# Urgent !! X250 Central locking malfunction



## Pudsey_Bear

Fob seems to work as do the dash and door buttons but no normal clunking noises.

All doors firmly closed, indicators flash as normal but doors still open from outside.

Volts are 12.1, fuse is 7.5 and working, all battery earths are new a couple of weeks ago.

As we're wild camping we have NO security as Citroen do not provide any mecanical means of locking from inside. 

The drivers door locks the drivers door only.

I'll try a garage in Aberdeen tomorrow, just worried about tonight. 


HELP.


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## camallison

The electronics control board has a thermal fuse link on it that "pops" on overload. Sometimes they just seem to do it for no real reason. It is really a garage job, but doesn't necessitate replacement, only heating the low-melting point solder, and holding the blade down while it sets. The control board can be mounted either under the dash, or in the lower door pillar - not sure where on your van.

Colin


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## Pudsey_Bear

Hmm, ta Colin, not sure it helps me as I don't know where it is or what it looks like.
Additional info.

I just tried the spare fob and the spare spare key but no change, fobs are new btw.


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## Glandwr

Unless you are near a city don't worry Kev. We live inthe heart of the country and haven't locked our doors at nights for 64 years  

Dick


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## dalspa

But, Dick, you are in Wales - a long way from Aberdeen :lol: 

DavidL


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## p-c

Hi
Can you put a strap or tie between the door puller shut things on each door?
p-c


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## Pudsey_Bear

I did have a old wavon strap but left it at home.

Also tried rebooting the system by removing the all the earth straps,   didn't work.

Ok for tonight though, I asked a football groundsman if he knew a local citroen garage and explained our problem, and he said to par I their car park, I've parked against a fence.

We e en have tap to fill the fresh tank


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## Pudsey_Bear

I got a couple of straps in Aberdeen just in case. 

The Citroen dealer went out with me and pressed all the same buttons I had already pressed a few dozen times and said he'd no idea.

I then went to a auto sparky, who said it might be something to do with the back door as it wouldn't unlock or open from outside, so I have a starting point for when I get back home. 

In the meantime I have detached the cable from the passenger door outside handle, (cow of a job but glad I decided to carry plenty of tools   )and a nice lump of wood stops the side from being opened for now.

I'll go to my local van scrappy and see if I can borrow a full lock set bar the drivers as that appears to work and is keyed so spensive to sort.

Right 4 ish weeks left of jollies can continue.

Thank you for all suggestions, but continue if anyone has had a similar problem.


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## Mrplodd

It is highly unlikely to be more than one lock having gone defective at the same time, so I wouldn't bother trying to source a set of them from a scrappy. It's doubtless an electrical issue and the only way to sort that out is with a multimeter and a few hours of time. 

You say there is the usual "clunk" but nothing locks? That clunk sounds like the solenoid's are working the door locks OK but the locks are not actually locking. Sounds daft but are ALL the doors fully shut? As often the central locking won't actually lock if it detects a door is not fully closed. Worth a check. Does the interior light still come on when you open a door? If not then I am aware of reading something somewhere about a blown interior light fuse affecting the cent locking!


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## dalspa

12.1 volts seems low - would this be enough for the solenoids to work fully? You have obviously re-started the engine numerous times (since the door locking issue), without any problem so unlikely to be battery - but it was just a thought.

DavidL


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## djp30

Mrplodd said:


> It is highly unlikely to be more than one lock having gone defective at the same time, so I wouldn't bother trying to source a set of them from a scrappy. It's doubtless an electrical issue and the only way to sort that out is with a multimeter and a few hours of time.
> 
> You say there is the usual "clunk" but nothing locks? That clunk sounds like the solenoid's are working the door locks OK but the locks are not actually locking. Sounds daft but are ALL the doors fully shut? As often the central locking won't actually lock if it detects a door is not fully closed. Worth a check. Does the interior light still come on when you open a door? If not then I am aware of reading something somewhere about a blown interior light fuse affecting the cent locking!


No it actually says "but NO normal clunking noise", so the solenoids are not working.


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## djp30

I can't see anywhere if it says you have tried locking the drivers door with the key. Does it?
If only the drivers door locks I would suspect a fault with the locking control unit OR a wiring fault in the drivers door (usually in the rubber boot at the A pillar).
If nothing happens at all when you try to lock it with the key then I suspect a fault with the drivers door lock.


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## Pudsey_Bear

Mrplodd said:


> It is highly unlikely to be more than one lock having gone defective at the same time, so I wouldn't bother trying to source a set of them from a scrappy. It's doubtless an electrical issue and the only way to sort that out is with a multimeter and a few hours of time.
> 
> You say there is the usual "clunk" but nothing locks? That clunk sounds like the solenoid's are working the door locks OK but the locks are not actually locking. Sounds daft but are ALL the doors fully shut? As often the central locking won't actually lock if it detects a door is not fully closed. Worth a check. Does the interior light still come on when you open a door? If not then I am aware of reading something somewhere about a blown interior light fuse affecting the cent locking!


There is no clunking from the centr locking at all only from tbe drivers door when using the key.

All the doors are securely closed inc sliding side door.

Also the prevaling volts are around 12.8. No ideA why I put 12.1, must have been a typo.
I like the interior light idea. I'll look into it when I get home but its secure for now with the exterior handles disconnected except the drivers door.


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## rayc

This is the description of the Ducato X250 Central Locking System:
"The central locking control unit M080 receives a direct battery power supply, at pin 1, via the line protected by fuse F36 located in the junction unit under the dashboard B002. It also receives, at pin 8, a reference coming from the C100 cabin earth.
The H090 command switch unit is connected, via pin 11, to pin 20 of connector B of the M001 Body Computer, to which it sends the signal relating to the locking / unlocking of the doors.
Once the door locking command has been received the Body Computer lights up, from pin 14 of connector B, the LED built into the relevant button on the H090 command switch unit (pin 12).
The H090 command switch unit is connected, via pin 4, to the C022 central dashboard earth.
The control panel on the driver''s front door H051 is connected, via pin 4, to pin 50 of connector C of the Body Computer M001, to which it sends the signal related to the locking/unlocking of the load compartment doors.
Having received the command, the Body Computer lights up the LED incorporated in the button for the control unit H051 (pin 2) from pin 15 of connector C.
The control panel on the driver''s front door H051 is connected, via pin 3, to the cab earth C100.
The M080 central locking command control unit controls, via pins 4 and 7, the N050 left front door geared motor (pins 6 and 7), and via pins 5 and 15, the N051 right front door geared motor (pins 7 and 6).
It also controls the geared motor for the right rear swing door N054 via pins 12 and 9 and the locking/unlocking of the right sliding door via pins 13 and 9 through the contact board D185 (pins 1 and 2 of connector A).
The Body Computer M001 sends the commands, from pins 4, 36 and 41 of connector C, for locking/unlocking the doors to the central locking control unit M080. Specifically: from pin 4 of connector C the M001 Body Computer is connected to pin 6 of the M080 central locking command control unit, to which it sends the (negative) command relating to the complete locking of the doors; from pin 36 of connector C the Body Computer M001 is connected to pin 14 of the central locking control unit M080 to which it sends the (negative) command to lock/unlock the doors; from pin 41 of connector C the Body Computer M001 is connected to pin 2 of the central locking control unit M080 to which it sends the (negative) command relating to the locking / unlocking of the load compartment.
The central locking control unit M080 receives the request to switch the dead lock device on, at pin 10, from the Body Computer M001 (pin 42 of connector C) controlling its activation via the following connections: from pin 3 of M080 to the left N050 and right N051 front door geared motors (pin 8); from pin 11 of M080 to the right swing door geared motor N054 (pin 8) and to the right sliding side door lock geared motor N167 (pin 8) via the contact board on the sliding side door D185.
The Body Computer M001 also receives the doors open signal, at pins 11, 34, 33 and 35 of connector C, for the left front door, right front door, right rear swing door and right sliding side door respectively.

The Body Computer also receives the signal relating to the activation of the inertia switch I050 (negative signal) at pin 23 of connector A.

The Body Computer sends the instrument panel E050 all the information useful for the management of the "doors open" warning light and the buzzer in the instrument panel via the B-CAN through pins 5 and 6 of connector B.
The Body Computer is connected at pin 43 of connector A to the central locking aerial P093.
Via pins 5 and 28 of connector A, and pins 5, 6, 18 and 19 of connector C, the M001 Body Computer manages the indicator lights flashing function.

DIRECTION INDICATORS / HAZARD WARNING LIGHTS 

The Body Computer M001 receives a direct battery power supply at pin 1 (protected by fuse F38 of B002) and 18 of the coupling with the junction unit under the dashboard B002; it also receives an ignition-controlled power supply (INT) at pin 9 of the same coupling.

The M001 Body Computer is also connected to the C022 central dashboard earth via pins 10 and 19 of connector B and via pin 20 of the junction with the B002 junction unit under the dashboard (output from pin 10 of connector B of the B002 junction unit)."

I know that will be daunting but M080 Central Door Locking Control Unit must be the place to start looking. I guess F36 is ok?
I have wiring diagrams which I can try to take a screen shot of but a bit unweildy. If I can be of any help let me know.


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## camallison

The M080 Central Door Locking Control Unit is the unit I was referring to when I mentioned the thermal fuse as a potential problem area.

Does it say where the M080 is located in the vehicle?

Colin


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## rayc

> camallison said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it say where the M080 is located in the vehicle?
> 
> Colin
> 
> 
> 
> The best I can find but I am not too certain. Under the dash somewhere?
Click to expand...


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## camallison

rayc said:


> camallison said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it say where the M080 is located in the vehicle?
> 
> Colin
> 
> 
> 
> The best I can find but I am not too certain. Under the dash somewhere?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> AH! much the same place as on Renault Traffics and Masters. It is just above foot level in the footwell area, centre of the cab, maybe covered with carpet. Quite often has an LED light on it too. Would need dismantling to get into the thermal fuse though.
> 
> Colin
Click to expand...


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## Pudsey_Bear

Thanks Ray and Colin, I'm not going to mess with it until we get home, so I'll try to make sense of it then or get someone who is more aware than I am.

Re getting parts from the scrappers, my intention was to get what I needed to try substitution with the agreement I could return unneeded parts as they mark them all.


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## Pudsey_Bear

OK, we're back, any further ideas about fixes, no rush as it is in the garage with a massive oil leak.


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