# Removal of Interior



## jifcom (Sep 23, 2012)

Hi Folks
I have inherited a Elddis Autostratus LS motorhome which is in need of a full interior strip down due to damp, I plan to do this all myself (With help from 2 friends) as I dont want to spend much money on it.
I decided to get a Habitation Check done on it and passed everything apart from the damp check which was quite horrendous. The damp starts from about 3ft from the back of the drivers seat and goes all the way to the back with readings from 40 to 70 :-( 
As I have retired early I have plenty of time on my hands to undertake this plus I use to be a carpenter, so that helps. one of my friends is a electrician and one a Gas fitter 
so between us we might get a good job done.

I have read all there is to know about dealing with damp but any tips would be useful, but the main thing is the strip-down of the interior. I plan to remove everything and start from a clean plate (and damp free, I hope)

So advice please.

1. Is it worth it?
2. Where do I start? what needs taken out what order? tips for removing the furniture?
3. A good source of wall-boarding or would going with 3mm ply and cover with vinyl be better.
4. Mouldings, wood or plastic?
4. Things to look out for, 
Just a few questions to start, no doubt there will be many more.
regards

Jon


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi.

Whether you do an interior strip down or not or is worth while is your decision, but what ever you decide the source of the damp must be identified and resolved or all your endeavors will be in vain.

If it was me I would remedy all the damp sources then monitor the damp problem as it may just dry out and be alright, as a joiner you will know as we come across the problem of wet wood nearly everyday of of our lives, remove the source of water ingress and providing the timber hasn't gone soft with wet rot, then everything is usually OK..

Dry rot of course is a another game entirely, if you have this you have a major, major problem..

The word damp and folks who do not know how wood works, sends them into a melt down rushing down to anybody who will make it go away at any cost, when in most cases a couple of tubes of good quality mastic will save the day along with time for the van to evaporate the damp, a good flow of air through out the van will help to dry it out, shutting everything air tight in fact actually encourages damp problems, especially during the colder months..

Of course others views will differ, it is up to you to take on board the comments or take into account your joinery back ground.

ray.


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## MikeCo (Jan 26, 2008)

As another ex joiner I totally agree with the above post. Sort out the seals where the van is leaking and then get some heat into it and let it dry out.
Bear in mind that a normal damp reading can be up to 15% or so. 

Mike


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## jifcom (Sep 23, 2012)

thanks for reply rayrecrok.

No point in monitoring the damp, I can put my finger through large areas of wall-board and there is definitely timber with wet rot behind that. thats why I said a full strip down.

As for locating the source of the damp, thats to be found out by the stripping out, 

I will then have to strip the outside off and re-mastic when the new timber is in if I decide to go ahead. if I dont then I have lost nothing, If I do, then hopefully I will have a usable MH with not to much out lay.

either way, I will strip out first and make a decision then. 

Jon


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## sideways (Jun 2, 2008)

From what i saw during the many times i was in Kenny Carters workshop at Magnum mobiles in Grimsby while they were repairing vans taking the roof off from the outside is the way to go, most vans are made with either the furniture fitted to the sides before the sides are fitted to the floor, or the furniture fitted after the sides are put on, then the large appliances are put in from the rear, then the rear panel fitted,then the roof then finally the cab cab if its a separate piece,
Taking the roof skin off should give you a clear picture of the water tracks and save you a lot of interior dismantling, hope they used stainless screws origionally to hold the roof/wall cover strip on if not there will be lots of drilling as they will be a rusty headless mess. good luck, By the way Magnum will have every last item you need plus loads of helpfull info.


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## rayrecrok (Nov 21, 2008)

jifcom said:


> thanks for reply rayrecrok.
> 
> No point in monitoring the damp, I can put my finger through large areas of wall-board and there is definitely timber with wet rot behind that. thats why I said a full strip down.
> 
> ...


Hi.

Good luck it sound's like you have a "project" on your hands..

ray.


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## dragabed (May 24, 2008)

hope you photograph it all and put it on here so we can all benefit from knowing what goes on under the skin and how they go together good luck it sounds a big project
i would start by removing or disconecting electrical items including fridge,cooker,boiler then gas fire and water facilitiesonce you have these out of the way photographed and tagged you will have a better idea of what is going on.
you could then remove a board to see how they are fixed and the extent of the damp problem bearing in mind what sideways said about the construction of the walls and roof


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## Bazbro (May 9, 2005)

Good luck with this massive task, Jon, and it sounds as though you're qualified and well-prepared.

As others have said, you must identify and permanently repair the source of the leak if your work is not to be in vain.

Whether it's worth it is up to (a) how old the 'van is, (b) what the rest of the condition is like, (c) how good the refurb is, and (d) what your aspirations are!

O'Leary's, CAK Tanks and Outdoorbits are just three good sources of "bits". *Sideways* has already mentioned Magnums and there will be more suggestions - just ask here as you go along!

Please take loads of pics and keep us all informed as to your progress. You'll acquire a huge amount of experience doing this and I,personally, admire you for undertaking what could be a great, profitable 'retirement hobby'.

Good luck again!


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

As you may already know, the interior furniture is in place before the exterior is added, so although you may have rotten interior zones, getting behind the major fittings may prove difficult.
I repaired the whole rear end of my motorhome from the inside as it had a rear lounge diner and no major obstructions other than overhead cupboards.
You will of course encounter insulation which will hold on to damp and perhaps disease and will need to go. You know more about timber than I will ever know so I will not go there, however reading as much as I could get hold of at the time I used marine materials that are designed for getting wet. I used marine fillers, and glues that although a little more expensive worked better than I had expected. Marine Chandlers (I got mine from Malden in Essex) supply and carry an assortment of suitable materials for almost any occasion.
As for where the damp is getting in, this may prove to be less obvious as water may travel some distance before it becomes evident.
Finally you will need to determine what is the most suitable sealant with which to repair the leak(s) when you find it (them). There are silicon based fillers or mastics that remain plastic and malleable, they both have advantages and disadvantages.
The very best of luck in your endeavours, which as you have already decided, will prove to be an 'interesting' challenge.

Alan


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## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

I have come accross this material which could be of help.
I have never used it.
Pro-flex multi purpose sealant.
Alan

http://www.repairproducts.co.uk/page37.htm


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## trekki (Jun 2, 2010)

Hi I found damp in the overcab area so went up to check the roof seams found one area which looked suspicious so the area was resealed appeared to have solved the problem wrong the water still came in so with much trepidation I stripped out the ceiling panel that was wet found a rotten cross member so removed it and a portion of the insulation cleaned up the underside of the roof before replacing the timber only to find that the aluminum looked like a tea strainer checked rest of section before making repair . these holes didn't show from the outside of the roof used K Poxy K450 aluminum filler inside and out for roof repair and Sikaflex for everything else .just to say that unseen holes do appear in aluminum. Good luck in your venture 8)


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