# Habitation Checks



## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

My MH is one year old next month and we have had the reminder from our dealer that it will require a habitation check which will cost £155 plus VAT. I cannot say that I am entirely happy with my dealers workmanship on the two occasions that I have visited for some minor work. Frankly I wish I had saved the diesel and carried out the work myself (I do now anyway)

My wife doesn't want me to have this check carried out. She is more than happy with the van and confident that all is well (which it is) She appreciates that the damp ingress warranty would be void but doesn't feel unduly worried about it and would rather save the money. She argues that come the time to sell it on we could have a check for the potential owners peace of mind (if he mentions that he wants one) and that will be that.

Personally, I am in two minds. What do you think? or are we being silly?


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## rocky58 (May 11, 2005)

My motorhome is 1 year old in june the hab check is £134 with vat.
but thinking on same lines as you wether to have it done


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## soundman (May 1, 2005)

We bought a three year old Hymer some years ago which had a history of damp checks with it.
In our second year of ownership we continued the schedule and a faulty seal was found. I think they charged about £65 for the check.
Cost of work £2000+ done f.o.c by Hymer.
Well worth the £65

Soundman


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## StAubyns (Jun 4, 2006)

My warranty ends this year in July. The Habitation check due then is £250!! Or it was last year, it may have gone up  

I will have an habitation check done but I am reluctant to pay this amount again.

I am pondering the matter at the moment 

Geoff


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## 110456 (Mar 8, 2008)

Autoquest said:


> My MH is one year old next month and we have had the reminder from our dealer that it will require a habitation check which will cost £155 plus VAT. I cannot say that I am entirely happy with my dealers workmanship on the two occasions that I have visited for some minor work. Frankly I wish I had saved the diesel and carried out the work myself (I do now anyway)
> 
> My wife doesn't want me to have this check carried out. She is more than happy with the van and confident that all is well (which it is) She appreciates that the damp ingress warranty would be void but doesn't feel unduly worried about it and would rather save the money. She argues that come the time to sell it on we could have a check for the potential owners peace of mind (if he mentions that he wants one) and that will be that.
> 
> Personally, I am in two minds. What do you think? or are we being silly?


Hi Autoquest

Like one or two others have said, better safe than sorry.

I've always had the hab checks done as & when required, just for peace of mind & I've always kept all docs for all my vehicles. Just gives peace of mind to whoever will purchase the vehicle next.

Just the way I am really.

Thai


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## dinger (Jul 30, 2007)

Dinger mounts his soap box,,,,


Autoquest .....Rocky 58

Let me put it this way to you , i would guess both your vans have cost in excess of £20K ......the latter maybe even 30K

To ensure a you have some kind of come back with the manufacturer on something like WATER INGRESS, then surely £120/150 is worth it .


I would whole heartedly agree , some of these dealers leave a lot to be desired, but would you treat your car the same way ?

Sorry , no brainer on this one

Falls off soap box


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## Grizzly (May 9, 2005)

The current Practical Motorhome magazine ( May 2008) has an article and double page spread of photos taking you through what is done at a habitation check by a dealer. It also goes through the MOT test in photos.

You might like to read this and decide what you can do and perhaps ask your dealer to do only those things which you cannot do yourself .

G


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## Suenliam (Mar 22, 2006)

We have ours done. First and last by the dealer as convenient for us at the time, the second was done by a local "certified" caravan repairs centre with the agreement of the dealer.

Several reasons - mainly peace of mind, also nips any problems in the bud, get any bits that have failed free without any hassle (e.g. the fridge door catch and another locker catch was stiff and replaced), we get the gas check done so I know we are safe. 

We spent nearly £40k so £140pa to keep it safe and sound as far as is possible does not seem much. It may well be recouped if we sell as the potentional purchasers will know we tried to look after it. Although now (at least in a couple of weeks) out of warranty we will continue to get it "done".

As an aside it also gives us an excuse to a) visit Yorkshire and b) support a very helpful dealer.

But as they say - each to their own  

Sue


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## Pixelpusher (Feb 26, 2007)

Our vehicle is coming up for its first service and I confess to having similar doubts about the value of the check given the amount of use it gets. 

So, I'll be booking ours in soon but does anyone have a breakdown of the things that actually get done.

Thxs
Colin


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## Grizzly (May 9, 2005)

Pixelpusher said:


> So, I'll be booking ours in soon but does anyone have a breakdown of the things that actually get done.


PM me your e-mail address and I'll copy the PM page.

G


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## 107925 (Oct 27, 2007)

Each time the subject of habitation check comes up, the replies run in much the same way: on one hand there are those who feel that given the safety implications and the cost of the motorhome, it would be daft not to have it done. In the opposite corner are those who acknowledge the aforementioned, but feel that the cost for the work involved is a right royal rip-off.

My first check will be due shortly, but I do balk at paying a couple of hundred pounds for many checks I'm quite capable of doing myself. I'd be happy to pay for those which involve specialist expertise and/or equipment, but I'm reluctant to pay someone to tell me that doors, windows, etc, on a one year old van, open and close properly. After one year, the conversion warranty is up anyway and I'm better placed as user of the van to spot dodgy fittings.

Give me a habitation check for a hundred quid which homes in on safety, rather than minor stuff, and I'll cough up.

You could argue that your house cost a great deal of money, but I bet you don't invest money to have someone inspect it each year, with a view to reporting that doors and windows are sticking, or there's a drip from one of your taps, etc. 

Shaun


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Hi I have kept a full list provided by JCM on here as to what gets checked in the service, if jcm agrees I can paste it on here,it makes good reading! Personaly after warrenty expires I would not bother but untill then I feel it is a must 
terry


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## Pixelpusher (Feb 26, 2007)

What irritates me slightly is that the Warranty is tied in with regular services. You buy a vehicle that includes a 'free' 3 year warranty only to find out that you have to pay out each year to keep the warranty valid.

Colin


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## peedee (May 10, 2005)

I'm with maddie on this one. What realy gets my back up is that apart from the damp check, all the other checks you do as a matter of course when using it. Mine is out of warranty and I now only have the chassis serviced annually. I have a habitation check done and gas appliance check only when my van goes in for work to be done on it which has been once in four years and that was last year and there were no problems. 

If a buyer wants a damp check done on it I would be happy to pay for it.

peedee


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

maddie said:


> Hi I have kept a full list provided by JCM on here as to what gets checked in the service, if jcm agrees I can paste it on here,it makes good reading! Personaly after warrenty expires I would not bother but untill then I feel it is a must
> terry


Hi,

Yes please do copy and paste it.

The other point which is a major safety issue is the checking of all the gas appliances and gas supply. *Gas and carbon monoxide are unseen KILLERS.*

Yes you can do all these checks yourself, but if the MH blew up or caught fire for arguements sake......... Insurance Company get out as you are not qualified.

The cost of an annual habitation check is £99 plus materials and VAT and mechanical £135 plus materials and Vat. Not expensive for peace of mind.

Regards

Peter


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## dinger (Jul 30, 2007)

Just to add that , whilst being on the side of having an "official " habitation check carried out, i am lead to believe that you can take your motorhome to a non franchised distributor as long as they have the correct Test certification, so can pay nearer to £120 than £250.

In my own case , our van is comming up to 4 years old so will take it to a 
fully independent dealer who will do the engine side as well.

Dinger


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

HABITATION CHECKLIST PROVIDED COURTESY OF JCM

May I also SAY that JCMs prices seam a lot more resonable than others quoted on here that to me are a big rip off!
Am I back in the good books now? :lol: :lol: terry

Recommended Annual Habitation Service Check 
INTRODUCTION 

There is much confusion over the annual habitation service or check for motorhomes, with widely varying prices and standards of work. However a 'standard checklist' is used by many dealers when carrying out this work, but it seems that many owners are not aware of this, or of what checks should be included. We suggest that owners should ask for the 'SMMT Annual Habitation Service Check' to be carried out. Competent owners may wish to use the published checklist when carrying out their own maintenance. 

The following guidelines for the checking and servicing of a motorhome's habitation area are taken from the guidance booklet published by the Motorhome Section of the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) and the Motorhome Division of The National Caravan Council (NCC). They are © SMMT & NCC and reproduced here with their kind permission. We would like to thank them for providing this information and also thank The Motorhome Information Service for their assistance. 

The checks do not cover any part of the base vehicle, although there may be minor overlapping (such as tyre pressures, cab seats, internal lights, battery and windows) in a van conversion. The base vehicle must be serviced in accordance with the chassis manufacturer's instructions. 

Reference should also be made to: 

1. Any owner's manual or equivalent supplied with the vehicle by the motorhome manufacturer. 

2 Appliance manufacturers' leaflets. 

3. Driver s handbook or equivalent supplied by the chassis manufacturer. 


A vehicle is accepted for service at the dealer's discretion. 
Any defects, repairs, adjustments, cleaning or lubrication required will be noted on the check list. 
The customer's approval will be obtained before any work is done. 

Not all of the equipment mentioned in this manual is fitted as standard to every motorhome 

Any work carried out following the check, and the sufficiency of the work in the check itself, is subject to the contract between the customer and the dealer. The National Caravan Council (NCC) & SMMT and their member companies are not part of this contract, and accept no liability in contract, tort or otherwise, other than death or personal injury due to negligence on their part. 


SECTION 1 
BODY MOUNTING 

1.1 BODY TO CHASSIS 
Examine all fixings retaining the body to the chassis - this may be direct or through a sub-frame. 
Where practical, all fittings should be checked to ensure they are all present and correctly secured. 

1.2 BODY TO CAB 
Examine joint between body and cab for signs of movement and soundness of sealing media. 

1 .3 BODY RETENTION (Dismountables) 
Check serviceability and tightness of body retaining gear. 
Check serviceability of body support struts and mountings. 
(Note - whether it will be necessary to demount the body to check the 
body supports must be agreed between dealer and customer). 


SECTION 2 
WINDOWS 

2.1 WINDOWS 
Check window glazing rubber or sealing for cracks and general condition. 
Check for satisfactory opening and closing. 
Check fixing of top hinge rail on top hung windows. 
Check for good weather seal when window is closed and latched. 
Check catches and stays for satisfactory operation. 


SECTION 3 
DOORS 

3.1 EXTERNAL DOORS 
Not including base vehicle doors. 

3.1.1 SECURITY 
Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, doors are held securely shut. 
Check that keys or internal latches lock the doors correctly. 
Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the open position is satisfactory. 

3.1.2 SEALING 
Check all door seals for cracking and general condition. Check correct closing to give a weather-tight seal. 

3.1.3 CHILDPROOF LOCK 
Where a door is fitted with a childproof lock, check that an appropriate warning notice is fixed adjacent to the door. 
Appropriate warning notices are available from motorhome manufacturers. 

3.2 INTERNAL DOORS 

3.2.1 SECURITY 
Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, the door is held securely shut. 

3.2.2 SAFETY 
Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the closed position can be operated from both sides to open the door in an emergency. 


SECTION 4 
ATTACHMENTS TO CHASSIS OR UNDERBODY 

4.1 CORNER STEADIES 
Check that attachments to chassis are secure. Ensure steadies work freely and satisfactorily. 
Lubricate screw to ensure correct operation. 

4.2 FOLDING/RETRACTABLE STEPS 
Check that step pivots are satisfactory and not worn. Check that, when closed, the retaining mechanism holds the step securely. If fitted, check warning device is working. 

4.3 UNDERFLOOR WATER TANK MOUNTINGS 
Check mounting frames are secure to body. Any fastenings that require releasing to remove the tank should be free of rust and operate freely. (Removal, flushing, cleaning and replacing of tanks will be carried out at the prior request of the customer or will be done subsequently with other work). 

4.4 SPARE WHEEL 
Remove spare wheel. Check for damage. Check tyre pressure. 
Check mounting frame for security to body and for secure retention of 
spare wheel. 

4.5 WHEELBOXES 
Check for damage, corrosion, water seepage, signs of tyre rubbing. 

SECTION 5 
ATTACHMENT TO BODY EXTERIOR 

5 1 ROOF LIGHTS 
Check security, general condition, and that sealing has not deteriorated. 

5.2 ROOF RACKS AND LADDERS 
Check security to body and general condition. 
Check roof for damage adjacent to rack. 

5.3 MOULDINGS, TRIMS 
Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated (see section 6). 

5.4 FLUE TERMINALS, AIR VENTS 
Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated. 
Check that these are not blocked. 

SECTION 6 
INTERNAL 

6.1 BODY SEEPAGE CHECK 
Examine for moisture/water staining of areas under windows, at side of roof and at corners which could indicate water seepage problems. 
A moisture meter should be used where appropriate. 

6.2 FURNITURE 
Check furniture is securely fixed. 
Check door hinges, catches and stays for satisfactory operation. 

6.3 DINETTE SEAT/BEDS 
Check seat bases for security of fixings and for damage. 
Make up beds according to manufacturer's instructions and check for 
rigidity and safety. 

6.4 UPPER BUNKS 
Check there is a secure means of access to upper bunks and that, where applicable, protection against falling out and entrapment is provided. 

6.5 CURTAINS/BLINDS/NETS 
Check track is secure and curtains draw freely without snagging. 
Check blinds and/or nets for correct operation. 
Check flyscreens in roof lights and air vents. 

6.6 CAB SEATS 
Where cab seats form part of the living area and/or bed layout they should be checked for security of attachment, smooth and easy operation of seat slides, swivels and seat back operation. 

6.7 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 
Check condition and expiry date. If an extinguisher is not fitted, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment. 

6.8 FIRE BLANKET 
Check position (should be near cooker). 
If one is not present, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment. 

6.9 ADVICE TO OCCUPIERS WARNING NOTICE 
Check presence and condition and advise accordingly 
The wording and the layout of the notice should be set out as follows: 

ADVICE TO USERS 

VENTILATION 
NO NOT OBSTRUCT THE VENTILATORS WHICH ARE FITTED; YOUR SAFETY DEPENDS ON THEM 

IN CASE OF FIRE 
1. GET EVERYONE OUT 
2. TURN OFF OUTSIDE GAS VALVE OR OIL VALVE (IF FITTED) 
3. DISCONNECT THE MAINS ELECTRICITY SUPPLY 
4. RAISE THE ALARM AND CALL THE FIRE BRIGADE 
5. TACKLE THE FIRE IF SAFE TO DO SO 

FIRE PRECAUTIONS 

CHILDREN: DO NOT LEAVE THEM ALONE 

MEANS OF ESCAPE: MAKE SURE YOU KNOW THE LOCATION AND OPERATION OF THE EMERGENCY EXITS, KEEP ALL ESCAPE ROUTES CLEAR 

COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS: KEEP THEM CLEAR OF ALL HEATING AND COOKING APPLIANCES 

FIRE FIGHTING: PROVIDE, AT LEAST, A 1 KG POWDER FIRE EXTINGUISHER, THAT COMPLIES WITH BS 5423 BY THE MAIN EXIT DOOR, AND A FIRE BLANKET NEXT TO THE COOKER. MAKE YOURSELF FAMILIAR WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS ON YOUR FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND THE FIRE PRECAUTION ARRANGEMENTS ON THE CARAVAN PARK. 


6.10 PORTABLE OR OPEN FLAME HEATING EQUIPMENT 
Check for its presence. The customer must be advised against its use. 

SECTION 7 

ELEVATING ROOFS 

7.1 LIFTING MECHANISM 
Gas struts or spring struts should be checked for corrosion (particularly on the piston rods of gas struts), smooth operation when operating roof up and down and to ensure that they support the roof when fully up. Check attachment points of struts to body and roof. 

7.2 CANVAS SIDE WALLS 
Check for satisfactory attachment to body and roof. 
Check for splits or holes, particularly at fold lines. 
Check that the canvas stows satisfactorily when roof is lowered. 
(A waterproofing check will be done at the prior request of the 
customer). 

7.3 SOLID SIDE WALL 
Check sides and end panels fold up and down correctly, that they seal against each other where appropriate and that retaining mechanisms are satisfactory. 
Check all hinges for security and freedom from strain. 

7.4 LOCKING OF ROOF 
It is important to ensure that when the roof is in the travelling position, it is safely and positively locked down. Any locking retaining mechanism should be carefully examined. 

SECTION 8 
GAS SYSTEMS 

8.1 CYLINDERS AND REGULATORS 
Establish that the cylinders and regulators are compatible. Butane (blue) cylinders should have a regulator stamped with the pressure 11" WG (28 m bar) and propane (red) cylinders should be stamped 14" WG (37 m bar). Check that the regulator is controlling the gas to the correct pressure for the type of cylinder fitted. 
Check cylinder compartment vents and gas drop hole in the floor are free from obstruction. 
Check seals on internal doors. 
8.2 HOSE AND PIPING 
Check any flexible hose is of an approved type. Check its condition and for any evidence of cracking. 
Check piping for condition, damage and correct support. 
Carry out an overall leak test. 

8.3 APPLIANCES 
In general, the checking of gas appliances can be divided into the following: 


1. Cleaning 4. Flues 
2. Operation of controls 5. Flame failure device 
3. Correct flame structure 6. Security 

8.3.1 CLEANING 
Where appropriate, remove cover(s) to gain access to heat exchanger. 
Clean away any fluff or foreign matter. Reassemble and test. 
Clean flame viewing window. 

8.3.2 CONTROLS 
Check that all knobs etc. work smoothly and are secure on their spindles. 
If gas taps require greasing to ease stiffness, use only approved LPG grease. 
Check that appliances can be brought into service using the normal controls. 

8.3.3 CORRECT FLAME STRUCTURE 
Check that all pilot flames burn quietly and clearly. 

Refrigerator: With the refrigerator gas control turned to maximum, the colour of the flame should be predominantly blue. 
Instantaneous Water Heating: The main burner flame should be of even height and blue in colour. A flame burning yellow will allow sooting to occur. 

Ovens: The oven flame should burn quietly and be of even height, mainly blue/green in colour. If the gas is propane, the flame will normally develop yellow tips as the burner heats up. If the gas is butane, a small amount of yellow tipping will be seen immediately after lighting, increasing as the burner heats up. 

Grill Burners: It is normal for the flames on this type of burner to develop yellow tips as it heats up, particularly on butane. 

General: A flame lifting away from the burners is an indication of too high a pressure, although it may happen with grill burners whilst the frets are heating up. 
A yellow flame will cause sooting and is an indication of too low a pressure. 
Providing the regulator and piping have been checked and found satisfactory the above faults should not appear. 

8.3.4 FLUES 
Flues should be examined for security of fixing and for correct attachment to appliances and flue terminals. They should be free from damage and corrosion. 
Check for leakage of flue gases into the vehicle. 

8.3.5 FLAME FAILURE DEVICE (FFD) 
Where fitted, the FFD should be checked to ensure satisfactory operation. After the appliance has been successfully checked, allow time for the thermocouple to cool. 
Attempt to relight the appliance by turning it on without pushing in the gas control knob. (Do not override the FFD). If appliance does not light, FFD is satisfactory. 

8.3.6 SECURITY 
Check appliance is securely fixed to the vehicle/furniture and will be free from rattles. Where applicable, check that water pipes are satisfactorily attached with no sign of leakage 

8.3.7 PROTECTION OF ADJACENT SURFACES 
Check that surfaces adjacent to open flame cooking appliances have adequate protection. 

8.3.8 INSPECTIONS 
It is recommended that inspections are carried out by a qualified fitter 
trained to, for example, CORGI (Confederation of Registered Gas Installers) or Calor standards. 

SECTION 9 
WATER SYSTEM 
Before operating the water system, a visual check of the following items may show up an obvious leak source. 

9.1 FRESH WATER TANK CONTAINER 
Check condition, fill tank and check for leaks. 
Check the external filter and filter pipe to tank. 
Check for satisfactory venting. 
Check condition and presence of filter cap. 

9.2 WASTE WATER TANK 
Check drain tap is clear and working. 
Check condition and presence of drain hose. (The water tank will be drained, flushed, cleaned and charged with a measure of toilet fluid/disinfectant at the prior request of the customer. 

9.3 FILTER PUMP 
When applicable, remove filter and replace. 
Check the in-line pump for security and condition. Remove the 
submersible pump from tank, check condition. 
Check pump inlet and outlet are clear and not obstructed. 
Check delivery hose and electric cable are secure and satisfactory 

Operate pump. Check all piping for leaks. 
Operate taps and shower. If a hot water system is fitted, it can be checked for leaks etc. using cold water. 
(Note - Aerated water from tap could be due to a leak on the suction side of the pump). 

With water running through the drain pipes, check for leaks and satisfactory draining of water from sinks etc. 

9.6 . COUPLINGS AND FLUIDS. 
Check that the appropriate markings are used - blue for fresh water, grey for waste water. Ensure a sealing off cover is supplied for each coupling. Check that filler positions are designated "petrol", "diesel", or "water" as appropriate. 

9.7 TOILET WASTE TANK 
Check that any fixed tank intended to receive discharge from a toilet is fitted with either a level or full indicator. 

SECTION 10 
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 

10.1 EXTRA LOW VOLTAGE 12 VOLTS (excluding vehicle) 

10.1.1 BATTERY/IES 
Check battery/ies for condition. 
Check connections, wires, fuses and relays appertaining to the habitation electrics. 

10.1.2 WIRING 
Examine all visible wiring. 
Check all connections and joints are sound and satisfactory 

10.1.3 FUSES/FUSE HOLDERS 
Ensure that fuses and fuse holders used to protect the habitation electrics are satisfactory and that fuse ratings are compatible with the circuit appliances being protected. 

10.1.4 APPLIANCES 
Inspect all appliances for damage, signs of overheating and secure fixing 
Function test all appliances. 

10.2 MAINS 230 VOLT SYSTEM 
It is recommended that the inspection and certification of the 230 volt system be carried out by a qualified electrician who is an approved contractor of the NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) or in membership of the Electrical Contractors Association. 


SECTION 11 
VENTILATION 

11.1 HIGH LEVEL 
Check all high level ventilators, including roof lights, are free from obstruction and allow a free flow of air. 

11.2 LOW LEVEL 
Check all low level ventilators are free from obstruction and allow a free flow of air. 
If the ventilator is manually adjustable then ensure mechanism is free and operating correctly
TERRY


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## Pixelpusher (Feb 26, 2007)

There seems to be no mandatory requirement for having Gas Appliances checked regulary so this should not effect any insurance cover.

Colin


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## Pixelpusher (Feb 26, 2007)

That seems quite a comprehensive list and one I'd be happy with.

One thing I noticed that's missing from the Advice to Occupiers Warning Notice List. Mine has a notice that says - Do not drive with the blinds closed.  

I wonder how they check you comply with that.

Colin


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

off topic but reminds me of an MOT once

I had removed passenger seat for floorpan welding..

advisory was : 'passenger seat missing'

I was grateful as I had forgotten to look left that day


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Ah, yes John they cannot fail it if one is not fitted :lol: mate says it is funny how many spare wheels are failures :lol: 
terry


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

Thanks for the advice - I kind of expected the two types of reply because I am two minds myself  

Perhaps I shall investigate a third party who is a little cheaper (that isn't offset by the price of 6 gallons of diesel to get there and back!)


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## Pixelpusher (Feb 26, 2007)

I've just booked my Bessacar E410 into Becks, Norfolk - the dealer we bought from. £110 + vat.

Colin


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## 96633 (Nov 3, 2005)

Marquis Devon habitation check is £182.13 made up as follows:-

3 hours labour @ £50 per hour
Plus £5 for ancillaries
Plus VAT £27.13


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## 1happy (Jun 15, 2005)

*Habitation checks & charges!*

Hi.
Just thought I would tell of our experience on this subject.
I do believe when it comes to risking your warranty it is worth paying & once the warranty is up do as you see fit.
However.
Two years ago our dealer wanted in excess of £200  to do a habitation check on our 1 year old van. 
I knew if we shopped around we could probably do better :roll: 
However when I asked the dealer if we were free to go anywhere elsewhere?
I was told that to be valid re the warranty it had to be with an authorised dealer for our particular motorhome manufacturer, this limited the choice in the uk
However never wanting to be forced into a corner we checked with a company in belgium who were authorised dealers and they were after all on our route for our next trip  
They charged less than £100,stamped the warranty book,ticked all the appropriate boxes & job done  
I know this may not suit everyone but it is worth a thought if you find yourself with dealer imposed restrictions (so to speak)
C


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## MikeCo (Jan 26, 2008)

We have a Chausson and there are two separate checks to consider, the habitation and the water ingress. We only have the water ingress check done which costs around £50, this keeps the warranty in place. The warranty is not affected if you do not have a habitation check done. This also applies to any Autosleeper and may well apply to other makes.
This fact was confirmed to me by the Chausson dealer and by Autosleeper themselves.


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

Thanks to all.

MikeCo. I have indeed just checked with my dealer and he will do the water ingress check for £25+VAT which seems a satisfactory solution for this year at least. Thanks for the tip.


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## kazzzy (Apr 9, 2006)

I have the same dilema that others have expressed although mine gets even more complex, the van is coming up for 1 year old at the end of April, and there is only one authorised agent in the UK to do the "Habitation check" and that is Brownhills, since I bought the van they have closed the local branch (Cannock) whic means that i have to now go to either swindon or Newark a round trip of 200 miles, add to that they want £250.00 + VAT for the habitation service plus £250.00 +VAT for the base vehicle service and i would need to take at least a day of work as they will only do it Monday to friday it is going to cost me around £700.00 to get it done ! have thought about leaving the habitation bit and just getting local FIAT agent only 5 miles away to do the vehicle service at least it keeps up the vehicle warranty, I am quite capable of carrying out the habitation bit myself especially for that sort of money.


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Go for it kazzzy,(that means what you said) the vehicle warrenty is more important! All the ancileries will be covered by manufactuers,dometec etc,On the caravan side you should have no probs that you cannot fix yourself cheaply :lol: espicily under £700
terry


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## StAubyns (Jun 4, 2006)

johncrossmotorhomes "The cost of an annual habitation check is £99 plus materials and VAT and mechanical £135 plus materials and Vat. Not expensive for peace of mind.
Regards
Peter[/quote said:


> Peter, if I was closer to you , you would have my business
> 
> But my warranty dealer wanted £250 last year for the habitatation check, and I paid it, I don't know what the price will be this year  but I bet it's gone up.
> 
> ...


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## Suenliam (Mar 22, 2006)

I don't know if it's specific to Adria, but our habitation check done locally was by an approved caravan dealer. Our supplier said this was perfectly OK for the habitation check and even agreed it was daft travelling 200 miles round trip if we weren't going that way for any other reason.

The more I read on here, the more I come to value our dealer!

Sue


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## 107925 (Oct 27, 2007)

I have a related question which has been bothering me. My standard Adria warranty for the conversion side is one year. This is on condition that there is an annual habitation inspection. Surely if a claim were to be made during the one year warranty period, it couldn't be rejected on the grounds that a habitation inspection had failed to be carried out. After all, this could take place on the last day of the year's warranty and still comply with the 'at least once a year' requirement.

I also have an extended warranty and as is the norm, these cover the more important motorhome matters, and looking at the specific warranty exclusions for the extended period of years two to five, the habitation side doesn't appear to be covered. Yet, there's a requirement for an annual inspection of the various internal fixtures and fittings, which all seems to point to a habitation check. Why should this be an ongoing annual requirement if the extended warranty only focuses on the major components of the chassis, like engine, gearbox, etc?

Shaun


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## Autoquest (May 16, 2007)

If I understand you correctly - There are two parts to your warranty, one is issued by Fiat/Peugeot and the other by your motorhome dealer. I give my van to Peugeot for all servicing and engine warranty work, VOSA recalls and the like and I bypass my MH dealer completely when having this work done and deal with Peugeot direct. The first part of your warranty (for the front end) will be from Fiat/Peugeot and should be for 24 months EU wide and a further 12 months for UK vehicles only - 36 months in all.

The second part of your warranty comes from your MH dealer and covers the back end for two, three or five years. The most important part of this warranty is for water ingress but for this part of the warranty to be honoured an annual check of the back end has to be made. You can expect to pay around £200 for a full habitation check or £25 (in my case) for just the water ingress check - I opted for just the ingress check thus ensuring the MH manufacturers conditions have been met and saving me a fortune. I take pot luck with the rest of the gear, most of it (fridge, cooker, Truma) comes with a warranty in its own right anyway.


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## vardy (Sep 1, 2006)

I go to www.tuimotorcaravans.co.uk they convert and build smaller vans too. Little place modest prices parking OK. Scrupulous attention to detail. Not able to carry big unusual parts stock, but can order in pretty much anything. I usually ring, go over, they do a list and book date. I call to make sure bits arrived. Work is excellent and they seem to do any age/type of van. I saw one with a farmyard growing out of it next to a nearly new big un!

Price for my Harmony £135 for habitat. I needed lots of small parts and was there all day. Extra was about £40 They are at Bawtry near Doncaster.

Have been into a few bigger places for jobs and they were a joke. At least if these say it's done - it actually IS. - H


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## 107925 (Oct 27, 2007)

The reason for my question is that Adria's standard warranty is not generous and nor is Fiat's. Adria's for the conversion is one year; Fiat's is two years. I've since learned that Fiat's will vary between two and three years for the chassis side, depending on their arrangement with the converter in question.

So, what I'm getting at is that because Adria's standard warranty for the conversion is just one year, what's the point in them insisting upon a habitation check at least once a year to comply with that warranty? Most people would only be considering the first check just as the warranty is about to expire.

Adria's extended warranty, for those who pay extra for it (mine came with the van and I've transferred it over) again has stipulations regarding annual checks of habitation-related matters. However, that extended warranty excludes most of the items which would be inspected within the habitation area. After all, the idea behind an extended warranty is to cover the user for mechanical breakdown of bits which would be costly to repair/replace. It, therefore, seems a pointless exercise in stating that an annual habitation check is needed to comply with the extended warranty, when this are is largely beyond the remit of the warranty.

Shaun


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## beagle (Sep 25, 2005)

Looking at the list of checks it seems like a good idea, but being a bit cynical I wonder how many items on th list would actually, really, preperly be checked.

Has anybody had any disasters because they didn't have a check? If someone has, perhaps I'll be swayed. Like lots of us, I wonder if it's worth it. I look after my pride and joy, so it's (a) gas and (b) water ingress that are my only real concerns. I have a gas alarm and a humidity meter so I feel almost but not entirely reassured that things are OK. If water came in, would it not be fairly easy to find abd fix? Dunno...


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## safariboy (May 1, 2005)

I agree with John Cross, but his charges are at the reasonable end of the spectrum. I am keen to have a proper gas and electrical check and do not own the equipment to do it. A damp check is also well worth while.


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## Suenliam (Mar 22, 2006)

The Adria warranty for the habitation side is 3 years for our model.

Sue


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## LAZZA (Oct 28, 2006)

hi my van is also due for its first service,which i agree with you does seem a right rip off.however we have previously owned 2 coach built motorhomes from new and both have had damp repairs carried out in the first 18 months ,but in my opinion it is very important to get the gas appliances checked out once a year as the state of our roads does give your van a good shaking and so can loosen gas pipes,cookers etc.Just listen to your pots rattling and you will see what i mean. As i say just my opinion. Cheers Lazza


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## soundman (May 1, 2005)

*Water Ingress Check*

Just had a Water Ingress check done while we were at Peterborough show.
Hymer UK charged £82.25p

*Excessive damp found in fresh water tank*

The old ones are still the best (Peter from Hymer)

Soundman


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

Hi Lazza,a good way to check for gas leaks every time you use your van is turn the gas bottle on then off wait a couple of mins then turn the cooker on and listen for the gas :wink: if you hear it you are ok, then you can turn the bottle back on and use
:lol: terry


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## 102731 (Jan 30, 2007)

maddie said:


> Hi Lazza,a good way to check for gas leaks every time you use your van is turn the gas bottle on then off wait a couple of mins then turn the cooker on and listen for the gas :wink: if you hear it you are ok, then you can turn the bottle back on and use
> :lol: terry


Took your tip myself, returned to van after a few minutes. Switched on lights out of habit. Ooooh, my ears are still ringing!! Do I have a leak?


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## maddie (Jan 4, 2006)

:lol: :lol: :lol: If your van blew up with the small amount of gas in the pipes I would think you have a leak 8O :lol: :lol: :lol: 8) 
terry


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