# Electrolux (Dometic) C40/110 RM4400/01 gas problems



## BillCreer (Jan 23, 2010)

I have raised a new thread on the subject of poor performance with gas as I think most other threads, I have seen, seem to have been inconclusive and also it might save someone the bother of fitting "fans".
I seem to have fixed my problem by doing the following:-
Turn off the gas and unplug any mains supply.
Remove lower vent grill and mounting frame.
Remove two part metal box that surrounds the burner. It's held in place by two grub screws.
You can just pull the plastic drain bath off the pipe to give a bit more room.
Remove the grub screw that holds the burner to the vertical chimney.
The burner will drop and allow you to remove the grub screw which holds the thermocouple and spark igniter in place.
To gain access to the "small jet", which is situated at the end of the thin gas pipe where it connects to the square body, requires a 12mm spanner to hold the square body of the "burner" and a 11mm spanner to remove the gas pipe bolt.
Once the burner body is free it can be removed and it contains the "small jet" in the thin gas pipe end of the body and a large "burner jet" at the other end.
The small "jet" seems to be the main problem as it fills with rust particles which come from the gas pipe, collect and get trapped. A tap on something hard was sufficient to clear mine and confirmed by inserting a dogs whisker through it.
I was surprised by the amount of rust particles (like small grains of dry sand) that obviously came from the gas pipe and they would explain the intermittent nature of the cooling failure as, although they never fully block the "small jet", they would move around with braking and or parking on a slope. Once cleaned the flame hight doubled, the aluminium fins are coated with ice and the freeze compartment is frozen solid.

The first picture shows the burner unit removed from the gas pipe and chimney and the second shows the end of the burner unit that contains the small jet where the rust collects and blocks that jet.

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/78-subscribers-lounge/154873-how-difficult-do-job-properly.html

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/49-tech-mech-chat/178786-dometic-fridge-freezer-gas-problem.html


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Although the post you link to came out well Bill, a previous attempt on another van didn't, the gas burner was so tight in the square holder part it actually broke, if doing it again I'd put a Plus gas or equivalent on it for a few days prior to tackling it.

I say Plusgas as it does seem to get deeper in than say WD40 which didn't help at all, and of course must be completely removed before reassembly, I'd burn it off with a blow torch.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...-and-greases/penetrating-fluids/?549774741&0&


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, (and has never been sold as such) it's just a lubricant so totally and utterly useless at freeing seized parts. 

Andy


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

Are you sure about that Andy, I was informed that it was solely a Water Dispersant ( No.40 trial.) by a respected association that I worked for back in the 1970's.

cabby


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## BillCreer (Jan 23, 2010)

Mrplodd said:


> WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, (and has never been sold as such) it's just a lubricant so totally and utterly useless at freeing seized parts.
> 
> Andy


Isn't penetrating oil just another name for a thin lubricant? I've often and successfully used WD40 as a thin lubricant / penetrating oil.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

WD40 seem to think it's a penetrating oil Andy, but I don't it as such as it never seems to work, fine as a lube oil to get thing moving better, and it displaces rust in hinges etc, but not long term.

http://wd40.com/products


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