# Treating wooden garden furniture



## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

My teak (I think) garden furniture sits outside all year. It looks lovely when just treated with teak oil but it doesn't last.

I scrubbed off the gunge with lots of water n elbow grease. Put oil on yesterday but the surface of the wood is kind of 'hairy' n it didn't look that great. 

Pics:
1. After wash/dry/several wipes of oil
2. The bottom slat was almost completely sanded down, the 2nd - only the left, then oil applied. A much better finish. Oops, 2nd is on its side. Bottom is to left. 

Now, the question - a friend has a sander which would make the job a lot easier. But if it's a circular sander would it still do a good (reasonable, I'm not too precious!) job or would it damage the wood?


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## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

The advice I received with my teak (yes, it looks just like yours) bench was to allow it to weather to a lovely grey colour. Teak is, after all, the wood of choice on many boats, so it must be up to it.

However, we didn't like it although the bird droppings were less noticeable on the greyest areas!

So like you I rubbed the wood by hand, having used a scrubbing brush to get the worst of the algae off, thus generating that hairy surface. Apply the oil and we have a lovely brown colour again. I've kept on top of it and it hasn't needed sanding, so I can't answer your question but I would expect a circular sander to be OK.

Gordon (no responsibility accepted for following my advice)

PS I bought fairly expensive weather-proof covers and they keep the worst of the problems at bay, allowing me to oil once per year.


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Thanks Gordon.

No, I don't like the grey either! 

I also bought covers but as it lives just outside my bedroom I found that the racket the cover made in high wind was too much. I placed a weighted box on the middle of the table. When I removed the cover I had a large, horrible, black stain which took some removing. I'll not do that again!


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

H1-GBV said:


> So like you I rubbed the wood by hand, having used a scrubbing brush to get the worst of the algae off, thus generating that hairy surface. Apply the oil and we have a lovely brown colour again. I've kept on top of it and it hasn't needed sanding, so I can't answer your question but I would expect a circular sander to be OK.


When you say you rubbed the wood by hand - was that using sandpaper?


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## H1-GBV (Feb 28, 2006)

One of those sanding blocks: medium/fine I think (3M?). They are so much easier to grip than a hard sanding-block with paper wrapped round.

Gordon

My Dad is now in a care home and I acquired it when we emptied and sold his bungalow (along with a lot of other useful things and a lot of rubbish!)


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## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

I am remembering what Hans did when he made all our wooden skirting boards and loads of other Wooden things, after each coat of varnish or whatever it was he used, he rubbed it down with fine paper because the `Hairs´ of wood stood up, he probably did it twice and then the third coat would be fine. So I reckon you need to rub it down Jean to get rid of the hairs.


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## aldra (Jul 2, 2009)

Our kitchen worktops came as oiled oak 

We washed off the oil and gave them several coats of satin varnish, NOT water based , sanding between every coat 

I think if we had oiled outdoor furniture we would do the same, our two oak benches are very old and have a degree of lichen on them, which as we rarely sit on them suits our garden style fine 

Sandra


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

Yeah, I should have rubbed it down before doing any oiling as that's going to gunge up the sander.

Anyone know, will using a circular sander with fine sandpaper leave marks on the grained wood?


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## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

jiwawa said:


> Yeah, I should have rubbed it down before doing any oiling as that's going to gunge up the sander.
> 
> Anyone know, will using a circular sander with fine sandpaper leave marks on the grained wood?


Sander, sander I can hear him say, not on furniture, do that my hand with something like these he had Jean.

https://www.google.com/search?q=San...Q&biw=1412&bih=887&dpr=2#imgrc=mJ1QWFQuCu-XBM


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

JanHank said:


> Sander, sander I can hear him say, not on furniture, do that my hand...


That's what I was afraid of!

Tho in the time I've been on here talking about it I could have had it done!


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## patp (Apr 30, 2007)

Sandra, would you choose the wooden worktop for your kitchen again if you had to? We chose it but I am a bit disappointed at the marks and staining etc. I know we can sand and oil it but I don't want to. I love the look of it and the marks seem to add character in this old cottage. In the new bungalow, though, everything is likely to be more modern so am not sure that the wooden work top is the best type to choose this time?


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## aldra (Jul 2, 2009)

I would Pat because it suits the character of my house and open plan live in kitchen/ dining room 

I wouldn’t leave it oiled though , I don’t think that’s hard wearing in a kitchen with water etc 

With several coats of silk sheen oil based varnish it’s stain free and wipeable 

I say oil based because I think that water based varnish seems to mark with water and my draining boards are also Oak to lip over the Belgium sink 

I think it depends on what type of character you want to create in your new house kitchen 

Sandra


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## patp (Apr 30, 2007)

I am having a lot of wood in the new bungalow because I love it and it is much easier to maintain. The wooden worktop would, therefore, match in with the house (though I haven't yet chosen the kitchen units!)


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

It’s not the sander that will do the damage, we’ve renovated plenty of furniture, an orbital sander is best, the important bit is use various grades of abrasive paper gradual working down to a very fine grade.

Before finally finishing with a fine grade paper, damped a cloth and wipe the surface, this raises the grain slightly to allow a really smooth final sanding.

And on a topical subject, wear a mask. 

Terry


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

I have teak garden furniture and love the silver aged look, wouldn't dream of oiling it. It is now at least 15 years old and as sound as new. I don't like it dirty though and it has a thorough powerwash every spring after being out all winter. Looks great when the sun comes out. Looks good as well next to silvered oak beams.


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## JanHank (Mar 29, 2015)

jiwawa said:


> That's what I was afraid of!
> 
> Tho in the time I've been on here talking about it I could have had it done!


If you put cushions on Jean you won´t get splinters in yer bum.:wink2:

I think it might look nice with the squirly bits from a sanding machine.


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

Just came across this and remembered this thread.






Terry


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

JanHank said:


> If you put cushions on Jean you won´t get splinters in yer bum./images/MotorhomeFacts_2014/smilies/tango_face_wink.png


I do have cushioned seat covers Jan - essential for old(er) bones! 


dghr272 said:


> Just came across this and remembered this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Terry, will have a look at that when data isn't an issue.


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## patp (Apr 30, 2007)

Jean, it basically shows the furniture being pressure washed (carefully), allowed to dry, and then finished with Teak Oil.


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## jiwawa (Jun 22, 2007)

I'm thinking the pressure hose would also raise the hairs of the wood. 

But it might be quicker than the hose n scrubbing brush, and it would get at all the nooks n crannies.

I'll have to get back to it now that I'm home!


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## dghr272 (Jun 14, 2012)

jiwawa said:


> I'm thinking the pressure hose would also raise the hairs of the wood.
> 
> But it might be quicker than the hose n scrubbing brush, and it would get at all the nooks n crannies.
> 
> I'll have to get back to it now that I'm home!


It will raise the surface grain but a sanding with 160 grit abrasive paper then a final fine 240 grit will leave a nice finish, the natural oils in the wood can clog the paper so refresh it as necessary.

Terry


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## Glandwr (Jun 12, 2006)

Quality teak furniture does not need treatment and will fade to a lovely (highly prized by some) silver colour. The "teak oil" sold is useful if you want to have that "new" look to it. OR if it is used in a maritime situation.

We have had a dining table and chairs that we put out every year at Easter and bring in at the end of Oct. It has been out every year come rain or shine for since 1988 and the wood apart from the silver grey colour is as sound as the day it was bought.

No coincidence that it was the timber of choice for luxury yatch decks. Lots of "teak" furniture is not proper teak.


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