# Low Profile sealant



## blade1889 (Jul 14, 2008)

I noticed this weekend that the sealant between the plastic low profile & the van joining, above the windscreen, had small cracks along the length.
After 5 years it looks as though the sealant is starting to perish.

My first thought was that if flies can get in there, then water can easily penetrate.

I have to admit that I do not know how the manufacturers tie the top to the base vehicle & how waterproof it is beneath the sealant. I suspect no very!

Has anyone re-sealed this area of their van, what did they use & how neat was it?

Sorry a multitude of questions, but I thought I need to take action before winter.

Brian


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## WildThingsKev (Dec 29, 2009)

My 4 year old Rapido low profile has a few hairline gaps between the sealant and the cab body. (Rapido use a lot less sealant then most). I'm sure the roof is bolted onto the cab body and there is at least 4 - 5" of cab roof behind and above the seal so I'm not concerned about it. I've looked in through the high level sidelight hole and there is no moisture in the void between the grp moulding and the coachbuilt structure.

Rain could only penetrate when driving into it and I've never noticed any water seeping out. I did try to touch up the 2 -4" that had the gap but it just pulled away again. I'm not sure I could make a tidy complete reseal so will leave it alone

Kev


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## commuter (Jul 13, 2011)

we have an overcab but the principle might be the same. I took the mattress up and the slatted base over the weekend so I could replace what looks like an old sleeping bag stapled in place with something a bit warmer and covering a larger area. There was an oval shaped hole which had the original base cab roof visible with the joint between the roof and the overcab body absolutely covered in sealant.

AFAIK there are no cracks or gaps between the cab and overcab body but if there was there should be no water ingress due to the 2 tubes (my estimate) which have been used round the oval hole.

Is there any way you can access the original roof of the cab to see what and how much was used?


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

If it is just hairline cracks you are worried about this stuff is great at finding it's way into and sealing them.

http://www.captaintolley.com/diff/diff.html

It is much the same sort of stuff as the old "Holts Seek and Seal " that was great at solving leaks on the old rubber gasket windscreens.


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## commuter (Jul 13, 2011)

looks like a good product Stanner. Wasn't aware anything like that existed


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## Stanner (Aug 17, 2006)

commuter said:


> looks like a good product Stanner. Wasn't aware anything like that existed


You weren't aware of Cap'n Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure? 

If it can keep water out of boats, it can keep damp out of motorhomes :wink:


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## Geriatricbackpacker (Aug 21, 2012)

Cap'n Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure? sounds like I should be using it for other applications...might stop me needing to get up in the night!!

I helped a friend re mastic their van using Sikaflex which was recommended by a local MH dealer. At £10 a tube I estimate we managed to get about £3 worth on his van and the rest on us. That said once it had been applied to the correct places we left it to cure for at least five minutes before then using a wet finger to smooth the joint. My brother, a plumber who is a mastic wizard said that he always uses a mixture of washing up liquid (the one that leaves you with soft hands as I recall) and water when he performs this part of the finish. His advice was good as it did make the smoothing process and finish much better than I could normally achieve. 
The other tips he gave us was to cut the nozzle at a 30 degree angle (I don't know if this is because it helps or he just has OCD) and not to make the initial hole too big as you can expand it if needs be. Keep a gentle pressure on the trigger as you move the gun slowly (not so easy when you are leaning precariously off a stepladder). Try a test area that isn't on the van to ensure that you are not squeezing out too much. Allow the mastic to cure before you remove any excess.
The finish did look very professional (which was more than we did) and my friend was extremely pleased. I would have no hesitation in buying the product if I needed to do any similar work on my van, however I might just time it to coincide the job with a visit from my favourite brother...


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## SNandJA (Aug 22, 2008)

Try this topic on MHF
Sikaflex and Stixall alternative

Link goes to page 3 but caulking tools link (page 2) and other links on previous pages.

I've also used Captain Tolley's C C Cure first on a GRP dinghy and also on the Motorhome. It works but spreads so on a vertical surface it needs applying carefully and clean excess off ASAP.

On my post I've got some before and after seam repair shots which used Stixall. Also did my low profile overcab seams but no photos. The spreaders mentioned in the post are good too when used in conjunction with disposable latex gloves! Not sure if washing up liquid helps smooth Stixall. I contacted Stixall and they advised white spirit as the smoothing lubricant. Stixall seems to work better than the not setting mastics which pick up dust and grime.

Steve


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