# Draughts around fridge



## 90473 (May 1, 2005)

I have noticed a strong draught from around my fridge and looking under the worktop edge, there is no deflector or any sort of insulation. There is a clear view to the outside world through the upper vent plate on the side of our van and I have read other posts on the subject relating to these accessories - poor cooling in warmer climates, etc.

Has anyone any d.i.y fixes to prevent the draughts :?: 

Ken


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## peejay (May 10, 2005)

First thing to sort out is getting a deflector fitted as its essential for correct fridge operation and channeling of spent heat.

We had a draught from a gap round the edges on ours, we sealed the gap (nearly 1/4 inch in places) with clear silicone sealant, seems to have worked ok.

Incidently, this seems to be one area where manufacturers at times seem incapable of carrying out what is, a relatively simple task..fitting a fridge properly! It should also be picked up by the dealer on the pdi, but both are obviously too busy crediting their accounts with your hard earned cash to worry about it!

pete


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## 90473 (May 1, 2005)

Thnx pete, I had a look at the Dometic site but the only accessories I could see were the actual vent kits - no mention of deflectors. With my limited scientific knowledge I am presuming that these work on the principle that hot air rises, therefore cold in at the bottom and *hopefully* the hot air goes out through the top vent.

I have read that it is this inability to effectively circulate the air that causes cooling(lack of) problems.

I feel a spot of metal fabrication coming on, now where did I leave that sheet aluminium.

Ken


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## Anonymous (Nov 10, 2000)

Hi Ken
in two previous vans I have owned the fridges were poorly fitted and suffered the same problems as you. Fitting a heat deflector at the top vent is pretty straight forward and improves the efficiency of the fridge no end. However, I still suffered from poor cooling when was in Spain due to the high ambient temperatures. 
To overcome this problem I fitted a small 230 volt extractor fan that I sourced from an old power supply. I mounted this just behind the top vent. The difference was quite amazing not only helping the fridge ventilation but removing the heat from the work surface which used to get quite warm and add heat to an already warm van. 
I used a 230 volt fan in preference to a 12 volt DC fan which would be another load on the battery. 

Hope this is of some help 

Jim


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## dodger148 (May 9, 2005)

Funny this subject came up, yesterday I was looking at the Dometic Fan for this purpose whilst browsing in a shop and the size of the fan as Jim says, is similar to that in PC Power Supply. There are plenty of these scap cases around a lot cheaper than the 24 pounds wanted for the Dometic unit.


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## Anonymous (Nov 10, 2000)

We had the same trouble in strong winds around our fridge. The gaps were tiny (all less than 2mm) but still enough to let the air in. Silicon sorted the problem neatly.


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## Boff (May 10, 2005)

We also had these gaps around the fridge. We first observed it last summer when we had strong cold winds in Norway. As our van is still under warranty I had it done by a dealer. He just used ordinary silicone and it is fine now.

There is also no deflector in our van. Up to now we are satisfied with the efficiency of the fridge, but maybe this is because we have not yet been to real hot areas in summer. Maybe I will make one by myself. 

Quite some German motorhomers I know, especially those who prefer Mediterranean countries in Summer, have built in simple PC fans behind the upper vent plate. They all report significant increases in efficiency. There are also pre-fabricated fan sets available in some camping accessory stores, but these consist just of two PC fans mounted in a frame and a switch.

Best Regards,
Gerhard


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## 90473 (May 1, 2005)

Many thnx to all for helpful advice. I've been out to the van, had another look and should be a straightforward :roll: Saturday job. Power supply nearby as well for the excellent fan idea.

Ken


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## 89992 (May 1, 2005)

electrolux used to make a kit called ik1 that was three piece's of alluminium with foam inserts these kits should have been fitted when the vans were made. i purchased a kit once but it didn't make any differance, the last van i applied clear silicon round the top and down the sides and underneath used expanding foam this cured it. :lol:


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## 90473 (May 1, 2005)

Well, here goes. If the site is still going as strong by late August I'll report back on the (in)efficiency of what I am about to do. Pulled the fridge out of it's space and stood back in amazement at the jumble of wires. Spent an hour tidying these up into a logical sequence, really couldn't believe my eyes (custom built by reputable company). Bought myself a piece of light guage (2mm) aluminium, 500x250 and this will be suitably formed to sit up against the cross batten supporting my kitchen work top. It should then angle downwards over the rear of the fridge thereby directing warm air towards the upper vent unit. Sounds fairly good so far even if I say so myself.

Now then, this is where I need a little more advice. I have a couple of old pc cases complete with working fans. Not being very good with electricity I tend to leave this to an expert. Is it straightforward to remove the fan (making a holder won't be a problem) and wire directly into the 230v fridge supply, or a nearby 3 pin socket. This would mean that the fan worked continuously, so would it be advisable to make it switched. My main holidays are spent in S. France on sites with hook-up but I thought the option of being able to switch the fan on/off might be safer.

I would really appreciate anyone guiding me through the wiring part or if you think I shouldn't do this part, I will be equally grateful for advice.

Ken


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## Anonymous (Nov 10, 2000)

On my setup I wired the fan(s) onto the 230v fridge supply via a rocker switch which I mounted on the front by the fridge (although any convenient place within easy reach would be good.)
The reason I put a switch was so I could turn them off during winter when they wouldn't be needed. 
From a safety prospective it's always a good idea to have some way of isolating in case of a problem. 
Check before installing that the fans are indeed 230/240 volt ac. 

Hope this is of help, if you have any more questions you can message me ...


Jim


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