# Talbot Express clutch replacement



## stendec (Jan 26, 2007)

Does anyone have experience of replacing a Talbot Express (J reg, Turbo Diesel) clutch? I assume the existing one is coming to the end of it's useful life as, though it grips ok, the slightest pressure on the clutch peddle causes clutch slip. It has 48,000 miles on the clock.
Is this a difficult/horrible job to do in your own driveway or should it be left to a garage (expensive labour quote)?
Any advice, experience, warnings or horror stories welcome,
Stendec


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

what size engine is it Stendec?

John


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## 101405 (Oct 15, 2006)

Clutch needs adjusting . adjust the pedal height to the same level as the brake pedal. A clutch sould last you min 150.000miles Adjusting rod is under clutch /Gearbox housing easy job. NO you would not want to do on your drive . Clutch unit sould be obtainable for less than 120£


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## stendec (Jan 26, 2007)

Hi John, engine is a 2.5 litre turbo diesel.
Thanks silversurfa, will check the adjustment over the weekend.


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## danielf (May 11, 2005)

*Clutch...*

Hi There,

Sound like sdjustment first, you've got nothing to lose. Maybe sleepy van symdrome??

You'll need a giant (37mm from memory) socket and and air wrench to undo the hubnuts in order to get the drive shafts moved enough so you can move the gearbox.

I haven't done the clutch although my Rambler was still on the original clutch when I sold it in June and had 110,000 miles on it.... I was looking as I needed replace a Cv gaiter, I took one look and sent it to my garage....

HTH,

Daniel.


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## drcotts (Feb 23, 2006)

I did this job myself once and wouldnt do it again. You actually dont have to take the driveshafts off as you can decouple the inner CVs and leave the cups in place quite easily.

But that aside it really is not a job even for a compenetnt mechanic unless its your trade.

Mine went subsequently and i paid £160 all in for a replacment. It was well worth it. The thrust bearing is a pest as it stick so if you do get it done at a garage get then to lubricate liberally the gerbox input shaft with copaslip
Yes it was not a genuine clutch but it lasted me 7 years till i sold the van and for £160 you can afford to do it every 5 years.

Phill


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## loddy (Feb 12, 2007)

Don't use copaslip on the first motion shft splines it goes hard after awhile and you will get clutch drag,

Dont try it on your drive unless you know what you are doing,

Loddy

(retired motor mechanic who has a knackered body due to doing too many clutches on his back in the cold and wet )


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

ahh 2.5 ...

I have done a brace of 1.9s and wondered if it was one of them.. 

Yep as said check free play in cable then get some quotes 

John (part time mechanic knackering his body every way possible)


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## patman (Jan 1, 2007)

Evening all
I had a slipping clutch on my Talbot 2.5 when I bought it. In this case it was the shaft that runs into the gearbox from the pedal which was sticking. The heater drain pipe was missing and the rainwater ran onto the gearbox causing the shaft to rust. Plenty of oil and movement fixed it.

Patman
The artful bodger.


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## stendec (Jan 26, 2007)

drcotts said:


> Mine went subsequently and i paid £160 all in for a replacment. It was well worth it. Phill


The cheapest quote I got including parts and 9.2 hours labour is around £380. Not sure if that's good or not.

The local Peugeot (Hawkins) garage quote was £859 including 11 hours labour. Ouch!


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## johng1974 (Jan 17, 2007)

£380 for a clutch is quite high, but on the other hand, for over a days work, all in, would say that's ok.. must be tricky to get to..


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## stendec (Jan 26, 2007)

johng1974 said:


> must be tricky to get to..


Chap at the garage described it as "A Pig to work on".


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## stendec (Jan 26, 2007)

Got underneath this afternoon to check clutch adjustment. The clutch pedal was 4 inches or so above the brake pedal and the cable so tight there was virtually no slack, i.e. under permanent tension. Slackening off the nuts on the end of the cable brought the pedal down level with the brake and introduced some slack. Will take it out for a run tomorrow but feels more like normal, just shunting back and forth in the drive.

Does the cover that bolts on under the engine serve any useful purpose? It's in a pretty tatty state with wire holding it on as most of the bolt eyelets are torn. Just wondering if it's worth the agro of taking it off and tying it back on every time I need to get to the underside of the engine/gearbox.


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## sideways (Jun 2, 2008)

Its only a muck guard, bin it,


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