# Auvergne region France



## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Righty ho! Its game on for a trip next week. Been up in the air for months due to a variety of reasons but it looks like we are finally off!

We have opted to head down to the Pyrenees but instead of heading straight down I am trying to find interesting places we havent been before. Last year we did Jura and loved it and the Auvergne region looks similar. 

From there we will head down to Toulouse area and into the Haute Pyrenees for a few high points! 

I also wondered about going around the eastern side of Paris rather than the usual none toll road round Rouen and towards Tours but I cannot find anything much of Interest on that route until you get to Clermont Ferrand area and Auvergne. 

Any tips of must see places, good aires and wild spots as well as mountains, lakes and rivers?

Cheers
BD


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## veevee (Nov 6, 2011)

Nobody visits here Barry, it's almost perfect!


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## salomon (Apr 20, 2011)

But they did have a tornado the other day 8O


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## 91502 (May 1, 2005)

veevee said:


> Nobody visits here Barry, it's almost perfect!


It was, get ready for a loon on a scooter and awful singing. 
Lock up your wife and your beer.


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## veevee (Nov 6, 2011)

Scooter good, awful singing used to that, the wife, well... but have just bought a new bottle for this year!


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## Landyman (Apr 3, 2010)

When you get to the Pyrenees try this spot. Just the sort of place you seem to like, wild camping, by a lake, super for the boat but a tad chilly for swimming and wonderful scenery.

http://motorhomemoments.wordpress.com/2014/05/31/france-2014-finding-the-sun/lac-destang/

Richard.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Thanks for all these useful replies (well landymans anyway! )

Lac D'stang looks up our alley. Will definitely look that one up.

So nobody goes there huh? Even better. I'm linking of going down towards limousin and turning east towards Clermont Ferrand. Seems to be a few little lakes and aires dotted around across 3 parks.

Supposed to be some big hills am volcanos in Auvergne apparently.

Look out Auvergne then!


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## fatbuddha (Aug 7, 2006)

be interested to get your view on Auvergne - it's one of the very few parts of France we have never got around to exploring


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## veevee (Nov 6, 2011)

I can answer a few of your questions Barry, but a few questions from me first.

What day are you travelling?

Do you do motorways?

Do you like pay camp sites?

How far would you usually travel in a day?

What sort of lakes do you like?

Do you want to see the bridge at Millau?

Do you know you are in THE major holiday period for all of Continental Europe?

Is it true you can sing?


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## Boff (May 10, 2005)

barryd said:


> I also wondered about going around the eastern side of Paris rather than the usual none toll road round Rouen and towards Tours but I cannot find anything much of Interest on that route until you get to Clermont Ferrand area and Auvergne.


You have not seen that label "Bourgogne" on the map? :wink: Many things to see and do there, and there are even places where you can let your dinghy out. Then excellent wines, even more excellent food. Bustling towns like Auxerre and picturesque little gems like Flavigny-sur-Ozerain.

But perhaps you better stay on the beaten track, otherwise you might never reach Auvergne, because you do not want to go further down south. :wink:

Best Regards,
Gerhard


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. I will address them one at a time.

*Fatturdha* (see what I did there?) thats one reason we are going. I think it's the only area we have not been to so will let you know.

*Veevee*

*What day are you travelling? * next Wednesday but it will take us a couple of days to get there if not longer.

*Do you do motorways? * Yes if they are part of a long journey and only if they are free or essential if toll road.

*Do you like pay camp sites? * Never! Well maybe if they are cheap and empty.

*How far would you usually travel in a day? * not far if I can help it. Several hundred yards is an effort. 

*What sort of lakes do you like? * All sorts but prefer ones in hilly scenic areas rather than flat and big enough to get the dinghy out and have a swim or maybe go sailing if there is sail boat hire.

*Do you want to see the bridge at Millau? * seen it loads of times. That area is very well known to us.

*Do you know you are in THE major holiday period for all of Continental Europe? * Yeah that doesn't bother me. We are nearly always away in France late July and August. It's the best place to be.

*Is it true you can sing? * Yep! Like an Angel (Hells Angel) 

*Boff*

Yes we have been to Bourgogne / Burgundy. Well some of it. Auxerre and around there as well as Lake Setton and If Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is that place where they filmed Chocolat then yes we went there last year as well although sadly the shop and Chocolat woman were no longer there. 

I'm just trying to think of a few different places en route to the Pyrenees really. As I said we have done most of France but there is often the odd region or even a few departments or National parks that you have skirted around and Auvergne and part of Limousin is one of them.


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## Sandy_Saunders (Nov 17, 2008)

We stopped in the Auvergne on our way back from the Pyrenees this year. There is an aire and an ACSI campsite at Chambon sur Lac, we used the latter as it was clothes washing time. :? 

The place has some good walking, round the lake if you like sedate, or in the hills if you like something more challenging. Ditto cycling.

Afterwards we drove round a scenic route to Puy de Dôme which has an aire. This is the largest of the hundred plus extinct volcanoes which scatter the region. You can walk up to the top or take the new and quite smart train. We used the train because I'm not pushing my wife in a wheelchair up a 1400 metre mountain. 8O 

As suggested above, Burgundy is very good and thoroughly recommended, but not mountainous if that's what you are looking for. 

If you want to skirt round the eastern side of Paris, there are decent, but not free, aires at Provins and Coucy le Chateau-Aufrique which help you cut down the distance you have to drive. Coucy is quite small and popular, so best not to arrive after about 1500.

Sandy


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## homenaway (Jul 27, 2005)

Hi Barry,

We love the Auvergne and have found some great places. Can be busy on the mountain passes around Puy Mary but further south towards the Cantal region was quieter when we visited last year.

Here's a couple of links to our site

Around the Auvergne

Herault to Cantal

We found some interesting places such as the Cirque de Navacelles and Sainte Guillaume le Desert (which isn't motorhome friendly for parking).

OK the're hills not mountains compared to the Alps.

Steve


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## Cazzie (Feb 13, 2009)

Hi Barry
If you are travelling through the Limousine region we can recommend the aire at Uzerche.
Right beside the river at the old disused railway station and lovely views of the old hill town opposite. 
Free electric and free parking but don't arrive Friday night as there is a market there on Saturdays.
Sorry don't know too much about the Auvergne region.

Cazzie


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Great stuff! Thanks!

Really appreciated.


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## veevee (Nov 6, 2011)

The route into the Auvergne is through 03000 Moulins in the main, the old N7 which is being replaced bit by bit by the A77.

As you are travelling mid week the west or east option are ok, the east is faster by a fair bit and far less complicated if you use motorways.

If you take the east and it's not morning 05:30 - 09:30 or afternoon 15:00 - 19:00 rush hours take the middle ring route via in the main the A86. If it's in or near rush hour take the outer ring made up of mostly A104/N104.If it's the middle of the night take the Paris central BP (Bvd Peripherique). We use all 3 depending on which day and time of day.
If using the BP and there is an amount of traffic, bikers use the outside of the 2nd lane and the inside of the 3rd lane, and there's a lot of them too.

From Paris it's a short hop down the A6 to the A77, which is part toll. From the A6/A77 junction to Cosne it's 4.35 or 4.85 € for a class 2 motorhome, very cheap for one of the best and less travelled autoroutes in France.

The west side you will know the route, but if on rare occasions we travel the west side we aim for Le Mans and travel via the parallel (to the autoroute) D and N roads from Le Mans - Tours - Loches - Chateauroux - La Chatre - Montlucon (at that point we are nearly at our French home) - Clermont and the Puy just to the south of you. 
We use this route as it's not outstanding or beautiful, just reminds us of how France was 30 years ago and it's so undemanding. There are free emptying points and free parking areas often enough not to get caught out, very easy motorhome living along that route.

As to a rivers. The Cher is missed by most people. It's very very pretty between Saint Amand Montrond and it's confluence with the Loire, super for a gentle paddle.

The Allier was the fiercest river in France before it was dammed, this passes through Moulins town with a paying Aire beside the river directly opposite the town centre. Supermarche and all town centre shops within 500m max. The Aire also has a canoe / kayak centre with rentals available, 12 or 20 km return to base in boat of your choice. I think 22 € for a day. We are doing this in about 10 days time so can report if you are interested.

There are faster and smaller rivers the further south you go, canoe all over here with lots and lots of lakes big and small.

Did you know that the A75 from Clermont south almost to the coast is free except for Millau. Beautiful motorway if you haven't used it yet.

The Volcano national park is very under visited, others have described it here already. Further south there are the high plains which are quite high too with ski resorts, they have a lonely and starkly beautiful feel to them.

You will find your own places but Puy de Dome (for volcano views), Puy Mary, Mont Dore in particular, the areas in and around Mauriac and Aurillac are worth a couple of days each.

Then there is the upper reaches of the Loire...

We are based between Montlucon and Moulins, you are welcome to stay over night to serenade us, we have plenty of space, a pretty view with 3 or 4 lakes nearby and a single bottle of bier. But if you do want to drop by please call ahead to check we are at home.

Last. There is a Pan European expressway being built which will connect St Nazaire to Geneva to start with. It's both single and dual carriageway at the moment and it's free. It's a good road to use for getting from the west to the east or visa versa in central France. The number is the E62.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

> *veevee wrote: *The route into the Auvergne is through 03000 Moulins in the main, the old N7 which is being replaced bit by bit by the A77.
> 
> As you are travelling mid week the west or east option are ok, the east is faster by a fair bit and far less complicated if you use motorways.
> 
> ...


Thanks Veevee (and everyone) for going to all this effort. Its much appreciated and thanks for your very kind offer.

Yes. Let me know how you get on with the Kayak trip. We love Kayaking but I have been looking for a trip on some faster white water since we did the Ardeche a couple of years ago. It had a enough small rapids to make it exciting. That was August as well and its started off quiet but ended up a complete mash up with hundreds of French holiday makers out in Kayaks. It was hilarious but you had to be there really. Would love to have a go at something more challenging.

Looks like I have some good info to start putting a proper plan together to what looks like an interesting but undervisited location.

Yes I have done some of the A75 but always dip out before the Millau bridge as we head off down to St Rome de Tarn and sometimes Lake Parloupe. Actually might add them to the list as well.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

> *Landyman wrote: *When you get to the Pyrenees try this spot. Just the sort of place you seem to like, wild camping, by a lake, super for the boat but a tad chilly for swimming and wonderful scenery.
> 
> http://motorhomemoments.wordpress.com/2014/05/31/france-2014-finding-the-sun/lac-destang/
> 
> Richard.


Hi Landyman.

Just been checking out your wild spot on Lac D'estaing. It looks a superb place but I am surprised its not listed on CC Infos.

There is just a site listing for the very end of the lake. I notice there are also vans parked up the other end as well here. http://goo.gl/maps/0vpe5

Presume they are wilding and not paying for camping.

Looks an amazing place, I just cannot believe its not listed anywhere.

There looks to be a similar lake in the next valley here. http://goo.gl/maps/5oFdv

Will definitely go for a swim even if it is freezing!


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## Landyman (Apr 3, 2010)

SHUSHHHHH!

Don't tell everyone. 

There is a small campsite at the far end of the lake but it looked a bit scruffy when we walked past. There is also a cafe/bar/visitor centre in the middle of the large parking area. There is plenty of parking around there and some vans stayed there overnight. We arrived there on a holiday weekend and it was very popular which is why we parked well away from the main parking area. Almost everyone went home by mid evening and that left just us and the cattle to enjoy the peace and quiet.
We intended to stay a bit longer but after our second night we woke to find we were in thick cloud which showed no sign of lifting by late morning so we retreated back down the mountain.

BTW, that photo I linked to was the view from our door, there are a few more in the blog.

For those that prefer to stay on a camp site there is a cracking one in Estaing village, Camping Natura.


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## veevee (Nov 6, 2011)

Quick update:

No canoe rental on the Allier at Moulins today, canoe club has declared it too dangerous due to rains over the last few weeks.

Saw the river myself 2 days ago, fastest I have seen it in 8 years but not white water as such.


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## Carl_n_Flo (May 10, 2005)

Hi Barry, If you are heading south from Clermont on the m'way, nip off into the l'Aubrac at the St. Flour turning......ski resorts in the winter, excellent scenery in the summer. Then down to Rodez and on to Albi (aire by the cathedral).

Just a few pointers - let me know what you are considering and I will get Flo to jot down some ideas........its her 'home' area!!!

Carl


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Howdy folks and thanks for the replies.

We are currently still in Limousin haute correze not far from Auvergne. Had some cracking wilding and some sailing (its been a while) around lac de vassiviere Which is lovely and Motorhome heaven. A couple of aires and free service point in the main village and loads of parking around the lake with no restrictions and it seems we Are actively encouraged as its not mega busy even in peak season.

Now at the lake near maymac heading east into Auvergne. The weather is ok but not hot. 20-24c which is a little
Disappointing and I suspect as we get higher in Auvergne it may get cooler in which case we will simply head south.

Carl. Much appreciated. We will be heading towards auday / clermont forrand and then south west.

Sorry for spelling etc. rubbish iPhone 

Cheers all!


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