# Swift charger boiling batteries



## GRUMPYOB (Feb 20, 2011)

I have two 130amp/hr batteries that I have to top up more frequently than I think is normal. I checked the input last weekend while away and found the batteries showing 14v and the motorhome charger still putting over 4amps into them according to the onboard panel. I checked the batteries after 3 weeks summer holiday using mains hookup and had to put almost 1/2 a litre of water into each cell. Obviously something is wrong but has anyone come across this issue? The motorhome is a 2009 Swift Kontiki and the charger has no way of turning it off like the older versions used to. The soalr charger seems to regulate when it's in storage but only if I remember to check the electrolyte levels after a while on mains hookup.


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## rayc (Jun 3, 2008)

> GRUMPYOB said:
> 
> 
> > I have two 130amp/hr batteries that I have to top up more frequently than I think is normal. I checked the input last weekend while away and found the batteries showing 14v and the motorhome charger still putting over 4amps into them according to the onboard panel. I checked the batteries after 3 weeks summer holiday using mains hookup and had to put almost 1/2 a litre of water into each cell. Obviously something is wrong but has anyone come across this issue? The motorhome is a 2009 Swift Kontiki and the charger has no way of turning it off like the older versions used to. The soalr charger seems to regulate when it's in storage but only if I remember to check the electrolyte levels after a while on mains hookup.
> ...


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## coppo (May 27, 2009)

Just at one point putting 4 amps in whilst 14 volts is not to worry about, if it happens continuously then it would be. You need to check it over a longer period of time to see what its doing.

Paul.


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

2 x 130 amp batteries don't seem standard for your van.

Standard chargers often cannot manage to charge up multiple large Leisure batteries. My present van (under the previous owner) blew the charger because he had added a second battery. It cost £680 for an uprated version that could handle 2 batteries. 8O 

I have just given advice to someone who has the same problem with their Calira charger while they are in Spain.

Someone with a CBE charger (who had added a second battery) boiled them up when it developed a fault. It was putting out 17 volts.

Do Swift vans have the Sargent system fitted? If so, maybe someone at Sargent can help.


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## GRUMPYOB (Feb 20, 2011)

Cheers for you advice so far. I can't get back to it till the weekend so I'll do a bit more then. I did notice that at 13.9 volts earlier in the weekend it was putting in ovef 5a though.


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## pippin (Nov 15, 2007)

That don't sound right to me.

But what would I know- I've only been dealing with lead acid cells (144Ah) since 1963!


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

I'm thinking that the OP's 2009 Swift has a Nord Elettronica charger and they ain't known for their finesse or longevity. Some companies will offer to rebuild/refurb your unit but according to many threads on the internet, the Nord charger was flawed from day one.

Much better to ditch it and replace with a Sargent unit at a similar price to a refurbed Nord unit. Find out what you've got and then contact Sargent to see if they have a plug and play replacement.

We replaced our Nord charger (NE143P) with a Sargent PX300 http://sargentshop.co.uk/PX300-Intelligent-Battery-Charger. Did try to contact Stellings about having the Norde refurbed but they never got back to us.


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## 747 (Oct 2, 2009)

Some info here for the Nord Elettronica units (which also points to Stellings). There may be other useful info on this website.

http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/nordelettronica.php

They have an excellent reputation for service. It might be worth ringing Alan Evans at the above company as he is very helpful.


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## teamsaga (Feb 26, 2006)

Hi,
I think that the 13.9/14 volts on your panel is the charger output voltage, the panel would read this even if your batteries were flat.
If you turn the charger off and let the batteries stand for a while the panel should the give a more accurate reading.

regards Phil


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## BillCreer (Jan 23, 2010)

I agree with Phil and you need to disconnect from any EHU and solar and see what voltage is being registered after the batteries have done nothing for an hour or so.
The usual cause for the batteries overheating / gassing is when one of the cells goes down preventing the battery ever reaching a voltage which will switch the charger off.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Not much on the sparky stuff, but I'm interested to see how adding any amount of extra LBs would bugger up the charger, I have 3 125ah LBs which are on a 5 amp charger, been on for 2 years except when away with no problems, it's a CTEK Smart charger, just plugged into a EHU supplied socket, nothing special and the cheapest smart charger I could find.

My feeling is that it will just take longer to charge if you add more LBs, any decent charger should be OK IMO.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Any good quality charger should cope with additional battery capacity without problem, but if insufficient cooling has been provided, then it could overheat and screw up the regulation. I'd expect any decent charger to run continuously at full output for up to 10 hours without blowing up, but in consumer equipment that doesn't work!

I always work on 10% of battery capacity in amps output for a battery charger, regardless of usage, so typically a 110AH battery would have 11A charger and so on.

In practice we do more than that on our own vehicles, the trailer has twin 26A PSU's acting as constant voltage chargers on 110AH and 55AH batteries respectively, the Mercedes has 50A charger for a 220AH battery, and a 10A charger fore the 24V 100AH vehicle batteries.

In the case of the OP, I'd take the charger off the batteries as soon as possible and see what is actually coming out of it. 

Peter


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## GRUMPYOB (Feb 20, 2011)

Started getting texts from the tracker yesterday due to battery voltage under 10v. Got one battery on conditioning charge now and will do 2nd one when complete. Can then drop test 2nd one to see if it's saveable. Charger is a Sargent 3 stage switching mode unit, whatever that is. I'll have to wait until my next outing and I'll try just connecting one battery and see how it copes then.


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## igglepiggle (Nov 7, 2007)

hi have a word with these apuljack engineerings


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## boringfrog (Sep 22, 2006)

rayc said:


> > GRUMPYOB said:
> >
> >
> > > I have two 130amp/hr batteries that I have to top up more frequently than I think is normal. I checked the input last weekend while away and found the batteries showing 14v and the motorhome charger still putting over 4amps into them according to the onboard panel. I checked the batteries after 3 weeks summer holiday using mains hookup and had to put almost 1/2 a litre of water into each cell. Obviously something is wrong but has anyone come across this issue? The motorhome is a 2009 Swift Kontiki and the charger has no way of turning it off like the older versions used to. The soalr charger seems to regulate when it's in storage but only if I remember to check the electrolyte levels after a while on mains hookup.
> ...


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Rivet,

This might help

Rivet


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## boringfrog (Sep 22, 2006)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Rivet,
> 
> This might help
> 
> Rivet


I just need an electric clock now!

8O


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Did it Help BF?


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## boringfrog (Sep 22, 2006)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Did it Help BF?


Yes thanks. :?


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