# Trumatic heater problem and dripping tap



## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi Hobbits

We have just bought a 2000 FMSe and are very pleased with it. It has a couple of problems that need sorting out, however.

Firstly the Trumatic C6002 combi heater seems to work fine, there is no red led on the control panel and the water heats up OK. The problem is that the space heater fan does not come on despite the thermostat control being fully up (and it being pretty cold in the van). The fan itself works OK as it comes on for a minute or two to cool the boiler when it gets over temp. I think that the system must be getting erroneous info telling it that the temperature is fine. I believe there is a remote temperature sensor but I could do with some assistance finding it and locating where it is connected to the main PCB.

The tap in the kitchen is a recent replacement done by the previous owner and, according to him, has dripped since it was replaced. Can anyone tell me what the original tap manufacturer was and whether or not it needs a micro-switch (I would guess not as it appears to have a pressure operated pump). On another thread it suggests that a smev-ac539 tap is used on more recent 750's, would this be suitable for ours?

Any help will be gratefully received:thumbleft:.

Regards

Archie


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

If the tap drips it will be very unlikely to have a micro-switch. Have you considered looking for a washer that is faulty? If the tap is new then unless there is a manufacturing problem, as vans run on a very low pressure system, there is little enough power from the pump to force a leak normally. Unless someone knows otherwise.


Alan


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Lots on new taps no longer use the rubber washers used in older taps.

They use a ceramic cartridge type shut off valve. Small particles of grit can score the ceramic faces and this can cause the drip you mention. Replacement ceramic washers and complete cartridges are available, a lot cheaper than a new tap.

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/ceramic_disc_taps.htm

Terry


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## bognormike (May 10, 2005)

I can see your logic about the sensor, but can't remember seeing anything about one going wrong! Is that while working on gas or electric or both? Are all the air outlets from the heater open? 

and I'm with Alan on the tap...


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

This might help it doesn't seem to have sensor for the heater itself.

As for the tap, a lot of vans now have domestic ones fitted, less trouble, loads to choose from and less expensive unless you have to have the silly priced ones, solid too made out of solid brass, almost all have ceramic type seals.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

rosalan said:


> If the tap drips it will be very unlikely to have a micro-switch. Have you considered looking for a washer that is faulty? If the tap is new then unless there is a manufacturing problem, as vans run on a very low pressure system, there is little enough power from the pump to force a leak normally. Unless someone knows otherwise.
> 
> Alan


Hi Alan

Thanks for replying. The reason I think it is the micro-switch variety is because of the positive click you get when it is switched off. There is obviously enough pressure in the system to cause a drip because when the tap is opened with the pump off water runs for a about half a minute.

Cheers

Archie


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

dghr272 said:


> Lots on new taps no longer use the rubber washers used in older taps.
> 
> They use a ceramic cartridge type shut off valve. Small particles of grit can score the ceramic faces and this can cause the drip you mention. Replacement ceramic washers and complete cartridges are available, a lot cheaper than a new tap.
> 
> ...


Hi Terry

Thanks for replying. The tap looks quite cheap and plastic and I'm not sure if it could be dismantled without breaking it. It is the type that has one control that rotates from off to cold through to hot which we don't really like.

Cheers

Archie


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

bognormike said:


> I can see your logic about the sensor, but can't remember seeing anything about one going wrong! Is that while working on gas or electric or both? Are all the air outlets from the heater open?
> 
> and I'm with Alan on the tap...


Hi Mike

Thanks for your reply. We don't have the electric option and all the vents are open. The fan that provides the space heating is also used to cool the boiler if it gets too hot and that works OK but, as it only runs for a minute or so at a time, doesn't do anything to heat the van. The sensor is down as an optional extra but I have read on other threads that it is fitted to most makes of motor home as standard.

Cheers

Archie

Cheers


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> This might help it doesn't seem to have sensor for the heater itself.
> 
> As for the tap, a lot of vans now have domestic ones fitted, less trouble, loads to choose from and less expensive unless you have to have the silly priced ones, solid too made out of solid brass, almost all have ceramic type seals.


Hi Kev

Thanks for your reply. The smev-ac539 is about £40 which I would think is about the same as a good quality domestic tap. If a standard domestic tap would be good then I should be able to use this one.

Cheers

Archie


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## HarryTheHymer (May 1, 2005)

Never heard of a MH called a FMSe.

If your tap has a red and blue plastic insert on top - prise these out. This should reveal a screw head - remove this and take off the tap lever. Then unscrew the top ring. Then unscrew the inner ring using long nose pliers or similar. This will reveal the cartridge which can then be lifted out and inspected.

If you have a micro-switch this will be obvious when you first remove the tap lever. Another way of checking if it is operated by micro-switch is to look for electrical wires entering the tap from underneath.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

StormyWX said:


> Hi Kev
> 
> Thanks for your reply. The smev-ac539 is about £40 which I would think is about the same as a good quality domestic tap. If a standard domestic tap would be good then I should be able to use this one.
> 
> ...


I bought one, tried it and it leaked, but I'd had it a while so they wouldn't take it back so I put in on Ebay saying it leaked someone paid £20 for it, bought another domestic on form Aldi/lidl for £9 fitted that onto the worktop next to the sink and fitted one of these with a little clear silicone in the sink hole, job done no problem since, I don't have a switched pump though, mine is a Shurflo pump which works off a pressure drop when the tap is opened, if your tap didn't have the wires connected then your's works on the same system.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

HarryTheHymer said:


> Never heard of a MH called a FMSe.
> 
> If your tap has a red and blue plastic insert on top - prise these out. This should reveal a screw head - remove this and take off the tap lever. Then unscrew the top ring. Then unscrew the inner ring using long nose pliers or similar. This will reveal the cartridge which can then be lifted out and inspected.
> 
> If you have a micro-switch this will be obvious when you first remove the tap lever. Another way of checking if it is operated by micro-switch is to look for electrical wires entering the tap from underneath.


Hi Harry

Thanks for the reply. I should have said 750 FMSe. It's a tag axle Hobby.

The tap doesn't have the coloured inserts like a domestic one, it has a lever, on the right side of the spout, at the base that rotates from front to back. As you rotate the lever it goes from off to cold to hot. There is no way to regulate the flow so water sprays everywhere.

I think I will follow Kev's advice and fit a domestic one. The next problem will be matching up the fittings as we are in Spain and the tap connections will be metric.

Cheers

Archie


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

StormyWX said:


> I think I will follow Kev's advice and fit a domestic one. The next problem will be matching up the fittings as we are in Spain and the tap connections will be metric.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Archie


To give you an idea of what it'll look like to show the boss 










*Note*

The lever faces backward, as it a little too easy to knock it and unleash water all over the worktop   the spout moves 360 so not a problem,

I lied about where it came from, it was from here I had to junk the pipes which came with it and I got from a good plumbers (not Been & Queued) some tails to fit my existing pipes which are 12mm soft plastic, I'd advise get the new tap, remove the old one and take both to the plumber and ask for tails which fit the tap at one and and the pipes at the other they either have the exact thing or an adapter to do the job, either will do, I think your's will be 12mm barbed for the pipes, but not 100% sure.


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## HarryTheHymer (May 1, 2005)

Most German MH's (possibly Hobby) seem to fit Reich taps. The fittings on your van will be metric.

On my previous Hymer and current van I've got Reich Keramik Kama taps. These are single lever mixer taps. They make 2 models to fit either a 27mm hole or 33mm hole in the work surface. The hot & cold water tails are 10mm dia barbed. My tap fits a 27mm dia hole.

Link to Reich website http://www.reich-web.com/en/sanitary/water-taps/stand-alone/water-tap-keramik-kama-27-mm-detail.html

More recent vans seem to use the Keramik Trend S tap in the kitchen as it gives my height when washing up pots and pans. It's got a vertical spout with a U bend at the top.

As Kev suggests - you could look at the domestic equivalent but they won't have the micro-switch (if that's what you need).

All you really need to check is the existing hole diameter in your work top and make sure the inlet tails are 10mm diameter.

You should be able to find something suitable whilst in Spain.

With regards the Truma heater - if you can find the temperature sensor (small button type thing) you could remove the 2 wires and join them together. If the heater fan then continues to blow, you then know it's the sensor that is at fault.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi Kev

Thanks for the photo. We will probably end up with a solution like that one.

Regards

Archie


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi Harry

I will check out the Reich taps but, as I don't need the micro-switch, I might just go for a domestic tap.

On the heater front, it's the location of the button sized temp sensor that I was hoping someone could tell me. I believe it is usually put somewhere near the combi installation so will start looking around there tomorrow.

Regards

Archie


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

You have my sympathy Archie, I'm still having problems with our Trauma heater, Truma Derby are about as much use as a chocolate fireguard.


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## HarryTheHymer (May 1, 2005)

StormyWX said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> On the heater front, it's the location of the button sized temp sensor that I was hoping someone could tell me. I believe it is usually put somewhere near the combi installation so will start looking around there tomorrow.
> 
> Archie


Just had a thought - if your van is around the year 2000, then you probably won't find a button type temp sensor.

For Truma boilers of that era, the temp sensor was incorporated in the black rectangular control unit, I believe. I expect your control unit has a temperature dial and toggle switches for water heating and space heating.


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## deefordog (Dec 31, 2013)

Kev_n_Liz said:


> You have my sympathy Archie, I'm still having problems with our Trauma heater, Truma Derby are about as much use as a chocolate fireguard.


We had a moan at Truma last week about the fan speed on our 2008 C6002EH when on 1800w setting and after having two new elements fitted.

They've agreed to performance test the boiler and controls this Thursday at their Derby HQ, all FOC. Hopefully this will put our minds at rest - it's either working as it should and we're expecting too much or something else will need replacing.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

*Quick update on the heater*

Contacted Truma UK and they have suggested checking the control box, which has the switch and the thermostat, and the wiring harness. They didn't mention a separate temp sensor so Harry must be correct about that. I will have a look at it tomorrow.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

*Fixed the heating!*

Truma came up trumps.

I'm not sure what I did to fix it. I took the control box apart and thermostat consists of a bead thermistor and a variable resistor (for setting the temperature). I tried shorting the thermistor but I think that gives maximum temperature, disconnecting it would have reduced the temperature to 0 deg. I didn't want to snip a leg of the thermistor so I rotated the variable resister a few times and it started working so I can only guess that the contact inside was dirty.

Anyhow we have a result so thanks for all your help.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

StormyWX said:


> Truma came up trumps.
> 
> I'm not sure what I did to fix it. I took the control box apart and thermostat consists of a bead thermistor and a variable resistor (for setting the temperature). I tried shorting the thermistor but I think that gives maximum temperature, disconnecting it would have reduced the temperature to 0 deg. I didn't want to snip a leg of the thermistor so I rotated the variable resister a few times and it started working so I can only guess that the contact inside was dirty.
> 
> Anyhow we have a result so thanks for all your help.


Can you come fix mine now then  

.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

*Dripping tap*

This has turned into a bit of a nightmare. After leaving the van standing for about a week I went back to carry on fault finding the dripping tap only to find that the pump had stopped working.

On removing and dismantling the pump I find it seriously corroded inside and both the motor and the pump bearings seized. It also had some silicon sealer around the join in the two halves of the pump.

Got it cleaned up and the bearings running free again but it looks like the large rubber seal around the pump has been nipped and flattened. So all my work may be in vain and I will have to fork out for a new pump.

Anyhow, on the tap front. I managed to remove that and get it disassembled to find that one of the four little rubber o-rings has broken. I may be able to get a replacement for this so all is not lost.

The fun and games you have with older motorhomes. I thought I had put all that behind me with the sale of our American RV.

I might (a bit new to this still) have posted some pictures of the insides of the tap. It's a Comet BTW.


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## StormyWX (Sep 20, 2009)

If you are anywhere near Malaga, Kev-n-Liz, I would be glad to help.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Not sure which yours is but this is probably the most popular and easy to fit.

Pay attention to it's fusing requirements, an advantage is it runs fine with no water in it


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

StormyWX said:


> If you are anywhere near Malaga, Kev-n-Liz, I would be glad to help.


I never touch anyone elses lager, nah doesn't really work does it; Come to the beautiful Yorkshire countryside n stead is a much better plan.


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