed and rundown. I enjoyed my visit to the castle at Carcassonne though even though it's a bit of a tourist trap.

A warning - I don't remember the name of the place but the "low cost shopping precincts" just on the Spanish side of the border looked decidedly dodgy and someone attempted to direct me to the loneliest corner of the parking when there were spots right outside the door. I pressed on...

The area around Lourdes and up the valley into the mountains, to Argeles Gazost, Cauterets, Pont d'Espagne, Col de Tourmalet, Cirque de Gavarnie are awesome. There are spectacular walks in the mountains in national park surroundings Lac de Gaube and another one in the Cirque are not to be missed.

In June, I travelled from Amboise to Lausanne via the Jura. Very quiet, beautiful landscape but nothing much there, just mountains and trees. Can't see that it warrants a detour on your way to Spain.

I'll be following this thread as it interests me too.


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## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

blaine said:


> We had a lovely crossing from Spain to France one year via Col de Pourtalet A136 [Spain] D934 [France] direction of Pau, probably changed numbers!
> There is a fantastic aire around Lac Artouste, just before Gabas. Lots to do there. It is a major skiing area but in summer the cable cars take you over to a beautiful valley then you can take the scariest train ride which clings to the side of the mountain to the reservoir above, true French Health and Safety style.... There was amazing mountain bike competition.
> Lots of Eagles and other wild life
> We went from there to Laruns to another aire and again loved the town. We went to a local "Pilotte"? game one evening.
> As anyone will agree it depends what "floats your boat"


I enjoyed Le Petit Train d'Artouste too. Not expensive either as I remember (unless it was way back when I was rich!)


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## wug (May 19, 2011)

About 35 years ago we drove to the Pyrenees to what was then a small village called Benasque and then up a dirt road to a refuge high up the Vallibierna where we camped with only a few others nearby for a couple of weeks and enjoyed superb walking onto some of the high peaks, of which Aneto is the highest. The village was very undeveloped then, with cattle still living downstairs and just a couple of shops. I expect it's all changed now, but the excellent walking's still there.

The UK expert on Pyrenean walking is Kev Reynolds and he has written some books on the subject: Here His Pyrenees book is available Here


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## timontrak (May 3, 2010)

If I've read correctly, and you're passing back along the Pyrenees to the east, then would highly recommend the Ordesa National park and the site at Camping Gavin. Spectacular stuff, and great place to stay.

If you're going in the other direction, then I would second the vote for Burgos. Cathedral is stunning, and also the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos is well worth a visit.

Cheers - Tim


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## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

Thanks for all that everyone.

That lot will keep me busy with my maps for a while.

Roll on May.


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## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

rosalan said:


> This autumn we took the road coming home from Pamploma heading on a quiet road into France; wonderful.
> Alan


I drove from Irun to Pamplona in 2009 and the road was quite good, apart from where major road-building was going on. I'm guessing it is noted as N121A on Google maps. Was your route N121B?

Having looked on Google Street Maps, it certainly seems a lovely run with good views, although some of the surface tarmac looked a bit rough.

However, can anyone explain why both of these routes change from yellow in colour to clear (grey)? I could not detect any particular change in surface conditions at the points where the "colour" changes. Other routes also have this change of colour: why please?

Thanks - Gordon


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## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

Having now spent an hour or so poring over my maps I think I've decided to give Jura a miss and spend most of my time exploring both sides of the Pyrenees.

I was down there for a short time earlier this year and had a brief taster which I enjoyed. I like big scenery.

So, lots of wild spots/aires/municipals and ACSIs to research while I'm soaking up the rays on my annual winter migration south just after Christmas.


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## jonegood (Nov 5, 2007)

HermanHymer said:


> Hi Tony
> 
> In May I drove up from Calpe - Valencia - Barcelona - into France and all the way up the coast to Cap d'Agde. It was all very beautiful, but I found the French part a bit restrictive - absolutely nowhere to stop. Can't offer any rec's of aires, being an ACSI site user.
> 
> ...


Sorry I have to challenge this : - There are sooooo many aires between Perpignan and Cap d'agde! Some of them are really notable like Gruissan Plage (2 others in Gruissan) Leucate, Aigues Mortues etc etc etc. this is a great bit of coast to go to in mid season.

Its been mentioned hundreds of times on MHF that the best place for referrence is campincarinfos.com. Yes its in french but very straight forward to use and more complete and uptodate than 'all the aires' can be

Yes Carcasonne is a bit cheesy but not to be missed. I would also recommend some of the cathar castles particulalry this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peyrepertuse which has an aire below it.


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## icer (Dec 11, 2006)

Check this tunnel out, taken from wiki.
The Vielha tunnel (Aranese: Tunèl de Vielha, Catalan and Spanish: Túnel de Viella) is a road tunnel in north-west Catalonia, connecting Vielha, the capital of the Val d'Aran valley, with the Alta Ribagorça comarca. It is part of the N-230 road and consists of 2 parallel tunnels. The older one, named Alfonso XIII Tunnel in honour of Spanish king Alfonso XIII, was opened in 1948 and became the longest road tunnel in the world, with a length of 5240 metres, until 1964, when the Great St Bernard Tunnel was inaugurated. The new tunnel, named Juan Carlos I Tunnel in honour of Spanish king Juan Carlos I, is 5230 metres long and was opened in 2007 with 2 lanes in southbound direction and 1 lane in northbound one. The old tunnel is nowadays used as an emergency exit and, since July 2011, also as a lane used by trucks which carry inflammable or otherwise dangerous products

Brilliant either side

Ian


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## HermanHymer (Dec 5, 2008)

jonegood said:


> HermanHymer said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Tony
> ...


I meant I don't use aires on account of being a solo traveller. No "big dog" to go and look when things go bump in the night!


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## deckboy (Sep 14, 2011)

tonyt said:


> My plan is to turn the corner at Biarritz/San Sebastian and come back along the Spanish side of the mountains but I know absolutely nothing about that part of Spain.
> 
> I like rural/walking/cycling/wilding, with the occasional taste of civilisation.


  If you get the chance head into the Picos de Europa WSW of San Sebastian. Couple of good campsites (ACSI) outside Potes, but our favourite is Camping La Viorna
Fantastic countryside and ideal for walking.


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## tonyt (May 25, 2005)

deckboy said:


> tonyt said:
> 
> 
> > My plan is to turn the corner at Biarritz/San Sebastian and come back along the Spanish side of the mountains but I know absolutely nothing about that part of Spain.
> ...


Yep - thanks - been there and agree about Cmpg Viorna.


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## Patrick_Phillips (Aug 17, 2006)

We did this journey last year in October.
The Xs and green flags etc are campsites. The Xs are from Archie’s Europe.
We were actually sort of passage making but the main reason we didn’t go higher into the Pyrenees was that there seems to be a distinct lack of West-East road after the Catalan border going to Barcelona.
Don’t miss the lakes at Grado (see our detour at 3)
As usual we got lost at Lerida trying to find Raco d’En Pep and landed up at Balaguer. We found a park road just on the edge of town and prepared to settle for the night. I got talking to an very elderly local out walking her dog. “Come with me” she said and took us to her house about half a mile away where she got he neighbour to move his car so we could camp at the end of the block she lived in. “Much better there”, she says.
You can’t ask for a better welcome that that, can you?
The area is a wonderful source of little known pates, cheeses and sausages. Look for local shops and you will eat better here than in mainland France!
This is a land which has never made it to the Tourist maps but is very civilised indeed.

Patrick


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## christine1310 (Apr 10, 2008)

We were in Andorra last week in our motorhome. The main road through was kept clear of snow, however the French side was closed after El Pas de la Casa. If you are going there ski-ing then I would advise you to hire a 4 wheel drive.

We drove south from Andorra to Barcelona via the Cadi tunnel N260 onto the C16 south to Baga - the scenery was beautiful and definitely an area we would return to.


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## Easyriders (May 16, 2011)

We have several times crossed the Pyrenees via the Bielsa tunnel. It's easier doing it from France into Spain than the other way round, because the French side has hairpin bends - easier uphill than down. We did this trip in September on our way from the Auvergne, through Albi, then on through Spain to Portugal.

On the Spanish side after the tunnel, there's a really good campsite called Pena Montesana, between Ainsa and Labuerda. Stunning views, great walking area, and very well equipped camp site, with outdoor and indoor pools and a hot tub, good shop, restaurant and takeaway. It's in the ACSI book at €16 off season.


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## BobandLin (Sep 6, 2011)

Got fond memories of Pena Montesana as said lovely site beautifull area, particularly during the Autumn colours are stunning.

Bob


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

christine1310 said:


> We were in Andorra last week in our motorhome. The main road through was kept clear of snow, however the French side was closed after El Pas de la Casa. If you are going there ski-ing then I would advise you to hire a 4 wheel drive.
> 
> We drove south from Andorra to Barcelona via the Cadi tunnel N260 onto the C16 south to Baga - the scenery was beautiful and definitely an area we would return to.


You have a PM waiting for you to read


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## Jeannette (Aug 7, 2012)

We went to take part in a motocross event in Ripoll this summer in the Pyranees. Went via Calais, Honfleur, La Rochelle, Biarritz, Fois, Andorra and into the Pyranees. 

Great trip and an area well worth visiting. Weird being in Fois in ten morning in flip flops and shorts and standing in Andorra in the snow still in flip flops and shorts for lunch. A week later passed through and sat in shorts in a street restaurant having lunch again. 

Whichever way you go in you will have a great time.


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