# Lost in electric!



## iveco-jay (Nov 27, 2012)

hi Guys im new to the site and forums, I have a couple of questions I hope you may be able to help with. Ill give a little background info first.

I have started to convert my ex Royal Mail van into a camper. Iv only just completed 90% of the bathroom so far. Im technically minded and have done a full wiring on a catering trailer so im not scared of jumping in but id like not to have to undo work and redo it. I will list all my wants electrically wise and hope you could avise me of the best way.

Fridge
microwave
waterpump(s)
Lights (dc)
1 x 240v socket
4 x 12v DC sockets (aprox)
Air conditioning (110v AC)(ex RV unit on the roof)

I want to be able to charge via
Solar
240v AV
Van Engine

2 or 3 battries


I was thinking when engine is on use split charger to charge battries (and power items in the back?)

Engine off plugged into 240v Charge battries and power items

Engine off Solar charge battries and (limited items in the back)


Im geting lost with what chargers and inverters are out there and how to tie in solar so evrything works happy. Im not loaded so second hand units if costly may be what im going to have to get but would change for newas and when I can.


this is what I think I need.

Split charger
Solar array + some kind of charger
Inverter for the Aircon and 240v outlet socket
2or3 battries
AV inverter charger?

Im just confused as to what to get Im comfortable in instaling etc except Im worried about wiring the solar up to everything without damaging the solar charger or array.

Many thanks Jay


----------



## joedenise (Jul 20, 2007)

if you can run the fridge on gas when static

joe


----------



## iveco-jay (Nov 27, 2012)

joedenise said:


> if you can run the fridge on gas when static
> 
> joe


Yes I should of mentioned that ill be doing maily wild camping and the other electrical thing would be a small tv and laptop. Im getting a 80 -100ltr lpg tank for the hot water and heating and of corse the fridge.


----------



## Drew (May 30, 2005)

Hi Jay,

If as you say you have very little knowledge of electrical wiring, might I suggest that you leave well alone.

I'm sorry if I might have offended you but it is for your own safety.

Drew


----------



## iveco-jay (Nov 27, 2012)

Drew said:


> Hi Jay,
> 
> If as you say you have very little knowledge of electrical wiring, might I suggest that you leave well alone.
> 
> ...


I didnt say that. I do have experience, Im not sure on whats the best way to go as in chargers controllers invertes etc.


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

I think you need to sort out a few things along the lines of:

"Essential" 

then 

"Non-Essential" 

then 

"Wish-List"

For example: cooker/fridge/water heater are all essentials.

Aircon is Non-Essential (In my view)

100 litres of hot water is going to take a LOT of electrical power or gas, most water boilers such as the Cascade 2GE are 9 litres and take about 20 minutes to heat up on gas, slightly less if it is warm outside, slightly less still if you have the electric heating element on.

Fridge and cooking and water heating by gas, rest of it by electric, but you'll need 200W approx of solar panels, a decent controller and about 200AH worth of batteries.

Inverters and hairdryers are non-essential, TV's are 12V, lighting 12V, water pump 12V.

Do what we did, buy a damaged caravan and strip all of the expensive bits out to fit into your van shell.

Good luck!

Peter


----------



## iveco-jay (Nov 27, 2012)

listerdiesel said:


> I think you need to sort out a few things along the lines of:
> 
> "Essential"
> 
> ...


Thanks Peter, Its 100liter LPG tank not water tank. thats a lot of water! lol, I have a carver cascade not instaled yet. Heating will be either diesel heater or LPG, Hot water is carver cascade. My main consumption will be the 12v TV and LED lights. Everything else will be gas. The Aircon was free so I installed it and would hardly be used not in the UK anyway (I would require the engine on for that to be used constant) But Was thinking about 200AH but wasnt sure thanks


----------



## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Sorry if I picked that up wrong on the water tank?

Solar panels are a bit of a mixed bag, you don't get out what you think you will, especially in the UK, and you MUST have a decent MPPT controller, I worked my way through a few, including home-built, there's a thread in the Solar Power sections.

Kevin is doing a self-build, you'll find his stuff interesting, look in the Self-Build section.

Autogas is the way to go, check that the tank is vapour outlet and not liquid outlet, guess you have looked at that already?

If you can, try and stay independent of electric if you can, it makes life a LOT easier and simpler.

TV's like the Avtex and satellite receivers like the Comag are 12V, consumption isn't too bad, LED lights are also low-consumption, but we use flourescents for now.

We get by with 160W of solar and 110AH of battery. 

Peter


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

I doubt that any system would be able to give all that power when you want it..... unless the engine is running - not ideal on a quiet night away from civilisation.......

The aircon is very heavy on power and could only run on EHU - an inverter would not run it for many minutes and would drain an immense current from the batteries. 

Solar panel works well in warmer climates but in the UK would not give enough for such things IMO, even if the roof was covered with panels and it was noon in full sun......

Inverters are designed to supply a maximum current - e.g. 150w for charging computers, but if you want a 3kw supply (or even more) then the drain on a battery bank would be massive e.g. a 10 amp supply would take a minimum of 200a from the battery - unless you have the correct diameter cables you have a fire risk as they overheat.

There are numerous articles on here that you can find by using the search facility or the guides, but you are trying to do something which even professionals would stay well clear of, so do get a professional to check EVERYTHING as otherwise the risks are massive of overheating or constantly blowing fuses due to power demands are very real.

Solar panels need proper protection - as do the batteries (and every component of a bank of batteries), failure to do that will result in frequent major problems - and probably no insurance cover either.

You may think I am being OTT but once you start trying to go from 12v to 240v the current jumps by a factor of 20 at least, and there are so many mixed requirements that it would be difficult to give precise, safe directions.

Dave


----------



## rosalan (Aug 24, 2009)

I like your ambition!
A couple of small thoughts... wire in an isolator switch for lights near the entrance.
Provide battery condition meters to know where you stand with available power.
Try not to invent the wheel by looking at many manufactured models where there have already been tens of years research and development to arrive a present optimum solution.
This is my second van with 120 litre inboard fresh water tank. This is good for Aires and wild camping.
Carry also a large waste tank and decide if you plan to do winter touring. I can vouch that when they freeze up it becomes a problem. You can lag it, fit it with a heater, fit it inboard (takes a lot of space).
Although you may not initially plan for a rear view camera, consider whether to have conduits capable of carrying the wiring. Fit several 240v sockets, they get used for all sorts of things. Fit USB sockets for phone charging etc. The latest vans now fit din sockets for 12v outputs as they are better than the old cigarette sockets.
Have fun!
Alan


----------



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

iveco-jay said:


> hi Guys im new to the site and forums, I have a couple of questions I hope you may be able to help with. Ill give a little background info first.
> 
> I have started to convert my ex Royal Mail van into a camper. Iv only just completed 90% of the bathroom so far. Im technically minded and have done a full wiring on a catering trailer so im not scared of jumping in but id like not to have to undo work and redo it. I will list all my wants electrically wise and hope you could avise me of the best way.
> 
> ...


Hi Jay and welcome to the site, you might get a lot of info from the self build forum on here and it's also worth joining www.sbmcc.co.uk too as the advice on there is second to none, I've learned a great deal from both sites.

Remember too there are no stupid question only stupid people who don't ask first.

Good luck.

Kev.


----------



## iveco-jay (Nov 27, 2012)

Thanks dave thats why Im here your good advice and your right Im going to start off with basics 12v system with EHU. then if and when Id like to add solar to trickle charge.

Cheers Alan, I do need a rear camera as the back of the van is 4.5 meters away from the drivers seat + another 3 feet then a tungston bumper. Iv already replaced the side mirrors for ones of a 2010 model which is a huge help.Also done the rear parking sensors, Fitted a quality alarm with pager and remote start which is great for cold mornings. Iv not decided where to put my water tanks yet I have lots of space under the van. I can get my alarm to sense the temperature and start the van for a set time while its running I could use a high power heating element to defrost the tanks if under body.

On another note the AC came of a GMC motorhome which ran 2 A/con units while the engine was on no problem. Not sure what it was wired into though. Im in 2 minds if I should remove the a/con and weld a patch over the hole in the roof.


----------



## Penquin (Oct 15, 2007)

iveco-jay said:


> I can get my alarm to sense the temperature and start the van for a set time while its running I could use a high power heating element to defrost the tanks if under body.


That is an innovative idea, just make sure that it is always parked outside as if it started up in a closed "garage" or barn it could build up a lethal concentration of toxic fumes.

Dave


----------

