# Levelling a motorhome on ramps/blocks



## chopper (May 22, 2005)

HI

have i read somewhere or am i dreaming this that it is advisable not to use levelling devices under the rear wheels, something to do with them being rigid!!

ie only run your front wheels up blocks, which isnt always easy when the best view is the other way or it means siting your van door to door with the van next to you, not good if there isnt much space and they have children(!)

keith

who as usual is in a confused state!


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## sallytrafic (Jan 17, 2006)

Never heard that one before that said it usually is my fronts but for the last 4 days I have had one on my right rear corner.


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## Techno100 (May 8, 2010)

why would being rigid make any difference? I guess you mean cos it's a beam axle?
It makes no more difference than parking your van on uneven ground. ramps are to compensate and get you level


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## UncleNorm (May 1, 2005)

Hi Keith. You're dreaming mate!!

I either drive forward on to chocks at the front. I can't reverse on to them at the front because of my mud flaps.

Or I drive or reverse on to chocks at the back. I do prefer to reverse on, as I then have some momentum when coming off, especially on wet grass.

I do prefer not to use chocks as it raises the entry step of our low chassis and we are happy with a slight slope either way anyhow.

The only issue I've come across involved a chock cracking because it had been used on gravel. Fiamma claimed they should not be used directly on gravel!! Oh sugar!! :roll:


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## Westkirby01 (Jan 25, 2009)

Tale - wives - old ???


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## DJMotorhomer (Apr 15, 2010)

I learnt a lesson recently when levelling on grass.

Dont level chocks on 1 front 1 back on the same side.

My Peugeot Boxer is front wheel drive so while the front wheel had traction on the chock my right front was on the grass...no traction....result rt wheel stuck in mud !!! :twisted: :lol:


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## Chascass (May 10, 2007)

Are you not referring to advice that twin axle vans should not be levelled using only one set of rear wheels.

Charlie


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## spykal (May 9, 2005)

DJBullman said:


> I learnt a lesson recently when levelling on grass. Dont level chocks on 1 front 1 back on the same side. My Peugeot Boxer is front wheel drive so while the front wheel had traction on the chock my right front was on the grass...no traction....result rt wheel stuck in mud !!! :twisted: :lol:


Yep the diff let the wheel on the grass spin while providing no power to the wheel on the chock but that will not happen to me as I don't use bought chocks that have flat or indented sections that the wheel rests on ... I prefer my home made wooden ones resting on wood blocks adjusted to the height that I need. It does mean that I have to leave the van in gear and apply the handbrake to stay on the ramps and I often put a block as a chock behind the other wheels... some say this puts a strain on the brakes or gearbox but really it is no different to parking on a hill

Then when setting up I always try to reverse onto these ramps as that allows me to roll off when I am ready to move away.... and if the ground is soft or has become soft while parked up I don't stop until I reach better ground... if it is really soft I put down grip tracks to drive off over.

Mike


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## WingPete (Jan 29, 2006)

*Front or back*

I have been used to driving front wheels up onto chocks, but now rethinking.
Last year, during a particuarly wet day, arrived in pouring rain on grass site and needed front chocks.
Drove on them as usual, but when applying brakes, tyre lost grip and slipped off the chocks, causing them to rise up and wedge behind wheels and tapered ends firmly wedged into wheel arches.
What a palaver getting them out. Spade would not budge them.
Ended up with borrowed trolley jack to lift body clear enough to force chocks clear. 
Bearing in mind the bodywork now was obstructing the jacking point !
Now trying to reverse onto chocks, as sliding off in similar situation will only allow movement up into front of wheel arch, and access to jacking point, if needed, is not obstructed by bodywork.


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## blondy (Aug 23, 2007)

Can some of you with the mud and wet send some down to us in norfolk, we have concrete instead of soil. :lol:


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## suedew (May 10, 2005)

DJBullman said:


> I learnt a lesson recently when levelling on grass.
> 
> Dont level chocks on 1 front 1 back on the same side.
> 
> My Peugeot Boxer is front wheel drive so while the front wheel had traction on the chock my right front was on the grass...no traction....result rt wheel stuck in mud !!! :twisted: :lol:


Works ok on gravel though  except I call them ramps! chocks are what I call those things I put in at the back/front of the other wheels. Great so long as you remember to remove them 

Prefer to reverse onto the ramps as well, though HWMNBO usually drives on. :roll:

Sue


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## chopper (May 22, 2005)

*many thanks*

Hi

many thanks to you all for taking the time to respond and the information supplied,

keith


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## mikeT (May 1, 2005)

chopper said:


> HI
> 
> have i read somewhere or am i dreaming this that it is advisable not to use levelling devices under the rear wheels, something to do with them being rigid!!
> 
> ie only run your front wheels up blocks, which isnt always easy when the best view is the other way or it means siting your van door to door with the van next to you, not good if there isnt much space and they have children(!)


Re

Not sure about your van but mine has suspension on each wheel so it cant be ridged can it ? 
I thought the idea of using blocks was to get a motor-home level not having to turn it around just to level the front up.


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