# Are we crazy? returning to Iceland!



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

After much discussion about our next trip we have decided to go back to Iceland, just a year after our first visit. We enjoyed it so much and having our own accommodation with us was a wonderful way to see the country.
So, are we crazy? Probably the most expensive ferry in Europe and possibly the longest ferry crossing (and I get seasick) but much as we love going particularly to France, Italy and Croatia, we couldn't resist the allure of the most amazing motorhome destination we have visited, Iceland.
Ferries booked, Harwich to Hook of Holland, drive to Hirtshals in northern Denmark, ferry to Iceland via the Faroes, after a month return to Hirtshals then ferry Esbjerg to Harwich. Can't wait.
Lala


----------



## IanA (Oct 30, 2010)

Having spent 5 days in Iceland, I undertsand the attraction - we went winter-time to see the Northern Lights - we failed, so have every reason to go back. Have you been to the Blue Lagoon - amazing place to spend a relaxing day.


----------



## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

lalala said:


> After much discussion about our next trip we have decided to go back to Iceland, just a year after our first visit. We enjoyed it so much and having our own accommodation with us was a wonderful way to see the country.
> So, are we crazy? Probably the most expensive ferry in Europe and possibly the longest ferry crossing (and I get seasick) but much as we love going particularly to France, Italy and Croatia, we couldn't resist the allure of the most amazing motorhome destination we have visited, Iceland.
> Ferries booked, Harwich to Hook of Holland, drive to Hirtshals in northern Denmark, ferry to Iceland via the Faroes, after a month return to Hirtshals then ferry Esbjerg to Harwich. Can't wait.
> Lala


Respect :wink:

Northern lights is a must see before I die..

ray.


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

Hiya

I'm jealous!!

We spent our time pretty much only in the north half last year, so have the other half still to do! We partly got slowed down with a fuel line problem, which Hagu went way out of his way to help, a lovely man!

Do you have a list of places you missed, aim to spend more time where you couldn't before, or just revisit favourites? I had hoped to go diving, but we found very few touristy things were either open or interested the further into September we went. Next time we will arrive earlier, July maybe?

One of the highlights was a small plane flight from Myvatn down over the highlands and up along to Dettifoss and the coast. Well worth it!

I still keep an eye on their weather and road conditions just to see what they have to put up with. Its only towards the end we discovered their green (everythings OK) colouring for their roads, and is the best on the available scale, still means perhaps only one tyre track on your side is clear! Mad.

I think the ferry is roughly the same cost per hour on board as crossing the channel, so not too bad in that sense 

I'm sure you're aware of these sites Lalala but others may be interested.

http://www.vegagerdin.is/english/road-conditions-and-weather/the-entire-country/island1e.html

http://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/areas/

Have fun!

Jason


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

IanA said:


> Have you been to the Blue Lagoon - amazing place to spend a relaxing day.


Hi IanA,
We didn't go to the blue Lagoon, we thought it would be rather commercial as so many airport arrival and departure transfers seem to go there. However you obviously enjoyed it so we'll find out a bit more about and if we are nearby then, who knows!

Jason, good to hear from you again, did you change your van? We shall do some of the same places again, but being later in the year they won't be the same. Otherwise we have some 'didn't dos' to do. Last year we were early enough for a lot of the birds to be nesting and we had amazingly good weather for most of the time but are prepared this year for whatever the Gods fling at us. Some snow would be great for the photos. 
We flew across Vatnajokull and that was wonderful to see. We are trying to find a trip into the interior but as our insurance company will allow only 36 hours before the need for agreed secure parking, it might be difficult. I'm sure the companies would keep our camper at their premises but I think the underwriters won't be happy with that. So we're still considering. We hope to meet Hagu again.
I'm very excited about it, though we have lots to do before then,
Lala


----------



## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

Some tempters for those who haven't been.


----------



## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

And another 3


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

Great photos Stanner, made me get my last year's ones out, here are a few, might tempt some-one else....


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

and some more photos;


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

and the last!


----------



## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

The Blue Lagoon was well worth a visit when we were there in 1997 but I have heard it is now a lot more commercialised and A LOT more expensive.

I suspect that if you got there early or late, you should catch it at a less busy time. If late, you are allowed an extra 45mins after closing at 9pm.

http://www.bluelagoon.com/Geothermal-spa/Opening-hours/

PS we are thinking of going back and have looked at flying and hiring a m/home rather than a very long drive + ferry.

Or might try for a m/home exchange :wink:

PPS just checked the prices and I think I'll fit floats and sail across.

2 weeks hire = £2000 - £3500 depending on model/size + CDW (or £2000 xs)


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

Hiya

Lovely pics!  No change to our wheels as yet.

A few of ours.


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

The icy roads pic is tarmac post plowing, so just hard ice left. This was the state of most roads above a few hundred metres by the time we left, the worst almost being the road back to the ferry because of its height. We won't be booking the last ferry of the year again!


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

The start of the road into the Highlands from just east of Myvatn. A week or so later there was a chain across and most tracks across the middle were closed. 

Walking inside Askja was very spooky. The top layers are a small lightweight gravelly material from a recent eruption, a few metres under this are bigger lumps which are very jagged and irregular from an earlier one. Anywhere theres some surface water, or near the effect of the path, the top layers settle into the voids underneath creating a lot of small surface cracks! Added to that, it feels hollow underfoot, like mossy heathland, so even though it is unnerving sticking to the waymarked path seems a good idea! Plus the road up the outside to the start of the path crosses a lot of collapsed lava tubes and you just want to get on with it and not think about what you're on!


----------



## Lesleykh (Apr 13, 2009)

Love all the photos. It looks like our kind of place.

What camera did you use lalala?

Lesley


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

The small buildings at the base of Askja are the Rangers hut (with Ranger, most Ranger posts were unmanned by early/mid September) and an unmanned dorm room of some sort. A group of tourist off road bikers had been there for two nights hoping for better weather, then left the morning after we arrived when we told them the snow stopped in about 20km and it wasn't too bad. The forecast prior to this was for showers. The Highlands are not too high really, but the latitude you're at makes bad weather happen when we didn't expect.

At the mouth of the ice cave is actually steam, a hot spring comes up under the glacier somewhere, comes out here and I suppose helps create the cave. Theres also steam to the right of the photo, as it begins to blend with the main stream of icemelt. There was a closed off bridge to get to the other side of the river so you can bathe in the hot one, but the bank had been eroded too much making an unstable slope, and the ice blocks recently fallen off lying slightly right low centre are the size of cars. Not safe for your rubber duck! Even if you could get there in spring, I'm not sure I'd want to be there!


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

2 more


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

Lesleykh said:


> Love all the photos. It looks like our kind of place.
> 
> What camera did you use lalala?
> 
> Lesley


Lesley, I read some of tour blog when you did your long trip, and yes I agree that Iceland would be very much your sort of destination. Every day was a wow day, in fact at one time we felt we had wow overload and were beginning to get blase!
Most of the photos were taken on a Nikon D300 (quite old now) with either a 17-55 lens or a 70 - 200. Some of the shots were taken out of our moving vehicle and that's where the D300 is great, it has a very fast shutter speed. We also have a Nikon D3100, an entry level camera body because we like to keep both lenses handy and attached to a body. It also means we can both take photos.

Stanner, The motorhome exchange idea is really good. The cost of hiring a motorhome is very high, I was surprised you found something in the £2000 range. When we went last year our son and his family flew out and took over our van while we flew home, then they made the ferry journey back. They saved a fortune on hire costs! We were thinking of hiring a large jeep for a few days to go into the interior but again the hire is very high, and the excess on the insurance is even higher.
Lala


----------



## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

lalala said:


> Stanner, The motorhome exchange idea is really good. The cost of hiring a motorhome is very high, I was surprised you found something in the £2000 range. When we went last year our son and his family flew out and took over our van while we flew home, then they made the ferry journey back. They saved a fortune on hire costs! We were thinking of hiring a large jeep for a few days to go into the interior but again the hire is very high, and the excess on the insurance is even higher.
> Lala


Hmmmmmm........... that makes me think :idea:

Anyone fancy a hiring a UK m/home? Collect it in Iceland and drive it back to the UK?


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

[quote="grizzlyj
Walking inside Askja was very spooky. The top layers are a small lightweight gravelly material from a recent eruption, a few metres under this are bigger lumps which are very jagged and irregular from an earlier one. Anywhere theres some surface water, or near the effect of the path, the top layers settle into the voids underneath creating a lot of small surface cracks! Added to that, it feels hollow underfoot, like mossy heathland, so even though it is unnerving sticking to the waymarked path seems a good idea! Plus the road up the outside to the start of the path crosses a lot of collapsed lava tubes and you just want to get on with it and not think about what you're on![/quote]

Jason, love your photos and especially good to see the ones of Askja as we are thinking of going this time. We wouldn't take our camper, even though it is 4x4 I can't see it coping well, so it would have to have a 'trip'. These aren't cheap, so if you could say whether you think Askja was really worth going to that would be enormously helpful. You went in September, was this early or late? We were offered a 2 day trip by Geotravel, to include Askja and Kverkfjöll but 1125 Euros is a lot to pay, particularly if the weather is bad.
Any thoughts appreciated,
lala


----------



## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

_Every day was a wow day we felt we had wow overload and were beginning to get blase!
Lala_

Funny we had the same thing touring Norway scenery overload..

ray.


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

rayrecrok said:


> _Every day was a wow day we felt we had wow overload and were beginning to get blase!
> Lala_
> 
> Funny we had the same thing touring Norway scenery overload..
> ...


Hi Ray

When were you in Norway to not see the Northern Lights? A future trip for us!


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

Hiya

The snow started on the 7th Sept. A farmer bringing some fuel to the ranger got stuck behind us in a standard 4x4 Hilux shivering in only jeans and a thin jacket, he was surprised so much had fallen so maybe that was unusual. But the ranger at Askja said she hasn't been there later than about the 15th Sept anyway due to the weather.

There were plenty of hired 4x4s flying along these corrugated tracks, but they were mainly Suzuki Vitaras or Jimnys on the same tyres you'd get from a UK dealer when new, not proper "off road" tyres at all. The couple of 4x4 campers with poptops we saw may have been old L200's or Hiluxs, but again just normal road biased tyres, nothing knobbly or oversized. You see the big "super jeeps" and think without that it would be stupid to try, but almost the only obstacle is corrugations weather permitting. I'm also fairly sure I've seen a photo of a normal fair size 4x2 campervan in Askja's carpark?

I met the Geotravel man a few times, and he seemed a very nice bloke with a really nice 4x4, but that does seem a fair bit of cash. His 4x4 was parked up as an advert quite often in the tourist info car park at Myvatn, so he wasn't that busy in Sept from what we saw. And he's not the only one who does it of course. And theres a 4x4 bus that explores the centre to some extent, but I can't find anything with a quick google.

So, if you're there a little while, I'd go and have a look in your van and see what you think, then book something if you'd rather at that point. Our map says there are 3 fords before Herðubreið using the F88 from the north, or only two on the F910, from memory the middle of the three was the worst, maybe 400mm deep at that time?. Theres nothing stopping you going to look, and even if it looks bad wait for a 4x4 before crossing and ask for a tow if you get stuck. There were plenty of 4x4s before the snow fell, so I don't think you would need to wait long. Between these fords the tracks were no different to many I'm sure you travelled on anyway (maybe a few short sections of soft sand but no big deal even for a car as far as I remember!). If snow fell, or sunshine melted more glacier and raised river depths, then the hired 4x4s may not be in a better position than you, and you'll have food and lodging waiting for it to improve  

If you got to Myvatn then you can also get to the icecave, no more fords until you retrace your steps. Or head south-west weather permitting, the track south of Trölladyngja was suggested as being very beautiful. 

The ranger huts have a radio connecting them all and emergency services, for you to use even if the hut is unmanned. When we came to a stop with our fuel problem we rang 112 just to say where we were and what we were doing, their opinion being thank you for letting us know before there is a problem so help is there. The ranger said she has towed people plenty of times who have got stuck.

The road all by itself is worth a look. Completed in the spring '62 following the eruptions in Oct '61, some areas were still warm enough to keep the road crews tea mugs warm. Its route can only be described as tortuous, going full lock to full lock as you wind through, around and over a huge lava field. Theres a footpath from Herðubreið campsite thats worth your own trip by itself to explore different lava types, and a convicts hideout to find in the oasis of green weirdly in the midst of such barren rock. 

If you went to look and decided there was too much water I'd park the camper at a campsite having hired a 4x4 for a while. If there already was lots of snow then hire a driven superjeep, that would be lovely even at that enormous price! Otherwise I think its not needed.

One way or another, Askja, Viti, the ice cave and the whole, mad area are very worth it. I should have been braver and gone for a dip in Viti too! We will be back 

You can get a raised air intake for your van that looks quite neat. I don't know what the standard wading depth for it is? And, when I first investigated Bilbos 6 or 7 years ago, lower suspension to get you under two metres was a cost option on SWB Transporters, standard on LWBs, now standard on all of them. New springs can't be too much and easily reversable, so raise your camper for the trip and stick on some knobblier tyres at the same time? A tow bar, shovel and a rope with springs and tyres might be less than half of Geotravels quote?

I'd be asking your friend and mine too though 

Did you notice most campsites are open only in August? The later you go the more close up, until by October you only have two year round ones left in theory? We found hook up often just left on anyway (assuming you took a cable this time), but water had long been turned off and plumbing entirely removed.



Arrrrrgggghhhh too many words!!!!!! Sorry


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

I was a bit out on a pukka lift cost 

http://www.vw-offroad-seikel.de/en/products/seikel-vw-t5-till-my-2010/






This vid isn't the same kit since it has portal axles too, but it does look impressive even allowing for dodgy camera angles!


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

Thanks everyone for your comments and the photos. 
Jason, thanks so much for the very informative post about the road to Askja. We have discussed the various possibilities and are going to do as you suggest, that is to try the road and if we can do it then fine and if we can't then we have lost nothing and will turn around. I will buy the 1:200000 map advertised at Stanfords, I think it is the one you took with you. That way we'll be more certain of the roads than with our current map.
We can join a Geotravel tour just to Askja for 172Euros each, we could be with another four people but perhaps not in September when there will be fewer people wanting to do such trips.
The idea of raising the suspension is great, and we loved the videos. I would like an Seikel EXTREME makeover but hey what a price! And we'd never get under those 2m barriers again.
Worth thinking about though is the 30mm Seokel rise - though what the insurance company would say i don't know. Will have to ask.
However for this year our suspension will have to stay as it is as we have hardly any time available all summer. I'll look into possibilities for changing tyres and see what is advised.
Lala


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

Hiya

I did think suggesting you re-engineer your suspension was perhaps a little OTT  A tow rope and small shovel wouldn't hurt though?

The map we had was ISBN 978-9979-67-209--8 by www.ferdakort.is at 1:200 000 as you say.


----------



## bb46 (Oct 26, 2008)

*Iceland, here we come*

We went to Iceland on a 10 day package trip in 1989 and its the only place we have visited that we said we would return to (with our own transport), so... we are off at the weekend driving via Dunkerque up to Hirtshals to get the Smyril ferry. We then have four weeks on the island. Thanks go to Lalala for your report last year which whetted our appetite and prompted us to return.
Yes it is expensive to get there - 3000 euros - but what a feast for the eyes when we do + Faroes thrown in for good luck. We have also been fortunate with the weather in the UK - it has helped us acclimatise to Icelandic temperatures - you never know we may even find it warmer there!!!
Do any of you know how strict customs are about bringing food and alcohol?

Barbara


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

*Re: Iceland, here we come*



bb46 said:


> Do any of you know how strict customs are about bringing food and alcohol?
> 
> Barbara


Hi Barbara,
I feel so excited for you, going next weekend! Which way round are you planning to go? If going North first (clockwise then can I suggest you look at turning off the No 1 road about 20km out of Egilsstadir andtaking the 917 to Vopnafjord, this is an amazing road which goes over a pass with wonderful views. Vopnafjord has a reasonable campsite. Then the 85 where after Thorshofn (Porshavn) there is a super 7km walk round the cliffs and where you'll see puffins and other birds close-up. On the other side of that peninsula there is a rather pleasant free campsite at Kopasker, with a black sand beach and excellent small free museum.
Now to stop being carried away and answer your question, we had no trouble with customs, they took one look at our English registration, said 'oh are you from England' we said 'yes' and they waved us on with their very best wishes. I don't know how many vans they stopped but there were some being stopped. However when we return this year we shall take very little food for Iceland, the shopping there was good and not that expensive. The budget supermarkets are called Bonus and they are as good as anywhere else. There is one in Egilsstadir but it is round the corner from the centre and most people seems to go to the more expensive supermarket before they saw the Bonus. It is on the road to the airport. We didn't buy much alcohol as anything above 2.5% was very expensive and had to be bought from the Vin Bud outlets. However up to 2.5% was in the supermarkets.
Which areas are you planning to visit? Our weather last year was wonderful, after the first couple of days we had endless days of blue skies and sunshine.
have an absolutely great time.
lala


----------



## grizzlyj (Oct 14, 2008)

*Re: Iceland, here we come*



bb46 said:


> Do any of you know how strict customs are about bringing food and alcohol?
> 
> Barbara


Hiya

We didn't take very much but no-one asked or looked, but I think the limits are aimed at Islanders shopping out of the country and bringing it back rather than visitors. Either way, one camper that disembarked with us had a coolbox you could probably fit 3 small kids in, stuffed full! And, more to the point, there was a freezer container on the dockside, both there and back, for people (like that camper owner) to transfer their frozen stuff into for the crossing. Not businesses, just family cars, campers etc. The container lived on the car deck on the crossing.

As lala says though, there isn't much point!

Have fun

Jason


----------



## bb46 (Oct 26, 2008)

Hi Lala and Jason 
Thank you both for all the information which will be very useful. We are stopping off in the Faroes on the outward journey and as you did, are planning to overnight at Seletrad and go to Gjvov and Eidi. When we get to Iceland we are proposing to travel anti-clockwise, for no good reason other than I have read that most tours travel clockwise! Is there a good reason why most travel anti-clockwise? 
When we went last time we started from Reykjavik, travelled with a small group and managed to cross Sprengisanduer (incredible) and Landmannalauger (fantastic) in a front wheel drive minibus! This was in the days before F roads and 4x4 restrictions. We are therefore sticking mainly to the ring this time. Places we want to see include the Glacier lagoon, Ondverdames/Snaefellsjokull, the Westfjords, Husavik or Olafsfjordur for whale watching and Myvatn. The detour you suggest to Vopnafjord sounds good so will try to fit it in on our way back to Seydisfjordur. Any more suggestions would be welcome. 
Lala, have a great time when you return in September it will be interesting to hear how different it is travelling at that time of year. 
Barbara


----------



## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

One place that is definitely worth a visit is Skógafoss.


----------



## lalala (Aug 13, 2009)

bb46 said:


> Hi Lala and Jason
> Places we want to see include the Glacier lagoon, Ondverdames/Snaefellsjokull, the Westfjords, Husavik or Olafsfjordur for whale watching and Myvatn. The detour you suggest to Vopnafjord sounds good so will try to fit it in on our way back to Seydisfjordur. Any more suggestions would be welcome.
> Lala, have a great time when you return in September it will be interesting to hear how different it is travelling at that time of year.
> Barbara


Hi Barbara, if you are going to the Westfjords the free campsite at the bottom if Dynjandi is a lovely location, waterfall on one site and bay/mountains on the other.
We went to Geyser and Gullfoss really early in the morning, there was no-one else there for the first hour - well worth the early rise.
I look forward to hearing about your journey,
Lala


----------

