# The great Italian Chicken Run!



## barryd

We have been in the top bit of North Eastern Italy since last week now. Mainly in the Dolomites region. What a superb place. Some spectacular mountains and passes and roads to fly around on the bike that is a bikers dream.

However. I don't know if it's us being used to always having handy supermarkets or any kind of market for that matter but we have been on a cooked chicken hunt since we got here and not a sausage (err. Well Chicken actually).

All over Europe we have never had a problem finding a hot chicken stall either by the roadside, outside a supermarket or even inside one!
We can't even find a supermarket here. Nothing. What do they eat in the Dolomites?

Anyway today we turfed up at what can only be described as the perfect Sosta in the southern part of the Dolomites at a little place called Barcis, right on a lake, half empty (in high season!), Massive numbered serviced pitches, EHU the lot for less than a tenner a night and free wifi using the antenna!

What more can you ask for? Well a chicken would be nice.

It's been 29 degrees here and sunny so a ten mile scooter journey to the nearest town Maniago was called for. Nobody told me 5 of the miles are through tunnels with one being over three miles long and flipping freezing! Almost gassed by the end of it we burst into what can only be described as tropical heat and we were out of the Alps! Is flat and very hot.

Eventually we find the one and only supermarket in the quite large town and they have chickens cooking! Wahay!

They will be 20 minutes says young attractive Italian Chicken girl. Off we go for a look round and on our return the queue at the hot chicken counter is huge. I say queue loosely as this is Italy and its more of a mosh pit. Bugger. They only seem to have cooked six of them. These could be the only six cooked chickens in Italy for all we know and now we are going to miss out as everyone wants one!

It's our lucky day! Attractive chicken girl remembers me (Well she would wouldn't she!) and promptly insists that we get our pick of the chickens much to the annoyance of the assembled throng, some of whom have travelled as far as Rome and beyond!

Anyway, a short blast back through the tunnels and several climates sees us back for a chicken feast!

Lovely.

If you're up this way, give the Sosta at Barcis a go. You won't be disappointed. Will add it to the database when I can be bothered!

Barcis out on the lake and Barcis village


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## MrsW

Chickalicious! Have a good feast tonight!


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## barryd

Cheers Mrs W

Considering they appeared to be the only hot cooked chickens in north eastern Italy they were remarkably cheap at just over three quid each and quit big!

Mind you we have driven about 200 mile in the van and about 50 on the bike and over several mountain passes to find them and with diesel being three hundred quid a gallon in Italy it would have been cheaper to have them fed exed form morrisons in the uk. Still it's the thrill of the hunt that counts!


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## AndyCap

*Bella Italia!*

Hi Barry,

Follow your cooked chicken crusades with interest and admiration.

The missus and I just had a stunning 12 days by Lake Bolsena (no chickens involved, cooked or uncooked, I'm afraid) and m/h now in storage in Rome while I nip back and earn a few more birra vouchers. Heading back out Sept to continue our adventures up through Tuscany and on to Lakes. Would love to cut across to Venice then up past where you are on way to Fussen and Romantic Road but have to be back for pesky MOT in October so see how time goes. Past experience tells me it'll need to wait for another trip.

Thanks for the post and pictures and keep up the good work.

Regards,
Andy.


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## barryd

Thanks Andy.

Check out our blog if your heading up fussen way. A bit further east in Austria is the Austrian lakes and our favourite was Halstatt. Spent a week there wild camping. If your into all that pm me and I'll give you all the gen. I Will be adding it all to the database in due course.

I just don't get Italy though. Yesterday we were on a sosta at Sappanda higher up in the mountains and it was rubbish compared to here yet it was packed. Here it's stunning and a superb sosta and theres hardly anyone here.

Bit of the beaten track I suppose.


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## brandywine

When you were in Slovenia, can you tell how price of diesel compared with, say Austria?

Regards


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## DTPCHEMICALS

Chicken gave me food poisoning this week, unfortunatley a gave some to each of our six dogs.
Carpets have been cleaned twice since Sunday.

And it was a chicken from Poland.

Dave p


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## aldra

Barry, Barry

Can you not just cook one yourself??

what am I going to do with you?

On second thoughts don't answer that

Aldra :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## simandme

Chicken girl obviously thought you needed fattening up - that's why she gave you first pick of the chickens! :lol:


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## billmac

You will not find a KFC in Italy either. I don't know why.


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## babyrhino

When we did our "grand tour"in 2007 one of the things we noticed was the variation in prices of cooked chickens - I even have a series of photos of pricing boards in various places to illustrate the differences - seem to remember that the low was very low and the high was very high!

What we did find, and it is certainly borne out by current experience in France, is that the UK seems to lead the world in cooked chicken price so at least we have something right!

I'm not sure whether I can bring them in to France now because of the 100ml fluid regulations - presumably cold would be OK but hot may prove to be a bit greasy and near the limit?

Brian


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## veevee

Barry, what gave you the idea to visit Barcis?


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## jhelm

Barry,
Always interesting to read the generalizations about Italians, but I won't get into that. As to chickens though, as far as I've seen most of the big supermarkets sell roasted chickens. There are several here in Belluno. The chicken girl treated you correctly, as happens very often in Italy, she knew you had waited and come back for your chicken so in essence you were first in line. Most of the deli counters use the take a number system to avoid confusion, I am surprised they didn't have that where you bought this one. Otherwise Italians in the North (which is were most of my experience comes from) at least are pretty good at knowing who came first, but they will rarely speak up if someone crowds in front of them. They tend to just give each other a look of disgust. Of course one does need to be a bit aggressive and assert one's position in the line. If you find yourself in the midst of a bunch of people waiting the best thing to do is ask who is last in line "che è l'ultima" someone will let you know.

About Barcis, we have not been there and have been thinking about a place to go for a couple of days and your comment that it was nearly empty got my interest. Is there a beach, are you allowed to swim in the lake. And what road did you use to arrive there. We imagine taking the road from Langarone but it looks pretty narrow and full of curves.

By the way for anyone touring the Dolomites, Belluno is at the eastern edge. There is a nice sosta here which is at one end of a large parking lot. The area for campers backs up to a nice little park. The center of town is accessed by an escalator and the community pool is about 100m away. It is also right across the street from the Piave river. There are dumping and water facilities but no power - actually the one we always use when returning home.


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## barryd

Thanks for all the replies. Ill answer them as best I can. 



brandywine said:


> When you were in Slovenia, can you tell how price of diesel compared with, say Austria?
> 
> Regards


About the same. Cheapest we saw in Austria was €1.29 but typically about €1.36 so just over a quid! pretty much the same in Slovenia but hardly any chickens or supermarkets there an all!

Sadly in Italy fuel is very expensive. Its about €1.70 a litre here but further up the mountains it was as much as €1.80 and petrol for the bike was more! As a consequence this might limit how far we go after Venice as Hank drinks diesel like its gone out of fashion!



aldra said:


> Barry, Barry
> 
> Can you not just cook one yourself??
> 
> what am I going to do with you?
> 
> On second thoughts don't answer that
> 
> Aldra :lol: :lol: :lol:


Ah. Im glad you asked this question. One Christmas we cooked a Turkey in the van and it took four hours and used all the gas! The oven is ok for chips or pizzas but its very badly sealed so big birds take hours and by the time your finished the vans a sauna!



simandme said:


> Chicken girl obviously thought you needed fattening up - that's why she gave you first pick of the chickens! :lol:


No. She clearly fancied me and who would blame her! :lol:



babyrhino said:


> When we did our "grand tour"in 2007 one of the things we noticed was the variation in prices of cooked chickens - I even have a series of photos of pricing boards in various places to illustrate the differences - seem to remember that the low was very low and the high was very high!
> 
> What we did find, and it is certainly borne out by current experience in France, is that the UK seems to lead the world in cooked chicken price so at least we have something right!
> 
> I'm not sure whether I can bring them in to France now because of the 100ml fluid regulations - presumably cold would be OK but hot may prove to be a bit greasy and near the limit?
> 
> Brian


Yes there is a difference. Here are some observations

France. Typically at a supermarket anything from €4 to €8 but we did once get two for €4!

Germany, usually on vans outside of supermarkets or other places for about €6-7

Austria as above

Switzerland. Only ever got one from a van with a giant chicken on the roof. We almost mowed it down we were so excited! The chap running it was from London and used to work at the Dorchester! I think he got his prices from there as it was about thirteen quid but the tastiest chicken we have ever had.

Slovenia, only found one at a road side van, about the size of a pigeon and €6.50

Italy. Well so far you know our experience but by far the cheapest and biggest birds at €3.80.



veevee said:


> Barry, what gave you the idea to visit Barcis?


Well we entered the Dolomites after Slovenia and it just seemed a nice place to spend some time before heading to Venice. Using the offline version of campingcar infos and Autoroute I then just looked for likely spots where there were lakes or mountains for either walking or getting the dinghy out. Barcis is right by a small lake so perfect! The comments on www.campingcar-infos.com were very good. I do spend a lot of time researching Aires / sostas etc. The one up at Sauris was smashing and free EHU, services and even a shower!



jhelm said:


> Barry,
> Always interesting to read the generalizations about Italians, but I won't get into that. As to chickens though, as far as I've seen most of the big supermarkets sell roasted chickens. There are several here in Belluno. The chicken girl treated you correctly, as happens very often in Italy, she knew you had waited and come back for your chicken so in essence you were first in line. Most of the deli counters use the take a number system to avoid confusion, I am surprised they didn't have that where you bought this one. Otherwise Italians in the North (which is were most of my experience comes from) at least are pretty good at knowing who came first, but they will rarely speak up if someone crowds in front of them. They tend to just give each other a look of disgust. Of course one does need to be a bit aggressive and assert one's position in the line. If you find yourself in the midst of a bunch of people waiting the best thing to do is ask who is last in line "che è l'ultima" someone will let you know.
> 
> About Barcis, we have not been there and have been thinking about a place to go for a couple of days and your comment that it was nearly empty got my interest. Is there a beach, are you allowed to swim in the lake. And what road did you use to arrive there. We imagine taking the road from Langarone but it looks pretty narrow and full of curves.
> 
> By the way for anyone touring the Dolomites, Belluno is at the eastern edge. There is a nice sosta here which is at one end of a large parking lot. The area for campers backs up to a nice little park. The center of town is accessed by an escalator and the community pool is about 100m away. It is also right across the street from the Piave river. There are dumping and water facilities but no power - actually the one we always use when returning home.


Please dont be offended by my generalisation of the Italians. If you read our blog you will see we have a tongue in cheek stab at all the countries we visit but are constantly having a laugh at ourselves and the Brits! A Swiss guy emailed me about our observations of the Swiss from last years blog and said it was the funniest thing he had ever read and I didnt half take the mick out of them!

I love Italy and the Italians are great.

We almost went to Belluno. Maybe we should have had a look.

The road we went over was the SS251 from Castello Lavazzo on the SS51. The road is fine, only rises to 900 metres and easily big enough for a motorhome. Some of the other passes and tunnels further up the mountains were a bit hairy though but generally Ive been impressed with the roads.

You can be in the lake from the Sosta in seconds as its right next to it in parkland. There isnt really a beach though anywhere on the lake but plenty of places you can get in. We swam in it and rowed around it yesterday and others were swimming also. Its cold though!

Cheers
Barry


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## peejay

billmac said:


> You will not find a KFC in Italy either. I don't know why.


Probably because KFP or Kentucky Fried Pollo doesn't have the same ring to it.

I'll get me cappotto :roll:

Whats your opinion of Slovenia in general Barry?

Pete


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## jhelm

Barry, you were just 20 minutes or so from us. That's the road we would take going there so thanks. We have not been down that way. I'm a little touchy about comments about Italians probably because I'm not one, though I am a citizen, my Italian wife and in-laws are probably less so. But then maybe my goal is more along the lines of clearing up misconceptions. For all of us when we are in a foreign place it's hard to really now what is going on sometimes.

My worst roasted chicken buying experience lately was a few weeks ago in my hometown in the US. Chicken price on a big sign in the supermarket $5.99, on some of the packages was written 5.30, I assumed they were marked down so I picked up two of them. At the cashier she rang up $6.99. I said what, not 5.30, no she says that is the time they were cooked, oh but what about 5.99 no she says after going all the way back to the chicken counter that was just for the fried chicken. Two people in line behind me were bitching about the delay, the one was so tense he had to tell me he was glad to be buying a giant bottle of whiskey so he would be able to relax after such a trying experience. Made me happy to be returning to Italy. Feel free to generalize about Americans.


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## motormouth

Another blooming mountain, another blooming lake,
We've got lots of those here, for goodness sake.
We've got chickens too, both fresh and cooked
We've got cheese and beer, last time I looked.

There's all that you need in this wonderful land
But you keep buggering off, I don't understand.
There's more to life than rowing your boat,
I've made my point, I'll get my coat.
:wink:


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## HermanHymer

*Italy and food*

If you have ever known Italians well, or even watched Jamie's (not- what-he-expected) food expedition by campervan to Italy a few years ago, you'll know there is only one set of rules for Italian cooking. This is how Mama does it, and she does it according to the customs of the region, which are as cast in concrete as a Mafia defector's corpse. Only very recently has (American) first world fast food even got a toe hold in Italy and only with the young/on life's fast track.

I recently saw Jamie in an Italian school kitchen (TV show) giving the Mamas a well known English brand of turkey twizzler as is fed to the local monsters. Her reaction, complete with horrified face and a bunch of fingers focused skywards for added emphasis, was simple - "Porcherria, porcherria!!" which loosely means something like absolute rubbish, only stronger!

If you want a taste of home flavour/convenience, don't expect to find it in Italy, especially in the country! Rather find the local ristorante, the one the locals use, and eat like a king.

Buon Appetito a tutti!

Viv


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## jhelm

The kids around here love pizza with French fries on it. Who knew - complete corruption if you ask me.


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## eddied

Glad to see you're enjoying Italy barry. Plenty of nice free range reared spit roasted chicken down thisaway. Never had the pleasure of KFC so can't judge.
Anyway real reason for posting. May have mentioned this before, but just a reminder. First the good news - the proposed strike of fuel service stations 4 and 5 August has now been called off.
Also, if you look for AGIP fuel stations, many are offering until the end of September greatly reduced fuel prices between Saturday lunch time and 07:00 Monday morning. Diesel as low as 1.55 eurines.
Now the bad news - expect horrendous traffic Friday 03/08; Sunday afternoon 05/08; Friday and Saturday 10 and 11/08; and probably around 'ferragosto' 15/08.
Traffic reports nationwide on 103.3 FM RAI Isoradio; with bulletins in English during the morning and late afternoon.
buon viaggio,
eddied


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## barryd

Thanks for the replies

Its been another fun packed day. Im knackered. Lots of rowing, walking, swimming and an endless mountain pass on the bike.

The Italians on the sosta are friendly but Im sure they think we are bonkers always off doing stuff.

I cant be sure but Im pretty sure all of them have stayed by the vans all day. Even the kids!

The only person thats been in the lake is me and its been 30 degrees all day! Maybe its full of Pirhanas or something.

PEte. Slovenia was nice and the people really friendly and laid back but its not very motorhome friendly. A few aires one of which had strict rules on how long you could stay. 36 hours which is plain daft.

Campsites are not too expensive though. Around £20-£25 and pretty laid back but you know how I feel about sites!

Motormouth. If you think the UK has mountains then think again! Wait until you see the Julian Alps, Dolomites and the Tyrol.

Things have been bleak on the cheese front though. Germany, Austria and Slovenia were hopeless. Things are looking up in Italy though!

Eddied thanks for the heads up on traffic.

our plan after here is a stop between here and venice as Michelle wants to look around Pordenone and Sacile and then we will head for Jesolo or one of the Sostas near the Ferry for Venice.

PRobably madness in August but my theory is that most people visit Venice in Spring or Autumn.

Please tell me Im right!

Cheers
BD


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## aldra

Barry my handsome one,

You are two timing me with the chicken girl 8O 8O

Now I am upset

And I thought I was your only love

excluding Michelle ( who is gorgeous)

and Mavis ( who is lovely )

Following you to Italy in Sept

If Shadow is well enough to travel

Aldra


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## barryd

Oooh Aldra. So many women, so little time! 

Dont worry. I only have eyes for you!

Anyway. Whats up with Shadow? Hope hes ok.


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## eddied

You're right and wrong barry. Most foreign tourists visit Venice Spring and Autumn. Most Italian tourists visit Jesolo, Punta Sabbioni, and Venezia in August. But it's all a big place, and there's room for everybody. Enjoy it.
saluti,
eddied


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## barryd

Thanks Eddied.

I dont know if I have asked you this before but there is a Sosta in the database here and also listed in the Bord Atlas in Autoroute called Azienda Agricola Locanda "da Scarpa" (BA2012 S. 224 Karte 1D2)

The entry in here is 2006 (sorry cant provide link as on mobile MHF)

GPS is 45.44333, 12.44028

I have no idea if this still exists or what it is but Im wondering if it will be a smaller quieter options to some of the others.

Cant decide which end to be at for Venice and the beach (mainly Venice)

Cheers
BD


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## eddied

barryd said:


> Thanks Eddied.
> 
> I dont know if I have asked you this before but there is a Sosta in the database here and also listed in the Bord Atlas in Autoroute called Azienda Agricola Locanda "da Scarpa" (BA2012 S. 224 Karte 1D2)
> 
> The entry in here is 2006 (sorry cant provide link as on mobile MHF)
> 
> GPS is 45.44333, 12.44028
> 
> I have no idea if this still exists or what it is but Im wondering if it will be a smaller quieter options to some of the others.
> 
> Cant decide which end to be at for Venice and the beach (mainly Venice)
> 
> Cheers
> BD


  Don't know it personally, but it does still exist.
www.dascarpa.it
phone 041 966428.

They are only 800 metres from Punta Sabbioni ferries. Have phoned, and they have motorhome pitches available, but you need to call a couple of days in advance to check for availability.
Also near beaches.
saluti,
eddied


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## barryd

Cheers Eddied that's very kind.

Currently on the aire at Valvasone about 50 miles north of Jesolo. Holding off getting to Venice now as Michelle is Ill with Kidney stones. Seems to hit her every now and again.

On the plus side the aire is free by a lovely park in a medieval village. Free ehu and services and only us here!

On the down side we haven't got acclimatised yet and it's blooming hot. Sat out on the grass yesterday evening and afternoon and have been bitten all over!

There us no point doing Jesolo and Venice until Michelle is better so we will just hold up here for a while as long ad they don't mind!

I almost feel guilty though as they have clearly spent a lot if money on this aire and nobody is using it.

Will make sure i spend a few quid locally


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## aldra

Barry

Give Michelle my best wishes for a speedy recovery

Hope the weather cools a bit until she feels stronger

Note made of that site for our visit later in the year

Sandra


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## eddied

Sorry to hear Michelle is not well, and wish her a speedy recovery. I suppose you already know she must drink loads of water. Especially now, as the heat is going to increase over the next few days. By Monday 40+ C. expected where you are, as the 'Sahara Dragon' anticyclone kicks in.
Now 75 days since we had any measurable rain.
saluti,
eddied


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## barryd

Thanks chaps

She isn't very well but has drank lots and even managed a glass if sangria as the sun goes down tonight.

I've just planned an emergency Venice bailout back into the mountains which I can still see from here. Maybe a a few days seeing Belluno as recommended on this thread and a few other sostas back up in the hills ( recommendations welcome)

Looking at the map the choices are endless. Last time this happened it took a week to pass so
Hopefully we can find some quiet cooler places until
Michelle recovers enough to tackle
Jesolo and Venice.


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## barryd

I probably should start a new thread but as there are a couple of locals in this one hopefully you can help.

I'm now thinking to avoid the heat and hopefully mozzies we might carry on after Belluno as far as the little lakes around Trento, maybe the top if Garda and perhaps lake Iseo.

This takes us away from Venice but I'm wondering if you can get a train back to Venice from any of these places.

Does anyone know where you can get the train from and how much?

We can use the scooter to get to the station so it doesnt need to be right near where we are staying. I'm wondering if Trento will be an option?


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## eddied

Ciao barry, re trains/times I think Jhelm, who's up t'north where you are, can be more helpful/up to date than me. However, just been watching the news/weather forecasts. Whilst we are sweltering at 41C. down here, up near you there have been severe thunderstorms/cloudbursts. 2 fatalities up near Sterzing/Vipiteno, and the main Brenner railway line to Trento and the Veneto swept away; and likely to be closed for at least 2 weeks. Given that severe storm warnings are now out for the next 36 hours in the pre-Alps/Dolomite areas; I would be wanting to get nearer to the coast, rather than further into the mountains. I remember you have already experienced the sudden changes that can occur.
Buon viaggio,
eddied


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## barryd

Cheers Eddied. Marvellous! I think thats further north than where we were thinking if going I'm the next few days unless it's heading south to Belleno?

With Michelle being Ill I was hoping to get her somewhere cooler and quieter. 

There us no way she could handle Venice at the moment and I'm guessing the heat and mozzies on the coast will be just as bad as here.

We (especially me) have just been bitten to death. It's relentless. I must have a hundred bites.

It just seems to be us though. I haven't noticed any locals with huge bites on them or the local kids playing football near us today.wiered.


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## eddied

Oh dear. 2 ways to get rid of mozzies
1) Autan anti mozzie spray
2) regular intake of toast and marmite
saluti,
eddied


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## barryd

Well against your advice we headed up into the hills but not too far. Had a look around Belluno which was nice but decided to head 12 miles up the road to Mel where there is a free aire a few miles away. Couldn't believe it. Up a winding track about 30 degrees incline next to a castle, only us and a german van and hooray it's cooler but why they put a sosta here I dont know. Free ehu as well.

Mind you it's going to be fun dragging the van out of here if it rains. Do not
Come here in an RV.

Michelle really quite unwell but hopefully a mozzie free and cooler night might help


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## motormouth

Sorry about Michelle's illness. Look after her won't you.
Hope she's better soon.


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## barryd

Cheers motormouth. 

She's hardly eaten anything for days. Hopefully she will be on the mend soon. The heat was killing her.

She will be so dissapointed if she misses Venice now we are so near.

I'm planning on staying in te hills though until she recovers and hopefully it cools a bit down there. It hit 37 deg this morning.

Just trying to work out If we can get a train to Venice from Feltre which is just down the road but not so easy on my phone!

If so we can hang around in this area and travel in for the day if and when she recovers

Hows it in Northallerton? I'm missing Lewis and coopers!


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## aldra

Barry

Get some antihistamine tablets, they wont stop the bites but they do prevent the reaction to the bites

Chemist in Scotland "prescribed" them when we were eaten alive a few years ago

Now we carry then all the time and use them at the first sign, most of them are 1 a day

Needed them in the Cam argue this year

I do hope Michelle is feeling better, do you think she should see a doctor??

Take care both of you

Sandra


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## motormouth

Hi Barry,
Apparently you can get to Venice on train from Feltre, via Padova, but you probably know that already.

Hope things better today.

Things good in N'Ton ta, but expecting more torrential rain later today.
:x 
Only extremely rich people can shop at Lewis and Coopers, we go to Lidl and Netto. :lol:


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## jhelm

Barry, we just got back frm 4 days in Barcis, most of the time we were actually in Andreis which is after Barcis coming from Belluno. The sosta in Barcis was totally full on Satuday. Andreis is a cute town up on the hill over the river. The sosta is more like a picnic area but we were lucky to park near some trees with grass and a view of the river. The river more like a Creek with Little water but fun for the Kids we had ours and two cousins with us. Back in Barcis we waited for someone to leave and got lucky finally.

Venice this time of year is sure to be crowded and hot, actually it's crowded all the time now. Bumper to bumper people all year long. The sosta right in Venice is fine, no hook ups and expensive but close. We have parked right on the road next to the water at Punta Sabione a few times. Not sure about this time of year, but as long as you do not camp they do not bother you. Otherwise there are some camper parking only spots near the end of the road, no charge as far as I know. We are not sure about the train from Feltre, but there is one from Belluno, takes about two hours.

About your wife, if she needs a hospital the one in Belluno is good and big. I think you can park the camper in the parking lot and spend the night if you need to. If you need help with the language call us 0437 930 642. Hopefully she is feeling better on her own.


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## barryd

Thanks and thanks jhelm for the kind offer and info.

She's a bit better but still in pain. I don't think there is anything they can do. It happened last year and has troubled her on and off for over 25 years.

We are going to spend a third night in the cool spot under castello di zumelle near Mel. Nobody comes here and it's lovely but it feels a little abandoned. No water but the ehu us on!

We biked to the picnic area and andreis and did consider it as it's a nice quiet spot. Loved the village an we biked over the pass beyond it which went in for ever.

Hopefully Michelle will improve but I think we will head up to Trento and iseo and maybe get the train in a week or two from Brescia or Garda or just forget it.

Just wish she could eat more as shes hardly eaten anything fir about week


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## jhelm

Barry,
You always seem to come up with places to stay that we would not have thought of, you are quit an adventurer at heart I think. We have been to the castelle zumelle many times. It's a bit too close to home. There was a typo in you note so I'm not sure if were saying that there is an electrical hook up there. Are you parked right at the foot of the castle in that parking area. An interesting note, my wife's ancestor once owned that castle, it's not so clear exactly only that he was given it for some reason and we don't really know anything more about the history.

You are pretty close to Belluno. If you still want to go to Venice, I'd say come here, park at the Lambioi parking area and walk to the train station. It's a 2 hour trip to Venice. I'd say you could park in our yard as there is plenty of room but all the relatives are here and long story short is that they are very tense about strangers coming in the yard and the appearance of the property - you know campers are a bit unsightly to those who don't have one. We push the limits just parking our camper here which we only do if they are not here or in the summer when we are in and out with it a fair amount.


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## barryd

Hi thanks Jhelm

We've moved on now and if we do still do Venice well take the fast train from Brescia or Garda now.

Yes there were I think eight Hookups at the castle sosta but only room for about five vans! Water is turned off though!

It's not right at the bottom but half way down. Some french vans parked down the bottom though.

We are 1250metres up in the hills now at lavorone which is lovely and a cool 20 degrees.

Talk about finding these places yesterday we stayed on lake caldonazzo which is lovely but we found a little car park tucked away at the south of the town which was very quiet and free with about 8 vans scattered around it.

So naturally we stopped for the night and went off swimming in the lake.

Later there was a storm and we just made it back to the van but nobody else had! The vans seemed empty. Hours later by bed time still nobody returned. It wasn't until this morning that I figured there must be local vans just stored in the car park! Anyway it made for the quietest sosta in Italy I reckon! I'll pm you the gps info if you fancy it. 

Going to head across to Rovereto and villa lagarina tomorrow. I think the later looks like a ski place but again with no marked road to it! Have you been to either?

I think they are about 13 miles north east of the top of Garda. Will probably visit Garda as it's in the way but suspect it will be crowded.

On lake idro just west of Garda there is a sosta / free parking place showing up at Anfo right on the lake. 45.76453 10.49669

Anyone been? Sounds way too good to be true to me.


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## aldra

Barry 
keep that blog up to date 

we leave for Italy on the 3rd Sept

and need to follow in your footsteps

Michelle sounds to be better

I really hope so

But once she's well she becomes my rival

Not happy that she is such a slim gorgeous creature

but I'll get over it :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Aldra


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## jhelm

barryd said:


> Hi thanks Jhelm
> 
> We've moved on now and if we do still do Venice well take the fast train from Brescia or Garda now.
> 
> Yes there were I think eight Hookups at the castle sosta but only room for about five vans! Water is turned off though!
> 
> It's not right at the bottom but half way down. Some french vans parked down the bottom though.
> 
> We are 1250metres up in the hills now at lavorone which is lovely and a cool 20 degrees.
> 
> Talk about finding these places yesterday we stayed on lake caldonazzo which is lovely but we found a little car park tucked away at the south of the town which was very quiet and free with about 8 vans scattered around it.
> 
> So naturally we stopped for the night and went off swimming in the lake.
> 
> Later there was a storm and we just made it back to the van but nobody else had! The vans seemed empty. Hours later by bed time still nobody returned. It wasn't until this morning that I figured there must be local vans just stored in the car park! Anyway it made for the quietest sosta in Italy I reckon! I'll pm you the gps info if you fancy it.
> 
> Going to head across to Rovereto and villa lagarina tomorrow. I think the later looks like a ski place but again with no marked road to it! Have you been to either?
> 
> I think they are about 13 miles north east of the top of Garda. Will probably visit Garda as it's in the way but suspect it will be crowded.
> 
> On lake idro just west of Garda there is a sosta / free parking place showing up at Anfo right on the lake. 45.76453 10.49669
> 
> Anyone been? Sounds way too good to be true to me.


I have a bad memory with names so I had to do a bit of Google earthing before my reply. First Rovereto is full of stuff, it was our first trip when we bought the camper. There is a great modern art museum called MART, there is hike where you can see dinosaur footprints in stone and a nice restaurant at the beginning of the trail, there is the world's largest bell and a wwI museum.

I have not been to villa Lagarina, it looks nice on Google. I don't think it's a ski are. Stick to the 12 areas of the Dolomiti superski area if you come in the winter, that's where we go.

I believe another poster here some time ago stayed at Lake Idro or the other lake near there and found it to be great. I have never been.

We too have parked overnight a time or two where we thought there were other campers but it turned out to be locals storing there campers.

If you go to Garda, head out to Sirmione, there is a camper parking area there, probably full but you seem to be lucky so you never know, it's possible to park there overnight facing the lake, then walk out to the little town and the Roman ruins.

Yes send the location on Caldonazzo, and one other question, just curious what internet connection you are using as you seem to be well connected for a tourist. Here I use an always connected smartphone service from Tim and then use my phone as a wireless router to hook up the laptop.

One tip on Venice, if you want to get a little peace and quiet walk up to the Arsenale area and the park there. Also the maritime museum around there doesn't get a lot of traffic and is interesting.

And I almost forgot, my wife gave me a brochure on Val Di Sella, there is an outdoor natural sculpture garden, looks interesting it's near where you are now. www.artesella.it


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## barryd

Thanks Aldra and Jhelm.

Michelle isn't much better really. Seems better during the day but finds it hard to sleep at night because of the pain lying down. Nothing much she can so really but sit it out and hope it passes soon.

Thanks jhelm for all the advice. Sadly I only just read your post to late an we didn't stay Long in rowereta and headed up the hills. The sosta is basicall a little field near a little lake high up with superb views and free.

Internet is either via my iPhone using uk Vodafone contract or I use a powerful wifi antenna from www.Motorhome.wifi.com

Long thread on here re Vodafone as it used to be £10 a month now it's 69p a mb or £3 a day. However I use opera mini browser and can use mobile mhf for a few hours and never use even 1mb.

Aldra. I'll update the blog when I get a decent connection. Trouble is we are spending so much time up in the mountains even the locals don't seen to have wifi.

I would book into a campsite on Garda just for you  but I would rather stick pins in my eyes than ensure the living hell that is an Italian campsite (or any campsite for that matter) in august!

Had a look round one the other day on lake whatsitsface and it was just wall to wall screaming kids


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## barryd

Sorry typo above (can't edit mobile mhf)

Link should read www.motorhomewifi.com


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## Jak

Barry 

Nice to hear Michelle is improving and thanks for the info on the campingcar-info download - missed that when scanning the site.

Can you provide gps for the car park in Caldanozza. We stayed there on a ASCI site in June for virtually a week because the swimming and proximity of the lake was so good. Intending to return in September and would appreciate info on car-park for short stop-over.


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## nicholsong

barryd said:


> Link should read www.motorhomewifi.com


Barry

Wish somebody had directed me to 'addie's site before. I suppose he could not himself as he is not a Trade member (yet).

As for 'wall to wall kids' just creased me - I knew there was a reason i do not use campsites often and not in summer.

Geoff


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## Jak

If your looking for somewhere a bit quieter within spitting distance of Lake Garda you could try Lago Ledro which is at elevation just to the west of Riva. Nice less touristy location with 3 camp-sites and loads of mountain hikes. Not sure what the situation is with respect to overnighting tho.

Can't recommend the western route down along Lake Garda. Much of the road to the south of Riva is in tunnel. The modern sections are OK bit there are significant sections which are U shaped rock cut with a very optimistic 3.3m headroom. Managed to latch onto the rear of a couple of local buses for much of the journey but inevitably got stuck at one location when a German tourist bus came the opposite way and refused to budge on a bend until I squeezed past. Thankfully a group of Italian motorcyclists helped us crawl past the bus but with less than 150mm clearance to the corner of the van it is not something I would recommend.


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## jhelm

Actually we do have a wifi antenna on the camper, it's a vertical omni directional, not real powerful but we do use it sometimes. I don't find a lot of open routers in Italy any more.


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## barryd

Thanks everyone. This is turning into a really useful thread for anyone visiting this part of Italy. Pity I named it the great italian chicken run though! 

Sadly I deleted the favourite off the sat nav at caldonazzo but as soon as I get access to streetview i will confirm it and also eventually in the db on here. I think it's 45.98921 11.26641. Someone streetview it and you should find two small car parks at the back of the town. About 1.5 miles from the lake but only 300 meters from the town (well big village)

We are currently near lake Cei and the free sosta is at 45.95736 11.03146

The little lake reminded us of Tarn howes in the lake district and is about 3000ft up. The only difference is it's warm! Lovely for swimming.

To be honest I don't want to go to Garda. It's just one we feel we need to tick off the list but I know I won't like it. It's on the way west anyway! Just found a sosta at brentonico At 45.81534 10.95559 on autoroute cc infos and it's just a 10 mile bike ride from riva so might give it a try next rather than try to squeeze on one of the Garda sostas!

Jhelm. Omni directionals are ok if your near the wifi source but to get any real distance you need a directional antenna. Use the link I posted earlier. Addie has some great products and he won't have a problem shipping to Italy. 

We have found a few free spots in italy and nearly always get something where there are many houses buildings nearby. Austria was the worst for some reason.

Oh well, beers are cold, guitar out, great view and a 6000ft mountain to climb tomorrow. This is michelles idea as she want rid of me for a few hours!


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## jhelm

What is autoroute cc infos? I have Microsoft Autoroute.


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## barryd

Google doyourdream or pm activecampers on here. They have all the pushpins and dowloads for autoroute which match the www,campingcar.infos.com stuff.


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## eddied

Ciao Barry, I do hope Michelle begins to feel better very soon. This is just to remind you that Wed. 15th. is Ferragosto (August Bank Holiday) so this coming week you may well find many shops etc. closed; and most certainly post offices/banks etc. will be closed on Wed. Now that the storms have passed, you are much better off away from the crowds up in the mountains.
saluti,
eddied


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## jhelm

barryd said:


> Google doyourdream or pm activecampers on here. They have all the pushpins and dowloads for autoroute which match the www,campingcar.infos.com stuff.


Did that downloaded installed, thanks.


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## lesanne

Just been wondering ,,a question sir or madam ,,Do Italian Chickens run backwards ?.....


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## barryd

Just pulled into the Sosta at the little town of Brentonico just a short scooter ride from Riva Del Garda (Top end) and will be off there in a minute. Sosta is at 45.81534, 10.95559 and I was panicking getting here to get a space with it being the busiest week. There is nobody here! last night up in the hills there was only us and one neighbour. I reckon they are all at Garda. Will report back later.

Sosta here is 7 euros plus 1.50 for EHU if you want it. Superb views from the end pitch.

Free wifi at the moment just but its very slow.

Cheers All.


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## barryd

Riva Del Garda is quite a nice place but Torbole nextdoor isnt up to much but it didnt stop half of italy laying on the scrappy gravel beach.

Ive never seen so many windsufers and sailing dinghys but it was a great day for it with a big wind.

Campsites full to bursting and even the sosta was full at a whopping 30 euros! For a Sosta! I would want my own private butler and beer included for that!

Sosta at Riva Del Garda full as well and both were cramped and not in very nice surroundings. just 50c an hour that one but limited to 48 hours otherwise it goes up to 5 euro an hour!!!

Sadly the nice little sosta where we are in the hills seems to be a gathering place for all the local teenagers. So far reasonably behaved!


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## barryd

Hi Folks.
We finally came unstuck in Italy yesterday. Basically heading down from the Dolomites to Lake Idro and Iseo was a mistake. The first Motorhome parking on Idro turned out to be none existent and all the Sostas or free parking on Iseo were either full or you just wouldn't want to park your van there.

In the end we made a decision to leg it to France. After a 250 mile drive we spent the night on a Sosta about 25 miles west of Turin which looked lovely but was occupied by the loudest Italians we have so far encountered and it was blisteringly hot. No matter, this morning we headed up the pass to France, filled out boots at the cheese counter then cheaper diesel and then headed up to VARS LES CLAUX Aire at 44.57486, 6.67761 which is in the Aires book but it's at over 1800 metres not 1600!

Italy down from the Alps was just stupidly hot! We opted for the toll roads to get a wiggle on and its pretty much the most boring journey ever and soooo hot!

So. Viva La France!

We have loved Italy but only the out of the way alpine places. It has been marred by Michelle taking ill but she is hopefully on the mend. The Italian hospitals (we went to two) were superb and very quick.
The Sostas can certainly rival France and Germany and many of the out of the way ones we used are free with free facilities and even EHU.
My strong advice though if you're visiting in peak season is to follow our trend and get well off the beaten track. Avoid the likes of Garda etc.

So France here we are again! Free wifi, free Aire, superb scenery. Decent cheese at last and a day full of activity which saw our little tiny 100c bike up to the top of the Col de Vars at 7000ft. It was quite funny as on our way back passing for the second time over the top about 20 British bikers had arrived and as we passed I tooted my horn and gave them a victory V only realising as we flashed past that it would be the wrong way around. I wonder what they thought of the two British Idiots on the tiny scooter up at 7000ft speeding past in shorts and flip flops sticking two fingers up at them?

Near the top is an alpine lake and as it's been so hot today even nearly 30c up in the mountains I went for the plunge and dived in. For god's sake! Never do this if you have a heart condition. I came out minute's later red raw as it's FREEZING!

After a massive hike up to about 8500ft I finally saw our first Marmot of the trip!!!!

Cheers All!

Pig (our bike) at the top of the pass. Nearly 7000ft









Idiot in mountain lake









Marmot


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## aldra

Oh you sexy beast

Michelle once you get well your time is running out :lol: :lol: :lol:

As an aside, have been worrying about you ,really hope you are beginning to feel much better

Aldra


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## barryd

aldra said:


> Oh you sexy beast
> 
> Yeah I am!
> 
> Michelle once you get well your time is running out :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> As an aside, have been worrying about you ,really hope you are beginning to feel much better
> 
> Aldra


She's about the same Aldra. Still in a fair amount of pain but able to do some stuff. I guess its only been a few days so hopefully in another week she will be better.


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## barryd

Aldra and anyone else who might be interested Ive just completed and uploaded the entire blog for Italy at www.hankthetank.co.uk or you can go straight to it at https://sites.google.com/site/hanktestsite2/blog/summer-2012/italy

Most of its about chasing ambulances through the Alps but it might be interesting to some.

I would like to say that no Italians were harmed in the making of this blog but I cant be sure.


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## aldra

Thanks Barry

Just in time :lol: :lol:

Love to Michelle hope she is feeling a lot better now

Aldra


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## erneboy

Enjoyed your blog Barry.

Your Ambulance chasing story is very similar to one I did earlier this year when a friend who had been staying with us broke an ankle in Totana. Mrs. Eb ended up in the back of the ambulance with our friend. There was a bulkhead between the back and the front so she couldn't talk to the driver. Consequently as I tried to keep the ambulance in sight along the motorway from Totana to Murcia the ambulance driver must have decided I was racing him. Luckily there were no cops on the road.

Hope Michelle is feeling better now, Alan.


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## barryd

erneboy said:


> Enjoyed your blog Barry.
> 
> Your Ambulance chasing story is very similar to one I did earlier this year when a friend who had been staying with us broke an ankle in Totana. Mrs. Eb ended up in the back of the ambulance with our friend. There was a bulkhead between the back and the front so she couldn't talk to the driver. Consequently as I tried to keep the ambulance in sight along the motorway from Totana to Murcia the ambulance driver must have decided I was racing him. Luckily there were no cops on the road.
> 
> Hope Michelle is feeling better now, Alan.


Its not just me then that drama happens to!

Cheers Alan and yes thanks shes loads better.


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