# Dragging clutch swift kontiki 1990 [talbot express 2.5TD]



## potholer99 (May 8, 2012)

For 6 months now the clutch has been dragging making it difficult to engage 1st or reverse, unless you stop engine , engage gear [easy] then start with clutch pedal down. Tightening cable cures but only for 20 miles or so, then needs more tightening. After several rounds of this I asked a mechanic - he said cable overtightened, slackened it off, and it was fine for a while, then dragging started again so I tightened 3 turns of locknuts, cured again for a few miles, then dragging again. New cable fitted, no difference, no visible trouble at either end of cable, pedal box etc. Prior to this van hadn't moved for 3 months, clutch stuck, had to release by jacking front wheels off ground, start engine in gear, jam on brakes to stop wheels - needed several goes at this till it released! Could this have damaged clutch causing dragging problem ? Anyone suggest a cheaper cure than clutch replacement?
Nigel


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

If your clutch isn't releasing first check the external bits. See if the release fork lever is moving far enough, can you force it a little further and release the clutch. You can check without having the engine running. Maybe the fork has become bent. Maybe the thrust bearing is breaking up but probably the pressure plate is just knackered.

If you do end up fitting a clutch fit a whole kit just to be sure, Alan.


----------



## sideways (Jun 2, 2008)

This is worth checking my old Hymer with the same engine and box did exactly this, the arm that the cable connects to is clamped on the shaft coming out of the gearbox with a pinchbolt, the arm is pressed steel, mine was rotten and bending and moving round the shaft evry time i adjusted the cable it was fine for a couple of days then it dragged again, i replaced the arm and no more problems, its worth a look.


----------



## potholer99 (May 8, 2012)

Thanks erneboy and sideways. Clutch does release - one wheel jacked up and in 5th with pedal down,wheel can be rotated easily by hand. Arm cable moves is not on mine attached with a pinchbolt - all you see is a thin circlip - havent tried to remove it - arm not rusted at all but I'll try and make sure its not the culprit.
Looking through inspection hole at the top, with flywheel rotated so the edge of the plate is visible through a gap in the coverplate, when pedal is fully down the linings still appear to touch on both sides as the springy metal centre of the plate expands and pushes the linings apart slightly. In this condition the wheel as said above can be easily turned in 5th gear, although you can hear the linings rubbing just like disc brake pads. That all seems normal, though I estimate the pressure plate is only pulling back less than 1mm and I would have expected more.
Someone suggested the clutchplate may not be moving freely on the splined shaft so I'm thinking of squirting some oil on the splines , possibly having to drill a hole in the casing for this!
It would be a shame to go for replacement - this clutch has only done 20k.


----------



## mrbricolage (Jun 30, 2008)

Check the pedal box! That is the other area that could be causing issues. Also check all the bushes are in good nick. These could be adding to your woes.


----------



## erneboy (Feb 8, 2007)

Try levering the arm a bit further and see if the clutch disengages completely then, Alan.


----------



## potholer99 (May 8, 2012)

Yes the arm wasn't moving far enough. After removing the engine lifting bracket and disconnecting a breather pipe the inspection hole is visible at the top of the clutch housing. With pedal down the spring plate expands the linings which still seemed to be touching both sides, though a jacked up wheel could be turned by hand in 5th gear. Moving the lever further gave an obvious 1-2mm clearance. The lever seemed a bit tight so I sprayed silicone lube into the shaft bushes externally, also internally through the inspection holes behind the vacuum pump
[after removing it] hoping to avoid oiling the clutchplate.
Also lubricated the clutch cable, and rerouted it to avoid sharp bends. It now curves above the engine instead of being clipped to the bulkhead. Problem now solved - pressure to floor the pedal is halved, movement at the lever almost doubled, and no dragging at all!
So which of these was the answer? Don't care - they probably all needed done!
Nigel


----------



## UncleNorm (May 1, 2005)

Put your foot UNDER the clutch pedal and lift. How much free play is there? I'm assuming you have a cable operated clutch in which case try tightening the cable at the engine end. It worked on my 2000 Peugeot.

IASTBC


----------

