# External Rear Mirror Mounting - needs to be tightened - Help



## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

Hi, I managed to clout my LHS mirror on my '06 810 yesterday and this has loosened the mounting.

How do I remove the mirror frame from the mounting point, which is screwed onto the bodywork frame of the van, so I can get to the mounting screws and tighten them up again?

It looks like the mirror frame slides down onto a tapered base so should just slide back up again, but there might be some sort of lock that needs to be released first??

Any assistance much appreciated

Cheers

Dave


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## tonybvi (Jan 31, 2007)

I had a similar concern when I needed to replace the mirror on my Burstner 681 A class - fairly gentle tugging wouldn't shift the old mirror and I was worried that there may have been some form of locking mechanism. However I waited until the complete replacement mirror assembly arrived so I could have a good look at this before resorting to more violent measures! From the new assembly I could see that the complete mirror assembly is fixed to the mounting point on the bodywork by a simple tapered slide without any form of locking mechanism. A fairly hefty upwards thump with the side of my wrist enabled the old mirror assembly to simply slide off and the new one to slide on (not forgetting to unplug the electrical connector first!)
I don't know if this system is similar to yours but it may be worth a try (I wouldn't recommend taking a hammer to it though just in case it is locked on!!)
I hope this helps.
Tony


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

Thanks Tony

I've been looking on the Mekra website (they seem to make all the mirrors in the world...) and found some info but more to the point I haven't found a "special tool for disengaging the latch" - so I guess there isn't a latch to release.

I am quite surprised by that since it means that these quite expensive items can (in theory) :wink: be removed by a casual passerby

I have already tried the (gentle) hammer route but there could be some corrosion in there which has "frozen" the surfaces together (alloy to alloy)
so I have squirted some WD 40 in to see if that will help and will give it another tap tomorrow.

If I still get nowhere I will have to take it to an expert - I don't want to keep on trying and end up busting it completely.

Thanks Again

Dave


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## RichardnGill (Aug 31, 2006)

> I am quite surprised by that since it means that these quite expensive items can (in theory) be removed by a casual passerby


 The very large mirrors on Coachs are removed in the same way, in most cases every time they go through a wash.

They can cost well over £1k each

Richard...


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

*Mirror Mounting*

Thanks Richard

I am now considering fitting some sort of grub screw to lock the two halves of the wedge mounting in place to prevent "casual removal"

Mind you - I haven't got it apart yet... :wink:

Cheers

Dave


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

Success !!  

Thanks for giving me the confidence to just wallop it.

I used a wooden mallet to hit upwards and held a lump hammer on top of the "wedge" to take the strain off the (loose) mounting screws.

Third hit and up it popped. :wink: 

I removed all 4 screws (Torx) and it looks like this has happened before because the wood panel that the screws are meant to bite into (behind the outer skin) is a bit spongy feeling.

I used a couple of rawlplugs for now and the mirror is back on and good and tight but will need some sealant behind it and possibly a new timber block on the inside too.

A job for the weekend I think - along with the first MOT for the Harley.

All I need now is some decent weather...

Cheers

Dave (Happy Bunny)


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## HarleyDave (Jul 1, 2007)

*Mirror update*

Mirror is now back on with sealant behind the mounting wedge and all done up nice and tight.

While I had it off I was able to repair the wiring for the adjustment and heater which had suffered as a result of the initial incident. (and had been nipped from a previous one by the looks of it)

I had to take down some of the forward bed screening in the corner (easy to do, prise off the little plastic caps and unscrew the torx screws with their washers) to gain access to the piece of carpeted board which trims the front corner.

This is held on with 2 screws and with careful manoeuvring I was able to take that out from behind the bed mechanism to get access to the wiring which helpfully is connected with Lucar (spade) terminals.

I had to cut them off to get the cable out completely but that's easy enough to re-terminate and there's plenty slack on the wire.

Anyway, that is all OK now (two broken wires) and I found the Mekra website was helpful for wiring info and also how to remove the glass (push in at bottom and slide upwards) which I seem to remember was asked on here (or somewhere) previously but was never answered.

Next job is to solve the mystery of the dinette speakers that do not work.

Cheers

Dave


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