# 2 week Loire trip



## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

I'll write a motorhome trip report and put some entries in the campsite database, but for now here (temporarily) are some pictures without explanatory context:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/daburleigh/loire

Dave


----------



## gaspode (May 9, 2005)

Hi Dave

Some nice piccies there, we look forward to the full monty. :lol:


----------



## 88927 (May 10, 2005)

Hi Dave
Great pics mate, thanks for sharing your trip with us and cannot wait for some explanatory notes (although I already recognise our garden in Versailles :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: ).

Keith


----------



## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Welcome back Dave, some great pictures, looking forward to your write-up 

Cheers


----------



## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

I'll refer to pictures by number in:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/daburleigh/loire
so you might like to have this temporary album open in a separate browser window. If some of the campsite/aire photos are worthy of a more permanent record, maybe I'll stick something in an MHF album which I have never done. I'll also edit this account in due course to refer to new entries in the MHF campsite database.

This was our first French camping trip of more than a long weekend and without the children. So although we felt we had explored many regions of France while camping over the last dozen years or so, invariably these had been planned on the basis of "we'll be happy if the children are happy", entailing staying at one carefully chosen base with all facilities and plenty of opportunity to use toys such as bikes, sailing/power/rowing boat, etc. Areas closer to Calais we had also either covered or reserved to do on long weekend breaks, but we had never done justice to the Loire valley and its chateaux, always traversing it on longer routes south and south-west with the children in tow.

Our overnight stops are shown here, numbered Night 1 to Night 14 (apologies for the ageing Autoroute base map, which doesn't show recent and very useful autoroutes):








We saw a lot, and missed a lot, so I don't make any particular recommendation for this tour strategy, as it were, it is just a record of what we ended up doing. We can always return 

SATURDAY 8TH JULY (NIGHT 1).
I've driven enough times from home to Dover ferries and Eurotunnel to be able to predict exactly how long it takes, but whether it was the panic of getting ready for an early morning departure having worked late on the Friday clearing the decks, or advancing age or just being laid back I don't know, but somehow I goofed and allowed far too little time. I guess having only 3 hours in bed didn't help me spar around when I got up ….. Anyway, we duly arrived at Norfolkline at 0750 for an 0800 departure (I won't describe the journey.…) having noticed the electronic signs showing "Next departure 1000" as we entered the ticket booth area. I really could have done without wasting 2 hours on that first day, but fortunately Murphy was for once on our side, there was some delay and the 0800 sailing departed half-an-hour late, which meant we were on it after all, nicely lined up for a quick escape the other side.
(Pic 1)

This was our second trip with Norfolkline this year, and the condition of the ship is a right lottery. This was the Maersk Dunkerque and I got the impression if anything broke, it was left broken. Galley facilities (toast machine, coffee machines) were bust, I couldn't find a loo door with a working latch, etc., and this ship is relatively new.

Our first stop was planned to be the "aire" right next to Versailles palace/ chateau
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=303&Localité=VERSAILLES
We saw the Eiffel tower on the way. Unfortunately this address and GPS co-ords are misleading, so we wasted an hour driving up and down the road and checking out two other campsites (there is an anecdote to be told another time regarding "Travellers"….), before returning to persevere and finding it at these Lat/Long (GPS) co-ords where I parked:
48.800528, 2.10538
Cut and paste these co-ords into the white "address" field in the top-left of Google Earth
http://earth.google.com/
and be transported there. Pan out to see the proximity of the palace and gardens.
6 euros per person and an absolute bargain for its convenience. You can walk to the palace and gardens and bike through the gardens away from the palace.
It is signposted "Versailles Association Camp P.A.J" OFF Rue St Cyr to the south and is open 15 June to 15 September.
(Pic 2)

SUNDAY 9TH JULY (NIGHT 2)
Pics 3 - 25 say it all regarding the Versailles palace, gardens and fountains. Pic 9 is the Hall of Mirrors.
http://www.chateauversailles.fr/en/
Pics 14-17 in the middle are Marie-Antoinette's Petit Trianon residence in the gardens.
http://www.chateauversailles.fr/en/122_The_Petit_Trianon.php
The theatres in both were stunning.
Pic 25 shows the large TV screen set up outside the palace to screen the World Cup Final. We walked back to the van just in time to have drinks and dinner and settle down for the match. The nearest van was some 30m away and French. When it got to penalties there was little suspense for us as the satellite pictures were delayed with respect to terrestrial, so as a Frenchman ran up to take a penalty we already knew from the loud cheers or their absence whether it went in!

MONDAY 10TH JULY (NIGHT 3)
Onwards to a cracking MH parking spot at Beaugency (cheers peejay):
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/modules.php?name=Campsites&op=display_results&csid=590
(Pics 26 - 30) Pics 29 & 30 typify good motorhoming for me - mucking about exploring new areas on bikes (and scooter for this trip), cooking an evening meal outside followed by drinking and chatting late into the evening, and as you wake up the following morning and throw open the window, you see wonderfully different sights like that. And sometimes all it costs is diesel.

TUESDAY 11TH JULY (NIGHT 4)
To Chambord chateau. Plenty of space for motorhome parking, but not overnight.
http://www.chambord.org
(Pics 31 - 39)
I found the architecture and building history of this chateau fascinating. You must see the video that explains it as soon as you enter because it puts the whole visit in context. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have inspired/designed the twin spiral staircase (Pics 33 and 38 ). And no-one but a King would choose to build such a structure on marshland, requiring it to be built on massive stilts driven into the marsh to stabilise the ground. All because the marshland was good for hunting 

On to free overnight parking at Chenonceau chateau.
http://www.chenonceau.com/media/gb/index_gb.php
47.33027434, 1.06891131
(Pics 40 - 42)
We cycled exploring the river but had to work at it; it wasn't a straightforward route.

WEDNESDAY 12TH JULY (NIGHT 5)
Visited Chenonceau chateau after a leisurely breakfast. I wish we had had the foresight to buy tickets as soon as it opened rather than when we were ready to go in, for we must have queued for 45mins or so. The chateau was much narrower than I had expected, but pretty unique.
(Pics 43 - 51)

Then onto Villandry chateau and gardens
http://www.chateauvillandry.com/
We didn't even do the chateau after what we had seen already but it is renowned for its gardens.
(Pics 52 & 53)
We parked just a short walk away at a MH friendly overnight spot, though didn't stay the night ourselves. (Cheers, Grizzly)
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/modules.php?name=Campsites&op=display_results&csid=649
(Pic 54)
We motored on, over a bridge 11km east of Saumur, having a number of overnight options ahead of us but feeling like stopping, and saw this campsite as we crossed the river.
(Pics 55 & 56)
47.20846115, 0.08015047 (good Google earth resolution)
Camping Belle Rive, 37500 Candes-Saint-Martin, 12 euros (more for a camping car than the sign outside would suggest) 02.47.95.98.11, open10 Jun to 10 Sep.

THURSDAY 13th/ FRIDAY 14th (NIGHTS 6 & 7)
We were feeling the need to chill out for a couple of days, take advantage of a site swimming pool, and do a bit of washing to freshen the towels up (must look into the subtleties of which microfibre towels to get), so a consultation of the Alan Rogers guide took us to:
Camping de Chantepie **** just west of Saumur
http://www.campingchantepie.com/en/
47.29390146, -0.1405077
(Pics 57 - 59)
The van didn't move for almost 48 hours although we did deign to walk to the river, sit on the scooter and play some mean games of boules, as well as float in the pool, read, drink, eat, and sleep.

SATURDAY 15th JULY (NIGHT 8)
You got what you paid for at that site, even if they gave me bum gen about where I could refill with GPL. LeClerc in Saumur didn't have it, but Intermarche did. Only we got there with the booth still unmanned for lunch for another half-an-hour. I didn't fancy hanging around and knew I'd be able to fill up in Angers, so off we went poodling along the edge of the Loire again.

Big mistake not waiting to get filled up in Saumur! I must have wasted an hour following supermarket signs that fizzled out and getting directions to a Geant which had GPL. Finally onto the aire at Bouchemaine on the SW outskirts of Angers, suggested by tramp via PM (thanks!). 6 euros.
47.41810898, -0.61122186
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=1986&Localité=BOUCHEMAINE
(Pics 60 - 62)
We didn't need water, but just as I had spotted the decidedly dodgy arrangements in these pictures, an intense Frenchman stopped by the van and started jabbering away. I slowed him down, because no way is my French that good and he didn't speak a word of English, but rather than lose interest at that point as most understandably do, he saw it as a challenge and didn't let up! After that conversation my back was dripping with sweat from concentration. It turned out he lived a few miles away, had a camping car himself, but was responsible for this aire, and he simply wanted my feedback. He then specifically asked about les sanitaires so I had to show him and point out what was wrong. He seemed interested enough and left after pleasantries.

The bike path from here into Angers is being re-done at the moment, and would be a challenge to walk given the size of the rock used in its foundations before the top layers are laid, let alone cycle.

SUNDAY 16th JULY (NIGHT 9)
We decided to dash for the coast, nominally heading for the aire at the tip of Ile de Noirmoutier.
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/modules.php?name=Campsites&op=display_results&csid=121
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=967&Localité=L'HERBAUDIERE
Now this was a high-risk strategy, given it being a Sunday of a bank holiday (Bastille Day on the Friday) weekend in the French holiday period, and so it proved. But we wanted to hit the coast, having thought about what we wanted to do on the return trip and how much time we had. The Ile de Noirmoutier was full of camping cars, all looking well-established. Even the massive aire at Noirmoutier itself was chocka:
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=1072&Localité=NOIRMOUTIER%20EN%20L'ILE
and the one at Epine full as well.
So we edged down the coast but St Jean de Monts was bedlum, so we cut inland a handful of km and stayed at Camping de la Maison Blanche ** at 85300 Le Perrier 02.51.49.39.23
46.81848816, -1.99757737
and spent the evening watching the traffic in the distance crawl home at the end of a holiday weekend.

MONDAY 17th JULY (NIGHT 10)
But we were on the beach! Hurray!
(Pic 63)
And spent most of the day a few km south of this spot at Sauveterre, just north of Les Sables d'Olonne. There is a massive car park with no height barriers a hundred metres from the beach, with no security worries of it being isolated way back from the beach in forest shade.
46.548587, -1.829054
(Pic 64)
I am a standing joke in our house for the sun umbrellas I collect on holiday and stash away at home. Naturally, I forgot to take one with us, so this time I improvised. With any luck I embarrassed Ali into not taking the mickey again.

When we had had our fill of sun and sea for the day we pottered on down the coast and stopped at the aire at Jard-du-mer (cheers, Wanderwagon):
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/modules.php?name=Campsites&op=display_results&csid=898
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=1087&Localité=JARD SUR MER

There was one Brit van among the handful of vans at this nice spot less than 100m from the water's edge, so once we had checked out the place, got a pizza in the oven, poured a chilled Pimms and the other couple had finished their dinner, I popped over for a chat. Partway through our conversation I thought he looked familiar, and he had a Nuevo van, so as I left to get a Brompton bike for them to try I glanced at the rear window but saw no MHF sticker. Then he came across and blow me down, it was Pete peejay! That is some spooky coincidence. It topped off a cracking day. They will also be back home by now.

TUESDAY 18th JULY (NIGHT 11)
So we did it all again today. Went down the coast to La Terriere, just up from la Tranche-sur-mer and managed to find motorhome parking 200m from the beach, again in the open but busy and secure. I'm guessing it is this spot:
46.357004, -1.470892
We stayed on the beach until 6pm, enjoying the playful surf, at which point we did not fancy anything other than sitting somewhere air-conditioned, so we hopped in the van and drove all the way to Angers, back to the aire at Bouchemaine, by which time the sting was going out of the sun, though it was still very warm. And blow me down, don't you just love the French local way of getting things done, because I now couldn't fault the sanitary arrangements!
(Pics 65 & 66)

WEDNESDAY 19th JULY (NIGHT 12)
Parked up at the bus terminal carpark near Angers chateau and visited that including the Apocalypse Tapestry, which is believed to be the oldest and largest in the world. The back of it has stronger colours that naturally have faded less, and it is cut so short at the back that the tapestry is almost as clear as from the front.
(Pics 67 - 75)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d'Angers
http://tinyurl.com/eajnj
http://www.mercer.edu/fll/angers.htm
then moved the van across to the free motorhome parking at:
47.47713288, -0.55664942
and visited the Jean Lurçat museum for more impressive contemporary tapestries, including his famous Le Chant du Monde
(Pic 76)
There is a small aire with sanistation opposite the chateau
(Pics (77 & 78 )

We moved onto Camping Lac du Maine, also suggested by tramp, and signposted all over Angers. 
Pic 79 shows the view across the lake to the centre of Angers. It is literally 10-15mins by bike into the centre of Angers or around the lake. I succumbed to spending 3 euros for hookup for aircon, as the air was getting very oppressive and brewing up for thunder later in the evening.

THURSDAY 20th JULY (NIGHT 13)
Drove up the newly completed autoroute and onto Vernon, Camping Les Fosses (ex municipal). This is a very handy site to visit Monet's garden at Giverny, as there are few aires around here.
49.09645037, 1.43895019
(Pics 80 - 84)

FRIDAY 21st JULY (NIGHT 14)
By this time I was feeling well and truly maxxed out on chateaux, gardens, tapestry, art and culture, and to avoid me saying something I might (no, definitively WOULD) regret, such as "I've merely traded a 'we'll be happy if the kids are happy' holiday for a 'I'll be happy if the wife is happy' holiday!" I left Alison to do Monet's garden justice
http://giverny.org/gardens/
while I went for a 50 mile spin on the scooter, ending up back in Vernon parked outside a bar/café, and sipped an expresso while watching the world go by and with a big grin on my face 

Then after swapping impressions over a reconciled lunch we headed off to the motorhome overnight parking at Boulogne opposite the Speedferries terminal.
50.72922591, 1.59491258
(Windows Live Local http://local.live.com/ has a slightly less cloudy Boulogne but not high resolution)
(Pics 85 - 88 )
More thunder and lightning in the night and Speedferries must have been running a sailing late given the unearthly time it did another turnaround.

SATURDAY 22nd JULY
Off to Auchan at Calais for shopping, diesel and the moules et frites I never got around to having on the Vendee coast, then to Dunquerque for Norfolkline's Midnight Merchant back to Dover. Home by 7:15pm and some Kingfisher beers and an Indian with my sons to finish off a lovely two weeks.

Dave
Edit - corrected sign of a longitude figure.


----------



## xgx (Oct 14, 2005)

Hi Dave

Copied it to read in full later....

The site Camping de Chantepie **** just west of Saumur seems a bit expensive at e30+ per night 8O on the other hand if you want that level of facilities...

We found one with riverside pitches around a third of the price (No pool) about 5ks from Saumur... the climb to the 'facilities' looked a bit like the steps on a Mayan/Aztec temple... :lol:


----------



## geraldandannie (Jun 4, 2006)

Looks like a great trip, Dave. I've printed it off, so I can read it and dream at work tomorrow 8) 

Gerald


----------



## Frenchlily (Sep 16, 2005)

Welcome back Dave,

The pictures are lovely,did Alison's shorts fall down in the censored one???
Was that you water skiing,I know you are a man of action!

Have also printed your holiday diary,to browse over at the weekend, we are searching for ideas for next year's trip. Thanks for sharing, and pleased you had a great time.

Lesley


----------



## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

Well naturally she complained that me censoring it made it worse than if I hadn't. My explanation that I was merely following her instructions not for that picture of her to be published fell on deaf ears. It's OK; she isn't poised like a catwalk model, but then again ......

No it's not me waterskiing, just an opportunistic photo as he came under the bridge we were walking across. I certainly don't feel like a man of action this morning; the radio alarm failed (and still won't work), maybe lightning in the night, and it's a struggle getting going :-(

Dave


----------



## 96088 (Aug 22, 2005)

Dave

I totally understand the 'It's a struggle getting going' bit. :? I have been back at work for 4 days now and quite honestly I don't think I've achieved anything that I couldn't have achieved by staying in bed. 

Apart from getting out of bed which I suppose is an achievement :wink: 

Anyhow, inspired by your diary I'm going to make one last effort to publish mine in the near future.

Good stuff


----------



## Telbell (May 1, 2005)

Most interesting-well done. Did the Loire many years ago as a Tugger but appetite whetted for return trip


----------



## 2point (Jun 10, 2005)

Good summary, just show how much in in that area, we're just back from a similar 3 week trip of the same area.

Thanks


----------



## carol (May 9, 2005)

Dave a super account - managed to read it in conjunction with the photos - thanks for so much information and the link in the first place. Hope you enjoyed your supper....

Carol


----------



## aido (May 17, 2005)

*post subject*

Did that same trip last year. loved the Chateau at Chambord. Also the site Camping Lac du Maine in Angers. wouldnt do it again nicer scenery in Notrh Wales....aido


----------



## Wanderwagon3 (May 27, 2005)

*As Topic*

Good Evening Dave

Splendid report to be perused in detail in preparation for our French trip Sept /Oct.

Glad you found the Aire at Jard as pleasant as we did.

Ken..........with Wanderwagon3


----------



## 88781 (May 9, 2005)

Very nice Dave,. great write up mate,.. and the time and effort put in is appreciated!  


Culture :wink: 

Dave :lol:


----------



## peejay (May 10, 2005)

Hi Dave,

Nice write up, i'll have a proper read tommorrow as we've just got back this evening ourselves.

Are you still taking offers on the Bromptons? :wink: :roll: 

Nice to have met you both.

pete


----------



## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

Pete,

Nah. They are like gold-dust now!:
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-145064.html#145064

Hope the second half of your trip was as successful.

Dave


----------

