# Advice for Warmest Motorhome/Winterised for a Wouldbe Motorh



## nunkaboy (Jan 1, 2008)

I am retired now and looking to buy a secondhand Motorhome.I,ve Caravanned before but nowe in my older state am worried about being Cold. What do other members feel i should look for in a Motorhome. I will be travelling in Winter in France Spain and Germany, Any advice would be welcomed


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## cabby (May 14, 2005)

You will need a winterised van, this means that it will have the water tanks inboard rather tham slung underneath, modern ones now have a double floor.and a very good heating system.look at the german Hymer and french models to see what is meant.double glazed windows.it really all depends on how big you need and what limit you have in your wallet.

cabby


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

*Re: Advice for Warmest Motorhome/Winterised for a Wouldbe Mo*



nunkaboy said:


> I am retired now and looking to buy a secondhand Motorhome.I,ve Caravanned before but nowe in my older state am worried about being Cold. What do other members feel i should look for in a Motorhome. I will be travelling in Winter in France Spain and Germany, Any advice would be welcomed


Married or Single? 

Married = Double glazing and a blocked off cab so you don't get nagged. :director:

Single = Double fixed rear bed and a 25 year old nubile young lady! :hippy2:


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## Grizzly (May 9, 2005)

Definately winterised and double glazed but also make sure you buy the proper insulated external screen covers. They make a world of difference. 

If you feel the cab area is colder than the rest of the van -even with insulated screens up ( NB the windscreen is only single glazed) then a thick curtain or travel rug hung from the luton lip makes a lot of difference.

I'd also go for blown air heating rather than a single source heater. It makes the place toasty warm and avoids the phenomenon of cold feet and hot head !

G


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## geraldandannie (Jun 4, 2006)

Some good advice already. Use the forum search facility for "winterised" or something like - there's a load of posts already on this subject.

There are many motorhomes available which are suitable for winter use. What sort of touring will you be doing? Cruising through France on the way to Spain is different to spending some weeks high up in the Alps or the Pyranees.

It would also be good to give us some idea of your budget for more specific advice.

Gerald


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## motoroamin (May 22, 2006)

All good advice here, and in my experience the very best heating system for winter use is the Alde wet system which works in a similar way to a domestic heating, with (antifreeze protected) hot water circulating through radiators.

Very even warmth, not dry and very quiet. Found mainly on upmarket continental models.


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## Scotjimland (May 23, 2005)

Good advice so far, in addition, for winter use in sub zero temperatures consider a van with a fixed bed, buy a good quality goose down winter duvet and an electric blanket..this can be left on low setting all day, will keep you warm in the severest of cold.. with or without the nubile young lady.. :wink:


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

You want one of these
1.5ml alloy bonded to 4/5ml ply bonded to 45ml styrofoam bonded to 1.5ml alloy on all sides roof and floor with an extra ply to floor and just for good measure there is about 1.5 inches of some kind of sponge from the cab to the back axle covered in underseal!!!!!!!!!!! 
it is very warm 
ambulance!!!!!!!
terry


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## ruthiebabe (Aug 16, 2005)

In a nutshell, avoid a British van. Continental, and a quality one at that, albeit secondhand. 

Best of all A-class as a coachbuilt loses much heat via cab unless you seal it off very well.

Look for the specification re insulation thickness. 

Ideal is a double floor with all pipes and services inside, and at very least look for where pipes and tanks are located and how protected and heated. Gold standard is Alde heating. Blown air is okay but not a single heater, whatever you do.

Makes to look for are the more upmarket german, italian and french makes. 

HTH Ruth


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## richs2000 (Jul 1, 2007)

i can recommend an electric blanket, made the world of difference for us a couple of weeks ago in Chamonix at -12 oC outside. doesn't use much electric either so you can still have a 2000W fan heater going (assuming you have 10amp hookup, wouldn't leave it on all night though)

rich


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*Buy British*



ruthiebabe said:


> In a nutshell, avoid a British van. Continental, and a quality one at that, albeit secondhand.
> 
> Best of all A-class as a coachbuilt loses much heat via cab unless you seal it off very well.
> 
> ...


Hi

I am not so sure about the "avoid a British van", Ruth.

My van is British and I am certain it will hold it's own weather/cold/winter wise against any C class Hymer/Dethleffs and so on.

Admittedly, the Kontiki and Bessacarr 700 series are (as far as I know) the only British vans to proudly display the Grade 3 insulation banner.

I have no doubts at all about the heating and insulation quality of this van - and I choose this van against a Burstner Argos or a Dethleffs A7871-2.

Russell

As a foot note, I will add that my Compass motorhome was warm enough inside in winter, but I did have a bit of trouble with frozen waste pipes etc. This could however have been avoided with a bit of fore thought.


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## ruthiebabe (Aug 16, 2005)

Hi Russell,

I knew I'd get into trouble for that one but I do stand by it as a useful generalisation for omeone looking to buy a van for that purpose especially if limited to the secondhand market. The better continental makes were streets ahead in winterising pipes, tanks, dump valves, using double floors, insulation thickness etc and of course an a-class illminates the heat loss of a cab. fact.

I do concede that the newer (to 2 years old or thereabouts) top-end Swift/Bessacarrs like your own have made a much better stab at it but they still have some way to go to match a similar priced german,say. But they are probably the best if you want British for design reasons, and very nice they are too.

Regards, Ruth


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*British/German*



ruthiebabe said:


> Hi Russell,
> 
> I knew I'd get into trouble for that one but I do stand by it as a useful generalisation for omeone looking to buy a van for that purpose especially if limited to the secondhand market. The better continental makes were streets ahead in winterising pipes, tanks, dump valves, using double floors, insulation thickness etc and of course an a-class illminates the heat loss of a cab. fact.
> 
> ...


Get into trouble - don't be daft!

I would like to ask though why the A class (Hymer, Carthago, Burtstner etc) elliminate heat loss from the cab? This is something else I really looked into.

I know that some of the Euramobil A class models have double glazed side screens in the cab area, but sure the massive windscreen is asking for heat loss? The Burstner 821 I looked at last year was certainly not double glazed around the cab area. No experience of Hymer A class etc etc

It goes without saying that the cab area in this van is colder than elsewhere - even with silver covers on the outside, but is an A class really free from this cold spot? If it is, I'll have one!

Russell


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## ruthiebabe (Aug 16, 2005)

Well, being constructed from floor up, the walls roof etc continue the same insulation standards as the rest of the motorhome as opposed to a coachbuilt's cab which is of course the cab for a delivery van with no extra insulation at all. Sure, an A-class has a large windscreen. No windscreen is double glazed, and so in the case of an A-class one needs to ensure a good thermal blind is used (many have Remis concertina blinds now and in the Alps you'd use a silverscreen too) . But the windscreen (and possibly side windows)is the only weakspot heat wise. The better A-classes even now have double glazing even on the side driver and passenger windows, so it really is heaps better than a coachbuilt up front.


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*A class*

Hi

Thanks for the good info, Ruth.

Russell

PS, Peter (Swift), can you cobble together an A class please?


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## SwiftGroup (Jun 27, 2007)

*Re: A class*



Rapide561 said:


> Hi
> 
> Thanks for the good info, Ruth.
> 
> ...


Are you prepared to pay the price? The average Motorhomer wants to buy a motorhome in the 25K to 40K price range and very few of our customers want to go into -15c plus temperatures.Certainly an A class has an advantage but the drop in resale value is large which is why you see them highly discounted new! If my customers tell me what they want that we do not do already please tell me?Peter.


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Hi Ruth,most of the heat loss will be from roof vents followed by that great big screen,probably as much as 60% and from what I have seen remis blinds do not help at all more for privacy
terry


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

*Re: A class*



SwiftGroup said:


> Rapide561 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi
> ...


Peter buy at the discount and do what car makers do rebage :lol: :lol: 
terry


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## Rapide561 (Oct 1, 2005)

*A class*

The down side to an A class is possibly driving in the sun. I know most of us have cab air con, but the Luton is a very good sun visor!

Russell


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## DABurleigh (May 9, 2005)

"If my customers tell me what they want that we do not do already please tell me?"

Peter,

This thread refers:
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-350012.html#350012
but I'd suggest similar to what I anticipate your Oakmont is, but:

1) layout/overall length/ A-class like the Concorde Charisma 841L:
http://www.southdownsmotorcaravans.co.uk/2008concorde/2008charisma/layouts.html
2) but with the island queen bed of the 841M,
3) maximise sofa lengths longer than those or your Oakmont's by trimming bedroom length and bathroom length,
4) build quality of my Murvi (or indeed the Concorde),
5) vary price to suit markets by options/luxuries/toys, NOT by sacrificing ANY of the above.

You will see from my MHF thread above that I think it would be an increasing popular offering, and more importantly for you fill a market gap (which still seems to me amazing).

Dave


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## Sundial (May 11, 2005)

*Heat retaining mats*

One little item we have found to be a real bonus in the coldest weather is a "silver screen mat" for the main rooflight. We had one made up by Taylormade for very little money - keeps the light out too making for better sleep in the summer.

Sundial


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## wobby (May 1, 2005)

I would agree with Ruth that if you can, go for an A class if possible with double glazed cab windows. However I think a good quality silver screen is the most important piece of kit as it really does make a huge difference. A wet system is also by far the best as you get a more even temp throughout the van, ours even has hot water heating around the fixed rear bed.

Wobby


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## ruthiebabe (Aug 16, 2005)

Agree A-Classes cost more, if you don't need one, stick to a coachbuilt. Nowt wrong with buying what you need. But in response too the original question, it is a fair point about construction and insulation. 

A-class windscreens do have a few disadvantages as well as advantages (great vision and great views on site!) they can get hot in summer and they cost more to replace. I still would not go back to a coachbuilt now though, despite this and nor would most owners I talk to.

Re heat loss from roof lights- you will always have to bargain for that - A-class or coachbuilt, no difference.

I have taken a very well winterised coachbuilt to -25/-30 and also an A-class. The difference is really noticeable - it was a big improvement. Hvaing said that it is entirely possible to be very comfortable and not freeze up in a coachbuilt if you prepare well, so do not whatever you do be put off skiing or having other fun in the snow! if that is what you own. Just read all the great advice on here and see Batch's new website.

Have fun!


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