# Can't get my Motorhome doors to lock.



## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I can't get the doors to stay locked on our Laika, with the remote even with the key.

I can only lock one door at a time, I'm not sure what security I have but think it's the standard for Laika, it's a Laika remote fob.

Any ideas, I have made sure all the windows and doors are fully closed, when I press the fob, the doors lock, then unlock again.

I can't think of anything else to do.

Kev


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

One of them isn't properly closed perhaps??

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

As I said they are all properly shut, checked twice to be sure.

Kev.


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## gm6vxb (Nov 3, 2007)

Did have a similar problem on a Citroen.
After much fiddling about it turned out to be adjustment. Took lots of messing about to sort it.
Problem is which door is the problem.
Have a cursary look at the lock mechanisms and if there is nothing obviously wrong would suggest you try a good garage. Trying to sort it can take a lot of time and a lot of hair pulling.
Sorry I cannot be more helpful but the locking mechanisms are a real pain.


Martin.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

If it's any help, the Hab door wasn't closing fully, and allowing thw wind to whistle through the gap, so I adjusted the frame peg a little further into the opening, but it didn't make any difference becasue the rubber seals wouldn't allow the door to go in any further, but when the door is fully closed you can still push it into the opening about 1/4" or 6-7mm.

I've just been out to see if I could get it to stay locked by any other means.

If I open the hab door, and trip the lock into the shut position, with a screwdriver, then I can lock the doors by any means IE with any of door locks, even the hab door, or with the fob, but as soon as I shut the hab door (even by slamming) it won't stay locked.

Puzzled doesn't even describe my mind at the moment, I'm very mechanically minded but this just has me foxed.


Any and all suggestion no matter how daft you may think them, very gratefully received.

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

If no one can help with the central locking issue, can anyone tell me how to disable it so I can at least secure it overnight, I assume there will be a fuse I can pull.

It's a Laika Ecovip 7RG 2001 on a Fiat 2.8 chassis.

Kev.


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## CatSailor (Sep 17, 2008)

If the central locking locks then unlocks when you press the fob then there is definitely something not closing properly. My Merc does exactly the same thing if one of the doors/boot is not properly closed.

You say that if you trip the lock on the hab door then everything locks OK so there is your clue. Something is not engaging right home and the system 'thinks' that a door is not properly closed.

You adjusted the hab door.... have you re-adjusted back to where it was?

Adrian


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Yes everything is back exactly as befor, I marked it before moving it so I knew how far it needed to go.

Well miffed.

Just trying to contact Laika in Italy, watch this space.

Kev.


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## karlb (Feb 22, 2009)

Kev_Behr said:


> If it's any help, the Hab door wasn't closing fully, and allowing thw wind to whistle through the gap, so I adjusted the frame peg a little further into the opening, but it didn't make any difference becasue the rubber seals wouldn't allow the door to go in any further, but when the door is fully closed you can still push it into the opening about 1/4" or 6-7mm.
> 
> I've just been out to see if I could get it to stay locked by any other means.
> 
> ...


i would say your hab door lock is not making the circuit when closed,your proof of this is that when you force it with the screwdriver everything works.


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

karlb said:


> i would say your hab door lock is not making the circuit when closed,your proof of this is that when you force it with the screwdriver everything works.


Hi Kev,

I would agree with Karlb. It sounds as though the latch on the hab door is not locating properly on the frame catch, ie, not enough for the central locking to fully engage. Have you adjusted the catch on the door frame? If not, you may need to.

Jock.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Have you given the electrical contacts on the Hab door a bit of a scrub?

I'm still convinced I was right first time (as are several others I see) but it could just be a bit of muck or corrosion on the contacts.

There are three on my van and they needed cleaning only the other day - after the winter presumably. If the "wrong" one of those is not making contact, the central locking circuit will "think" the door is not closed properly.

Dave


P.S. Am looking for a soft and tasty titfer . . . just in case. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

No need to force it, if you put anything even the ignition key into the lock to make the lock go into the closed position, it all works fine, as for adjustment, that's how this all started, I've put everything back as it was now.

As for this forcing thing it's difficult to explain, but if you go to your car door, and look at the striker plate on the door jam, most are about the same size as a phillips screwdriver, if you then place that next to the lock on the door, and *gently* push it in, as if it was the striker plate doing it,, then it should move the lock into the locked position, *(don't forget to open it with the door handle before trying to close) * you will see no force of any kind is needed.

I don't know which is the bigger pain at the moment, the problem or trying to find the worms to explain it


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Sorry to disappoint you Dave, but there are no electrical contacts on the outside of the door, and anyway (I do follow your thinking, but no prize) if there were any contacts it wouldn't work at all, especially with the door wide open.



> P.S. Am looking for a soft and tasty titfer . . . just in case.


Err what's that all about geezer?


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Titfer = tit fer tat = hat. (For eating if I was wrong.) :lol: :lol: :lol: 

I understand exactly what you mean by the latching mechanism, and can only think Karlb and Jock are correct.

I guess you have tried giving the door a bl**dy good slam, after adjusting the latching pin on the door as far as it will go.

After this I'm stumped, and shall be fascinated to hear your final solution. :? :? :wink: 

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Update.

the lock striker is back exactly as it was yesterday, bang on the marks I made with a needle, (more exact) I've made sure everything is tight, double checked to make sure there are no external contacts, (internal cable and wobbling/shaking it makes no difference) the door is going into the opening as far as it can possibly go, bearing in mind I think it's not far enough, as there is a draught blowing through it, (but if I get the locks to work again I'll suffer it), I don't think there is anything left to do.

But, go on surprise me.

Kev.

PS Yeah, dave gave it bl00dy good slam, half the problem is, these doors are very well made, better than Hymers, about 5" thick, with proper car door type locks. :evil:


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## dikyenfo (Feb 16, 2008)

This is the sort of thing I dread happenning to me and although fairly qualified these things need more effort than anyone thinks to put them right. Is there any way to check to see if the voltages are right and if they change when you use the key. Also snagging of mechanical parts if often not obvious or any looseness that may be difficult to spot first time but there must be a si mple answer. We are all hoping you come up with a definitive solution so we can sort ours out when the problem hits us - these things are seldom one-off.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

OK surprise coming!! 8O 8O 

If it's easy to remove the rubber trim without damaging it - and more importantly, if it's easy to replace it . . . pull it off and try the door again.

Then it almost certainly will close fully, and you will at least be sure of the cause, and can then devise ways of fixing it.

Have to go in a minute, but will catch up later.  

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Cmon Dave spill



> P.S. Am looking for a soft and tasty titfer . . . just in case.


What does it mean?

Kev.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

You must have missed this post Kev

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopicp-590865.html#590865

It means I was looking for a nice tasty hat in case I had to eat it!!

Dave

Bye for now - must go or Mrs Zeb will skin me!! 8O 8O :wink:


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Kev,

Have you tried applying body weight/pressure to the door, in the area of the lock, when it is closed, then operating the central locking?.

I know you said that everything is as it was before, but does the strike plate on the door line up perfectly, with the striker on the frame?
I have had the same problem on cars, and it turned out to be misalignment, albeit only very slightly.

Where is the gap in relation to the "door closed" position? That might give us a clue.

Jock.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Hi Jock,

When our lass came home at lunch time, leaning against the door was her first suggestion, and it made no difference. 

The striker plate is in line horizontally and vertically, ( I even lined it up with a laser level to be sure) as I thought it might be that but being able to do it with the door open negates that one.



> the gap in relation to the "door closed" position


The gap is around the perimeter of the door, but mainly on the handle side, less at the hinge, which is why I wanted to adjust the bu66er in the first place.

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

> If it's easy to remove the rubber trim without damaging it - and more importantly, if it's easy to replace it . . . pull it off and try the door again.
> 
> Then it almost certainly will close fully, and you will at least be sure of the cause, and can then devise ways of fixing it.


It's not a closing problem Dave, as the door is only touching at one side (hinge side) with any force, the lock side is where most of the draught comes from, hence the the adjustment attempt.

The rubber is easy to remove though, so I'll give it go tomorrow, I'm getting *the look* right now, she probably thinks I'm playing here.

I hope we cure the problem before we go away at easter, or I'll get more of *the look*

Kev.


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Kev_Behr said:


> > I'm getting *the look* right now, she probably thinks I'm playing here.
> >
> > Kev.
> 
> ...


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## NormanB (Sep 8, 2005)

*Laika Locks*

Hi Kev,

I have the same problem with our Laika Kreos. (I also tried to adjust the door to stop the wind whistling in but afterwards, didn't get the problem you report.)

However, I do get the problem (electronic key triggers locking and then it unlocks again immediately) if any of the doors don't quite shut properly. When the Taylor Made screens go on, sometimes I get the problem - I believe because the thickness of the insulation is preventing one of the cab doors shutting fully.

You might also check that the outside lockers are fully closed - on mine, they play a part in the vehicle security system.

Please let me know how you get on - I would like to resolve my locking problems too!


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Laika just replied to my email, I sent them the link to this thread but they say it won't open, so i've cut and pasted the relevant bit's and fired it off to them, Shame they couldn't open the link though.

One for Nuke maybe.

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I thought I should give you an update as a few were interested in the outcome of this one.

Laika and I are still struggling, well they are, I'm just waiting for them to tell me how to mend it, they are also looking into my Smev cool box and the Dometic/Electrolux oven, several emails have passed both ways with attached photo's of various bits, with some suggestions, but nothing has worked so far, and they have even sent me a wiring diagram in case I have to disconnect the Central locking from the Hab door, but I await a better solution, to be fair to Laika, they are giving me a level of support I would only expect on a new MH,  so bear that in mind at your MH renewal time.

Kev.


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## Zebedee (Oct 3, 2007)

Kev_Behr said:


> I thought I should give you an update as a few were interested in the outcome of this one.
> 
> Laika and I are still struggling, well they are, I'm just waiting for them to tell me how to mend it, they are also looking into my Smev cool box and the Dometic/Electrolux oven, several emails have passed both ways with attached photo's of various bits, with some suggestions, but nothing has worked so far, and they have even sent me a wiring diagram in case I have to disconnect the Central locking from the Hab door, but I await a better solution, to be fair to Laika, they are giving me a level of support I would only expect on a new MH,  so bear that in mind at your MH renewal time.
> 
> Kev.


Why not give them a nice write-up in Company Reports the Kev?   

Dave


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I probably will Dave when it's all sorted.



Kev.


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## Carl_n_Flo (May 10, 2005)

OK - I will throw this in the ring and see what happens......

Does the c/locking work on the key?

If so - could there be a fault in the fob?? sticky contact?

I know - a load of b**ls - just a thought??
carl


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Not at all Carl, there have been a few suggestions, none worked so far though, I've tried the keys both fobs, even the master key, but no joy, I just fence it in at night now, it's more secure then if it was locked up 

Kev


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## JockandRita (Jun 1, 2005)

Kev_Behr said:


> Not at all Carl, there have been a few suggestions, none worked so far though, I've tried the keys both fobs, even the master key, but no joy, I just fence it in at night now, it's more secure then if it was locked up
> 
> Kev


Hi Kev,

If the central locking works okay when you operate the latch on the lock plate of the habitation door with a Phillips screwdriver, whilst it is open, then it cannot be the central locking at fault. However, when you close the habitation door, the central locking malfunctions. 
This points to the connection made between the habitation door and the door frame, or more likely, between the lock plate and the lock catch. I cannot get away from the strong possibility, that we are looking at misalignment.

Are the hinges screwed to the frame? If so, it could mean realignment on the hinge side, rather than on the latch side.

Sorry Kev, but this one has really got my attention. :?

Jock.


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## loughrigg (Nov 10, 2008)

Hi Kev

I had a similar issue on the cab doors (Boxer) of my Autocruise. This was back before I had a replate and was really struggling to get below the plated weight for the rear axle.

In short, it looked like I could carry a 25 litre water container on the step inside the passenger door. It was OK at first, but then the doors started to lock/unlock as you have described - with the container removed, the doors locked normally. Although the doors were fully closed, the resistance from the container must have been influencing the alignment just enough to confuse the locking mechanism.

Not a very technical answer, I'm afraid, but the symptoms sounded familiar.

Hope you get it sorted.

Mike


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## teamsaga (Feb 26, 2006)

Hi Kev
when you test the lock with the door open I presume the lock moves to the second closing position. If you gently push the door closed can you feel the first and second positions engage. sometimes if a door has been slammed to often the striker pin can be pushed back, leaving the lock on the first catch. If you cant feel the lock click into the second position, try moving the pin outwards until it does.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

NormanB said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> I have the same problem with our Laika Kreos. (I also tried to adjust the door to stop the wind whistling in but afterwards, didn't get the problem you report.)
> 
> ...


Hi Norman,

Sorry my pockets are smaller than yours I can't afford screens, and I don't have any lockers either, now get on with fitting that solar gear, there'll be an inspection later

Kev.



JockandRita said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> If the central locking works okay when you operate the latch on the lock plate of the habitation door with a Phillips screwdriver, whilst it is open, then it cannot be the central locking at fault. However, when you close the habitation door, the central locking malfunctions.
> This points to the connection made between the habitation door and the door frame, or more likely, between the lock plate and the lock catch. I cannot get away from the strong possibility, that we are looking at misalignment.
> ...


Hi Jock,

I have checked the alignment, even the locking plate on the door frame, is absolutely spot on level and vertical, so it's not an alignment problem.



loughrigg said:


> Hi Kev
> 
> I had a similar issue on the cab doors (Boxer) of my Autocruise. This was back before I had a replate and was really struggling to get below the plated weight for the rear axle.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, I don't think it can be a the same problem, all that's in the door way is the Laiks bin on the door itself, but it ways very little and we don't use it anyway, so it's always empty, and we don't stack anything in front of the hab door, as it's an emergency exit at night.



teamsaga said:


> Hi Kev
> when you test the lock with the door open I presume the lock moves to the second closing position. If you gently push the door closed can you feel the first and second positions engage. sometimes if a door has been slammed to often the striker pin can be pushed back, leaving the lock on the first catch. If you cant feel the lock click into the second position, try moving the pin outwards until it does.


Hi teamsaga,

Now this seems like it might be a possibility, I don't have time now to look, but it could be similar to what Jock was saying, not exactly an alignment problem as such but he said it differently, and I didn't quite make the connection (sorry Jock). I did move the striker pin further into the door jam to make it close more, and that's when my problem started as already explained, but I also put it back to its original position as I'd marked it with a needle to see how far I had adjusted it, and I put it back to its exact marks.

I must confess it's starting to get on my thruppenybits.

Kev


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## karlb (Feb 22, 2009)

so what was the cure?


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I messed around with the door alignment for ages, and whether that fixed it or if a cable moved or whatever it works now, not been a problem since, but the door closes better than it ever has, so don't think it was moving the lock plate.

Laika were brilliant with info on the problem.

Kev.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

PDF attached just in case it benefits anyone


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