Habitation door lock

Hi, had the same problem on my 2011 Apache. Dealer said there was no problem but it would not throw up the same fault when they had it in for checking. Cleaned the small electrical contacts on the door and the door frame and it seemed ok for a while then it stopped working altogether.

Took out the contacts on the door frame and one of the wire connectors had broken. Never seen such a Heath Robinson set up. Got a new connector from maplins and has worked fine ever since.

The contact block in the door frame is a awful design and is not made for constance use in my opinion. If it does go again I will look at seeing if there is a alternative part available.

Hopes this helps.

Nidge

 

Have look at the contacts on the edge of the door and the corresponding ones on the door frame. They probably need a bit of a clean with some sandpaper and a quick spray with WD-40.
Ours has the same problem.
Bill

 

Many thanks will try this week.

 

Morning Wavey,

Have had exactly the same problem as you and tried the cleaning contacts etc but to no avail. Then a couple of weeks ago just as I put the MH back into storage the remote stopped working altogether, not sure if the two defects are connected. The central locking worked perfectly well using the dashboard button but nothing from the key. So will be interested in what results you get when you revisit your problem.
Am picking the MH up next week to prepare it for its annual service and hab check so will discuss the matter then with Spinneys my agents and will surely let you know if they come up with a solution.
Cheers

Ian

 

It's a constant problem on most later Autotrails...
Always having to clean the contacts on mine and often fails again shortly afterwards. We no longer trust it and always use the key..
I have had work done on my 2012 van up at the Factory and mentioned it to them there.. Even saying why are they using steel contacts which are bound to rust.. All I got was a shrug and no offer to sort it..

Nidge1, Be interested in what replacement part you used and any pics if you have them.. This topic has just come up on the Autotrail group on Facebook, so a few people there looking for answers..

 

Thanks See what happens this week when I go to the storage compound.

 

My 2012 Delaware has had the same problem almost from day one. Each time the dealer looks at it it works perfectly.......Sod's law.
I think the main problem with ours is that the door is a very tight fit and the solenoid (or whatever operates the lock) is not powerful enough to overcome the resistance. I have now found that if I push hard on the door is I operate the key lock it works most times. Alternative is to give the door a good hard slam but that is not always conducive to good relations with your close neighbours on a busy aire, particularly at night.

Richard.

 

Richard

Have you tried adjusting the catch mechanism on the door frame?/ Its a simple enough job and could save you a bit of "slamming"

I ALWAYS check that the doors are all locked before walking away, Mrs Plodd reckons I am paranoid.

I'm not, I simply KNOW (dont ask me how I JUST KNOW alright??) that everyone out there is planning on stealing all of my wordly posessions so I take all reasonabl precautions, other than

!. Fitting a tracker
2. Fitting window alarms
3. Fitting extra high security door locks.
4. Getting a huge nasty dog (NO comments about Mrs P please :roll: )
5. Paying a security guard
6. Not going away in case I fall victim to a thief.

 

Thanks for the advice MrP.

I don't have the right tool to adjust the door catches in my arsenal of kit so it will have to wait until we get back home.
We are off across the water first thing in the morning to the land of cheap wine and decent croissants.
I have cleaned the contacts up though and it seems much improved.
Like you I will just have to keep checking every time we leave the 'truck'.

Richard.

 

Just had a new door and frame fitted on our 2013 Mohawk by dealer under warranty and found door not locking with fob (we were touring and I'd never thought to check which caused us both concern) After some investigation I found evidence of rubbing on the upper latching pin, adjusted the door and it immediately cured the problem. It did take a bit of experimenting to get the adjustment right, I suggest you buy a torx set (cheap in most dig shops) and have a go.

 

only just seen this thread
after months of trying everything under the sun to sort this problem out i have finally sorted it
strip the door and remove the handle, there is a grey plastic cap on the back of the key barrel held on with a pozzy screw. This cap must be really free to move, it wont be because they are made to tight to start with and when the grease dries up a bit thats when the problems start.
Remove the grey cap and use some emery cloth to get a good clearence between the grey cap and the black plastic insert on the end of the barrel, re apply some good grease, put a small flat washer between the grey and black caps to space them apart and tighten the screw back up, the grey pastic cap should now be free to move with ease, assemble door ...........job done

sounds abit confusing but its not, if you need any advise give me a bell

regards ian

 

Nidge1, Be interested in what replacement part you used and any pics if you have them.. This topic has just come up on the Autotrail group on Facebook, so a few people there looking for answers..[/quote]

Hi Tonka,
I probably could have worded my reply a bit better! I didn't actually replace the connector block with the pins in. When I removed the block from the door frame one of the very small and flimsy spade terminal connectors had snapped and the wire was just hanging. so it was just a matter of replacing the male spade connector.

As I said it is a proper Heath Robinson set up. The 2 wires which feed the block and make the electrical connection seem to be just hanging there on a sort of spring system and look like a recipe for a disaster. It's not a big job to remove the block with the pins in and once removed you will see what I mean. Sorry I do not have any pics.

Nidge

 

cntact renew

hello
our 2008 840d has a wire connection to the door enclosed in a rubber flex protector, no problem so far, i remeber having a LDV with these sping loaded plunger contacts ,i found a spray called "contact renew" a little like WD but with etching solution to clean the surface residue.RS componants have or had this airosol.

 

Cleaning these contacts (of which, until reading these posts, I was unaware) resolved the problem for me. They’re located about 15” (~40cm) from the bottom of the door & frame.

 

Excellent Gavin, glad the site was helpful.

Where are you planning to take your MH this year?

 

I hope Wavey found that was the solution in 2014 because he hasn´t been back since then to tell us .

 

Hi Gavin and welcome

Thanks for the update. Please do start a new thread introducing yourself and any travel plans you have for this year.