Can you confirm you have wires going into the door from the hinge side frame?

 

Hi again Mick.

The key would be the original Fiat key and that would have a button to unlock the front doors and another button to unlock the rear doors of what would have potentially been a van.

Some converters utilise this second button to operate the habitation door locking (presumably using the base vehicle wiring for the door locks) . Swift did on my Bolero but I don't know whether they did this on all models.

I suppose the first question would be, is there a rubber tube between the main body of the motorhome and the habitation door. On my Bolero this was a sort of corrugated rubber tube and it carried the wiring to the electrics for the habitation door lock.

I managed to google an image of a Sundance 630L and it didn't look as though there was a tube there, which would imply that perhaps Swift did not fit remote locking to the habitation door.

If there is a tube then perhaps there is a fault on it. I've no experience with central locking but perhaps someone else on the forum may be able to help with the fault finding, if it exists.

P.S. I was still typing when rayc posted

 

Thanks for the replies, there is a loom going into the door at the bottom and the key fob shows a picture of the MH cab with a lock on it. I guess I'll have to try and strip the door handle down to have a look...

 

Even after cleaning the contacts ours only works if we push against the door whilst operating the remote

 

Hi, so I have had a closer look at this problem today, I was hoping that it would be straight forward to re-connect the 2 broken wires that I can see in the loom but it isn't as easy as that. There are 2 broken wires that can be seen just poking out of the grommet in the bottom corner of the door. The problem is these wires are not long enough to be able to make a joint. I am not sure if these wires are actuall used in the circuit.
I've managed to get part of the door panel off to expose the remote central locking motor and can see where the wires go into the door but again these are tight and there appears to be no slack in the loom!

Does anyone know anything about the remote locking motor and wiring inside the door, I will try to put on some photos!!

 

I had to replace the central locking switch in my hymer door last year, lots available on e-bay. I would suggest testing the wires with a multimeter to make sure the wires are actually the ones that work the switch!

 

There has been a previous repair done on this wiring to the central locking motor, does anyone have a wiring diagram of the connections from the cab to the motor, I need to know how the remote works and which pins to test. I presume when the remote key is pressed it should put 12v onto one of the pins to activate the motor (solenoid).

 

If you google wiring diagram for central locking you will find a number of different options. Looking at your pictures it seems that your system uses 5 wires, so no spares in the loom? I have a Rapido which only uses 2 wires so there are a couple of spares. Your problem is quite common, so I think your best option is to go with Phil's suggestion of trying to piece out the existing wires. Can you run another wire/wires through the existing door tubing. Whatever you decide bear in mind that you will likely have the same problem in a couple of years time, seems to be a pretty poor design.

Have you looked on the SwiftTalk forum?

 

Could you not just piece out the wires like for like? That way you don't actually need to know what each one does, just that it's connected :wink2:

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys, if it was as easy as just joining wires I'd have done it this morning but there's no slack in the wires coming out of the door in the corner and the 2 wires that are broken are just inside of the door and won't pull out. I think I need to take the door panel off and run a new multi core cable from the motor to the loom coming out of the floor.

 

Sounds like a plan!! I was going to suggest using some 7 core trailer light wiring cable but I'm not sure how flexible that would be. Obviously the problem is the cable work hardening as the door is open and closed frequently. Perhaps some super flexible cable ??

 

The next challenge is stripping the door panel off....

 

No idea what door you have but if it's a Hartal the wires are buried withing the foam core of the door, it seems to me as though they lay the wiring in at the same time as the foam. There is no conduit as such for the wires and they are firmly trapped by the foam.
I've had to repair two of my vans with this problem, I used some wire that is sold for test instruments it is ultra flexible and has a thick rubber sheath on it.
Remove the grommet that is in the door and carefully cut away some of the foam to give access then strip back some of the insulation sufficient to make a soldered joint, solder a new link wire to it as an extension, slide some shrink wrap tube over the joint and heat shrink down, do this to as many of the wires as necessary, cut the new tails to suitable length and join to existing with whatever method you desire.
I think you will be on to a non winner to try and strip the wire completely.

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