# trip to Cape Wrath last week-end



## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

Here's my little report of last week-end's trip out. Had Friday off work (very rare) and headed off about 11.30 towards Scourie from Inverness-way. Arrived late afternoon at Tarbet which has an hotel, public convenience (open 24hours in Summer!) quite large car parking facilities and a jetty from which the boat (very small boat!) ferries visitors to Handa Island (SWT bird sanctuary).

There were 3 other MH's parked up and staying the night (despite big sign saying you can't) so we joined them (see pics attached - click on pics for good detail). Very peaceful, no hassel, you can eat and drink at the pub and take a trip to the island (we couldn't as they won't take dogs and we couldn't leave her for 2-3 hours). And no need to use the Thetford cassette as PC available 24 hours!

Next day short drive to ferry point for Cape Wrath just short of Durness. Again very small boat shuttles visitors acroos the Kyle to where a minibus picks up and takes you the 11 miles to the Cape across the NATO bombardment range along a very rough road - fun trip with characterful driver who hit the hills HARD and fast and gave humourous commentary on sites as we went along. Occasionally the bus is delayed a while if NATO practice is going on. (cost £5 return for ferry pp and £9 return bus pp)

Cape Wrath is the most NW point on mainland Britain - due west the next landmass is Canada and due north there is no land between here and the North Pole (and no land there as well!)

Early R Stephenson lighthouse at the Cape plus staggering cliffs and dangerous vertiginous viewpoints if you are crazy like me (but you do get good photos). If clear then views of the highest cliffs in UK to the east - 900 feet tall.
Weather good-ish, warm, some mist blowing in and off again and very little drizzle.
Climbed to viewpoint for a little exertion and then after 90 mins back in the bus to pick up boat. Boat full so had to wait while eaten by millions of those dearest little Scottish creatures we all love. (order 2 bottles of Skin So Soft on return so will see if that makes any diff - 2 bottles for £4.50 inc p&p if promotion code "Birthday 08" is used (thanks to yesterday's poster on Avon subject for this).

Sunday dreadful rain so had a lazy morning after brekky reading and napping but once we got off along the coast east weather brightened considerably and we wondered whether we should have left earlier as rain might have been very local.

Found nice beaches and future wild-camp spot (actually there are loads of really nice stretches of sandy beach along here and a nice looking camping site near to a big beach) and ran dog ragged with flingy ball device and she dipped in freshwater pools so was quite clean of sand etc when back in van. Long drive back home and didn't get back until 8.30pm.

Good trip out but pity we couldn't go to Handa Island and the rain Sunday - but ahhh I did enjoy the lazy Sunday morning.


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

*more pics*

Here are 3 more pics for those that like this sort of thing.


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## Tiggs (May 9, 2005)

I retire in September and Cape Wrath is on my list of places to visit. Thanks for the account and the pictures which will ensure I make the visit.
Regards
Tiggs


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

Tiggs said:


> I retire in September and Cape Wrath is on my list of places to visit. Thanks for the account and the pictures which will ensure I make the visit.
> Regards
> Tiggs


Hi Tiggs, glad they re-animate your desire. there really is a lot up on the north coast - if weather fine - and of course the whole of Scotty for that matter.


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## StAubyns (Jun 4, 2006)

Thanks

I'll bookmark this thread

regards

Geoff


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## doug285 (Apr 30, 2008)

Thanks for the report and terrific photo's. Must get up there one day.

Doug


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## davesport (Nov 12, 2006)

Vidura. did you try the little seafood restaurant next to the Handa ferry ?

Lovely little place to eat  

D.


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## geraldandannie (Jun 4, 2006)

Nice account, and lovely piccies. Thank you 

Not often we see the word "vertiginous" on here :wink:

Gerald


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

davesport said:


> Vidura. did you try the little seafood restaurant next to the Handa ferry ?
> 
> Lovely little place to eat
> 
> D.


Didn't Dave, we are veggies although will eat fish when out for a meal if there is nowt else veggie wise.
Like to cook up in the van - I often feel after being out for a meal that it was a total waste of cash - not because I am tight but because often the food and service is poor, when it is good I appreciate it and am more than happy to pay. I know we can always rustle up something usually much better than the so-called chefs in the van galley at a 10th of the cost!
cheers
Vidura


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

geraldandannie said:


> Nice account, and lovely piccies. Thank you
> 
> Not often we see the word "vertiginous" on here :wink:
> 
> Gerald


put that in to look educated - I have no idea what it means though! :wink:


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

We've just returned from this area, starting at Bettyhill and ending near Gairloch. Didn't go to Cape Wrath as weren't keen on the idea of being stuck on a mini-bus not being able to do things at our own leisure but did get to other places off the beaten track. 

We actually visited Tarbet, Foindle and Fangamore (all on this narrow roaded peninsula) on our motorbike, leaving the motorhome parked in a layby next to a lochan. We were glad we did! as there are some steep gradients and narrow parts.

How did you feel, overnighting where it was clearly stated not to? And with others? We'd far rather obey the rules and find somewhere to ourselves without those dratted yellow signs, which incidentally, seem to be springing up much more frequently in northern Scotland now.


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for this thread Vidura. We will be there in Spring next year on our way around the coast see this thread >Coast - All the way round thread<

or press the blog button below.

So for now we are watching this topic. My van goes just about anywhere a car will anyway so I expect it to do all the roads you mention NickandChris


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

nickandchris said:


> We've just returned from this area, starting at Bettyhill and ending near Gairloch. Didn't go to Cape Wrath as weren't keen on the idea of being stuck on a mini-bus not being able to do things at our own leisure but did get to other places off the beaten track.


The bus trip is about 35mins at the end of which you have about 90 to 120 mins to yourself at the cape - which is enough really. The bus trip is part of the trip if you see what I mean. The driver looks like a retired colonel - goes by the name of Sandy, has a big white mustasch and smokes a large cigar in a holder - he gives quite an informative and humorous commentary on the history an landscape.



nickandchris said:


> We actually visited Tarbet, Foindle and Fangamore (all on this narrow roaded peninsula) on our motorbike, leaving the motorhome parked in a layby next to a lochan. We were glad we did! as there are some steep gradients and narrow parts.


Yes the roads that way were pretty steep and my wife forbade me to attempt them although she did take the dog for a long walk over them while I stayed behind at leisure with a beer and a book.



nickandchris said:


> How did you feel, overnighting where it was clearly stated not to? And with others? We'd far rather obey the rules and find somewhere to ourselves without those dratted yellow signs, which incidentally, seem to be springing up much more frequently in northern Scotland now.


We have done this a few times and stayed in a lot of places which are not so signed. I don't have a problem with it - there doesn't seem to be much reason behind where there is a sign and where there isn't one. We have never been approached or nagged about staying, never leave a mess or stay too long. I have always had a rebellious streak and resent the fact that almost all of Scotland is in private hands - gosh in all this wilderness if you can't even park-up for a night!

It feels a bit more comfortable when others are parked up too - sure we would prefer to be out by ourselves but one can have a nice chat to the other MH'ers too. I guess if a spot becomes forever parked up with MH's then something would be done about it - if it is a real problem - if it's not then up here in the wilds they probably wouldn't be bothered about it.


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

sallytrafic said:


> Thanks for this thread Vidura. We will be there in Spring next year on our way around the coast see this thread >Coast - All the way round thread<
> 
> or press the blog button below.
> 
> So for now we are watching this topic. My van goes just about anywhere a car will anyway so I expect it to do all the roads you mention NickandChris


Hi Nick and Chris, you really won't have any problem in your van. We have done some terrible roads in the Hymer (the one from Lochinver past Achmelvich, Drumbeg, Nedd and round to Kylescu is "fun".
Haven't done the droving road to Applecross (would have had a go but my wife wouldn't let me - done it in a car though).
Have had to quickly shift to first gear a number of times though but the Fiat 2.8 just dragged us up without complaining.
How much time are you putting aside for the trip?
Vidura


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

Yes, we made the road south of Lochinver, round to Achnahaird, via Inverpolly forest. Now that is the hairiest road Nick has driven our 23 ft. motorhome on. Unclassified with some interesting bends and gradients and very small passing places.Also did the Drumbeg road, nothing compared with the afore mentioned!!

Do not attempt the road north of Melvaig (north west of Gairloch) to the lighthouse at Rhuba Reidh. Park anywhere around Melvaig and either walk (very long) or we used the motorbike.This road has a couple of extremely narrow bridges on hairpins. Be warned!!! That is where the motorbike really came into it's own.

The yellow no overnight parking signs are usually the local council's.

The Bealach na Bha pass is ok travelling from Applecross but coming the from the other side, there is one hairpin we had tohave two goes a. Luckily we were travelling downhill!!


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## carol (May 9, 2005)

vidura said:


> Hi Nick and Chris, you really won't have any problem in your van. We have done some terrible roads in the Hymer (the one from Lochinver past Achmelvich, Drumbeg, Nedd and round to Kylescu is "fun".
> Haven't done the droving road to Applecross (would have had a go but my wife wouldn't let me - done it in a car though).
> Have had to quickly shift to first gear a number of times though but the Fiat 2.8 just dragged us up without complaining.
> How much time are you putting aside for the trip?
> Vidura


We have done the road up to Applecross in a Hymer first time - only then about 19ft - and on a later trip we did it in a 32' RV.... interesting when you meet a lorry up there with not much passing places big enough to take you both, and side of roads were soft...... fortunately it was on the flat bit on the top.

Wonderful time, we did Wainright both ways around the coast at different times, and are thinking of going back up next year.

Carol


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

nickandchris said:


> Yes, we made the road south of Lochinver, round to Achnahaird, via Inverpolly forest. Now that is the hairiest road Nick has driven our 23 ft. motorhome on. Unclassified with some interesting bends and gradients and very small passing places.Also did the Drumbeg road, nothing compared with the afore mentioned!!
> 
> Do not attempt the road north of Melvaig (north west of Gairloch) to the lighthouse at Rhuba Reidh. Park anywhere around Melvaig and either walk (very long) or we used the motorbike.This road has a couple of extremely narrow bridges on hairpins. Be warned!!! That is where the motorbike really came into it's own.
> 
> ...


That is the difference between us - size

Bealach na Ba - a motorway in either direction compared with Millook Haven (Nr Widemouth Bay Devon) or even Hard Knott pass Cumbria

I'm pretty certain I took my Romahome to Rubha Reidh when on holiday at Kinlochewe but its noted and we will take care.

If you were asking me about the time Vidura, we will take 5-6 weeks starting in Glasgow and finishing - well it depends how well we get on. We averaged 60 miles per day from Preston to Glasgow but I think we will speed up a bit that far North. So around 2000 miles worth - how far will that get me?


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

nickandchris said:


> Yes, we made the road south of Lochinver, round to Achnahaird, via Inverpolly forest. Now that is the hairiest road Nick has driven our 23 ft. motorhome on. Unclassified with some interesting bends and gradients and very small passing places.Also did the Drumbeg road, nothing compared with the afore mentioned!!
> 
> Do not attempt the road north of Melvaig (north west of Gairloch) to the lighthouse at Rhuba Reidh.


Thanks for the warning - will try to remember!
Have done the Achnahaird road in a car - my wife remembers and absolutely forbade me attempting it in the van recently!


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

sallytrafic said:


> If you were asking me about the time Vidura, we will take 5-6 weeks starting in Glasgow and finishing - well it depends how well we get on. We averaged 60 miles per day from Preston to Glasgow but I think we will speed up a bit that far North. So around 2000 miles worth - how far will that get me?


sorry Frank I was asking you not Nick and Chris - I believe it was late when I posted!
I envy you the time - we only get 2 days away at the moment - but if you have got the time then it must be great to use it doing this! 
6 weeks seems a long time but so is 2000 miles - I hope it is enough to do all you want to do.


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

Of coarse my confidence about doing this in the time is helped by having been 'there' before (before retiring when it would be a holiday of a about two weeks or in the Romahome in 94, 97, 98, 01, 03 and 05 in the renault). As I go around I'm fairly familiar with great chunks of it, this helps greatly as I know there are bits where we can just cruise along and perhaps stop somewhere a little more unusual. 

Looking at my diaries for example I once sent a day in 2003 going from Inverness to John of Groats on the coast road then taking in taking in Castle of Mey, Dunnet head and Thurso before returning down the middle. (Other places leaping out from the pages include Ardnamurchan, Ullapool, Portree, Corran, Plockton, Nigg Ferry, Arran, Campbelton and several Tarberts and there it is .......13th Sept 1997 Beinn Eighe, Redpoint, Gairloch and Rhubha Reidh

glad I jot stuff down. 

My estimate of 2000 miles may be wildly out I won't have a handle on that until I start planning my route around the western sea lochs but be assured having spent 2700 miles so far sticking to the coast if a road is on the coast and I can get my van to it and along it we will do it.


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

one question prompted by your posts vidura and nickandchris

I was hoping to leave the A835 Near Drumrunie go via Inverpolly to Achnahaird then go as far as possible around to the south Achtilbuie and further.

There is a hotel in that stretch so I imagine my panel van could cope.

Then I wanted to retrace my steps nearly to Aird of Coigach and go on the little road that heads more or less along the coast to Inverkirkaig, Badnaban and then Lochinver is that doable?

It looks tricky in places but there is a fish farm enroute and only single chevrons so nothing worse than 1 in 5.


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

Hi, Frank, we have just covered ALL of this area, admittedly some on the motorbike but you are in a much smaller van than we were.

The route from Drumrunie is fine, scenic and plenty of decent passing places.We stayed at the campsite at Achnahaird, brilliant place but closing in October for good. From there we motorbiked it along all the roads in this part, Reiff, Old Dornie, Achiltibuie, Badenscallie,Achduart. Your only worry on these dead end roads is having enough room to turn round but on thewhole, there is usually a turning area.

The unclassified road from Aird of Coigach is also doable, we did this in our 23 ft motorhome, but it is steep in parts, as you have noted, and narrow. Passing places are small and there is nowere really to stop on the coast, not even at Inverkirkaig.I'm not sure Nick would drive our van along this one again,(he admitted it was the hairiest he'd done ad we've been on some good ones!!) but at least you know you are coming out somewhere at the other end and don't have the worry of it being a dead end!!

I'm sure you will find it all a doddle in a smaller van!! Enjoy, it's a marvellous part of the world.

I am gradually building my pages on our holiday to this area on Virtual Tourist but it's a slow job, having seen so many places!!


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for that I'll put the that OS map away and try not to get the rest of the Scottish ones out for a while.


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## 113044 (Jun 6, 2008)

Did you see the bronze plaque on the lighthouse there?? In our little foundry in Wales we made oval bronze plaques for all the Northern Lighthouse Board lighthouses.,,,,,,,,, We are trying to get to see all of them but I guess it'll take a couple of life-times to get around to them all


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

Which lighthouse? Stoer?


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

Frank, if you need any ideas for places to camp, let me know. Have done most of the west of Scotland.


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## 113044 (Jun 6, 2008)

nickandchris said:


> Which lighthouse? Stoer?


No the Cape Wrath one,,,,,, a lot of the plaques heve been stolen off the more accessable light-houses requiring yet more work from us to replace them. I was wondering if the CW plaque is still there, it would take a bit of stealth and nerve to pinch that and get it out on the bus


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## 97339 (Jan 18, 2006)

I'm not sure, we didn't go to Cape Wrath. We visited Stoer and Rhuba Reidh. Don't know about any plaques, though.Sorry!!


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

boyo1414 said:


> nickandchris said:
> 
> 
> > Which lighthouse? Stoer?
> ...


Hi Boyo, no I wasn't looking for plaques at the time!
As you said it would be a bit of cheek to nick it, conceal it and get the bus back to the ferry!
Stilll if it has gone more work (and revenue) for you!
I guess the Cape Wrath one would be a bit of a collectors item.
cheers
Vidura


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## 106916 (Sep 8, 2007)

sallytrafic said:


> one question prompted by your posts vidura and nickandchris
> 
> I was hoping to leave the A835 Near Drumrunie go via Inverpolly to Achnahaird then go as far as possible around to the south Achtilbuie and further.
> 
> ...


Hi Frank, I'll yield to Nick and Chris on this - they are the experienced experts up here - we are still novices - just enjoying the learning experiences.
I'll definitely be checking in with them about any proposed iffy roads if only to reassure Karuna - my wife and holder of all traveling permissions


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