# western Isles.



## ktesis (May 11, 2005)

We are visiting this area in early May and I am looking at what I may need in the way of extras! In particular should I take the genny or not. We do have a solar panel but the wife is asking about hairdryers! To be fair she has said that she could manage without. From what I have read sites with hook ups are few and far between how have others coped? I there anything on the provisions front that is hard to get like vegtables? My wife has to have her greens!! last of all are the midges active at this time?
Derek


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## UncleNorm (May 1, 2005)

Hi Derek. I trust you're well. Just to let you know you're not being totally ignored!! :roll: :wink:

By May, Scotland is very much open. That includes the occasional supermarket... there's a co-op in the Kyle of Lochalsh and Broadford on Skye. Uig on Skye has some small shops. Provisions are not something we'd worry about. Little village shops do exist but might be expensive! :roll:

The midges... now they are something we'd worry about. Depending on the weather, of course, they can get annoying as early as March, more so in April, but look out from May onwards, through to September. Mind you, I have been 'done' by them in October. Whether the weather be fine...

Midges hate sunshine and wind over 5.5mph. So pray for a breezy, sunny period for your visit. And when the little blighters are conspicuous by their absence, don't go walking through the long grass and heather, because they're hiding in the shade waiting to bite you legs!! 

Our motorhome has several green spray bottles of Avon Skin So Soft. My nephew Patrick sells it at his outdoor gear shop and claims to send out the nicest smelling mountaineers in the UK!!

http://www.914outdoor.co.uk/avon-skin-so-soft-spray-2059-p.asp

We'll be looking to visit the Lochalsh/Inverness area in September and October and we expect to meet the midges!!  They're part of the attraction!! :lol:

Whatever you do, wherever you go, enjoy the stunning scenery.  8)


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## Jagman (Feb 16, 2008)

Hi Derek

Lucky man  , NW Scotland / Western Isles is best mhing part of UK imho - fantastic scenery and relatively quiet roads. If by Western Isles you mean Inner Hebrides (basically Mull and Skye as far as the van is concerned) you should find lots of provisions within driving distance of anywhere you stop and the inside of any co-op or spar will be quite familiar!! Talk about globalisation (Supermarketisation!) the furthest NW town in the UK (Stornoway on Lewis) has the nations best Co-op superstore 8O

In terms of genny, if you are used to using one it could be useful to facilitate wild camping, not out of necessity as there are hookups on various sites on both islands but out of choice, there are loads of brilliant opportunites to wildcamp and scottish attitudes are generally very accommodating of the responsible wildcamper.

Midges are potentially holiday-wrecking for some people; at their worst they can drive you inside very quickly and keep you there! If you've never experienced them just go prepared and don't let them win!!

Try:

1. 2 types of repellant including the Avon product (which works for Norm and me but not for everyone hence suggestion of an alternative)

2. midge net (cheaper without hat but better with one) from a local outdoor shop or better still you could buy them on the way - eg. from Norm's nephews place near Eilean Donan Castle which has easy mh parking and its makes a good place for a journey break with coffee available  . Nice people too!

Remember:

a. there mey be no midges
b. midges may not like you - some lucky folk don't attract them

In my experience Skye is worse than Mull for midges.

Incidentally there is a very good campsite just north of Eilean Donan at Balmacara which is handy for the Skye Bridge with a decent pub and shops withing very easy walking distance:

www.reraig.com

........ now if you mean the 'outer isles' (Barra/the Uists/Benbecula/Harris/Lewis........ that's a different post 

Have a great trip!


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## clodhopper2006 (Aug 13, 2006)

Honestly I wouldn't worry too much about midges in early May we find up here they don't really get out in numbers till the second part of the month by which time their fangs a fully sharpened.


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## Ken38 (Mar 24, 2009)

Drat! We are setting off for the same area on the 9th May for 18 days. I hoped to avoid the midges by going then but Bob says they will have their fangs sharpened by the second half.
Let's pray for cold winds and sun!
My first visit to Scotland. I have never got past Newcastle before. Do they except English currency? Is Gaelic easy to learn? What is this whisky I have been hearing about? Is it good for coughs and colds?
Any unmissables while we are there?


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## aldra (Jul 2, 2009)

When we went to Scotland we were both seriously bitten by midges in the first couple of days and I came up in big red itchy weals. After a miserable night scratching we went to the chemist for cream.
He said what we needed was antihistamine tablets,wont stop the midges biting but stops the reaction to it. He was right, one tablet daily and we had no further problems for the remainder of the 3 weeks.
Now never travel without them, not only Scotland has midges!!!
Aldra


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## Jagman (Feb 16, 2008)

Hi Ken

Depends on which bits you're going to and what the weather is like. If clear you will enjoy the 'must do' Glen Shiel route up to Kyle before crossing to Skye - wonderful mountains plus Eilean Donan Castle (and the 'Norm shop'  ), and on Skye make the effort to continue on the A87 and enjoy the Red Hills and the Cuillins, stop at Sligachan for a bit - there is a site there if you need one - then do the round tour of Trotternish - fabulous views over the sea to the Outer Hebrides and amazing landscapes on the east side of the peninsula as you go south on the A855.

If you do Mull why not go Oban-Craignure single then come off the Island - eventually - from Tobermory to Kilchoan then you can do Ardnamurchan.

If it rains all the castles are worth a visit - especially Duart and Torosay on Mull.

try: www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopict-98682-days0-orderask-0.html

as usual with our happy forum a fair mixture of stuff on this big thread, some 'rubbish', but lots of good info. and ideas and several good links to other threads and websites

Happy travels!


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

I know we had trouble getting Beer on a Sunday! I cant remember which island it was, could have been South or north Uist. But there was just one shop selling alchohol in the middle of the island for an hour from 12 till 1pm. They were queueing up to get in when we arrived!

I think it was June when we were there. The first night we wild camped on a Loch on Skye and got bitten to death. Once we reached the Outer islands however we had no problems with them. There was always a breeze which helped.


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## Ken38 (Mar 24, 2009)

A daft question but if you visit the lochs during the day and move away at nights, can you avoid the midges more? Do they stay on lower ground near the water?
I guess there is boggy ground everywhere so the answer will probably be no!


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

Ken38 said:


> A daft question but if you visit the lochs during the day and move away at nights, can you avoid the midges more? Do they stay on lower ground near the water?
> I guess there is boggy ground everywhere so the answer will probably be no!


I think I read somewhere they are always within 100 yards of some kind of water course. When we wild camped by the loch on Skye it was right near the water on a still evening surrounded by peaty boggy ground. I had to pitch a tent and by the time I got it up most of me was eaten!

I dont remember having the problem at many other places unless it was still with little breeze. Last year on Arran in September they were a bit of a pain. Came out when it was still and dull. We hardly have a problem there though as we stick to the coast and its nearly always got a bit of a breeze.


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## Annsman (Nov 8, 2007)

Your basic problem Ken is water is everywhere in Scotland! 

We went to the Western Isles, i.e The Outer Hebrides, last year in April/May. We encountered no midges because is was piggin' freezing! The wind was biting and the rain fell 20 hours a day! We were there for 2 weeks and to be fair we did have some nice sunny days but it was bitterly cold. There are plenty of supermarkets on the way and there are some in the bigger towns. Local village shops are like the Tardis and are stocked with everything you'll need, even "greens"! It's not even that dear considering. About the same prices as many local village shops on the mainland. We used them when we could to put some money in the local economy. Stornaway has co-ops and a Tesco plus all the usual stuff. It even has a garage selling LPG if you have a bulk tank. There are motorhome service points at many of the island ferry ports and tourist info centres will tell you exactly where if you can't find them. Rubbish and re-cycling skips are everywhere. Just don't be tempted to use someones wheely bin left out for the binmen!

We had a great time despite the weather and the islanders were friendly and helpful. The only place we encountered any "hostility" to our motorhome was from an Englih person who was running the post office at Uig on Skye. Despite asking for, and getting permission, from one of the staff to use their outside tap to get some water, she accused us of "stealing it!" and made us turn off the tap and go. I had just spent over a tenner in the shop too!

Make sure you only wildcamp in permitted places. Don't use grass verges and the "Machair". There are "grazing Trust" sites on and near beaches where you can stay for a few quid, or some crofts are now setting up as CL style sites. Hook up was non existant except for the site on Benbucular. But it was £17 to pitch up on a piece of grass and an extra £3 for the electric, so I didn't bother! 

Your solar panel should keep you going but of course it depends on the weather and how many times your wife dries her hair! That said, we've got a large inverter, 2000 watts, and it's wired to our vehicle battery, so when we need it, say to hoover the van, I just have the engine ticking over. For hair drying Ann just uses it without running the engine and, because we have a Batterymaster that takes power from the leisure batteries, which are topped up by the panels, to the vehicle battery we've never had a problem. She can run it for 5 minutes or more and the levels don't even drop.

Things to beware. Depending on how low your van is, or how long the overhang is, some ferries on the smaller islands can be a bit hair raising to get on and off. The sound of grinding metal can be terrifying! Everyone waves, even the islanders so your arm may get cramp after a while! Smiling seems to be a national obsession and if you're not used to it it can be strange at first! Apart from that and the weather it's a great place to visit.


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## barryd (May 9, 2008)

The funniest thing I remember was driving across a causeway in the Uists and a battered Police car coming the other way with two grinning coppers in the front waving at us.

Everywhere we stopped people came out to greet us and to ask about and even try to buy the van. (It was a 1971 VW).

We parked outside one pub in the middle of nowhere only to be dragged in by the local lads who wanted someone new to challange at Pool and Darts. We ended up legless and parked in the car park for the night.

Happy days!


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

barryd said:


> clipped............We parked outside one pub in the middle of nowhere only to be dragged in by the local lads who wanted someone new to challange at Pool and Darts. We ended up legless and parked in the car park for the night.
> 
> Happy days!


Oh aye, I really do like that Barry. I just hope that I can reciprocate to the thread with the similar info, when we visit in September.

Cheers for now,

Jock.


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## mikebeaches (Oct 18, 2008)

Departing from Bristol tomorrow morning, heading for Scotland and hopefully the Outer Hebrides. Got it all pretty much planned, just hoping the weather will be reasonable.

Not booked ferries yet, but have spoken to CalMac concerning various options - probably go for the full-monte with Hopscotch 23: island-hoping taking in Barra, Uists, and Harris.

It will be our first trip to the Western Isles.


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## Jagman (Feb 16, 2008)

Ken, midges can be pretty well anywhere in Scottish rural settings, go equipped!! We were seriously midged in Galloway, which is way south, one year when somebody cut the grass on the site - it seemed to make them take flight in a very angry mood , no lochs nearby! 

Mike when you're on Barra look out for the Barra Beach Hotel a mile or so out of Castlebay going up the west side of the island, you can park there and walk through the 'grounds' onto one of the best beaches you will find anywhere and its at its best when the rollers are crashing in! If you feel guilty about parking there (they won't mind actually) just nip into the hotel or the attached 'pub' bar and buy a coffee! Its easy to miss seeing this fabulous beach from the road. The hotel has an interesting history and interesting folks running it.

Incidentally, as you probably know, there are several small facilities with hook-ups available on Barra now as crofters are starting to provide basic facilities but the campsite promised over the past two or three years still hasn't materialised. Details from Castlebay Tourist Information 01871810336. There are now two sites in the 'middle' of the Uists - the well established Shellbay site 01870602447 on Benbecula and a new one, Moorcroft 01876580305, a few miles north just on North Uist. Shellbay is fine and ideally located for both the Uists with a great walk from the site to the nearby beach, but Moorcroft is a better, much more modern facility.

We're of hopscotching again this summer - third time in three years - and we weren't put off by the Island Parish programme which simply didn't do justice to this wonderful part of Britain.

If you're going south to north don't leave the southern islands too soon, once you've gone, you've gone!

Have a great time!


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## mikebeaches (Oct 18, 2008)

Many thanks Jagman - some really useful info there!

I'd picked up on Moorcroft and thought it sounded worth a stay over.

Cheers, Mike


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## Jezport (Jun 19, 2008)

We did about 16 days in the Western Isles and only stopped on sites for 2 of them. We had no solar, no genny and one 85ah battery and because we drove each day we were fine for power.


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## PeterandLinda (Feb 21, 2009)

Hi

It always makes sense to prepare for midges but you are unlikely to find them a problem in the westen isles - it is simply too windy!

You will have to be careful of sunburn though, the only place I have ever suffered from sunburn was at Horgabost on Harris in May, and I have been to a lot of hot, sunny places.

P&L


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## Fairportgoer (Jun 24, 2008)

Hi ktesis (Derek)

We spent 6 months last year at the CCC site in Poolewe (Inverewe Gardens) if it is of any use have a look at our website for information on the area.

Enjoy your trip and have fun. It is a beautiful part of the country.

Website link below.

Regards

Dean


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## Hezbez (Feb 7, 2009)

Jezport said:


> We did about 16 days in the Western Isles and only stopped on sites for 2 of them. We had no solar, no genny and one 85ah battery and because we drove each day we were fine for power.


How did you dispose of your black waste?


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## musicbus (May 1, 2005)

*!*

We did south to north Outer Hebrides Barra Vatersay to Harris Lewis July last year. Wild camped all the way, used the generator parking up with hardly a soul in sight. Waste facility maps from Barra tourist office.

No midges, sunshine everyday, friendly people and some spectacular scenery. Used Calmac Hopscotch ticket.

Be prepared for midges but I have to say after having lived and toured Scotland for almost 8 years the midge problem is wildly overstated.

The Outer Hebrides will be one of the best trips you ever do!


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## Annsman (Nov 8, 2007)

I imagine they did what we, and other motorhomers do and use many of the free motorhome service points at the ferry terminals or some tourist info centres who are quite happy to let you use their toilets to empty the cassette.


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## clodhopper2006 (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: !*



musicbus said:


> Be prepared for midges but I have to say after having lived and toured Scotland for almost 8 years the midge problem is wildly overstated.


Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Don't tell 'em they'll all be coming up! We're trying to keep it all for ourselves :wink:


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## UncleNorm (May 1, 2005)

Trust me musicbus, the midge situation is NOT overstated...
_*
Be prepared for midges but I have to say after having lived and toured Scotland for almost 8 years the midge problem is wildly overstated. *_

I was erecting a garden shed for the nephew on a sunny, windy Sunday in June, on the shore of Lochalsh. I was pleased it was windy although I had to make use of lots of struts and clamps to combat the wind.

At around 8.00pm, the weather changed suddenly. A very still calm came upon me, and so did the midges. I sprayed myself with Avon Skin so Soft as I could not stop what I was doing at that point but, as I persevered, I was breathing them in!! They respond to the carbon dioxide/monoxide that we exhale. When the last screw was in, I dropped my drill driver and ran for my shower. The shower base was covered in the little devils.

On the west side of Scotland, between April and October, I'd do what you suggest and be prepared. But the situation is not overstated. Have I already stated that? Oh...  :roll: :wink:


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