# Headlights - pig of a job!



## peejay

I've just finished adjusting the headlights for continental use on my B504. By 'eck, wouldn't want to do that too often, it does help if you're double jointed and are good at doing things by 'feel' rather than vision and have the patience of a saint (I don't) after dropping the screwdriver for the tenth time..

One thing that I did realise which hasn't been mentioned in any of the other hymer 'headlight adjustment' posts (I think) is that you have to remove the top screw entirely otherwise the light unit won't swivel into the other position.
So, to recap, I found it best to remove the top screw completely first, then undo the other two screws about 10 turns and then it will swivel into position.
The photo below should show the top screw and the two seperate holes for each position, hence the reason you need to remove it completely.
What it doesn't show is that I took the photo by shoving the camera up into the wing recess and only those who have done the job will know what a pig of a task it is.
Vorsprung durch Technik - I think not!










pete


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## eddied

Ciao,
sounds awfully complicated. Why not just stick beam benders on? Or am I missing something?
saluti,
eddied


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## daichi

thanks for the reminder peejay!!, I still have to adjust mine back before the MOT on tuesday. I threw that top screw away, it makes the job a bit easier, but not much mind!!


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## lecky7

*Hymer headlights*

Yes we know the difficulty's what we have done is remove both inner mudguards, & cut holes at the front of each to create inspection panels, then once done, it is easy to adjust headlights & to change any bulbs if they blow, bit longwinded I admit, but once done, thats it--- Mike W


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## Minerva

It was just as awkward when doing it on my Merc Rapido I had 3years ago, but it is a complete job when done instead of sticking a bit of tape on, that amounts to a job 1/2 done, struggle on you lucky people who are fortunate to have the xenon adjustable headlights . 

Bill


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## MHv2

Pete – many thanks for the instructions and especially the picture. I’ve read several explanations but none so clear as this with the picture. I even had a grope around but because I wasn’t sure, decided to just tape out half of the headlight in the hope that in the very unlikely event that I found myself driving in the dark, I wouldn’t be blinding anyone.

I’ll have a go shortly - why on earth Hymer or the accessory boys haven’t come up with a device for adjusting them from within the cab escapes me.


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## androidGB

As I posted in an earlier thread, on my 820 there was an easier way, But it seems as though Hymer in their wisdom did not make this method available on many models

See HERE

Andrew


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## peejay

The only reservations I have for the future is damaging the heads of the screws, I slipped a couple of times because of the awkward angle, so i'm thinking that over time the screw heads are gradually going to get rounded off. 
I like lecky7's idea of inspection panels for the long term, with more access from behind, you could get more purchase on the screwdriver and would be less likely to damage the screw heads.

Andrew, I missed your post, I only searched in the Hymer forum.

pete


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## babyrhino

What you need is a very small person to climb inside the engine compartment and get better access to the screws! 

My ever suffering partner Di sorted ours - couldn't understand why she got a bit upset when I told her she had disturbed the brake fluid reservoir and caused a leak!

Has anyone else noticed how poor the dipped beam headlight power is? full beam is great but dipped may as well almost not exist.

Brian


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## Jean-Luc

My Rapido has the same type of units and are real knuckle busters to adjust. I have visited a number of fixing suppliers to try and get hex head or allen key head screws to replace the philips head ones, I reckon the job would be really easy if a socket or allen key could be used. I reckon that after changing mine back and forth five or six times already the original screws only have a limited life left before a screwdriver will fail to grip. If anyone can source replacement screws and gets a half a dozen for me I will gladly reimburse them and throw in the price of a couple of pints.
Colin


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## Braesman

*Hymer headlights*

Removing the inner wheelarch covers makes the job possible, I lack the arms of an oran utang and extending fingers to do it any other way. I did think about fitting inspection hatches as lecky7 suggests, but decided that having once got them to dip for driving on the left I just wouldn't bother ever doing it again. 
Of course, if a bulb blows then it's back to the start. It does make a nonsense of having to carry a spare set of bulbs on the Continent. A quick roadside fix isn't really an option.


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## gandj

Get one of those bendy screwdrivers - then it is a 10 minute job. Like Peejay I struggled forever first time and then never dare touch it for 3 years until MOT loomed. . . The guy who invented the bendy screwdriver should be given the Nobel Prize for Good Idea.
Graham


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## smiler

*headlights*

Got my headlights done at Essandjay of Poole simply turn the housing for continental use turn them back for MOT


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## 108777

When I was getting ready for a trip over the 'ditch' recently in my not long bought, 2nd hand imported Hymer, I was about to get beam benders to fit when I noticed that it already had some stuck on. On checking with the dealer/importer it transpired that in order to get the van through the MOT, he had just stuck continental to UK beam benders on ie all I had to do was rip them off and I was ready for the continent.
I was a bit surprised that it had passed the MOT set up like this and will be interested to see if it will be as successful on its next MOT, wherever I get it examined. (The cynic in me thinks otherwise ! :wink: )

Mike


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## JockandRita

*Re: headlights*



smiler said:


> Got my headlights done at Essandjay of Poole simply turn the housing for continental use turn them back for MOT


Hi all,

The problem is, that it's not that simple Smiler.

Camper UK realigned mine for the recent MOT, however, when it came to the test, the RH lamp was too low, and wouldn't adjust from the cab control.
Upon investigation with the wheel arch cover off, it would appear that the adjusting motor for that lamp has become dislodged. It appears to be spring loaded.

Does anyone know how to reset it for height adjustment. The lamp is a little bit loose as a result now.

Cheers,

Jock.


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## r6demon

please note for IDIOTS like me, its NOT the two long silver screws at the top of the picture  

i have just spent and hour undoing these on both sides only to realise they are the adjusters  

have put it back together and going off to SULK :evil: :evil: :evil:


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## grumpyman

My Autocruise is also fitted with this stupid system just hope it aint dark when i drive and my lights are to small for the stick ons.


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## Roger7webster

I have retapped the holes 3/16" whit and fitted socket head screws (Allen key type) 
Can now change the beam in only a few mins 
Selected this size as it was the nearest I could find to match the existing self tappers 
Hope this helps


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## r6demon

Thank you! Went out and bought lens covers yesterday!


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Roger7webster, I was doing mine for the umpteen time last Sunday in Calais as I waited for the ferry back and one of the screws is beginning to give up the ghost and getting difficult to stop the screwdriver slipping. I like your idea about re-tapping and fitting a socket or allen key type headed screw, also I read somewhere about filing off the locating lugs, it means that the units can be adjusted with only a slight slackening of the screws in the elongated holes, know anything about that.
Do you know that earlier versions of the unit had a simple adjusting lever, progress!!!!

Colin


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## SpeedyDux

Good grief, what a palaver.

On the original Mk1 Renault 5 each headlight had a little lever to turn to change the dip pattern from left to right. So simple; a 30 second job before getting off the ferry - why don't all cars and vans have this? :?: 


SD


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## Jean-Luc

Perhaps this is one for the lads in Brussels, A standards spec requiring headlights to be adjustable between LHDing and RHDing. 
Or perhaps we should all be driving in the right, starting with HGV's on a Monday :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## nickkdx

Hi, Tried to take my light out to see what spare bulb I needed, struggled to get top 2 screws out but still wouldn't come free, is there a hidden screw I can't see.
How much do the lights need to be rotated.
Off to France next in 9 days time


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## peejay

Hi Nick;

There are 3 screws to each unit.

Imagine a clock - One at the top at 12 o/c and 2 others at about twenty to and the other at twenty past if that makes sense.

The top one has to be removed completely and the bottom two need to be undone sufficiently to enable it to be twisted over the lug at the bottom.

This recent post might help as well...

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-643113.html#643113

Pete


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Nickkdx this is the reply I got from Hella
"These lamps are relatively simple to convert from UK dip to continental
dip. You will need to remove the dip beam light units from the vehicle.
If you have a four headlamp system this will be the outer light unit on
each side.

On the back of each lamp you will see three screws. Two in slotted
holes and one in a circular hole with an unused hole next to it.
Undo the two screws in the slotted holes slightly and remove screw from
the circular hole fully.
Now twist the light unit so the screws in the slotted holes are at the
other end of each slot and the unused circular hole now lines up to the
hole in the front body of the light.
Replace and tighten all three screws removed.
To convert it back to UK dip reverse the process."

Of course, depending on the position of the units it may not be necessary to remove them from the vehicle, on my Rapido I can change them in situ.

Colin


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Peejay, ever thought about removing the lug at the bottom, would it make changing the units over easier. If there is nothing else holding the units in place then only slightly slackening the screws, maybe a turn or so, might be enough to adjust them.
Colin


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## peejay

Jean-Luc said:


> Hi Peejay, ever thought about removing the lug at the bottom, would it make changing the units over easier. If there is nothing else holding the units in place then only slightly slackening the screws, maybe a turn or so, might be enough to adjust them.
> Colin


Hi Colin, I keep getting confused between you and the other JeanLuc (Phillip) :? :lol:

I did think about removing the lugs while the units were out but the material (bakalite?) looks very fragile, I wasn't sure it would crack if I tried to cut it so left them on.
On mine i've had 8mm nuts brazed to the top of the screws and its now a 5 minute job with a flexi shaft, 8mm socket and a screwdriver. 

Pete


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## JeanLuc

[Quote Peejay]: Hi Colin, I keep getting confused between you and the other JeanLuc (Philip) [end quote]

I am the one without a hyphen. When I registered as a relative newbie, the system did not reveal that there was an almost identical nom-de-poste (obviously, computers aren't that clever). I did wonder whether I should change it, but I have not explored the technicalities of doing it.

Philip


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Philip and Pete, I'm Jean-Luc, as suggested by my son, because I have a haircut like Patrick Stewart !! and the Starship Enterprise, well not quite, is parked outside the door ready to go where no man has gone before, well not quite either. See here

I'm outa here at warp nine :lol: :lol:

PS apologies to all for going off topic.


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## peejay

Hmmm...

I'm thinking of changing my nickname to Jean.Luc just for the hell of it 8) 

Pete


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## JeanLuc

Mine came from a nick-name used by work colleagues some years ago. Something to do with my lack of thatch and a slightly hawkish nose. I had thought of using the avatar below, but my (adult) daughter and wife would never forgive me. (Yes the head really is me, but photoshopped to protect the innocent - or should that be guilty?) I had a go at turning the Hymer into Enterprise, but my Photoshop skills were not up to it.

Philip


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## owl129

*help!*

Hi
veh just failed its MOT because the lights are dipping the wrong way, since I have never used the veh in the dark and having a MOT from the dealer when I purchased the veh(having been given a valid MOT from the dealer, it makes me wonder what else they did not check before issuing the MOT) I did not think about it. Now it seems (see picture) there is a xenon extra fitted to the light system, so the simple job(in a manor of speaking) has become more complicated, does anybody know how to change the low beem lights to dip in the correct way for UK driving, with the set up as per the picture

many thanks

Paul


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## peejay

Hi Paul;

Make sure you read all of this thread, look at my photo on the first post, it is very similar to your set up.
From your photo, it looks to me like they are alreay set up for UK roads, ie, the unit is fully twisted to the right.
Perhaps someone has altered the other settings/screws around the unit?

pete


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## Jean-Luc

Hi owl129, great pick of the assembly. 
Here's what to do, first remove the screw at 11 o'clock in the picture ( notice there are two distinct holes, one of which is currently used, more later), next loosen the screws at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock as you look at your pic DO NOT remove these screws completely, these are securing the brown part of the assembly through elongated holes, now rotate the brown assembly to the other end of the elongated holes, it is necessary to slacken these two screws only sufficiently to allow the assembly to 'ride over' a locating lug at the bottom. You should now see that the 'other' hole at 11 o'clock on the brown assembly has aligned with the screw hole at 11 o'clock, re insert that screw and tighten, finally re-tighten the screws at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock.
Your dip direction has now been changed to the 'other' side.

Colin


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Paul, note my instructions for future reference but as Pete says your units (well at least the one in the picture) appears to be currently adjusted to left hand dip, well spotted Pete hadn't noticed myself  .
Looking at the two separate holes at the top, if the screw is in the left one then the dip is set to left and , obviously, if it's in the right then the dip is to the right :lol: 
Colin


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## lgbzone

peejay said:


> I've just finished adjusting the headlights for continental use on my B504. By 'eck, wouldn't want to do that too often, it does help if you're double jointed and are good at doing things by 'feel' rather than vision and have the patience of a saint (I don't) after dropping the screwdriver for the tenth time..
> 
> One thing that I did realise which hasn't been mentioned in any of the other hymer 'headlight adjustment' posts (I think) is that you have to remove the top screw entirely otherwise the light unit won't swivel into the other position.
> So, to recap, I found it best to remove the top screw completely first, then undo the other two screws about 10 turns and then it will swivel into position.
> The photo below should show the top screw and the two seperate holes for each position, hence the reason you need to remove it completely.
> What it doesn't show is that I took the photo by shoving the camera up into the wing recess and only those who have done the job will know what a pig of a task it is.
> Vorsprung durch Technik - I think not!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pete


Hi

looking at the photo, if you took the screws out one at a time, would there be enough room to spot weld a small wing nut on the head, preferably if the head of the screw would snugly fit into the threaded body area of the wing nut and be spot welded on the top. just a thought.

Lee


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## peejay

lgbzone said:


> Hi
> looking at the photo, if you took the screws out one at a time, would there be enough room to spot weld a small wing nut on the head, preferably if the head of the screw would snugly fit into the threaded body area of the wing nut and be spot welded on the top. just a thought.
> 
> Lee


Hi Lee,

I have actually done something very similar, here's an extract from a previuos post of mine....

_"I searched high and low but couldn't find any suitable replacement screws with either a torx head or an 8mm socket head. 
An industrious pal has brazed some 8mm nuts onto the top of all the screws and he also made up a flexible shaft with an 8mm socket attached to the end. This then attaches to a stubby ratchet screwdriver and its now an easy 5 minute job to convert the lights from lhd to rhd so I'm well chuffed with that one." 
_

Pete


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## Jean-Luc

My thoughts are to braze a cross head screwdriver bit onto each screw, it would then be a matter of using a 6.5mm socket, spanner or stubby screwdriver (of the interchangeable bit type) to work the screws.
There must be a suitable superglue available to make the job a DIY for those of us without access to a person with brazing skills !!

Colin


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## lgbzone

Hi Pete

sorry, it had been a really busy weekend and i missed the previous post completely  

Lee


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## owl129

*help!*



peejay said:


> Hi Paul;
> 
> Make sure you read all of this thread, look at my photo on the first post, it is very similar to your set up.
> From your photo, it looks to me like they are alreay set up for UK roads, ie, the unit is fully twisted to the right.
> Perhaps someone has altered the other settings/screws around the unit?
> 
> pete


Hi all
thanks for the info, however when looking at the screw holes, the hole to the right of each posn is much bigger than the one on the left in each case so just twisting it to the left would cause the unit to fall off.
The current way the brown/red part of the unit is fixed in the picture is causing the beam to be directed right, I guess hopefully that there is an onther adjustment some where

many thanks again

Paul


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## Jean-Luc

Hi Paul, Very interestingly, if you look at the pic on peejay's origional post (2008-06-05) it can be seen that your unit is in fact different where the bulb is fitted and also the configuration where the three screws are fitted. I see what you mean about the assembly coming apart on yours if rotated. It looks like yours might be non adjustable.
I originality got very helpful advice from
Nancy Abnett
Hella UK Ltd
Technical Department
Wildmere Industrial Estate, Banbury, Oxon
OX16 3JU. United Kingdom
Telephone: 00 44 (0)1295 225400
[email protected]

That was back in May 2006 so not sure if Nancy would be still there but Hella Tech. Dept. should be. I suggest you contact them about your dilemma.

Best of luck
Colin


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## r6demon

nickkdx said:


> Hi, Tried to take my light out to see what spare bulb I needed, struggled to get top 2 screws out but still wouldn't come free, is there a hidden screw I can't see.
> How much do the lights need to be rotated.
> Off to France next in 9 days time


you do NOT need to remove the screws to change or check the bulb! you only do this to convert from LHD to RHD or visa versa!  the back of the headlight is a cap turn anticlockwise 1/4 of a turn and it comes off, there is then a sprong clip that you need to pinch together and the bulb comes out.

only way I could do this was to lie under the vehicle and reach up with my right arm and do by feel


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## Goldwinger

*Headlights pig of a job*

Did mine last week offside was quite easy however the nearside is nearly impossible to get the last screw out.

As we removed each screw we mig welded a hexagon screw driver bit cutting the end off leaving about inch to weld onto the screw allowing either a flexible drive to fit or a flexible screw driver that has interchangeable heads, (hope thats clear.

It is well worth the hard work and satisfaction of beating the problem.
Tried my best to attach pic could not resize sorry.


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## owl129

*Re: help!*



owl129 said:


> peejay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Paul;
> 
> Make sure you read all of this thread, look at my photo on the first post, it is very similar to your set up.
> From your photo, it looks to me like they are alreay set up for UK roads, ie, the unit is fully twisted to the right.
> Perhaps someone has altered the other settings/screws around the unit?
> 
> pete
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all
> thanks for the info, however when looking at the screw holes, the hole to the right of each posn is much bigger than the one on the left in each case so just twisting it to the left would cause the unit to fall off.
> The current way the brown/red part of the unit is fixed in the picture is causing the beam to be directed right, I guess hopefully that there is an onther adjustment some where
> 
> many thanks again
> 
> Paul
Click to expand...

Hi just to close this if the rear is taken off(the black bit with the electric flash) there is a little lever to flip across which just about allows the veh to pass the MOT. Still a pig of a job

regards

Paul


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## 98794

I have the round recessed type on my 1998 S640. I had to get mine changed to UK spec when I imported it from germany 3 years ago. Peter Hambiltons near Preston Lancs did them for me they charged me £120 fixed price took them out cut off a tab or flange and now I just twist them to left or right when I go abroad or return. They removed the front bumper to get at them took two of them an hour to do.


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## Bob45

*Headlights pig of a job*

Peter Hambilton did the same job on mine when I imported it last year.
The whole lamp unit turns left or right and saves messing about with tape and should pass the MOT easily.
Bob45


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## Jean-Luc

Finally got my screws modified. A friend who is handy with a welder has welded a screwdriver bit on to each one. It is now only a few seconds job to loosen each screw by slipping a stubby ratchet screwdriver onto each one as all are now easily visible. 
I also cut off the locating lugs, which was surprisingly easy with a junior hacksaw, the material is a very easily cut alloy.
Adjusting dip direction is now so simple and takes less than a minute per side.
See photos below.


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