# Swift Royale 590 1996 - Where's my wood? Need to screw!



## Double-Entendre (May 19, 2009)

Hi. I have a 1996 Royale 590.

Has anyone done the following? Or do I need Andy from Swift again?

I want to screw 2 x cup hooks to the rear wall in the shower area, so I can attach a bungee type of cord to hold upright, a folding pram / boogie board etc, so they rest on the opening flap behind the toilet and are held in a vertical position by the bungee cord. With me so far?

What I want to do, is to screw the hooks in, as widely placed as possible, tight up against the side walls of the shower (Van off-side rear corner) and the corner betewwn the shower / cooker wall.

Question is . . . . . are there any timber uprights or supports in these areas and if so, how wide are the struts? (Or how close to the corner should I fix?)

Also, how deep are the struts, if any, so I can guage the length of screw thread?

If there are no timbers available, how thick is the back panel in the shower area? . . . . . . . . with a view to screwing straight into this (There is very little weight going to be placed on the cup hooks, unless I brake too hard - I assume the rear wall will support the weight from the turbo-thrust on acceleration :wink


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## philoaks (Sep 2, 2008)

Hi,

I'm not sure about the construction of the Royale but suspect that the back panel is only a thin ply panel (probably just a few millimetres thick).

I've done similar things over the years using self adhesive hooks. Once stuck on I've drilled a pilot hole through the hook and screwed in a small self tapping screw, just long enough to grip into the thin ply panel. It's surprising how much weight it will then take.

The other thing you could do, before you stick the hook on is use a bradawl to find out if there is anything more substantial behind the panel. If so you could use a slightly longer screw.


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## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

Or use collapsing anchor type fittings as used in the house, Rawlplug make some very small ones which go into rubber tubes with the captive nut at the far end - they work very well and do spread the load.

Check these out;

http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=34

Hope that may help,

Dave


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## SwiftGroup (Jun 27, 2007)

Hi,
The rear of a 1996 Royale was approx 28mm thick overall so be very careful not to pierce the outside, otherwise you will end up with a hook on the outside 8O 

The timbers are fitted around the perimeter of the overall rear frame and around windows. These timbers will be 15mm & 21mm wide. There will be additional timbers for cycle carriers, Roof ladders etc, but we did keep these to a minimum for weight, sorry I can't be more specific, but this is what you should expect. Have you tried tapping the board from the inside and listening for a sound change indicating timber. Alternatively look at cavity wall fixings.

The other word of caution is the 12V wiring which I believe in 1996 was in the rear wall, 

Best of luck,
Andy


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## Double-Entendre (May 19, 2009)

SwiftGroup said:


> Hi,
> The rear of a 1996 Royale was approx 28mm thick overall so be very careful not to pierce the outside, otherwise you will end up with a hook on the outside 8O
> 
> The timbers are fitted around the perimeter of the overall rear frame and around windows. These timbers will be 15mm & 21mm wide. There will be additional timbers for cycle carriers, Roof ladders etc, but we did keep these to a minimum for weight, sorry I can't be more specific, but this is what you should expect. Have you tried tapping the board from the inside and listening for a sound change indicating timber. Alternatively look at cavity wall fixings.
> ...


Ahhh, Andy,

Thanks again for your help.

Re- the cavity wall idea, do you know how thick the plywood shower wall is and also the cavity depth please?, so I can guage the fixing's depth without putting a "Hook on the outside"

Whatever I can fix in the way of hooks etc doesn't have to take any downwards force really, it's more a 45 degree angle of pull, as it will only be holding the pram etc from falling forwards.

thanks again


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Having had a Royal 635 1998 on an R. I can confirm what Swift have just replied. I now use these, see link. very strong and should save you making holes, try them first is what I suggest.good value as well.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310197338566&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Cabby


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## SwiftGroup (Jun 27, 2007)

Hi D-E,
The construction is 3mm ply, 21mm timber/ insulation, 3mm plywood. So really your looking at a 20-21mm cavity. The ply will take fixing you just need to be careful about the load you put on it and in particular the the peel forces.
Thanks
Andy


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

2 questions.
Is the body Aluminium or GRP.
are the rear outside corners wrap around or thin like a caravan.with the metal insert.

cabby


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## SwiftGroup (Jun 27, 2007)

Hi Cabby,
Its an aluminium rear panel with aluminium extrusions on the corners, see below (if it works!), 
thanks
Andy

http://www.becksmotorhomes.com/photos/P1040735.JPG


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Then as has been said,ally skin over a wooden frame, thin decorated panel inside,a sort of fibre filling which over time does sag, allowing cold spots, but I digress,   Should point out that the Swift vans have improved since then.
I would recommend that you do NOT drill into the wooden struts, as they are very thin and old,plus the wiring loom. The hooks I suggested with my link to ebay. yes I am using some myself, :wink: :wink: would be your best way to deal with what you wish to do, then should the load be too much only a suction hook comes off the wall and not half the wall with it.

cabby


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## SwiftGroup (Jun 27, 2007)

Cabby,

Just to pick up on your last post you are mistaken. Swift have never used 'fibre filling' we have always produced motorhomes with composite panels which are laminated panels using either extruded or expanded polystyrene sandwiched by plywood bonded and pressed together. This will not sag and create cold spots over time as you state.

Best Wishes,
Andy


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Hi Andy,
Have sat and thought back some years and if you say I am wrong then I will accept that.
Then thought about it some more and chatted to the OH. You could well be right, I was thinking of the repairs I had to make to our Commer Highwayman.
Still say that the vac hooks would be best answer though.see link.

good to see that you are on here.

cabby


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## Double-Entendre (May 19, 2009)

cabby said:


> Hi Andy,
> 
> Still say that the vac hooks would be best answer though.see link.
> 
> ...


Hi.

The "Vac hooks" look great . . . . . if you're fixing to a flat surface but as the shower area is "Wallpapered" with a rouch finish, will they "Vac"?

Stick on hooks are a no-go too, as if they give, thayill pull the wallpaper off whereas a cuphook, if it gives, will leave a small hole. (I'm talking cup hooks like the size of the old "Net curtain wire hook" size.

Thanks though


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