# Converting Fluorescence light to LED



## kiwibrit (Feb 19, 2012)

Id Like to convert the lights in our van ...they are the flatish oblong type with two mini fluorecent tubes in. I was wondering if there was a retrofit bulb set, has anyone done this or any poniters. Cheers!


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## wakk44 (Jun 15, 2006)

I think you will have to replace the complete light fitting with an led one,it is also possible to get led strips with a self adhesive backing which can be cut to the required length.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

If they're 12v (some only work on EHU) and you're a bit handy, simply remove the tube and if possible remove the tube connection to expose the wires, identify which is the +ve and -ve wires and label if not coloured wires, then fit an LED ribbon, you can get adhesive ones which will stick to the fitting, just make sure you get the polarity right and you're done, some fittings have two tubes, so just fit one ribbon check when it gets dark if its bright enough, and if not fit another.

I'll let the others argue over which type of LEDs you should get as it's a personal preference I wouldn't presume to know your choice.

PS you might have to take the whole fitting down if it's a bit awkward to work with, possibly easier to sit at the dinette in comfort anyway.


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## VanFlair (Nov 21, 2009)

Hi Kev

Dont you have to make sure that you connect to 12volts and not to the output from the ballast starter or whatever it is that fires the original flourescent tube, so that would mean connecting back to the switch if there is one mounted on the light unit and bypassing all the internals.

Martin


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## lgbzone (Oct 8, 2008)

I was rather surprised at the setup i found when i replaced the fluorescent tubes in our van, big one in the kitchen and two small ones, one above the front drop down bed the other above the fixed bed at the rear.

each light had a 12v supply to it's switch which then went on to a small inverter board in the back of the light, the 230v output from the inverters then fed the lights.

I removed the inverters, tube end holders and tubes, then connected the 12v supplies from the switches straight to sticky backed led strips i was replacing the tubes with.

in the bedrooms i used smaller LEDs (I think 35/28 or similar) in warm white, these have 30 leds per metre and i think i used a length of 9 LEDs. in the kitchen i used the fluorescent replacements (from aten lighting) which are cool white 50/50 with 60 leds per metre and i used about 50cm.

In the kitchen of our hymer there are 2 small dark brown switches for the 12v fan and for the kitchen light, but there is also a blanking piece in between them for a third switch. i managed to source an exact same third switch off ebay, so installed a length of 6 warm white 35/28 leds, alongside the fluorescent replacement ones, meaning i have the choice between bright working light or far dimmer evening mood light in the kitchen area.

hope this helps
Lee


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

I'm not sure why you would bother to be honest as there is no LED with the equivalent lumen output to a fluorescent tube ( generally 80/100 lumens per watt ) so by the time you have crammed four or five strips of LED tape into your fitting you are back at square one. I have kept the existing 8 watt fluors in place for when you need a good overall light and converted eveythimg else to retrofit LED s depending on the lamp type - the cheap Chinese ones off eBay are fine


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

VanFlair said:


> Hi Kev
> 
> Dont you have to make sure that you connect to 12volts and not to the output from the ballast starter or whatever it is that fires the original flourescent tube, so that would mean connecting back to the switch if there is one mounted on the light unit and bypassing all the internals.
> 
> Martin


Mine didn't have a ballast, just tube end fitting and I fitted more or less as described, but if there was one, I'd just connect where the wires go into the ballast rather than back to the switch but either would do the job.


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## tonka (Apr 24, 2006)

In my old Autotrail I just removed the tube and left all original fittings in place. Then got some LED strip off ebay.
Stuck the strip underneath the cupboards and feed the supply from the 12v supply before it went into the original fluorescent fitting. This way nothing has been dissturbed and I can always revert back if required or in an emergency plus the tubes in.
"scotch locks " are a good way to make a quick connection as well to the original wires...


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

1302 said:


> I'm not sure why you would bother to be honest as there is no LED with the equivalent lumen output to a fluorescent tube ( generally 80/100 lumens per watt ) so by the time you have crammed four or five strips of LED tape into your fitting you are back at square one. I have kept the existing 8 watt fluors in place for when you need a good overall light and converted eveythimg else to retrofit LED s depending on the lamp type - the cheap Chinese ones off eBay are fine


I didn't do any numbers on it, the tubes didn't work and I already had the strips so I just fitted one, more than enough light to eat by, which is where the light fitting was.

I'll be using Strips all over the build as I think all MH light fittings look awful, concealed is the way forward


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## blackbirdbiker (Mar 12, 2007)

I've just replaced a 13watt and an 18watt florescent tube with leds and found they draw about half the amount of current.

I bought 5 meters of self adhesive leds that are on ebay for £8, I chose warm white.

Simply remove all existing components and stick the strip to the underside of the housing and wire in.

I found that 4 lengths of the strip to be a little brighter than the florescent tube but not quite as soft.

If you are are dab hand with the soldering iron, the left over leds can be rewired and used on another light. :wink: 

The change in the type of light suits us but others may have a different opinion, also we don't do many hookups so battery power is important.

Keith


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

1302 said:


> I'm not sure why you would bother to be honest as there is no LED with the equivalent lumen output to a fluorescent tube ( generally 80/100 lumens per watt ) so by the time you have crammed four or five strips of LED tape into your fitting you are back at square one. I have kept the existing 8 watt fluors in place for when you need a good overall light and converted eveythimg else to retrofit LED s depending on the lamp type - the cheap Chinese ones off eBay are fine


I have more or less done the same, ie, kept the florescent tubes x4 , but replaced all the halogens x 13, in our Hymer.

Regards,

Jock.


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## Spacerunner (Mar 18, 2006)

I replaced the 20watt halogen kitchen light with a twin florescent fitting which, in turn I replaced with a LED fitting.
The fluorescent fitting was rated at ~18watts almost identical to the LED fitting.
The advantage of the LED? Almost 4 times the light output.
BTW changing fittings was just a matter of straight replacement and no funny supply problems.


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> 1302 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not sure why you would bother to be honest
> ...


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

blackbirdbiker said:


> I've just replaced a 13watt and an 18watt florescent tube with leds and found they draw about half the amount of current.


and therefore give out half the light


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

JockandRita said:


> halogens x 13, in our Hymer.
> 
> .


Flash gits   :lol:


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

1302 said:


> blackbirdbiker said:
> 
> 
> > I've just replaced a 13watt and an 18watt florescent tube with leds and found they draw about half the amount of current.
> ...


How do you work that one out?? 8O

Light output has nothing to do with current. A considerable current flows through your hook-up cable, but it doesn't glow in the dark . . . I hope!! :lol: :lol:

Light output is measured in lumens, and some of the latest LEDs emit an intense light while drawing a fraction of the current used by fluorescent tubes or other lamp types.

Dave


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

Zebedee said:


> [
> Light output has nothing to do with current. A considerable current flows through your hook-up cable, but it doesn't glow in the dark . . . I hope!! :lol: :lol:
> 
> Light output is measured in lumens, and some of the latest LEDs emit an intense light while drawing a fraction of the current used by fluorescent tubes or other lamp types.
> ...


I know - and I am fully aware about 'lumens and light output' 

The highest lumen per watt figures as used by the industry as a guideline would be high pressure sodium at 100 lumens per watt (it isnt a current based calcualtion just a 'fact')

400watt HPS runs at 440watt (with losses) and its lumen output is 45000/47000 dependent on manufature therefore 100 lumens per watt. Most fluorescents are around 80 lumens per watt.

Highest ever lumen per watt figures for LED, and that would be a very expensive quality lamp - not the crap we buy from China) equates to 80 lumens per watt. Ergo - if a manufacturer tells us their lamp runs at just 16 watts then its lumen output is 1400 lumens - the 18 watt fluor tube it replaced has a higher lumen output than that.

I spend a lot of my working life dispelling the untruths told about LED  I dont dislike LEDs (I fitted then in my own vehicle) but the manufacturer tell a lot of lies  If you can live with the lower light output then fine - it helps certainly with everyones leisure battery.

There are fools out there telling people that a 140watt LED floodlight can replace a 400 watt HPS yet its output is 12000 lumens - regardless of its much tighter beam (therefore appearing brighter when you satre at it) it cannot replace 45000 lumens

I could on on further but I'll spare you all


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

OK, and thanks for that.

But why do our decent (_not eBay crap from China_) SMD LEDs give more light than the halogens and fluorescents they replaced, using a fraction of the current? :?

Dave


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

They 'appear' to have more light as the beam is much much tighter than a halogen equivalent with most light pushed forward. Some LED lamps have a beam of less than 10 degrees. A halogen is a 'splodger' giving light all over the shop.

The LEDs in my kitchen look brighter than the 50watt halogens they replaced and are only 9watt but I live with the dull bits in between for the saving in juice. I sometimes have to wander under a lamp to read stuff :lol:


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

[quote="1302"when looking for a needle in a haystack/something in the locker  [/quote]

Thanks.

That's given me the idea of running LEDS through the upper lockers with a set of 3 LEDs in each one, a single switch for each side of the van, Should be a doddle for most people, I hate dark lockers.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

1302 said:


> They 'appear' to have more light as the beam is much much tighter than a halogen equivalent with most light pushed forward. Some LED lamps have a beam of less than 10 degrees. A halogen is a 'splodger' giving light all over the shop.
> 
> The LEDs in my kitchen look brighter than the 50watt halogens they replaced and are only 9watt but I live with the dull bits in between for the saving in juice. I sometimes have to wander under a lamp to read stuff :lol:


Yu lern sumfink noo evry da,


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> Yu lern sumfink noo evry da,


Welcum bak Shuggy :lol:


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## aikidoamigo (Aug 11, 2011)

put a strip of LED's in their place and wire them in... how good would that look behind the cover... almost like a 2012 van!


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## teljoy (Jul 4, 2005)

Never did understand electrickery. All I do know is that I had fluorescent lights in our autosleeper of the type that were 2 x 8 watt (I think), four of them flat fittings plus 2 halogen reading lights.

With the advice from Dave (Zebedee) and Aten Lighting I replaced them with LED strips and bulbs. I took the ballast out and connected to the switch. Easy job and very pleased with the result and am saving on leisure battery when using aires. The resulting light is approximately the same (would not even know what a lumen is) and am very satisfied.



That was my yardstick when deciding to do the job.

Terry


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## camallison (Jul 15, 2009)

I tried all sorts of alternatives and eventually found that this did the job. It is surprisingly bright for its size. It may seem expensive, but worth it for me.

Colin


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Stanner said:


> Kev_n_Liz said:
> 
> 
> > Yu lern sumfink noo evry da,
> ...


Nice one I think :lol: :lol:


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## jerseyt (Feb 6, 2012)

Try this company, i was given this link from another forum.

http://www.searolf.com/page54a.html

Haven't bought mine yet as just about to change campervans this week.

Cheers
Tracey


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## trevd01 (Oct 26, 2007)

camallison said:


> I tried all sorts of alternatives and eventually found that this did the job. It is surprisingly bright for its size. It may seem expensive, but worth it for me.
> 
> Colin


these are:

Lumen Output: 430 lumens for Cool White (Approximately equal to a 45 watt bulb).
Power usage: 5 watts

(see 1302's posts above)

I like (need as I get older) bright light to read by, and had concluded that LEDs would not give me the light output I need if I replaced the 'fluors' with LEDs in our van ( from memory there are nine).

So we just switch off the ones we dont need to reduce power consumption. We already have LED spotlights, though, as originally fitted by Murvi.


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## 1302 (Apr 4, 2006)

trevd01 said:


> [
> Lumen Output: 430 lumens for Cool White (Approximately equal to a 45 watt bulb).
> Power usage: 5 watts
> 
> (see 1302's posts above)


That all seems plausible lumen-wise 

For the record when comparing LED lumens to tungsten - they are very favourible - not so when we talk 'discharge' ie HPS/MBI/Fluor


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## blackbirdbiker (Mar 12, 2007)

1302 said:


> blackbirdbiker said:
> 
> 
> > I've just replaced a 13watt and an 18watt florescent tube with leds and found they draw about half the amount of current.
> ...


Like I said in my post, I found what I did to be brighter than the florescent tubes, but I dont have access to a light output analyser to prove it now that I am retired from electronics.

Keith


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## kiwibrit (Feb 19, 2012)

geeee....Thank You all


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