# Removing/Resealing window on N+B Arto69GL(2003)



## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

I have posted about this problem and its solution before, but did not get much response, so I am now posting it more widely on several forums.
I have a N+B Arto 69GL (2003). The rear window-frame has sprung away from the bodywork, allowing a small leak. I have temporarily taped-over the gap.


I know that just sticking ‘gunk’ in the gap is no solution, mainly from dealing with similar problems with my boat. The correct solution is to remove the whole frame, clean off the area on the bodywork and frame and reseal the window with Sikaflex and secure it again. 


I am happy to undertake this myself if I have a bit more information on how it was built-in originally, so that is where I am seeking help.


I have not yet disturbed the wall-lining looking for fixings. Can anyone provide information on what fixings were used and does one need access to both outside and inside of the fixings – on my boat they were two-part(male/female) threaded ‘screws/bolts’ – sorry do not know proper name. Those were a two-man job to remove replace. This was because the frame had an inside and outside part.

I imagine that the MH equivalent is probably a single part just inserted and secured in the cut-out.


Is it possible that there are no fixings and that an adhesive was used to secure it?


If only an adhesive were used it should be simple enough to cut around the old adhesive and prise out the whole frame, clean off and use a good Sikaflex adhesive to put it back. 

Would it be better to take the window out of the frame in order to clamp the frame to the bodywork while the adhesive is curing?


If I am barking up the wrong tree(s) please set me on the right track.


Thanks in advance for any help.


Geoff


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## Mrplodd (Mar 4, 2008)

I THINK you will find that the frames are "pushed in" from the outside (so there is a lip that can mastic applied to it so there is an external waterproof seal) and then screwed "sideways" into the bodywork. If you open the window you should then be able to see the head of the fixing screws on either side going into the bodywork. Difficult to explain but they are not fixed from the outside or the inside.

Andy


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## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

Mrplodd said:


> I THINK you will find that the frames are "pushed in" from the outside (so there is a lip that can mastic applied to it so there is an external waterproof seal) and then screwed "sideways" into the bodywork. If you open the window you should then be able to see the head of the fixing screws on either side going into the bodywork. Difficult to explain but they are not fixed from the outside or the inside.
> 
> Andy


Andy

Thanks - had not thought of that possiblity, because of my boat window experience.

Since our 'walls' are aluminium sandwich though I wonder how they would get a good fixing into the middle - maybe there is the problem.

Maybe an N+B owner will respond - I have put it on the N+B forum but did that before.

Geoff


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Any chance of an internal and external picture of the window frame set up Geoff ?

Whilst not N&B my outer frame is clamped in place by screws on the inner frame, the outer frame has sealant applied but it also has a rubber seal that seals against the outer wall.

Terry


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Geoff perhaps PM to val33 could bare fruit, remember he did the Arto slide out conversion.
@val33

Terry


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## LT Man (Nov 11, 2016)

Yours may not be the same but here is how i did mine

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/185-bodywork-trim/218369-how-i-fix-my-leaking-windows.html

Hope it helps

LT man


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## Gretchibald (Jul 22, 2011)

nicholsong;
I have a N+B Arto 69GL (2003). The rear window-frame has sprung away from the bodywork
Geoff[/QUOTE said:


> You're scaring me , any idea why that happened , did you bump the van or something.?


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Which make of window is it Geoff please, should be on the pane in a corner.


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## eurajohn (May 9, 2005)

Do you have a cosmetic surround inside the van? 
Most motorhome windows utilise the frame of the window as a base to screw in to and a clip arrangement that clamps over the inner wall of the van and pulls the sandwich together.

If this is the case then removing the interior trim will reveal the fixings, often to be found in countersunk holes covered with small push in plastic plugs.

.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

If it's a Seitz window S4 or S5 this is basically all there is too it Geoff, only real difference is the S5 has concertina blind instead of a roller blind, and the S4 has plugs for the screws, and the S5 has a perforated strip, the S4 plugs are pretty much sacrificial and readily available, the S5 strips are a snap in/out affair, but very fragile on the older ones.


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## Sundial (May 11, 2005)

Our windows are Seitz. You remove the screws from the inside, remove inner frame, push remaining frame to the outside .... ensure someone is outside to catch it. 

We replaced the seal with a new one.... was not enough ... obviously the sides have flexed over time.

We replaced the window, together with new seal, then used clear sealant round the outside rim. Have not had a leak since!

Easy job!

Sundial


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## nicholsong (May 26, 2009)

*Interim Report

*Gentlemen thanks for all inputs.

So far I have got to the stage of pulling off the inner trim and taking some photos.

I have obviously mistaken my reading of the Seitz model number, because when I went to Leisure Spares website where they give photo of one it is wrongt. I need to re-read it tomorrow, But my guess is it is a S5.

From the photo Martin(Funflair) posted elsewhere, mine is not the same, nor is it similar to the ones in the links provided.

P.S. I am not needing help with cleaning and re-sealing - done that before, only with the mechanics of researching the fixing method and releasing the window frame - there seem to be lots of screws some of which are probably holding the blind mechanisms togeher but some are the frame fixings - need to know which.

Alan, when I said 'sprung' I do not mean a big gap, only that a dribble of water came in so there must be some small gap - maybe just 'perished/dried out' sealant. Anyway as you would know window has to come out, cleaned and resealed.

Geoff


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## Gretchibald (Jul 22, 2011)

nicholsong said:


> *Interim Report
> 
> Alan, when I said 'sprung' I do not mean a big gap, only that a dribble of water came in so there must be some small gap - maybe just 'perished/dried out' sealant. Anyway as you would know window has to come out, cleaned and resealed.
> 
> Geoff*


*

Phew that's a relief as since we have the same van it's likely that whatever faults develop in yours will also be in mine. 
Actually Geoff about 3 years ago after a Winter I noticed a little damp in the fabric at the btm corner of that window and one of the side windows. You're probably right in doing a 'proper' job but I just went around the outside with some CT1 sealant , no problem since.

Alan*


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

Having replaced two windows and 2 roof lights in my Hymer. They all are "pulled in" from the inside by a clamping/screw mechanism. The window being offered up from the outside with a mastic/tape applied to the inside of a flange. As the screws are tighten the sealing agent is squeezed to form the seal. Having done it more than once I would recommend the "tape type sealant" rather than the one applied with a mastic gun. Purely for cleaning up afterwards Geoff.

Dick


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

PS one could be forgiven for thinking that they are just held in by adhesive because after the screw clamps are released it is bloody difficult to get the widow out. In fact getting it out and cleaning it is the most difficult part of the job.

Dick


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