# 230 to 12 volt



## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Today I smelled a bit of burnt electrical odors and now it seems that the 230 part of my elektroblok is not working. The light on the control panel is off and it doesn't show a charge on the meter. All the 12v side seems to work fine as does the fridge on 230 and the 230 volt outlets. The basic wiring diagram shows the fridge and outlets separate from the inverter. The battery shows a good charging voltage with the motor running. This is on my Hymer 644 year 2000. Can these things be fixed or am I going to have to buy a new one.


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## Goldwinger (May 10, 2005)

Hymer Electroblock Problem had the same problem a while ago read this thread brilliant service and fast. someone will be along to help.


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## Goldwinger (May 10, 2005)

Send an e-mail to this man he is very helpful <[email protected]> 
Then send it via secure service to here Schaudt GmbH 
Elektrotechnik & Apparatebau

Daimlerstr. 5 
D - 88677 Markdorf Germany 
Telefon: +49 (0)7544/9577-0 
Fax: +49 (0)7544/9577-29 Electrical systems. If you need further guidance send a poem to Clivemott he writes very good info on here.


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## Goldwinger (May 10, 2005)

Sorry send a PM not a poem its those spell checkers again.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Thanks for the help so far, so it looks like these things can be repaired. I wonder how much a new one would cost if they are even available.


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## clive1821 (Mar 27, 2010)

Yep sounds like the switch mode power supply in the unit has gone... if I recall the repair cost are around £150.00 cheaper than buying a new one... if you need the van for say 3 weeks just use a 20amp battery charger to keep things going untill you can be with out the electrics for 2 to 3 weeks...


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## inkey-2008 (May 24, 2008)

Or just get a decent battery charger that will do the the engine and habition and wire that in.

Andy


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

inkey-2008 said:


> Or just get a decent battery charger that will do the the engine and habition and wire that in.
> 
> Andy


That is an interesting idea, I can imagine wiring it in to one or the other of the two batteries, but how do I hook it up to both without losing the separation between the two batteries?


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

clive1821 said:


> Yep sounds like the switch mode power supply in the unit has gone... if I recall the repair cost are around £150.00 cheaper than buying a new one... if you need the van for say 3 weeks just use a 20amp battery charger to keep things going untill you can be with out the electrics for 2 to 3 weeks...


I wonder how difficult a repair that might be. Would it make any sense to have a look inside myself? Or is it way too technical.


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## pippin (Nov 15, 2007)

My job as a TV repairer made me very much an expert at tackling switched-mode power supply faults.

However, without a circuit diagram it can be very, very difficult to do, especially if any of the resistors have literally burned out obscuring their value markings.

Not a job for the amateur I'm afraid.
(there can be dangerous voltages inside even long after the mains has been disconnected)

I might have a look inside my own EBL and note the component values.

At £150 a pop it could be a lucrative sideline in my retirement!

I wonder if Schaudt repair the pcb or just replace it.


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## CliveMott (Mar 10, 2008)

There is a lot to be said for fitting an alternative charger on a permanent basis!
Do these words look familiar?

CTEK MULTI XS 25000 Fig8 £209.99 Roadpro 30.01.10
The familiar CTEK shape is used for this top of the range 25 amp fan cooled charger designed for charging batteries from 50 to 500 Ampere hours. It is supplied with a fitted mains lead (13 amp plug fitted) and a pair of substantial DC leads terminated with powerful crocodile clips. The positive crocodile clip also includes a temperature sensor to monitor the battery temperature via its connecting post. The main box is 235mm X 65mm X 130mm. The AC lead is 1.8M long and the DC lead 1.9M long. The crocodile clips could be removed and replaced with ring terminals and the temperature sensor clamped directly to a battery for permanent installations. The case includes two ventilation holes, one each end and four fixing holes to enable it to be permanently fitted in position. On the surface of the case is a MODE button which allows the user to select operating mode. 12 LEDs show mode selected and charge progress. Modes selectable are NORMAL which is required for most charging applications. SUPPLY which maintains a constant voltage at the output, even if no battery is connected. RECOND for recovering deeply discharged batteries when higher voltages are applied to the battery to stir the electrolyte and gassing should be expected. Batteries should be disconnected from other circuits when RECOND mode is in use. Reverse DC polarity protection is included and if cross connected no damage or excessive currents will flow. The charging cycle includes eight steps. The cooling fan is not excessively noisy but runs continuously during charging.
1	De-sulphation. This pulses a totally flat battery until the terminal voltage has risen sufficiently for proper charging to start
2	Soft start.	Charges at maximum current for a maximum of 4 hours or until the battery vootage has risen above 12.6 volts.
3	Bulk Charges at up to maximum current for a maximum of 20 hours or until the critical gassing voltage is reached.
4	Absorbtion	Charges at 14.4 volts until the current has fallen below 4.5 A for a maximum of 12 hours.
5	Analysis	Tests if the battery retains its energy by stopping charge and monitoring the fall of battery voltage.
6	Recond ONLY USED IN RECOND MODE Max15.8v and 3A for 4 hours max.
7	Float 13.6 volts at up to max current for up to 10 days.
8	Pulse Maintenance mode for maximum battery life. Pulse starts at 12.9 volts and stops at 14.4 volts.


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## Jezport (Jun 19, 2008)

pippin said:


> My job as a TV repairer made me very much an expert at tackling switched-mode power supply faults.
> 
> However, without a circuit diagram it can be very, very difficult to do, especially if any of the resistors have literally burned out obscuring their value markings.
> 
> ...


I was also in the TV business but sent mine off to Schaudt as the components were blackened and unidentifyable, however as Schaudt replace the whole unit it is always worth a try if you are good with switch mode power suppies.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

inkey-2008 said:


> Or just get a decent battery charger that will do the the engine and habition and wire that in.
> 
> Andy


I'm thinking about going with this option, any advice. I imagine that I can connect the charger to a 230 volt outlet and plug the 12v output into a 12v outlet, might this work?


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Just wondering if anyone has any more thoughts or advice on substituting the elektorbloc charging for a standard battery charger.


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## Jezport (Jun 19, 2008)

jhelm said:


> Just wondering if anyone has any more thoughts or advice on substituting the elektorbloc charging for a standard battery charger.


I did think about it but with the electroblock charging both batteries and requiring 12v into it I did not bother I just got it repaired and fitted one of their anti surge protectors.


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

Jezport said:


> jhelm said:
> 
> 
> > Just wondering if anyone has any more thoughts or advice on substituting the elektorbloc charging for a standard battery charger.
> ...


I suppose the repair is the smarter way to go, but with shipping and repair that's around 200 euro compared to a simple charger for say 50 and no loss of of the motor home.

How and where did you hook up the surger protector. Seems like one could just use a simple one like we use for the computers.


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## Jezport (Jun 19, 2008)

jhelm said:


> Jezport said:
> 
> 
> > jhelm said:
> ...


You take the mains power lead out of the EBL and move it to the surge protector then back to the EBL.

I went for the propper Schaudt one as I had the unit in for repair the price was cheaper, also Schaudt always ask if you are using their protector and I felt they would only honour warranty repairs if their unit was fitted.


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## pippin (Nov 15, 2007)

I have just had a look inside the Schaudt EBL99.

The SMPSU charger section is a very, very complex bit of kit.

Not a hope of repairing one without the full circuit diagram.

Bang go my entrepreneurial hopes of repairing them as a sideline!


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## jhelm (Feb 9, 2008)

At least as a temporary measure that may become permanent I bought a simple battery charger, hooked it up to two pins on the elektroblock that are for an auxillary charger. I unplugged the 230 v line and to the elektroblock and plugged the charger into it using a piece from an old computer power supply and also installed a switch. So it seems to work fine and when the battery is charged up I can just switch it off. The charger sits neatly in place on top of the elektroblock under the passenger seat. 

Now if I could just find a way to charge the engine battery. I had hoped that by connecting through the elektroblock that it would also get a charge but that's not happening. Any ideas?


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