# Truma heating balance



## Nethernut (Jun 4, 2008)

Is there any way on a Truma heating system whereby the balance of heat put to the rear and front of the motorhome can be controlled? Our motorhome is a hot house at the rear around the fixed bed and in the bathroom whereas the output is much cooler in the front seating area. We have a double floor so all heating trunking is relatively well insulated. What we would like to do is put out less heat at the rear and send more to the front? Just wondered if anyone knows of an adjustment which can be done.


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## HeatherChloe (Oct 18, 2009)

Nethernut said:


> Is there any way on a Truma heating system whereby the balance of heat put to the rear and front of the motorhome can be controlled? Our motorhome is a hot house at the rear around the fixed bed and in the bathroom whereas the output is much cooler in the front seating area. We have a double floor so all heating trunking is relatively well insulated. What we would like to do is put out less heat at the rear and send more to the front? Just wondered if anyone knows of an adjustment which can be done.


Don't you just adjust the little flaps on the holes where the hot air comes out? If they are wide open, then lots comes out, and if they are closed or half closed, less comes out?

Or am I deluded? (I could be)


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## Nethernut (Jun 4, 2008)

We're adjusted the flaps but that doesn't seem to solve the problem. I just wondered if there were a way of sending say 30% to the rear of the van, 10% to the bathroom and the remainder 60% to the front areas.


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## UncleNorm (May 1, 2005)

Sorry Nethernut. But I can only offer the same response as Heather. Trial and error adjustment of the outlet flaps.


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

Hello,

I had the same issue and bought some truma slide valves to throttle the flow.

These Should come with a slider switch so you can adjust the flow.

TM


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## Codfinger (Jan 11, 2008)

teemyob said:


> Hello,
> 
> I had the same issue and bought some truma slide valves to throttle the flow.
> 
> ...


Do you mean one of these TM http://www.leisure-supplies.co.uk/productdetails.php?id=355 ? looks like one could be hidden out of the way to shut off or reduce flow to an area easily.
Chris


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## andrewball1000 (Oct 16, 2009)

Hi Nethnut, I have a similar problem which is still on my list of jobs to fix. Now the winter is coming I will need to get on with it.

From what I can see the Truma has two separate warm air outlets that the flexible trunking connects to. One goes to the loo on a short run and gets all the heat. The other feeds forwards and has 7 on it!! Nothing get forward of the 4th outlet even when all are closed. This run also had a loose connection at the Truma which didn't help the situation. I would check this. 

Obviously the trunking design is unbalanced and I am not sure that restricting the flow to the loo will push more out of the other outlet. I may have to redesign the trunking so that each run covers half the exits. 

Can anyone tell me how many potential outlets are there on the Truma?


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## andrewball1000 (Oct 16, 2009)

I may be answering my own question here. Following codfingers link the site has downloadable installation instructions which appear to show 4 separate ducting/trunking outlets from the Truma. This would make it easier to balance the design.

http://www.leisure-supplies.co.uk/truma/heating/6002eh_installation.pdf

edit: and this extract is interesting: - In order to prevent heat accumulation, all 4 warm air connecting pieces must be connected up. The cross-section of the warm air ducts must not be reduced by connections or the like. If an EN end outlet that can be closed off is installed in one of the Trumatic C 6002 EH warm air ducts (e.g. in the bathroom), a second outlet that cannot be closed off must be installed 
in the warm air duct.

I think I need to chat over my duct routing with Truma.


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## Rocles (May 1, 2005)

I have this situation with our new (to us) Bessacarr e560. There's a discussion about this on the Swift Talk forum...you may need to register first to see it, at This link

Basically, it involves swapping over the tubes on the blower output, so that the more powerful one is directed to the front lounge vents.


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## andrewball1000 (Oct 16, 2009)

Rocles said:


> I have this situation with our new (to us) Bessacarr e560. There's a discussion about this on the Swift Talk forum...you may need to register first to see it, at This link
> 
> Basically, it involves swapping over the tubes on the blower output, so that the more powerful one is directed to the front lounge vents.


Thanks Rocles. I went through the registration and verified my email but then they want details such as VIN nos of a vehicle I don't have to complete the process!! Perhaps you could keep us Non Swifties posted on any relevant bits that come up. 
regards Andrew


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## Rocles (May 1, 2005)

Ok...I wasn't asked for VIN etc...must have changed the process.

Anyway, the following is what was posted, not my info, and I haven't yet tried it
==============================================
"Just bought a 3yr old Bessecar E560 and found that the airflow is weak at the front. A quick google led me to this thread and I think that the E560 is the same vehicle/layout as the 680FB. In which case, you might be interested in a partial fix. I read through this thread and am equally dissapointed that the Truma unit seems to spend ALL its time on low flow and only ever rises to some sort of 'fever pitch' AFTER you switch it off - is this some sort of post-heating proetection? The problem for me was that the Truma unit C6002 is under the rear bed and individually feeds the bathroom, the bed-side and the bed-foot on single tubes. The 4th tube takes the long run, vents once in the door footwell, travels under the van (unisulated), vents for a second time in the front area and then a third and final time into the cab, behind the passenger seat.

In an effort to rebalance the venting, I have swapped around the tubes and vents as follows.

I removed the long tube (A) and duct (B - an end-plugged T piece flap-vent at the bed-end) from port 3.

I removed the tube (C) from port 4, the T-piece (D) from under the fridge (where it connects to the underfoor tube) and the short tube (E) from this T-piece to the footwell vent by the door.

I put them baCK as follows:

Connect tube (C) to port 3. Connect the other end to T-piece (D) and fix this in the bed-end with the flap-vent. Connect the long tube (A) to the other side of this T-piece and the other end to the duct/flap valve near the footwell. This puts 2 vents on port 3.

Connect the remaining tube (E) from Port 4 to T piece B and on to the under-footwell tube. Cap the side exit to this T piece.

This puts 2 vents apiece on portas 3 and 4.

I hope the diagram below will help show this better. The job only took about 1/2 hr. and requires no cutting or new parts.
In my vehicle this all fits perfectly and, now having no vent off port 4 before reaching the front, has a significantly improved airflow to the front.

I am left asking why this arrangement was not done in the original design, as 3 vents off one port and a long run is too much to expect.

I will be interested to see how it performs in the depths of winter. It is supposed to be 1.8kw from 240VAC but present evidence suggests this isn't a patch on the 2kw fan heater we used to use.



Original:

Port 3 ================A=====================TB Cap Bed-end vent 
/


Port 4 ===C====TD====== footwell ==========T==================/ Cab vent 
| ============= /
| Front Vent
==E==/ Footwell vent



Re-ducted:

Port 3 ====C===TD==============A==================/ Footwell vent
/
Bed-end vent


Port 4 ===E===TB====== footwell ===========T==================/ Cab vent
Cap ============ /
Front Vent
==============================================

!


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## Nethernut (Jun 4, 2008)

This is the info copied from the forum (I am sure the poster will not object)


Hi,
Just bought a 3yr old Bessecar E560 and found that the airflow is weak at the front. A quick google led me to this thread and I think that the E560 is the same vehicle/layout as the 680FB. In which case, you might be interested in a partial fix. I read through this thread and am equally dissapointed that the Truma unit seems to spend ALL its time on low flow and only ever rises to some sort of 'fever pitch' AFTER you switch it off - is this some sort of post-heating proetection? The problem for me was that the Truma unit C6002 is under the rear bed and individually feeds the bathroom, the bed-side and the bed-foot on single tubes. The 4th tube takes the long run, vents once in the door footwell, travels under the van (unisulated), vents for a second time in the front area and then a third and final time into the cab, behind the passenger seat.
In an effort to rebalance the venting, I have swapped around the tubes and vents as follows.
I removed the long tube (A) and duct (B - an end-plugged T piece flap-vent at the bed-end) from port 3.
I removed the tube (C) from port 4, the T-piece (D) from under the fridge (where it connects to the underfoor tube) and the short tube (E) from this T-piece to the footwell vent by the door.
I put them baCK as follows:
Connect tube (C) to port 3. Connect the other end to T-piece (D) and fix this in the bed-end with the flap-vent. Connect the long tube (A) to the other side of this T-piece and the other end to the duct/flap valve near the footwell. This puts 2 vents on port 3.
Connect the remaining tube (E) from Port 4 to T piece B and on to the under-footwell tube. Cap the side exit to this T piece.
This puts 2 vents apiece on portas 3 and 4.
I hope the diagram below will help show this better. The job only took about 1/2 hr. and requires no cutting or new parts. 
In my vehicle this all fits perfectly and, now having no vent off port 4 before reaching the front, has a significantly improved airflow to the front.
I am left asking why this arrangement was not done in the original design, as 3 vents off one port and a long run is too much to expect.
I will be interested to see how it performs in the depths of winter. It is supposed to be 1.8kw from 240VAC but present evidence suggests this isn't a patch on the 2kw fan heater we used to use.

Original:
Port 3 ================A=====================TB Cap Bed-end vent 
/

Port 4 ===C====TD====== footwell ==========T==================/ Cab vent 
| ============= /
| Front Vent
==E==/ Footwell vent 


Re-ducted:
Port 3 ====C===TD==============A==================/ Footwell vent 
/
Bed-end vent

Port 4 ===E===TB====== footwell ===========T==================/ Cab vent 
Cap ============ /
Front Vent


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## andrewball1000 (Oct 16, 2009)

Thanks to both of you for posting that. I now know I have two unused Truma outlets I can use to run new ducting to my forward vents. I will do some more investigating this weekend.


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## tude (Feb 9, 2008)

*truma*

hi 
ive just changed vans and the last van a 2008 kontiki had the same problem too hot in the bedromm department ha ha and cold in the lounge.i tried everything and spoke to truma nothing made it better.now my new van has the boiler in the lounge much better hot in the lounge colder in the bedroom. thanks tude


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## JeanLuc (Jan 13, 2007)

Two thoughts.
Some motorhome manufacturers fit a throttle in the ducting - might you have one of these and not realise it? I know that some Hymer alcove (overcab bed) models have a system, activated by a cord somewhere, that reduces flow to the alcove. Cannot say more as I don't have one and have never seen it - just noted in a manual somewhere.
Alternatively, have you checked that all the pipes are securely fixed to the Truma? It is not uncommon for the metal push-in unions on the ends of the fibre ducts, to come out of their sockets. When this happens, you will get a very hot area around the Truma and lack of 'blow' at the other end of the run. Worth checking if you have not done so already.

Other than that, I guess it's just a case of playing with the butterfly outlet valves or fitting some in-line sliders as suggested above.


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## teemyob (Nov 22, 2005)

*throttle*



Codfinger said:


> teemyob said:
> 
> 
> > Hello,
> ...


That is the one.

We had two in-place.

Terv


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