# Fiamma Safe Door (Frame Variety)



## 95853 (Jul 25, 2005)

I want to fit some additonal (and overt) security to my habitation door.

This is for when we leave our motorhome for the day - I dont really want to spend my hols in her all the time!

I quite like the look of the Fiamma products, the Safe door and the security bar, entrance handle thingy. But we have a fridge fitted right by the door and fitting bolts/back plates will require removal of the fridge.

There is a version of the Safe Door (see here)Safe Door Frame which you screw straight in to the door frame.

I am a little worried about affecting the tightness of the seal and losing waterproofness.

Has anyone used this?? Please comment

However the option of buying 3 for £85 ish means that I could fit 2 to the habitation door (1 above and 1 below the existing lock therefore making 3 secure points along the length of the door) and fitting 1 to the garage door.

This would make my motorhome security to be a Van Bitz alarm, additonal heosafe deadlocks for cab doors, and Safe Door for habitation area. Total cost £800.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

coral said:


> There is a version of the Safe Door (see here)Safe Door Frame which you screw straight in to the door frame.
> I am a little worried about affecting the tightness of the seal and losing waterproofness.
> Has anyone used this?? Please comment


Hi 
I haven't used these but IMO any device that depends on self tappers rather than bolts with a back plate would be next to useless in stopping a thief.. the deterrent would be visual only.


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*Security*

Hello

In terms of improving security, (and as with all things van like at the moment) this is on my list of things to do.

In terms of making all three doors more secure, I am going to assume that most of us leave by the habitation door. We can therefore lock the cab doors with the standard lock and also Heosafe or similar if required.

So if the habitation door is the last one used, it will need an additional external lock. I saw one that was like a "S" shape bar that swung across.

On the other hand, how secure are the standard habitation door locks?

This is as far as my thinking goes.

As Jim says, the strength of the lock is probably within how it is fitted.

There are a couple of photos on this site showing pieces of wood jammed in the habitation door - but obviously this can only be done from inside - unless you are going to climb through the sun roof!

Rapide561


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## lummers (May 1, 2005)

Hi Coral, I purchased the Safe door about a month ago and came across similar probs with the position of the fridge. After reading several articles about the difficulty of fridge removal, I did decide to take the plunge and have ago.In my case I was easily able to slide the fridge out with disconnecting any wires etc.Next prob was the position of wires and hose that were fitted where i wished to put the lock bolts,I repositioned to one side to give clearance. Drilling then positioning was then relevantly easy other than the bolts supplied were not long enough so a trip to a local supplier sorted that.Ensure that the surface of your outside wall is flat(may be obvious) but I originally missed mine had a slight styling line making the seating not quite flush, however I was able to resolve with a sufficiently sized rubber gasket. 
The fridge went back into place fairly easily although I had to remove an outside wall grill and then refit in order to put my hand through and correctly ensure the fridge flue pipe was correctly seated.The lock works well, but like anything someone determined will get in.


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## mervyncp (May 1, 2005)

I fitted a Fiamma Safe Door to the drivers door of my Hymer B644, which was relatively easy, and a Fiamma Security Pro 46 Safe Door Handle to the Habitation door. The latter was far from easy as it required some serious dismantling of the open storage cupboards just inside the door, and being a Hymer of 1993 vintage it was exceptionally well put together.
I must say though that they are both excellent visual deterrents and I leave my van now with vastly increased peace of mind.
Easily worth the time and effort
I managed to buy both on eBay and saved a small fortune on the Fiamma price.
Best regards
Mervyn


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## takeaflight (May 9, 2005)

I fitted a "safe door frame" yesterday bought at the show, took about 5 mins, is held by self tappers which has Scotlandjim says not ideal, but really its for show, a pea sized brained scrum bag might just think, I try the van next door without any extra locks! but the truth is if someone really wonts to get in then they will.


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## 92859 (May 1, 2005)

Greetings,

Coral, if you are considering buying three locks, you should consider asking the dealer if you can go through the locks and find three with the same key numbers, the numbers are NOT unique and you wil find repetetive numbers on keys, two people I have spoken to have done this and only have one key t carry for the extra number of locks they purchased, saves carrying three different keys fo the locks.


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## 89122 (May 14, 2005)

The safe door frame is held in by self tappers, but it is impossible to see them let alone unscrew them whilst locked.
They are a valuable detterent to any would be thief.
I have a spare one myself as it would not fit in the gap between the door and bodywork.
(any offers welcome)
Eddie


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## mervyncp (May 1, 2005)

Good Advice regarding the key numbers, but Fiamma sell a pack of 3 locks with matching keys. Saves you money and lots of trouble


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

Hi Coral

Having fitted two safe-doors there are a few thing you need to know.
Firstly, most vans have obstructions in the way of fitting the standard safe-door bolts through the side wall, usually fridges or similar.
Second, the safe-door-frame model only fits using self-tappers - not as secure. Also with the frame model, you need a very substantial gap between door and frame to allow the tongue to go in.
My answer is to buy the safe-door-frame model (cheaper for some reason) then decide where you can drill the wall to fit through bolts. Drill your holes (8.5mm) and then drill & tap the lock backplate 8mm to suit your holes in the van wall. This makes a very secure fixing if you place a piece of steel plate on the inside of the van wall below your bolt heads. If the tongue of the lock will fit in your door gap, then use the self tappers too, otherwise just cut the tongue off with a hacksaw.

Excellent job and no moving fridges.


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## 88724 (May 9, 2005)

Hi

if your frame is flat enoughlook carefully at your own frame first, this is OK not impossible to get past though...

http://partners.fiamma.it/en/products/dettprod_en.asp?codice=04688A01-

The second one with screw through and backing plate is far more secure, as long as they aint clued up on locks....

http://partners.fiamma.it/en/products/dettprod_en.asp?codice=04688-01-


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## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

Apologies - mistake in text, corrected now - buy the safe-door-frame and adapt it as above is the message.


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## 95853 (Jul 25, 2005)

Thanks for the help and general discussion.

I decided that self tapping screws were a waste of space and time.

I like Gaspode's idea about adapting the frame door type, and bolting through the side wall - but that would mean removing the fridge which I do not want to get in to.

I have plumped for the Albus/Heosafe lock, which I will fit as low down as possible. This lock is lockable from both inside and out. This will supplement the standard door lock.

Thanks for your help.


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