# Anybody taken a fridge out of an A Class 2002ish



## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

To help solve the problem of the fridge not wanting to run on gas, I've ordered a new thermocouple and have started to take the fridge out.
If there are any words of wisdom out there I love to hear them.

Hoping with thanks in advance.


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## CurlyBoy (Jan 13, 2008)

*fridge*

Hi, I am not an expert, but, do you have to remove the fridge. I recall having to replace the thermocouple while away in Scotland a few years ago, didn't need to remove the fridge though.
curlyboy


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## ramos (Nov 1, 2008)

Hi .well I don't have words of wisdom for you. I had ocaision to take fridge out of my autotrail.What a palava that was.after releasing it and disconnecting gas pipes and electrics I thought yes !. But wow it wouldn't come through the gap from kitchen to dining area to get it through outside door. We ended up taking trim off and anything off the fridge we could eventually 2 of us lifted it up and over. So I hope you have an easier job than me


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## JohnsCrossMotorHomes (Jul 21, 2007)

Not knowing the fridge, but if you can see the pilot light, there should be no need to remove entire fridge, the thermo couple sits in the pilot light flame.

Peter


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

What make/ model fridge is you have ? . . .
I've some pic's of the thermo & spark unit relating to our Electrolux model RMS5405] if it will help you :-


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Thanks for the responses so far.
It's an Electrolux RM 6271.

I have cleaned and examined the burner assembly. It sparks & lights but goes out after the knob is released.
I thought I needed to remove the fridge since the non burner end of the thermocouple disappears I guess to the gas control valve somewhere out of sight.

So far I have removed four screws from the fridge interior that screw into the adjacent woodwork but there seems to be other fixings that are holding it, any ideas?


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## geordie01 (Apr 20, 2006)

if you remove the screws holding the fridge in and disconnect the flue from the top outside vent remove the bottom vent you should be able to slide the fridge forward. you should see the gas valve on top of the fridge with the thermocouple connected to the back.. if you disconect the hot nd at the burner and the coolend at the valve you will bee able to feed nw t couple into place without removing the whole fridge from vehicle.


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

So far so good.

With thanks to those above, the fridge is slid out sufficiently to have access to both ends of the thermocouple. I removed two screws each side from the interior, the gas feed and repositioned some cables that were restricting the forward movement.
I now await the delivery of the new thermocouple.


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## teal (Feb 23, 2009)

Having just renewed my thermo coupler this is what i had to do.
After turning gas off and removing screw either side inside the fridge 
Pull fridge forward so exposing the thermcoupler by the control panel
take out with care old fitting and uncoil new one and fit that making sure it is tight
From the back and if you are able to take off the vents dismantle the burner cover and expose the burner assy.
Pull the new coupler from the front into same position as old one after taking out old one
undo old coupler and place new one in same position ie tip over flame.
There should have been no cause to disconnect gas supply doing it this way.
Before putting back fridge test the cou pler joint on top to make sure it is gas tight (fairy liquid diluted a bit) rinse off aferwards with clean water 
If all is well replace and good luck.
Ihave seen "pattern ones in dealers and if you have one of these make sure it is a firm fit as they use universal nuts with slots in them and these can make a sloppy fit sometimes.


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## teal (Feb 23, 2009)

Of course your problem might not be the thermo, it could be the selector switch price about £36.63, this is the one which you select gas battery mains . This going does fool some people who think it is the thermo. I take it that all parts are clean down by the burner.


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Teal,

Sadly there was a hard pipe gas connection at the back so that had to be undone to allow forward movement of the fridge. 
I have read that given the symptoms the thermocouple was the place to start. If this does not work I would have suspected the gas control valve, not the gas/12v/240v selector switch. If the gas lights with the button pushed in can you explain the possible fault on the selector switch for me.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Geoff.


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## bendog (Apr 15, 2008)

*Hymer fridge problem*

I have just had the same problem , thougt it was the thermo . fitted anew one still not much better . Found it to be a partialy blocked burner due to higher oil content of autogas cleaned and adjusted now ok .


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## teal (Feb 23, 2009)

Ref' gas selector switch,whilst when you push in the button to feed gas to the burner the thermo coupling heats up to send a small current to the valve which from a further "signal comes from the seletor switch which goes back to the "valve". If the connector for gas has gone faulty this will give you no signal back to the valve so whilst you have the burner alight when holding in the button the signal for the valve to open is not received by the selector switch.If you open up the selector switch cover you will see several terminals of which the two wires going back to the valve are the gas sinal ones.I hope this makes sense to you , but on further thoughts even the gas valve sometimes goes faulty, thats the one inside with a spring on it and the thermo makes cotact with that plus if the thermo coupling nut is not tight into that assy it will also give simular symptoms.


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## geordie01 (Apr 20, 2006)

have alook at my previous posts on this matter.


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Thanks Geordie,

Just read your previous posts, very useful info.

Geoff


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## Borisd0 (Jan 3, 2006)

Eureka!

The fridge works with the new thermocouple.

With hindsight I should have read earlier geordie's post re the two black wires going to the gas selector switch. I checked that these wires are shorted together by the switch in the gas position, otherwise it may have been a selector switch fault.
In my installation there are a lot of electrical wires on both sides of the fridge that snagged and initially prevented the fridge sliding forward and then I trapped one wire on the move back. 
All smiling now.
Thanks all round.

Geoff


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