# Corroded Fiamma door locks



## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

We have a set of three Fiamma safe door locks that we bought last September, so they are only 7 months old and over the last couple of months we have had problems with them corroding also on two occasions we had major problems getting the locks open, the chrome lock barrels are quite white with corrosion & the white paintwork around the barrels is bubbling up, we have sprayed them with wd40 a couple of times, I think this is scandalous seeing they are only 7 months old, has anyone else had problems, does anyone have any recommendations on what we can do as we cant find the receipt so am not sure where we bought them from.


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## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

We also have already had to replace the Fiamma security 31 lock because it had seized up, Also with the back boxes all seem to be having the same lock, I am beginning to think Fiamma are a LOAD OF SH*TE.


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## hilldweller (Mar 8, 2008)

PaulandJackie said:


> has anyone else had problems


Yes. I think it's all the dust a MH stirs up which ends up in the lock mouth.

Particularly bad is the rear which is in low pressure all the time we are driving.

I do flush with WD40 but it's probably the wrong thing to do because it leaves a sticky residue which the dust adheres to.

I once had a pure graphite squirter which is completely dry lubrication but I've lost that.

So failing better advice I'll keep flushing with WD40.


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

Hi,

I will enquire further and report back.

Fiamma are extremely proud of their reputation, I know both of the Managing Directors personally and meet them very year on the NEC Fiamma stand which we operate on their behalf and I am sure they would be horrified to hear this.

Corrosion that you mention sounds like road salt or sea air possibly.

Peter


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## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

THANKS Peter, 
It would be much appreciated if you could enquire.
THANKS again Paul


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## trigrem (May 1, 2005)

Hi Peter
Sometimes the use of certain light alloys combined with steel components can cause electrolytic corrosion which results in a white powdery substance, might be worth mentioning this to Fiamma. I think it can be overcome in manufacturing by plating one of the components, but the material combination will determine the plating to use. 

Doug


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## Hymie (May 9, 2005)

*Corrosion*

What you need to use is Corrosion Block or ACF-50.

Both products chemically neutralise road salt and prevent further corrosion and lubricate as well.

Google it


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## wobby (May 1, 2005)

I to had these lock's on my old hymer and the white paint started to peal all be it after about 18 months. I would advise looking for replacements especially as John say that they would be horrified to learn about it. I was told by a lock smith not to use WD40 unless the lock was completely seized, far better is dry graphite dust which is supplied in a little dispenser and is made specially for the job, it works a treat and any good locksmith should have it.

www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/33973/

Wobby


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## b6x (Feb 26, 2007)

I have a Fiamma 200DJ bike rack that's been on the van less than 4 months. The lower brackets are corroded already, and have gone from a shiny metal to a dull grey covered in white powdery substance. Not impressed, but not really surprised.


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## Cherekee (May 1, 2005)

Hi,

We also have corrosion on our side door lock which is about 2 1/2 years old as well as the bike rack wheel clamps. We do however go to the continent in the winter so loads of salt on the roads so to be expected I suppose.

Alan


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## allan01273 (May 23, 2007)

*Fiamma bike rack wheel clamps*

I see it's not just me with this problem.

My clamps are covered with a white powdery stuff, the springs are rubbish, they do not hold the bikes in place securely and they are only a year and a half old.

At the Outdoor show in Birmingham I checked the price of new ones. It was going to be about £30 (for 6)
String is cheaper

Also on the Fiamma bike rack. What holds, or in my case was supposed to hold the end caps of the wheel trough's in place

Allan


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

Good Morning Paul and Jackie,

In this instance, please return the three locks to us and on behalf of Fiamma Italy, we will exchange them for a set of three new ones.

Please enclose a letter giving full details, plus a cheque for the return courier cost of £6-95 (TNT) as we cannot recover this.

Faulty items should really be returned to the dealer you bought them from.

As regards future protection use a silicone based grease or as been suggested a dry graphite lubricant.

As regards 'white' dust on other posts, bike racks are made of aluminium and do tend to corrode unless they are polished from time to time with a wax based polish and do need protection from the elements.

(check under your bonnet and look at the ally based components under there!)

Any technical queries or advice can be obtained by calling the FiammaCare hotlines.

Regards

Peter


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Hi all, just to say that the only time wd40 should be used on any locks is when they are sized just to loosen them,duck oil or diesil can also be used.After useing this you must apply some form of lubricant as all the above strip it out of any moving parts!Graphpte should be used after a few hours of drying,failing that spray on Silicon / grease or 3 in 1 type oil.If you use wd 40 etc, you will have to keep doing them every few weeks ! The Silicon should also be used on all your locks beit in the house or van ,if it moves spray it, it will also stop cracking/ perising on rubber seals 
terry


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## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

JohnsCrossMotorHomes said:


> Good Morning Paul and Jackie,
> 
> In this instance, please return the three locks to us and on behalf of Fiamma Italy, we will exchange them for a set of three new ones.
> 
> ...


THANKS for that Peter,
If we take the locks of to send to you before we get the new ones, we will be leaving a lot of exposed holes in the M/H. would it be possible to send the new ones out first, if we ring you with our card details for the postage we would even be willing to pay for them then refund us when you get the old ones, Note we go away tomorrow for about 1 1/2 weeks so will have to sort it when we get back,
We much appreciate your efforts considering we didn't even buy them from you.

THANKS again
Paul & Jackie


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## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

Peter
I have found out from my bank accounts that we had bought them from Riversway leisure, so have been in contact with them & had to email them a photo of one of them, I will keep you posted on the outcome.

PS photo attached (hopefully)
I don't think any amount of silicone grease would stop this corrosion under the paintwork, I think there is a problem with the manufacturing or the materials, (unless hopefully we were unlucky & got a faulty batch) We have a inflatable boat with a Aluminium floor that gets covered in sea water which doesn't get corroded due to using the right grade of materials/treatment for the job.


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

Ok keep me posted, have a good holiday.

Peter


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## krull (Jul 22, 2006)

Seems to be a common problem. I have recently replaced a 2 yr old Security 31 that had seized solid. A friend has just had similar problems with another seized Security 31 that is only 6 months old.


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## 106389 (Aug 11, 2007)

JohnsCrossMotorHomes said:


> Ok keep me posted, have a good holiday.
> 
> Peter


Hi Peter
We have received a new set of door locks from Fiamma a few weeks ago now, but we have been so busy only got round to posting on here now, THANKS again for your offer to help us on this matter, it was much appreciated.


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## 107088 (Sep 18, 2007)

Sounds like a result from JCM.

Its a bit away from motorhomes, but every bike I've had has got the white corrosion type of effect, Apparently as said its the use of 2 different alloys together, erm, like the bolts that hold the brake calipers onto the forks.
The only way that I have been able to stop them welding themselves together is a monthly strip down and a goodly smear of copaslip.

I also use a clear teflon spray in the ignition barrel/switch to figh the wet, this seems to work well, its the teflon based chain lube, and you can get it from bike shops in small aerosols.

this may help to prevent the problem reoccurring.


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