# Our fridge won't work on electrical hookup



## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

It was working fine but on our just finished trip to the Netherlands it quit working on both 12v and 230v. It works fine on gas. I meant to take it to the local electrical repair shop but it seems they are on vacation. So I'm wondering if anyone has any clues to a simple fix I might do myself. Or at least something to check. The lights indicating which system is in use both come on. The model is on our year 2000 Hymer 644C it says Hymer on the front but I think it's the typical Electrolux. I don't find any burnt out fuses in the places I can see at least.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Just bringing this up again to see if I get a response.


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## cater_racer (May 1, 2005)

Try:

http://www.caravanbreakersnationwid...-fridge-full-electric-system-spares-327-p.asp

Cater_racer


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## bobandjane (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi, I would say its the heating element, you have one for 12v and one for 230v. They just slide down the tube above your gas burner, if your fridge is auto, switch it to electric first it may be the control panel, but odds are its the heating element.  Bob.


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## spykal (May 9, 2005)

bobandjane said:


> Hi, I would say its the heating element, you have one for 12v and one for 230v.


Hi Jhelm

Further to bobandjane's suggestions above :- I read the description of the problem, ie Fridge not working on 240v or 12v and thought that it was very unlikely that both elements would pack up at the same time ( but stranger things have happened) .

Also it is very difficult to establish whether it is working on 12v as this will only be available when the engine is running and even then the cooling effect on 12v is very limited.

Depending on your abilities, it is fairly simple to do a check with a meter to establish whether these heating elements are in fact broken or whether the problem lies elsewhere.

Mike


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Is it odd that both electric heating elements would go out at the same time. A question maybe related or not, while in the Netherlands we hooked up to a 230 volt supply. Our inverter was making a whining noise, but when we turned off the florescent light it stopped. We didn't have the problem on hook up at other sites.


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## spykal (May 9, 2005)

jhelm said:


> snip:- Our inverter was making a whining noise, but when we turned off the florescent light it stopped. We didn't have the problem on hook up at other sites.


Hi

The problem with trying to diagnose a problem like this at a distance is that those reading can only get an "idea" of the actual problem.

We need a bit more detail. Why were you using the invertor when you were on a hook up? is the invertor "wired in" to the van's mains wiring?

What is the model number and manufacturer of the fridge? and do you feel competent to delve into the workings of the fridge? (not trying to be difficult but we need to get an idea of your abilities before offering advice that could be dangerous to follow if you are not at least a little familiar with electrics :wink: )

Mike


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Good points, first I mistakenly referred to the inverter (thinking inverter changing voltage from dc to ac) when I really meant the transformer rectifier, the Elektroblock (changing voltage from ac to dc). 

Second without going and looking for details on the fridge, it's the basic manual model, and I'm not sure if if works on 12v or not. It is certainly not as cold. We were on a trip, we had it plugged into 230 and it was warm. With gas we could tell it was cold enough by looking in the little freezer to find a bit on frost. But on 12v while driving the frost melted. Not wanting to ruin our food we didn't test it further.

I am fine with taking a look inside. I've got a multimeter so if you can tell me what to look for and at I will give it a try. I'm guessing I can also look to see if the elements are heating or not and if not check to see that they are getting power.


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## spykal (May 9, 2005)

Hi

I have posted some of this info before but it can only help others find it to post it again:-

The symptoms certainly sound as though the 240v heater element has packed up. The first task is to get to the rear of the fridge via the two air vents. Once there you can check if the 240v heater is working when 240v is connected. The heater tube should get quite hot if it is working. If there is no heat then it is odds on that the element has had it.

It is not that difficult to fit a new element if you have the type of fridge installation that has top and bottom vents that open to the outside of the van. A quick installation utilises the existing wiring that goes between the front control panel of the fridge and the heater element ... * disconnect the power* and cut this covered cable ( there are markings on the cable cover to identify it) . Now you can check that power is actually getting to the element and do a check on the element itself. I used a connector to attach the new element( insulate this after connecting). This saves taking the fridge completely out of its housing.

The 12v element can be checked in the same way. New elements are easy to obtain , I got mine from Leisurespares.

http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/

I have attached a few pictures of the heater element and where it is located... I took these when repairing mine ...I thought at the time they may be useful to help someone one day. :wink:

I hope i have not forgotten any detail and if anyone else who has done this job can throw in a few tips ...go ahead :wink:

best of luck, do let us know how you get on with it :wink:

Mike

P.S. Please only do this repair yourself if you know that you are competent to do so... :roll:









The heater tube and where the element fits, note that I had to open up the top part to insert the new element, then crimp it back up









The old element,( note curve ), the new one has to be wiggled up inside a tube that is inside the insulated heater cover.









An insulated connector can be used to attach the wiring to the new element.

**The small print :roll: 
I do not endorse any of the advice. I provide it to you as a service. I can neither guarantee the soundness of the advice, nor make any claims as to the outcome of following this advice. I provide it for your entertainment only. Should you choose to follow any of the advice, it is solely at your own risk. This is not intended to substitute for obtaining advice from appropriate sources and/or professional counseling. I recommend you consult an appropriate professional, counselor, and/or a trusted advisor before taking any action based on this advice. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

OK, I think I have the basic picture now; isn't it nice how a few simple pointers can make things seem so much more clear.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Last night I ran the engine for a while to check the 12v operation. There was no heat generated and now the light on the fridge unit itself does not come on. Another perhaps related issue is that the battery charge indicator does not work for the engine battery though it still works for the habitation battery.

I'm starting to think we have some electrical issues.


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