# Leaking Window Frame



## MrGaz (Nov 8, 2009)

I have just discovered a leaking window frame on my van and on investigation I have discovered that all the inner window frames screws are loose...
Looking at the Dometic window frames from the inside the loose screws have allowed water to get in between the outer window seal an wall of the van...
I could tighten all the the screws by about 1 ½ turns but how tight should they be...as tight as possible OR comfortably tight...what do you guys think?


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## Pat-H (Oct 30, 2009)

Well they used to say tighten until it starts to strip and then back off a bit.
It's hard without resorting to torque values to describe the right amount of "tightness" but I'd make sure they are reasonably tight.


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## vicdicdoc (May 14, 2005)

could it be worth putting a thin line of clear sealant around before tightening screws up ?


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## premiermotorhomes (Feb 13, 2008)

Good evening MrGaz,

The following link may be useful to you; http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/repair_s5-window.pdf

It would be very worthwhile for you to consider complete removal, clean up of surfaces and reinstallation to minimise future issues with water ingress.

Regards
Chris


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## ubuntu1 (Jan 14, 2008)

*window*

You need to get to the bottom of why the screws are loose and why damp has got in. If you just tighten the screws then you will not solve the cause only the symtom.

The window needs to come out and have new seal fitted.


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I doubt very much that it would need a new seal as they don't seem to do much anyway, and they're not cheap, however removal and a clean up with new NON setting mastic will help.

As for how tight the screws need to be, it's very much a feel thing, they need to be tight, but stop turning when you feel you have to exert a lot of pressure on the screws, you're only screwing into a plastic foam material so not too much torque or you'll need a new outer frame.


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## rotorywing (Jul 19, 2010)

A few months ago I tried to get a new seal from Leisure direct, not much luck ....never ending wait list for the external seal. I had to resort to http://www.force4.co.uk/1337/Sikaflex-291-White-300ml-Cartridge.html to seal the external side

Martin


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## premiermotorhomes (Feb 13, 2008)

I agree with Kev_N_Liz that its very unlikely you will require a replacement seal, it wouldn't do any harm to change it as a matter of course if you felt this was necessary or noted any deterioration in the existing seal. I don't think we've ever had or rarely had a requirement to order in a replacement seal when we have been tasked with the removal and resealing of a window. It's very important to ensure you select the correct sealant for the application.

Regards,
Chris


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## premiermotorhomes (Feb 13, 2008)

rotorywing said:


> A few months ago I tried to get a new seal from Leisure direct, not much luck ....never ending wait list for the external seal. I had to resort to http://www.force4.co.uk/1337/Sikaflex-291-White-300ml-Cartridge.html to seal the external side
> 
> Martin


Seitz can be very hard to get parts from with long lead times for orders.

Regards,
Chris


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

I didn't bother with the frame to body seal on one window (used) as the mastic makes it superfluous anyway as it's 8-10mm and the seal is only about 2mm, I think it's only there for some applications where you don't use any mastic.

I needed a Sietz window to frame seal and no one had any until I rang Dometic who rang them and suddenly one appeared same for some Smev hob hold down clamps, part of the problem is Dometic, when they bring out t anew product, even when they use parts from a previous model they give the parts a new number, so while some suppliers might have the very same part unless you can speak to someone who's been there a while they just say they don't keep it anymore, but they do just under the latest part number.

Pain it the 4rse until you realise it, they also have some weird part names.


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## MrGaz (Nov 8, 2009)

Thanks guys for all your advice and as per the Dometic instructions attached by 'premiermotorhomes'...
'From inside, the exterior and interior frames are screwed together with each other, where it is to be ensured that the screws are not tightened too much (max. tightening torque 3 Nm).'
I have nipped up the inner window surround screws which I think have not been tightened properly for new...no more leaks
I think it always pays to respond quickly to anything quickly which doesn't look right...and yes a small puddle of water on the inner frame ledge isn't right but all sorted now without any major drama...G


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## bromleyxphil (May 4, 2010)

Hi 
Same thing happened in my apache. I eased the top of the window out and could see the where the seal was missing (naughty Autotrail). Re sealed with IDL sealant (reccomended by AT) then re fitted and cleaned up easily with white spirit. Job done 
Phil


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## listerdiesel (Aug 3, 2012)

Sikaflex221 is hard to beat where something needs to be sealed and doesn't need to come out in a hurry, but remember that it goes quite hard although staying flexible, so to get anything out again you'll have to cut the seal through with a scalpel or Stanley knife.

Mastic causes more grief in this industry than almost anything else, never use the stuff.

Peter


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## rotorywing (Jul 19, 2010)

I've been double checking the window installed in the kitchen area in my Chausson, I had previously had a leak which I sealed on the outside with Silkaflex, due to the lack of external seals being available. 

When I remove the white caps the internal securing screws have signs of corrosion on the heads, probably due to steam etc getting into the blind and housing etc. 

Hoping that Leisure direct will be able to supply or a marine chandlery.
I believe the part number is 149040..........here's hoping.

Window is a Seitz AGS50800x0450

Martin


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

Is that the part number for the screws Martin? if so I wouldn't bother, just try to get pan head screws with a width of 3.9mm (7s) stainless if possible from your local nut/bolt factors, I used dry wall screws as they have a coarser thread.


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## rotorywing (Jul 19, 2010)

Wicked idea, The caps are stiil reusable so I'll have to drop along to the ships chandlers as they have a good collection of stainless


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## Pudsey_Bear (Sep 25, 2008)

rotorywing said:


> Wicked idea, The caps are stiil reusable so I'll have to drop along to the ships chandlers as they have a good collection of stainless


If you have one of those digital verier micrometers, take it with you, as the thread width is a bit critical, 3.9mm is the max according to the Dometic technical peeps.

Screws size 6 is too small 8 is too big and 7 (the one you need) is hard to find, but drywall screws are mostly 3.9mm -4.00mm I'm not concerned about a bit of rust as it's out of site and easy to replace if it start to stain the plastic.


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## rotorywing (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks Kev, 
I have a digi vernier so I'll do a quick test, never know, I might have the wrong screws installed in the first place!!, the heads on the bottom screws are in a poor state I shall try the local boat shop in Cardiff for stainless otherwise it will be drywall ones. 

The problem comes from steam whilst cooking, it rises up into the window frame and settles in all the nooks and crannies. We do open the window and roof vent, but the screws would attract it. 

Many thanks 

martin


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