# Hymer Driving Door Security Lock



## 113016

Although our Exsis has the excellent Strickback alarm with an extra siren and Millenco window alarms, I have been thinking of adding door security locks.
I had the habitacion security lock from Harrison Locks in Worcester, on my previous Hymer, but I doubt if the same type will fit onto the newer doors. I am not interested in the after market external locks as they clearly show when your M/H is unoccupied.
My Hymer is a 2011 with external door seals and the hab door is easy to sort out, I can easily find a lock to fit. But the drivers door, or I should say passenger door is a different matter. I can fix a chain, but this would not show from the outside and therefore be no deterrent.
I have removed the trim (small removable part by the lock) and I can see a pre welded metal plate to accommodate an internal security lock. It is pre drilled to take a full house size barrel and it looks like the locking bolt will shoot upwards, preventing the original door lock from opening. Looking further, I don't think the security lock which fitted my previous Hymer would fit.
What lock has anybody fitted on this door?, please bear in mind the door I have described as earlier doors will be different!


----------



## lgbzone

Hi Grath

I'm not familiar with the setup you have as out Hymer is far older, however is the lock in the link below of interest? I've just received one for our van, it is aftermarket but can be locked from both the inside and outside.

< link >

Lee


----------



## 113016

lgbzone said:


> Hi Grath
> 
> I'm not familiar with the setup you have as out Hymer is far older, however is the lock in the link below of interest? I've just received one for our van, it is aftermarket but can be locked from both the inside and outside.
> 
> < link >
> 
> Lee


Thanks Lee, I do know that one! and possibly ???
The problem that I have with that lock, is that to the people who don't know the lock, they would think that when it is locked, that the van is unoccupied. I like them to think that it might be occupied.
I am really trying to source a barrel lock type.
I have also been in contact with Harrison Locks and have sent photographs, which they are looking into.
Thanks again.


----------



## Mrplodd

Personally (as an ex copper) I would stop worrying about the VERY small chance of my MH getting broken into and just get on with enjoying it. If the worse happens that what you have paid your insurance for :roll: :roll: 

If someone wants to get into your MH then they are going to (think how secure all of the "plastic" windows and feeble window catches are)

In fact you have now got me thinking about how many MH have ever been broken into. I think I will now go off and put a poll question on asking exactly that !!!


----------



## 113016

I totally agree Mr Plodd, if they want to get in, they will and as you say, the windows are a 2 second job to get through.
All I want is to persuade them that their are easier targets 

I think it depends on which country a person is visiting as to the risk factor.


----------



## lgbzone

Grath said:


> The problem that I have with that lock, is that to the people who don't know the lock, they would think that when it is locked, that the van is unoccupied. I like them to think that it might be occupied.


Hi Grath

No worries mate.
I understand what you're saying i had/have very similar reservations, i plan to fit it to the hab door (already has the hand rail type) to lock it late evening or when going to bed.

there potentially could be a negative effect whereby we are in bed but they think we are out due to the lock, having said that; the fact that the fiamma handrail thing would remain unlocked should make them question this. it's a relatively new lock type and i expect over time it will become more well known and common.

Good luck with the search i hope you get sorted!

cheers

p.s. having taken it out of the box i'm surprised how substantial and long it is, considering fitting one to the drivers door as well :roll:


----------



## bognormike

I've seen Hymers of various ages with yale-type locks fitted to the door, not sure how the "behind the scenes" stuff works, thogh


----------



## javea

I have tried to attach photos of the lock that I purchased from Harrisons to fit on the driver's door (lhd), but can't seem to do it on an iPad.

So, I will try and describe it in words. They supply a round lock barrel, similar to a Yale lock, together with a circular steel plate which sits under the barrel to privide strengthening, and this sits on the outside of the door.

Internally on my Hymer B544SL there is a panel a little way down the door which pulls out; inside this space there is a panel specifically designed to take the lock fitting. You drill the appropriately sized hole to take the tongue that comes from the outer barrel to mate with the rectangular inner part of the lock. When you activate the lock a rectangular piece of metal emerges from the inner 'box' and this travels over the door jamb to lock the door. As the inner mechanism is hidden from view it is not possible for someone to break the window and open the door.

It may sound complicated to fit from the above description but I did it fairly easily and if you have basic DIY skills you should achieve the result you want quite easily.

I understand what Mrplodd is saying but I am of the view that external security may encourage the thief to look for an easier target. Windows can be easily dealt with by Milenco window alarms, I defy anyone to stay asleep when one of those is activated.

Mike


----------



## peejay

Graham,

Similar to Mike (Javea)

You should be able to fit the Abus/Heosafe deadlock to your drivers door, Paul Harrison did a great job of mine. 
The interior part of the lock itself is covered completely by the internal door trim apart from where the bolt shoots out, this means it can't be locked/unlocked from inside the vehicle but I'm happy with that as the other abus habitation door deadlock can be opened from inside as well as outside. 
I would think Paul would be able to do similar to yours.
Both locks are keyed alike on mine.

Belt and braces, I've also got similar abus deadlocks on the garage doors as well.

Had this set up on my previous van and combined with the alarm it did foil a potential break in.

Pete


----------



## 113016

I take it, you guys are talking about this one

http://www.motorhomelocks.co.uk/Home.php

I fitted one of these to my last Hymer, and on the hab door it is easy to fit, but I wondered about the drivers door.
Paul from Harrisons seems to think it will fit with a packing of about one inch.

The link shows it fitted to the older style door.


----------



## peejay

Quick piccie of mine if it helps....

Pete


----------



## 113016

Thanks Pete, it is the same lock, but the door has changed a little.
Paul from Harrison says he has fitted one, but had to fit a 20/25 mm spacer, and was a little vague. I just need to know if the same lock will fit onto the new style door.
Thanks again!


----------



## 113016

Just been speaking to Paul at Harrison Locks and after measuring at my end and Paul at his end, I have concluded that the lock will fit.
So 4 ordered.
The packing will need to be between 1 1/4" and 1 1/2"
Incidentally, Paul was very helpful. 
I had one of these lock on my previous Hymer and I was very happy with the product and the service, hence my new repeat business order


----------



## lgbzone

have to admit; they do look good.

Lee


----------



## 113016

What excellent service  
Paul from Harrison Locks is passing our area this morning and will be meeting me at to a near by M way junction to drop the locks off.
Fantastic


----------



## 113016

Sorted my photographs and here is a photo of the drivers door (passenger door) lock which I have fitted today


----------



## 113016

I will be cutting a small round hole in the small removable part of the trim to enable a tool to be pushed through.
This will enable locking and unlocking from inside the van.
Even is a toe rag smashes a window to reach into the lock, they will be unable to access the lock without the tool!

I still have three locks to fit, but the above was the difficult one, as unusual shaped packings needed to be made, to fit between the lock and the plate inside the door skin.The others will be easy, as they will fit directly onto the inside of the hab and garage doors!

This is what the inside was like


----------



## lgbzone

Grath said:


> Sorted my photographs and here is a photo of the drivers door (passenger door) lock which I have fitted today


Looks fantastic that Grath, put pics up of the others once they're done.

What year was your older Hymer? actually considering something like this for mine on the drivers door.

Thanks


----------



## 113016

lgbzone said:


> Grath said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorted my photographs and here is a photo of the drivers door (passenger door) lock which I have fitted today
> 
> 
> 
> Looks fantastic that Grath, put pics up of the others once they're done.
> 
> What year was your older Hymer? actually considering something like this for mine on the drivers door.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I have had a 2000, 2004 and the Exsis is 2011, but new in 2012
I had one of these locks on the 2004 hab door.


----------



## javea

Grath said:


> I will be cutting a small round hole in the small removable part of the trim to enable a tool to be pushed through.
> This will enable locking and unlocking from inside the van.
> Even is a toe rag smashes a window to reach into the lock, they will be unable to access the lock without the tool!
> /quote
> 
> I didn't bother with setting up some method of unlocking from the inside, just lower the window and put the key into the lock and turn it.
> 
> Mike


----------



## 113016

javea said:


> Grath said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will be cutting a small round hole in the small removable part of the trim to enable a tool to be pushed through.
> This will enable locking and unlocking from inside the van.
> Even is a toe rag smashes a window to reach into the lock, they will be unable to access the lock without the tool!
> /quote
> 
> I didn't bother with setting up some method of unlocking from the inside, just lower the window and put the key into the lock and turn it.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mike,
> it would be difficult with the internal blinds drawn, and outside screens up. :lol:
> I was thinking of a small length of thin tube, with the ends rolled over to fit the knob.
> I think, if I don't do this, I might be tempted to drive with it locked meaning no easy escape route in any accident.
Click to expand...


----------



## javea

Hi Grath, be interested to see your solution and if it is not too involved I may well follow your lead!

Mike


----------



## 113016

javea said:


> Hi Grath, be interested to see your solution and if it is not too involved I may well follow your lead!
> 
> Mike


Hi Mike
I was thinking of a piece of tube of about 1 inch diameter, cut at the end so that it fits over the narrow side of the lock knob.
This would mean a 1 inch round hole in the trim.
Alternatively and a bigger job, would be to reduce the size of the knob and use a smaller tube.
Maybe I could fit some sort of swinging flap over the hole, something similar to the brass covers over some Yale type locks.


----------



## 113016

Today, I have fitted the other three locks. One on the hab door and one on each side garage door. Quite easy as just a simple 1/2 inch packing required.
It took me an average of 2 hr per lock, getting quicker on each subsequent fitting.
However the front drivers door took me over 4 hours, but I did have to mess with packings.
Anyway, all done now


----------



## 113016

javea said:


> Hi Grath, be interested to see your solution and if it is not too involved I may well follow your lead!
> 
> Mike


Hi javea.
I cut a hole in the trim, capable of taking the tool I have made, and I will be fitting a cover over the hole similar to a house door peep hole cover. The type that has a single screw at the top, allowing the hole to be exposed just by a single type pendulum movement.
Here is the tool, it was only supposed to be a prototype, but I might just keep it as it is not on show.
I could have put a slot in the door lock knob, and used a much thinner tool, maybe even screw driver shank thickness, but that would have been much more fiddly to use.
The tool goes straight on,over the lock knob, with no messing.
It is very light.


----------



## javea

Hi Graham,

Thank you very much for going to the trouble of posting the photos of your 'mod'. Looks good to me so I am going to follow your lead.  

Mike


----------



## 113016

javea said:


> Hi Graham,
> 
> Thank you very much for going to the trouble of posting the photos of your 'mod'. Looks good to me so I am going to follow your lead.
> 
> Mike


Thanks Mike.
You have given me some idea's in the past, (headlights comes to mind) and it is nice to be able to reciprocate.  
Good to bounce idea's off each other


----------



## 113016

Regarding the tool.
The bolt which I fitted which was to make a sort of handle, was not really necessary. As long as the lock turns freely, just the tube would be sufficient. Maybe a couple of grips on the tube would suffice!


----------



## javea

Morning Graham,

Have been playing with your idea of the internal unlocking device and come up with a slight modification which results in a smaller hole in the door panel. Photos to illustrate what I have done below.

Cut a small piece of ply the same size as the handle on the lock. Araldited a 6mm screw with a nylock nut already attached to the ply and then self tapped the block to the handle. Screw is not exactly at right angles to the ply but it works well. The screw has deliberately been left long as it helps locate the tube socket onto the nut. I will modify the tube to create a handle. Will probably get a friend to weld the screw onto a piece of steel now I know that the device works.



















Mike


----------



## 113016

Hi Mike, good idea, and I expect it will work well.
I also did think of a permanent interior handle, but decided against it just in case :roll: 
The just in case was just in case some low life had managed to break a side window and attempted to lean in and reach the handle to open the door.
Apparently, this is one method they use on the habitation door. On the hab door, I fitted it low and just our of reach. This also stops them bending the door up!
The other way which I though of, was similar to yours, with a smaller hole, but with a removable handle.
In the end, I couldn't be bothered to make more work and I thing that when I fit a swinging cover, (similar to a key hole cover) it will look OK.
Thanks for your idea's, and photo's, it is a well thought out alternative.
At the end of the day, no matter what we do, they will get in if they really want to. I just hope they see the security and move along the row.
Thanks again Mike!

edit.
Mike, I just reread your post and I think I got it wrong! You are still using a removable tube which goes over the nut. You should be able to get an off the shelf key hole cover which will fit.


----------



## javea

Hi Graham,

Decided that the ply base was a bit of a bodge so used a piece of steel and bolted the nut and bolt together, no need to weld.

Yes, I am still going to use the tube to operate, like you.

I agree that if a thief really wants to get in he will, but take the view that if your motorhome looks more secure than neighbouring ones he will take the easier option. If it gives us a sense of security then in my book it's worth while.

Mk II looks like this:










Pity I didn't have matching screws!

Mike


----------



## 113016

Looks good Mike, agree about the screw, but it is out of sight and as long as it's strong and does the job, that is what matters.
good solution!
Thanks
Out of interest, what was the knob like to drill into. I take it, you did not remove, and drilled for a self tapper.


----------



## javea

Grath said:


> Looks good Mike, agree about the screw, but it is out of sight and as long as it's strong and does the job, that is what matters.
> good solution!
> Thanks
> Out of interest, what was the knob like to drill into. I take it, you did not remove, and drilled for a self tapper.


No problem Graham. Confirm I did not remove the knob. Used a very small drill initially and it went through fairly easily. The knob is hollow on the 'wings'. Yiu can drill without fear. 

Mike


----------



## 113016

Hi Mike.
I think that your bolt on the knob idea is an improvement on my original idea as your method will require a hole about half of the size of mine.
But I am not overly concerned about the larger hole size, as I will make a nice removable cover, which will look like it should be there.
Thanks for your input and improvements.  
This is what Facts is all about, bouncing ideas off each other


----------



## rocky1968

*,*

graham u still got ur mh


----------



## 113016

*Re: ,*



rocky1968 said:


> graham u still got ur mh


Morning  err, I think the above posts answer your question :lol: 
Just returned from Germany etc, and about to go off again, Soon


----------



## rocky1968

*.*

Alright just asking


----------



## 113016

H, call if you like


----------



## rocky1968

*M*

Text me ur number


----------



## Garcia

Grath,
If you're mainly concerned about making potential burglars think there are easier targets, why not simply use your visible chain deterrent?
I use such a device. A theif would have to make a lot of noise and cause a lot of damage. Making it visible clearly shows the potential thief that there are easier targets 
Garcia


----------



## 113016

Thanks Garcia, but all done and dusted  
I used to use a chain across thye cab doors on my T Class, but with an A Class it is not so easy, and with curtains drawn, they are not visible anyway.
As I said, all done and dusted and very happy with the result


----------



## Baron1

Hi,
I am about to fit a couple of the Heosafe Abus DeadBolts to the "drivers" door and the habitation door of my 2005 Hymer B584.
The drivers door has a removeable blank on the inside which, when removed, reveals an internal metal plate pre drilled to accept one of these locks.
My questions are:
Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of before drilling four holes through the outer skin of the door with an 11mm drill bit and what do I use to drill out the 33mm hole for the barrel? 
Also, as I haven't had time to take a proper look yet, is the habitation door similarly pre drilled?
I am a bit nervous about this job as a few years ago a friend of mine had one of these locks fitted to a brand new Hymer by a dealer, who shall remain nameless, and they bent the door so badly that a new door had to be fitted!! 
Any advice as to how to fit these locks would be much appreciated.

Rgds Mel.


----------



## 113016

Hi Baron.
I can't answer for your lock, but the four which I have just fitted and one I fitted to my previous van, only needed the outer door skin for the drilled for the barrel.
See photographs in thread.
Sorry, I can't help further


----------



## Baron1

Hi Graham,
Which locks did you fit?
Rgds Mel.


----------



## javea

Hi Mel,

I fitted the same sort of lock as Grath I believe. It was sourced from Harrison Locks in Worcester. Like you I was a little concerned about drilling the door but in practice it was not a problem.

Did mine about three years ago so the method is not crystal clear in my memory, however to drill the 33mm hole for the barrel I bought a metal hole cutter from Screwfix.

If you are reasonably careful you will not damage the door.

Mike


----------



## 113016

Here it is Mel, it is all documented in this thread that you have posted in.

This is the lock
http://www.motorhomelocks.co.uk/Home.php

Sorry, I won't be able to help more as off on tour in the morning.

Check the complete thread out, it should help!


----------



## Baron1

Thanks for that Graham, I will order a couple of those from Paul Harrison as they look pretty much the same as the Abus locks I was looking at (slightly cheaper too).
Have a great trip and thanks again.
Mike,
I figured it would be a hole cutter job, my plan is to centre the hole from the inside of the door with a pilot hole and then cut through from the outside, do you remember if that's how you did it?

Rgds Mel.


----------



## 113016

Baron1 said:


> Thanks for that Graham, I will order a couple of those from Paul Harrison as they look pretty much the same as the Abus locks I was looking at (slightly cheaper too).
> Have a great trip and thanks again.
> Mike,
> I figured it would be a hole cutter job, my plan is to centre the hole from the inside of the door with a pilot hole and then cut through from the outside, do you remember if that's how you did it?
> 
> Rgds Mel.


Good morning Mel.
I just had a quick look for the last time before I depart.
I measured and marked the spot on the outside. The up and down is not too critical, but the sideways needs to be reasonably accurate to get the shoot bolt to shoot across to the desired length.
I first, drilled from the outside with a very small pilot hole, then a second drill with 1/8 inch bit. Then the third and final with the hole saw which also has about 1/4 inch inner drill bit.
If you use the smaller bits first, it will stop any possibility of the hole saw bit slipping sideways and scratching the door.
Give Paul a ring, he is very helpful and does not work from the shop.
edit

The locks come with some plastic packings, you may need to pack out further with some hard wood or suitable ply, such as marine.
I fitted four and needed to pack all!
Make sure you use a sealer behind the barrel outer lip, to stop any rain water entering, but be careful, not to get this in the key hole.
After fitting, it would be a good idea to lubricate the key hole.
Also when you finally fit it, if you have aligned it properly, the key will turn freely. If it is not aligned it will be stiff!
Fit it first as a dry run, then remove and fit properly.


----------



## Baron1

Thanks again Graham,
I will have to drill the first pilot hole from the inside of the door as it will have to be centred in the middle of the pre drilled plate, after that I will do as you suggest and work from the outside (with plenty of masking tape as a belt and braces approach in case of any slips).
I have emailed Paul re whether his locks have the same drilling centres as the pre drilled plate and will probably call him later for a chat.
Many Thanks again and have a good trip!
Mel.


----------



## 113016

Thanks Mel
Mel, I have added to my above post!


----------



## harrison

Hi Graham I just picked up on this post thanks to Mel he told me about it and as ordered a pair of locks, I,m glad you made a good job of the cab door thanks for the good reports, if anybody needs any help contact me before fitting

Paul Harrison


----------



## javea

Baron1 said:


> Thanks for that Graham, I will order a couple of those from Paul Harrison as they look pretty much the same as the Abus locks I was looking at (slightly cheaper too).
> Have a great trip and thanks again.
> Mike,
> I figured it would be a hole cutter job, my plan is to centre the hole from the inside of the door with a pilot hole and then cut through from the outside, do you remember if that's how you did it?
> 
> Rgds Mel.


Sorry for the delayed response Mel, only just picked up your post.

I am fairly certain that I did as you suggest, drill a small pilot hole from the inside to make sure you have centred it properly, if for any reason it goes off a bit the small hole can be 'adjusted' with a larger drill. It sounds daunting but in practice I found it fairly easy.

Mike


----------



## 113016

We have just returned from our latest tour, and we felt our van was as secure as it is possible to be. We think that with the extra door locks clearly showing, along with the Strikeback alarm, complete with warning stickers, also Millenco window alarms fitted, any prospective thief would think, there must be easier targets.
OK, if they really want to get in, they will, as we all know the windows are a weak point, but all a person can do is take precautions.


----------

